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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.755859 [View]

my saniflo toilet has macerating blades. shit is the best

>> No.754533 [View]

>>754521
you can modify nuts and bolts to fit in the groves by grinding off the sides and bottoms. its fine if you only need a few bigger ones, but making consumables by hand is stupid and a waste of time. depending on your extrusion profile, you should be able to use the standard aluminum extrusion hardware. but it depends on what kind you want/ budget. you can get a ton of basic ones for cheaper, you can get spring loaded ones that will stay in place, you can get ones to insert after everything else is assembled,


>>754496
yeah its all the same shit, im just saying.
but yeah cost wise i find them reasonable, but its all the hardware and brackets that will bring up cost.
do you have access to any milling/drilling machines? its not needed but it helps a lot.
the misumi website had a lot of good technical articles, aswell as the boschrexroth and 8020 site. buy more hardware than you think you will need.

for 2020 you will need 6mm thick acrylic/PC so it slides in almost perfect fit.
Also, the derping about acrylics, they need to learn2acrylic. if you cant cut or drill it without it cracking then you need to git good. you can also cut large sheets of acrylic with a utility blade, up yo 6.35mm thick by scoring it like glass.
acrylic will be fine for your computer case.
For both acrylic and PC, you can just go to a local plastic supply store, or even a hardware store (home depot)

>> No.754337 [View]

>>754101
it does feel like a makers circle jerk
it made me feel a little uncomfortable , im a very anxious guy.
my local one had a bunch of 3d printers, a shapeoke, a small laser cutter, drill press, some gay wood tools, big solder station, microscopes, reflow oven...
so yeah i did seem like a makers circle jerk. the rules were if you havent been trained on the tools , wait till you are. the other was , we are all adults here so treat the machines like such. it looked like they had the aspect down.

they did have some non circle jerk aspects, like a xerox wax printer, and some one set up a phone system like at an office building inside which was cool.

$60 a month though, suck that dick

>> No.754330 [View]

>>754161
misumi
bosch rexroth
80/20 is bottom tier for me.

I got a 10 ft extrusion od 1010 (fucking imperial bullshit) for $50 from fastenal.

all the fasteners and T nuts and brackets that add up

>> No.746711 [View]
File: 2.53 MB, 3008x2000, DSC_0427.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
746711

>>746704
this fan was way more fucking cumbersome than i thought it would be.

my 3phase converter should be at work on the 29/30

I just have to finish the chainsaw EoAT, and the knife tool

>> No.746701 [View]

Collecting Hardware,
metric hardware
Brass Metric Hardware.
Any metric hardware
but brass metric harware give me a metric hardware if ya na means. even if its making brass hardware for no reason.
rethreading imperial Standoffs for electronics into metric gets me hard. rethreading brass hardware like acorn nuts and thumb screws from homedepot, into metric threads.

Taking apart something thats looks imperial and then BOOM HOLY FUCKING METRIC HARDWARE just boner city

>> No.746694 [View]
File: 2.62 MB, 2000x3008, DSC_0423.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
746694

Project LASER SEX ROBOT with this cute girl from work. the only non cute part of this project was unloading the 500lb robot and controller with her because it was so fucking heavy.

>> No.742380 [View]

are you saying this doesnt work or what?
Because it does work so much easier than a saw and cleaner cut.

Doing PC this way is a bit harder, but it still works.

Plastic also has a semi crystalline molecular structure, none that we are talking about though

>> No.709695 [View]
File: 2.66 MB, 3008x2000, DSC_0378.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
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had to move the entire shop around to move this thing where its gonna sit for the time being. the ol man says it cant stay here so my friend n I need to get/rent a workshop.
this cocksucking robot with the base is sooooo fucking heavy

>>709687
ma trip/

>> No.709225 [View]
File: 129 KB, 790x868, robobo_work_area.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
709225

>>709221
8)

>> No.709223 [View]

>>709171
from a country rube on kijiji for,.,,,,,$500.00 robot, controller, pendant, an hmi, and a vme motion controller for something else. he sold the welder for $300

>>709214
what wont i use it for? first thing is a fleshlight end of arm tool.

>>709176
closest business is 1km away on the next city block, which is an industrial area. i will have to call to find out. probably not going to get them to install one if its not the.

>>709201
>>709211
thats what i was hoping, cheaper. I guess i just need to figure out the load. those ebay ones are alot cheaper than i thought. im not replacing the ac servo motors for single phase ones.
I can get one thats rated properly for the whole controller and not 6 individual ones for each motor?

>> No.709136 [View]
File: 2.44 MB, 2000x3008, DSC_0374.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
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>> No.709133 [View]
File: 2.61 MB, 2000x3008, DSC_0376.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
709133

I just got this new metal dick extension for a price too good to pass up. Came with controller, pendant, steel base, an HMI, and a VMEbus motion controller.
Its a Motoman SK6 with MRC controller, 6 axis, 6kg payload. Guy sold the welding unit seperate but what ever I didnt exactly want to weld with this. so comments, questions or help me.

Everything appears to be here wire/part wise.

I just need to find out how to get 3phase in my area. I will probably opt for a phase converter if that will work.
I have a guy that I'm going to bring in to check out thew high voltage stuff

>> No.694825 [View]

>>694782
It would be silly for any company to sell rods like that, precut. rods are cheaper than rails, but rods+ bearings+rod holders x2 is the same price as 1 rail + carriage. you can get a rail+ carriage for like $45 for 500mm of rail and one carriage

http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/mech/M0100000000/M0101000000/
misumi sells things cut to length.

you can just buy a chop saw and make your own kits.

