[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / ic / jp / lit / sci / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports ] [ become a patron ] [ status ]
2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Search:


View post   

>> No.1527416 [View]

>>1527410
You salty little kids complain when I post with or without it. I'm sorry that it devastates you so that adults who know what they're talking about post here, maybe you should ask your mom for a second plate of tendies and have an extra long nap?

Unbelievable.

>> No.1527242 [View]

>>1527239
Great answer as always.

>> No.1526911 [View]

>>1526876
How low does it go? My torque wrenches all stop at 0ft-lbs, but I have never read the instructions. I just set them to 0 when I’m done.

>> No.1526909 [View]

>>1526907
Thanks bby. It’s a lot of effort making all of these posts replying to myself.

>> No.1526896 [View]
File: 81 KB, 1936x1089, B0715C55-AE56-4D70-A7DE-2EF1712F909F.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1526896

>>1526891
Actually I don’t think Kobalt is the same as Stanley. It must be the same supplier that Tekton and HF use, which isn’t bad because the models that aren’t complete shit are Taiwan made, but they all have that cheap plastic selector switch which people tend to shear off, same complaint with the cheaper Craftsman ratchets which used to be metal until the early 00’s. Pic related is a Kobalt and Pittsburgh.

No idea who makes the Autozone ratchets, but those are actually a good buy too. You can get a flex head for <$30 and it’s Taiwan made and a ripoff of Snappy design. The head on those, as well as the Snappy ratchets, is small but deep, kinda the opposite of the Gearwrench design which is thin but somewhat wide.

The newest Craftsman ratchets is another one that I’m not sure about but it must have something to do with Stanley. I wouldn’t buy one because they aren’t serviceable at all. You can’t take them apart to clean, grease, or rebuild.

>> No.1526891 [View]
File: 11 KB, 466x466, EC15D05D-77FE-4447-8A9B-71F1287675B3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1526891

>>1526882
>>1526865
From left to right:
1) Kobalt 72T (1/4”)
2) Husky 72T (1/4”)
3) Duralast 72T (1/4”)
4) Gearwrench 84T (3/8”)
5) Gearwrench 120XP (3/8”)
6) Pitt Pro 72T (3/8”)
7) Williams 36T (3/8”)
8) Craftsman 36T (3/8”)
9) Craftsman 72T (3/8”)

Tha Kobalt is a few years old so they may have changed designs or suppliers since then but I have a feeling that’s the same mechanism as the Stanley 72T ratchets. The Williams is the same as the last gen Snap On 936 ratchets, and the Dual 80 ratchets are kinda like a mix of that design with the GW 120XP system. Pitt Pro is the same exact thing as Tekton 72T ratchets. Craftsman 36T have been the same fucking forever, but those thin profile designs are Apex-GW models. Like I said, the 84T Craftsman Thin is the same as GW 84T, but with a quick release, the 72T Thin is the same as that except the plastic F/R lever instead of metal like the GW and Husky, and then pic related is the same 72T Apex mech as Husky and the other Craftsman, but this has the metal F-R switch unlike the 72T Thin. All of the newest Craftsman wrenches at Lowe’s are different. I want to buy a 100T Husky so I can take it apart and see what’s in there.

Just look at pic related and compare it to the Husky and Gearwrenches. It’s the same thing with a different handle. I really like that design so I don’t think you can go wrong with any of those Apex designs aside from the one Craftsman 72T with the plastic switch.

>>1526871
Actually I was thinking, the one difference with Husky is the quick release. That creates a weak spot and people will break those when they start using a cheater bar on ratchets. So if you had that issue, don’t use fucking cheater bars.

>> No.1526880 [View]

>>1526871
>>1526875
Also Tekton and HF Pitt Pro ratchets are exactly the same.

>> No.1526877 [View]

>>1526874
Stanley isn’t that terrible. A lot of their stuff is cheap, but the Fatmax tools try to be contractor grade.

>> No.1526875 [View]

>>1526871
Yeah it’s early and I’m retarded, one gear but two pawls offset slightly so it’s basically 2x60T mechanisms but where one pawl engages at 0deg, 6deg, 12deg, the other engages as 3deg, 9deg, 15deg, etc. But the 120XP’s have that little bit fatter head.

And the Husky and Gearwrench are the same aside from a couple more teeth. You can deny it, but it’s right there in the picture.

>> No.1526865 [View]
File: 3.42 MB, 4032x3024, 133512FD-0D51-4767-A07A-C7901F0CCAE8.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1526865

>>1526855
But they are....

Well, the 120xp is a bit different because it’s 2x 60T gears and two pawls, but the 84T GW ratchets are still really smooth, and those are exactly the same mechanism as the Craftsman 84T Thin Profile, the old Craftsman Professional 84T, and then the 72T has a couple less teeth and is used in the Craftsman 72T with the fat handle (except that model has the stupid cheap plastic selector switch, so I would avoid because it’s a weak link), the Craftsman Extreme Grip with the plastic ergo handle (good buy when you can catch it for $15), and the Husky 72T ratchets.

