/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1478843]

Old thread: >>1472324

Spooky plastic dolls with tits edition.

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
http://youtu.be/w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones
>Extruder
BMG or E3D

>Make collage for the next thread
https://www.befunky.com/

[Anonymous No.1478845]

It gets increasingly difficult to come up with new collages.

[Anonymous No.1478899]

Isn't this a blue board. I hope that op doesn't cause trouble...

[Anonymous No.1478901]

>>1478843
>made it into the OP

hot damn
Additionally going to title this collage "Ender 3 vs. Anet clone"

[Anonymous No.1478987]

So everyone is recommending the Ender 3, but I gotta ask: firstly, is the Ender 3 Pro worth? Or should I just get the base model?
And secondly, what's with the Ender 4? Nobody is saying anything about it, is it not a good successor?

[Anonymous No.1478991]

>>1478987
Kinda just depends on if you want that magnetic build surface. If you're savvy you could probably make one yourself for the $70 extra the pro is over the base model.

As for the ender 4, despite the number the 4 was out long before the 3. Far as I've seen it's not great, most of the time a DIY corexy is gonna have some issues, especially one made for a budget.

[Anonymous No.1478999]

>>1478991
Ah, makes sense. Is the magnet thingy actually useful? It honestly sounds like a bit of a gimmick compared to good old glass.

That said there's an option to get it with an auto leveller, but since the IC and electronics are the same I assume I would be able to buy one and stick it onto the non-pro as well?

[Anonymous No.1479001]

well I started printing this as a meme, guy from last thread printed the OP right big tiddy doll and I thought the small tiddy version was better but it's turned into a fucking project

this bih is thicc tho

[Anonymous No.1479018]

>>1478999
Again it depends.

The idea is you pull the metal off and just flex it to get prints off. Couldn't say how well shit sticks to it but gluestick usually solves that for me.

Personally I have no issue using a chisel razor and a wooden mallet to get my prints off. That statement is exactly why people want those magnetic plates though.

The auto leveler included is a carbon clone of the original, stolen straight from the designer. So yes you can just add one of those as well.

[Anonymous No.1479022]

>>1479018
>The auto leveler included is a carbon clone of the original, stolen straight from the designer.
Nice, what's the original? Sorry, I'm new to all this.

Anyway, to summarize, there's little reason to buy the Pro unless I specifically want the magnet thingy, right? Time to order then

[Anonymous No.1479055]

>>1479022
It's called an EZABL designed by someone In the community. I haven't kept up with it in the last few mo this but last I heard creality stole and sold his design despite him being one of the guys that kept in contact with them for printer improvements. Supposedly they've made quite a cut into his living, or at least his ability to keep the cost of the unit low.

[Anonymous No.1479090]

Ender 3 vs ender 3 pro? I think Im gonna save the money and just buy the ender 3, unless the pro is actually worth it.

if I go with ender 3, what else should I buy to replace on the printer when I get it?

[Anonymous No.1479121]

>>1479055
Damn, he should look into legal action. If nothing else, he should put the word out that they're being chinese cunts; I doubt they'd try to sue him for defamation knowing they stole from him in the first place.
Just when I was starting to think they were one of the good chink companies.

>>1479090
Regular ender 3 + glass bed covers the basics. The printer comes with an extra .4 nozzle and a cleaning needle; you might wanna get a kit of various nozzle and needle sizes.
Once you get it be sure to print some mods from thingiverse—simple stuff like cable management, case fan cover, and a filament guide can go a long way. The a|s hero v2s is a really good fan duct you can print to replace the stock one; still uses the stock fans.
After that you might look into a PTFE bowden tube and better coupler to go on the extruder block. I hear Capricorn sells some good tubing and couplers. A silicone heat break cover to replace the fiberglass and kapton is neat, but aesthetic.

[Anonymous No.1479128]

>>1478843
>FILE DELETED

[Anonymous No.1479130]

>>1479121
Also buy some decent PLA if you're just starting out; save the cheap shit for later. Best to have known good filament when you're first troubleshooting and setting up a printer.

>>1479128
Aw shit son, had a feeling that might happen.
F

[Anonymous No.1479138]

>>1479121
Copyright and intellectual property laws aren't international. He could sue someone in the US for doing it but just handing a lawyer some money and never talking to them again would be just a fruitful when China is involved.

[Anonymous No.1479144]

>>1479121
>>1479130

I went on amazon and this is what I have so far.

>Glass bed
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F16WPR5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A26BI19QRFB6PB&psc=1

>capricorn tubing
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A17LPQE2918TEJ&psc=1

>PLA Filament
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0ECR5I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

As for nozzles do you happen to have a recommendation on those? I think I might end up buying a cleaning kit like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Nozzle-Cleaning-Kit-Alternative/dp/B0797XV8ZK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539308417&sr=8-4&keywords=3d+printer+nozzles+cleaning+kit

[Anonymous No.1479155]

>>1479144
Dunno how well the creality glass works, doesn't that have some kind of texture on it?
I just got a sheet of borosilicate when I got mine, in hindsight it was actually a bit pricey but it fits perfectly and has yet to get a single scratch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6J92KB

These are the nozzles and cleaning kit I got:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075487F63
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C79C9X6
The nozzles are fairly cheap quality but I've never had a problem. And the needles are within 0.02mm or so accuracy, tending towards being slightly under size iirc.
Also, the tweezers in that cleaning kit are actually good as fuck. I use them for soldering.

If you plan on printing abrasives get a hardened nozzle:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CGCBPLN

[Anonymous No.1479167]

How is that ender 3 clone that has dual extrution? Same price as ender 3 pro.

[Anonymous No.1479171]

A couple days ago I switched to a glass bed and haven't been able to get a good print since. Everything I print is curling badly, up to 3mm above the glass on prints that don't detach, and in many cases curling so badly it ends up detaching. Pic related.

I have a Monoprice Maker Select v2.1. Prior to this I had the original heated bed with buildtak (or the supplied buildtak-like surface), and had no out of the ordinary adhesion problems (levelling, bad filament, etc). The original heated bed had too low resistance, and burnt out the connector on the original board. Monoprice sent me a replacement for the board and the bed (their customer service is great if you call and talk to the 3d printer department). Because the MOSFET I ordered arrived before the bed I used the bad bed with the MOSFET until I had a chance to put the new one in earlier this week.

I tried bare glass (once, no luck with adhesion) then moved on to elmers purple glue stick, then elmers washable glue applied with a razor blade. Both elmers varieties looked good initially, but started curling at the back left corner first with the adjacent corners following. I have tried .1mm, .08mm, .06mm gap when levelling (I use feeler gauges), 0, 50, 55, 60, 65 degree C bed temps (60 was my norm before), and 195, 200, 210 degree C hot end temps (200 was perfect before) printing two different brands of PLA in three different colors total. All with the same result. The only difference is smaller

I'm at a loss for what to try next. Since a lot of you are printing on glass and advocate for it, I'm hoping you may have some suggestions.

TL;DR: Why am I getting curling on my new glass bed?

[Anonymous No.1479181]

>>1479171
Didn't finish typing: The only difference is smaller prints like pic related detach completely while larger prints curl up significantly on the corners, but what does not curl is enough to keep the entire print stuck well enough to finish.

In pic related the yellow is one of the larger prints that finished, but you can see the extreme curling. The pink is the only other time i had this problem which was nearly a year ago when I got some cheap wet filament and may have had the bed heat too high. I also had worse cooling then than I do now.

I would suspect the filament, but one roll is only a week or two old and all we kept in plastic ziplock bags with water absorbing packs. PLA curling normally is due to heat, but I've not had any problems with my hotend and part cooling prior to the glass surface change, and the 0 degree bed had the same curling problem.

[Anonymous No.1479190]

>>1479155

Thank you anon, I thought it was the non texture glass..

[Anonymous No.1479267]

>>1479128
Oh well.

[Anonymous No.1479272]

>>1479181
Use a brim

[Anonymous No.1479273]

>>1479181
>>1479272
Also, that double sided tape with an air gap like that means your heat transfer to the glass is going to be really poor.

[Anonymous No.1479279]

messed up the paint as fucking usual

[Anonymous No.1479282]

>>1479181
Your curling is likely caused by a draught. Find a way to shield the print surface or better yet build an enclosure.

[Anonymous No.1479289]

>>1478437
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2857666
seemed closest to an aneros, vapour smoothed

[Anonymous No.1479291]

I recently started printing bigger prints than normal and I've always had trouble getting good bed adhesion but now I'm have a lot of trouble getting the print off the bed. Anyidas of how to make it let go when it's finished?

[Anonymous No.1479295]

>>1479181
Just how thick is that glass man, and is that double sided tape? Just hold it in place with clamps like any normal human being, more contact area with the original bed == better heat distribution.
I'm using a 2mm glass I cut out of a $1 photo frame and it works wonders but then again I only print with PLA

[Anonymous No.1479298]

>>1479291
leting it cool down to room temp works for me.

[Anonymous No.1479306]

>>1479291
seen people keep 50/50 water alcohol in a spray bottle and just giving it a spray, the evaporation cools it quickly and makes it pretty much pop off the bed
obviously bad idea if you are using abs

[Anonymous No.1479311]

First timelapse and obviously I mess up the orientation.

[Anonymous No.1479317]

I want to strap a 2W laser to my nozzle head to make the printer double as a laser engraver.
Since 2w aren't shit and no heating will be going on during engraving then the psu won't even break a sweat, i can use gcode to move the laser, but one thing i don't know how to do is how to connnect the laser so that the gcode can vary its output during enrgaving? the the gcode will need to be able to turn it on, off or on just to 50% etc... so where in the printer could i do this?
the problem is that i don't want to affect the 3d printing functionality so i can't just rip out some wires and plug in the laser

[Anonymous No.1479322]

>>1479317
depends on whether the laser has its own output controller (pwm etc) or if you just adjust the voltage, could look at using the hotend power supply and just vary the 'temperature'

[Anonymous No.1479326]

>>1479322
It comes with a control board.
It says 0V on 5V off, but what i don't know is if it can only be ON and OFF or if you can say supply 2.5V and get 50% laser strength
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-5w-high-power-450NM-focusing-blue-laser-module-laser-engraving-and-cutting-TTL-module-2500mw/32790785641.html

[Anonymous No.1479338]

>>1479326
definately looks variable, could be a fun project, have seen cnc conversions so laser must be possible

[Anonymous No.1479356]

>>1479338
https://www.instructables.com/id/Convert-a-3D-PRINTER-to-LASER-ENGRAVER-Under-40/
>Now simply go to: Extensions -> generate laser G-code -> J Tech... and set the laser on/off commands to M106 which is the command for turning on and off the fan port on which we connected our laser.

[Anonymous No.1479359]

>>1479356
cool, although this one is just on/off, probably good enough to start, then you can figure out power control later using the heater supply or something else

[Anonymous No.1479537]

Is it possible to regulate fan speed of the hot end fan or of the print cooling fan in gcode? It can be either one of them, but i need it to be able to go from 0v to max fan voltage (12)

[Anonymous No.1479556]

>>1479537
that will be the print cooling fan. you won't get 0-12v but 12Vpwm though

[Anonymous No.1479574]

>>1479272
>>1479273
I could try a brim, and I thought about it, but this is very much a curling issue not an adhesion issue. the curling force is enough to pull away still after 1-3mm worth of layers have been printed. I am doubtful that will do the trick, but it won't hurt to try. Is having to print with a brim to prevent curling the norm when using glass?

