/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.500740]

Howdy /diy/. I've had a 2hp motor lying around my shop for around a year which my neighbor gave me as partial payment for a welding job.

Until now it was missing it's power cord, which I've just now gotten around to fixing and it runs beautifully.

I was thinking about making an immensely powerful buffer/grinder or sander with it, but I want to know what DIY thinks I could do with it.

Happy to hear any and all ideas.

[Anonymous No.500741]

Picture of the motors data-plate.

[Anonymous No.500758]

see if you canconvert it to dvc and run it on a gokart.

[Anonymous No.500759]

>>500758
*dc

[Anonymous No.500761]

What is it you do? There's so many purposes for a motor, especially one that is this powerful. it looks like it's made to handle two belts already, at a slow and a high speed. It may have been a band saw motor initially.

[Anonymous No.500764]

>>500761
I mostly do armouring and metalwork, but I also do leatherwork and a little bit of woodwork.

[Anonymous No.500783]

>>500740
Don't tell me that little black cord is for the power of that motor.

[Anonymous No.500797]

>>500764
Well, it seems that you'd be good to use both sections of the pulley, I'd set up a grinder on the large wheel and a buffer on the smaller, with the two machines facing each other. Only problem with the setup would be if one machine is on, they're both on.

[Anonymous No.500799]

er sorry, facing away from each other. If two people were working on the machines simultaneously, they'd be facing each other.

[Anonymous No.500805]

>>500783
The wee black cord is. There doesn't seem to be much of a problem running the motor off it.

What negative impact would the small sized cord have?

[Anonymous No.500809]

>>500805
Is the cord it rated to 10 amps?

The yanks are probably used to thick cords seeing they have half the voltage.

[Anonymous No.500811]

>>500764
MICRO LATHE!

[Anonymous No.500828]

>>500805
>What negative impact would the small sized cord have?

Best case it gets warm, melts, and blows a fuse...

Worse case it catches on fire and your house burns down.

Just make sure it is rated for the 10amps the motor draws and you are fine.

P.S. Amerifag here; OP is from australia, they run 2x the voltage at half the amperage than we do here.

[Anonymous No.500839]

That would be just right for a shop made saw, if you don't already have one. It would work well for a table saw or band saw. You could also make a compressor but thats more dangerous and more difficult. The grinder idea isn't a bad one though.

[Anonymous No.500843]

Go check out Matthias Wandel's stuff. With this motor you can make
>a band saw
>a thickness plane
>the worlds most ridiculous air raid siren
All if it from wood
>>500828
So... higher voltage means thinner chords? Why don't we run 1000 volts at quarter of the amps? I'm not into electronics.

[Anonymous No.500853]

>>500843
>So... higher voltage means thinner chords? Why don't we run 1000 volts at quarter of the amps? I'm not into electronics.

Because then you have to deal with the issues that a 1000V supply presents.

Aside from the "it'll fuckin' kill you if you look at it wrong" issue, dielectric strength of insulating materials (especially the enameled copper wire you find in motors) wouldn't be sufficient at normal thicknesses. Not to mention that components that can handle that kind of voltage aren't cheap.


120V is meh, but it gets the job done. 240V is arguably master race. 360V doesn't see the jump in usefulness that 120 to 240 does, and is starting to get into more dangerous territory.

480V or above would be completely out of line for home use. About the only thing in a "typical" house able to draw fairly high amperage on 480V would be a point-of-use water heater. Plus, at that voltage, you start running into arc flash; definitely something you don't want to experience firsthand.

[Anonymous No.500854]

>>500843

Mains voltage is a compromise. Higher voltage would be more dangerous to the user, would require better insulation, would suit badly for loads like incandescent lamps and so on.
Other than that, you're right. It's the reason why the power transmission lines use very high voltages.

[Anonymous No.500865]

>>500854
>>500853
Awesome, thanks.

So high voltage means more chance of arcing. Could we not then just do away with wires and simply have the electricity arc straight from the sockets to the appliances? Just kidding, but I hear people say that voltage don't kill, it's the amps. So, if you were to be electrocuted with, say, 1kW, would it be better if those watts came from lots of volts and few amps than the other way around?

