/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.480922]

Never seen a thread like this and I feel like it could boost productivity.

ITT: your own protips that you never hear of other people doing.

>soak your old rusty bits (or whatever) in a mixture of concentrated pine sol and a pumice based cleaner (gojo) for a few days before taking them to the wire wheel. the rust falls right off.
Takes me about 2 minutes to clean each bit to look brand spankin new compared to taking 5 minutes per bit to handle the "tough spots".

pic related. the smudges on the "new" bits are from metal particle from the wire wheel.

[Anonymous No.480925]

>>480922
>drill bits
>wire wheel
Sounds like a great way to dull your drill bits.

[Anonymous No.480927]

>>480925
Well you would have to resharpen the bits anyway after they have rusted and banged around in a box.

[Anonymous No.480932]

>>480925

this - >>480927
and actually, not as much as you'd think.
use a crimped wire wheel and move along the bits as they would if being used and all is golden.

>2013
>no knowledge of bench grinder

[Anonymous No.480979]

>>480922
You could soak them in something better. Use ammonium citrate, citric acid, oxalic acid and you don't need to use a wire wheel. Heck I've used oxalic acid and it seems to work faster seems to leave behind a protective residue. I have iron rods I have to clean and they always form a thick rust crust but with the oxalic acid cleaning just a bit of light fine rust.

[Anonymous No.480981]

>>480922
You could soak them in something better. Use ammonium citrate, citric acid, or oxalic acid and you don't need to use a wire wheel. Heck I've used oxalic acid and it seems to work faster(hour or two) than the citrate and seems to leave behind a protective residue. I have iron rods I have to clean and they always form a thick rust crust but with the oxalic acid cleaning just a bit of light fine rust.

[Anonymous No.480997]

>>480922
>a few days
Or, you could buy a $30 ultrasonic cleaner.

10 minutes and an old, rusted, immobile, universal joint that hadn't been used since the 80's (maybe 70's, this was my dad's old stuff) was swinging free.
All of my old rusty ratchet parts got the same treatment and went from solid orange rust to shiny, with 2-3mm rusty patches.

[Anonymous No.481032]

You niggers derailed what could have been a great protip thread, this is now a whiny bitches contest

[Anonymous No.481118]

>>481032
exactly...humbling how often i'm reminded that the /diy/ hyperlink forwards to howtopretendyouknowthings.com/whinyfaggots

[Anonymous No.481125]

Is that what CLR is? When i was going through my dads tools to make a toolbox for my place, i would just get a sprat bottle of CLR, a wire brush, and some WD40.
Spray the CLR on the tool. Scrape the shit out of it with the wire brush. Repeat a few times until the tool looked nice. spray some WD40 and wipe it off with a rag.

Only issue is the more intricate tools. I have a pair of really heavy duty locking pliers(from the 80's, i guess) that look great on the outside. But the spring mechanism and inside the cut-outs, you can see its still a rusty mess.

[Anonymous No.481134]

>>481125
no. CLR is a real picky bitch. it'll eat through or tarnish a shit load of different metals. i don't recommend it.

[Anonymous No.481141]

The problem with sharpening bits is that you never get the 59 degree angle of the tip exactly right. I've heard that the angle affects the actual diameter of the hold.

[Anonymous No.481143]

Evapo-Rust. Soak them overnight, wash off, apply rust protector, done.

No wire wheels, or steel wool, or scraping, just done. Works on big stuff and small stuff. I restored a cast iron table saw top with it and its SOOO much easier than manually removing the rust. Its non-toxic, so you can just dump it anywhere when its spent, non-caustic, so you don't need to where all sorts of protection (I have eczema on my hands and it doesn't bother it at all) and its reusable! The stuff starts out a clearish green tint and you can keep using it till it turns black from all the oxide it pulls off. You can't beat it for easy rust removal.

It has two downsides: is expensive and you basically have to submerge the thing you're cleaning.

Because of the cost of Evapo-Rust I have two other methods for cleaning rust: citric acid and electrolysis (spooging). Citric acid is MUCH cheaper but not quite as good. You have to scrape the rust off as you go (which is very easy) to allow the acid to penetrate down to the bare metal. Its kind of a pain in the ass for hard to reach stuff. Electrolysis is probably the best method of rust removing out there but its a pain in the ass to setup. I wont explain it all here, cause its involved, but theres plenty of shit on google about it.

