/SQTDDTOT/ Stupid Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread.

[Anonymous No.2751810]

Old thread has passed the bump limit. >>2746196
Post your new or unanswered old questions here.

[Anonymous No.2751813]

If i stood right over the north pole
Wouldn’t the wind always blow from the south ?
In fact wouldnt the wind always be blowing north ?

[Anonymous No.2751816]

If nothing sticks to teflon, how do they get teflon to stick to the pan?

What's the best place to buy bulk orders of teflon budgies?

Is the process of removing teflon called tefloff?

[Anonymous No.2751821]

I need a cheap little rubber thing that'll wrap around a doorknob so my grandma can open it easily. It can't look hideously ugly like rubber bands or pic related. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.2751824]

>>2751816

[Anonymous No.2751826]

>>2751821
Search for:
EZ Door Knob Grip or Great Grips Door Knob Grippers
or something similar
I found many on my first search.

[Anonymous No.2751834]

>>2751821
Tape it off and spray a band around it with flex seal

[Anonymous No.2751853]

>>2751826
>I found many on my first search.
Yeah I know but the cheapest I could find was a 2 pack for 12 leafbux. I'd much rather repurpose something cheaper if I can.
>>2751834
That sounds even uglier than rubber bands

[Anonymous No.2751854]

>>2751853
They make different color flex seal

[Anonymous No.2751895]

how do I stop wanting to commit seppuku every time I make a mistake at work

[Anonymous No.2751904]

>>2751821
Why not just install these?

[Anonymous No.2751947]

>>2751133
>>2751146
This is from a Norwegian reality TV show were they experiment on various ways to destroy a house. Including filling it completely with water.

[Anonymous No.2751948]

>>2751816
>If nothing sticks to teflon,
This is false.

[Anonymous No.2751959]

>>2751821

[Anonymous No.2751978]

Hello, I'm thinking of hiring a small mini digger / excavator to dig holes for planting a bunch of young fruit trees. Is this this the right tool for the job or is there something better?

[Anonymous No.2751985]

>>2751959
Decent load.

[Anonymous No.2752038]

I live in an apartment with hydronic baseboard heating. There is a 3 wire thermostat on the wall which the landlord says works as long as you don’t set it past 75F. However all winter (even in -10F) the baseboard heaters are barely warm to the touch. Whether I set it at 55 or 95 the heat doesn’t change
Is there a simple way to check if this thermostat actually works? (My mother is paying rent on this this and she has this irrational fear that the landlord will raise the rent if she complains about anything so she never talks to the landlord about unit problems)
It’s a white Rogers 1f56n-444

[Anonymous No.2752048]

Do I need to set every fence post in cement or can I just bury them in dirt? I'm buying 8' posts and burying them about 3 feet in for a 6 foot privacy fence. I did a small probably 20' section and cemented them in, no problem, but for a separate project (bird house stand) I had to bury a 4x4 and with just dirt it's so solid I can't even wiggle it. If I can save some time by not having to mix and pour in the cement that'd be great.

I'm in zone 6b eastern PA, Frost depth here usually is 36-44 inches.

[Anonymous No.2752123]

>>2752038
There should be two wires, if you have a multimeter you could measure connectivity between them: if they are not connected while the heating should be on (room temperature below setpoint for a few minutes), it’s a thermostat problem. You can also connect the leads together with a wire or tin foil: if the baseboard heating still feels barely warm, it’s a problem with the heating

[Anonymous No.2752137]

I ordered a clear acrylic sign and it arrived yesterday. Looks great but there's nothing protecting the sublimation paint on the back from scratches and I want to keep it protected since it'll be doing a lot of travelling. Would acrylic sealer spray be a good idea?

[Anonymous No.2752139]

>>2752137
What do you mean a clear acrylic sign? Like the kind you have in office buildings to show room numbers and stuff? I'd just spray it with clear gloss enamel spraypaint

[Anonymous No.2752141]

>>2752139
Something like pic related

[Anonymous No.2752142]

>>2752141
When you say you want to protect it while traveling, how much exposure is it gonna get? Like is it protection from just moving it around or is it mounted outside a vehicle and exposed to the weather or something?

[Anonymous No.2752152]

>>2752142
I'm gonna be packing it with other signage and merchandise in checked airline luggage, storage buckets etc. It's not staying in one spot.

[Anonymous No.2752158]

>>2752152
Yeah I'd just use clear spray enamel. Test it on one spot beforehand to make sure it doesn't make it look like shit.

[Anonymous No.2752180]

Can I use leather 'cord' like pic related to string a chair? I have not bought it, yet and also have no idea how they would make an endless string of a product like leather. You can buy it on a roll of up to 100 m for about 50€/$.
Am I buying plastic chink crap that will break under the smallest strain?

[Anonymous No.2752236]

>>2752048
>If I can save some time by not having to mix and pour in the cement that'd be great.

If you still want them in concrete, you don't have to mix and pour. Just dump and pour.
Put the post in the hole (centered) props to keep it plumb is recommended.
With the post upright and plumb, dump concrete mix around the post leaving a few inches unfilled.
Keeping the post upright (props help), pour water in the void left at the top.
You can poke it with a stick or bar if you want but just putting the water on top will work.
Add more water if it drains away too quickly.
After a few minutes, fill the hole the rest of the way with concrete mix and move on to the next post and hole.

