Yet another tool brand thread

[Anonymous No.2773873]

I have a set of stanley brand batteries a charger and a drill and now I'm looking into getting a few more tools for my home. Problem is stanley is a dead brand, at least here where I'm at.
There's nothing in stores, there's almost nothing online and even if I managed to find something I don't think the dewalt dealers here will work with a stanley warranty.
Do I just sell my drill and batteries and start over? Or use adapters and buy dewalt or something?
What would you gents recommend?

[Anonymous No.2773899]

>>2773873
These threads are not useless, battery deprecation, incompatibility, and switcharoos with cheap chinese cells after the initial reviews are in are very common problems, you’ll face them every fucking year now if you’re a heavy power tool user.

[Anonymous No.2774055]

>>2773873
Regardless of what tool brand you buy into you should learn to rebuild packs. A $40 spot welder on ali express and learning how to identify what cells make up the pack will basically keep the tools running indefinitely. Or save the $40 and buy cells with tabs installed for a few dollars more. Or solder directly to the cells but be warned that if you don’t work extremely quickly the cells will explode and even if you do work quickly the heat transfer will degrade the cell and make it perform worse.
At least until manufacturers pull apple bullshit and start including ICs that communicate with other ICs on the tool to indicate how many cycles a pack has gone through and to permanently disable a pack once it hits a “dangerous” amount but afaik no one does this (yet)

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2774057]

>>2773873
Man I wonder if there’s any possible way the Porter Cable packs fit. That’s for you to google, then you could possibly expand your dead brand into a dyng brand as well

>>2773899
>very common problems
Only if you buy the Walmart or Costco special. It should be assumed that you’re buying the thing for the life of the battery if there’s no option to buy a spare battery alone when the tool was sold to you.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2774059]

>>2774057
>>2773873
Fwiw, the PC batteries could possibly fit. Stanley Black & Decker has compatibility between some other brands. Like IIRC, the Mac cordless tools and this industrial grease gun (Lincoln?) and possibly some other 20V tools from across the company’s portfolio actually fit DeWalt 20V packs.

[Anonymous No.2774156]

>>2774057
>>2774059
Yeah my quick research showed that there might be some compatible brands to the batteries I have, but the problem is basically the same. I can't get those tools here.
Basically I have to choose between makita dewalt or milwaukee.

[Anonymous No.2774179]

>>2773873
I went with metabo
They don't make as much stupid shit as others so I'm less tempted to buy i.e. a battery powered coffee maker or boombox.

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2774181]

>>2774156
A lot of Yuros do Parkside or Einhell. They’re about the same tier as the Stanley. Too bad you Yuros don’t get Ryobi, it’s such a giant lineup and the batteries have been backwards compatible for like 2-3 decades now, and DeWalt is super expensive.

If you want to keep the drill running, just look for some Chinesium packs on Yuro Amazon or EBay, especially if the Porter Cable packs fit, there’s tons of knockoffs of those.

>>2774179
I friggin love the Ryobi versions of that random ass stuff. Plus when you buy a good Bluetooth speaker and use it daily, the battery will probably be the first thing to go and you can never really replace them. That’s not an issue if you get a power tool brand, also great for storm season for people like me that are in Hurricane country.

[Anonymous No.2774188]

>>2774181
Actually I've never seen neither parkside nor einhell tools here, but ryobi is everywhere.
I do own a single ryobi tool, a two stroke brush cutter. But I swore I'll never buy another ryobi thing because the piece of shit practically self disassembled after 5min use.

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2774189]

>>2774188
Meanwhile I run some Ryobi 18V with yard work every week and it’s been solid for me. Plus tons of boomer neighbors use the stuff and have all been happy. Only issue I have seen was the cheap 5.5” circ saw that comes in the $129 starter kit, the thing stopped working for my neighbor like the 2nd time he used it and he gave it to me for free. It was a bad trigger from the factory I guess, ordered a new one for $10 and she works fine now.

[Anonymous No.2774198]

>>2774189
Perhaps it's just the gas stuff, or was assembled by third world monkey.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2774367]

>>2774198
Ryobi 2-stroke stuff and generators is generally real close to homelite or poulan or craftsman, just one of those weekender brands before you take the jump up to Echo or Stihl for even more money. Sounds like you got a dud straight from the factory, but at least that shit is normally covered and can be replaced easily, although some stores are a pain once you put gas into an engine

[Anonymous No.2774568]

>>2774367
Yeah, I went straight back to the store and said I want to return it. All they said was no return since I've already started it and I should have it warrantied which can take up to 4 weeks. This alone is a dealbreaker for ryobi for me.

I ended up just reassembling it with locktite myself, been running ok ever since.

[Anonymous No.2774690]

>Just moved into my first house so now I have an excuse to actually use my tools.
How is the quality of modern Craftsman tools? I would always get craftsman tools as gifts as a kid, now I have a toolbox with a bunch of them. Worth sticking with the platform?

[Anonymous No.2774700]

>>2774690
No, craftsman is terrible

[Anonymous No.2774701]

>>2774700
What's the issue?

[Anonymous No.2774722]

>>2774690
>>2774700
>>2774701
Craftsman is fine. for 90% of people it's enough. warranty through lowes, plenty of tools, cheap batteries. I'd say they're about on par with buying kobalt or ridgid. their hand tools if you find the ones made in taiwan instead of china are good too.

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2774817]

>>2774690
The hand tools? Totally fine for DIYer stuff. I don’t think the USA stuff was significantly better, it’s more of a boomer meme. It’s on par with all of the other mid ranges Taiwan stuff. If you try to go cheaper, it will be budget HF crap that will mangle parts, but to take a step up on most tools will cost twice as much to get a ~10% improvement in performance. There’s a couple tools you may want to spend more on, certain pliers and maybe a nicer set of screwdrivers, but that’s something you do when you go from “weekender” to “handyman”

As far as cordless, it’s fine for DIY duty, but you’re better off with Ryobi because they’re the same quality but their lineup is wayyyyy bigger. The Craftsman 20V line is pretty limited.

[Anonymous No.2774818]

>>2773873
>at least here where I'm at
i just looooove this thing people outside the anglosphere do because it makes you sound so cool and elusive and means we get to play a fun game where we never get to give relevant answers!

[Anonymous No.2774841]

>>2774722
China can make stuff of an arbitrarily high quality. Higher, in fact, than the U.S. because they now have all the skilled craftsman, all the manufacturing equipment, and few regulations on things like environmental impacts. This is why it’s not a matter of quality, per se, it’s that the U.S. can’t really make anything at all. Not a drill, not a li-ion cell, not an injection molded case…nothing.

The problem is you don’t want to pay for it.

[Anonymous No.2775022]

>>2774055
>afaik no one does this (yet)
Don't Makita batteries kind of do this? They blow a fuse when the battery pack fails to charge for whatever reason, so even if you rebuild it you need a new chip or some such.

[Anonymous No.2775176]

>>2775022
If your battery has more than a positive and negative terminal, it's probably has it.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2775182]

>>2775022
>>2775176
I think almost all of the packs have a fused part, but you would have to short the thing out pretty damn good to blow those fuses. It’s quite a large fuse to the point where you shouldn’t blow it from running a tool real hard, only if you jam a thick ass wire between the + and -.

