3D Printers

[Anonymous No.2894727]

What's a good 3D printer to buy? My budget is around $200. I'm an mature, & I'm mostly gonna use it for printing minis & knicknacks

[Anonymous No.2894728]

>>2894727
fillament or resin?

[Anonymous No.2894729]

>>2894727
It's more than worth it to drop a bit more and get something like a Bambu P1P if you want to go filament. It is the closest to plug and play we've gotten.

[Anonymous No.2894730]

Mars 4 Ultra or Mars 5 Ultra
You've also got to buy the equipment to clean and cure the resin, a few litres of IPA, a proper respirator and depending on where you live, a way to vent the fumes
Oh also you need to buy the resin itself

[Anonymous No.2894731]

>>2894727
Do you have space to keep it with good airflow like a garage?

[Anonymous No.2894732]

>>2894731
No I don't. I didn't realize that was a requirement. I'm glad I started asking

[Anonymous No.2894733]

>>2894727
Why is this image putting me on edge?

[Anonymous No.2894734]

>>2894733
I noticed it too, but didn't think it was worth mentioning.

[Anonymous No.2894735]

>>2894727

That's not a 3D printer, that's an electric chair

[Anonymous No.2894736]

>>2894733
re-used set pieces

[Anonymous No.2894737]

>>2894732
There's a 3d printing general you could have asked about this stuff. But yeah, probably a good idea to setup some airflow/extraction for any kind of printer you get. Especially the resin kind, though. Won't kill you, but it will stink up a room and it's never great to huff chemicals on a long-term timeframe

[Anonymous No.2894738]

>>2894727
>I'm an mature

[Anonymous No.2894739]

>>2894733
I see it.

[Anonymous No.2894740]

>>2894733
>>2894727
Lmao it always distracts me in the catalog.

[Anonymous No.2894741]

>>2894727
I would spend more for minis.

[Anonymous No.2894742]

>>2894729
Fuck Bambu

[Anonymous No.2894743]

>>2894742
fuck you

[Anonymous No.2894744]

>>2894737
it got archived

[Anonymous No.2894745]

>>2894727
I'd get the Bambu A1 Mini, and get the 0.2mm nozzle. Although if you have a bit more money, you could go for the A1.

You can get surprisingly decent detail at a 28mm scale.

Resin is faster and better quality for minis but fuck dealing with that toxic shit.

[Anonymous No.2894746]

>>2894745
>but fuck dealing with that toxic shit.
How bad are the fumes really?

[Anonymous No.2894747]

>>2894746
Everything is bad about it not just the fumes, resin being a liquid, is going to go everywhere, contaminating your workspace. Unless you have a dedicated workshop (separate from your dwelling) and you have the self-discipline and precision to actually work with toxic substances and not fuck up, I would not even consider doing it.

[Anonymous No.2894748]

>>2894746
Greatly exaggerated by paypigs who think GW's injection molded garbage is the pinnacle of modeling. A box fan blowing out a window, pulling from the direction of the printer will eliminate most fumes, but you can also get a duct fan and some hosing for under 40 bucks and just pull straight from the hood that goes over the printer, and point that out the window too.

Like >>2894747 says, the real issue is that it can be messy. It's not something that you setup without a dedicated work area that you are willing to get a little sticky. Gloves, a large silicone work mat, and lots of paper towels are advised. I think he's overselling it a bit, but I think he's not far off the mark. I'm used to working with shit like resin, so it's not that hard for me, but for someone who had never had to handle hobby chemicals in larger quantities than a paint pot, there's probably going to be a few spills and some ruined clothing.