>>1479273
>>1479295
That is silicone heat sink pad. It is designed for heat transfer to heat sinks, so it's conductivity is going to be better than the clip-some-glass-to-a-warped-bed that most glass users here are doing. The heat sink pad is very slightly sticky, but not adhesive, so I can switch glass plates without having to bother with binder clips. This should allow me to pull the plate, let it cool while starting another print right away.

That being said, until I tried the 0 degree heat bed and got the exact same result, I thought maybe the glass was storing too much heat.

>>1479282
Good idea. I am printing PLA, so that shouldn't be an issue unless it was one hell of a draft. I did put up a spare glass plate to block the fan from my control box just in case. No change.

I'm going to try printing with a brim. In the meantime, would any anons who have success printing on glass care to share their setups? Temperatures, surface treatment, levelling distance, etc. I've working on gradually moving temps out from my known good settings with the previous buildtak bed. Is 200/60 degrees really off for printing PLA on glass with elmers glue?

Anyone else using heat sink pad under glass? Am I missing something or doing something very wrong?

[Anonymous No.1479671]

>>1479574
Yeah I used glass with a thermal pad and Elmer's purple glue stick, printed stuff at 60C bed for PLA and never had any issues, in fact I moved away from that setup because I was tired of breaking out the chisel to remove prints. I did 3 passes in a hatch pattern while the bed was nice and hot and then let it bake for a few minutes - the plate should look frosty. Every now and then wipe with iso and apply another layer of gluestick. When it gets gunky wash it in the sink with hot water.

Alternatively do like I did and buy a spring steel sheet from Buildtak and slap some PEI on it. I have it sitting on my thermal pad on the bed and magnets underneath. Flex build plates really are a huge convenience, I couldn't go back now.

[Anonymous No.1479762]

>>1479537
>>1479556
depending on how smooth the supply needs to be you could whack a few capacitors across it to get a smoothish voltage

[Anonymous No.1479802]

>>1479272
>>1479273
>>1479574
Tried a brim. It was just as I expected. Curled as bad as any of the rest.

>>1479671
Thank you for your response and info. You helped me realize that I was chasing temperatures when there was another source. Did you ever have any luck printing with your glass bed unheated? Also, could you clarify how the magnets are mounted? If am understanding your bed is built like this:
>PEI sheet
>felxible steel from buildtak
>thermal pad (same as the heatsink sheet I'm using, correct?)
>Heated bed (what material, if it matters?)
>magnets?

So I got my printer back to working at 95% with the new glass bed. I don't think the glass bed had anything to do with it, unless it has generally less adhesion than buildtak. I think the problem was a higher than normal filament temperature coming from the hotend. Caused by a combination of a poorly positioned bulb-type temperature sensor in the hotend (I recently rebuilt this and now suspect that the bulb might be floating in the heat block rather than actually touching the metal) and a much higher flow cooling fan (50mm blower from 40mm axial) with a gap leaking down onto the hot end. I suspect this combination had the actual filament temperature much higher than the reported hot end temperature which then made my part cooling inadequate. I replaced the upgraded fan with the original and am printing at 200/65 nearly as well as before. For the remaining for improvement I am looking at the hotend temperature sensor. Does anyone have any recommendations for moving to a threaded sensor? Can I just buy a threaded sensor and install it, or do I need to watch out for anything?

[Anonymous No.1479805]

>>1479802
Worthy of note is that the high flow extruder fan gave me no problems, when I first installed it before I had the clog that required the hotend rebuild, but the first mounting bracket I printed was when the clog appeared so it was imperfect and insecure. I replaced it with the original when I cleared the clog until I could print a better one. Then installed the properly printed part when I did the glass bed upgrade.

Hope my blogpost helps some of you when you get stuck on an issue.

[Anonymous No.1479824]

From what I have seen in this thread, some of you anons are running octoprint/octopi, I have a raspberry pi model 1 B collecting dust, and figured it would be perfect to get some use out of it, but with it being older rpi, is anyone having trouble running octopi on it? Or should I bite the bullet and purchase a newer raspberry pi?

[Anonymous No.1479862]

>>1479762
capacitator will turn 12V square wave into just 12V pernamently

[Anonymous No.1479864]

>>1479862
what makes you think that, you can look up various filter circuits that will turn a duty cycle into a voltage, start with a low pass filter
>>1479824
im running octopi on a v3, if nothing else its worth it for the built in wifi

[Anonymous No.1479865]

>>1479824
Nope model 1B is garbage. I tried it and bought a model 3B shortly after. The main problem is that once you use octoprint, the printer firmware is overridden so it's the rapsberry that feeds gcode commands directly to the printer. If the raspberry is too slow, whenever you open octoprint's web interface or the webcam stream (which are the main points of octoprint) it can't stream gcode reliably enough to the printer, the print stutters, and the prints are shit.

[Anonymous No.1479866]

>>1479824
look into the cancel objects plugin, shit has saved my prints so many times, if you print a few parts at the same time and one comes loose you can cancel just that part

[Anonymous No.1479950]

>>1479802
I used a shitty Makerbot with an unheated glass bed for a while - you didn't see that thing printing without blue tape. I wouldn't recommend it unless you have a good reason. If you're set on glass do purple gluestick or aquanet hairspray there will just be more maintenance/cleaning. I got tired of washing the sticky glue off the bottom of my prints and the white glue dust that scrapes off the glass.

Yeah that's basically it, the PEI is stuck to the sheet with double sided adhesive that usually comes with it. It sits on the white thermal pad and I just threw magnets in there. It's actually funny because the magnets have found their way caged in where each bearing mounts to the Y chassis because the 4 screws are long enough to box the magnets in when the steel sheet is off the plate. When you set it down the magnets jump to the bottom of the heatbed and hold the sheet down.

[Anonymous No.1479955]

>>1478843
Is there a reason why the ender 3 will never have prints adhere to the print bed? I've tried a number of things to get it to stick: I've tried using buildtak which worked for a while, but now doesn't, the replacement ender 3 stick beds didn't work at all, putting blue tape on the plastic surface included with the printer didn't work at all. I got a glass bed now and the bed wont even lower enough for the nozzle to not make grooves in the glass bed.

[Anonymous No.1479995]

Guys what went wrong here? I have an ender 3 with no mods

[Anonymous No.1479999]

>>1479995
Looks like a jam or a slipping extruder that cleared itself out

[Anonymous No.1480122]

>>1479995
extruder jam/clog
don't buy cheap filament kids

[Anonymous No.1480212]

I might as well post in this thread.

I've been printing with ABS for a while now and it's nowhere near as fussy or difficult as I was expecting.

[Anonymous No.1480215]

>>1480212
Got some funny business going on with the print there?

Also, general tips for someone who hasn't done much ABS before? Never tried it on my ender, only ever on the college printers.
Does ABS still have any use now that PETG is a thing?

[Anonymous No.1480216]

>>1480212
i only use abs when im intending on acetone smoothing it, the power required to keep the bed at 110° add up over a few 12 hour prints

[Anonymous No.1480332]

Broke a piece of acrylic on my new machine I'm building, so I had to dimension and draft a new part to replace it. Got within .01 mm on the drawing when getting all the dimensions together, so I'm pretty proud of myself.

[Anonymous No.1480335]

>>1480332
neato, you have a laser etch/cutter?

[Anonymous No.1480357]

>>1480215
>Does ABS still have any use now that PETG is a thing?

It sands really easily and it can be acetone smoothed.

[Anonymous No.1480386]

So apparently there are CNC addons for 3D printers. How utterly shit are they, considering a real CNC mill costs 4-5 digits? Or is it actually a cheap way to get a half-decent mill? I'm assuming they probably can't do metal or something though.

[Anonymous No.1480392]

>>1480386
usually a bad idea. FDM machines usually are designed to move fast and the only forces involved are innertia based. On a mill, even just a little desktop one you get cutting forces involved and you don't need all that much speed so they usually are screw driven on all axes and have beefier linear guides.

[Anonymous No.1480393]

>>1480386
Here's the problem: a CNC mill is leagues more rigid than a 3d printer. Even if you could mound a full sized spindle in a 3d printer somehow, the bit would twist all over the place due to frame flex whenever it encountered resistance. So those mountable spindles do work, they're just not particularly accurate (and I certainly wouldn't cut any metal with one).

[Anonymous No.1480401]

i want to get back on my makerbot clone after it collecting dust for a year.
to implent autolevel because this was always the biggest shit.
Apparently i need a board with bigger controller than the 1280
Is it wise to get a new board, maybe with trinamic drivers for a printer that old and semi shitty?
what boards are the go to these days?

[Anonymous No.1480422]

Why do I get these lines and how do I prevent them? Tried Googling.

The 'off time' is 6.5 seconds.

[Anonymous No.1480429]

Hey I'm trying to print an ender 3 filament guide https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932 for some reason it doesn't close in the middle it should be flat, I might be doing something wrong with the cura settings..

[Anonymous No.1480435]

>>1480401
Depends. How old is the printer? Do you know what autoleveling setup and controller board you want to get? Any other parts that need to be replaced? If all that adds up to more than the cost of a new printer, then get a new printer. They've improved a lot in the past few years, so even if it would cost more, the investment might be worth it.

>>1480429
Using cura? Enable the initial layer pattern setting and change it to lines instead of concentric.

Sometimes the concentric setting will leave odd gaps in a... concentric pattern.
I only use concentric for circular stuff or simple shapes like vases; cura has trouble generating concentric patterns for complex shapes, and printing on a glass bed highlights any imperfections with the first layer extruder path.

[Anonymous No.1480437]

>>1480435
its a replicator 2x chink clone from i think 2016
>Do you know what autoleveling setup and controller board you want to get?
im completely out of the loop
read some about sailfish offering it in software but who knows if sailfish is still the way to go

[Anonymous No.1480442]

>>1480435
Changing to lines fixed it. Thank you!

[Anonymous No.1480478]

>>1480422
hm, looks to irregular for Z-wobble. Maybe its retated to this:
http://projectsinterestsandetcetera.com/old-school-voltage-regulation-for-my-3d-printers-dlp-projector-to-eliminate-random-lines-in-3d-printouts/
btw what resin?

[Anonymous No.1480479]

>>1480422
hm, looks to irregular for Z-wobble. Maybe its related to this:
http://projectsinterestsandetcetera.com/old-school-voltage-regulation-for-my-3d-printers-dlp-projector-to-eliminate-random-lines-in-3d-printouts/
btw what resin?

[Anonymous No.1480503]

>>1480479
Using Monocure Rapid Clear, photon printer

[Anonymous No.1480504]

>>1480215
From left-to-right
1. Underextrusion
2. Underhang, that part prints front-face-down
3. Printed as several parts that pin together
4. Those are on the model itself.

ABS just requires an enclosure.

>>1480216
I avoid printing any longer than 5 hours at a time. Most of my printing is unattended.

[Anonymous No.1480568]

Anyone else make one time use throwaway prints? I make guides for holes some times.

[Anonymous No.1480596]

>>1480568
Yes. I've made a plug for a sewage system, guides to drill holes in tubes, and other jigs/fixtures which got "used up" or thrown away afterwards.

