uninterrubtible router

[Anonymous No.2773874]

i get daily power outages which will last 1-2.5 hours. to add insult to injury, my IP address changes when i lose power, forcing me to reconfirm my email on discord .. etc.

the obvious solution is UPS, i looked up some models online. the ones available will either work for 15 minutes only, or go multiple hours but cost a kidney.

i thought maybe a 20,000mah power bank with 5v-12v adapter. this will solve the internet connection issue, but won't solve the IP address situation. since i'll have to switch the power plug from AC to power bank each time i lose power (1st power cut), and switch back to AC when power is restored (2nd power cut), then recharge the power bank.

alternatively, i could just leave the power bank connected to the wall, and the router connected to the power bank. but that way the batteries will die in few months, not to mention the possibility of causing a fire.

i need uninterruptible power to the router, that only needs to be set up ONCE, with no manual effort on my behalf. surely diy can help?

[Anonymous No.2773880]

>>2773874
> but that way the batteries will die in few months, not to mention the possibility of causing a fire.
There are a ton of circuits online where the battery will only charge when it needs to, and the battery will be bypassed when there is enough power from mains.

There are also $50 devices called cp12036Li that do exactly what you want for 9 hours are designed as router UPS and are the first fucking hit on Google. Or YX850 which is a cheap circuit where you supply your own 12V battery. Use sqt next time

[Anonymous No.2773883]

>>2773874
I'm curious what your situation is where you lose power for several hours a day.

[Anonymous No.2773890]

>>2773874
>the obvious solution is UPS, i looked up some models online. the ones available will either work for 15 minutes only, or go multiple hours but cost a kidney.

WTF are you on about? Even my obnoxiously power-hungry modem only draws 48W at peak. Even the smallest of UPSs typically house a 12V, 4.5-5Ah battery. That's enough to power my shitty modem, at peak draw, for an hour straight if you run the UPS dry (which you shouldn't, it's terrible for the battery). Much longer than that if the modem is just idling.

[Anonymous No.2773892]

>>2773883
He lives in a third world country, or California.

[Anonymous No.2773901]

>>2773890
Seriously. I have a 3000va ups for my nas that was a bit pricey but a lesser 825va for my router and modem and it powers them for at least an hour on a battery that’s gotta be two+ years old at this point. It was like $100. Dunno if op is looking for a $10 solution or what

Also if you’re even a little handy you can sometimes get a large ups for a good price by buying the shell of an old one with dead batteries and getting new batteries. That’s how I got my nas ups, which while still a bit pricey was significantly cheaper than buying new. Just make sure you look up replacement batteries before you buy bc sometimes they’re not so bad and sometimes they’re crazy expensive depending on the model. Also depends really on where you live as shipping this things makes the savings kind of pointless even with the batteries removed

[Anonymous No.2773907]

>>2773874
>since i'll have to switch the power plug from AC to power bank each time

if you have the balls for it, you can make a simple switch-over circuit using just two 5-cent diodes
it's called a ''wired-or'' scheme, or ''parallel power supply'' scheme
if one supply goes off, the other takes over instantaneously
you just have to make sure the battery voltage is a tad lower than the transformer voltage, so the transformer is the main supplier
you can purposely lower the battery voltage by adding a second or third diode in series with it
each diode drops voltage by 0.7V

[Anonymous No.2773923]

>>2773880
neither are available here
>>2773883
austerity measures
>>2773892
thank you
>>2773901
>and it powers them for at least an hour
that's my second option, but it still wouldn't be enough for the two and half hour mark.
>>2773907
that's exactly what i need. is there any ready options for it, or should i invest time in learning basic circuitry, and soldering?

[Anonymous No.2773951]

>>2773874
one thing you may not realize is that if your power goes out, your internet may go out to.

a company I worked for spent a pile of money on UPS's only to find out that the internet went down when power went out.

[Anonymous No.2773954]

>>2773874
I bought a UPS and hooked it up to a deep cycle battery. kept power up for over an hour don't know how long because I always shut stuff down as soon as I could. this was for my server and all my network equipment.

[Anonymous No.2773955]

>>2773874
You want a BU3DC001-12V Rev B (Belkin). They are $20 used on ebay. They have a standard 5.5mm barrell connector that plugs directly into your router, and an 'I don't give a shit' unpolarized plug for your wall.