[Anonymous No.2894749]

>>2894748
>A box fan blowing out a window, pulling from the direction of the printer will eliminate most fumes
That's enough for me to get one. Especially since 3D printers are about to illegal in my state

[Anonymous No.2894750]

>>2894746
Honestly it's not so bad, it's probably as bad as getting second hand smoke
Anyway the scariest part for the average hobbyist is that with exposure to the resin fumes you constantly risk your body suddenly developing a sensitivity to resin
Once you develop a sensitivity to the resin you're going to have to stop 3D printing unless you can get a proper lab grade fume hood with a HAZMAT suit because you'll get hives and the worst flu symptoms imaginable with merely a sniff
As someone who's developed a sensitivity to a chemical before it's horrible, think your face swelling up and becoming painful whilst every breath feels laboured
That's why it's important to invest in protective equipment and the right set up so you don't ruin the hobby for yourself in the future

[Anonymous No.2894751]

>>2894746
the fumes can trigger a resin allergy, and other problems, but its still early days for long term problems.
my prblem is more in handling a liquid that is difficult to clean up, will harden in sunlight, and while hardening get hot enough to set paper towel on fire (at least in australian sunlight), so while wearing gloves and moving models out of the print room to the outside shelf to cure, any spilled resin on my gloves that didn't get washed off in the IPA dunks will cure and burn my hands.

[Anonymous No.2894752]

>>2894751
>the fumes can trigger a resin allergy, and other problems, but its still early days for long term problems.
This form of resin has been used for decades in other fields. Dentistry, flooring.

[Anonymous No.2894753]

>>2894749
You can also build a pretty simple enclosure with a hydroponic grow tent and run your extraction hose out the window. If you have access to industrial fume extraction, go for it, but as long as you are making efforts to be safe and not leaving the printer running with the hood off in an airtight room that you are also sleeping in.

[Anonymous No.2894754]

>>2894751
3d printing is recent but the main components of resin have been around for a long time. Styrene, which is the primary chemical in most resins, is almost 200 years old and it's (negative) effects on health are very well documented.

[Anonymous No.2894755]

>>2894752
Polymer resins are toxic and so are the resin fumes. Ask literally any chemist who works with the stuff. Dentists work with several orders of magnitude less photopolymer resin when making fillings and dentures than when the average hobbyists pours one out for a print. Unless you intend on purchasing/building a workshop specifically geared for resin work, I recommend getting an FDM printer and DIYing an exhaust system to vent the gasses outside.

You might think I'm overreacting but resin fumes really are that bad

[Anonymous No.2894756]

>>2894753
>, but as long as you are making efforts to be safe and not leaving the printer running with the hood off in an airtight room that you are also sleeping in.
Well I won't be doing that...but I will be sleeping in the same room

[Anonymous No.2894757]

>>2894754
yes, but for a long time people have been using resin are usually using it for 1-2 hours a day at work, in relativly well managed scenarios.
not running it for 12 hours, in their bedroom, next to an open vat of IPA.
the medical effects of constant low level contact in your home is new.

[Anonymous No.2894758]

>>2894746
It's shitty and the fumes will make you nauseous at best, but if you can stick it in a garage next to the door and/or in a ventilated grow tent it's manageable. It makes a mess, though. I definitely got my money's worth printing stuff I would have otherwise paid for.

[Anonymous No.2894759]

>>2894756
Your exposing yourself to feminizing cancer fumes

but not the fun kind

[Anonymous No.2894760]

>>2894756
Just so you know, 3d print resin only produces fumes while curing. The stuff does have a scent otherwise, but you won't really notice it unless you're stick your nose up to the tank to get a whiff. The dangerous VOCs that people are way too concerned about are only emitted when the resin is being cured by UV light (when printing and when curing after cleaning) and that's when your open window fume extraction should be running. If the machine is off and sitting with the lid/hood on, you're not in any danger from the resin in its liquid state sitting in a bottle or in the printer's tank.

Like others have already said: Wear gloves, set up a protected, contained workspace for de-plating, cleaning, and curing, and have some respect for the chemicals you're working. Also, don't do anything retarded like getting resin on you skin, then letting it soak for hours, and then go walking around in bright, direct sunlight until it starts burning.

[Anonymous No.2894761]

I never got paid my metals from Chort. What the fuck?

[Anonymous No.2894762]

>>2894761
>thinking the medals get paid out immediately
>even needing medals
The reward comes a day after MO victory. It always takes AH time to dole it out for some reason.