The Makita thing is like a software/chip I think. Any BMS should have a low voltage cutoff, but they will do a super slow charge or you can jump them and trick them to get back above the min voltage cutoff. But I guess the Makita thing sees it ran too low once and tells the pack to forever go into protection mode, even if you bring the cell voltage back up by other means.

[Anonymous No.2775536]

>>2773873
>tool brand thread
Just the thread I was looking for!
Frens, I’m gonna get blacked… err blued. Took me a long time to decide, but this vid (https://youtube.com/watch?v=4iwHb189X84)) sealed the deal. I’m getting Bosch blue.
But who the fuck thinks up their package deals? A huge ass impact drill, a small hand drill and another small hand drill (that does impact too). Just why? How about a drill, a multi tool and jigsaw, or any combination of cordless tools that make sense to get started?

[Anonymous No.2775550]

>>2775536
Pakage deals are for new housewives that (while well intentioned) get their husband these tools before starting in on their 75-year journey to pay off their mortgage.
Like 99% of the time for everyone else they already have one or more of these things making it pointless.

[Anonymous No.2775554]

>>2775022
Fundamental difference in approach and you could either replace the control electronics (more costly, potentially hard to source) or just the relevant components that were wrecked (cheap, also potentially hard to source or very easy depending on what components). So change the fuse/chip. Learn to solder, wuss. The difference with apple shit is the battery management ic is encrypted and paired to the phones logic board so swapping the battery only won’t work. the ic will still report to the phone that it’s an old ass battery and manage it like it’s one because you can’t reset it due to the encryption. You can’t swap the ic out due to the parts pairing with the logic board. This works for apple because they generally don’t expect you to replace the battery in the phone at all but a drill you replace the battery by design. It can be defeated outright on some models with chinese programmers and mitm attacks where you put an additional chip inline between the battery ic and the motherboard. Afaik there’s no way to do the 15 but i haven’t checked in a little while. I’m sure they could attempt something but given that a drill doesn’t have the level of complexity that a smartphone does they’re kind of kneecapped to a degree. Unless they start selling drills that have smartphone apps or some dumb shit, don’t buy those if that ever happens bc the only reason they’ll add that is for features like this (and also because that’s so fucking stupid)

[Anonymous No.2775572]

>>2775550
I don’t have anything yet, since I’m a new housewife…err homeowner, so a package absolutely makes sense, and they seem to be quite good deals, just looking at the money side, but the deal isn t that good if I buy three tools, of which I only really need one.

[Anonymous No.2776856]

>Ryobi
WTF? I just learned that they’re originally a japanase brand. Superior folded 900p times!
And I almost bought Milwaukee. Phew, Crisis averted.

[Anonymous No.2776867]

>>2776856
> ryobi is japanese
Who knows at this point.
As far as I know they’re owned by TTI which is, I think, a Taiwanese company, and they make some stuff in Vietnam for sure, and most likely elsewhere.

[Bepperoni No.2776888]

>>2776856
Noice

Glorious dark blue and yellow Ryobi is so reliable that they kept the batteries the same so people could continue to run their 20 year old Ryobi sawzall.

[Anonymous No.2777065]

>>2776856
Modern Ryobi's a good DIYer brand, but you never see them on a job site for a reason.

[Anonymous No.2777073]

>>2777065
> reason never seen on a job site
Ou know what I always see on very job site tho? Lots of beer, and empty beer cans.
Maybe trusting group of people who have given up on life to select quality tool brands (that all come out of the exact same factory) isn’t the best strategy.

>>2776888
> those are not masonry bits
Did you label those yourself with your wife’s craft labeller, or did it come like that? I just happen to know what they look like, so I don’t need the indicators, nor do I need to read the instruction manual these probably came with.

[Anonymous No.2777106]

>>2777073
Look a bit higher in the pic, dipshit, the masonry bits are right there.

Yeah, why trust people who make their living off the tools' opinion, right?

Ryobi's fine if you want to slap together a shed on the weekend or hang some shelves.

[Anonymous No.2777129]

>>2777106
> Look a bit higher in the pic, dipshit
Whoa man… hey I wasn’t in charge of labelling that thing. My job is to tell you whether it was right or wrong. (It was wrong).

t. nat gas inspector

[Anonymous No.2777135]

>>2777129
>Standard bit label to the left, brad point label over it, masonry bit label right under the masonry bits
Not my fault you're blind, just accept the L and move on.

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2777222]

>>2777073
>>2777106
Hey, the end user will hopefully figure it out eventually when the regular bit is totally rekt and they haven’t gone more than 1/4” into the concrete.

[Anonymous No.2777224]

>>2776856
ryobi and milwaukee are both made by the same company, techtronic.

like all chinktools, which every battery system tool today is, there is no telling what youre actually getting. just pick your favorite color.

[Anonymous No.2777225]

>>2773873
You can buy battery adapters so you don't need to buy new tools.

[Anonymous No.2777234]

>>2777224
They have the same parent company, they definitely do not use the same parts.

[Anonymous No.2777247]

>>2777224
>ryobi and milwaukee are both made by the same company, techtronic.
So were the Chevy Vega and the Olds 442 (GM)

[Anonymous No.2777279]

>>2777234
Definitely.
> cha-ching… 50 cents for the TTI shill army right there.

[Anonymous No.2777318]

>>2777247
In 2008, the Ford Fusion, the Range Rover, and the Jaguar XJ were all made by the same company.

[Anonymous No.2777320]

>>2777279
Your post mentions nothing about milwaukee

[Anonymous No.2777322]

>>2777225
This thread is filled with retards, but you take the cake.

[Anonymous No.2777351]

>>2777320
It’s still the same factory.
It’s like running a company 101… the first thing you do is cut costs, and the first way you do it is by reducing the number of unique parts which can be mass produced by automation so you can fire the actual people that conceive, design, build production facilities for, test, and certify all those unique parts.

The only thing that needs to change is the plastic overmolding designs and colors which should technically come out of the marketing budget because that’s what gives the uninitiated consumer the illusion of choice.

Even SB&D and TTI probably source the actual motors from the same couple of companies in mainland china, so even across the corporate ownership level, they’re often the same parts.

Some countries (japan and korea come to mind) have specific initiatives where they retain the native ability to make something like a drill. Thats where the purple made in japan stuff comes from. It’s actually made in japan including the silicon steel used for the motor laminations.

I doubt—even if you put all manufacturing facilities in the U.S. together—that they could produce a drill. It’s already known that the U.S.’s combined capabilites can’t make a cellphone tower or a cellphone. And that’s embarrassing.

[Anonymous No.2777354]

>>2777318
Yes, if you looked at a ford escape back in the day, it was a slightly hacked (the body design) mazda tribute with mostly the same parts. Same vehicle.
Since then, they’ve gotten even better at it.
But it takes some time after the acquisitions or mergers to consolidate operations into one big thing.

[Anonymous No.2777383]

Now, butter by ze fishes, as the Germans say, is Ryobi good for you?
Bauforum24 really doesn’t like them
>https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OQlGEL7McPE
But this vid is 7 years old. Did they fix the many issues the thing he has obviously does have?
I’d love to have >muh contractor quality tools, but pic related is quite tempting. Especially since I really could use more than half of the set, while most other sets are 80% useless for me.