[Anonymous No.500872]

>>500740
I can second your buffer idea op and raise you one better. I got an old as shit benchtop lathe from the 30s like pic related. powered it with an old swamp (evaporative) cooler motor. ghetto but you could turn table legs on it. not sure if such a thing works for metal. you typically see them sans motor at yard sales. ive seen belt drive drill presses that are similar.

[Anonymous No.500874]

>>500865

This shit again...

You need both. You can't force enough current through your body to kill you if it's at low voltage because the resistance between the contact points will be too high (varies greatly depending on distance between points and moist vs. dry skin, etc.).

That's not to say that very high voltage (kV+) WILL kill you, however, just about the only situation where it WON'T kill you is if whatever you're being shocked with is made _not_ to kill you (think shock pens/lighters and tazers) and won't deliver enough current to do anything more than cause you pain. Almost anything meant to power something at high voltage (neon lamps, CRTs, microwaves, etc.) can supply more than enough to fibrillate your heart.


You can't be electrocuted with "1kW" if it's at low voltage. It's physically impossible under all but some incredibly specific circumstances. Namely, you have a pair of electrodes stabbing you in the heart. Granted, it wouldn't necessarily be easy to tell whether you died to the electricity or the massive internal trauma at that point.

[Anonymous No.500875]

>>500865
>voltage don't kill, it's the amps

Yeah, but you need volts to push amps, so the point is somewhat moot. Also, even at 1kV level, your average wall socket would be able to deliver more than enough current, the limiting factor being your body resistance. So, you'd get a worse shock.

[Anonymous No.500876]

>>500865

This shit again...

You need both. You can't force enough current through your body to kill you if it's at low voltage because the resistance between the contact points will be too high (varies greatly depending on distance between points and moist vs. dry skin, etc.).

That's not to say that very high voltage (kV+) WILL kill you, guaranteed. However, just about the only situation where it WON'T kill you is if whatever you're being shocked with is made _not_ to kill you (think shock pens/lighters and tazers) and won't deliver enough current to do anything more than cause you pain. Almost anything meant to power something at high voltage (neon lamps, CRTs, microwaves, etc.) can supply more than enough to fibrillate your heart.


You can't be electrocuted with "1kW" if it's at low voltage. It's physically impossible under all but some incredibly specific circumstances. Namely, you have a pair of electrodes stabbing you in the heart. Granted, it wouldn't necessarily be easy to tell whether you died to the electricity or the massive internal trauma at that point.

[Anonymous No.500877]

>>500811
>>500872

Lathe. Do it.

[Anonymous No.500880]

>>500877

The problem with a lathe is you need much more than just a motor to make a decent one. Also, step pulleys for motors above 1 hp are not cheap. A good pair of 3 or 4 step pulleys can easily top $100 and you need them for a decent lathe. The next issue is that motor is way more than you need. I'd be kind of a waste when a 3/4th hp motor is all you need for a good woodworking lathe. If you want to go metal, well, you're costs have just tripled because it must be gear driven instead of belt.

[Anonymous No.500884]

>>500880
>costs have just tripled

I _wish_ the average price of a metalworking lathe was only triple that of an equivalent wood lathe...

[Anonymous No.500887]

>>500884
good wood lathe 5k
good toolroom lathe 1000mm B/C = 100k

[Anonymous No.500898]

>>500887
>good toolroom lathe 1000mm B/C = 100k
yea but
percentage of (reasonably-sized) hobby projects that can be done on a $2K China lathe: ~99%
percentage of (same) hobby projects that require a toolroom lathe: .001%

[Anonymous No.500951]

Probably take it and put it on my bandsaw and then use my variable speed 1/2 HP motor on a Gingery/Lincoln Lathe I will be building this winter.
>Then i would notice after mounting it that it is 220 at 10 amps and cry because my electric bill would shit itself and then realize I don't have 220 in my house.

>tfw murcan.
>tfw no glourious 220 except for my dryer.
>tfw my house has a shit ass breaker box that is maxed out and would have to be completely redone at insane amounts on money to even put in 2 more wall sockets.

[Anonymous No.500968]

hahaha
>9.6A
>made in australia
This thing is old as you got gypped big time how much off payment did he get away with.