[Anonymous No.2894763]

>>2894760
>Just so you know, 3d print resin only produces fumes while curing.
Clearly not, or they wouldn't smell even when not-curing. There has to be something there for your nose to detect it you know. Now is the smelly part also the dangerous part, or is it perhaps that we only get the really dangerous stuff wile curing? Fuck knows, I'd actually love to see a proper article about that, as opposed to the usual completely unsourced but dead certain claims we see all the time about these things.
Compare with the VOC talk, and the various youtubers getting a cheap VOC-detector off of Amazon to see if carbon filters do anything. I recall at least one saying the filter did little, because the smell went away but the detector didn't notice much. But the shit he's smelling is also VOCs, so clearly some of them went away. Was that just harmless ones while the naughty ones are still there? Does the detector actually detect the really dangerous tuff from the printer/resin in the first place? Fuck knows, the video isn't made by someone who knows anything about such things, it's just some random guy fumbling around with a dirt cheap bit of Chinese electronics without giving any though to what "VOC" actually means and what it is his nose is detecting. (The PEA reminds us:"All available measurement methods are selective in what they can measure and quantify accurately, and none are capable of measuring all VOCs that are present.")
All in all there's a massive shortage of actually authoritative sources for information on these things. You have your ideas, this guy has his, that guy has his, I could make some guesses... But who actually knows his shit, and how to recognise him? Fuck knows.

[Anonymous No.2894764]

>>2894727
>My budget is around $200
You'll need to double that. A Mars 4 Ultra is about $200, but you'll also need to buy resin, gloves, ipa, curing lamp, etc.

>fumes paranoia
You need three things: a window, nitrile (blue) gloves, and a curing lamp.
If it stinks, open a window.
If you're working, use gloves.
Amazon has lamps for cheap, look at the 3d printing recommended ones. Once you're done cleaning your stuff, use the lamp to bake your workspace and cure all the residue left over. That's where 90% of the smell comes from. Then just keep the hood on the printer and you won't even notice it.

[Anonymous No.2894765]

>>2894764
>You need three things: a window, nitrile (blue) gloves, and a curing lamp.
>If it stinks, open a window.

Enjoy your resin filled lungs that stop working by the time you're 30.

[Anonymous No.2894766]

I just want to mass print a couple heroforge STLs I bought because I couldn't find any cavalry archers minis for my DnD game at a reasonable price. Historical are too small because of size bloat so all the historical i buy look tiny compared to my 3.5e era DnD minis or even reaper minis.

[Anonymous No.2894767]

>>2894763
Smells and fumes are not the same thing.

[Anonymous No.2894768]

>>2894767
Not all fumes have a smell, but something must get into the air for you to smell it. Our sense of scent isn't non-local. Now this something could perhaps also be liquid droplets or solid particles (instead of just gas), but if a pool of resin that's just sitting there undisturbed (and smelly) is sending a reasonable amount of either into the air then I'd very much like to know just how the flying fuck that's happening. Without that explanation basic everyday evaporation seems decidedly more plausible.

[Anonymous No.2894769]

+1 for the Bambu Lab A1 mini
Also: invest in that optional filament feeder thing too.

[Anonymous No.2894770]

>>2894769
Filament still isn't good enough to print minis, though. The Bambu is good, but not if you want to print anything with fine detail.

[Anonymous No.2894771]

>>2894770
>good enough to print minis
depends on what you're using them for. While they won't pass (aka be mistaken for) GW product at a close inspection work with their .2 nozzle and layer heighs in the 0.8 range works for almost everything else, whether its terrain, game pieces and so on. So unless your trying to 'pass' it's perfectly fine to print some goofy guys or some custom bits or tools and terrain and so on.

[Anonymous No.2894772]

>>2894770
Yes, but as already mentioned in this thread, resin is a big no no.

[Anonymous No.2894773]

>>2894763
This pdf is a section of someone's thesis basically cycling air through a chamber with a printer in it with the hood on before, during, and after print and analysing the captured "fumes".