[Anonymous No.2777389]

>>2777351
Keep trying to convince yourself that tools which objectively perform different and objectively have different service lives are all the same.
Youve broken the code, youve found the buried treasure, you outsmarted everyone!
You bought green and saved all that money for the same thing, right? Right??

lel

[Anonymous No.2777391]

>>2777354
The ford escape and the mazda tribute are the same car, as was the B2300 and the Ford Ranger.
Just like the Geo Metro was a Corolla, the FRS and the BRZ, the DSM cars, nissan and Mitsubishi etc etc.

These were joint ventures between two separate companies to design and sell similar sometimes identical platforms together to cut down RD and tooling costs. Its common.

This would be like if Makita and TTI released a set of tools together under a joint partnership.
Seems real relevant.

[Anonymous No.2777399]

>>2777383
A real furzefan would have already bought Ryobi

[Anonymous No.2777400]

>>2777383
Also stop listening to youtubers, listen to the real reviews from the people.

[Anonymous No.2777407]

>>2777391
> joint partnership
It’s nothing like that at all.
Do you really think that, say, honda engineers completely new and unique engine for every model and every year? Of course not.
Just like TTI has a couple of basic tool designs depending on what deal they did with one of the big three mainland china factories producing them.
They’re the same across all lines because they buy a lot of them. The more they buy that are identical, the cheaper it is. A typical brushless motor for a power tool is in the vicinity of $5.

[Bepperoni No.2777423]

>>2777383
They’re totally fine for DIYer duty. Everybody I know who actually uses Ryobi around the house has no issue with them. They’re not the best if you want to run them 40+ hours a week at work, but you’re obviously not trying to do that and they will give you years of fine operation using them every other weekend like most DIYers.

The only thing about that set, if it’s the 5.5” circular saw, have reasonable expectations for the little guy. You probably still want a corded or one of the HP Ryobi models to cut a lot of 2x material. Picrel shows the blade. I’m sure the angle grinder is rhe same, if you’re polishing stuff and running a cutoff wheel through some thinner metal, you will be fine, but it’s probably not going to take the abuse of an M18 Fuel with a 12.0 battery. Although that whole kit is probably about the price of an M18 12.0 battery.

As always, when you buy saws that come with a blade, throw that shit out and buy a better blade. The included blades almost always suck and good blades don’t cost much.

Also I just realized, goddamn they did a good job with that 18V subcompact 6.5”, the cut depth is about as deep as muh ol’ Craftsman 7.25”.

[Anonymous No.2777426]

>>2777399
Guess I’ll get the whole package then. >>2777400
But YouTube without audio is boring. Seriously though, I really like Bauforum24’s really thorough look at stuff, from which I can draw my own conclusions. And said conclusion is that ryobi from 7 years ago ain’t that great. But 2024 ryobi? I don’t know.
But at 199€, I’m really fucking tempted. Even if it breaks after a month, it probably beats fucking around with my corded hand-me-downs and maybe one “good” cordless tool.

[Bepperoni No.2777442]

>>2777426
>from 7 years ago ain’t that great
But what are they comparing it to? The newest Bosch Profactor or Milwaukee Fuel stuff? It’s apples and oranges, and those tools are triple the price and built to a different audience than the budget Ryobi kits. And the newest brushless Ryobi HP (which costs more than the tools you’re looking at) is probably far better than the last gen brushed non-Fuel/XR stuff from DeWalt and Milwaukee.

Listening to people on a towing forum say “That Honda Accord can’t tow a trailer in mud for shit! My Ferd F-350 shits on it for towing a 6000lb trailer uphill!” doesn’t mean the Honda Accord is a bad grocery getter.

I’ve seen a lot of old ass blue and yellow Ryobi tools still working just fine with fresh batteries, and those must be like 20 years old now.

[Anonymous No.2777461]

>>2777442
> But what are they comparing it to?
Other 7 year old tools

[Anonymous No.2777479]

>>2777407
>It’s nothing like that at all.
Its literally the definition of what the Tribute/Escape was or any of the other joint partnerships.
Thats why you are a retard for having posted it as an example because like I said its completely irrelevant to the discussion.

>Do you really think that, say, honda engineers completely new and unique engine for every model and every year?
Nope
They put their higher end engines and higher end transmissions into their higher end vehicles though

Since you want to talk about Honda, when you buy the cheaper AWD CRV, it comes with a 1.5l turbo 4cyl. It has a brake controlled torque vectoring differential.

>send power to rear differential for 4wd
>left tire needs more power, right brake caliper engages and only slows right wheel

Guess what?
You buy a Passport it comes with a naturally aspirated 285hp 3.5l V6.
Its AWD torque vectoring uses an advanced differential that has built in clutch packs with on demand give power to the wheel that needs it. No using the brakes.

Id say they are about the same exact car though, because they are both 2 row honda SUVs made in the Alabama Honda plant.

[Anonymous No.2777480]

>>2777479
Oh and please dont forget that the CRV uses a CVT while the passport uses a 10 speed traditional automatic transmission.

[Bepperoni No.2777528]

>>2777461
…that are 3x the price?

The other thing is, people shit on the Ryobi but lots of them are still on corded shit because they remember borrowing a 7.2V NiCd Makita some decades ago and determining that cordless tools suck. But pretty much any 18V+ lithium battery tools are miles ahead of that bullshit. Like when I was still trying to hang onto the 18V XRP stuff with dying NiCd batteries, those were top of the line a few years before, but even the brushed 12V Ridgid was a big upgrade to that.

[Anonymous No.2777535]

>>2777528
>but lots of them are still on corded shit because they remember borrowing a 7.2V NiCd Makita some decades ago and determining that cordless tools suck.
Funny how that works.
The corded drill outlasted the original 7.2 nicads, then the 18v nicads, then the first wave of 18v lithium, and its continuing to outlast the second wave which is dying.

Good on cordless for finally catching up to the power of 40 year old corded drills.

[Anonymous No.2777552]

>>2777535
>the first wave of 18v lithium, and its continuing to outlast the second wave which is dying.

the first lithium ion drill was sold in 2005
battery packs dont last that long im sure theres been more then 2 waves of drills in the last 20 years

[Anonymous No.2777568]

>>2777528
Yeah, even back in the NiCd 7.2 and 9.6 days the psychotic cordless zealots were like:
> “these have more power than corded”
> “never had any failures”
> “runs for days on a single charge”
> “no cords is wonderful”
> “all the pros use is cordless”
> “cordless is all you should ever buy”
> “get with the times grandpa, nobody uses cords”

Same bullshit nonsensical lies we hear today.
Well, they’re really worse than lies, the total opposite of reality and the truth.
I guess I get -.25 cents from the tti mainland china shill army.

[Anonymous No.2777570]

>>2777535
I guarantee my particular cordless drill and driver beat the pants off your old corded drill.

I can also use them all over the place without needing to hunt for a working outlet.

[p No.2777572]

>>2773873
They’re all exactly the same

[Anonymous No.2777573]

>>2777570
Marketing execs have wet dreams over retards like you. Hook line and sinker.

Post some random specs off the box my guy.

