/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.797749]

How does /diy/ procede here? I'm trying to swap a micro USB connector and I've literraly spent an hour heating up different parts of the connector to no avail, help

[Anonymous No.797750]

If the pins are holding it in because you can't get the solder of all of them to melt at the same time, cut them off. Then desolder them later one by one.
Other than that, just heat it up more? Maybe add solder to increase heat transport?

[Anonymous No.797751]

>>797750
It's mostly the strud mounts on the side that are getting in my way, but cutting the pins is a fabulous idea

[Anonymous No.797752]

>>797749
What are you using to heat it? A hot air gun with a board preheater should do the trick.

[Anonymous No.797754]

>>797749
You can also try Chip Quik, an alloy that lowers the solder melting point.

[Anonymous No.797755]

>>797752
I'm using a gun shaped soldeing iron, one of those that heats in 40 seconds and literally goes red hot

[Anonymous No.797762]

>>797755
Well good luck with that.

[Anonymous No.797763]

>>797762
I'm looking up hot air guns with board preheters and It's bringing up this http://www.circuitspecialists.com/content/141533/csi853b+-0.jpg do I really need one of these?>>797752

[anus presley No.797785]

you should jam an X-acto knife under one side and twist to provide lifting force. this should lift off one side as you heat the solder. (you should have added extra solder to make it more malleable.) then repeat on the other side.

if you dont have an X-acto, you could plug in a sacrificial micro USB cable and use that to lift.

[Anonymous No.797789]

>>797785
With really tiny connectors you want to avoid using force if at all possible. The PCB traces to which the connector is secured are generally very narrow, and can be pretty easily lifted off the PCB. This kills the PCB.

Not sure if it would be a problem with this specific connector, but I'd really hesitate before yanking on the thing too hard.

[Anonymous No.797797]

> With really tiny connectors you want to avoid using force if at all possible.

but presumably, the dude has already cut off the tiny pins, so this is no longer a concern. BTW, an X-acto knife is also great for snapping off these pins, coz wire cutters wont fit. best place to cut is where the pins exit the connector body. just a little push downward should snap the pin.

[Anonymous No.797811]

>>797763
A preheater isn't absolutely necessary, but can help. It will also recude thermal stress on the board.

[Anonymous No.797882]

>>797763
No, but if you're not planning on doing it with air reflow, you will need an actual soldering iron.

The guns are only useful for soldering stuff 10-100 times the size of what you're trying to do.

It's possible to do SMD with a $10 15w iron, but it's fiddly. You'll want a solder pump, lead solder for diluting the lead-free solder that's there, tweezers for working with hot components, and desolder braid for doing the cover-the-pins-then-take-off-the-excess technique.

The great thing about this port is that you can align it using the non-signal-bearing retention pins at the side, and then solder the signal pins without worrying about it coming untacked.

[Anonymous No.797884]

>>797789
>>797785
Best way to lift them is, paradoxically, to add solder so you can use the same iron to heat every joint at once.

Then simply lift the component away, and take the solder off with a pump or braid.

[Anonymous No.797891]

It's much easier to fuck the board up with an iron than when using hot air.

[Anonymous No.797915]

du dis

[Anonymous No.799280]

>>797749
Fucking lg G3