Worst thing imo is the isocyante (2,4-TDI). Isocyanates got reclassified a few years ago and they sensitise like motherfuckers. The acrylate monomers are also pretty shit.
Are they getting released in high enough concentration to fuck you up? Fuck knows, someone will have to do more test using a printer in a "normal" environment but I would 300% reccomend not sleeping next to one of these fuckers long term.

Both of these vapours can be handled with the right mask and active ventilation tho.

[Anonymous No.2894774]

>>2894773
Now we're getting somewhere. I don't see any mention of how long time the different steps took, leaving the emission rates unknown, but I could have missed a lot. It seems the notion that we only get fumes while the printer is actively printing is thoroughly trashed at least. (Also measuring emissions in mass per mass printed for the pre phase seems a bit of a... peculiar choice.)
Doesn't seem to be a PhD thesis, so I guess that suggests there just hasn't been a lot of research done here. Bachelor?
And yes, having one (printing or not) in the bedroom seems less than prudent.

[Anonymous No.2894775]

>>2894774
Yea, you should have it in a low traffic room with a good ventilation set up. If you live in a studio appartment it's just not really smart. The resin vat is always offgassing unpleasent shit, and the IPA isn't good either.

[Anonymous No.2894776]

Is this the /3dpg/? I have owned a Mars 4 Ultra for a while now, and am tired of failed prints and fixing it. I'd like to buy something new to replace it. Trying to decide between the Mars 5 Ultra and the Saturn 4 Ultra 16k. Thoughts?
M5U Pros
>$215 cheaper
>Arrives 4 weeks faster than the S4U 16k
>Smaller footprint
>Cheaper replacement screens than the SFU 16k

S4U 16k Pros
>I can print a baneblade
>Print more dudes at once
>Dont need to refill vat as often
>Heated vat?

[Anonymous No.2894777]

>>2894774
Yea, there's just not a great deal of research out there. This was from the guy's bachelor's, I believe.
Emission rate would be great but you're right there's no timings sadly and the units are pretty wonky for comparison. It's worth noting this is the total amount of emission, it would have been interesting to see what the concentration would have been vs wearing a monitoring pump to collect the sample and using the printer in a normal setting for a print cycle.

[Anonymous No.2894778]

>>2894775
>>2894777
>>2894774
Print a hose adapter stick it on the exhaust port of the printer an exhaust out a window. You can make a cheap fume good too with $1 drop sheet plastic and 6mm dowels and print the corner adapter, you can exhaust that in addition. Just a light negative pressure to keep airflow inward to the tent/fume hood and inward from there to the printer. You don't need a highly powerful fan, like 12v dc fan will do it, running cost is fuck all to leave it on

[Anonymous No.2894779]

>>2894778
you should have that minimum, but also it's still good practice to keep it in a low traffic room, even with a good setup you dont want to be right next to your bed or work dest, because you're going to be opening the door to the enclosure periodicaly to work. It's not going to kill you to have a shit setup, but it's not great, and if it's a hobby you plan to engage with years, not great adds up.

[Anonymous No.2894780]

>>2894773
The few youtube channels I've seen where some sperg pretends to be a hazardous materials expert and bemoans the dangers of 3d printing are always dipshits who are running their printers non-stop in enclosed, windowless rooms in their house or garage. And then they suggest some giant, expensive air purifier or air recycling system that they just happen to be sponsored by.

YES, if you are running these machines day and night with zero airflow in a sealed room, you're going to build up really unhealthy amounts of VOCs. NO, that doesn't mean that having the machine in the same timezone as you, it will give you cancer if you don't buy a $10,000 industrial fume hood.

You can build a more than good enough fume extractor for very little money and vent the bad chemicals out a window, but the key thing here is to do that in the first place. That's the fucking secret. Don't buy and start using these machines without also buying proper equipment to vent them while in use. It's that simple.

[Anonymous No.2894781]

>>2894743
No fuck THEM. Who the fuck thinks that being locked into Bambu brand spool thread is a GOOD thing?

Get the fugg out of here corpo shill.

>>2894745

Why the heck would someone get the a1 mini when the Ender 3SE is availible for 2/3rds the price and all the same important features?