[Anonymous No.2777591]

>>2777528
>…that are 3x the price?
that’s the thing: 7 years ago, they were priced at the lower end of Bosch blue (in Germany) so they ought to be compared to that, which they “failed”. As in: yeah, works OK, but Bosch is working better and is better made, so why bother with ryobi?
But now is 7 years later, so I would suppose they could have improved some weak points and the definitely improved the price.
Guess I’m gonna get >>2777426 and see how it works. If it dies immediately, I’ll get a warranty replacement and sell it off as new tools and get proper stuff.
If it’s OK enough, I’ll use it and eventually upgrade some key tools to to proper stuff (e.g. either heavy duty stuff or some light 12V things (Milwaukee 12V is really tempting) because ryobi really is heavy) and keep ryobi around for their over-9000 tools I could cheaply get for those once a year odd jobs.
And if it’s indeed really fantastic? Fine. Then I’ve saved some money and I’m gonna be a ryobi man. And the gf gets pic related and I’ll pimp her out for some diy TikTok vids.

[Anonymous No.2777593]

>>2777591
>unironically buying a cheap cordless jigaw, flashlight, and small circular saw
The only useful tool in that kit is the drill, which is shit.

[Anonymous No.2777603]

>>2777593
I’ve got a corded black & decker jigsaw that’s over 20 years old and dying and I’m going to need to cut some large but thin-ish plywood and OSB so that seems good enough. And the drill is only gonna see light duty. For heavy stuff, I’ve got some old, made in germany, corded stuff.

[Anonymous No.2777607]

>>2777603
Sounds like you are spending money just for the sake of spending money, bepis would be proud

[Anonymous No.2777624]

>>2777573
OK, I'll see you having fun hauling your 10 pound underpowered old drill up a ladder with a 50' extension cord and struggling to make a hole I can drill in seconds.

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2777664]

>>2777535
>>2777568
>>2777573
>”My 19” tube TV that weighs 175lbs is better than your 70” OLED 4K smart tv because it’s old and still works!”
Can’t argue with that logic. I mean the 4K smart tv is objectively better in every way except for being a worse object to barricade a door with.

[Anonymous No.2777675]

>>2777322
Works just fine nigger

[Anonymous No.2777680]

>>2773873
yes, once stores stop stocking stanleys your drill magically becomes useless
better sell it and buy a brand new from some other make lol
>the state of consoomer cattle

[Anonymous No.2777682]

>>2774181
>Too bad you Yuros don’t get Ryobi
we do. there's a wall full with ryobis in my local Toom Baumarkt (germany)
but I don't know if they're the same as in the US or just some IP license magic rebrand

[Anonymous No.2777683]

>>2774188
>Actually I've never seen neither parkside nor einhell tools here, but ryobi is everywhere.
here in germany einhel and parkside are at the cheap-o brands. einhel you can find in Bauhaus and Parkside is the brand of LIDL

[Anonymous No.2777690]

>>2777591
dude, just buy the tools that you need. those sets usually contain so much useless trash that it's more economic to buy the tools on their own when the need arrives. stop wasting money believing you would "save" money

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2777707]

>>2777682
Looks like the same Ryobi. I think Bunnings sells Ryobi in the penal colony down under. And then Orange Ridgid in the US is AEG elsewhere. There’s a red Flex from Germany and I have no clue if it’s the same as the grey Flex 24v over here.

>>2777690
Buying bare tools and batteries at least with the US promos and kits is a big waste of money. You can easily save >50%.

>>2777591
Just read this again. If Blue Bosch is the same price as Ryobi in Germany, then go Blue Bosch. You either have cheap ass Bosch or overpriced Ryobi if they’re similar in price. Ryobi is more of a weekender brand and Blue Bosch is more contractor grade.

[Anonymous No.2777713]

>>2777707
> If Blue Bosch is the same price as Ryobi in Germany, then go Blue Bosch. You either have cheap ass Bosch or overpriced Ryobi if they’re similar in price
That was 7 years ago. Now they’re much cheaper than blue Bosch. Guess they tried to go for “contractor grade” and failed.
> Buying bare tools and batteries at least with the US promos and kits is a big waste of money. You can easily save >50%.
This. Same here, however you can easily waste money if you don’t need most stuff, so >>2777690 isn’t exactly wrong. There’s a sweet Bosch blue set which is a great price if you need a cordless drill (with a hammer function), a cordless SDS drill and a cordless angel grinder. And I’d need like 25% of that set (the cordless drill, but without the hammer function), whereas >>2777426 that is stuff I do need. And I did the math. Assuming it’s good enough for weekender duty, it’s a steal. And autism aside, there seems to be a good enough chance for it.

[Anonymous No.2777719]

>>2777707
>Buying bare tools and batteries at least with the US promos and kits is a big waste of money. You can easily save >50%.
The big several tool kits can be hit or miss. A DeWalt super discount kit might have 1 proper XR brushless drill and 7 brushed tools they're trying to offload.

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2777726]

>>2777719
>>2777713
Those flashlights are def filler to add an extra piece. But if you were to buy a drill + driver kit with 2 small batteries and add the jigsaw later, you would probably be at the price of the whole starter kit. So if you will use the angle grinder and circ saw at all, it’s a bonus.

I mentioned the thing about that little 5.5” circ saw tho because I wouldn’t buy that specific kit if the saw was the main feature. It’s not going to be a replacement for a corded saw like if you got the HP 7.25” brushless saw or even the 6.5” HP will be more capable for large projects and lots of 2x lumber.

[Anonymous No.2777734]

>>2777726
I got a high end drill/driver kit with two batteries, and a mini vac with a matching battery with it so I've got 3 4AH XR batteries now and that's been enough. Buying a barrel grip jigsaw and router as bare tools just made more sense.

[Anonymous No.2777735]

>>2777726
> It’s not going to be a replacement for a corded saw like if you got the HP 7.25” brushless saw or even the 6.5” HP will be more capable for large projects and lots of 2x lumber.
I’ve got a big-ish metabo miter saw and a table saw, but for large but thin plywood, this tiny thing should easily beat trying to handle a huge sheet on a table saw, sow I’m not particularly worried about it not fitting my use case.

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2777742]

>>2777734
That’s fine if it works for you, but with pretty much everything I’ve bought, if I watch the sales I can either get a battery or two for $10-$20 more, or wait for the bare tool on sale. Last one I got was the right angle impact wrench, and the bare tool went on sale from like $200 down to $120 for a short time and I bought it then because I didn’t need it to finish the job.

Home Depot has random ass sales on their website too. My Ryobi 18V weed whacker is the brushless HP model with the shaft where you can change tools and a 15” cutter head and I actually got the tool with a 4.0Ah battery and charger for like $50 less than the bare tool.

You can also do the little scam (but not really) where they will have a free XR tool deal with the purchase of some $199 battery kit. On the HD receipt, instead of making the bare tool $0.00 because it was free, they will take a % off each to total the $199. So the starter kit might be $118.67 on the receipt and the bare XR jigsaw is $80.33. You can return the battery starter kit and get the $118 back, so you got that $179 bare tool for $80.

But if you need the tool that day, you may be screwed if it’s one of the like 3 months out of the year with no major DeWalt 20V promo.

>>2777735
That little saw is actually great for that. It’s so easy to run a light 5.5” saw with no cord across some plywood.

