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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.1968069 [View]

>>1968063
>tfw the cheap nozzle in the image ACTUALLY has a better, smaller nozzle face, a non-conical opening and thinner walls for better thermal performance
I'd STILL buy and use the cheaper nozzles after seeing this image. Strange.
The wiggly hole has zero effect and at cents each, the Chinese 'crap' is STILL the best buy and that's why I use them and have bags of them.

>> No.1968066 [View]

>>1968054
I buy the cheapest Chinese brass (called 'copper' in China!) and they just work.
They last for ages and just work.

>> No.1968052 [View]
File: 82 KB, 1024x768, Davros LinearBearingSupport2019Jan18 v91 TubeEnd.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1968052

>>1968051

>> No.1968051 [View]
File: 103 KB, 1024x768, LinearBearingSupport2019Jan18 v91 CornerTrackSupport.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1968051

>>1968042
No prob.
BTW... the kicker is the 'Big Square Ring' is made of 40mm thick Kitchen Worktop... which is EASILY available here in Europe.
Timber... because anyone can find it in dumpsters/'skips' for zero cost and it is good-enough for me.
Hope this helps.
The green-tensioner on the 'tube-runner' uses a 3dprinted 'eccentric' hole, if I recall.
Sorry... it's been a while.
It's pretty modular and could even be laser/waterjet cut if required. Lots of identical parts. It's how I was taught to design.

>> No.1968037 [View]
File: 110 KB, 1024x768, LinearBearingSupport2019Jan18 v90 ADJUSTABLE-TUBE-RUNNER.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1968037

>>1968030
These run on the square-cross-sectioned tube.

>> No.1968035 [View]
File: 41 KB, 1024x768, DxvrosCNC 2019Jan24 v43 ShowingThreadedRod.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1968035

>>1968030
Better view of Motor, threaded rod and Yellow(Router Motor) + back of upright bed.

>> No.1968030 [View]
File: 79 KB, 1024x768, DavrosCNC 2019Jan24 v43 NewerLayout.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1968030

>>1968018
The rest are individual parts so don't show the layout... this is kinda the later layout.
Blue is the motor PUSHING the tool into the work against the frame. The work is on the upright and cannot move away due to the tool always sandwiching the work between it and the other side of the loop.
Most flex comes about due to the tool pushing up from the work or the work pushing away from the tool. THIS can do neither.

>> No.1968028 [View]
File: 104 KB, 1024x768, DavrosCNC Mk3 v57 EARLY VERSION.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1968028

>>1968018
Maybe he forgot... I don't. 8)

>> No.1968017 [View]

>>1968007
>motors
Bigger equals better and I had my eye on some dual shaft models to take advantage of the feedback on the Chinese controllers I had in my watch list. So much has fallen by the wayside this year.
I will post it on Thingiverse as I haven't been on in a while and it was supposed to go on there when finished. It's NOT complete yet but it's well underway and I did get a lot of parts, scrounged and recycled and found and bought.
>give me a mo and I'll make an image using Fusion360 and get back to you.... if this bread gets archived...I'll post it anyways.
Watch this space...
anon DOES deliver, I assure you.

>> No.1968008 [View]

>>1967994
>608ss
Sorry... that's another project.
ABEC-7ss running on steel tubing driven via T8 threaded rods connected to motors
Think "Prusa lying on its back" and you kinda have it.
>2020
It's been a bad year.
Can't wait for this 'new normal' to stabilize. I feel we aren't going back to the 'old normal' anytime soon. Got a LOT of design work and experience this year on Fusion360 but I'm still missing some of my old Inventor features.

>> No.1967994 [View]

>>1967984
It only has a workspace of 30cm x 30cm x 30cm.
It is kinda designed like my own Prusa-copy-ish but it needs at least NEMA23s.
3dprinter NEMA17s are simply not strong enough to do more than scratch and miss steps.
>not working on it RIGHT now as I have other things to do
But I was thinking of going back to it and have many of the parts already printed for the X, Y and some of the Z axis. The surfaces run on sheets of PTFE and all the bearings are off-the-shelf 608ss bearings.
>basic design
It is somewhat like a Prusa that fell onto its back... as the workpiece moves VERTICALLY and the cutter lies flat so the chips fall off and down into a tub underneath.... like milling on the lathe. A curved acrylic shield swings down over the work stopping chips being thrown around your room.
>existing milling machines
Are just flat-bed plotters with a dremel.
At least my design can be updated later with a 4th axis.
>I spent some time on it but my uncle passed away and we used to chat about it, him being an old engineer, he had no contributions but was very encouraging and it used to cheer him up when we chatted about it
After, he died, it kinda got shelved.
2020 has been a crap year.

>> No.1967982 [View]

>>1967033
Is anyone here interested in the files for 3d printed parts for a 3d milling machine I've been designing?
Just curious if there's a market or interest.
It's all flat laminar parts so your first job is supposed to be to mill its own parts in aluminium from aluminium sheets, replace the parts and pass the 3d printed parts on to a friend/someone-who-annoys-you-less-than-the-others.
Just curious whether I should continue with it...

>> No.1923598 [View]

That second tank might be the aerobic tank. In some locales with high clay content soils, there's a two-part tank where the first does the anaerobic breakdown and the second introduces oxygen. The oxygenated water going into the drain field encourages the bacteria that fight the organisms that cause the "biomat" that grows around the pipes and restricts drainage from them. The air is pumped in via a pipe where the pump may be located in your basement, or there can be a motor that agitates the effluent and mixes air in via a with hollow shaft. The second type requires the hatch be located above ground with a small aperture in it.

>> No.1923595 [View]

Modern TVs have really poor quality connectors, especially the ZIF (Zero Insertion Force). When I had a problem with my TV where it wouldn't show anything green, I opened the TV, waited for the capacitors to discharge, and then went through removing and re-inserting all the connections. That TV then operated well for another several years.

>> No.1539694 [View]

>>1539691
Only gone and shagged Ali Bongo round the corner hasnt she the bloody slag.

>> No.1539688 [View]

Oi spacker steve you in mate?

>> No.1539433 [View]

Love a bit of DIY sex me

>> No.790217 [View]
File: 19 KB, 425x340, trackir5-clip-bundle_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
790217

Sup /diy/, I am looking to build my own TrackIR rig using a webcam, and a IR light source with reflective surfaces for tracking head movement ingame. Software is FreeTrack.

How would I wire a USB 2.0 cable to power some IR LEDs? I would like to be able to just plug it into my tower for power so I dont have to worry about swapping batteries every so often. Thanks peeps

>> No.738796 [View]

>>732363
Oh, I see.
Thanks, OP!

>> No.673257 [View]

>>672824
keked

>> No.523004 [View]

>>522791
http://youtu.be/RNrWNPzc3aM

>> No.347285 [View]
File: 67 KB, 520x280, Electricity.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
347285

Cool diy electricity stuff to do? I have a huge field behind my house, what could I make there that actually serves a purpose?

>> No.278634 [View]

>>278452
Jamie?
I would shit myself laughing if it really was my ex...the fucking cunt

>> No.255855 [View]

Make a case to conceal them and swipe random peoples piercings.

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