Ask the seller to dump the battery and adjust the shipping accordingly (even if it's 'free shipping') - unless he can power it up and KNOW it's good. Otherwise, you're paying 3x by weight, for shipping for a battery that is likely dead. The unit itself, is incredibly light and small.

Swap out the 12v 7ah SLA battery if you need more runtime. It uses standard 1/4" spade connectors. The hatch pops off on the back and then you can run your leads from your monster 12v battery into it. [see link]

Your router probably pulls 12w nominally. The unit has a 36w max draw. That's 36w for 1 hr. A new 12v 7ah battery will give you max 3 hrs of runtime: 12*3.5=36 watts more or less, with a margin as the cells age. Lead acids can be drained to 50%, beyond that you seriously start compromising the lifetime of the cells.

It will NOT work with LFPo, which can be drained near 100%. Something about internal cell resistance that the verification circuit routine (self-test) doesn't like. APC UPS and other brands seem to be OK with the conversion, see thread. Any SLA (sealed lead acid) is fine. Like a 33ah.

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/replacing-ups-lead-acid-batt-w-lifepo4.34621/post-1010779

[Anonymous No.2773956]

>>2773874
the simplest UPS is a 12 volt SLA battery hooked directly to your device with a battery minder connected to the battery.

the device always runs off the battery and the battery minder keeps the battery charged.

[Anonymous No.2773958]

>>2773956
No, not directly, because the battery at times will go to 14.5v during absorb phase, and that may be too much for the router. They can tolerate up to around 13.8v without damage.

The Belkin I suggested above, regulates it's DC output to 12.4v.

Could you put a board to regulate the output, after the battery and before the router? Yes. I have such a board and have done that for certain DC only circuits. But if he has grid power, it won't look as nice as the $20 belkin.

[Anonymous No.2773960]

>>2773958
ok so put a buck converter between the battery and the device. costs only a few dollars.

[Anonymous No.2773961]

>>2773923
I reread your post:
> austerity measures

Oh you mean it's fuck you time? Yep. Damn you must be in BFE. Sorry to hear that. You may have to rig something up then like the other posters suggested.

Suggest moving somewhere else less despotic, OP.

[Anonymous No.2773972]

>>2773874
>>2773923
>power outages
Before you spend money on anything, have you made sure your last mile/wan isn't powered by the same source as your house?

[Anonymous No.2773973]

>>2773972
>>2773951
OP hasn't answered to that yet.

[Anonymous No.2773987]

>>2773972
>>2773951
yes i made sure. the internet receives separate power.

>>2773961
>Oh you mean it's fuck you time?
no, that was last year. now it's "dead body fuck party" time.

>>2773955
>BU3DC001-12V
i looked it up, it's not available. but thank you for your suggestion.

picrel are the only two options i found locally. with cp12036Li unavailable.

[Anonymous No.2774026]

Back-UPS 1500 with a second battery chassis is gonna power an internet router for many hours if not several days. It won't run your entire setup, unless you're on a low-draw laptop, but it'll keep your IP address.
The cost doesn't seem worth it though, for the sake of not having to sign back into discord or whatever.

[Anonymous No.2774050]

>>2773874
A full sized desktop UPS, you are losing power for hours.
Look for Cyberpower ones.

[Anonymous No.2774060]

>>2773987
>egp
So that wasn't a joke.
Can you do aliexpress? Are old cables, 18650s or other types of LiPo available locally?
You don't need special tools for >>2773907 albeit a soldering iron and solder would help making it a bit cleaner. That said we would need some kind of idea what we're working with here first.

[Anonymous No.2774066]

>>2773955
This
I have a gateway on Verizon and a second one on AT&T.
I got two of the Belkin units free from rentoids who moved out and left them.
I replaced the battery in one of them in January.
It was $20 + tax shipped free.
I use a laptop for internet. If the power goes out, the internet stays on and the laptop just runs on it's internal battery.

[Anonymous No.2774067]

>>2773987
>>BU3DC001-12V
>i looked it up, it's not available. but thank you for your suggestion.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266723767227

[Anonymous No.2774098]

>>2773951
This is the case for me except it’s staggered. I assume whatever infrastructure powers my local internet node thing is on some kind of backup power that lasts 4 hours because if we lose power for more than 4 hours the internet goes out every time. We live in an area with frequent power outages where tons of people have generators and such so you’d think they’d beef that up a bit but nope

>>2773923
Yeah that’s powering my router and modem with the dinky 825va that has an old kind of worn battery. If you want massive up time get a serious ups. A 1500 or 2000va should power that minimal of a load for ages unless you have some goofy router setup where you’re using an entire ass pc

[Anonymous No.2774101]

>>2773892
i think you mean texas?