[Anonymous No.2777838]

>>2777664
Good analogy. Is your 4K TV cordless? Here’s a better one:

What about all the times you’re in the middle of a forest with no outlets or grid power and you want to watch something from your cordless blu-ray player for a maximum of 10 minutes?

This is what cordless fools argue for.

[Anonymous No.2777846]

>>2777838
Well, you could buy that ryobi adapter to use normal corded household appliances with the large ryobi batteries.

[Anonymous No.2777851]

>>2777624
> 10 pounds and underpowerered
ROFL, like my corded drill isn’t lighter than yours with the battery, and lasts for…. Infinity.
You:
Ohh… battery is dead. I guess I’ll start work in 4 hours or so when it’s charged.
(The next day)
Check battery. Why is the red light blinking rapidly? Dang. Manual says it’s dead.
Check internet. Says to put it in the microwave for 5 minutes….
Oh well, another “only” $200 bucks for a new one. Well spent.
(Take the old battery to the home depot again to recycle it and spend $6 in gas.)
Put the battery in the charger.
(The next day)
Check battery. Red light blinking rapidly. Check battery carefully. Oh shit! I recycled the wrong one!
Oh well, another $200 well spent. Better buy two this time, so I’ll have an extra charger, so $400.

[Bepperoni No.2777909]

>>2777846
>>2777838
And that 4k TV is lighter and more energy efficient so you would get much further through the newest Disney woke tranny movie than with the old CRT TV.

Also you went totally past the point where the cordless drill is objectively better in pretty much every way than the old corded boat anchor.

[Anonymous No.2777946]

>>2773899
>you’ll face them every fucking year now if you’re a heavy power tool user.

That does not happen to me because I do not permit it to. Precisely why is that your experience and why did you self-inflict it?

I buy OEM batteries and they last many years despite frequent tool abuse. I even have a 2011 M28 battery still serviceable and the V28 tools themselves though underpowered by todays standards survived my abuse nicely. I date mark all my batteries and have very low attrition despite constant use working on trucks and harvesting parts in salvage where shore power is not an option.

[Anonymous No.2778013]

>>2777851
IF you can run a cord to it. My drill just works everywhere.

[Anonymous No.2778015]

>>2777909
>Also you went totally past the point where the cordless drill is objectively better in pretty much every way than the old corded boat anchor.
Only if you're the kind of full retard who only uses his drill in his shop.

[Anonymous No.2778111]

>>2777479
> bunch of stuff about cars that I’m still researching
Don’t use car analogies when there is a tier 1 car-bro lurking in the chat

>>2777946
> harvesting parts in salvage where shore power is not an option
Okay, so we’ve established another demographic cordless applies to: pirates. We’ll add that to the list with trannies and zoomers.

[Anonymous No.2778679]

Howdy, /r/tools, since this appears to be Euros asking about Amerikan brands thread, I gotta ask what are y’all saying about Milwaukee?
Yesterday I Was in a small construction store in the countryside and they hat a Lot of Milwaukee thing. Have never seen that bevor hier. Seems like they want to be bigger in Europa?
They are very expensive for many things, but their 12 Volt sets are good price it seems and well reviewed.
Are they worth getting over eg 12 Volt Bosch or they’re cheap, 18 Volt brother ryobi that’s discussed so much here?

[Anonymous No.2778695]

>>2778679
Milwaukee seems to be making waves in the UK, but Dewalt and Makita are more prevalent. I've got the m18 1/2 impact and I love it.

[Anonymous No.2778701]

>>2777351
>I doubt—even if you put all manufacturing facilities in the U.S. together—that they could produce a drill.
It's not quite that dire, DeWalt already makes most of the hard parts in the US (motors, gearboxes, etc.) and domestic production exists for the stuff they don't make here. There are various specialty companies making high-end stuff totally in the US for non-consumer applications too. The one thing I'm not sure about is batteries, I'm having a hard time figuring out whether anybody actually makes the cells here, though I THINK maybe Tesla does? I believe there are a bunch of battery factories coming online pretty soon though, especially because what may be the world's largest lithium deposit was recently discovered in Nevada.

[Anonymous No.2778719]

>>2773899
>incompatibility
God i hate Bosch green / blue so much for this. They're like that big, established brand, where you pay extra for this not to happen. And then they cant even offer equivalent tool in both ranges. E.g. many gardening tools like nano-blade saw will be only green, so if you want decent blue workshop tools you must run 4 systems under one brand.. like why even bother and not just get the cheapest option with every tool you buy? Fuck Bosch.

[Anonymous No.2778767]

>>2778679
I think DeWalt generally makes better tools in the 18/20V space, but if you want compact 12V tools Milwaukee's currently far and away the only real choice because of how many tools they've built in the M12 family. They have band files, soldering irons, drain snakes, cable strippers, caulking guns, riveters, and heated vests for the battery type.

[Anonymous No.2778768]

>>2778701
Even then, most DW tools are Made in Mexico, not asia.

[Anonymous No.2778782]

>>2778719
> i hate Bosch green / blue so much for this.
Seconded. I understand why you can’t use, say makita, with Bosch batteries, but green and blue? Why?
Just sell green only up to 2.5 amps because that’s enough for diy and make blue from 2.5 upwards, or maybe some ultralight and very expensive pro 2 amps stuff that no tipical green user would ever buy, or hell, give them some stupid chip that only unlocks full, blue power with blue batteries, but there’s no reason that I can’t use blue batteries for a stupid green hedge trimmer or a green battery to finish some stupid ikea furniture with a blue drill.
And ironically, with power for all and ampshare, they’ve got some interoperability, even with competitors. It just doesnt make sense that I can run Fein tools (most of which have an equivalent Bosch blue tool) on Bosch batteries, but not their own fucking green tools.
That alone makes makita (or ryobi for that matter) seem like a very tempting option, since they really have EVERYTHING (even if it doesn’t really make sense, microwave anyone?).

[Anonymous No.2778786]

>>2778782
Actually I'd be OK with 2 systems, if they both offered full range. I could go with blue and bite the extra cost for quality and longevity.
But they fucking dont. Just recently they've come up with some sort of fucking POWER FOR ALL 18 & 36 systes that don't have Blue equivalents, like narrow Mowers, where i'd definitely want the power and durability of Blue. Nah just a pigfat 46cm tractor where i'd use a gasoline one anyway.

[Anonymous No.2778810]

>>2778767
>I think DeWalt generally makes better tools in the 18/20V space,
The ONLY thing Dewalt does better than Milwaukee for any power tool, are their jobsite saws and their miter saws.
Milwaukee mops them up in every other way

[Anonymous No.2778817]

>>2778679
Milwaukee makes very good tools, the most popular brand in the USA.
With that said, that doesnt mean they are vastly better than the competition.

They cost the same price in the USA as Makita and Dewalt. Dont pay a premium for them, just because they are popular where they are cheaper.

with that said, their 12v line is very popular because they sell a million different 12v tools.
By far the largest 12v lineup of any brand. Its well worth buying into if you want some smaller or more interesting tools.

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2778839]

>>2778786
Having Orange 18V for the main tools and Ryobi 18V for the yard tools, random household crap, and the once a year tools isn’t too bad. I wouldn’t hate on anybody for doing a main brand for drills and saws and doing Ryobi for random stuff. It’s rough paying $150-$200 for an LED light or fan or little Bluetooth radio that runs on 18V batteries if you’re all Milwaukee. The M18 ~10” fan is not worth 3x the price of the Ryobi 10” fan.