[Anonymous No.481231]

>>481143
i'd be doing electrolysis instead of the pinesol mix if it weren't for the time to setup, dangerous to my dumbass roommates and their dogs and didn't take up a fuck load of space...you basically need an entire area of shop dedicated to electrolysis lol.

[Anonymous No.481232]

>>481231
oh yeah, and the fact that you have to hookup your each piece to be cleaned...that'd take god damn centuries to clean all of my tools.

[Anonymous No.481234]

>if you actually use your tools, they dont get rusty

[Anonymous No.481464]

>>481143
Is there something special about cirtic acid that acetic acid (vinegar) wouldn't be able to accomplish? Would vinegar work similarly? And at what concentration of either?

[Anonymous No.481476]

>>481234
>not having specialty tools/parts that rarely get used
take your screwdriver and shove it up your ass son, you can use it to pry your head out and get yourself off at the same time


anyway, i've heard keeping chalk in your toolboxes helps stop rust from forming

[Anonymous No.481511]

>>481476
I keep silica gel packets in every compartment. (keep the ones you get in shoe/ trainer boxes). seems to do the trick

[Anonymous No.481513]

>>480922
Or you could just degrease and then soak in vinegar.
Or a mix of molasses and water (not kidding).
Or a phosphoric acid solution.

None of these methods would require the least bit of brushing with a wire brush or wire wheel, the rust will just wipe straight off the surface. With the first two, dry immediately to prevent flash-rusting, then ideally wipe an oily rag over them or rub in a thin coat of paste wax.

[Anonymous No.481539]

>>481464
Citric Acid, ammonium citrate and oxalic acid will chelate the iron in the rust. That means they grab onto the iron. Molasses has compounds in it that do this too. Less commonly used is EDTA. Evapo Rust is suppose to contain a chelating agent as the active ingredient.
http://www.ctsind.com.sg/pdf/ermsds.pdf
The link lists a compound and CAS number that don't seem to exist beyond chinese chemical suppliers.
It could be on purpose that that it is incorrect to hide the ingredient but the real compound is probably Ammonium dihydrogen phosphate(Monoammonium Phosphate aka MAP). It is used as fertilizer so it's going to be relatively cheap and easy to get. The compound is made from ammonia and phosphoric acid. In solution you get the effects of phosphoric acid and ammonia chelating the iron.

[Drege No.481549]

>>480922
Two methods I vote for >> Wire wheel
Not one of them.
No. 1 Vinegar
No. 2 Electrolysis

Both are non-harmful to your precision edge tools like saws and drill bits - provided that the rust has not significantly etched into the integral cutting edges of your tools.
Vinegar is non toxic, environmentally friendly, dirt cheap, an untrained monkey can do it, the longer you soak the rusted item the cleaner it will get, rinse with water and apply oil to seal the metal.
Electrolysis is a little more advanced . . .
Good luck.

[Drege No.481555]

>>481549
Electrolysis Is a little more advanced but basically you just put a DC current through your metal piece and another ferrous metal piece (like a piece of rebar) + to one - to the other (I don't remember witch one it is now) 24vDC is best, 12 will work fine, you can find 24vDC 5a transformers in thrift stores all the time, this is not a fire hazard. Then wire your leads up to your part and your donor electrode and let it sit plugged in, in 12 to 72+ hours your piece will be completely free and clean of any and all rust, it will be molecularly sterile, so it is of the utmost importance to SEAL THE MUTHERFUCKER WITH OIL OR PRIMER/PAINT.
Mere seconds exposed to the atmosphere instantly begins the corrosion process, regardless of if you live on the ocean coast or the deserts, best to just preform this indoors with a dehumidifier running, like a closet or well built shed.

[Anonymous No.481814]

you guys are some real faggots.
this is why we can't have nice things.

[Lei No.481821]

>>481141
Protip. Buy a brand new bit, and then drill a hole. Doesn't matter if you are using a rickety hand drill or a $1m ultra rigid CNC mill. You are going to drill oversize to some degree.

Then, with that in mind, go buy a drill grinding gauge for like, $3 at Harbor Freight, and rest assured that you can get it "close enough" and that you can plan for oversized drill holes. Drilling is a roughing operation. Bore and/or ream for some more finished and accurate surfaces.

Also, it's not the angle, but rather, the length of each edge. You have to match up the edges and match the angle. If it's not the original angle but the same angle as the other side, then it's still ok as far as accuracy goes. (then you see indexable carbide drills that take a dump on this statement.)