[Anonymous No.2774121]

>>2773874
I deploy these at my workplace to remote sites that run off a GSM router, this keeps the vpn up.

It will run for 35 hours
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07H8F5HYJ

[Anonymous No.2774133]

>>2773923
YX850 has like essential 5 parts, you can order electronic components right?
If you have guaranteed power for one or two hours a day just get a big 12V battery , run off that, and manually switch to line power+charging when you have power and the battery is empty. You’d only need to charge weekly with a big enough battery

[Anonymous No.2774147]

>>2773987
Ebay bro. Used. Find someone that will remove the battery / ship it without, then it's light and small. Some seller that sends stuff overseas.

[Anonymous No.2774150]

>>2774133
Why bother masking your shitpost as serious reply?

[Anonymous No.2774152]

>>2773960
It's a little tricky to find that particular board, but even so, you must like wires everywhere. Yes, you can stick in a project box, and when you are done it's going to be the same price, plus your time.

>>2774066
His real problem is he is staying on shitbergstein and needs to move. Also seemingly has no creativity or natural impetus to adapt and overcome. NGMI. That is called having an utter lack of life skills. OP don't be mad: we are all ignorant of something. But you need to overcome the ignorance to the particular needful issues going on around you, and the apparent lack of drive that your parents left you with.

I read many threads, with young males in apartments that need to get the fuck out of the city and be a ranch hand for awhile, learn homesteading skills, and not be so utterly incapable and dependent like a baby on a teat.

[Anonymous No.2774160]

>>2774121
>>2773955
>>2773874
Somewhat unrelated to OP, but does someone know a neat alternative to these coming with a terminal instead of 12V connector without having to use pic rel?

[Anonymous No.2774174]

>>2774160
>alternative to these coming with a terminal instead of 12V connector

pls rephrase question so it make sense.

[Anonymous No.2774180]

>>2774174
A LiPo backup with screw terminals ootb..

[Anonymous No.2774182]

>>2774160
18AWG 20pcs Male DC Power Pigtail Cable, 12V 5A DC Connectors for CCTV Security Camera, router etc (standard 2.1mm x 5.5mm, thick cable) brand 'MILPEAK' https://a.co/d/agf4LPM

There's a female version too. E.G. I used 1 female into 2 males to build a splitter for the Belkin mentioned above. 1x male runs to the local router, and 1 into a poor man's PoE splitter, to send power along with ethernet on Cat 5e to a remote router configured as an AP to extend the wifi range. It does limit the bandwidth of the ethernet to 100mb/s because one of the pairs, probably brown, are used to carry the 12v DC, and not available at either end for data.

Also, literally any 12v power supply at a bin at a thrift store. Cut off the end.

>>2774174
It made enough sense given the context.

[sage No.2774191]

>>2773955
I was this anon.
>>2773958
And this one.
>>2774152
And this one...

>>2773960
I woke up and thought about the OP anon's post and an easier way to do it, keeping in mind that any trickle charger / 1.5amp is going to drive a common lead-acid battery to 14.5 volts, conservatively, for a period of time (absorb) if it's any kind of decent charger. The charger is probably NOT going to do desulfation/equalization, cause most cheap trickle chargers do not. That would drive the voltage even higher, if that was the case.

Given that OP is clueless, I had to come up with a knuckledragger solution. What's the average IQ on egypt? 80? Seems like it. Too much sub-saharan or other admixture. You guys used to be smart in antiquity.

Get some standard diodes, like off a rectifier bridge. There will be 4 of them on the donor board arranged back and forth, clustered near each other, usually with some capacitors for smoothing. Remove them, cluster them together in the same direction, with the white band towards negative output of the battery. All you are doing is taking your cut-off power supply cable from your DC adapter, and adding these on the non-striped side. The strip is the inner part, the pure black is the outer (negative) barrel.

You're not concerned about power flowing backwards. What the diodes will do is drop the voltage by 0.7v, from a maximum of 14.5 to 13.8, so you don't overvoltage your router.

>>2773907
as this anon mentioned but with a different use.

