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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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2756919 No.2756919 [Reply] [Original]

What is with these cheap piece of shit LED lights going out after 3 years of moderate or even light use? This is a home depot brand shop light in my laundry room that strobes out after only 3 years of use. I'd imagine well below it's 10,000 hour lifespan or whatever ridiculous number they tell us.

What is the culprit in these shitty lights that I could potentially resolder and actually get a lifetime use out of it? Nothing seems loose or corroded

>> No.2756947

It's always the shitty power supply that craps out on anything LED before the LED's themselves die. I'm no electronics person, but surely they could make a fucking power supply for them that lasts as long as the LED modules themselves can't they? It's so bad it is laughable.

>> No.2756985

>What is with these cheap piece of shit LED lights going out after 3 years of moderate or even light use?
Overdriven LEDs.
>What is the culprit in these shitty lights that I could potentially resolder and actually get a lifetime use out of it?
Burnt LEDs. Well, what you can do is plug it in, get some insulated gloves (because not all PSUs are galvanically isolated) and short each and every LED out with tweezers. Or look for LEDs with black spot there.
That if they are just a string for whatever LEDs in series.
If it is series-parallel, its much harder to find a dead LED.
>10 000 hour
Properly designed LED light fixture should be able to last about 50 000 - 100 000 hours until 80% light output.... But you know, they aren't even trying to achieve that because they claim 10 000 hours, which is LED lifespan under insane conditions like high current and insane temperatures.

What does it say on the driver?

Uhh. Nope. Rarely. Its LED itself most of the time.
And PSU in OP-pic looks pretty good. Eh, maybe it would flicker a bit, as I don't see no capacitors on 220V (110V) side.

>> No.2756989

>home depot brand shop light
found your problem

>> No.2757011

Buy a 50w driver on ebay for 5 bucks whiner

>> No.2757013

>Uhh. Nope. Rarely. Its LED itself most of the time.
> And PSU in OP-pic looks pretty good. Eh, maybe it would flicker a bit, as I don't see no capacitors on 220V (110V) side.
>Anonymous 02/10/24(Sat)17:59:41 No.2756989▶

Every single time I've pulled apart a non-working LED I find all the LED's themselves are fine. The power supply is fucked.

>> No.2757015

* Driver not power supply or transformer a DRIVER

>> No.2757018

>* Driver not power supply or transformer a DRIVER

Whatever you gotta call it. The thing that powers the LEDs is fucked. The LEDs are still working if you put the proper voltage to them.

>> No.2757021

That's odd. Maybe it is 110V vs 220V thing? PSUs are slightly different design for 220V and 110V I guess?
Anyway, heat kills PSUs too. But idk, Id imagine with dead PSU it would flicker a lot or do smth funny.

>> No.2757024

Say Driver SAY IT

>> No.2757039

LED power supply

>> No.2757046

That power supply looks better than expected. I figured it'd just be smps. Check the output with a meter. Get some LED strips or piranhas or something. If your supply works, you'll just have to arrange the lights on a white sheet and cover the wires.

>> No.2757048

Every single component on that board can be tested and replaced

>> No.2757126

Visual inspection of the board generally won’t tell you much unless something has failed pretty spectacularly. Do you have a meter? Trace voltages through and see what you can find. Check output voltage first, if that’s okay your LEDs might be fucked but that’s less likely in my experience. If it’s not go to supply voltage and trace it through until you figure out what’s not working right. You’ll have to do some math to calculate expected voltage drops or if you have a second working light pull the driver from that to compare, easier and faster that way

>> No.2757181

Well turns out I have no inclination to learn electronics to save 50 bucks. Hopefully the next light I buy is a better brand but in my experience all home use led brands are fucking shit

>> No.2757184

This. Last one I took apart was a blown cap. It’s that same stupid flickering, and they’re built in a way that you need to replace the whole fixture unless you want to solder in new components to the driver board.

>> No.2757210
File: 1.64 MB, 2048x1536, IMG_2997.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

A DRIVER is cheap 4 bucks 4 fucking wires
2 in 2 out ….lions and tigers and wires oh my.

>> No.2757226

Use a real transformer instead of this switching power bs.

>> No.2757230

Are those 120VAC in?

>> No.2757244

Ebay my friend. Yours is probably 5 watts or less
Thank me later

>> No.2757245
File: 905 KB, 2048x1536, IMG_2998.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I buy all my electronics straight from china
Eliminate the middleman

>> No.2757248
File: 893 KB, 2048x1536, IMG_2999.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]


>> No.2757254

>cheap chink driver board shits the bed
>replace it with another cheap chink driver board

>> No.2757259

Its the same stuff you buy retail Einstein.
Only much cheaper.

>> No.2757261
File: 217 KB, 627x1025, 79DC1D18-3A5F-407C-B920-247E545CACD8.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Imagine buying this shit while €12 gets you CE rated doubly insulated SELV that will not flicker or kill the LEDs or cause a ceiling fire and actually does 10 years.

>> No.2757263

Cool story bro

>> No.2757277

The same stuff with no testing whatsoever, no protective casing for electrical insulation and stable heat dissipation, parts that are mounted out of compliance, overcrowded pcbs, caps of questionable origin and recycled balloons to insulate the transformer. And yet people put this inside their fucking walls and hope everything will go right.

>> No.2757283
File: 72 KB, 324x298, D76E5A6F-B034-4EF5-B744-0BF51E862E01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

We don’t need that X capacitor, just backfeed the switching EMF into the line.
At least the thing is over-rated so it will last longer though.

>> No.2757296
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>Say Driver SAY IT

>> No.2757299
File: 656 KB, 2048x1536, IMG_3001.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Here you go Grandma…the one op has isnt in a case either Delmer
Dont you have some ham radio weather broadcasts to do ?

>> No.2757393

I disagree. Use mains powered driver.
Linear dropper, capacitive dropper. Or even a switcher but in simple buck configuration.
It is not that easy. You need to know how LEDs are wired in order to pick a proper driver.
Also, they are $1-2, not $4. For $4 you get scammed.
Universal mains probably
China LED driver more reliable than certified China LED driver.
>no flicker
Not given.
Yep. You're not getting paid for no EMF.
I trust less a driver that is in plastic box. They are shittier than bare PCB drivers. Idk why.
> no protective casing for electrical insulation
not needed
>stable heat dissipation
Case prevents dissipation
>parts that are mounted out of compliance,
For 220V you need just 3 mm clearance with no soldermask.
> caps of questionable origin
Nobody uses nichicons in LED drivers
> recycled balloons to insulate the transformer.
Virgin PET tape. Cheaper than recycled crap. What is important, this is not a transformer, this is multi-winding choke, because shit is either a buck or flyback. And main concern is that it could be alu windings instead of Cu.

But I still doubt it is the driver that shat the bed. I blame LEDs.

>> No.2757406

You are wrong. It's a power supply or PSU if you are lazy.

>> No.2757538

So heres how its going to unfold.
OP is taking my advice and buying a led DRIVER
from EBay.

He will easily install said driver and be elated
He will also thank me for saving him money.

>> No.2759133

What's the difference between AC/DC power supply and LED driver?

>> No.2759176

> Case prevents dissipation
Hence ‘stable’. To get a CE or any kind of certification you must show that for the entire outside the temperature/heat dissipation are stable and well distributed. As in something like >>2757248 could suddenly get very hot in one single spot that could touch some plastic and start a fire. The case is there to distribute the heat and make the outside slowly warm up instead of spiking to 250F for a few seconds