>>481234

You can store your tools in a fairly temperature controlled and dry area (like in your house). When things get cold, water tends to condense on the surface. Oil can only do so much in a situation like that unless you are planning on sinking it in a bucket of grease.

[Anonymous No.481827]

>>481814
>OP states bad protip.
>People suggest protips that work well.
>Complains instead of offering anything.
>Going to take the protip and shaft later tonight.

[Anonymous No.481833]

If you need a round hole in a piece of plywood and rough is ok drill a bunch of holes in the circumference of what you want, then smash it dead center with a hammer. I needed a hole for a water heater vent, didn't have a saw handy so I did that, was inspired by a stamp.

[Anonymous No.481847]

Protip: use your tools and they would never rust.

[Anonymous No.481852]

>>481476

Considering I work in a machine shop that has a lot of specialty, one of a kind tools, I can say you're an idiot. We have tools that get used maybe once a year and none of our shit get's fucked up. If you use the tools properly when you need them, which includes correct clean up, they will be good for the next time.

[Anonymous No.481857]

If your car belts(under the hood) are squeeky get a bar of soap and rub it on the inside of them

Always have a container of pepper stowed in your car. It's a good sealer for a leaking radiator (tip the whole container into where you fill it)

If you're low on fuel and the car is dying, swerve left and right and you'll get a few more klms

add a couple of teaspoons of methylated spirits to your windscreen water reservoir, sparkling windows everytime

If someone is tailgating you, hit the windscreen water button and turn em on for a second, you'll know you got them when they turn their wipers on (at night you can angle your mirror if a car is tailing you so the headlight beam blinding you will shine directly back into their eyes)

Fibreglass repair kits from surf shops (bout $20) are awesome for repairing small holes on rusty cars

[Anonymous No.481859]

The hobbyists in this thread are so obvious.

[Anonymous No.481868]

>>481857

might be known but don't ever fill up your car if you see a tanker restocking the fuel at a gas station (all the sediment and crap will be stirred up)

[Anonymous No.481938]

> steel bits being in charge of cutting

you need tungsten if you really wanna wail

[Anonymous No.481972]

fuck you fucks. went through this entire thread and not one good tip apart from OP's orininal one. just turned into a shitfighting cockfest

[Anonymous No.482014]

>>481859
is that supposed to be an insult?

[Anonymous No.482021]

>>480922
Protip: Clean your tools before they rust. Wipe em down and give em a quick squirt of WD40.

[Anonymous No.482026]

>>481972
>fuck you fucks. went through this entire thread and not one good tip apart from OP's orininal one. just turned into a shitfighting cockfest
Learn to read son. Just a few of the good ones related to rust removal (all of them better than OP's).
>>480981
>>481143
>>481513
>>481539


>>482021
>Protip: Clean your tools before they rust. Wipe em down and give em a quick squirt of WD40.
Yeah, most people do know that. But lots of folks inherit tools from others, buy 'em cheap at yard sales/car-boot sales etc. where they may have sat unused for years or decades even; the condition is usually at least somewhat neglected.

Tools aside, it's useful anyway for everyone DIY-minded to know good methods for rust removal.

[Anonymous No.482060]

>>482026
pretty sure my method works perfectly fine ya big stupid jerk.

[Anonymous No.482178]

anybody got any tips on rust and paint removal in bad spots (ie, tight corners).

trying to repaint this god damn metal shelf that's all welded together and i can't seem to clean that shit out enough :(

[Anonymous No.482295]

bumping..

[Anonymous No.482303]

>>482178
Sandblast that fucker

[Anonymous No.482305]

>>482178

I use a fein oscillating tool.. It has a triangle shaped pad for corners.

If ya wanna go cheap, I know harbor freight has a knock-off for 20-30$.. But I'm not sure what kind of attachments that gets ya.

[Anonymous No.482384]

>>482305
If chips in an extra 5-15 bucks he can get a new Rockwell off ebay straight from the company.
stores.ebay.com/ROCKWELL-TOOLS/Drills-/_i.html?LH_TitleDesc=1&_nkw=oscillating+&_cqr=true&_fsub=3438334014&_nkwusc=Oscillati+ng&_sc=1&_sid=127715324&_sop=2&_rdc=1_sticky=1&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14&_sop=2&_sc=1

[fllaw No.482419]

vinegar or water + molasses works very well also for rust removal.

shake it up / stir it around a bit every once in a while. I leave very heavily rusted parts for a few days and 99% of the rust will come off with a brillo pad.