[Anonymous No.1480707]

>>1480335
Nope, that piece was printed. The original acrylic came from a kit, so I replaced it with a 3d printed piece from another printer I have.

[Anonymous No.1480741]

>>1480504
I do an overnight printing session then an away-at-work session

I make sure my fire alarm batteries are working

[Anonymous No.1480779]

>>1480707
oh, must be the lighting, theres no way the top layer looks that smooth on a 3dp
still, good work on the part, been meaning to get a decent set of calipers for a while

[Anonymous No.1480785]

>>1480779
I reccomend going to a pawn shop. I got a $150 eurocal digital vernier caliper for $35. Works great.

[Anonymous No.1480801]

>>1479802
I guess I spoke too soon. Pic related is my latest large print after a few successful smaller ones. I'm seeing some underextrusion so my plan is to get into the hotend and check out the thermistor position, switch to a new nozzle and check for clogs. I'll update after this.

>>1479950
Thanks again for the info. I'm set on glass for now because that's all I have for my bed build, but I like what you've done with yours and will probably move to that in the future. Sounds like an improvement all around with no real drawback and a straight swap for the glass.

[Anonymous No.1480913]

>>1480785
Ehh, YMMV. I'd be worried a pawn shop deal like that might be al clapped out unless I had a set of gauges with me to measure against (maybe it doesn't matter that much; +/-0.1mm on an FDM is tolerable spec).

[Anonymous No.1481001]

Just started printing with abs, used the same profile I use for pla (increased temp, brim rather than skirt, fan at 50% at layer 2) the results started out terrible, prints falling apart surface looking horrible but a few repeats with no profile changes and its getting better somehow.

Pic related is my most recent print, most of it looks good except this side, any ideas why just this side looks a bit dodgy?


(Printed on anet a8 in an enclosure at maybe 35°C)

[Anonymous No.1481010]

>>1481001
Pretty sure you are not supposed to use the fan at all for ABS. The fan is for quickly cooling the layer you just printed. Which is really good for PLA, but for ABS you want your print to cool as slowly as possible to prevent warping due to uneven cooling. This is why you use an enclosure (which are even heated sometimes, maybe a fan is good in this case?). Try without the fan. You're looking pretty close even with it.

[Anonymous No.1481017]

>>1481001
>>1481010
Seconding this, my prints have always turned out worse if I use a fan with ABS. If you don't have an enclosure, find a cardboard box and stick it on your printer. I'm serious, it works, and raises the temp inside and makes the prints better.

[Anonymous No.1481026]

>>1481010
The other sides look spot on, was wondering if there was a reason only the bottom half of this side was looking off, it goes back to its usual right at 'level change'

The enclosures probably at about 45° accidentally said 35 in the last post, I read that blowing hot air on an abs print can help you get sharper corners so I kept it on at 50% speed.

I'll try without, dont think it'll help as all other sides are fine but worth a shot

[Anonymous No.1481065]

>>1480568
Ive made quite a few of those things you use to make sure grout is even on corners and lines.

Not sure what theyre called.

[Anonymous No.1481260]

Can someone tell me the distance between the coupler and stepper motor for the ender 3 ? I messed up and unscrewed the coupler now it's doing weird noises at the top maybe its trying to go further??

[Anonymous No.1481262]

>>1481260
I guess so, hold on.

[Anonymous No.1481263]

>>1481260
0.210" give or take a few thou

[Anonymous No.1481288]

>>1481260
>>1481263
Interesting, mine measures 0.3" even.
I'm not sure the distance is very important to the function of the printer, as the zero point is set by the z limit switch anyway. Are the two screws that hold the brass threaded coupler to the x arm too tight? You may need to loosen them, or if the issue is bad enough, look into shimming the z stepper.

[Anonymous No.1481303]

>>1481260
the distance shouldnt matter, i have undone mine before while installing dampers and it's still fine
is the noise coming from the brass thread on the gantry? try loosening the 2 screws a bit, they shjouldn't be tight

[Anonymous No.1481310]

a couple threads back someone printed a piston type thing to attach a dildo, anyone remember where the stl is? want to try the same thing but with an onaho

[Anonymous No.1481366]

>>1481303
>>1481288
Alright, I have raised my z switch because of the glass bed the sound comes when it touches the top of the frame, when I manually move to the top It does a rattling sound. How does the printer know when it's at the top? There's no switch to stop it is it hard coded to move a certain height?

[Anonymous No.1481368]

>>1481366
oh, glass bed would do it, its 250 high so if you raise the bed you're lowering the max height to 250 - glass height
you should be able to set the height in your slicer so it warns you if the print is too high
i guess you could ghetto rig it and drop a few washers in to space the top x member up the same amount as the glass

[Anonymous No.1481372]

Can someone tell me if there's some nuts underneath the screw brace ? 2 nuts jump off of it no idea where they go is it pic related ? are they important ?

[Anonymous No.1481373]

>>1481372
This is on an Ender 3

[Anonymous No.1481379]

>>1481372
no nuts, the brass insert itself is tapped
if youre talking about the washers then not sure if they are important, probably not, just without them the z axis will be lower than usual

[Anonymous No.1481382]

>>1481379
yeah I mean washers, I'll try to put them back it's gonna be a pain in the ass

[Anonymous No.1481394]

So where do you guys get your Enders from? The creality website? Also, should I get extra nozzles in addition to the 4mm one included?

[Anonymous No.1481395]

>>1481394
By which I meant 0.4mm obviously

[Anonymous No.1481513]

Is the CR-10 mini noticeably better than the Ender 3, or do you just pay for the larger print volume?
Also, is the ender 3 pro worth it? The website says it has a supposedly better power supply and "all the ender 3 upgrades", but I have no idea what upgrades it's talking about. The magnetic bed looks neat but it's like $20 while the Pro is about $70 extra so that still leaves $50 unaccounted for.

[Anonymous No.1481534]

Can anyone help a newbie out? Im doing my own research but these threads have helped immensely. What are the best materials/printer for prostethics like basically prosthetic hands? I would like to make them as a hobby and maybe eventually make a bionic one.

[Anonymous No.1481550]

>>1481534
>materials
Literally any cheap plastic you can feed the printer. If you're just going for things like prosthetics for kids or for proof of concept, any printer will do. If you're thinking of pro-grade designer/advanced prosthetics, you need to learn more about them in the first place and then get an industrial printer.

[Anonymous No.1481566]

>>1481394
I got mine from Banggood.

[Anonymous No.1481605]

Printed a tiny boat.

[Anonymous No.1481650]

>>1481550
Thanks for the info I appreciate it. Was just going to print open source stuff that have kits I can buy on a website I found. Thanks again

[Anonymous No.1481652]

>>1481605
Looks great man

[Anonymous No.1481664]

>>1481652
They are pretty soft without post curing, i sort of broke the wall because of that.

[Anonymous No.1481713]

>>1481664
Ah oh well, what are they printed on/with?

[Anonymous No.1481729]

>>1481605
I dont believe it!

[Anonymous No.1481810]

>>1480801
Reseated the thermistor, put in a new nozzle, put the original cold-end cooling on, levelled and put a print out with a slightly low corner (less well levelled than I had been in all previous iterations) and had no curling except the slightest bit where I had poor adhesion in the corner I neglected.

I'm still having the underextrusion I had in
>>1480801

The pink is the oldest filament I have, and is on the last 30% of the spool, so it could have absorbed enough moisture to be the cause, but I've noticed that since I replaced the teflon tube in my hotend (how I cleared the clog I mentioned earlier) and messed with my thermistor, I've had some leaking out of my nozzle that I didn't have before. I'm thinking my hotend is still running a little hot - hot enough that my filament is free flowing rather than just at the glass point at the heat block. I'd still like to try a screw in thermistor, but I'm wondering if I may have too much distance (or too little?) on either side of the heat break. Anyone have any suggestions for this on a mk10?

I'll post a latest print pic if anyone is following along and really interested.

[Anonymous No.1481812]

>>1481065
Tile spacers? That's one of the things I thought would would help my printer pay for itself when I was first thinking about getting one. It's more than paid for itself, or is at least breaking even given the things I've been able to print instead of buy or have to run to the store for.

>>1480568
When I found Ikea Lack enclosure drilling guide and realized that I could save time and make my life easier by setting my printer to spit out a jig while I work on another project, it changed my idea on the usefulness on my printer entirely. It went from a plastic garbage maker to a legitimate tool on my workbench.

[Anonymous No.1481824]

>>1481713
Anycubic Photon.

>>1481729
Have you not seen a boat out of the water?

[Anonymous No.1481825]

>>1481513
Nobody?

[Anonymous No.1481829]

>>1481825
>is ender pro worth it
pretty sure people were talking about it last thread, check it out
pretty sure the consensus was: the upgrades dont help with print quality but its good value, if you were to buy the ender 3 then buy the upgrades separately you'd pay quite a bit more than just getting the pro

[Anonymous No.1481831]

>>1481829
Thanks, I'll check out last thread. But if the upgrades don't help with print quality, what purpose do they serve?

[Anonymous No.1481834]

>>1481831
i think they are mainly to make it easier to use
the ender 3 has notoriously bad quality control and its pretty rare to get a machine that works without having to adjust a bunch of shit first
on mine even the factory assembled parts like the base/y-axis needed to be completely rebuilt, belt over tensioned, roller wheels too loose etc

the pro supposedly improves this, and you get a magnetic bed which is ok i guess, the non-pro comes with a horrible removable bed that comes with literally 4 paper clips to hold it on and they keep getting knocked off by the hot end, the bed warps and the surface bubbles and comes unglued but hey, it works

[Anonymous No.1481842]

>>1481834
That actually sounds useful, nice. Do you know whether I can swap between the magnetic and glass beds at will if I get both?

Also I didn't find anything last thread, but I haven't checked the archive for threads before that yet.

[Anonymous No.1481843]

>>1481842
yeah pretty sure you can swap to glass, its just got the standard metal bed with a magnetic build plate
damn, the previous previous thread dropped off the archive
I think even with the magnetic build plate the bed might still be warped so you'll either want glass or marlin for mesh leveling.. im using marlin on mine, works fine although i need to order an auto bed leveler because it takes 5 minutes every time it comes off level

[Anonymous No.1481847]

>ender 3 uses MK10 extruder
>everything I see says MK10 and MK8 nozzles have completely different threads and aren't compatible at all
>creality only seems to sell MK8 nozzles
>"hey guys just double checking that you don't carry any MK10 nozzles for your Ender 3?"
>"Dear customer, so sorry for that we don't sell MK10 nozzles. But the nozzles we sell can be used in Emder-3:)"
I mean I'll get the nozzles of aliexpress or even amazon or whatever, that's no problem at all. But I can't help but wonder what the fuck did they mean by this?

>>1481843
Cheers mate, thanks for all the info.

[Anonymous No.1481848]

It's printing lines again around the same area. Tried increasing the 'off' time to 8 seconds, no real difference.

It's not the line voltage as lines appear around the same area. Must be something within the printer.

Thinking of changing the print angle so the adheison area is smaller.

[Anonymous No.1481858]

if this comes loose while im asleep i'll lose my shit, almost out of abs and filament takes 5 weeks to arrive from aliexpress

[Anonymous No.1481863]

>>1481848
wierd, maybe let it travel the whole z-distance dry while you touch the slide and try to feel any irregularities.

