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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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854545 No.854545 [Reply] [Original]

What no welding thread? Well that dog just aint going to hunt! Share what you made when you were in "hurry up and wait mode" or bored in shop class and wanted to see what you could make with scrap.

>> No.854549
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Op here, i made this "chipping hammer" in class for some to do in class after i tested out of my smaw class. I only gave myself a hour to find the right scrap and fab it. I know it sucks but it was fun to make.

>> No.854962
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made a brake drum puller
12x50 flat bar and 4mm 6013s on AC

>> No.854971

Good drum puller because tough enough to beat the fuck out of freeing rusted drums.

There are many AC electrodes for good reason. I just scored several boxes of ESAB 7018AC and 6011 from a contractor who ordered it to weld quarry equipment so severely magnetized that DC arc blow made DC out of the question.

I have red, blue and yellow DC machines (they just keep showing up...) but recently bought an old industrial Hobart transformer 400 amp single phase welder for the welding leads and like the high OCV and arc quality so much I kept it instead of scrapping it out. When I run into a donor 3-phase DC welder I'll add an external rectifier since it's so easy to do.

>> No.854989
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thanks, it's good to know we're on the same wavelength.
nobody's going to go looking for a special puller without trying two big screwdrivers and a sledgehammer first.
therefore it's only going to be used by pissed-off mechanics who're already holding a sledgehammer.

are those esab 6011s labelled nu5/nufive?
6011 is almost unknown here in bongland so the only way to get some was to buy a 20kg can, and i can't even share them around, my mates inverters won't light them. only ever gotten them to run on old transformers with 80+ ocv. the arc is fierce as hell.

>> No.855005

What rod did you use for that drum puller? 6013?

>> No.855007
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shitty dragon

>> No.855026

phoenix blau 5/32 6013. 4mm E 42 0 RC/E in the new money.

even at 180 amps they don't penetrate for shit, but you get used to that and learn to work around it with joint prep. everything was vee'd out then welded on a slight uphill to keep from including slag.

>> No.855068
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Thanks for fuckin things up fucktard please go back to /b/ with the rest of the trap & scat lovers.

>> No.855073

180 amps with 5/32...damn you should have been blowing thru rod with good pen. Were you using a home unit like a tombstone or Hobart? Or a Industrial grade machine?

>> No.855164

oxford bantam, an old oil-cooled welder.

these particular 6013s will dig in to about 1/8 deep, so on 1/2 flat bar even if you weld both sides it won't meet in the middle without a bevel.

if i'd used 6011 instead it would have lightsabered through even without edge prep, but the weld bead looks like hammered dogshit and they cost the equivalent of $350 for a 40lb box. i don't reach for them unless it's a joint that can only be done open root.

>> No.855193

Question. If i want something welded together and then blend the weld by milling the weld. How much harder usually is the weld vs the material?

>> No.855200

Depends on your welding ability, but the weld should be just as strong as the original metal when done correctly

>> No.855201

The weld will be marginally harder than the steal, not impossible to machine though you just need to get under the weld scale (making sure to use plenty of coolant) it'll machine about the the same as 4140

>> No.855569

Best welding helmet?

>> No.855572

Who schooling should I get to make a decent living by welding?

>> No.855607

a cheap one.

>> No.855609

But I want some bitchin flames or busty chick on them

>> No.855611

What do you guys use to write your name on your tools? I don't want some faggot walking off with them on "accident".

>> No.855617

I use a miller elite, great helmet with lots of settings and a good sized lens

I've owned speedglass helmets before, they are good and take a beating, ended up loosing them off backs of work utes, they are pricey though.

if welding is your job don't buy a piece of shit/cheap helmet, but you prob already knew that.
if you just muck around in the garage then I guess a cheap one is ok, I'd still say get a fairly decent one, a lot of cheap shit won't work with tig, it will just flash on and off, unless you go full old school flip lens, but I'm well over them and auto is easier.

>> No.855626


Some really dark sunglasses and a big piece of cardboard will do you right.
China was built on that shit.

>> No.855629

Hehe, I kind of want to keep my sight. My skills aren't so hot as to weld by braille.

>> No.855631

Thanks for the recommendation. These look good.


>> No.855635


I was only half joking.
Pancake hoods are a thing and when you have to weld all day it beats wearing an auto darkening helmet.

