/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>165132
not unless LOIC is available for linux, BSD, or wince you're not.

>>164713
water pressure = voltage
amount you open the tap = amperage

>>165017
Just a note, if you're pulling your replacement parts from a parts truck, save yourself some trouble and just install the brakes and bearings from the donor vehicle. Vastly simplifies the procedure.

4 rusted 14mm bolts on the backside of the brake backing plate is what holds the axle in the truck. Remove them and the shaft will slide out with a good yank. It will also bring the brake hardware with it, so disconnect & plug the hydraulics first.

Then you have to get the bearing carrier and brake hardware off of the old, bent axle. Officially this requires having it pressed off, but realistically people do it with sledgehammers, pipes, and scrap wood. There's also a snap-ring.

Put on a new wheel seal, too, while you have it that far apart. It's probably all torn up from being on a wobbly axle anyway.

So total parts list is:
>axle shaft
>bearing
>seal
>brake drum
>brake hardware
>brake shoes

From the sounds of it you simply have a single bent axleshaft.

A drum brake mounted on a bent shaft will get hot very quickly, it causes brake drag as the inward-bent side passes the shoe. You should probably replace the shoes, drum, and small hardware while you have it apart.

While you have the shaft out you should also replace the bearing(s) in that side, because they have taken quite a sideways wallop. Depending on the design of the axle the bearings may be pressed on to the shaft - in that case you will need to have a new bearing pressed on to the new shaft.

You will only need one corner off of the ground to do this repair, and no serious elevation. The assembly is staying in the truck.

The only thing you need to worry about with the replacement axleshaft is that it is the same length and splinecount as the old. I assume nearly all Toyota trucks of this era use the same axle with different gearing, so this shouldn't be a problem.

RS is now saying they're going to be using the "Register your interest" form as a list of who gets the first batch.

Parnell's american partner, Newark, is allowing you to order, but with $20 s/h fee for expidited shipping from the UK. If you want to skip the international dropship, you can telephone their USA sales office directly at 800.463.9275, and only have to pay standard UPS ground, but you have to wait a couple weeks for the US warehouse to get their shipment, coming via (slow) cargo ship.

I'm seriously considering waiting for the Model A now.

RS' website is no longer fucked, but only has an "express interest" form up, no proper product page.

Farnell is still hosed, but rumors are that they sold out during the brief period the site was reachable.

People who have reached RS by telephone are reporting
a) they are only selling to businesses and
b) they will not be available until the end of the week

The .org tweets that both of those things are contrary to what they negotiated with RS.

>>164119
Thank you for the 1st serious reply to the question I originally asked. I've never soldered on PCB before and am not familiar with how it conducts heat.

I'll just get these stubs off, then.

On the plus side, the announcement that the model A will have 256 MB of RAM, just like the model B, has made me change my overall plans. If I can't get a unit out of this first batch, I will order an A. There's no longer any reason to buy a B - spending $10 for a USB hub and a USB ethernet adaptor is silly.

the Farnell site is finally loading something for me. A static page...

>Our websites are currently unavailable whilst we perform a scheduled system upgrade.

I'm trying to get through the RS storefront and find the product, but it takes like 20 tries to get anything to load on their site (but when it does load it seems functional)

They picked the wrong damn partners for this launch. An amazon-marketplace shop, yahoo storefront or an eBay store would have served SO much better then some guys who can't even keep a web page up.

>>164064
No luck. The official Rpi store is down with a static page message redirecting you to the .org

The .org gives links to two 3rd party web stores that will be selling it, both of which are damn-near unusable from the traffic. The RS components site is doing slightly better, but I haven't even been able to get to a product page.

>>163924
Of course I'm an anal faggot. If I wasn't I would have stuck a piece of electrical tape over it screwed the case back on.

I'm not worried about desoldering the LED. I'm worried about accidentally desoldering components on the opposite side of the PCB in the process.

>>163917
It sits on my desk near my monitor by necessity - the length of my mouse cord requires it. It's also convenient for me to have a USB hub in that location anyway, for plugging in thumb drives and whatnot.

It's blue, and shines in my peripheral vision whenever I'm playing the vidya, jacking off to porn, or watching pirated feature films. If the hub's case ends up with the LED pointing in my general direction, it is painfully bright.

I hate blue LEDs

Hey /diy/, I would like to remove the ugly stubs left behind where I clipped the leads to a blue LED on this USB hub. Can I unsolder them without damaging the attachments for the chip on the other side?

>>163885
>>163879
fine, you assholes.

>>163879
I will do that if I have to.

>>163870
That's something I obviously considered, blocking it with tape, paint, etc.

But I'd prefer to cleanly remove it entirely, if possible. Call it personal preference.

The actual hub chip is directly opposite the LED on the PCB. This scares the shit out of me - I'm afraid I'll be heating the LED leads and the chip is gonna fall off or something.

Is that a legit concern, is there a particular technique I need to use to protect the rest of the board?

Or do I need to give up entirely, crush it with a pair of pliers, and cut the leads short?

Hey /diy/, I would like to disable or (preferably) remove the blue LED from this USB hub. I was considering simply unsoldering it. I have a cheap 40w soldering iron, and have gotten pretty good at splicing and repairing copper wires over my lifetime, however that's the only soldering I've ever done.

There is a complication.

>>158309
It would be cheaper to purchase the outlet. However, then your house wouldn't be wired to code, because the plug would be technically wired incorrectly. If you change the plug on the drier instead, then the house is still wired properly, you just have a device that's breaking the rules. Which seems better to me.

>>158296
>>158309
The plug on your wall appears to be an obsolete NEMA 6-50 outlet. It's a 50a 208-240v plug which provides Hot, Hot, and ground - no neutral. The "common" 3-prong drier plug you link is NEMA 10-30, which 30a 208-240v plug that provides Hot, Hot, and neutral - no ground. 6-50 is gradually being replaced by the twist-lock L6-50, but very slowly.

The 4-wire cable currently attached to your drier is a 14-30, which provides Hot, Hot, Neutral, and Ground. It's what new construction has, and the twist-lock version is what's on most 240v generators.

If your drier requires a neutral to operate (most have some minor 120v needs, like the motor, timer, or lighting), you can effectively use ground as a neutral to make it work. Of course, then you'd be carrying current on your household ground, which is generally frowned upon, but it's a truly minuscule amount. Especially considering most dryers wired with a 10-30 plug are using neutral for a ground, and carrying that same current in the body of the drier.

Pop that outlet off and see if there's an unused neutral wire inside. If there is, install a 14-30 outlet. If not, either buy a 6-50 cord or a 10-30 outlet and connect your dryer using ground for a neutral.

>>141850
ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner

In many cases it's cheaper and easier to lay a new drain field than trying to dig up and repair the old one.

Some of the new drain field setups are really easy to DIY. Perforated pipes are out, the new strategy is to use these gravel-filled perforated BUCKETS, evenly spaced, connected by regular non-perforated PVC.

yeah you can do that.

Just be aware that VGA is analog, and you're likely to see some decline in picture quality if the run is too long. You can improve the situation by reducing the refresh rate or resolution.

A restaurant I used to manage was set up with several station monitors running on hundred foot runs of VGA cables, all running to a central machine crammed full of PCI video cards on the other side of the building. Picture quality was fine, but they were only running at 640x480/60hz.