[Anonymous No.482453]

HAY MOTHERFUCKERS HOW BOUT GETTING BACK ON OP'S THREAD IDEA!?!?

YOU CAN TUNE DRUMS QUICKLY AND REASONABLY WELL BY PAYING CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE TENSION ON THE DRUM KEY AND FEELING THE TENSION AROUND THE HEAD.

IF YOU CLEAN THE FRETBOARD OF YOUR GUITAR AND APPLY BOILED LINSEED OIL TO THE NECK AND LET IT DRY YOU WILL GET A GREAT FINISH AND SMOOTH FEELING FRETBOARD THAT'S MUCH NICER TO THE TOUCH.

ALSO SINCE WE'RE TALKING ABOUT DRILL BITS.
USING WD40 IS VERY USEFUL AS A LUBRICANT WHILE DRILLING METAL AND OTHER HARD SURFACES.

NEXT TIME YOU MAKE OATMEAL TO EAT THROW SOME COCONUT OIL IN WITH IT FOR THE SMOOTHEST, RICHEST, CREAMIEST BOWL OF OATMEAL YOU'VE EVER TASTED.

YOU'RE FUCKING WELCOME ASSHOLES!

[Anonymous No.482576]

>>481857
>If your car belts(under the hood) are squeeky get a bar of soap and rub it on the inside of them
I always use a wire brush on the ribbed side, it gets some of the build up off, you do it while the engine is running btw, it sounds like a really bad idea, but it works.
>Always have a container of pepper stowed in your car. It's a good sealer for a leaking radiator (tip the whole container into where you fill it)
I'm not a fan of any type of stop leak in a cooling system, mostly because I've seen it clog up and ruin heater cores and radiators. If you have a bad water leak and you need to get the car home or to a repair shop you can just pour water (or even pee) into the cooling system. Just don't let it get down to below freezing. You should keep an empty/ collapsible jug in the car.
>If you're low on fuel and the car is dying, swerve left and right and you'll get a few more klms
You shouldn't let your fuel level get down this far, the fuel in the tank actually serves to cool the fuel pump, running it dry like that drastically shortens its life. Also running out of fuel period should be grounds to lose your license.
>add a couple of teaspoons of methylated spirits to your windscreen water reservoir, sparkling windows everytime
not sure what that is, but sounds like it would be bad for your paint.
If someone is tailgating you, hit the windscreen water button and turn em on for a second, you'll know you got them when they turn their wipers on (at night you can angle your mirror if a car is tailing you so the headlight beam blinding you will shine directly back into their eyes)
you shouldn't do things to make a tailgater upset, they're already driving dangerously the best thing to do is ignore them and continue driving the way you were. I do agree with the mirror thing though.
>Fibreglass repair kits from surf shops (bout $20) are awesome for repairing small holes on rusty cars
I guess you could do this if you really wanted to but it's not the right way.

[Anonymous No.482720]

>>482384
>>482384
>>482384
>>482384

HOLY FUCKING SHIT THANK YOU!!!!!!!

[Anonymous No.482745]

>>481827
>>481972
I remember seeing one thread on /diy/ that started talking about "how to make money" and turned into over a hundred posts regarding the construction of cat posts.

Pic related.

[Anonymous No.482746]

>>482453
>USING WD40 IS VERY USEFUL AS A LUBRICANT WHILE DRILLING METAL AND OTHER HARD SURFACES.
>WD40
>A lubricant

Go back to /mu/, we don't like you and your half dozen threads about tye dying guitars, faggot.

[Anonymous No.482832]

>>482576
people like you are the dumbest faggots of all fucking time...

what about any of that was contributing to fucking anything?

[Anonymous No.482871]

>>482576
>If someone is tailgating you, hit the windscreen water button and turn em on for a second, you'll know you got them when they turn their wipers on (at night you can angle your mirror if a car is tailing you so the headlight beam blinding you will shine directly back into their eyes)
Fuck I hate me some tailgaters. Don't get a lot at night or I'd try to mirror thing.
>>482832
>tell someone why their advice isn't great
>call them a dumb faggot
I'm not sure if you have reading comprehension problems or what

[Anonymous No.482890]

>>480922
PROTIP: You can actually haggle prices if you call up and order from Harbor Freight Tools.

See this heat gun,

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

It is $14.99 now, but it was $12.99 a couple weeks ago.