[Anonymous No.1481874]

>>1481858
You wanna decrease your travel speeds if youre having problems with parts coming loose

[Anonymous No.1481877]

>>1481874
>You wanna decrease your travel speeds if you're having problems with parts coming loose

I've read that somewhere before. Hmm, OH YEAH, it's in my Harley manual.

[Anonymous No.1481878]

>made a one-off chamber flag for customer
>customer wants 1000 of them
>3D-printing costs too much
>regular molding costs too much
>they're seriously considering having an injection mold made
>it'll cost 3-4K EUR
>and it's all based on that one prototype you made
How do I deal with the possibility this may all go horribly, horribly wrong? What if I fucked up that one measurement? Or the new material doesn't hold up?

[Anonymous No.1481879]

>>1481877
It's funny because it's true.

[Anonymous No.1481897]

>>1481848
Z screw?

[Anonymous No.1481910]

>>1481878
>3d printing costs too much
dude either your design is shit or something else is wrong, printing a thousand little slips of plastic shouldn't really take more than a week.

[Anonymous No.1481912]

>>1481910
29 minutes each, let's round that to half an hour. That means 500 hours of print time, or about 3 weeks on a single printer. I don't have a printer to myself, which means either buying one and not making a profit, or waiting untill Christmas so I can use the Ultimakers at my uni.

Problem is we want them to jam into the chamber, hence the tri-plug thingy.

[Anonymous No.1481917]

>>1481912
dude why don't you have a printer in this day and age? they cost like $200
also, make the design so that it can be printed completely flat, 15 or so layers thick, this way they'll be stronger and faster to print.

[Anonymous No.1481925]

>>1481917
Because why bother buying one when I can always access those UMs? I can print for up to two days without anyone asking questions, I don't even need to pay, and often I can just scrounge leftover filament. It's free 3D-printing, man.

Can't make it flat, because then I need to put the flag in line with the tapered part that needs to jam into the chamber, and then the flag itself won't fit.

[Anonymous No.1481990]

I know this technically breaks the rules, but does anyone know of a source for models that used to be hosted on sexhop3d? I'm looking into 3d printing molds for casting and they appear to have had some good ones, but their site has been down for some time now. Also can anyone speak to the food safety of PLA smoothing products when used to cast silicone? I'd like to smooth out the edges of my mold prints, but i doubt my usual filler-primer+sanding approach will give a finish that I can safely cast food grade silicon against.

[Anonymous No.1481995]

>>1481810
Oozing will always occur, it's the nature of gravity and a semi-liquid substance. Plastic at glass transition is too cool to push through a nozzle.

>>1481858
Nigga there's so much better places to order cheap filament than from China. Pony up the extra 5 dollars and buy like literally anything else. I regularly get 1kg US made spools for like 10-15 USD through sales/boxes/grab bags. Makergeeks has meh customer service, it's getting better it seems, I get replies back if something is messed up, but their raptor PLA is amazing, I have some PETG as well but haven't printed much with it yet.

>>1481912
0.6mm nozzle, 0.4mm layer height, 2 shells no infill. Buy an a ender 3 for 180bucks and churn them out at probably 10/15min each. Redesign slightly to simplify and to accommodate the larger layer height and you might bring it down further. How experienced are you with printing? UM's are pretty user friendly, would you have the experience to set up your own printer and slicer settings?

Or give up and tell them to figure it out themselves. This is one of those points where you might look back and wish you had taken the plunge to get more personally involved in 3d printing.

[Anonymous No.1482005]

>>1481995
>0.6mm nozzle
You are like little baby, 0.8 or bust. I might even try 1.0 or 1.2 because that would get the time down even further.
>0.4mm layer height, 2 shells, no infill
A bigger nozzle wouldn't show up on final product - but this would. The ribs would defeat the purpose of the taper. 2 shells and no infill seems like a great way to end up with 300 broken chamber flags. I consider a product with layer height above 0.25mm to be prototype quality, not finished product, and without a good shell and infill I'm afraid they'll just break.

I've assembled my own 3D-printer as a school project, I give workshops for the UMs at my uni, and my minor is about 3D-printing a racecar with a printer larger than all other printers ITT combined. I know more than you.

[Anonymous No.1482025]

>>1481878
>>1481912
>regular molding costs too much
You sure about that? Those chamber flags look like they could be molded easily - a few kg of silicone would get you maybe 5-10 per batch, and there are polyurethane resins which you can de-mold after 20 minutes. They should work fine as chamber flags if you don't intentionally abuse them.

[Anonymous No.1482042]

>>1482025
Molding requires labor, which costs money.
>They should work fine as chamber flags if you don't intentionally abuse them.
Never, ever underestimate the stupidity of your customers.

[Anonymous No.1482051]

>>1482042
So, they're willing to shell out 3000+ Euro for injection molds as well as the time cost to run those machines, but not an extra few hundred for you to make some molds yourself? This sounds really fishy to me. Silicone molding, even for a batch of 1000, is cheaper than injection molding for something as simple as that

[Anonymous No.1482056]

>>1482051
They originally wanted 1000 standard chamber flags, which would then have a plastic plug put on them so they'd stick into a chamber. First quote they got: 4500 EUR.
My idea #1: run the schools UMs during Christmas break, but that's 500 hours of runtime - they might not want that.
My idea #2: buy my own UM2 (or Ender, or Creality, or Prusa, or whatever), just have that run for a month.
Problem with 3D-printing is that I need to buy 20 spools with my usual dealer for the custom color the customer needs, while I only need about 15 spools. Also, I'm worried the products will break more easily.
Idea #3: silicone molding. Same worry about breakage, and requires about 1, maybe 2 weeks of labor. Nevermind getting the color constant if you're mixing polyurethane with dyes for each batch.
Idea #4: design the chamber flag, prototype it with a 3D print and then outsource the whole shebang and have it injection molded. Probably the strongest end result, still cheaper than the original quote. Costumer is happy because reduced cost, I'm happy because I get to make profit over a couple hours work.

>Silicone molding, even for a batch of 1000, is cheaper than injection molding for something as simple as that
True.

[Anonymous No.1482057]

>>1481995
You're right about the glass transition temp. To be more specific about what I'm seeing: I remember having about 1cm of oozing at 200c which would curl up and stop. Now it seems everything below the heatbreak is emptying out in a straight much longer line.

[Anonymous No.1482060]

>>1482056
You can 3D print injection molds these days for small parts, might be worth looking into (machines like the Form 2 have special high-temp resin). Idea #4 sounds like the best bet, followed by #3; the colour issue could be solved with syringes (they work wonders for ratio mixing) and breakage would be entirely dependent on what resin you end up using

[Anonymous No.1482068]

>>1482060
Don't need to bother with printing an injection mold, our school has a 4-axis CNC mill (although I really only need a 2.5 gantry mill for this one piece mold) and a small Engel injection mold machine.
I could do it all by myself, but that's a couple weeks worth of work that I can't really combine with school. Also, there's no guarantee it'll go right: there's too many variables in the design and production. Much easier/safer to just design the definitive version, outsource it, receive products, and give them to the customer with a bill.

[Anonymous No.1482082]

>>1482005
Excellent, I'm glad you think you know so much while coming here and bitching about lacking a solution to the problem and asking for advice. Great - I've also built my printer basically from the ground up, and so have several other people here, but I'm not here to dick wag. Your post sounded uncertain about the viability of 3d printing, so I asked your experience.

Cool, I'm glad you already considered larger nozzles - I mentioned 0.6 because it's a good compromise between xy resolution and print speed. You'll want a reasonable nozzle for the lettering to come out well. Additionally, you won't see much of a dramatic reduction in print time by neglecting changing layer height. Reducing the total number of layers is much faster than printing the area of a layer slightly quicker, besides larger layers will usually create a stronger product. With a 0.6mm nozzle you'll probably have close to a 0.75mm layer width, or around 1.5mm shells. You'll be surprised how thick that actually feels, add a third shell if it makes you comfortable. At that point anything that would break a printed copy would break a injection molded one.

However I think you may be approaching this wrong, you should be selling the client on reproducibility and the value of being able to make changes quickly or custom versions easily, because that's where the real value in 3Dprinting is. If the client just wants a ton of identical parts, just tell them to injection mold and sell them rights to your model.

[Anonymous No.1482085]

>>1481897
Not sure what... I tried to check the screw for any bumps and can't feel or see any imperfections.

The prints come out with lines and crooked.

[Anonymous No.1482095]

>6 hours of printing and i get this
should i avoid cheap filament in the future or how do i avoid this?

[Anonymous No.1482097]

>>1482095
Make sure there's no drafts cooling the print or add an enclosure, turn off your fan, and slow down a little.

Or just don't use ABS.

[Anonymous No.1482105]

>>1482082
I probably sound uncertain and bitchy because I'm nervous - first time I've had a design job with a revenue above 1K. I'm nervous about everything going wrong.

>You'll want a reasonable nozzle for the lettering to come out well.
I might ditch the lettering to reduce print time. Gottagofast.

>besides larger layers will usually create a stronger product.
First thing we do with first years to get them introduced to 3D-printing is have them make a block for a Charpy v-notch test. Funny thing is they all come up with different print orientations and settings: obviously the ones printed standing up will fail immediately because of shear stress across layers (this kills the 3D-print). Second thing you notice is that prints with bigger layer heights fail sooner, so I'll cautiously disagree with you on that one.

With my 0.8 nozzle I usually stick to a 0.9-1.0mm wide track, but overlap them so the lines are still 0.8 apart. My prototypes use a 1.6mm shell like that, and I'll try a 2.4.
The prototypes I've printed so far are kinda thick, but not as much as I'd like. Complicating that is the fact that we don't have any 95-98 shore filament lying around, I'm stuck with either standard inflexible PLA/ABS/PET, or the 92 shore flexible stuff we have lying around - which does feel flimsy.

Client doesn't want 1000 different ones, they want 1000 identical ones - and the possibility to order new ones should they ever need them. 1000 units isn't really enough to compete with 3D-printing though, but I guess I just need to have faith in the printed parts' reliability.

I'm sorry if I come across as an asshole - I'm not infallable, and I do need advice and encouragement.

[Anonymous No.1482107]

>>1482095
had the same issues with cheap black abs when printing this meme doll, was really annoying to fix all the separated layers with acetone

[Anonymous No.1482137]

>>1481848
Maybe when the layer is peeled off the FEP film, the stage or the Z axis gets nudged and that offsets the print. Also see if the bumps occur at exact layers or not.

Also. Do you get strings of bubbles in your print?
I printed some test specimens and tiny (0.5mm diameter) line of bubbles are in the material. Wat could cause those? The resin was completely non bubbly after pouring.

>>1481878
>>1481912
This would be the right volume to create a silicone mold for epoxy casting. And that part is so simple you could even make a whole tree of them, so with a single pour you would get 10+ parts.

[Anonymous No.1482154]

>>1482107
that looks pretty cool though, in a freaky sci fi kinda way

[Anonymous No.1482164]

>>1482154
There's a whole group of people utterly devoted to this hobby. Nothing against the guy in this thread, but most of them are really weird dolls with quasi-realistic proportions but inflated heads. A lot of the pictures I've seen are the stuff of uneasy dreams, not quite nightmares, sunk deeply into Uncanny Valley. I think the term is "ball jointed doll" but I really don't want to go further down this path

[Anonymous No.1482168]

>>1481848
>>1482085
SLA or DLP? Maybe an inperfection in the mirror the laser's hitting / some sort of issue with the way the mask is getting displayed.