[Anonymous No.2752238]

>>2751821
It's not a matter of how she grips it!

[Anonymous No.2752239]

>>2751821
Cut a hole ~ 1" in diameter in a tennis ball (to clear the shaft on the knob)
Split the tennis ball from the hole you cut to midway of the ball (North pole to the equator)
Slip the ball over the knob and it should stay.
Try it on one and if it doesn't work, you know one more way that isn't what you want.

[Anonymous No.2752240]

>>2752239
>Split the tennis ball from the hole you cut to midway of the ball
I left out that you should do this in two or three places equally spaced around the hole.
I'd try just two cuts first.

[Anonymous No.2752241]

>>2752038
>landlord
Well there's your issue. Those awful creatures don't fix anything, and think humans can survive any conditions without discomfort. They really like money though, and seem to rub their hands together a lot.

[Anonymous No.2752243]

>>2752180
It's probably fine. Leather cord is made from strips laid end to end fused with heat and pressure. If you're worried about it you could interleave a bit of kevlar thread.
>>2752137
Ordinary spray clearcoat? Should be fine. Another possibility, if you expect to replace it ever, would be a thin solution of paraloid b-72, which is what they use to protect fossils in museums. Crystal clear, durable, and can be removed.
>>2751895
recognize that the only thing that matters is getting fired. if you're not getting fired, you're fine. perfectionism with no reward is a waste of time slaving away for a company that doesn't care about you.
>>2751978
a post-hole digger would be cheaper. they come in manual and engine-driven forms.

[Anonymous No.2752246]

I need to build some wheel cribs for my car. What should I use to seal them? Regular exterior house paint? They're going to be outside, and it's been raining a lot.

[Anonymous No.2752247]

>>2752246
I would use pressure treated wood, preferably rated for ground contact. No need to paint or seal. If you have to use ordinary wood you could use one coat of oil or alkyd primer then two coats of oil or alkyd gloss paint. Or get high quality marine spar varnish and apply per the label.

[Anonymous No.2752250]

>>2752247
Excellent. Thanks, anon.

[Anonymous No.2752255]

>>2751813
Yes, but then everyone would know you're gay so you wouldn't really be thinking about it

[Anonymous No.2752293]

>>2752239
I hadn't thought of using a ball, that's just what I need. Thanks anon.

[Anonymous No.2752317]

>>2752180
>Can I use leather 'cord' like pic related to string a chair?
Yes. But it won't last very long.

[Anonymous No.2752321]

>>2751813
The concept of north/south/east/west kind of breaks down the closer you get the one of the poles. Depending on how you you define "north" then the answer to your question could be "yes" or "not really"

[Anonymous No.2752322]

I'm a poorfag that bought a shitty used portable shed to do some woodworking in. How fucked are my projects/tools going to be in that unconditioned space? I live in the south in the US. Moderately cold winters, ~15 degree lows at night possible, and pretty warm summers that hit around ~95 degrees. Also very, very, very humid.

[Anonymous No.2752334]

>>2752322
keep your shit oiled and during the summer put a container of damprid in there

[Anonymous No.2752363]

>>2752236
I read in a masonry book that you could just leave bags of concrete outside and they would cure in place when it rained. Someone tried this nearby and they just fell apart. I would mix it, personally.

You are supposed to avoid any wood and dirt contact, I think. Usually you will see rot wherever there is contact with the dirt and wood from a fence. It's an obvious thing to avoid. There may be an exception if you live in the desert or somewhere it never rains.

[Anonymous No.2752403]

>>2752363
>Someone tried this nearby and they just fell apart.

[Anonymous No.2752409]

>>2752363
>Some retard with zero idea what they were doing threw out a bunch of concrete bags and their shitty wall fell apart
ftfy

[Anonymous No.2752414]

Looking for a UK source of 80/20 extrusion around 12mm x 16mm. These measurements are taking from a PCB holder made of the stuff. I was wondering where to find some.

[Anonymous No.2752552]

>>2752403
May not be as easy as it looks. The book I was reading was a quikcrete branded book, the one with Don Knotts on the cover, so it's possible it only works with certain brands or types. The devil's in the details.

[Anonymous No.2752611]

>>2752552
>The devil's in the details.
These things called "tie backs." Basically a rod that goes horizontally from the wall into the dirt to try and counteract the pressure of the dirt pushing outwards.

[Anonymous No.2752662]

Anons, any of you tried the olsa gearless ratchet?
My main concern is how do I resist temptation to stick it up my butthole?
Should I just buy two and not worry about it?

[Anonymous No.2752696]

my toilet only flushes every other flush so you have to flush twice for it to actually flush. also i always have to run the dryer twice for things to come dry. please advise on how to fix these my mom and dad would be so impressed if i actually made myself handy around here

[Anonymous No.2752751]

>>2752414
> 12x16mm
Afaik there’s no 80/20 profile smaller than 20mm are you sure it’s not 11x20 Bosch?

