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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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613304 No.613304 [Reply] [Original]

Remember ME??!

I resprayed my 300zx per advice obtained here with far superior results.

NOW....I've decided I had enough imperfections to warrant wet-sanding.

I sanded with 1200 grit and it's now super-smooth but also quite hazy and cloudy. What should I do now? quick! before I make a terrible mistake!

>> No.613308

I guess the question is:

How do I restore the shine?
Do I sand it with finer grit now and then clear coat?? Or spray another coat?

>> No.613311

>>613308
what i do is after final wet sand is applying buffing compound then polishing compound then a good quality paste or liquid wax. my favorite process is 3m performance scratch remover, 3m polishing compound then 3m performace wax. its expensive but its great.

or even before that do a final sand with 3000 with a thick interface pad on your sander then buff to a gloss. wet sand takes away the gloss and buff puts it back.

>> No.613312

>>613311

I have a Turtle Wax rubbing compound and polishing compound. So that should work for what you're saying

I can't use either of them before the clear coat, tho, right?

I just wet-sanded a small area with 2000grit and I can see the shine coming back. 2000 is the finest I have. Should I use the rubbing compound before clear coat??? Or should I just try my damndest with the 2000grit?

>> No.613317

>>613312
I assumed you were done with the clear coat, my apologies, 2000 grit should be fine then clear coat then do what I said.

>> No.613324
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613324

>>613317

awesome, thanks bra

>> No.613330

>>613304
you do not sand base coat bro. you can sand primer and clear. now to get it back looking nice youll have to sand to super high grit which means the clear will have nothing to grab onto.

>> No.613332

>>613330
what im getting at is you have to reshoot it

>> No.613357

>>613330
you can sand base coat as well if you have more than a coat, it also helps the clear coat stick a lot better and smoother.

>> No.613364

>>613330
>>613357

you guys just said opposite things

>> No.613379

>>613364
thats why it was a reply. many do not sand base but if you have 2000+ grit it will be fine, it doesn't make much of a difference. it's not going to ruin his paint job and the dullness is to be expected before the clear coat + buffing + polishing. For almost any car paint job you're free to sand any coat but the clear, as not only does it make it more even it also helps the next coat stick.

Although looking back I was just replying to the first statement of his sentance.
-OP sands base coat
>>613330
>do not sand base coat
>now to get it (base coat?) back to looking nice >sand

>> No.613380

I think some of us are missing important information from the previous discussion in the very least. Sprayed what? Eurothane? Clearcoat? Spraycan rustoleoum?

Your answer will depend entirely on what was sprayed. If its just a few coats of euro base coat then for the love of god sand it down with some 400-800 grit (people will argue) to give the clear something to grip. If you are spraying clearcoat then yea you have removed the imperfections with your 1200 but you need to move on to rubbing and polishing compounds with a orbital/polisher to get a shine. If you are spraying spraycan home depot red....then god help you because I cant.

>> No.613403

I'm using rustoleum oil-based enamel with my HVLP gun.

ok, so I've been out in the garage trying different things. I couldn't get a shine back into the base coat with the 2000grit paper. And I've read that clear coat will not magically bring back my color depth. So I need the base coat to be shiny, right?

I've moved on from the wet sanding to the turtle wax rubbing compound and I'm getting my shine back BIG TIME. Very deep color.

But now am I screwed for the clear coat? Can I still try to spray it on after rubbing compound?? What if I just clean the hell out of it with mineral spirits?

>> No.613568

>>613403
You might actually be screwed but I honestly dont know for sure. I only know euros but I do know that mixing certain paints (enamel based) with Euros (especially the harsh shit in clears) is a disaster waiting to happen. Your paint will wrinkle up and you will have a absolute clustefuck on your hands that will need to be blasted off and start over. The chems in the euro-clear will litterally eat up the enamels, which is why you dont typically mix your different manufactured paints.

If you are using oil based rusto and then throw on some spray can rusto you might be ok, might. Honestly I wouldnt even attempt it but thats because I stick to euro and water based airbrushing for my work. This is always way you do a practice panel before/durring your project, every project. Time can be of the essence for getting it right with euros but maybe not so much with the paint you are using, so you might have time to recreate your steps on a steel plate or plastic panel (test panel remember?) to see what the results look like before you mess with your car. Just do exactly what you tried and then continue with the clear or other test on the practice panel to see the results. Try to use the same substrate material as your project (metal, plastic, ect) for best testing.

Good luck.

>> No.613572

>>613304
You are supposed to paint and sand several times

>> No.613591

>>613304
Buff it, then polish it.

>> No.613592

>>613568
Why didn't you do >613317 like you said you would? Not one person here said to do rubbing compound then clear coat. I can't believe anyone without experience in painting would start with their car.

>> No.613683

>>613592

I did, but I was told that the clear coat cannot magically restore my color depth and it was completely gone with the 2000 grit.

I have to have deep color before clear coat, right?