[Anonymous No.1482179]

>>1482107
god damn it I printed one too meme on that other guy who attempted it and had some sort of over extrusion issue >>1474121

found out if I run my air compressor while a print is going the compressor can cancel a print.. probably noise on the power line resetting a micro somewhere.. anyway that means I haven't been able to paint it so its just sitting on the bench collecting dust
still basically looks like this but with primer now >>1479001

[Anonymous No.1482186]

>>1482107
Where do I get the stl for this wonderful creation?
>>1482154
>>1482179

[Anonymous No.1482194]

>>1482186
its on thingiverse just search for "Medium Ball Jointed Girl"

[Anonymous No.1482197]

>>1482194
Thank you, of course cancerous makerbot forces you to make an account to view it.

[Anonymous No.1482233]

Does anyone know what causes this small bumps/strings on my print? Ender 3

[Anonymous No.1482235]

>>1482233
enable layer change retraction in your slicer, print speed is too slow so you're getting ooze when you're going up a layer

[Anonymous No.1482241]

>>1482235
Doesn't look like that would be the issue, if you look at the photo closer you'll see that they have artifacting from (possibly too much) retraction already and that those bumps don't look like layer changes

>>1482233
My guess would be inconsistent filament width or plastic sticking to the head then detaching, or maybe air bubbles

[Anonymous No.1482277]

>>1482137
>Maybe when the layer is peeled off the FEP film, the stage or the Z axis gets nudged and that offsets the print.

That sounds like the most probable cause now that I think of this. I printed a thin and tall shell of an object and it had no lines whatsoever. I think maybe the motor can't lift the heavy model off the bed without slipping.

>Also see if the bumps occur at exact layers or not.

They appear roughly around the same area in prints but not the exact layers.

>I printed some test specimens and tiny (0.5mm diameter) line of bubbles are in the material. Wat could cause those? The resin was completely non bubbly after pouring

No idea. I never have bubbles inside the print. Only outside if I used a nail light on a wet print. The water droplets act like lens.

>>1482168
>SLA or DLP?
SLA. It's a mobile LCD display and a UV LED instead of the back-light. It's a Photon printer.

Anyone knows a cheap powder printer? i'm sick of FDM and SLA. This is my second SLA printer, I had a Wanhao before which was even worse.

[Anonymous No.1482278]

>>1482277
Define "cheap"
https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/fuse-1/
I don't think you're going to get any sort of quality for lower than that, but I'd be happy to be proven wrong

[Anonymous No.1482284]

>>1482278
Thanks for the link.

If that's what it costs to get something that prints accurately then I'm willing to save up money. It's cheaper then overpriced Shapeways.

[Anonymous No.1482293]

I hate this shitty service. You can't upload anything with more then 12 polygons. It's a useless website.

[Anonymous No.1482294]

>>1482284
>overpriced Shapeways
I haven't ordered anything except one of their (discontinued) steels, raw sandstone, coloured sandstone, and silver, but they're "okay". I definitely wouldn't be able to afford making the steel products by myself (AFAIK), nor the silver for that low cost, but the colored Sandstone left a bad feeling in my mouth - I only got the color I ordered on the third time, I had to open a ticket twice about it.

I'm not liking where it's heading right now. They recently redesigned their site, and I'm definitely not the only one who doesn't like it. They're also increasing prices on cast metals and steel, again, and removed all transparency (you could at least see the part cost calculation before, but now it's a guessing game).

>>1482293
I've actually never had that specific error and I've uploaded things with absurd polycounts before - might be your internet connection or something unique to your model, I don't know. Most of the time it just drops the upload without notifying me or breaks the model.

If anyone knows of a better/cheaper way to get steel 3D printed, I'd love to know.

[Anonymous No.1482297]

>>1482294
>might be your internet connection
No, it has nothing to do with that. There's a limit of 64MB per model. There's a hack around this - you can upload your *.stl in a zip archive and they will only count the zip as 64MB not the size of the uncompressed model.

My files are 200-300 MB per piece because I use multi-resolution tools in Blender.

This artificial limitation is ridiculous. One would think that if you pay a pro service you can upload more detailed models. But no - you can print your model on a shitty FDM but if you try Shapeways the file is too big. Not to mention the retarded website won't always give you the actual reason why it crashed.

[Anonymous No.1482300]

>>1482297
It's not the fucking 90s anymore. The 64MB limit is too low.

[Anonymous No.1482302]

>>1482297
I'm genuinely curious what kind of manipulations you have to do to a model to break the 64mb limit, none of mine are even 1/10 of that after I export to STL after subdivision

[Anonymous No.1482304]

>>1482302
Correction, the largest file I can find is 60mb with too much useless geometry, and is 20mb cleaned up and unified

[Anonymous No.1482415]

>ender 3 being delivered tomorrow

The stupid part is, my other parts for my ender 3, just got charged to my card today, even though I place the order last Friday. Was hoping to have a fun weekend, working out the rough edges in the 3d printer.

[Anonymous No.1482433]

>>1482194
nyet, little ball jointed doll is best

[Anonymous No.1482446]

>>1482302
If you use modern modeling techniques you will eventually try multiresolution sculpting to add stuff such as fur and creases in clothing. You might also use a displacement texture. Also I imagine if you laser-scan something you will end up with meshes with the same level of detail.

Try making a cube and applying say a cloud texture to it as a dispacement modifier.

[Anonymous No.1482460]

How many volts is the Anycubic Photon power supply?

[Anonymous No.1482461]

>>1482095
ABS? wet filament? if it's wet find out the proper temperature and put it in the oven for a few hours. If it's ABS get an enclosure, a heated bed, and turn your fans off.

[Anonymous No.1482480]

>>1482095
clearly bad layer adhesion, you might need to raise the nozzle temp, slow print speed or increase extrusion speed

[Anonymous No.1482530]

>>1481848
Maybe this is happening because your layer height isnt matching the "magic numbers" of your z drive and it skips or overcompensates there.

[Anonymous No.1482552]

>>1482233
Looks like the z-seam set to random. Set it to sharpest angle

[Anonymous No.1482567]

Are there any good ways to improve the actual quality of final prints from an Ender 3 without spending the entire original cost of the printer? I've heard mixed things about the petsfang duct, and it seems like I'd need to buy an entirely new board to put in better stepper drivers. Will fancy trinamic drivers noticably improve my prints, or should I just stick with dialing in my calibration settings and accept that this is just part of buying the cheapest printer I could find?

[Anonymous No.1482679]

>>1482480
did just that before you posted and most problems are gona now. i now have abotu 2 layers with bubbles but thats possibly down to the filament being somewhat old. no problem tho cause i have to sand and acetonetreat it anyway

[Anonymous No.1482683]

>>1482567
There are miniature printing tutorials on youtube. If you haven't already, replace the bowden connectors; they don't grip the tube well enough and cause extrusion inconsistencies. The petsfang duct definitely makes an improvement over the stock cooler; specifically it's the improved cooling (cause by both duct and blower) that is responsible.

[Anonymous No.1482777]

>>1481605
Nice result! Will have to try this on Form2

[Anonymous No.1482886]

>>1481990
Have you considered using food safe epoxy (assuming this exists) to smooth the PLA before you mold the silicone?

>>1482051
Any suggestions on how to calculate time-cost?

[Anonymous No.1482897]

>>1481990
Maybe using chloroform solvent like the acetone vapor method on ABS would work. I've been planning on trying something like this myself, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

[Anonymous No.1482906]

>>1482886
>how to calculate time cost
How much time are you actively putting into whatever the project is? That x(at least minimum wage, plus a reasonable markup).
Then, what's the material and utilities cost? Add that.

That's pretty much it.

[Anonymous No.1482979]

>tfw noticed filament running low and decided to change it before going to bed but forgot
8 hours of printing nothing.

[Anonymous No.1483040]

>>1482979
>8 hours of printing nothing.
That's probably modern art, call it a piece about the futility of the struggle of life or some shit and you could graduate from art school

[Anonymous No.1483108]

I guess this is only a tangent related to 3D printing but have you guys ever converted any of your old printers to work with lasers? Was thinking I might try to buy a 5W laser and see if I could do some amateur wood engraving

[Anonymous No.1483130]

How do I avoid this? It's a screw hole so I'd like it to be sturdy. PLA 100% infill. Maybe concentric infill?
Sorry for the potato pic

[Anonymous No.1483135]

>>1483130
try setting the nozzle to a smaller size
ive got chink 0,4mm nozzles that actually don't work unless you use them as 0,3mm nozzles

[Anonymous No.1483137]

>>1483135
>setting the nozzle to a smaller size
*in the slicer settings

[Anonymous No.1483140]

>>1483130

I had the same issue. Increase wall line width a bit and/or slow down print speed.

[Anonymous No.1483192]

Holy shit. I UV cured my DLP prints and they are brittle as tits.
Are there more tough resins out there?

[Anonymous No.1483197]

PSA: If you want your glass bed to have zero chance of moving during print put some Best buy insignia brand thermal paste between
Comes in a big tube, turns into nearly super glue and transfers heat

[Anonymous No.1483208]

>>1483130
Make sure your design allows for things like holes. What I mean is that if the distance between the edge of the hole and the outside wall is 1.0mm while your nozzle is 0.4mm, you're going to have 2 layers and possibly a small gap instead of solid material, so bump it up to a 1.2mm thickness.

Another option I've seen used (but never tried it myself) is adding reinforcing design - in pic related, the slots are definitely too small to be printed, but they're wide enough that the extruder will follow the edge and create solid material farther out than it would for just a hole in the middle of a surface.

[Anonymous No.1483224]

>>1483108
I know jack about printing but I've seen manufacturers specifically sell laser addons for their printers. Usually it's like 0.5W tier but there might be 2-3W ones out there too

[Anonymous No.1483263]

What retraction distance and speed you guys using for the ender 3 ?
I'm using 5mm retraction distance and speed 40mm/s and this is the result l.

[Anonymous No.1483282]

>>1483208
Kudos on the reinforcing design, it's given me a few ideas to try.

>>1483263
That's the same setting I use, sometimes I'll vary between to 4-7mm to see if it helps any. I don't get as much stringing as your pic though, what speeds + temps are you using?

[Anonymous No.1483292]

My ender 3 showed up today, and so excited. I am waiting tomorrow to build it after I go to the movies.

I have a question. I will mostly be printing with PLA, and will it have any health issues if its in my bedroom with me doing prints? or should I put it in another room? I am planning to make a ikea lack enclosure. Something similar to pic related.

[Anonymous No.1483365]

So misumi has cheap as shit linear rods but their shaft supports and other junk to hold them in place are crazy expensive. Anyone know where I can get some cheap but decent supports and collars and shit? They're just screw-tightened clamps right? Why the hell are they so damn expensive!

[Anonymous No.1483370]

>>1483282
printing temperature 195º
printing temperature initial layer 195º
final printing temperature 180º
Build plate 70º

print speed 55 mm/s
Infill speed 55 mm/s
wall speed 27.5 mm/s
travel speed 120 mm/s

I have also Aoid printited Parts when traveling and avid supports when traveling enabled
travel avoid distance 0.625

Combing mode All

I'm not even mad, this is the best print I had
I was having blobs/pimples of plastic on the surface and marks on my prints it's now almost perfect.