I called in to order it. I gave the guy the item number and he said it was $14.99. I asked if that price was correct because it was $12.99 online. He said he'd price check and ask if they could sell it at that price. So, he comes back and is like, "$7.99" and I'm like "pic related."

It's actually a pretty nice heat gun.

[Anonymous No.482929]

>>482832
this

[Anonymous No.483748]

>>482060
If you're OP then sorry son, every one of those options is a *better* tip than you gave. That's just a fact, simple as.

Better as in: cheaper, more effective AND more efficient (reaches into tight spaces no mechanical removal can reach).

If you're not OP then why the butthurt?

[Anonymous No.483790]

>>482746
Yes. I have used WATER-DISPLACEMENT NO. 40 as
A lubricant. I've used it on bicycle chains, sprockets, drilling metal, cleaning guns and other metal parts..
I've seen people spray it on metal as a weather protectant against rust.
I've seen farmers spray it on hand saws while sawing in competitions so the blade won't get stuck as easily in the dry wood.

I doubt you've even USED Water-Displacement formula 40. (the 40th tested formula and the one that worked the best).

Go back to /b/ and troll someone else. You didn't even contribute any worthwhile information you nitpicky tumor.

[Lei No.483821]

>>483790
People get strangely elitist and butthurt about WD40. While not ideal for a lot of cases, in a pinch it will work. No one said it was the best of the best for a lot of shit. And it works great as cutting fluid for aluminum. For steel (which conducts heat less well than aluminum), a soluble oil would be better because you'd want cooling that the water would give you as well as the slight lubrication the emulsified oil will give you. But WD40 is better than nothing. What I am not too sure of is whether or not it is really better than just plain old water for that application.

[Anonymous No.483827]

>>481972
>fuck you fucks. went through this entire thread and not one good tip apart from OP's orininal one. just turned into a shitfighting cockfest
okay here is one: if you have to drill through thicker metal (like, say 1/8" or so) and you don't have real cutting fluid on hand and don't want to pay for any, you can use any kind of cooling oil. Corn oil, vegetable oil or canola oil.... It doesn't work GREAT, but it is way better than nothing. Keeps the drill bit cooler and stays sharp longer.

As for WD-40, it is a name-brand now. They make a bunch of different-formula stuff, and sell it all under the same brand-name.

Also witness my powdered teflon lube, fagwads. Step up.

[Anonymous No.483828]

>>483790
What he's kindly getting at is that WD40 is a solvent. It lubes only by cleaning the crud off, but doesn't technically lube anything itself (lubricant and water displacement are apples and oranges, buddy. Use some 3-in-1 oil instead, it's way better for your purposes. Doesn't evaporate in such short time either. But WD40 good for *dissolving said lubricants, eg oily crap all over the floor after you missed with the 3-in-1)

*=?

[Anonymous No.484063]

>>483821
it says lubricant on the can...how does a petro based oil that's been known and was formulated for lubrication fall under the 'solvent' category?

[Anonymous No.484065]

>>483827
you would be amazed at the different names they give mineral oil just to make people think they need 'this' specific oil for 'that' specific job.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil#Mechanical.2C_electrical_and_industrial

[Anonymous No.484068]

>>484063
because it was formulated for water displacement and corrosion protection, not lubrication?

[Anonymous No.484071]

>>483790
So much autism.

[Anonymous No.484073]

>>480925
>>480981
>>480997
>>481125
>>481143
>>481231
>>481539
>>483748

i honestly couldn't imagine any of those *better* tips giving a product that literally looks brand new like mine do.
vinegar: actually hastens the oxidation of iron(surface rust). unless you dowse it in baking soda immediately after soaking.
Even then, ya gotta let it soak for days to weeks to make it look that perfect.
(P.S.-concentrated cleaners are composed of permeable scented agents, citric acid & distilled vinegar mixed with elements of soda.
meaning - your faggot ass is fuckin dumb and your tools smell like shit whereas mine smell like fucking lavender, bitches.)

CLR- will eat through many, MANY ferrous and unferrous types of metal.

Ultrasonic - a great method if it didn't take so many runs (that you have to fucking sit there and supervise) and even then, still looks kinda shitty..

electrolysis - takes fucking forever to setup and still doesn't give anything near a new metal finish.

my method - 2 minutes per bit.

everyone else's methods - hours no matter the size or quantity.