>> No.855637
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yep, that's the new model, my workmate has that after I recommended my one, the way the lens clips in is better than mine but both have all the same settings
that's a pretty good price too, mine was $450NZD and I think my workmate paid the same, xmode is great if you work around people welding as it doesn't set yours off unless they're really close, also flashing lights on forklifts and scissor lifts will temporarily set off helmets sensors, but in x mode it doesn't.

the only thing I'd rate speedglass over the miller is the neutral shade, when you turn a speedglass on it sits at shade 3, pretty much sunglasses, really easy to look around.
miller is shade 4 so a wee bit darker but still good enough, plus all the top model speedglass helmets these days have a flip up lens, which would be really good, the ones I owned were before they came out.
you sure pay for speedglass though

>> No.856170

What's a minimum investment to get started with welding?

I'd really like to bodge myself together a personalized chair for my PC, but I'm not sure what'll be the best material.

>> No.856278
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aldi buzz box kit £35
5kg of high quality 2.5mm 6013s £25
115mm angle grinder & 3mm grinding disc £30

it's not good, but it's good enough. you can even skip the grinder if you've got a source of non-rusty scrap metal.

if you stick to the 1F, 2F and 1G positions by moving the work around, and choose bits of metal between 1.5mm and 4mm thick to join you'll be alright.

>> No.856796

Is it a bad idea for me to use 1/4'' aluminium plate for a general purpose welding bench? I ask since I can get a big piece for scrap price. What are opinions on thickness steel should I be using otherwise?

>> No.856797

This is for the bench top I should clarify.

>> No.856810

First time posting in /diy/ I work at a factory here in southern California welding diffusers for air conditioning it's usually either steel or aluminum sometimes we get stainless steel but it's pretty rare. The stuff I weld is somewhat thin and I'd like to buy a welder to keep at home and have a side job doing stuff like railings and fences we really need one for our driveway so I was thinking o that as a starting point. What kind of machines and tools do I need to do something like that? And what kind of welder should I buy? I prefer to use a gas one ad my friend lent me his electric and I didn't like it one bit.

>> No.856835

sorry anon some of your post didn't make sense.
post pictures of what you meant by gas and electric welders.

>> No.856871

he's talking about the energy the welders use. there's gas powered welders, electric powered welders, and diesel powered welders. diesels are the best but are really expensive. i have yet to use a gas welder but electric welders have worked fine for me.

>> No.856881

buy a pipe liner, cut out the front, throw a shellstrom flip up on it. Dont be a pussy

>> No.856914

Some MIG welders don't use any gas just electricity those are cheap to buy about sub 100$ and you can only use it 3 min before letting it cool down for about 7 to 10 minutes. What I meant by gas MIG welders are the ones that use argon for aluminum and compressed gas N.O.S. for steel I'll take a pic in a bit I'm at work right now

>> No.857057
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I actually made a little rotating table using a motor and a variable speed controller, makes light work of circular welds or pipework.

>> No.857059

get a miller bobcat . that way you can run it on diesel or propane. if you want to do gmaw or fcaw you need a wire feeder mig has to have a gas to work like co2 tri mix or what ever is need for the material. fcaw doesn't think of it as stick welding but with a spool of wire instead of individual electrodes. it will also do ac so you can do aluminum. you will also need a pipe vise a grinder. the welding unit with have outlets to power the grinder. a cutting torch would be usful to. don't forget all of your personal gear and tools. a monkey can fcaw or gmaw as long as the machine is set see this guys post >>856914 you will see what I mean. choose your gas for the material,fusion and penetration you need.im sure for steel argon or co2 or helium would be good nos hell no its a bomb. aluminum helium or argon or special mixes depending on the type of aluminum and penetration that you are after. along with material strength after welding.

>> No.857089

that's purty.

>> No.857099

Go with steel unless you weld only aluminum, can't tack aluminum to steel

>> No.857130

i just used paint marker for now, but i have seen others use engravers to more permanently label it

>> No.857134

i use a silver sharpie and just put my last name on it. works well and stands out.

>> No.857645

Two questions.
Is this the quality of your welds?
How much you making?

>> No.857749

>Is this the quality of your welds?
Yup they all pretty much come up the same assuming i don't mess up.

>How much you making?
Not enough, I'm in a temp job only on €10 per hour, i was on €16 a few months ago.

>> No.857864
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Hey welders, question for you:
How difficult is it to learn to weld aluminum, if i've never welded anything before?
How much should I expect to spend on quality equipment?