[Anonymous No.1483410]

>>1481847
>what did they mean?
Basically... fuck you american pigdog, you buy anyway.

[Anonymous No.1483411]

>>1481878
This fag again? I thought you got this shit sorted?

[Anonymous No.1483421]

>>1483292
>I will mostly be printing with PLA, and will it have any health issues if its in my bedroom with me doing prints?
Depends on how much you print, 3d printing is still kinda new when it comes to that. If you ever print ABS
>or should I put it in another room?
Maybe have the ability to put it at two places? One in your room for regular stuff and another position for prints that are supposed to run for hours? I know it is all fun and interesting at the beginning, but it also can get quite annoying when you have to sit through hours of the printer running or when the print still needs an hour and you already want to sleep (or a person next to your room).
>I am planning to make a ikea lack enclosure. Something similar to pic related.
Install some HEPA filter that circulate the air in the case should help, but it cant get rid of everything of course.

[Anonymous No.1483441]

>>1483040
Call what art? There's nothing there.

[Anonymous No.1483443]

>>1483208
Cool idea, I like it.

[Anonymous No.1483446]

>>1483441
And that's what makes it art! You could put a plaque in front of an empty display. Or if you want to be fancy the installation could be a printer continuously printing something, but without any filament installed.

[Anonymous No.1483525]

>>1482886
>>1482897
Supposedly Amazing Clear Cast is food safe once applied, so I think I'm going to go with that. Now I just have to actually make a functioning mold and pour some silicone until I make something that isnt a monster. I'll post updates here if I ever get anywhere with this.

[Anonymous No.1483543]

>>1483525
Speaking of molding but in a different context - what do ppl use to touch-up their prints before creating molds?

I'm printing a prop gun and want to correct parts of the print where the printer messed up. Stuff like warping where you need to add some material then sand off the excess.

[Anonymous No.1483544]

>>1483543
I've heard Bondo is used a lot but I have no experience with it

[Anonymous No.1483546]

>>1483421
The fumes give some ppl permanent allergies. The immune system gets triggered. Not a good idea.

[Anonymous No.1483547]

>>1483544
Does it smell like cancer or is it tolerable? Heard of bondo but never used it.

[Anonymous No.1483574]

>>1483543
I've used automotive filler primer in the past. Spray a decent coat on, wait a day for it to dry and then sand, repeat as needed. It can give a really even finish to objects if you're willing to put in the time and practice. I think there are cosplay printing tutorials on stuff like this too. Can't say I've ever used a part like that for a mold, but it would probably be strong enough for at least a try.

[Anonymous No.1483613]

>>1483574
I've found using chalk paint is easier to apply/sand and you can sand it after a few hours. Also, you can paint inside without any odours.

[Anonymous No.1483690]

My ender 3 is doing some spooky breathing noises what do??

[Anonymous No.1483721]

Note to self: never try printing something that needs to fit together.

The print comes out consistently warped in same places. I suspect it's a problem with supports being too weak/missing in some places. The warping is likely the result of the algorithm generating supports being inaccurate. It shows that the software that comes with the device is equally as important as hardware.

Also when the printer lifts the print it takes the FEP film with it until it snaps back. The membrane is being plucked with every layer.

I really dream of a printer type that doesn't require supports.

Why can't someone make a powder printer that prints in powdered wax? That's good enough for creating molds in say gypsum. (silicone gets hot I think when it cures)

[Anonymous No.1483726]

>>1483721
What printer are you using?
>silicone gets hot I think when it cures
Not all - Oomoo 30 doesn't heat up (at least noticeably), but I forget if it's tin or platinum cured

[Anonymous No.1483834]

>>1483726
Anycubic Photon

[Anonymous No.1483840]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33697

If this is real I'm buying the parts to make it

[Anonymous No.1483842]

>>1483840
>discontinued 5 years ago
Good luck with that, I guess.

[Anonymous No.1483867]

>>1483721
I think it probably has more to do with temperature and the tension from pulling the layer away from the build plate. It's a known issue that prints will stretch by up to 10% on DLP printers due to that issue

[Anonymous No.1483892]

>>1481912
>which means either buying one and not making a profit
Your profit would be the printer itself. Just buy a Qidi X-one2 for $280. It will print your parts without issue and is the lowest budget print I can recommend to anyone.

>I can use the Ultimakers at my uni
Not for a project that involves you selling the printed items. You need to look up the terms and consequences attached to those printers.

Printers available for use a public libraries might have terms more compatible with your situation.

[Anonymous No.1483895]

>>1481912
>29 minutes each, let's round that to half an hour. That means 500 hours of print time, or about 3 weeks on a single printer.
Given the size estimate for those they won't take me more than 15 minutes to print.

That timeframe will go down if more than one is printed on the bed at a time. But worst case a quantity of 1,000 of those would be a total of 14 days of print time.

I have 7 printers. If I'm printing only those I can produce 1,000 of them in less than 4 days.

If you want to discuss pricing with me just let me know here and we can get the discussion started via disposable e-mail.

[e-mail]

[Anonymous No.1483917]

>>1483895
>timeframe will go down if more than one is printed at a time
I'm not sure where you got this idea from, the print time remains the same no matter how many you put on the bed. If anything, the time would actually increase since the print head has to move between parts each layer (adding a fraction of a second every time) instead of finishing one part then immediately going on to the next one as soon as you remove the previous print

[Anonymous No.1483950]

after seeing it in the last thread i printed one myself, what do you think?

[Anonymous No.1483954]

>>1483950
are the feet supposed to look like hooves?

[Anonymous No.1483956]

>>1483954
i think the creator of the model didnt know how to make feet

[Anonymous No.1483959]

>>1483956
can you manipulate the limbs? kinda want a mannequin for drawing shit

[Anonymous No.1483965]

>>1483959
you can, although its not the most posable, and it would definitely need a stand for anything but the most basic poses

[Anonymous No.1483971]

>>1483959
this might be more useful
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:101451

[Anonymous No.1483981]

>>1483840
>>1483842
The guy gave up on SLS and his current project is an inkjet printer.

Which makes me wonder why would a laser be so much harder to get right than a jet of binder. Will we ever have $200 desktop SLS printers or is that simply not possible with current technology?

[Anonymous No.1483986]

>>1483981
I think cost is the main factor - thin of it:
You take a 'run of the mill' ink-jet printer. Then you use the stepper motor used to advance the paper to move it along a rail. So you're mostly concerned with the mechanism used to move the Z axis.

[Anonymous No.1484000]

Has anyone had problems with Cura 3.5.1 not centering your prints?

I remade my printer profiles and everything but it always prints just slightly off centered...

[Anonymous No.1484024]

>>1483917
And how much time do you spend removing the parts and restarting the printer? If they only take 15 minutes each, you'll only get one printed in an entire night while you sleep.

[Anonymous No.1484052]

>>1483986
Not sure what you mean. The main difficulty of inkjet printing - like any powder printing - is that you need to have the two powder beds and a mechanism to reliably spread a coat of powder equal to your layer thickness between every layer. As far as I understand this is why FDM is common and cheap while inkjet isn't.

Meanwhile SLS seems to be yet another step up in difficulty from inkjet, and that's what I don't understand because it seems to me like you just replace the jetting nozzle with a laser and bam.

[Anonymous No.1484070]

>>1484052
I made a techical drawing, pic related.

So it would be basically a printer with sort of a foreskin thing filled with powder. The outer walls of the container would lower with every layer but the bottom wall stay in place.

[Anonymous No.1484072]

>>1484070

[Anonymous No.1484093]

>>1483981
An inkjet printer is boring. He should make a diy dye sub printer or reproduce ALPS's resin transfer MicroDry printing. Those are actually useful types of printing

[Anonymous No.1484095]

>>1484093
I am retarded, thought you meant a paper printer

[Anonymous No.1484137]

>>1484070
Yeah but like the principle is the exact same as for jetting printers, no?

[Anonymous No.1484164]

>>1484137
>jetting printers
Never heard of them before, googled it and yes I'm talking about the same thing. Would be great to have consumer ones.

[Anonymous No.1484207]

>>1484164
Indeed it would, and the guy making the Oasis thingy which started this entire discussion might make it a reality (or be a step towards it, if it works well enough then we'll still have to wait for chinks to copy it). But he started making an SLS one first and gave up in favour of converting his design to inkjet, hence me wondering what is it about lasers that makes it so much harder when the principle is the exact same.

[Anonymous No.1484219]

>>1484207
You could take a 2K Texas Instruments DMD die used for projectors and use it with a laser. In fact today projector light bulbs have been replaced lasers as they give more light and don't burn out as much.

I would settle for a projector that melts wax pellets and a desktop scanner on a Z-screw adding a layer of powder with every exposure.

[Anonymous No.1484241]

>>1483950
>>1483965
how did the backside come out?

[Anonymous No.1484334]

Assembled the model from SLA prints. It was a nightmare. I fixed the warping problem by using glue on both halves and sanding the seams. Because the resin is flexible to an extent I could bend it back.

The 3D modeling was way less time consuming. I have never done this before.

Will need to get some kind of wood filler (whatever that is) and fix up the smaller details. Then once that's done I will cast several copies so it doesn't fall apart and if I mess up the paint job I can try another cast.

[Anonymous No.1484396]

>>1484241
came out pretty round

[Anonymous No.1484403]

>>1484396
p-please sit on my face!

[Anonymous No.1484411]

>>1484000
cura doesn't really give a shit where the bed's edges are. It just spits out numbers referenced at 0 without regard to where 0 is.

Classic way to fix your problem is to move your end stops. This changes the 0 location

A software fix is to use M212, which adds an offset after a "home" command, effectively changing where 0 is relative to the endstop. M212 was implemented by printrbot and may not be in all firmwares

[Anonymous No.1484415]

>>1484411
G92 is like M212, except it isn't saved to flash. If you don't have M212, you can figure out the appropriate G92 and put it into your start-gcode

[Anonymous No.1484448]

Where do you guys get parts? Looking for bearing blocks, rod supports, etc.

[Anonymous No.1484464]

someone printed a piston type thing a few threads ago as a mecha dildo machine, anyone remember what stl it was?

[Anonymous No.1484473]

what'd you guys think of the upcoming prusa sl1?
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/719-original-prusa-sl1-kit.html

[Anonymous No.1484474]

>>1484473
It's going to be a total game changer, at least I hope. It should hopefully put more focus on home SLA printers and push forward the market. At least creality and anet will finally have something to clone in the SLA space

[Anonymous No.1484480]

>>1484473
So a slightly fancier Wanhao.

[Anonymous No.1484481]

>>1484474
>>1484473
i always wonder, wouldn't it be easier to commercialise an fdm/ chemical smoother hybrid machine? abs or similar filament is way cheaper than resin and the printer itself would be much cheaper to manufacture

i do quite a bit of abs/acetone smoothing now and the results I get are better than sla, there are zero layer lines, its a cheap easy process, the only problem is it requires my time to prepare the vapour, make sure my house doesnt catch on fire etc. should be easy enough to just print, then vapour in one machine

pic relate, smoothed part made for under $1 and about 15 minutes of my time

[Anonymous No.1484486]

>>1484480
Yep. It's not even a laser SLA like the moai. I don't know for what reason they're pricing it the way they are. The Prusa name I suppose

[Anonymous No.1484487]

>>1484481
>hybrid machine
If you're looking for hybrids then IIRC there was a company working on a printer + CNC combo. If you want true finish and precision then that's the only way to go. Unfortunately I think the CNC is only 3-axis so you won't get anything complex out of it.

