/diy/ - Do It Yourself

dont PC PSU's only provide 5v at low voltage?

Im a PS3 man myself, but from what I gather, its caused by a fuse stretched accross the CPU? which sounds ridiculous, but then it is microsoft. Anyway, from what I hear, you need to re solder the CPU, using a heat gun, just by aiming it at it and remelting the solder, however there are more details for preventing damaging the cpu at the same time, and I suggest you google it. If you dont have it yet, clean the xbox of all dust, add extra cooling. Keep it cleaned, and make sure you add more cooling.

pykrete.

Wiki it.
Us britfags = genius'.

one last thing...
I did say it was mainly unreliable? The nitro cellulose one isnt, and the nitroglycerin one is... not accurate, only dangerous cos a tiny mistake = boom boom.

oh, gunpowder should be fine, the chemistry works out and loadsa people make it that way.

Byes

Bye guys, see you 13:00 GMT ish.

4chan wont let upload .txt's sorry :/

Oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
================================================================================
potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike-
sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches

ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for
and small amount of space shuttle
iron oxide

potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%

potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%

barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder

barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder

potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly
magnesium or unstable
aluminum dust 25%

potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable
calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive

potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable;
aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!

potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%
================================================================================

NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.

The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of
burning.

As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity
of the mixture.

oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
================================================================================
potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact
sensitive; unstable

potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning;
charcoal 15% unstable

potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely
magnesium or unstable!
aluminum dust 25%

potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable
aluminum dust 33%

sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable
sulfur 5% burn rate

potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before
ignition depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size

potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable

potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%

potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ?

potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is
sulfur 10% black powder!

potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot
or magnesium 40%

2.223 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES

There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be
produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective
and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working
fuel- oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:

Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by:

1. Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is
recycled.

2. Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water.

3. Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water.

If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution,
then rinsed in fresh water.

The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the nitration
will be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced.

There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is
useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not
explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed
to proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed.

CH OH CH ONO
| 2 | 2 2
| |
C-----O HNO C-----O
/H \ 3 /H \
-CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O-
\H H/ H SO \H H/
C-----C 2 4 C-----C
| | | |
OH OH ONO ONO
2 2

CELLULOSE CELLULOSE TRINITRATE

*End Addendum

>Warnings:
>
>All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When
>it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue - often painfully. It dissolves all
>manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning it bright yellow in
>the process. Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will
>happily blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply.
>Not for the novice.
>
> Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage. The decomposition is auto-
>catalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if the material is kept
>confined over time. The process is much faster if the material is not washed
>well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers such as diphenyl
>amine or ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH
>NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will capture the small
>amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They therefore
>inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any case.
>
>Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away
>with it. You may kill yourself and others if you try it.
>
> -Larry

Addendum 4/12/91... true experience From andrew at cmu.edu (internet)

> I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I
>didn't have oleum (H2SO4 with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At
>first I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which sold
>soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated,
>cheap and plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3
>and a little water (OK, I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so
>little water, what was added to what made little difference. It spattered
>concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could purchase the acids, I
>believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool
>or cotton cloth.
>
>Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disasterous with
>nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerine. For some reason, I tried washing
>the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in distilled
>water. I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?)
>When that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction. BTW, water
>quenched the runaway reaction of cellulose.
>
>The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned
>into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in alcohol/ether.

2.222 NITROCELLULOSE

Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It
also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following
procedure:


MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
????????? ?????????
cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers

concentrated funnel and filter paper
nitric acid
blue litmus paper
concentrated
sulfuric acid

distilled water

1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding
bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.

2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.

3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker,
and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.

4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.

5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too
hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.

6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never
store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate
static electricity.

2.221 BLACK POWDER

First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to
make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:

MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
????????? ?????????
potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder

or or

sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon

sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)

charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)

distilled water coffee pot or heat source

2.214 PICRATES

Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since
they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid
with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating
the water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or
produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of
a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is
impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator for any type of high
explosive.

) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration,
adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in
the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the
nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.

8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid-
water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.

9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it
into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less
likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine
with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if
necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.

10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean
container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far
away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine can
explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place.

1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.

2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about a
spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate
dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some
remains undissolved.

3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and
adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall
temperature.

4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker
will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow
into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a
large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of
the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less.


5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add
the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two
acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a
good idea to start another ice bath to do this.

6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one
drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the
mixed acids and glycerine meet.

DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF
THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!!

The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will
immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of
glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any
explosive in small quantities.

2.213 NITROGLYCERINE

Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the
most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to
make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by
the all- to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it
is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts
to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:

MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
???????? ?????????

distilled water eye-dropper

table salt 100 ml beaker

sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2)

concentrated nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well )

concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml)
blue litmus paper
glycerine

2.16 AMMONIUM NITRATE

Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a
commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite
with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is
touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation
will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high
explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitro-
glycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold-
Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist
of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium
nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag,
remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed,
airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb
water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers.

2.13 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER

One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is
the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are
composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a
fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube
length- wise, and unwrapping`it like a paper towel roll. When this is done,
the grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed.
This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is
exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on
the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a
plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This
should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be
crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from
1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the
more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per
package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in
stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized
for their explosive powder.

I downloaded it when I was about 13 a long time ago, straight Direct Download as only a txt file. Anyway, keep this alive within /diy/ (shouldnt be hard :P) and in 9 hrs will post more, especially requests

1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,
using the glass rod.

2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the
solution turns green and boils.

3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or
brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.

4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that
the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the
distilled water to the solution.

5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and
toxic.

6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are
neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the
wet crystals

7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from
any explosive or flammable material.

2.212 MERCURY FULMINATE


Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of
infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of the
fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably
use the following procedure:

MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
????????? ?????????

mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod

concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2)
acid (35 ml)
adjustable heat
ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source

distilled water blue litmus paper

funnel and filter paper

5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar
to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.

6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper,
and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that
they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could
well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about
eight chunks.

7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of
duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape
together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and
store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about
a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown
away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives
off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way
to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use
them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be
stepped on or crushed.