They had me at ABL. This thing is the bomb.

Fuck getting a resin printer tho, this thing is doing ALL my epic scale minis.

[Anonymous No.2894782]

>>2894781
>when the Ender 3SE is availible for 2/3rds the price

Because the Ender is a garbage machine and you are busy with getting it to run properly for ages.

[Anonymous No.2894783]

>>2894737
>Especially the resin kind, though.
Correction - never EVER run a resin printer without good ventilation. Shit will fuck you up for life if you aren't careful.

[Anonymous No.2894784]

>>2894727
>I'm an mature, & I'm mostly gonna use it for printing minis

[Anonymous No.2894785]

>>2894783
It's okay James.

[Anonymous No.2894786]

I think a better FDM printer and figuring out the correct settings for it could work good enough if you plan to have at least one or two bigger armies and terrain for you board(s). Minis won't look that stellar, but I think with proper setup you can get to the level of old metal and similar material minis, which are fine for playing.

[Anonymous No.2894787]

>>2894781
>Why the heck would someone get the a1 mini when the Ender 3SE is availible for 2/3rds the price and all the same important features?

You are welcome to find out for yourself

[Anonymous No.2894788]

>>2894781
Is ABL really materially that much different from PAL or PETG?

[Anonymous No.2894789]

>>2894781
because enders are far less usable out of the box, and any money you save from choosing it will be lost in upgrading the ender.
its a shame bambuus are practically spyware with their levels of walled garden ideology.

[Anonymous No.2894790]

>>2894781
Absolute retarde take. You are not locked into Bambu spools.
>Ender 3
God damn ahahahaha
>>2894782
This. I started with an Ender 3 Pro. Upgrades aren't worth it. I did all sorts of shit, BLtouch, all Metal extruder, Capricorn tube, volcano hot end + genuine CHT nozzle
It was still an ender 3 at the end of the day at some point after working on a major project after a long hiatus I had enough and looked into better printers after seeing an ad for Kobra 3, and cross shopped that against the Neptune and a host of others until I found about Bambu and then was annoyed after finding the A1 and umm and ahh'ed for ages. Eventually settled on a P1s, though for minis an A1 mini might be the go to with a 0.2 nozzle. Though resin is better for that desu.

[Anonymous No.2894791]

>>2894786
>but I think with proper setup you can get to the level of old metal and similar material minis,
Fuck no, not with those layer lines.

>which are fine for playing.
You should look into the hex and chit side of things. It may very well be your thing.

[Anonymous No.2894792]

>>2894783
>Shit will fuck you up for life if you aren't careful.
No it won't, but good ventilation is still something everyone doing 3d printing should make a priority. The fearmongering about the toxicity of is largely coming from faggots who are angry that 3d printing undermines the value of their paypig horde of unassembled GW models. These same people never talk about safety with as much fervor or severity when it comes to handling any of the chemicals and materials they work with.

[Anonymous No.2894793]

[Anonymous No.2894794]

>>2894757
>1-2 hours a day at work
>laughs behind fullface forced air in boat shed

[Anonymous No.2894795]

>>2894793

[Anonymous No.2894796]

>>2894792
>The fearmongering about the toxicity of is largely coming from people who know to read and understand the MSDS
Fixed that for you.

[Anonymous No.2894797]

>>2894727
Have you looked into a Creality K1 SE or a FLASHFORGE Adventurer 5M Pro? I'm waffling between those two.

[Anonymous No.2894798]

>>2894792
>The fearmongering about the toxicity of is largely coming from faggots who are angry that 3d printing undermines the value of their paypig horde
Or just people familiar with things like asbestos. Or smoking. No one is telling you not to 3D print, just to make sure you're aware that breathing in a bunch of fine particles that doesn't break down into your lungs is bad juju and to take precautions appropriately.

[Anonymous No.2894799]

>>2894798
>Or just people familiar with things like asbestos.
Clearly you aren't, or you wouldn't make such a retarded comparison that undermines any point you could attempt to make.