[Anonymous No.1484488]

>>1481310
>>1484464
this? i think it was anon's personal design.
he didn't seem to link an stl file

[Anonymous No.1484490]

>>1484481
The level of detail with ABS will almost certainly be below that of an SLA machine, plus with overhangs and supports SLA might be better than FDM im some respects. That would be great for large pieces like props or cosplay, though.

[Anonymous No.1484492]

>>1484488
that looks like it
crap, i need it, it even has a gear reduction which is absolutely required for this application, more torque, less speed is ideal

[Anonymous No.1484493]

>>1479055
That EZABL just looks like an inductive sensor that comes prewired.

[Anonymous No.1484494]

>>1484490
depends on the print
the smoothed part has no layer lines at all but of course smoothing is going to reduce very small details in the print so it's not great if you need high accuracy and sharp corners

[Anonymous No.1484495]

>>1484492
That looks piss-easy do design once you've got the concept down, get Fusion 360 or something and it shouldn't take you more than an hour

[Anonymous No.1484497]

>>1484495
only 3d work i have done is autocad.. and that was probably 10 years ago, having an interesting meatbeating machine would be cool but my motivation to learn new software is pretty low
maybe one day my boner will make the fusion purchase for me

[Anonymous No.1484499]

>>1484497
>purchase
It's free. Unless you're planning to make the Dick-O-Matic 5000 and mass-produce it, Fusion 360 is free.

[Anonymous No.1484509]

>>1484334
Jesus

Try Bondo

[Anonymous No.1484536]

I can't level the ender 3 bed no matter what I do even with the glass bed from creality.
I'm heating the bed and doing the paper thing on all four corners until it scratches slightly the nozzle, when every corner seems right I try doing the same thing in the middle of the bed and it doesn't scratch the paper.

I'm thinking its the clips holding the glass in place I have 1 in each corner but idk
If I can't figure this out I'm trying the mesh bed leveling

[Anonymous No.1484537]

>>1484499
>Fusion 360 is free.
When they track you and your usage of the software, it's not free, it's more data points for the botnet. You are the product

[Anonymous No.1484548]

>>1484473

Shaping up to be a huge meme but maybe they'll come out with something more interesting than just a fancy Wanhao D7. Everyone's hoping for it.

[Anonymous No.1484549]

>>1484537
Oh boy, this again. OpenSCAD or FreeCAD are free as well if you're concerned about some other guy patenting your automatic dick-ripping machine

[Anonymous No.1484552]

>>1484548
Wasn't prusa design alway shit that falls apart i.e. a reference design others streamline and improve for themselves?

Before someone asks: do not buy WANHAO D7 - IT'S A PIECE OF SHIT. It's very poorly built.


Anyone knows the software used to generate the mesh in the pic? Looks like it checks the forces and generates a model to accommodate for them.

[Anonymous No.1484553]

Anyone used a Chinese business to print SLS models instead of Shapeways which is overpriced as hell?

[Anonymous No.1484556]

>>1484164
>Would be great to have consumer ones.
Yeah, right up until you have to take the part out and get plastic powder all over your living room.

[Anonymous No.1484559]

>>1484553
How does the price compare?

[Anonymous No.1484568]

What type of wood filler is best for fixing up 3D prints? Do you use water or epoxy-based?

[Anonymous No.1484569]

>>1484553
>>1484559
Didn't ask for a quote yet. Minimum order is 1 print:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-SLA-SLS-3d-printer-prototyping_60215289603.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normalList.123.89a8662aLlUnOn

[Anonymous No.1484585]

>>1484552
Fusion360 can do that

[Anonymous No.1484607]

you guys also puting tape on the ender 3 bed to level it up ?

[Anonymous No.1484627]

>>1484448
aliexpress seems to work alright
though that depends on your country's post service agreements with China
oh and it usually takes a few weeks before the stuff comes

[Anonymous No.1484663]

>>1484448
I like misumi for high quality stuff. They can actually be pretty competitive price wise for stuff like aluminum extrusions, but I don't exactly do super high precision or reliability work.

[Anonymous No.1484664]

>>1484536
You might have a warped frame, when you put it flat onto a countertop can you easily rock the printer back and forth by grapping the top crossbar? I had very little trouble leveling my bed, just used printer paper and the knobs, i didn't even bother checking the middle. Does it print at all? It's probably some larger problem if you're having significant problems with it. Post a picture of a first layer bed-leveling test print.

[Anonymous No.1484666]

>>1484000
That looks nice and leveled. That's the main thing. When I print stuff using my i3 it's total ghetto compared.

In Sli3r I think you can set boundaries. I don't know what you use with that printer type, I'm guessing it could have its own software.

[Anonymous No.1484668]

>>1483917
>I'm not sure where you got this idea from
If you print one part on the bed you now have the added time of the buildplate heating up, whatever auto-leveling routine the printer has (if any) and the cool-down time before you can remove it. And if your slicer has a minimum layer time setting it will lengthen the total print time for that one part on the bed.

Or you could divide all of the above time among several parts.

[Anonymous No.1484670]

>>1484627
Any specific shops you think are good? I see shops like adafruit also have some stuff that's probably from China. Is there any point in going straight from the source?

>>1484663
I took a look at them too but man the accessories like bearings and rod supports are expensive. Right now I'm thinking open build v-slots might be a good middle ground between Chinese and misumi but idk how good those wheels are.

[Anonymous No.1484671]

Havent printed anything in a while, what was the name of the program you prepared the prints with?

[Anonymous No.1484676]

>>1484671
Slic3r?

[Anonymous No.1484679]

>>1484671
Cura?

[Anonymous No.1484682]

>>1481878
I would take the *.stl file and send it to a random company on Alibaba.

Option 1. ask them for an injection mold then use the 3d print head to inject plastic into the mold

Option 2 Ask them to make 2000 molded copies for me.

Or if the customer can't wait and you have a back yard:

I would try to create a mold myself with plaster of paris.

Either from metal or using a high-temperature resistant silicone.

DESU i never tried this myself but that's the path I would try.

Pic related injection molding machine Alibaba listing. Prolly the print head is the same thing.

[Anonymous No.1484684]

>>1484682
Even from a Chinese company a single injection mold of any quality be a thousand to few thousand. And a 3d printer has nowhere near the pressure to fill out a mold. Hell 3d printers barely have like 2kg of force from the extruder

[Anonymous No.1484685]

>>1484684
What if you get buy just the mold and order the manual molding machine?

I make USB cables by 'injection molding' from a hot glue gun into a plastic template. (scraps of flat plastic glued together to form a mold)

[Anonymous No.1484686]

>>1484552

It's the opposite - Prusa's design for the i3 is open-source and most chinese sellers produce crappy corner-cutting versions. The only thing they streamline is cheapness - things like "this part that's normally aluminium is now brittle plexiglas". The original "to spec" Prusas that you can order from the official website are far more expensive.

Sometimes you see "reliable but also cheaper" derivatives such as the Ender3 that employ clever tricks like using aluminium extrusions as both the frame and as linear guides.

[Anonymous No.1484687]

>>1484685
You can try but a manual machine isn't cheap either. And thermoplastics cool pretty fast compared to hot glue, especially in a cold metal mold.

[Anonymous No.1484690]

>>1484686
The ender 3 isn't using a clever trick. Wheels are a somewhat common form of motion track and openbuilds has been making relatively low cost wheel based motion systems for years. Problem is extrusion isn't a precise method of making metal, but idk how that translate to 3d printers or if it matters at all. These arent exactly precision mills

[Anonymous No.1484692]

>>1484687
Isn't tin harder then ABS plastic but easy to melt and mold?

Why not take high-temeperature molding silicon and make a number of tin copies?

[Anonymous No.1484693]

>>1484692
https://hackaday.com/2017/08/09/silicone-molds-for-stove-top-metal-casting/

[Anonymous No.1484701]

>>1484690
id imagine a wheel assemble with extender screws has a lot more slop than a linear bearing of any kind.
you either give slop or kill the bearings in no time

[Anonymous No.1484712]

>>1484552
Abaqus

[Anonymous No.1484731]

>>1484473
Just like his FDM, it is overpriced, only normies will buy it.

>>1484480
You can say Photon

>>1484552
Its from a process called topology optimization.
Any decent finite element software could do it, some CAD software, i bet there are free options out there too.

>>1483950
Are you planning to post hot glue vids of that?

[Anonymous No.1484751]

Thoughts on buying a Monoprice Maker Ultimate (Re-badged Wanhao D6, Zortrax M200 clone) to convert it into an enclosed printer specifically for nylon (and maybe polycarbonate)?

[Anonymous No.1484753]

Spooky Halloween pumpkins freshly printed. My kid drew the faces and I modeled those on a few different designs. Good times

[Anonymous No.1484759]

>>1484753
Good quality print and finish.

>>1484751
>Wanhao D6
I owned a D7 and it was trash. I won't buy anything from them again.

[Anonymous No.1484789]

Anyone owning a Photon DLP. Can i pause a print, move the Z axis then resume the print from where it was stopped?

[Anonymous No.1484811]

>>1484789
>Photon DLP
I own a photon. You can't.

[Anonymous No.1484832]

>>1484759
D6 is FDM.

[Anonymous No.1484846]

>>1484671
A slicer

[Anonymous No.1484873]

Anyone buy parts from BST automation before? I see their name floated around some cnc forums but that might just be chink shilling

[Anonymous No.1484893]

>>1481729
I got that reference Anon. I'm still here with you.

[Anonymous No.1484896]

>>1484753
i like the little one the best

[Anonymous No.1484939]

Anycubic sale on aliexpress, photon for 400, i3 mega 200, Chiron 400, linear plus delta 200

[Anonymous No.1484950]

What filament is going to have the highest melting point possible. I need to print some hand guards for an AK. Will get hot.

[Anonymous No.1484981]

Hey guys, I have been messing with my ender 3, and the prints are slightly getting better, but I am wondering what I am doing wrong to produce these results? My temp for my bed is 60 celsius, and 205 on the nozzle, I decreased my fan from 100% to 80% that seemed to help with layer separation, but I think im still getting slight layer separations.. Doesn't feel too weak.

[Anonymous No.1484982]

>>1484950
some nylon i guess

[Anonymous No.1485007]

>>1484981
https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
We have no less than three troubleshooting guides in the sticky; use them. To me, it looks like you're running hotter than you say you are; check your thermistor, it might be mounted incorrectly (and giving a false reading). Double check your slicer's settings too, could be your filament diameter or extrusion multiplier's off for whatever reason.

[Anonymous No.1485010]

>>1484981
PLA or ABS?

[Anonymous No.1485013]

>>1485007
>_> my bad, I was checking out this troubleshooting guide here earlier that helped me previously.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#layer-separation-and-splitting

>>1485010
PLA

[Anonymous No.1485043]

How the fuck is my glass bent the one that came with my ender 3? I took it out and it wobbles are the clips bending the glass when its hot ?? I'm confused

[Anonymous No.1485062]

My filament keeps getting squashed and jammed between the extruder and the melt zone. If mostly happens with my old filaments. Is this a sign of moisture? Does drying out PLA make if stiffer?