I’m a fan of the Husky ratchets too, I have a 1/4” drive model and it’s super thin plus has very little back drag which is nice on small nuts and bolts in tight spots. Gearwrench has the best selection though, the 84T flex handle set for $80 on Amazon right now is such a steal, I would recommend that to anybody looking to upgrade their cheapo 36T ratchets.

Pic related. Husky 72T is #2, GW 84T and 120XP are 4 and 5, and then Craftsman 72T is #9.

>> No.1526853 [View]
File: 41 KB, 450x450, 14699D26-925D-4664-9823-C5C999C45B58.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1526853

>>1526851
>>1526787
But what about the Cheetos?

>> No.1526852 [View]
File: 70 KB, 640x300, 2CBE825F-3CA5-4AD2-BD70-B920E66A8208.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1526852

>>1526823
>tfw Husky 72T ratchets are made by the same people as Gearwrench

>>1526740
Gearwrench is straight. I prefer it over current Craftsman for sure. Plus with Sears going under, I don’t like buying bigger money Craftsman stuff because I’m not convinced I will be able to warranty it if it breaks in 5-10 years. Most Gearwrench stuff is Taiwan made which is better than Chinese crap. Apex is the brand that owns Gearwrench, they also own Crescent and Allen and some other companies and I have been satisfied with all of their tools.

A lot of people like Tekton now too. Everything is affordable on Amazon and most of that is Taiwanese. If you want to spend a little more without breaking the bank, Williams makes nice stuff as well. It’s Snap On’s Industrial brand. Some of it is US made, the rest is Taiwan made along with Blue Point.

DeWalt and Milwaukee’s new lines of hand tools are nice too but all of the Milwaukee stuff seems slightly overpriced.

>> No.1526848 [View]

>>1526729
Did you ever get a low oil presure light? The stuff that would get worn pretty much requires a full engine rebuild to replace

>> No.1526847 [View]

>>1526712
>Cesium jet
Cool lemme just order one from Amazon.

>> No.1526845 [View]
File: 10 KB, 300x300, 5FF3E0F7-C29C-48FA-B1D0-EB197CCC5230.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1526845

>>1526714
>sparkies are lazy
Ahh, makes sense. I like soldering and heat shrinking but I’m not trying to clock out before 4pm so time isn’t as much of a concern.

I got these pic related quick splice things in some terminal assortment kits too but have yet to use them.

>> No.1526709 [View]
File: 250 KB, 640x632, 6142B842-647E-429D-8764-C8CC16898872.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1526709

>>1526706
How come they use wire nuts instead of pic related for 120V stuff?

>> No.1526704 [View]

>>1526698
If the paint or gas fumes are strong enough to ignite off that thing, you have other issues.

>> No.1526692 [View]

>>1526683
>copper rings and a microwave
I see nothing wrong with OP’s hypothesis. These “scientists” in your pic over engineer shit to a useless point because they can.

>> No.1526688 [View]

>>1526679
>go through the expansive toutorials
That’s too much work for me! How the hell am I expected to actually finish any of those projects?

>>1526686
>useful 4chan post #73386959768

>> No.1526674 [View]

>>1526659
Use a vaccuum instead. Compressed air tends to blow the Cheeto crumbs fucking everywhere, meanwhile a vaccuum will collect them in a small receptacle so you can save them for a snack later.

>> No.1526664 [View]

>>1526218
I think Li-Ions aren’t as touchy as some people are afraid of. Put them away with close to a full charge and try not to leave then for 5 years and you should be ok.

>>1526604
For the average Ryobi owner who is a weekend warrior, I wouldn’t stress about it. You get slightly longer battery life, a little bit more power, and no brushes to wear out... but is 10% more battery or power worth spending 50% more when you’re using them around the house? And when was the last time you owned a power tool long enough to need to replace the brushes?

>> No.1525672 [View]

>>1525670
I was on some Yuro electrician IG page with all these fuckups, and I saw a whole lot of those. As a burger who has never really messed with mains power, I have never seen one of those.

>> No.1525665 [View]

>>1525589
Think about it, hybrid drivetrains like that would actully be really good for towing if you could keep the weight to a reasonable limit.

Electric motors are full of torks, give you extra power accelerating or uphill when you need it, plus all of the cargo weight means the batteries should be able to recover tons of power when braking. City buses use hybrid systems all the time now because of the constant stop-go driving.

>> No.1525659 [View]

>>1525518
>>1525631
Refurbished for 50%-75% of MSRP sounds legit. There’s no good way to look up reviews of these sites, but you can google it and make sure it’s not a scam website created 30 days ago.

Sounds more legit than those Facebook ads selling 8pc Milwaukee M18 sets for $79.

Navigation
View posts[+24][+48][+96]