Background: I am gathering information for best way to DIY a hovercraft, and need to decide on the main load-bearing structure. The options seem to be either carbon/fiberglass, or possibly an aluminum tube carriage similar to pic related.

I want it to comfortably hold 6-8 people, so this would be a fairly large craft, about 20 feet long.

I've worked plenty with fiberglass before, so there's a certain comfort zone for me, but I suspect that aluminum would be easier to modify for unexpected issues during fabrication easier to repair repair, also probably stronger and save on weight for such a large craft.

The last option is to have someone else weld it for me, but then that's not very DIY-ish.

>> No.858202

>How difficult is it to learn to weld aluminum,
it's so easy a robot can do it blindfolded


>> No.858229

$4000 8 week class to become certified

worth it?

>> No.858254


That robot is using crazy specific welding parameters to do each of those welds. What anon was asking was how hard would it be for him to learn to weld aluminum.

The answer is, harder than steel because travel speed is much faster due to aluminum's much higher heat conductivity.

>> No.858320

It's a bit harder than welding other stuff, you will need a TIG welder capable of running on AC if you want things done right

>> No.858323

Agreed also aluminium develops an oxide layer meaning that and requires a lot more control over your weld pool, I wouldn't recommend for complete beginners

>> No.858383

Full time course? How many hours? What level of qualification? You know what their after-completion employment rate is? or any people that have completed the course? Got any employers available? What are you even looking to do here? Get industry employment? Promotion with other work you do? General self-improvement?

>> No.858406

Depends on the specifics of your situation. Mild steel welded with mild steel rod? Not much difference, but the recrystalization means that it doesn't cut as smoothly, so back off a bit. Hardenable alloys or dissimilar filler? Then things might get tricky.

If actual theft is a concern, engraver. Get the type with a reciprocating tungsten carbide tip.

Depends on what you need the bench for. Do you need to tack stuff to it? Will you be generating spatter (molten steel can embed itself in aluminum)? Do you need to prevent contamination (steel shavings can embed in aluminum and cause rust on stainless)? If you just need a heat-resistant surface, it's fine.

Aluminum is harder than steel for several reasons: it conducts heat much faster, it melts at a much lower temperature, and it oxidizes much more aggressively. So you need AC or DC+ to break up the oxide (unless you want to heliarc it) and a machine that affords a lot of control to handle cold starts and hot finishes. The usual answer is an AC tig machine, with the nicer ones doing a better job at greater startup cost. And of course, you should be plenty good before entrusting life or safety to your welds. Especially since aluminum can be prone to cracking. Make sure that the frame is properly engineered too.

>> No.858467

are you already employed as a welder?
are you paying with somebody else's money?
will you earn more with your new ticket?
if not, it's a fucking stupid idea

>> No.858502

where the fuck are you that 6013 is a common rod? I have never seen anything other then 6010/6011 or 7018 at work

>> No.858525

It also helps to pre heat the aluminum you are welding.

>> No.858575
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i'm in the UK. for brits 6013 is the default rod, if you go to our equivalent of home depot or tractor supply that's all they even stock

we have so many different blends of 6013 and they perform so differently that europe had to create ISO 2560 to tell them apart without using brand names. despite what america tells you, they're not all "sheet metal electrodes". we used to build ships with 6013 before wirefeed took over

we can get some 6010 and 7018 (no 6011 or 7018AC though) because the oil and gas industry inherited AWS/ASTM/ASME procedures from Standard Oil and they're stuck using excalibur and 5p+ until the end of time

>> No.858680
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Probably get a bit of flack for this but fuck it.

Anyone else stick tig while filling large gaps?

Smash flux off one rod

Turn amps up slightly

Feed it in behind your usual run, doubling the material going in, bridging the gap.

Works a charm

>> No.858806


I love you fucking rednecks.
If I'm ever in that situation and can't MIG for whatever reason I'll give it a go just for the laughs.

>> No.858814

eugh, that looks horrible.
I have put an electrode with the flux off it in a gap and MIG over it....
Standard in America is a 8 week course?
I'm from Australia, apprentice system so much better.

>> No.858817


When you were an apprentice did you ever have to drop clean pee for one of the journeymen?

>> No.858823

2-3 years ago, It was always threatened at one company i worked at. They only tested if you were suspicious.

>> No.858826


Over here whenever there's an accident and someone eats shit over it then everyone on the site has to drop pee.
If guys knew they were going to piss hot then they usually quit on the spot but one time this one old timer had me piss in a ziploc for him.

