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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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File: 32 KB, 500x395, scatola plexiglass portaconfetti.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
88773 No.88773 [Reply] [Original]

How the fuck do I cut 4mm thick plexiglass?
I tried the 'scribe' method (etched lines on it with a box cutter and then tried to break them on the edge of a table) but I only ended breaking up small pieces of it and cutting my hand.

>> No.88778

saw?

>> No.88781

wire saw, or better: solder with nail instead of soldering tip - heat it and slice plexiclass, then finish it with papersand or file

>> No.88783

I use a fretsaw with a fairly fine blade to cut plexiglas, works fine and looks good

>> No.88786

I've seen people use a blowtorch to give it the nice clear edge after the cut.

>> No.88799

fuck this shit is razor sharp
I got cut twice more while using the soldering iron

>> No.88802

Bandsaw. Failing that use a jigsaw then finish by hand with files and sanding blocks. Polish the edges with a flame like the other bloke said or use polishing compound and a block of mdf, works a treat.

>> No.88817

Laser cutters

>> No.88884

best way to cut Plexi is to use a table saw...preferably the Plexi still has the paper wrap on it to keep scratches to a minimum.

Sand the edges out, random orbit sanders work great here...180 rit is fine.

Treat the edge with a propane torch...but be careful, just get the edges warm enough to 'clear'...not melt!

I do this all the time...

>> No.88887

>>88884

flame polishing edges works well but will deform things slightly. Also, you can't glue a flame polished edge.
Not saying don't do it, just know what it's for.

Plexi takes a polish very well. For low end optics stuff (cutting waveguides and stuff) I polish it to 10,000 grit (typical fine plastic polisher grit) and it's perfectly clear again by then.

Seconding 'work it on a table saw'. As long as your blades are sharp and you don't bind (ie, you keep it cool) it works a lot like really dense plywood.

If you want to cut it on a jigsaw, use the packing tape trick.

>> No.88888

...and yeah, it will take and hold a razor edge, so pay attention to what you're doing.

BTW, it also mills/turns really well.

>> No.88890

>>88773
The scribe method works best if both pieces have some form of support, but the scribed area does not. When I do that, I clamp the piece to the table with the scribed area sticking over the edge by about 2mm. The part clamped to the table should have a piece of wood or other stiff material on top that is flush with the table. This is to keep the area around the scribe from bending too much.

The section you are going to snap off should also be clamped to something with a stiff, straight edge 2mm from the scribed area. You want all of the plastic supported and trapped between two pieces of material so it cannot bend anywhere except for the scribed area.

The other ways I've cut it by hand is using a coping saw or mini hack saw. You just have to sand your edge a bit before fire polishing.

Many plastics shops use a fine toothed table saw for straight cuts, and bandsaws for curves. A router can also be nice if you have a template.

>> No.88901

>>88888

nice get

>> No.88902

>>88901

Huh. I'd gotten 40000 and 444444 without noticing at the time too.

>> No.88948

>>88817

Bump for laser cutter. Find a Fab Lab near you or a college or arts group that has one.

>> No.88953

>>88948

Also, water-jet. I've been told, though not tried myself, that a water cutter produces cleaner edges that don't need tempering to avoid crazing.

>> No.88956

Take a circular saw and turn the blade around. Proceed to cut very slowly.

Or jigsaws, or bandsaw. Point it you need to cut slowly on a low speed so the heat doesn't build and melt the plastic. Also be sure to clear the chaff frequently.

>> No.88957

another vote for laser cutter, we have one at work and cut this sort of thing for shits and giggles..

It's the 2nd thing on my wishlist, after an ultimaker.

>> No.88961

>>88956
>Take a circular saw and turn the blade around. Proceed to cut very slowly.

God no. You're not cutting it, you're melting it! And good luck when bonded-on carbide teeth start popping off at 10,000 rpm.

Use the right blade (made for acrylic, Corian or if you can't get those, a hollow-ground plywood finishing blade) and use it properly.

>> No.88967

I managed to use the scribe method by making like 3mm deep scores with the soldering iron. It's slow and gives super shit edges, but it works.

>> No.88976

>>88961

Please don't use circular saws improperly. Please.

Used right one can be used cut 1/4" aluminum plate. Used wrong it spits teeth or ruptures in your hand.

>>88953

No experience yet with a waterjet but laser cutter makes sweet edges.

>> No.89094

I've had some success with using a jigsaw and continuous application of water to the area being cut to prevent melting.

>> No.89105

I've cut acrylic on a band saw and a table saw so i know that works fine, you just need to clean up the edges. The friction does cause it to melt but not the part just fray on the edges, use some sand paper then lick the edge with a flame till it goes clear if you want a nice edge.

>> No.89118
File: 138 KB, 800x600, w-4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
89118

>>89105

A proper cut should never melt. If it's melting, you're using the wrong blade, the blade is dull, or you're binding.

>>89094

You can cut up to ~3/4" thick on a jigsaw or scrollsaw if you use a sharp blade and the 'packing tape' trick.

Something about clear packing tape is highly lubricative to the cut. Put a piece of tape on the top and bottom of the piece you're cutting. Cut through the tape. Yes, it works. It's a well known tip and I use it myself.

>> No.89258

>>88799
>>88773
Dude! don't use your hand to smash it like hulk, use a hammer or the back end of a screwdriver, and cover the plastic with a towel or something when breaking it so the sharp edge won't be exposed when it breaks.

>> No.89260

I bought some acrylic a while back and the label actually recommended using a circular saw with a backwards plywood blade. I clamped it to a table and clamped a straightedge over it to guide the saw and had good results. For smaller pieces, I've used a dremel with a cutting wheel and made multiple light passes at a high speed, and also cut it by hand using a razor saw.

>> No.89738

>>89260
See, and all those fags yelling at me when I suggested that.

ITS RIGHT ON THE LABEL.

I'm not going do doubt the seasoned union carpenter who taught me that trick.