>> No.613692

If you had listened to me and resprayed with tractor enamel and catalyst hardener, you wouldn't need clear, AND you'd be able to buff out scratches later on. You also wouldn't need to worry about your clear losing adhesion down the line.

If your clear is mixed properly, your basecoat doesn't need to be deep and shiny. Don't bother buffing your basecoat if you're just going to spray clear on it. The clear will wet it and adhere to the surface, giving you that deep color you're after. Rough it up slightly with 2000 grit and shoot the clear.

Do not use an epoxy-based clear with your rustoleum. I know rustoleum sells their own clear engineered for their shit, use that. I'm not sure if they manufacture a catalyst hardener for that, but use it if they do. Not only will your clear dry faster, but it will cure harder and survive longer.

>> No.613695

>>613683
>but I was told that the clear coat cannot magically restore my color depth
By whom? Because that's exactly what a clear coat CAN do.

You take any kind of paint that has been sanded or it's weathered and it's now paler than fresh from the tin, shoot clear on it and bingo, shine and depth of colour WILL be the result. It's not a chemical thing or anything like that, it's just something inherent to any kind of gloss coat.

You get exactly the same effect when you varnish wood: darker colour (deeper & more saturated) along with the gloss finish.

>> No.613704

>>613695
Yup. What you're doing is removing surface scattering with gloss, and refracting more color into your eyeball.

What's under the shiny surface isn't all that important. Though, if you're doing it right, the solvent of the clear is the same as the base coat and you get a nice chemical bond as well.

>> No.613713

>>613692
>>613695
>>613704

alllrighty, well, I didn't buff the whole thing. So I'll re-sand that area with the 2000 and try the clear. I do have the matching clear from rustoleum.

So this will really work, huh? It just seems like I will end up with a shiny sheen over a pale red color.

I'm gonna go out there and give it a shot now.

>> No.613773

K, so I've been finishing the 1200 grit wet-sanding around the rest of the car and I'm about to go back over the part I rubbed with the 2000 grit

but I've noticed that the rubbing compound is not dramatically smoother than the 2000 grit.

Is it simply the smoothness of the surface that will prevent me from spaying clear coat? Or is there something in the rubbing compound that will prevent the clear from sticking?

I would say the rubbing compound looks equivalent to, say, 2500 grit or 3000 grit.

>> No.613801

Just popping in to say that it looks like you did a fantastic job on laying paint. I don't see any low spots or orange peel in your wet sanded area! I'm sincerely impressed.

>> No.613866

>>613801

cool, thanks. I didn't think it looked that great, but this is my first attempt so I have no idea what it was supposed too look like

>> No.613895
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613895

>>613692
>not using a clear coat on a car

almost all metal paint NEEDS clear coat to complete the sealing of the surface otherwise the flakes / grain in the paint rubs and goes very uneven in color and looks like horse shit.

Normal gloss paints don't NEED a clear coat, but benefit from them immensely.

Don't overcomplicate shit. It's not a goddam tractor. Don't ghetto paint it like one. It's a car, and it's basic enough to paint.

>> No.613896

>>613773
paint just sticks better to rougher surfaces. if you use rubbing compound and then paint you may not see any difference, but down the road the job would not last as long and the paint would flake easier as it is not embedded as heavily into the coat below it.

>> No.613977

>>613713
>So this will really work, huh? It just seems like I will end up with a shiny sheen over a pale red color.
Yep, it really will work.

Simple way to preview the effect it just to wet down the sanded paint with water!

>> No.615045

>>613895
This is simply not true. Some automotive paints are in fact engineered to work without clear. They are called single-stage paints. For the better part of its history, the automotive industry did not use epoxy paint or clear whatsoever.

When people became aware of the neurological hazards regarding habitual exposure to hardeners for enamels, and the trouble with volatile organic carbon emissions from painting processes, epoxy paints became the method of choice.

A few cars were painted with enamel well into the '90s and early 2000s. The Mazda Miata is a good example. A good, thick coat of high-quality enamel will outlast a 2-stage paint job, and outshine it. Since the colored surface itself is the buffed and glossy part, enamel usually lends a nicer depth of color when handled correctly. Scratches below full paint depth can be buffed out on enamel, too.

The industry uses 2-stage clear for health, safety and environmental reasons (it also cures faster, so that speeds up manufacturing). Not for some inherent superiority that clearcoat provides.

Learn your finishes.

>> No.615498

>>615045
>single-stage paints

They haven't been used commonly in cars since the early 70s. The reason being is because the problem with single stage paints is oxidation as they oxidize very easily. Single stage paints still get swirls and scratches however in the real world the noticeable problem is the dullness and fading by oxidation. Miata was way behind the times, and as a result, almost any 90s- early 2000s miata you see is dull as fuck if it has original paint. It's only practical use today is for original restoration for classic cars.

Also anon, I said "almost" all metal paint, not all metal paints.