[Anonymous No.2894800]

>>2894799
If there's one thing that will never make me sad, it's aggressive retards paving their own painful grave. Have fun, bud.

[Anonymous No.2894801]

>>2894799
What exactly do you gain by spreading known lies on the internet?

[Anonymous No.2894802]

>>2894800
>>2894801
Comparing easily ventilated 3d print fumes to asbestos is extremely retarded fearmongering. Do yourselves a favor and just stop repeating retarded nonsense.

[Anonymous No.2894803]

>>2894775
>IPA isn't good either
I don't think this gets mentioned enough; for all the hemming and hawing about resin fumes, using 99% IPA as a cleaner is at least as bad (if not worse) of a respiratory risk. Luckily you don't particularly have to use high strength IPA to clean; lots of people (myself included) have had good results with degreasing cleaners (like Simple Green, Mean Green, etc). I do use some 7% IPA as a post rinse though (my degreaser of choice leaves a bit of residue otherwise).

[Anonymous No.2894804]

>>2894803
I just use water washable resin and don't care about IPA at all. Makes cleaning so much more easy and convenient.

[Anonymous No.2894807]

>>2894793

[Anonymous No.2894882]

>>2894727
when I impulsively bought Creality K1 SE I had no idea what I'm doing and hadn't had any interest in 3D printers before that, I just randomly came across some discounted printer shipped from abroad and clicked buy, but it's actually alright and now after doing some research, I realize it could've been much worse and I'd probably buy it again, or bambu A1

[Anonymous No.2894884]

Imagine sending paid shills to a chinese basket weaving forum frequented by poor people.

[Anonymous No.2894914]

>>2894727
hey my retard female coworkers are spending like 300 dollars on "red light masks"

any way to use a 3d printer to make these or no?

[Anonymous No.2894921]

>>2894914
Doesn't look like a problem; you might have to break the mask up into sections depending on your bed size, but that + some red LED strip an you're good to go. The science strikes me as placebo, but a fool and her money etc etc.

[Anonymous No.2894971]

Are bambu printers still worth it or is all the drama surrounding their 3rd party stuff enough to try and find smth else?

[Anonymous No.2894972]

>>2894971
Should have clarified cost-wise since you’ll be using and buying all bambu stuff and i’m sure there’s others who could mix and match for cheaper. Unsure quality at that point

[Anonymous No.2894973]

>>2894972
no skin in the game but the new prusa is supposed to give the bambu a run for the money. buying a brand new model at release is always iffy though

[Anonymous No.2894987]

>>2894973
Ooh good to know

[Anonymous No.2895028]

>Oh look, another useless flame thread

[Anonymous No.2895031]

>>2894973
>Supposed to
How so? So far we've only seen regression on PLA quality. Nevermind the camera being an optional cloud only accessorie.

[Anonymous No.2895129]

>>2894763
>getting a cheap VOC-detector off of Amazon to see if carbon filters do anything
the problem is people thinking filters are straight carbon and not carbon as matrix impregnated with specific chemicals for the exact substance class they are made to absorb

[Anonymous No.2895181]

>>2894746
Even if you just disregard the fumes entirely, every single thing about resin printing is a gigantic pain in the ass and it's just not worth it.
There is no step in the process, even when it's all working right, that you go "wow I'm having a good time, resin printing is awesome."
No
You're like "oh god damnit it spilled AGAIN"
fuck resin printing
FDM until literally anything else becomes affordable.

[Anonymous No.2895289]

>>2895181
Do you have Parkinsons?

[Anonymous No.2895290]

>>2895181
>oh god damnit it spilled AGAIN

[Anonymous No.2895310]

>>2895181
It's OK to be inept anon, just stay in your lane

[Anonymous No.2895367]

>>2894782
>>2894789
this hasn't been true for years. they are as plug and play as bambu are now.

bambu also isn't immune to needing tweaking. the difference is I can do said tweaking much easier on an open source printer that lets me use whatever third party slicer/webui that I want.

>>2894971
no. they are headed down the path of charging you a subscription to use their locked-down services. until someone makes a reliable jailbreak i wouldn't even consider them anymore. also even at a hardware level they don't have the edge they did a few years ago.

