/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1231946
Mexican stereo will get the bubbles out what do you think they do in mexico?

>>244994
Den skal bruges til en elektrisk gokart.

The motor that is being renovated.

Active speakers, in the pic some work were still needed, added power connector and bass ports.

Going on right now:
Wooden/acrylic case for 600watt Class D amplifier. (pic relevant)

Restoring an old separately excited DC motor

Programming a motor controller in C, running on a PIC


Soon to do:
PWM motror controller for 48V+ and 250A

Electric gokart


Done:
3 class d amplifiers based on TAS5630
Stainless steal head spreaders for a gas grill
3" full range active speakers
a whole bunch of other stuff..

>>224666
FUCK OP!!! he is a faggot!!!

It was a fault from my side, type casting not needed.
just had to turn the "> and <" the right way..

I should to go to bed now!

I'm programming a PIC18F887

I'm doing som "math" functions, and i got worried that i might be doing something wrong.
i'm not sure if i'm supposed to typecast.

if(voltage_val < voltage_min_limit + 1.0)
{
limit_scale_voltage = (voltage_val - voltage_min_limit)*100.0;
> unsignet int8____= (___float__ - ___float _______)*100.0;

if(limit_scale_voltage>limit_scale)
> ___ unsigned int__ >__ unsigned int
{
limit_scale=limit_scale_voltage;
>unsigned int _=_ unsigned int
}


the limit_scale_voltage are supposed to return a unsigned int value from 100 to 0

like

if( 18.5 < 18.5 + 1.0)
{
50 = ( 18.5 - 18.0)*100.0;

if( 50 > 20)
{
limit_scale= 50 ;
}

I hope that it makes sense.

Bump...

no one with an answer?

>>223839
Hope that you eventually get hold of the A B C..

Happy high dude.

>>223827
Are you using google translate?..

the image is not my laptop, it is a picture of a router.

>>223761
>how r u gona connect the new card i dont c a pcix dlot

im not sure if i get your question right.
- but I'm going to remove the existing pcie wifi card and replace it with another one.

Hey /diy/

I'm looking to changing my internal wifi card,

I have a MSI GE620DX, with a 150mbit 2.4ghz wifi card.

I want to replace it with a dual band 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz 300mbit card.

i'm not sure that the current installed antennas is capable of dual band, and there is only two antennas, one of the wifi cards that i'm thinking about installing, requires 3 antennas.

the wifi cards that i want to use is:
Intel Centrino Ultimate-N 6300
Intel Centrino Advanced-N 6205

where can I find suitable antennas?

Image semi related, a 2.4ghz 300mbit router.

>Tip 11: don't solder inside of anything you care about. its hard to get solder off a mobo.
when you gained some experience, you will learn to use the correct amount of solder.

>Tip 12: don't be a faggot and super glue wires together. it wont work, and then when you solder it, it burns your eyes due to the glue.
what the fuck???

>Tip 13: soldering guns can melt pennies
again, wtf!!

>Tip 14: solder cools really quick, you can touch a solder connection just 5 seconds after it was applied.
depends on the amount use common sense.

>Tip 15: if all else fails, conductive paste.
NO!

Pro tip:
clean your iron in a moist cloth, (perfected a cleaning sponge for soldering).

when the iron is not in use, more than a minute leave some solder on the tip of the iron, this will prolong the lifetime of the tip. remember to clean the tip before use.

never melt plastic, it will ruin the tip, also smells really bad.

never let your iron on for a prolong period of time, if it isn't used.

use flux, it makes soldering a lot easier.

when finished soldering, leave solder on the tip.

when soldering smd, use flux and "tin-suction-wire" (don't know the English name)

Picture relevant:
a 64pin-QFP hand soldered with a big old weller iron with a flat tip.
the gray object is a 0.5milimeter lead for a pencil.

>Tip 1: get the surface to be soldered hot before soldering.
But do mind that the glue that sticks the copper to the fibreglass, it will come loose with to much heat.

Tip 3: dont solder over your leg, it will burn if you drop molten solder on it. and if you ignore it, the burn is much worse...
> solder over a flat glass surface, it is easy to clean and solder does not stick, I usually solder over 1cm of tempered glass that I had from an old table. Flux is easily removed with ethanol.

>Tip 5: always solder input/output audio live, then you will know if you got it when music plays.
- NEVER SOLDER live wires of any kind, it is doomed to go wrong one day.