[Anonymous No.1485074]

>>1484950
you can make some fiberglass inserts to go inside the printed grips

[Anonymous No.1485120]

>>1485043
The Chinese struggle to make flat glass. Find a local window merchant and get mirror glass cut to size

[Anonymous No.1485123]

>>1485120
Not him, but are there any other requirements for a good buildplate?
I currently have a heavily damaged 1000*6mm buildplate for a delta printer, and the manufcaturer is charging 500 EUR to replace it, so I'd love to find one cheaper nearby, especially considering shipping costs.

[Anonymous No.1485126]

>>1485123
No, I run mirror glass up to 100°C without issue. Beyond that or with extreme hot ends you might want to consider borosilicate but it's not a panacea, I've had 300×300mm PETG prints rip chunks out of borosilicate while mirror glass is fine.

[Anonymous No.1485128]

>>1485126
>I've had 300×300mm PETG prints rip chunks out of borosilicate while mirror glass is fine.
Same happened here with a 600*600mm PETG print, but it got stuck and some blithering idiot with a chisel took chunks out of our mirror.

[Anonymous No.1485141]

>>1484682
Benchtop injection-molding machines are stupid expensive for the severely limited capability that they have.

[Anonymous No.1485167]

>>1485043
Maybe you should replace it with aluminum plate? Itll probably be an improvement over Chinese glass

[Anonymous No.1485181]

>>1485167
Is aluminum better than glass for prints ? I was thinking about getting a cheap Ikea mirror

[Anonymous No.1485183]

>>1484950
Ultem, Peek.

[Anonymous No.1485225]

>>1485181
It's usually more of a thing for diy printers, especially the kind that need AC powered silicone heaters. But it works well with every kind of touch bed sensor and heats well, while glass is an insulator. But now I think most people opt for one of the specialty plastic print beds, for extremely high adhesion

[Anonymous No.1485227]

>>1484981
What the fuck kind of movements is your extruder making to get that kind of stringing off the front? Try using cura with the CR-10 profile. My ender 3 printed that exact part with no issues at all after bed leveling. Did you replace the bowden coupling on the extruder side? The default piece can come loose and cause clogs in the nozzle. If you pull the filament back out of the hot end and theres a big ugly clump on the end it could be a bad coupling. My guess would still be slicer settings though.

[Anonymous No.1485229]

>>1485043
What ender 3 comes with a glass plate? All I've ever seen is build tac on aluminum, or the removable magnetic plate on the ender 3 plus.

[Anonymous No.1485232]

>>1485229
yes I bought it with the ender 3

[Anonymous No.1485245]

>>1485229
You can get it plain or with a glass bed or with the cmagnet thingy. The pro already comes with cmagnet so you can get the glass plate on top and you get both that way

[Anonymous No.1485274]

>>1485227
I've been using cura, just the ender 3 profile. Idk the movements desu. I did notice my gear that pulls the filament into the tubing would skip, as if the the Bing isn't moving, maybe there is a clog. I'll find out when I get home.

[Anonymous No.1485310]

>>1485274
If your extruder is making a clicking noise and skipping then its stepper motor cable could be loose.

[Anonymous No.1485336]

China has cured my warpy bed troubles for less than £12 for a bltouch clone and a programmer, and even retained my sd card support and my buzzer.
Scary flashing the bootloader though because it always returns an error, but actually flashes successfully as I can update firmware over usb now, I thought I'd bricked it at first.

[Anonymous No.1485416]

>>1485310

Ok I did some more examinations.

X axis was crooked, and that was my fault, I left the rollers too loose, and I tighten it, and straighten back out, and when I lowered the x axis, I realized my print bed was so fucking un level, explains why my nozzle kept hitting in some parts of the print.

[Anonymous No.1485440]

Tried generic filler, it's too 'sandy'. I would prefer something more like modeling clay. It looks bad.

[Anonymous No.1485445]

>>1485440
"green stuff" is what figurine artists use for a lot of their work, you might be able to use that for filler - it can get pricey, but as you can see, very sharp and smooth results.

[Anonymous No.1485455]

>>1485445
Green stuff isn't particularly known for sharp details, it's better as a rough shaping clay because it's difficult to sand and turns out slightly gummy. Try magisculpt or apoxie sculpt. There's also apoxie paste, which may be better for filling in smaller or tighter areas, because a normal epoxy sculpting clay is very hard even when freshly kneaded.

There's also various tamiya pastes which may work better since they're meant for plastic models. The trade off for better workability is that they're more brittle than green stuff.

[Anonymous No.1485466]

>>1485455
>isn't known for sharp details
>rough shaping clay
You're kidding, right? Greenstuff is one of the most commonly used sculpting materials when making masters to send for casting. Take a good look at this image and the one I posted above, there's loads of sharp detail - you just have to have the proper tools and know how to work with it. I will concede that it's a bit gummy, though.

[Anonymous No.1485471]

>>1485466
>sharp details
>the sword is a complete mess
You can get detail when it's soft, you can do that with any epoxy clay. Magicsculpt and apoxie are so much easier to finish it's not even comparable. If you're working on anything mechanical that needs sharp angles and flat surfaces you should opt for something that sands and cuts better when cured.

[Anonymous No.1485508]

i feel like i am going to mess up the paint

[Anonymous No.1485542]

Well, Shapeways looks like it's continuing to dig itself a deeper hole. What are some good alternative sites with reasonable pricing? I know of but haven't used Sculpteo and i.materialise, any others?

[Anonymous No.1485544]

They seem to have *royally* fucked themselves over, I can definitely see people ditching the platform entirely (since most of their sales usually come from personal marketing or other sites)

[Anonymous No.1485545]

>>1485336
neato, im running marlin and have been manually mesh levelling but it keeps coming off level so just ordered a bltouch too

[Anonymous No.1485578]

>>1485545
How do you manually mesh level?

[Anonymous No.1485580]

>>1485578
its not enabled by default in marlin
>To get started with these features, edit your Configuration.h and enable both MANUAL_BED_LEVELING and MESH_BED_LEVELING
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Manual-Mesh-Bed-Leveling

[Anonymous No.1485591]

>>1485544
>>1485542
do you already have a printer? plating yourself isn't too hard, 1oz silver is pretty affordable (~$10) and would coat a good handful of small jewelry type items

[Anonymous No.1485595]

Made a puzzle cube with the only 3 colors I have. Caesar is not pleased.

[Anonymous No.1485638]

>>1479181
>>1479171

I use hairspray, cant print without and with it everything turns out great.

[Anonymous No.1485747]

>>1485591
There's no way I can get the detail they have with their printers, and even if I did, silver-coated plastic isn't really a good product. I also can't print steel, or do brass or bronze casting, or print coloured sandstone.

[Anonymous No.1485776]

>>1485545
When you install it, if you don't want to disturb the lcd connector you can solder a pin into the empty socket next to the capacitor and use that, pic related. Just remember to #define pin 29 instead of 27 in the firmware.
Godspeed anon.

[Anonymous No.1485789]

Just noticed the CR-10S Pro on the Creality website but can't find any reference to it elsewhere. It looks awfully like a CR-X except with only a single material feed and circled looks suspiciously like an auto leveling sensor.

Does anyone have any more information?

[Anonymous No.1485792]

>>1485747
There's always some warping and other distortions to accommodate for.

Now after owning several printers I realize they are only useful for previewing prints. The real printing needs to be done in SLA, otherwise the pieces won't fit together.

[Anonymous No.1485905]

>>1485776
cool thanks bruh, i'll give it a go

[Anonymous No.1486162]

>>1478843
>>buyfag buyers guide
>https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
What would you buy if you like the CR-10S, but have a bit of budget left (1000 USD total)? I could probably just buy a CR-10S5 but that's useless build volume, I'd rather have a few more features like autoleveling.

[Anonymous No.1486166]

Can someone tell me whats going on here?

I had a different chink filament before, ran out, and now I changed it to local supplier one, PLA. The quality overall seems better, but I can't get successful prints with it.

It seems to heap up on certain areas, making the layer all fucked. Is this a temp problem?

[Anonymous No.1486167]

any way to '' weld '' 2 pieces of PLA? A print fell over and I kinda got it back on the right place and continued the print because it was almost done but its brittle as fuck

[Anonymous No.1486174]

>>1486167
Friction stir welding.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pa2DoE3sirU

[Anonymous No.1486215]

>>1486167
>>1486174

It was too fucked, I'll reprint tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.1486217]

>>1486215
Use it for practicing welding then, it's a neato technique.

[Anonymous No.1486234]

I'm currently using a Microswiss hot end on a CR-10S and having a little trouble with PETG: any more than 2mm retraction results in clogging in long prints with lots of retractions but, at 2mm, it strings a lot. Is the E3D v6 any better at avoiding stringing or is it just something PETG does if you want to print hot enough to get good layer adhesion?

[Anonymous No.1486243]

>>1486166
might have to recalibrate extrusion (steps)?
you should also recalibrate for optimal temps when switching filaments, but not always necessary


also, have you calibrated your retraction?

[Anonymous No.1486244]

I'm going crazy trying to figure out why the fucking bed is not level even with fucking glass, adjusting the X axis and unscrewing the top frame now I removed the bed and the rail is not level.. Is this normal or what? This is an ender 3

[Anonymous No.1486248]

>>1486243
So for I've only levelled the bed and played with the chink filament that came with the unit. Now, with the different PLA, it doesnt work. It just seems to be very gluey/goopy and tends to blob up on layers.

How does one calibrates retraction/extrusion?

[Anonymous No.1486249]

>>1486248
extrusion
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y

for temp, eg.:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSOPsRiiOZk


calibrating for retraction might not be necessary in this case, doesn't look like stringing, i guess
if you use cura, though, try turning on coasting

[Anonymous No.1486254]

Opinion on the Duet 2 Wifi? Could get one for 100 bucks, from someone who never used it and stopped with 3d printing as a hobby. It would be for a Tronxy x5s.

[Anonymous No.1486257]

>>1486249
Thanks senpai, used Cura indeed.
Just a bit confused different PLA can act so different, but I'm gonna try out this shit tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.1486267]

>>1486244
Leveling is about getting the bed to an even distance from the nozzle across the entire bed, not getting it level relative to the table/ground. I use a feeler gauges, leveling so that, when the nozzle is above each screw a 0.04mm gauge passes under without touching the nozzle, a .06 just touches and springs back as it passes out from under and a .08 won't go between the nozzle and the bed. Do this at all 4 corner points using automated leveling and keep going around until you don't have to make any adjustments to get the aforementioned distance.

Alternatively, use a piece of paper, closing the gap until you can just feel the paper drag on the nozzle, use the cheapest paper you can get your hands on because more expensive papers tend to be smoother so it's harder to get a differentiation between smooth sliding and feeling the drag.

[Anonymous No.1486269]

>>1486244
>>1486267

You can also home and disable steppers, here's a handy video with awful music:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpEMUk5vzPY

[Anonymous No.1486423]

anyone else using stepper dampers? i put one on my z axis and i think it has been fucking my prints

[Anonymous No.1486627]

>>1486423
Yes, but why would you put one on your Z? Your Z doesn't really move that much.

[Anonymous No.1486814]

New thread Gents: >>1486813