>> No.858830

Everyone? thats ridiculous, We have unions that bitch about that kind of stuff. Mines are heavily tested and most blokes i know get synthetic piss.

>> No.858859

Woah thanks god germany offers more personal rights than that

>> No.859434


Thanks guys! That's pretty much what I was expecting to hear.and don't worry, I'll likely do a smaller scale prototype first, that should give me plenty of room to practice.

>> No.859437

So I'm starting welding school in a little bit and I went to fuck around with a cheap MIG welder at a local makerspace. I like to think my beads were decent for a first timer and with that equipment, but I was wondering about the push vs pull thing.
I thought that pulling was easier, but pushing usually produces better welds, right?

Also another question for guys who know about the business. Would it be possible for me to "specialize" in stick welding in general? I love the simplicity of it and I figured it could net me more outside stuff since I'm more of an outdoors guy.

Thanks brehs.

>> No.859450

>push vs pull
Situational. Pulling gives better penetration and higher buildup, generally with a rougher appearance. Pushing gives a flatter, smoother bead, but it can fail to fuse well, particularly on thicker base material without preheat. Push vs. pull, angle, and weave patterns also affect how the puddle acts in out-of-position welds. With skill, proper fitup, and appropriate machine settings, either can work for most tasks*. As an aside, robot welders typically run at about 90 degrees, which has characteristics in between pushing and pulling.

*Spray-arc aluminum should be pushed to assure sufficient shielding gas coverage.

>"specialize" in stick welding in general
Depends on local demand, or how far you're willing to travel. Like you said, stick is used for outdoor work, so there's demand for stick welders on projects that need to be welded in the field, like pipelines, mining equipment, and whatnot. Outside of actual professional specialization, skill with stick is good to have in your toolbox because it can handle dirt well, operate outside / without gas tanks, and specialty rods are available in small amounts for odd jobs.

>> No.859624
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That makes me even more hype to start.

>> No.859643

no TIG welders here?

>> No.859644

Is TIG as hard as it looks?
I didn't try it yet but it looks intimidating as fuck.

>> No.859646

well, im not gonna lie. It is hard, but it's not THAT hard. takes a while getting used to feeding filler and managing the arc at the same time but when you get the hang of it you will love it, because the welds look so much better than other welding methods (in my opinion). It's really fun too, i would recommend trying it out if you have access to a TIG machine :-)

if you try it, i got three tips for you. 1- keep the filler material under the gas flow so it doesnt oxidize
2- have as short of an arc as you possibly can
3- feed filler as rhytmic as you can

>> No.859647
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one of my welds, this is walking the cup but whatever

>> No.859648

There'll be a whole module on TIG at school so I'll keep that in mind. Thanks brah.

It's true that TIG welds are sexy as fuck.

>> No.859653

no problem man :-) im sure you'll get the hang of it quickly, good luck

>> No.859655
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another, made on a positioner though so not very impressve. dont have any pictures of free hand it looks like. i dont like taking pictures when im working lol

>> No.859729

First good looking welding in this thread.

>> No.859750

that's the best weld I've ever seen that isnt robotic.

hey what kind of machine would you use to allign work pieces? say you needed a part to be perfectly concentric like a part for a lathe or whatever and you needed dat >0.001" accuracy?

>> No.859765

>dat >0.001" accuracy
That's pretty extreme for welding, especially since the pieces will probably move more than that from the welding itself. I'd weld up oversize pieces and machine them to final size if possible. If not, use a 4-jaw chuck and a wobble gauge to fine tune it after hand aligning to <.01" or so.

>> No.859766

a straight edge
how many more passes

>> No.859771

slag you drag hard wire you push. like the comment said pushing and pulling gives you a different penetration profile but with SMAW or FCAW you need to drag to avoid having slag inclusions in your weld

>> No.859815

>a straight edge
I think the question was about things like fitting a pipe to a flange rather than things you can align edge-to-edge like two same-size pipes.

>slag you drag hard wire you push
The question sounded like it was for solid wire only. But yes, drag for fluxed welding unless you're going vertical up.

>> No.860639

Thank you, this is not that hard actually since it's on a positioner so it just needs steady hands and consistent rod feeding.


only one pass on this, it's on a pipe and the flange just needs to be watertight. it's welded on the inside as well but with stick

>> No.861426

nice work anon, I hope I'm as good as that.