/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>676272
I'm just glad I won't have to time anything.

>>676259
In action: http://youtu.be/ReM3B6bzMYg

I managed to thread it. Here's the result.

The machine feeds the cloth and stitches without any hickups.

>>675663
>>675663
I got it out. The bolt that keeps the cover over the internals also screws perfectly into the hole for the spool pin. Looks like I'll have to go to my local industrial supply store and see if they have something with the same threads that would work.

>>675642
Other side

New problem:

I found out the spool pin has been broken off leaving part of it inside the thread. How should I get it out?


I was going to try drilling but I'm afraid the drill can't take it or I might damage the metal cover's threads.

>>675439
Does it work now? The old ass account I use keeps doing that for some reason.

Here's some videos of the machine working.

Is there anything glaringly wrong with the mechanism from this video/how it sounds?

http://youtu.be/7KXvdVLI5R8 [Embed]
http://youtu.be/Piizrp9frS8 [Embed]

>>675424
A link would work.

>>675421
>>675417

Sadly no guns for now, but I have the correct sewing machine oil available.

>>675405
Looks like WD40 just evaporates eventually.


I'll just replace it with sewing machine oil in a few days after letting the WD40 evaporate.

>>675404
>>675399
Besides, how would I even get it out and replace it with sewing machine oil?

>>675399
It's all metal inside.

>>675388
Looks like it's working great.

It's now faster than before with no overheating.

>>675388

>>675379
Sears Kenmore Model 158.12020


I've been using WD40 to clean out grime and rust anyways so everything is probably lubricated now.

It's amazing how high quality this thing is. Cleaning with WD40 definitely made the wheel easier to turn by hand.

>>675348
Underside is wide open. I plan on oiling every joint possible.

Will that be a problem?

I don't have a manual and googling hasn't turned up much. >>675349

I'm currently trying to fix an old sewing machine. Motor works fine when carrying no load.


I've lubricated the motor and cleaned it.

However, when I stick it on the machine with the belt, I get maybe 10 cycles before the motor stops and makes a humming noise.

I'm guessing the load of the machine is too much as it is. I'm going to try to lubricate the mechanical parts. There doesn't seem to be any significant amounts of dust in there. Wet cotton swabs touched over the joints come out mostly clean by some miracle.


Any other suggestions?

I'm currently trying to fix a sewing machine. Motor works fine when carrying no load.

I've lubricated the motor and cleaned it.

However, when I stick it on the machine with the belt, I get maybe 10 cycles before the motor stops and makes a humming noise.

I'm guessing the load of the machine is too much as it is. I'm going to try to lubricate the mechanical parts. Any other suggestions?

>>631869
Scratch that note about the inks being negatively charged. It looks like they are "neutralized" upon being dried on the fabric by some polymer.

Some people on /k/, including myself, have expressed interest in printing out custom camo patterns on fabric, but not in the huge production runs normally required.

A popular company that allows people to upload their own design so that it can be printed is Spoonflower. Unfortunately, I have found that people report the inks have a serious fading problem if used as-is, so much that ink sometimes rubs off if you touch the dry fabric.

I eventually stumbled upon this website:
https://blog.etsy.com/en/2013/spoonflower-tour/
>Look for the picture of "Elton" written on a tape
which included a picture of one of their printers. I eventually figured out it used the HP 881 Latex inks.

According to this paper:
http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/newsroom/press_kits/2013/signanddisplaylaunch2013/LatexWhitePaper.pdf

the ink is not absorbed into the fibers but instead simply stays on the fabric's surface.

Do any of you guys know a way to "laminate" the ink to the surface without changing the fabric's texture and flexibility?

Alternatively, would something like a hot water bath in a slightly basic solution (since the ink is anionic according to the document) of Sodium Carbonate (Soda Ash) to "open" the cotton's fibers and let the pigments get deeper work? My only worry with that technique is that it would result in the dye running off excessively, but the basic pH should theoretically prevent that from happening.

>>624522

I managed to finish it last night.
Interestingly, it looks like they mixed 2 types of leather and painted over it with that yellow-orange dye. This was probably because my rucksack was made very soon after the Algerian War, so the factory probably wanted to use old parts they had lying around so they wouldn't go to waste.

Some of the leather I was able to remove the dye and get back the natural color; the rest of it looked grey once the dye was removed, so I had to use a dark brown dye on those parts to match the natural color I recovered on other parts.

Either way, here's how it came out.

I found out I can remove the yellow color using alcohol and/or acetone.

It looks like someone painted the dye onto the surface.

Anyone know a more powerful remover for this kind of job?

The acetone is pretty strong, but it still requires a bit of scrubbing.

I was thinking denatured alcohol.

>>621830
This is the worst cracked part.

It's a lot more supple now and a lot "moister" than it used to be.

So should I just get a bottle of Neatsfoot oil and apply it to all of the leather?