[Anonymous No.500984]

>>500887
Hydraulic CNC lathe circa 1994 on current market
(wood)
~£15,000

There are cheap metalworking lathes available, lowest i've seen was £5000. Gotta know where to look boyo. Liquidators are always a good start. Give them a shout you're in the market for a metalworking lathe, and if they liquidate a metalworking shop they might just give you a call

[Anonymous No.500990]

>>500968
you type like you have teeth missing and a NASCAR hat. go away.

[Anonymous No.500996]

>>500968
I was only charging him $20 for about an hours worth of welding, he gave me $20 plus a 20L steel jerry can, several containers that I desperately needed and the motor. And the motor is is made VERY solid and seems to do the job quite well.

[Anonymous No.500999]

>>500805
>>500809
>make sure the cord is rated for 10A

It depends on what the motor is used for.

If the motor starts under a load, the amperage draw will be way higher than 10A and that cord will burn up, or the motor will.

[Anonymous No.501009]

>>500990
Im a sparky in Australia, any motor made in Australia is like 50yrs old.
>>500996
Thats ok, was gonna say if you did a job only for that you got ripped.

[Anonymous No.501010]

>>501009
So are you telling me this motor would have trouble running a big belt sander? I think it could do the job quite happily given 2 horsepower.

[Anonymous No.501014]

>>501010
im sure it would be fine, i was loling cause i though OP got ripped, you can buy good motors now for only a few hundred bucks

[Anonymous No.501020]

>>501010
yeah, but even under a light load, it may exceed 10A draw and start smoking your cable/tripping circuit breakers. I don't think this motor will be any good to you unless you have three phase available.

[Anonymous No.501022]

>>501020
Is there any way I could stress test the motor easily to see how it works with this power cord?

[Anonymous No.501025]

>>501022
you could mount a flywheel of some kind, or perhaps bolt it down and use a big chunk of wood/rubbber to load up the pulley once the motor has reached RPM. I'd recommend (unless sparkyfag disagrees) doing this behind a 4 outlet power board. These have 10A breakers in them, which should pop before your house breaker does. A clamp meter would be very useful for watching real time ampere load on the power cord as well.

[Anonymous No.501028]

>>501020
>>501025
lol it will be fine you should have a 20A or 16A CB on your power circuit, if you feel the cord is getting warm, buy a extension lead and cut it, usually the newer leads are bigger than what i can see in the pic.

[Anonymous No.501056]

>>500764
>I mostly do armouring

Linisher with slack belt or contact wheel.

easily the best way to do smooth surfaces after planishing.

[Anonymous No.501071]

>>500740
with so many pulleys you could use it for powering several things. Lathe, drill press, grinding wheels, air compressor, etc.

[Anonymous No.501072]

>>500740
a wheel to grind ur knives n shit

[Anonymous No.501075]

>>500805
>What negative impact would the small sized cord have?

It could overheat. Just keep checking to see if it is getting warm, if it does, switch it out with a bigger one. Personally, I'd use 12AWG, because the motor would perform better int he long run and 16AWG would be the smallest I'd think that could handle it.

[Anonymous No.501076]

>>500880
>Also, step pulleys for motors above 1 hp are not cheap.

Make your own. Either wooden or metal casting.

[Anonymous No.501141]

>>501076

Wooden pulleys for a 2 hp motor that will be used with a lathe is a bad idea. Metal ones are fine, but they should be cast iron, not zinc as is common with 1hp and less pulleys. Making cast iron pulleys and cleaning them up afterwards is a HUGE pain in the ass and not worth as a one off project it unless its already something you have the equipment to do.

[Anonymous No.501148]

>>501141
You'd still need to make the wood ones so you can use them to make the molds for sandcasting.

I'd just make them out of aluminum casting. It's pretty easy actually. If you have a backyard, sand, hairdryer, metal container, and some wood, you probably already have all you need to do aluminum metal casting.

http://backyardmetalcasting.com/

[Anonymous No.501150]

>>501141
http://backyardmetalcasting.com/castingpulleys1.html

[Anonymous No.501154]

>>501076
>>501141
>>501148
>>501150
>pour large block of aluminum into a coffee can or other round can that is as large as the largest pulley, put a shaft into the center first then pour
>attach block of aluminum to the motor and mark where the pulleys are to be
>turn the motor on and start lathing the pulleys out of the block of aluminum

How about that? Obviously, you need to use a metal cutter or two and something to rest them on like a normal lathe, but this should work if the block is secured properly. You might want to reduce the RMPs of the motor by lowering the voltage to it until you get the block of aluminum perfectly round and thus balanced. Otherwise, you may have made a 2HP vibrator. lol

[AnartechSystems No.501515]

>>501154
Fucking amazing. This is how I will cast my next pulley set.