The little Ryobi area lights were like $35 for a 2pk, they’re great for sticking in engine bays and under the car and last forever unlike USB-rechargeable stick lights. It’s tough to find a Ridgid 18V light <$100.

[Anonymous No.2778877]

>>2778839
It's easier if it's a choice. But say you have limited space in van workshop? Would you find it reasonable if Milwaukee offered LED lights only in shitty 100$, dim, fragile variant that takes it's own battery and charger? You'd have serious debate if you should choose Milwaukee at all and not a 10x cheaper LIDL lamp that's too a shit and has its own battery.

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2778883]

>>2778877
Nah which is why I said Ryobi is good for the household shit and yard tools, you will survive without them on the work van.

And those lights and the Ryobi fan are great for the purposes you would want a small lantern for, it doesn’t cost $169.99 to make an LED light or $119.99 for a 10” fan. There’s a handful of objects like that where objectively the Milwaukee version isn’t significantly better than the Ridgid or even Ryobi but the pricing system requires the red version to cost more than it should and people pay because they only want one type of battery on the van.

[Anonymous No.2778936]

>>2778679
> what are y’all saying about Milwaukee?
I’m saying: if you buy their advent calendar for Easter, it’s a really good deal.
>5/5 stars. Product arrived quickly. I’ve unpacked it and it looks good. Will probably test it soon and then see if it’s actually good.

[Anonymouse !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2778938]

>>2778936
Kek they stole the idea from Wera

[Anonymous No.2778939]

>>2778938
Maybe. As did about any other tool company too. But who cares?
Very tempted to get the wera too. There’s a bunch of stuff in there I need too, but I’m not sure of it works out a great deal at about 50€.
Maybe I should get it and really keep it for advent.

[Anonymouse !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2778949]

>>2778939
They have a different one every year. The prices are probably close to what you would pay for the tools, I think they’re like $80-$90 in the US. I doubt it’s practical to buy it because you need the tools, but rather because you’re a Wera fanboi who wants the limited edition colored grips on a bottle opener.

The father in law liked it.

If you can find last year’s calendar on clearance or some shit, maybe that’s worth it to rip open

[Anonymous No.2778954]

>>2778719
> incompatibility
It’s worse than you think.
Power tools even within the same line are all 50 to 80% the same motor/drive electronics. Imagine if you had a single battery standard AND a single DRIVE HEAD standard (like a ratchet does).
We’s be living in a fucking consumer utopia.
It’s anti-consumer bullshit.
See picrel. Also have the corded and pneumatic drive, two 12 V drives, and pictured here, the Octane drive.
I’d be willing to pay extra for an impact with goddamn tungsten hammers if I knew I’d be able to use it over the course of a decade on arbitrary drive platforms.

[Anonymouse !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2778959]

>>2778954
Oh man this thing was dope. Pneumatic, corded 120V, cordless 12V, and cordless 18V. I was waiting to grab the 12V hoping they would do an updated brushless version, but instead they killed off the tool and lineup. I wanted the ratchet.

They could sell you $1000 worth of tools instead of a $100 tool plus $150 in attachments so there’s no way fhe thing would’ve lasted.

[Anonymous No.2780138]

>>2777426
This kit is missing the 2 most important power tools; An angle grinder and an impact driver.
An angle grinder is a real swiss army knife, the variety of blades/discs available for them is really something to behold. Just need a pair of steady hands.
And id pick an impact driver over a drill just due to them having so much more torque, you just need a chuck adapter or hexbits if you want to drill holes.

[Anonymous No.2780302]

>>2780138
> need impact
Nonsense. Impacts became common on cordless power tools because the motors were so anemic. Impacts fuck up bits and screws, take longer, will make you deaf, and wear out. All you need is a corded drill, or a drill capable delivering similar torque to a corded drill.

[Anonymous No.2780304]

>>2780138
> angle grinder is a swiss army knife
No. It’s still the drill.

[Anonymous No.2780314]

>>2780302
ok retard
was gonna do a lenghty post but thats all you get

[Anonymous No.2780316]

>>2780302
>corded
nty, and a corded one cant deal with rusted nuts and such either. If you're only doing woodwork then fine a drill may be better, but if you want to work on vehicles too then an impact is a must. Cannot escape the fact that impacts can produce more torque. As for damaging bits and such, you can get impacts that have a no-impact setting. Just like drills often have a hammer setting, though impacting is more useful than hammering.
>>2780304
Would be much harder to attempt to cut a straight line with that, or carve wood, etc.

[Anonymous No.2780318]

>>2780302
i bet you only use straight slotted screws because phillips is designed to le cam out and torx is a marketing scam meant to sell more driver bits

[Anonymous No.2780319]

>>2780302

You are either trolling or have never actually used either of those tools.

[Anonymous No.2780321]

>>2780318
>Impacts fuck up bits and screws
I actually find it much harder to avoid camouts with a regular drill, an impact can kind of let the bit reset inside the screwhead between strikes, while with a drill it feels like its trying to force itself out the whole time, you have to put alot of weight on the back of the drill.

[Anonymous No.2780370]

>>2780314
> My dad works for Disney, and I was going to hook up your family with the disney channel for free, but now you can forget it.
Ok.

>>2780316
> deal with rusted nuts
Exactly. I use an impact to remove rusty nuts on things I absolutely don’t care about fucking up. That’s about it. Everything else uses a breaker bar, and a torque wrench to put them back on.

> harder to attempt to cut a straight line
Yesh, it’s basically a cross between an angle grinder and a dremel. It’s fine for removing welding detritus, rough cutting steel, etc. i have a face guard, but’s pretty low RPM. It just works.

>>2780318
Phillips was not designed to cam out, it was designed for factories where the bit can automatically seat in the bit. Getting it out is someone elses problem. See “drywall screws”

> torx
Is shit, I agree, but I can’t easily buy 12" robertson screws, so I use GRKs with torx until people wise up, or some patent expires or something.

> slotted
We had the technology. Lost it somehow. E.g. picrel.

>>2780321
> avoid cam-outs
The impact goes in a circular direction.
You should try a hammer drill if you think that helps, the hammer action actually pushes forward so that oughtta really get the job done, eh?

I don’t want to give them any more “how to fuck people over for profit” ideas though.

[Anonymous No.2780395]

>>2780370
>That’s about it.
I was merely suggesting, that if i could only pick one, i would choose and impact over a plain drill, it can do more, because it has more torque, but obviously its better to have both, they have pros and cons.
>he hammer action actually pushes forward
it also pulls it back, so no that wouldnt help avoid camout.

[Anonymouse !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2780405]

>>2780395
I carry an impact driver with some hex shank drill bits in my go-bag but if I could only have one, probably would take the drill, especially a hammer drill. That’s a real beginner Ryobi kit for people who wouldn’t know how to use the impact driver without stripping everything out while they only strip 50% of screws with the drill.

IMHO, a drill is better at driving than an impact is at drilling. Trying to drill larger holes in anything other than soft material with an impact driver can be odd.

[Anonymous No.2780411]

>>2780405
My daily driver (lol, get it?) has everything on it already.
I suspect they found a way (as in marketing) to sell all these settings as different tools.
Picrel is in the hammer setting, for getting shit dooonnnee!!
For all I know, Ryobi might have been a japanese company back then when this was made.