[Anonymous No.2895369]

Yo niggas is there a reason Prusa refuses to make a printer that's worth its cost?
There's no reason to get the new one over building a voron.

[Anonymous No.2895371]

>>2895369
at the same cost?
bigger is nice to have but comes with a shitton of downsides that i assume prusa didnt want to deal with

[Anonymous No.2895372]

>>2895371
You're already willing to spend $1200 on an overpriced creality machine.
Either get the cheap budget one or build one that works.
There's no good sense in paying that much money and you're just servicing another dude's printer. It's his because his name is on every part.

[Anonymous No.2895378]

>>2895372
the core one kit is 1080€ for an all steel frame, a voron trident kit with v6 and printed structural parts is >1000€ and upwards. Of course you can source everything yourself and try printing pc cf on your bedslinger about to be replaced, but lets not pretend that this is done in a Sunday afternoon.

[Anonymous No.2895441]

>>2895378
You get what you pay for

[Anonymous No.2895458]

>>2895369
>There's no reason to get the new one over building a voron.
Well, duh. There's a reason the Voron community as a whole reacted rather bored.

>>2895371
>>2895378
It's not 2021 anymore. Voron kits are plenty and cheap.

[Anonymous No.2895480]

>>2894727
for minis and knickknacks you'll probably get better use out of a resin printer than a filament one. if you want to save money check out creality's Amazon return sales. they go for $50-$90 as is, though the selection is obviously sporadic. if you don't mind splurging something like a bambu or similar higher end name brand is absolutely worth it.

[Anonymous No.2895748]

>>2894745
bambu is non-free closed-source proprietary botnet

[Anonymous No.2895785]

>>2895458
>Voron kits are plenty and cheap.
not in this shithole here apparently.

[Anonymous No.2895815]

>>2895785
Brazil? I doubt there's any country left without ali as last resort.

[Anonymous No.2895816]

>>2895815
>ali
huh never checked there.
For an equal sized, still 800€ without printed parts. the thing is equal in cost as the prusa here

[Anonymous No.2895838]

>>2895816
Why pretend to know what you're talking about? You just look like a dumb shill.

[Anonymous No.2895839]

>>2895838
if im too retard to search ali then please, link me these magically cheaper kits. I am in the market for a core xy

[Anonymous No.2895846]

>>2894727
Buy a cheap piece of shit and print out a better one. The non-printable parts are cheap af.

[Anonymous No.2895864]

>>2895748
And will do a better job for less.

[Anonymous No.2895871]

>>2895864
Better than what?
>Inb4 Ender3 story #2582957743

[Anonymous No.2895920]

I was convinced about the Bambu A1 mini but just learned about the botnet drama. I was so ready to pay the "just works" tax ...
So I have to settle for Ender 3 V3 SE?

[Anonymous No.2895949]

>>2895920
There's Prusa. You all still have Prusa.

[Anonymous No.2895978]

>>2895920
Just werks is frankly a meme on any machine, given that it all can go to hell by just a particular shitty spool of filament. If you just wanna print a few particular objects without getting further into cad, you're likely better off finding your local variation of makerspace and do some one shots over there. Most have at least one Bambu, Prusa or Voron these days.

[Anonymous No.2896036]

>>2895949
Expensive >:

>>2895978
Been putting off buying one for a long time, I have quite a lot of things to print and prototype, easily enough to warrant the 170€ to have a printer at home.

I do want to do TPU prints at some point though. The ender3se seems to be good enough for it?

[Anonymous No.2896042]

Also, does anyone know if ordering from creality3doffical.eu within EU works without any taxes? They don't include VAT in their prices and don't seem to ever charge it ... Will I be slapped with surprise 25.5% VAT at some point?

[Anonymous No.2896046]

>>2896042
You have to be over the age of eighteen to post here.

[Anonymous No.2896048]

>>2896046
Bro I'm mid 20s. I've never ordered anything within EU that has no VAT already included. They ship from Czech Republic so within EU, so no customs. What's the catch?