> dem perfectly centered pulleys

[Anonymous No.501559]

Make a belt sander that will be remembered across ages. A belt sander to end all other belt sanders. Glory will be yours....

[Anonymous No.503117]

>powered bike not being your first idea

[Anonymous No.503162]

>>503117

How the hell is he going to use an AC motor to power his bike? He'd need one hell of an extension cord.

[Anonymous No.504096]

>>503162
>what is an inverter
>what are batteries

[Anonymous No.504103]

>>503162

Why, he'll rig his pedals to an alternator that powers an HHO generator that feeds a hydro combustion engine that powers an LED that shines on a solar panel that feeds a battery that runs through an inverter to power his 2hp motor of course!

[Anonymous No.504105]

>>504103
It'd be less convoluted to simply charge the battery at a wall outlet with a battery charger then use an inverter on the bicycle to convert DC to AC to run the motor.

[Anonymous No.504132]

>>504096
>>504105

Do you have any ideal how much power a 2 hp AC motor of that type draws? Probably 15-20 amps at 110 volts. You'd spend a fortune on an inverter powerful enough to handle it and you'd need a ton of batteries to run it for any usable length of time.

[Anonymous No.504137]

>>504132
>Do you have any ideal how much power a 2 hp AC motor of that type draws?

Yeah, all of us know exactly how much it draws. It draws 9.6 amps at 230/250 volts. That's 2400watts. The details are here, >>500741

If it is attached to a bicycle, its use will more than likely be restricted to uphill stuff like what most people do with motorized bicycles.

Two 12 volt batteries hooked up in parallel will last about 24.6 minutes with that motor (20 minutes for random variables and efficiency). For casual biking around town or out to get groceries, that'd be more than enough time. You'd only be using it on difficult areas after all.

[Anonymous No.504139]

>>504137
You can also have a generator system hooked up to the bike.

Then you'd be using the generator as a break, so when you apply the "breaks' it is actually engaging the generator and making power to charge the battery array. The same thing can be used for going down hill. You can have a small counter weight setup that engages the generator any time the bike is on a downward grade of x%. Obviously, you'd want to keep your current break system and have the generator break system separate.

Keep in mind that you'd need to be producing something between 14 and 15 volts at around 2 amps to charge the battery array. With 100ampHours you'd need 5 hours of continuous charging to charge the batteries back up. The array in >>504137 would need 10 hours since it is double the ampHours.

Since this is done when breaking or going down hill you can easily recoup some of the loss of power from going uphill initially. You'd not break even, but your battery array would at least last x amount of time longer. The added weight of a generator isn't that much either (around 4-5lbs).

[Anonymous No.504173]

Some of you people really are kind of stupid.

OP, what type of work do you do around your place? Could be useful for wood working, metal working, conveyor, or maybe pumping fluids. It is hard to know what you could do with it. Buffer/grinder is always useful if you don't have a good beast one.

[Anonymous No.504200]

>>504137
>>504132

Both of you are kinda wrong. It uses 9.6 amps at 220 volts. Thats 19.2 amps at 110 volts. Either way, thats a lot of juice to pull from an inverter and some batteries. Also, 2800 RPM is kind of a lot for a bicycle.

[Anonymous No.504265]

>>504200
I'm >>504137 and >>504139 and I've done this type of DIY before. It is actually pretty easy, but not cost efficient in the long run. 2800 RPM is fine after you hook it up to a gearing system. I recommend a v-belt. You can also reduce the voltage.

[Anonymous No.504267]

>>504200
>Thats 19.2 amps at 110 volts. Either way, thats a lot of juice to pull from an inverter and some batteries.

I do this all the time with my Harbor Freight Tools invertor and a couple car batteries when the electric goes out. They have to power my 2 freezers, 2 fridges, water pump and sewage sump pump. I don't allow them to run all at once though. I think the water pump pulls the most.

[Anonymous No.504457]

>>501154
good thing my wife hasnt read this... 2hp vibrator...

[Anonymous No.504571]

use it to tumble Al for thermite