[Anonymous No.2780416]

>>2780405
idk i dont really have any problems with stripping with an impact. But yeah i wouldnt want to try to use an impact to drill holes into metal.
Drill is what i more often hear recommended on what to get first or whats more important, in jewtube videos and such anyways, so you may have the more popular opinion, i just really like impacts.

[Anonymouse !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2780423]

>>2780411
That looks like a regular hammer drill.

Goddamn those brushed hammer drills are like double the length of newer brushless models.

[Anonymouse !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2780429]

>>2780416
It’s not a “you” problem, it’s the “them” problem for the very very occasional DIYers who would never so much as remove an outlet cover but may want a drill and saw to build a holder for their potted plant they saw on Pinterest. I’ve seen boomers who were incapable of running impact drivers despite being somewhat experienced with boomer repairs and have probably put up a shelf or three in their lifetime. If they don’t understand how they work, it’s a bit of an oddball tool when you’re expecting it to work like the drill the Fem-tuber was using to built that potted plant stand.

[Anonymous No.2780433]

>>2780416
Impacts are less likely to cam/strip a screw because it's not continuous force, it's a repetitive hammering force.

[Anonymous No.2780439]

>went with yellow
>alls good for 2 years
>first one drills chuck went
>next my vacuum just doesn't suck like it used to
>2 batteries are kill
>router motor died
>have another drill but the chuck is starting to go on that

[Anonymous No.2780475]

>>2780439
>my vacuum just doesn't suck like it used to

[Anonymous No.2780476]

>>2780439
It’s well known when you buy these things you’re supposed to
• replace all the chucks with better quality chinese ones. The chucks are kind of “fake” because they only have to last one testing/review cycle (like every other component, lol)
• you have to buy new filters. You don’t think just the batteries are a subscription service do you?
• the old nicads used to die slowly over the course of years. I’m seeing a lot more sudden death in newer packs, especially like dewalt’s new “pouch” packs they got from the quadcopter scene. Plus there is lots more electronics to go wrong, and they are intrinsically more fragile in almost every dimension.

[Anonymous No.2780478]

>>2780439
>Chucks are easy to replace and a user-serviceable replacement part
>Clean/replace the filter
>Batteries will die no matter what brand you go with
Sounds like bad luck on the router, though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp_mXt3Zo5w

[Anonymous No.2780479]

>>2780476
nta, but;
>replace all the chucks with better quality chinese ones
Chucks are kinda disposable items, they wear out.
>I’m seeing a lot more sudden death in newer packs
Been hearing alot about packs not lasting like they used to, people buying new ones every year. Im definatly avoiding the pouch types because i want to learn to restore my old batteries with new 18650s' but am still concerned about the chips failing.
My 2023 dated dewalt batt i just got shows some sign of cost cutting compared to my 2016 dated batts, just simple things like no longer using security screws, no longer plating the battery contacts with copper or gold, big ugly biege pcb board instead of a nice tidy little black one. I thought it might be a fake but looking it up seems legit, theyre just cheapinjg out on them more now.

[Anonymous No.2780485]

Side by side showing the older dewalt internals compared to the newer ones (both 5ah 18650 packs)
Admittedly, id think some of the change should be an improvement, theyve moved away from wires in favour of using just sheetmetal, nesscisatating the larger board. the soldering seems well done/generous. but somthing about not plating the contacts and going with a cheaper board colour doesn't sit quite right with me.

[Anonymous No.2780563]

>>2780479
>>2780485
Those poignant comments.
The tan PCB on the newer device is paper and phenolic resin, unlike the higher temp fiberglass boards in the old one.
The new one also has no wires! They probably spent $100,000 on re-tooling that just so they could fire the three 40 year old asian ladies that were working in shifts to solder them on; barely able to feed their families even while they were working there.

[Anonymous No.2781470]

Are these niggers any good?
Doesn't really seem to be many reviews out on the cat branded tools.

[Anonymous No.2781472]

Asking for a couple raisins;
1. I'm trying to make a retarded brand tier list and am not sure where to rank them (they seem to want to be considered serious tools, up with the big boys, but so does Hercules and i dont think they belong up there)
2. I'm team yellow, and therefore i want to consoooooome

[Anonymous No.2781481]

>>2781472
Ryobi up one and Hercules down, Harbor Freight's stuff will wear out fast on you no matter which brand you buy. Ryobi's actually pretty solid weekend warrior stuff. Worx actually makes some great yard tools.

Cat is too new to really know for sure, but they think they can charge Milwaukee prices for their tools. Flex was able to back that up, but they aren't exactly out there to know yet.

[Anonymous No.2781484]

>>2781472
Mac and Proto aren’t industrial. They are for larping toolophiles.

Picrel is industrial, and it’s just “Stanley” again.

[Anonymous No.2781488]

>>2781481
Ty for input, i will make some adjustments.
>>2781484
Tbh the tier names were kinda meant to be a joke, note they are the colours of the landzones in simcity. And how i was ranking the tools was mostly just based on pricing structure.
If i were to take it more seriously it would complicate things a fair bit, ie; you showing stanley as an industrial tool, but most stanley tools people see are consumer grade products.
I'll consider it though, maybe making an extra tier for this phenomenon you refer to as "larping toolphiles" and probably toss snap-on in their with them.

[Anonymous No.2781592]

>>2781472
It’s missing the euro brands (which also do have a following in the US) besides Hilti. E.g. Bosch blue and green, metabo, fein, festool and würth.

[Anonymous No.2781608]

>>2781488
> toolophiles
Festool comes to mind, I think, though, they actually make their own motors which is saying something.
> industrial
Red ridgid. A drill with a pro-press head kit is like $3000

[Anonymous No.2781911]

>>2781608
Festool mainly markets to woodworkers who are making a living off their work and looking for fine details that shave time and effort off their builds. The Domino, for instance, lets you cut floating tenon mortises that perfectly match in a few minutes with perfect repeatability. That and Europeans who don't have the bounty of brands that the US has. Festool is also the only table saw there with a Sawstop system.

[Anonymous No.2781957]

>>2780302
lol

lmao, even

[Anonymous No.2781960]

>>2781911
> Festool is also the only table saw there with a sawstop system
Even more reason I can’t afford anything festool. I remember seeing tom on this old house with this idiotic drill with a saber sword like handle so i looked up the price and it was something insane like 500 bucks for that cheap-ass POS. That was 20 years ago.
Definitely “toolophile” category. In fact you should call it the “festool” category because everyone knows what it epitomizes.

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2782027]

>>2781470
It’s a licensed tool, but actual car tools are very fucking nice

Caterpillar sockets are worth picking up

Made in USA

https://www.ebay.com/itm/186295656459

[Anonymous No.2782028]

>>2782027
Shut up faggot, no one asked your opinion

[Anonymous No.2782035]

>>2782027
>$172 for 9 chrome 3/8" sockets
Damn, they arent even cat colored, i'm gunna have to pass.

[Anonymous No.2782042]

I got a metal chuck hikoki with two 5AH batteries and a charger a few years back on sale. $110.