You'll need:
a battery (lead acid),
a trickle charger,
diodes,
a cut-off power cable to plug into your router.

[Anonymous No.2774239]

>>2774160
no, you can just get ones that are premoulded with a bit of wire which you splice onto your run.
splicing the wire is whatever, top tip, on one end, cut the positive wire 3cm shorter than the negative wire, on the other end, cut the negative wire 3cm shorter than the positive.
this way when you solder the wires together, the positive joint is 3cm away from the negative joint and the splice is physically thinner

[Anonymous No.2774243]

>>2773883
That's what third world countries are like.
Best start getting used to the idea.
It's coming to the west sooner than you think.

[Anonymous No.2774246]

>>2773874

I have worked at 2 WISPs and we modified off the shelf UPS units to keep our hardware alive. Just get a 900VA UPS and plug only your router and modem on it and they will last hours. We used 1500VA units to run wireless nodes for up to 2 hours before we started adding larger batteries.

>>2773951
>>2773972
What is the service you are using? local nodes are usually tied to the local power service and can sometimes go down even if you power your CPE devices in your house.

>>2774243
only a problem if you haven't invested in local power generation like a scrub

[Anonymous No.2774247]

>>2774243
cool, not op or this thread but I dont give a fuck. almost everything I own runs off 12v off a bunch of car batteries I have connected to some solar panels.
the power goes out, i dont even notice. I laugh in the face of others because my fridge is cold and my internet is on and my computer works

[Anonymous No.2774266]

OP wants to build a UPS but worse, instead of just buying a UPS.

A wi-fi router box will draw 5-20 watts. A 1200VA, 780W UPS that runs for 20 minutes (this depends on the chemistry of the battery) has 260 Wh. So it will run the router for 13-52 hours. It will also stay charged, and have a USB interface that will tell you the state of the battery and projected time on battery.

But I guess why would OP want to do this the simple way when they can kludge together a worse solution.

[Anonymous No.2774467]

>>2774266
Yeah, that "15 minutes" thing is if you're trying to run your gaming computer and fancy monitor off of it, just a modem and router should get about 170 minutes.

[Anonymous No.2774561]

Easy. Find a battery that is rated the same voltage. Plug battery heads to charger. Plug router to battery heads.

[Anonymous No.2774683]

>>2773874
APC 1500 UPS will last a couple hours if an internet router is all you power from it. Batteries cost about $30 if you know where to get them. I have a few and I'd give you one if you lived next door. Typically SOHO offices will trash them once they start beeping because they can't be bothered with hiring a guy to replace the battery when a brand new one is not much more expensive.

[Anonymous No.2774687]

>>2773987
>yes I made sure
The other anon did not mean "whoops we forgot to put the cable modem on the UPS lol kek" but that the ISP gear in the pole outside did not have backup power, or some other thing out of their control. If you have rolling blackouts regularly, chances are that the ISP will not bother replacing the now worn-out batteries, and that they might last significantly shorter than yours, say 15 or 30 mins.

[Anonymous No.2774713]

>>2774687
ISPes assume that no one is using the internet during a black out because computers don't work during a black out.

[Anonymous No.2774719]

>>2774713
This is ridiculous. A lot of the cell phone infrastructure relies on internet backbone, even more so with 5G. My ISP installs an UPS on every utility pole and in all concrete pad cabinets.

[Anonymous No.2774745]

>>2774719
this. telco dc provisions standards are typically 8hr runtime.

[Anonymous No.2774896]

>>2773874
this is my current setup thus far. i just need a better way to switch between the adapter and the power bank, without having to unplug the power cables repeatedly. is there any way to do that? the power bank relies on a step up cable to convert voltage from 5v to 12v.

[Anonymous No.2774899]

>>2774896
why don't you get a power bank as already suggested, where the bank is continuously plugged into your charger?

ngmi

[Anonymous No.2775012]

>>2774899
limited options.

[Anonymous No.2775198]

>>2773874
>power outages which will last 1-2.5 hours
You need a UPS that will last you sufficient time to start a generator, and then have enough fuel to keep it humming until power is back.

[Anonymous No.2775237]

>>2774719
>This is ridiculous
not for consumer class cable.

[Anonymous No.2775238]

>>2774246
>What is the service you are using?
at that time it was cox business, and after they found out that cox went down during power outage, they setup a failover using century link. it ended up that we just could not guarantee the server uptime our client needed and moved everything to a real datacenter.