[Anonymous No.2896062]

>>2895838
>>2895839
still waiting

[Anonymous No.2896101]

>>2896048
Like sales taxes, sales to people outside the tax's area of effect are generally not subject to VAT.

[Anonymous No.2896348]

What printer will be better at printing large technical ABS parts through 1mm nozzle in an enclosure, Elegoo Neptune 4 Max or Anycubic Cobra 2 Max? Maybe there are better options in the same price range?

[Anonymous No.2896485]

>>2894727
You could get a (used) anycubic kobra or kobra 2 for around that. I picked up a used kobra about a month ago to get my feet wet with 3d printing and it's been great

[Anonymous No.2896496]

I'm buying a Mars 5 Ultra
Struggling whether I should get the wash and cure 2 in 1 or just DIY my own?
Washing seems easy but not sure about curing

[curious dog No.2896570]

The best diy 3d printer? I'm recycling some components from my old DIY colido (like motors and end switches). Which is the least expensive and smallest to make?

[Anonymous No.2896668]

>>2896496
>Struggling whether I should get the wash and cure 2 in 1 or just DIY my own?
A ready-made system (well-designed) makes things fast, easy, and convenient. A DIY solution depends on your relevant skills. Is it possible to make something comparable for cheaper? Of course, otherwise the manufacturer wouldn't make a profit from it. You can go simpler too, of course. Rather than a timed powered alcohol stirrer, you could shake parts in a colander in a plastic tub. This would probably require more alcohol and space unless you can size the parts just right.

>Washing seems easy but not sure about curing
Optimal curing for most resins involves 405nm light at about 10W/cm^2 intensity (specifically, not higher, per Formlabs tests IIRC), usually with elevated temperatures (depending on resin). This wouldn't be very hard to DIY, though the timing, turntable, and often heating on purchased models can be nice. Most standard UV LEDS are a suitable frequency.

Whichever you decide, some tips:
Use two different batches of alcohol for washing: a first pass that picks up most of the resin (this gets dirty fast), and a second pass that removes lingering residue. Two fast washes like this cleans better (and the alcohol is usable longer) than using a single batch of dirty alcohol. Excessive time in alcohol can weaken the print, so watch this.
Photo-hardening resins are thermoset resins. They harden in response to heat as well as light, hence the common use of heat during curing. A very effective method of curing is to immerse a print in hot water in a clear container in a curing station. This method is recommended by Siraya Tech for their engineering resins, and specifics will vary by resin. Immersing in hot water after UV curing also works.

[Anonymous No.2896679]

>>2896570
>The best diy 3d printer?
Probably a hot-rodded Voron tailored to your specific use case.

>Which is the least expensive and smallest to make?
This is a very different question. The usability of cheap purchased printers and the time need to DIY means that DIY printers are mostly aimed at higher-end markets (e.g. Vorons). Some Voron Zero kits are fairly cheap (though more expensive than many ready-made printers).

[Anonymous No.2896738]

>>2894781
>muh Bambu conspiracy
I see Reddit is leaking.
>>2894971
Yes.
>>2895367
Retard conspiracy theories
>>2895871
Better than everything else in the same price range?

[Anonymous No.2896793]

>>2896738
Until somebody releases open-source software for bambulab printers aint buying them.
Only thing good about them is the quality of assembly, comparing to Prusa cheaper.
But their software and all this shit is THE reason why they are shit.
>muh Bambu conspiracy
>I see Reddit is leaking
Go back.
>inb4 Ender 3 fanboy
Creality printers are shit too, plus did you see their "mobile app"? they have literal fucking adds with premium subcscriptions and other shady shit. I hate them as much as I do the bambulab.
>inb4 Prusa fan
Prusa are good but their price is shit, they cost thrice the same quality printers, but other than that pretty meh-okay company.

[Anonymous No.2897024]

>>2894793

[Anonymous No.2897042]

I'm thinking about getting a ender3 V3 plus over a A1 because I know they both will break but I can repair one while the other will need proprietary parts. is it retarded ?