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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 73 KB, 1080x820, tableSketch.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1967312 No.1967312 [Reply] [Original]

I'm making a table/countertop for my kitchen. Sketching it out now, it's fairly simple but I'd like some input on materials.
So far the top board will be a 25" x 48" x 1.5" butcher block. The bottom board is a 24" x 48" x 0.75" sheet of hardwood plywood. The legs and cross bars will probably be galvanized pipes. I'm planning on putting casters on the bottom, but didn't bother adding those to the sketch.

I'm shooting for the final height to be between 34"-37" so I think right now once the casters are on it should be right around perfect. To achieve this height, I'm planning on using a combination of 10" and 21" pipes, since 36" would be too tall and 24" would be too short. These will be coupled together with a tee coupling, allowing me to add in some side cross bars. These side bars will add support and give the table more versatility--I plan on hanging hooks and things from them.

The legs are the only thing I'm iffy on, I've never used pipes like this to construct something. Are 3/4" galvanized pipes sturdy enough for this application? The butcher block is 42 pounds and I'd like the table to be able to hold a good amount of weight. And how much of a pain in the ass is it to get all the pipes aligned when there are so many threaded connections? The left and right legs will be big H's of pipe, seems like it could be tricky getting everything straight and proper.

Open to any other suggestions as well.

>> No.1967313

>>1967312
Whoops I misread the dimensions on the pipe that's available. The 10" pipes would be 8", and the 21" would be 24". So the overall height would be about an inch taller than my sketch.

>> No.1967317

Should also mention that the price tag of this project so far comes out to $229.59, which is way cheaper than similar butcher block tables I've been looking at. That include the casters and some conditioning oil for the wood.

>> No.1967961
File: 104 KB, 1125x900, pipe.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1967961

Bumping to ask a basic question on pipes, the only work I've done is with PVC really. If I have, for example, three 8" threaded pipes (pic related) and join them with two straight couplings, what is my expected total pipe length? I could see it being exactly (or very close to exactly) 24", but I could see it being slightly longer than 24" if the couplings don't allow for the ends of the pipe to touch.

And as a followup, does the equation change at all if I'm using a tee coupling?

>> No.1968074

as long as they are symmetric / an even height it doesnt really matter if the connections total 24 or 24.5 inches. as long as your connections are stable, four 3/4 pipes can definitely handle 42 lb.

>> No.1968087
File: 648 KB, 740x572, обложка.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1968087

ты coвceм мyдaк? Чё этo зa дepьмo

>> No.1968113

>>1967961
>if the couplings don't allow for the ends of the pipe to touch.

1. they won't touch. if they did it would probably leak.
2. if you want a pipe 24" long, just get one and skip the couplings and tees.

>> No.1968117

>>1968113
I should have picked different lengths as an example. The 24" was just that--an example for the purpose of asking a question. I'm not planning on chaining pipes together to reach a length I can buy in store. I am possibly planning on chaining pipes to reach lengths I can't buy in store. I may put a cross beam along the rear of the table for additional support, the length of pipe needed would be 41". This would require chaining a few lengths together as 41" pipes are not sold in stores and I don't have the tools to cut and thread pipe.

>> No.1968121

>>1967312
How are you attaching the pipes to the wood?

>> No.1968127
File: 17 KB, 355x268, flange.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1968127

>>1968121
Threaded floor flanges like this was the plan