[Anonymous No.2775244]

>>2774713
My cable ISP definitely works during a blackout.

Nobody has landlines anymore, internet needs to be working.

[Anonymous No.2775300]

>>2773880
I used an ecoflow battery to power a router during a black out in Mexico and it worked still.

[Anonymous No.2775378]

>>2775237
You must live in the boonies. Small businesses here use the same infrastructure and they love being told from the ISP that the system is backed by an 8+ hour battery. It saves them from paying a competitor for a backup cell phone connection.

[Anonymous No.2775396]

>>2773907
This is exactly how i power my stuff. And you can use one bridge rectifier for this for even easier no-solder connecting. Works flawlessly.

[Anonymous No.2775397]

>>2774101
Found the Califag!

[Anonymous No.2775398]

>>2774066
>Belkin
Never again.

[Anonymous No.2775410]

>>2775398
Bruh, these are OEM'd somewhere. It doesn't matter if it says BELKIN. They work.
>>2775396
If you have e.g. a 12.5v and a 13v power source, the load will favor drawing from the 13 unless the 13 loses power?

[Anonymous No.2775420]

>>2775410
Correct. The load will always use the highest voltage automatically and the voltages will not interfere with eachother.

Another option is pic related. You need just one diode bridge for this. The battery will be float charged by the power supply and will take over if the power goes out. Just use an old car battery for this. It can overcome your hour without power. You may need to adjust the 14V slightly up or down. Don't put the battery in a non-ventilated area!

[Anonymous No.2775421]

>>2773874
Car batteries and a power inverter.
You'd only need a 200 watt at best.
Whose setup should cost about 300 for 2 batteries used a trickle charger and an inverter.

[Anonymous No.2775432]

If the router is 12V DC, then just get a deep cycle lead acid battery (not a car starting battery, something like what's actually inside UPS's) and a 12V trickle charger that puts out more amperage than the router consumes. Wire the router's power cord right to the battery and hook up the trickle charger to the battery as well. When there's power, the charger will do run the router and keep the battery topped up, when there's no power the battery will feed the router. Wala.

[Anonymous No.2775716]

>>2774896
i'm still trying to connect the router to both a power bank and the wall adapter, so it switches power from one source to the other when outages happen, but i've never worked with electrical wiring, and i'm afraid of burning the house down.

on amazon i can get male / female dc cables, as well as diodes to prevent power going in the opposite direction. but no clue on how to make it all happen. help is appreciated as always.

[Anonymous No.2775786]

>>2775716
>no clue

you already have a proper schematic
you just gotta turn it into a pictorial representation by replacing parts with pics of the components
something like the pic attached
i could do that for you in 2 minutes, but i'm lazy and apathetic
but if you do it, and post pic on /ohm/ or /mcg/ sub-boards, somebody will check it for you
then you'd cut, strip, tape all the necessary connections and be done
however, you'd probably need a voltmeter to verify all the positives and negatives are in the right place
and that the battery voltage (under load) is less than the transformer voltage (under load)

[Anonymous No.2775971]

>>2775421
Most of those little inverters are modified sine wave, and therefore crap. No sense in going AC just to go back to DC, either. And honestly, your approach has already been mentioned several times to OP.

>>2775432
See all the previous posts mentioning that while FLOAT voltage is 13.8, ABSORB voltage is higher. Hence if you pay attention to all the excellent posts before you, that basically said 'use the voltage drop inherent in a diode', via a diode bridge, doing so will solve several issues present in your proposed circuit, ser.

[Anonymous No.2775973]

>>2775716
You are so unlikely to burn anything down at all, with such small loads. Use fuses (2amp car fuses on the DC legs), and no thicker than 18g wire (you can look up the metric cross section equivalent).

You can get real fuseholders, or spade connector female ends can be made to work with standard sized car fuses. If you DIY a fuseholder, a tip is to use electrical tape, to wrap the in/out wires in such a way that they stay in place. I'm giving you the jankiest advice but you seem beyond dirt poor.

[Anonymous No.2777532]

Pic related. For the diodes, 1N5404 is probably good. For the resistor 2.2Ω 10W seems sensible. For the battery, 6 18650s in a 3S2P configuration, maybe 3S3P if you need more life out of them, 3S1P might be enough. If balancing is a concern, put some 4.3V zener diodes (1N4731) might prevent a fire. A better circuit using TL431s might be in order if you need something better.

