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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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688664 No.688664[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

Anyone have any links to build one of these? Only drawback I can see is pinched fingers.......

>> No.688670
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688670

I don't have a link but I did find this helpful blueprint

>> No.688673

>>688670

The important thing to note here is that wideness of door has to equal to 1/2 door size - clearance, then you should be good to go

>> No.688678

>>688664
http://www.tuxboard.com/evolution-door-klemens-torggler/

>> No.688824

>>688664
That thing looks as fragile as op's feelings.

>> No.688922

>>688664
That is b-beautiful. If you figure it out, please post back.

>> No.688935

>>688678
not op, but nice find.

looks interesting. definitely need some bearings.

>> No.689522

There are 3 pivot points.
The door buckles away from the wall as it moves.
The top and bottom pivot seem to be Heims joints.
The middle is some sort of spherical bearing.

>> No.689558

>>688664
It doesn't pinch fingers. The edges are soft foam rubber. This is quite carefully done, it's not going to be easy to reproduce.

They want to sell their fancy art doors for big money, so there aren't plans available, but there are quite a few different designs on display.
http://torggler.co.at/index.html

>> No.689575

>>689558
>it's not going to be easy to reproduce
>so there aren't plans available
Even and idiot should be able to make it just from looking at the pictures. The only thing you need to know is those 2 rods on the back and place them symmetrically.

>> No.689614
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689614

This might make my head hurt more if I wasn't so familiar with the available hardware choices. You have three separate linkages working together for this one artsy door.

It's really just three hinges and a sturdy door frame. The hinge in the middle has to traverse two axis/pivots at the same time, so it has to be a hinged standoff or rod-end and clevis.

But that would take up much more space than the more simplistic solution of just using an elastic cord or extension spring that runs through an eyelet or deep hole in the corner of those two panels. You drill a deep hole into the edge of those middle panels, then anchor an elastic cord or extension spring to the bottom of those holes.
The opening of the holes simply have to have lined or smoothed edges to reduce wear on the cord or spring.

The remaining issue them becomes latching. You can either use magnets, a grab catch, or a sliding door latch.
>>688673
Is correct. You can't only do this in a 2:1 door frame.

>> No.689618

>>689614
Cont'd on the latching.
As with the other doors he has made you could put a spring detent in the door frame that will line up with a divot in one or both of the upper and lower panels when they reach fully open or fully closed positions.

In any event I'm imagining this door to be a bit of a pain to open from the opposite direction.

>> No.689618,1 [INTERNAL] 

Does anybody seen the detail for the center pivot hinge? I imagine it is a balljoint knee, but I'm not sure.
The corner ones are straight forward.

>> No.689618,2 [INTERNAL] 

I think this is the the part how it shoulbe worked in that case at corner.