[Anonymous No.484093]

>>482576
I thought that everything you said here was awesome, relevant enough, and should be the standard of attitude, tone, and helpfulness, setting the example for ignorant people like
this>>>482832
to control their autistic outbursts by. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.484096]

>>484063
....And cereal has LOTS of Vitamins and Minerals in it! But is still awful for your health; it's over-processed and sugary, most of the time.
WD-40 is not a lubricant, but it DOES lubricate briefly, just like spitting on your hand before jacking off lubricates things:
works briefly, then EVAPORATES. WD40 is very thin.
Welcome to /diy/, enjoy your first day?

[Anonymous No.484133]

>>484073
>my method - 2 minutes per bit.
Man it's great when someone forgets what they said previously and then lodge their foot firmly in their gob as a result.

From the OP:
>soak your old rusty bits (or whatever) in a mixture of concentrated pine sol and a pumice based cleaner (gojo) for a few days before taking them to the wire wheel. the rust falls right off.
>for a few days

[Anonymous No.484148]

>>484096
It makes chopping wood easier (lubricates the axe going through wood). Liquid Wrench is a far better lubricant though and doesn't evaporate.

[Anonymous No.484195]

>>484073

You just said you had to soak your shit for DAYS before you could spend two minutes cleaning them and even then you needed a wire wheel to finish the job. Evapo-Rust will take a rusted solid hunk of shit and turn it brand new in 24 hours. For a drill bit with some surface rust you'd need maybe 2 hours. No scrubbing, no wire wheel, leaves a like new surface and its reusable. Go on YouTube, look at some videos of before and after then pull your head out of you ass.

[Anonymous No.484277]

>>484133
>>484195

2 minutes of time spent actually putting work towards it vs. ______??

lrn2read&fckurslf

[Anonymous No.484278]

>>484133
man it's great when people inadvertently admit they'r autistic.

[Anonymous No.484296]

>>484277
>soak your old rusty bits (or whatever) in a mixture of concentrated pine sol and a pumice based cleaner (gojo) for a few days
>soak... for a few days
>a few days
>DAYS

Yeah, your still not getting it. I'll try to use small words so you understand: With evapo-rust you put it in, you wait a few hours (a day tops), you take it out, you rinse it with water and you are done. No scrubbing, no wire wheels, no waiting for days, no nasty shit you have to throw away. When you are done it looks like new. It takes less than 20 seconds from the point you take it out of the mixture to it looking factory fresh. You could drop a dozen drill bits in there and it wouldn't take any longer to clean them than just one.

The fact that you have to use a wire wheel at all proves your pine sol hillbilly jizz juice is pure crap and a waste of time. Even poorhouse citric acid mixtures that cost about $3 for a batch do a better job than that. With them you just have to use a stiff brush to clean them, not a god damn power tool.

[Anonymous No.484337]

>>484296
i was more referring more to the other guy. the evapo rust seems almost identical to what i'm doing, but i'll tell ya what, i'll leave to go grab some evapo rust right now and by the night of the night i'll give my honest thoughts on it.

[Anonymous No.484414]

>>484277
>lrn2read&fckurslf
Wow, just wow. This coming from the guy who seems to have a terminal reading disability.

Acting all butthurt doesn't make it any less obvious that you owned yourself buddy, deal with it.

[Anonymous No.484432]

>>484337
>i was more referring more to the other guy. the evapo rust seems almost identical to what i'm doing
>nearly identical
F.F.S. Are you really this stupid? You're STILL not getting it.

Try and understand it this time, I'll type slow and use small words.

At least 4 of the alternatives posted don't require ANY mechanical removal of rust BECAUSE THERE ISN'T ANY LEFT AFTER THE SOAKING, even in pits and recesses that no goddamned wire brush can reach.

Some of them will do zero damage to the tool steel, ZERO, and may provide future rust protection (hint: phosphoric acid). Maybe if you'd actually tried even one of them you'd know this and wouldn't continue to act all autisic about your method.

[Anonymous No.484519]

>>484432
see:
>>484073
>>484337

[Anonymous No.484587]

anybody got any tips on cleaning an HVLP gun?

and i mean this shit is BAAAD.

[Anonymous No.484628]

>>484519
See:
>>484133
>>484296
>>484432

[Anonymous No.484629]

Thread is now TL;DR so for anyone who wasn't around near the start, ignore the OP's redneck method and check out these for superior results with less effort, mostly cheaper too:
>>480981
>>481143
>>481513
>>481539