Also pretty sure there's nothing in the router that can handle 12V but can't handle 15V.

[Anonymous No.2777534]

>>2777532
Oh and because it only charges the cells up to 4V each, it should last way more cycles than a power bank. So long as you have enough capacity to stop it dipping below 3.2V or so.

[Anonymous No.2777739]

>>2777534
>as you have enough capacity to stop it dipping below 3.2V or so

in other words, the first time you lose power for an extended period, you kill all your batteries
sounds like a fatal flaw in the design

[Anonymous No.2777955]

>>2777739
Design it to last 3-5 hours, never get a power cut longer than 2.5 hours, I don't see a problem. If a longer power cut happens no more than every 5 years, that sounds like acceptable battery longevity. Adding protection would make the circuit more complex, but he could absolutely put a tl431 and mosfet in there, or just buy a chinky balance bms board.

[Anonymous No.2778710]

>>2773874
my bro ran his skytesla satelight thing on my 500watt battery it pulled 70 watts
so last like 4 hrs

just get a 800 watt solar panel and a 12v battery
u can run in deffinetly

[Anonymous No.2779107]

>>2773874
>$3 VPN
>choose dedicated IP

[Anonymous No.2779138]

>>2773874
Your IP is issued by the ISP not the router, your router only assigns local network IPs to individual devices.

Yes you can totally run a router off any commercial back up power supply, but that's probably not your issue unless you're trying to run 8 hour AOE Forrest nothing LANs

You can ask your ISP to give you a fixed IP address, when there is a power outage they should give you the same IP back. They're just not putting your old IP back in the pool so nobody else gets it.
But you may find that websites still force users who disconnect to relog, obviously to stop a hacker DDosing you, taking your public IP/spoofing and logging into your accounts.

One option might be to use a mobile signal to login and use that as a fixed IP in a power outage.
Could you get enough bandwidth? Probably not. But you could operate a discord that way.
You could screen share a laptop through your phone to maintain a connection, while gaming or whatever through your regular internet using OBS. Lot of fucking around, probably wouldn't help you much unless the login IP issue is related to one time creds... like using a phone as chat admin while streaming on a laptop

I'd request a fixed IP, but recognise that you've got a thirdie infrastructure problem you can't fix from home.

[Anonymous No.2779142]

>>2774121
>GSM router
oh god

[Anonymous No.2779289]

>>2773874
>my IP address changes when i lose power, forcing me to reconfirm my email on discord
things which never happen

[Anonymous No.2779290]

>>2779138
>You can ask your ISP to give you a fixed IP address
Most wont give you one for free
> taking your public IP/spoofing and logging into your accounts.
Websites usually use cookies and not your IP address to identify you.

[Anonymous No.2779354]

>>2773874
Haha, he uses Shitcord....

[Anonymous No.2779416]

>>2773874
didn't read thread so sry if this was said 15 times

>forcing me to reconfirm my email on discord
Something else is going on here. Either you have some extended security activated or it's something else.

>but cost a kidney
how much is a kidney worth to you? one time I nigger rigged my own online (always on inverter, not internet) UPS that would power my whole bedroom for about 2 hours with about $350 of equipment. My bedroom has a power efficient lamp (~4 watts), small power efficient fan (5 watts), my desktop computer with 2 screens (average <100 watts, max 300), a medium size TV and a Roku (about 40 watts). I could double my run time for ~$130 by adding a 2nd deep cycle battery in parallel.

Basically all I did was took a 14v DC power supply at 10 amps, connected the DC-out into the solar panel terminal on the charge controller, put the battery on the battery terminals of the controller and the load on the battery. I Probly shoulda put a fuse in there somewhere but it worked. The DC power supply was too small but I don't normally run my shit at full power consumption (meter showed typically ~100 watts), and even if I did, it was only a few minutes here and there, so it was good enough. I shut all my stuff off at night or put it in sleep mode, so a lot more watts went to charging the battery when I was away.

It worked exactly as I expected. The only way I'd ever notice the power was out is if I happen to notice the DC power supply LED was not lit up, or I go to another room and see there is no power. That being said, I only rolled this way for like a month and nothing got fried or caught fire, so I dunno how long term would work out. I'm sure a much smaller setup for just a router and modem could be rigged for much cheaper, especially since you probably won't need an inverter.