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2782052]

>>2781470
>>2782027
I think those CAT tools are the higher end tools from one of the big power tool makers. It’s licensed of course, but IIRC it may be the company that makes Greenworks 24V and like Rockwell or some other zombie brand, it’s like the #4 or #5 power tool maker after TTI and Stanley and the company that makes Flex-Kobalt-Ego.

They looked promising because they had those “graphene” lithium packs that claimed like 15min charge times on battery packs, but I have no clue where they even sell those CAT tools and I have never seen them IRL.

[Anonymous No.2782190]

>>2782052
>but I have no clue where they even sell those CAT tools and I have never seen them IRL.
They seem to be online only atm. can order them from a few retailers like Rona, Lowes and Amazoon.
They were apparently available out east for a few years before they came to NA, and may be sold at actual Caterpillar dealers, too.

[Anonymous No.2782344]

>>2777383
The hammer drill and that older model impact are practical. The angle grinder will chew through batteries. The jig is worse than similar jigsaws for reasons I don't entirely understand but obvious results in surface damage and extra hassle dropping blades. All basic battery circs are underpowered bullcrap. Get a corded circ if you're not getting into flexvolt or similar.

[Anonymous No.2782352]

>>2782344
Angle grinders sure are hungry, om nom nom. But its got to be my first or second most frequently used tool.

[Anonymous No.2782361]

>>2782352
I just did a full shower with a grinder. The customer was nice enough to buy 2ft x 4 ft tile to "make less cuts." My corded ryobi broke and I didn't have patience to run for a new battery every cut. My $10 HF grinder paid for itself several times over.

My tile cutter is 22 in and the larger snappers are like $600.

[Anonymous No.2782514]

I need a battery powered small-ish drill and an oscillating multitool. Bosch Blue 18V seems like the obvious choice, but I could get a package deal for Milwaukee 12V Where I'd get a M12 FDD drill, a FUEL M12 FMT multitool, 2 4Ah batteries and a small 2Ah one with charger and a packout box for 400€, which seems kinda good, especially since it's a package deal without a tool and/or a light that I won't need.
And according to the internet, Milwaukee 12V is about as good as most 18V stuff, but yeah, this mostly is youtubers fawning over that one, ultrastronk 12V FDP2 drill, so is the FDD good enough for mid-duty use, or is some package-deal-special-edition crap that will geat beaten by parkside?
The mutlitool, guess you can't go too wrong with that, besides the fact the milwauke doesn't have starlock, but if you're not switching blades every 2 cuts, that's workable.

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2782561]

>>2782514
If you go 12V, you’re never going to be able to use those batteries on a full size cordless saw or impact or anything. It’s fine for general homeowner drilling, but if you’re doing it for the money, you would be better off going Parkside or whatever Ryobi alternative so you don’t have to buy into another ecosystem when you want one of the basic 18V tools that every brand sells but isn’t available in 12V.

Also when you try to run those 12V drills hard, like spade bits and hole saws or 1/4”+ holes in metal, that battery gets nice and toasty and the capacity drops off a bit. Like an 18V pack with 2x the total watt hours of energy drilling those same holes will last much longer than 2x as many holes before a recharge, and overall lifetime will be longer. I noticed that trying to run my 12V stuff hard, the efficiency of those lithium packs can drop off when you’re running them hot,

The compact and subcompact brushless 18V tools are a great alternative. Most brands who have them will sell you an 18V brushless compact drill and driver with a couple of 2.0Ah packs for about the same money as the 12V tools, and those batteries are compatible with the full size circ saws and grinders and impacts if/when you need those tools. Also there isn’t much of a size difference, especially if you’re running the larger 6-cell packs on the 12V tools, picrel shows 12V vs subcompact, and the newer gen subcompact 18V is even more compact around the battery pack.

[Anonymous No.2782639]

>>2782561
>when you want one of the basic 18V tools that every brand sells but isn’t available in 12V.
But doesn’t Milhousee have everything on n 12V? I’m fully aware that it won’t be as powerful AND long running as some big ass 18V thing, but for light duty and occasionally “a bit more”, it should be as good as some 45nm Bosch thing. And lighter. For heavy lifting, I got plenty of corded stuff (pic related, that’s a beast from way before stuff like “safety trigger” and “dust control”), I really wanna be light and nimble, but not powerless, like some Bosch IXO or whatever it’s called that’s really only for ikea assembly, but yeah, I’m not gonna make money with my tools.

[Anonymous No.2782932]

>>2782639
> your picrel
Reminded me of another “toolophile” class like festool. Fein.

[Anonymous No.2782973]

>>2782932
desu I’d love to get festool or fein, but I can’t really justify the price for my uses. Sure, I could get the cheapo Fein set with drill and Multitool, but then why go Fein, plus, that set has some shitty Fein only battery instead of Bosch amp-share their 18v stuff now has.

[Anonymouse !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2783044]

>>2782639
The M12 line is huge compared to other 12V lines, but the two things you’re not going to get that are pretty essential handyman tools: a full size circular saw (the brushless 7-1/4” can easily replace corded now) and a 1/2” impact with some balls.

There are lots of M12 fanbois who will tell you their 5” M12 circ saw and stubby impact will do it all, but notice that none of these people own the proper 18V tools and they bought M12 because they wanted to be #FUEL on a budget.

I think the m12 circ saw can just make it through 2x at a 90 degree angle under ideal conditions, but it’s mostly for trim and stuff and will never replace a full sized 7-1/4” or even a 6-1/2” brushless 18V saw. And the M12 impacts, all the retards like “It removes my freshly torqued 80ft-lb lug nuts just fine!” but so does my 18V 1/4” impact driver with a socket adapter. And when a tire shop overtorques those bitches or you’ve spent all weekend with cheater pipes on an axle nut or crankshaft pulley bolt and the stubby impact won’t do shit, the proper 18V 1/2” ugga duggas are a lifesaver.

[Anonymous No.2783084]

>>2782027
>>2782052
CAT sockets are Snap-on rebranded

[Anonymous No.2783086]

>>2783044
I'll also note that since M12 batteries aren't cross-compatible anyways, you aren't stuck with Milwaukee for 18V tools either.

Personally I'd go with M12 with the handy little tools that you can't get in 18V, like the detail sander, band files, soldering iron...

[Këbin Vann Damm !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2783103]

>>2783086
Yea and those oddball 12V tools are pretty far down the list of necessary power tools for a DIYer, better off going 18V to start for the core power tools, especially with the options of subcompact 18V tools.

[Anonymous No.2783128]

Are they legit? They've got a lot of Ryobi and Ridgid for stupid good deals.

[Anonymous No.2783140]

>>2783044
>but the two things you’re not going to get that are pretty essential handyman tools: a full size circular saw (the brushless 7-1/4” can easily replace corded now) and a 1/2” impact with some balls.
Luckily, I got a pretty strong saw already >>2782639 (ate through 5cm of wood like it’s nothing) and I don’t have any need for an impact driver. And should I realize I need something stronger but cordless, well >>2783086
> M12 batteries aren't cross-compatible anyways, you aren't stuck with Milwaukee for 18V tools either.
This.
So I went ahead and ordered it. Added a Milwaukee trucker cup for 5 quid while I’m at it, so I just need to convince the gf to get the logo tattooed as a tramp stamp and I need some old ass truck so that I can finally fulfill my redneck larping fantasies.