>Tip 7: soldering stranded copper wire is a real bitch if you heat the wire too much.
apply a small amount of solder while heating, and when the solder "disappears" into the wire, apply more solder.

>Tip 8: use 60/40 tin/lead lead free sucks dick.
All lead free solder does not suck, but the cheap kinds really suck.
leaded solder is more easy to solder with, due to the fact is melts at a lower temperature.

>Tip 9: Its never too small. I've soldered smd before with my good old 230/150 soldering gun.
Mind the heat while soldering caps and semiconductors.

to be continued..

http://dk.rs-online.com/web/p/mosfet/5410604/

>>212579
Also EE student..

> 1amp fuses are more then enough for anything electronics wise.

Study harder my young padawan, and you'll see a world of electronics that requires a lot more than 1A to even start.

>>212905
EE student here

The circiut is a boost converter with some funny arrangement of feedback with diodes, the oscillator and driver is build with a logic inverter.

I would recommend a mosfet with the same RDSon or lower than the one installed.
but remember to look at the voltage rating, it must be same or higher.

the other important thing is the Total gate charge Qg

Vds 60V min

RDSon 0.2ohm MAX

Id 10A min

Qg 8.4nC max

It should be easy to find something similar or better.. do mind the Qg.

you could perhaps improve the efficiency by paralleling 2 or 3 inverters to drive the input of the gate and having a lower RDSon with the cost of a slightly higher Qg.

Remember that the tab of the mosfet is connected electrically to Drain, so make sure that if placed on a heat sink it is isolated electrically from the rest of the circuit.

>>198473
Look at the chart one more time, you will see Lumen/watt and by that you can calculate the total costs for a given time of usage.

I of course did a calculation on lifetime cost.
The cost of installing led's (with transformer an all) would be paid back from the savings within a year. also included that the transformer were not 100% efficient.

but lumen/$ would be something that could be of interest if you were looking for a lot of light as cheap as possible, where power consumption were not first priority.

>>197965
Why is that?

The list could also be use able for other projects.


I'm going to make a list of "real" white led tape in the range 2700k - 3200k, got anything for that.

the amplifier it usually a TDAxxxx
placed behind the metal bar.

http://www.t139.com/uploads/allimg/110622/499_110622120439_4.jpg

this is just an example of the many TDA that exists
http://www.google.dk/search?hl=da&sugexp=llsin&ds=i&pq=car+radio+amplifier&cp=5&
gs_id=4e&xhr=t&q=TDA7850&um=1&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:da:o
fficial&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1620&bih=842&ie=UTF-8&tbm
=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=3JuJT_DmLsbS4QS9kPHKCQ

>>197588
>So theoretically if i had a frequency generator capable of producing the right frequency for running a specific flyback would it work?
The short answer is yes.

the working frequency is in a range, although is is narrow, it will work in a small range.

i guess a PLL driver would be the best way to drive it, but it is more complicated.

>I guess my question is: are these solid state drivers just high frequency generators?
yes and a "amplifier"

you usually build a high frequency oscillator, a mosfet driver, connect it to a powermosfet and a snubber circiu.

the output stage is where the "hard" part lies, because of high currents at high switching speeds.

if you take a part a some what new car radio/cd player, you will find a integrated amplifier chip capable of driving low impedance inductive loads.
this amplifier should be fast enough to drive a flyback, and it should have enough power to make neat sparks when driven from 12V - 16V (18 absolute max rating)

one could easily hack the already existing pcb and modify it to be usable.

most IC parts could be found on http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/

>>197578
A tone generator or pc is not needed.

would highly advise to get hold of a oscilloscope though.

build a astabile multi vibrator using a NE555

>>197568
You are some what on the right track.

you need to drive the coil at HF, not sure if it is 30kHz.

where the project fail as to now is with the use of:

A relay would't be no where fast enough.
A single transistor is not enough, you would need at least two, in the right connection.
Driving with a ipod might not be possible.

don't think that mp3 stores frequencies above 18-22kHz, i would doubt that an ipod is build such that is able to play frequencies over 20kHz.

When that is said, you should look at hos pwm works, look in to flyback boost circiuts, half-bridge drivers.

you should use mosfets, and some schottky diodes.

Under construction.
I recall it being 16mm.