>> No.694573 [View]

>>694209
ok heres some advice in reguards to ontario.
Automotive is a fucking shit career. dont stop learning about cars, but the job is the fucking worst. the customers are awful, and their cars are fucking shit heaps. ontario has the worst cars in the country because of the salt brine they use on the roads. fuck ontario automotive.

you do not apply for anything except for a job.
\
When you do get a job, the employeer will pay for your school. you will go to school one day a week for 40 hours. after youve completed your level (theres like 3 or 4 levels) you will get a raise, and the government will give you $1000. the next level same thing. and the last level is $2000. $4000 in total.

the employer get money or tax shit for you being an apprentice. 8000 hours later, you are king of the fucking world with a red seal , meaning anywhere in canada you get recognition for being the professional you are.

The fuckheads at the Ontario College of trades, which is the governing body for ontario trades, are fucking awful. they took my yearly fee, they sent m,e a gay ass wallet card, and they do nothing else. I asked for some help finding a machinist /tool n die job. They told me to check oput Goodwill or the job bank.

Either way, trades all day. but fuck automotive

>> No.694567 [View]

looks wicked.
build one first though.
You were talking about easy to source parts and around $300, but

those lead screw nuts are expensive and not exactly easy to source. for the cost of those nuts, lead screws, couplers and stepper motors, you can just get stepper motors with lead screws integrated into them. for the cost and for the sake of simplicity and ease of use. It would also be a real ass leadscrew and not a threaded rod

same thing with the x axis, for the cost of all those parts, you can (easily) source a rail and carriage and have it be just so much easier to do everything.

and the talk about wobble and couplers. the way some printers avoid the zaxis wobble affecting their prints, is by making the nuts not captive (exactly) to the frame.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40272
>>692847
Inventor is a shit tier CAD program

>> No.694561 [View]

Turn them clockwise for a different reason. if its frozen, you can break the freeze by giving it any motion. like turn it clockwise a tiny bit to get it moving , we do that at my old auto job.

Penetrating fluid works wonders, or just a bit of oil .

You can get a small punch and walk it out by hitting the screw in a counter clockwise rotation

Impact driver,

what size was the hex?

also this http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

>> No.690332 [View]

>>690047
>>689969
I was thinking the same thing, lathe, for obvious reasons like stated, but again, everything is dangerous when you dont know what your ect.
but the work piece is still spinning so damn fast, its not like i stand in front of my piece but still.

Id go with bench grinder. but because of people not knowing how to properly use it.
like not grinding on the side of the wheel

>> No.689860 [View]

Man is the most dangerous tool

>> No.687640 [View]

>>687619
>It's not a problem for your type
it was though. when i was still dicking around with rods and plastic parts.
its also much more , i dont want to say important, but important to have access to the extruder motor and hot end than the rods and belts. with a good design they rarely need service and with a good design, you can service them from the back.

it just good to be able to see the hot end to monitor what its doing. it is, of course hot, you will want to see if its jamming, melting the frame, what ever, ect.
I know its direct drive, but even with direct drive its also ,i want to say necessary, to be able to feed the filament by hand and be able to turn the drive somehow.

I think i like what youve done with the xmotor though, in between the rod and leadscrew.

I would post a real pic of that printer, but that one isnt mine, but one im drawing up for a girl I like at work. so I dont have any of the parts with me.

also highlight/explain what you mean by 3 and 4

and what do you think of mine?

>> No.687613 [View]
File: 162 KB, 1680x1011, kj-xplate.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
687613

>>687558
explain

>> No.687315 [View]

i forgot my link


http://www.ppe.com/14cat/0972.pdf

this is a link to a catalog of screws. they include about every dimension you will need. it goes on for like 16 pages of different screw materials, platings, ect

>> No.687309 [View]

>>687203
ok, if your screw is going to be that large, you are seriously better off just building an extruder around an already made screw.
I understand it is about learning, but as an engineer, it will be up to you to source out the best options beased on ease of availability, cost, and standard geometry. metering screw sizes become common at about 19mm/ 3/4'' . to make a feed screw like this, im fairly sure they use a 4-5 axis grinding machine. ive seen a few builds that used a common screw and everything else built around it and they look like top tier for something like that.


my background is CAD/CAM industrial automation and Electrical engineering. Right now I am working at an tier2 automotive plant where we do , among many other things, injection molding and insert molding. I do work for the tool room, machine maintence, production, and engineering departments.

>> No.687217 [View]

definitely do not do a 2part xplate. among other things, its going to put unnecessary and unwanted stress on your rods

>>687206
ok ok if were cool here,
because wood dowel pins and automation dowel/locating pins are pretty different.
http://www.zaber.com/wiki/Manuals/G-LSQ#Alignment_Procedure
i use this style of outside locating dowel pin for my rails and carriages

http://www.misumi-techcentral.com/tt/en/lca/2009/12/022-motion-mechanism-design---9-ballscrew-selection.html

check out the "next" button, there are like 4 more pages on dowel pins and workholding

http://us.misumi-ec.com/maker/misumi/mech/tech/locatingpinshowtheyareused/

i use these other 2 styles are like slip fit and press fit work for like my end of arm tools (extruder for 3d printer)) for my machines

the difference is soooo night and day.


for machinining dowel pins one would be smaller than the other for a fit type pin, the undersized one would not be removed and the over sized one would be the one that sees removal from the mating part.

drilling and reaming the 2 parts over top of each other is a fast way to get bad holes. i usually drill from one dowel hole to the next one and then the rest of the holes (on the mill)

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