[Anonymous No.2752754]

>>2752552
>The book I was reading was a quikcrete branded book, the one with Don Knotts on the cover
Haha i had to google it.
Because when I think of building with concrete, Barney Fife isn't the first person that comes to mind.

[Anonymous No.2752791]

>>2751810
what is the best tape to use 'underwater' ?
got a mini sump pump hooked up and want to keep the input tube held down (without modding the container). Bonus if its decently heat resistant

[Anonymous No.2752856]

>>2751810
Can herbs like picrel grow in a room with no natural light and only indoor electric lights? I run a kitchen and want to have fresh herbs without buying them but idk if the light is the right type

[Anonymous No.2752873]

>>2752856
get an under cabinet full spectrum tube light for them

[Anonymous No.2752909]

I got this glass carboy that was used for storing Olive Oil and now I want to clean it out
Any tips for getting all this gunk out? I filled it with dishsoap water and left it there but this stuff is stubborn

[Anonymous No.2752912]

>>2752909
TSP substitute would probably annihilate everything, need to wash it really good after though.

[Anonymous No.2752950]

>>2752873
Or a broken aero garden, they’re deadass simple to fix. I have 2 of the fancy $200+ ones that I got for $10-15 because the grow lights were flickering. The fix was literally changing 2 caps on the power supply and cleaning the stuck float switch that made the tank think it was constantly empty because it had gotten all gunked up and sat dry for like 3 years

[Anonymous No.2753029]

>>2752246
you can change an axle while the car is lifted on these?

[Anonymous No.2753033]

what kind of uses can you get out of an 100w led flood light
can you use it for photography will it blind me is

[Anonymous No.2753092]

are there step drill bits for dremel-like rotary tools? i'm trying to find some, but all i find are for regular drills

[Anonymous No.2753106]

If I install a (small) wood-burning stove in my (small) cabin for comfy heat, wouldn't it melt the jacket on my wiring inside the walls? I know you are supposed to install heat shielding, but it seems to me like that wouldn't be effective enough. Still, many people have wood burning stoves, and I'm sure many of them are located at or near wiring. Or am I wrong? Is this something I should have planned well before installing the electrical? Does my concern even make sense? I would hate to have a house fire because of electrical problems.

[Anonymous No.2753111]

>>2753092
Closest you're gonna get is using a pendant motor flex shaft like jewelers use, with a 44T style handpiece that accepts up to 1/4" shanks.

[Anonymous No.2753158]

can these generic chinese worm gear motors driven from the output shaft? i need a low power generator and the footprint would be ideal.
I know they can depending on the geometry, but im asking specifically about the ones looking like pic

>>2753106
>inside the walls
you are supposed the keep it at a distance and it wont heat the walls to 200°
The thing you should be concernd is the stovepipe wall port, if that thing fails your cabin will burn

[Anonymous No.2753175]

>>2753158
Worm drives can only go one way. That's like the second most important thing

[Anonymous No.2753177]

>>2753158
Not any of the ones I’ve used, I think they all use pretty much the same geometry and they’re pretty high ratio so I doubt you’ll find any. Also those that can be back driven normally have huge friction losses when back driving so I don’t think they would be suitable anyway

[Anonymous No.2753184]

>>2752856
> no natural light and only indoor electric lights
No, at least not well. But a single dedicated 60W bulb/spot (or 15W led) may be enough for a few plants like that. Indoor lightning (incandescent) is like normally 2-3W per sqft, those plants want want about 40W.

[Anonymous No.2753186]

>>2753175
i dont know how they do it, but exceptions exist. but ive only ever seen it in >500$ motors
guess i have no choice but going for a planetary gearbox then

[Anonymous No.2753199]

Anyone made a drone jammer before? Is it as simple as a frequency generator on the drone control bands feeding into an amplifier into a directional antenna?

[Anonymous No.2753204]

>>2753199
You will be vanned by the FCC

[Anonymous No.2753215]

What is this lamp part called? I tried to press it back on but it’s too bent to stay

[Anonymous No.2753221]

>>2752791
I'd use metal strapping

[Anonymous No.2753239]

>>2753215
>What is this lamp part called?
socket
rotary switch lamp socket

[Anonymous No.2753249]

>>2753029
If you mean the actual axle and not the whole rear end assembly, then yes. You would put jackstands on the cribs and support the rear end. If you're doing that, I don' think you need the cribs though.

[Anonymous No.2753252]

>>2753199
That both depends on what frequencies are being used and what sorts of interference avoidance it's capable of. You'd have to jam an awful large portion of the bandwidth to bring some of them down, and it may just resort to flying home. You're better off learning to hijack the control link and feeding it bullshit. Of course, there's a good chance that the feds will come after you for it.

[Anonymous No.2753268]

Hey /diy/.
I want to test out some cooking fats like lard for adulteration or warped fatty acid profiles.
Is there a practical way to do this myself or otherwise how might I find a lab to test it for me.
I'm in the UK if that helps at all.
I tried google but all I got were labs testing blood work but I just want fatty acid profiles for a block of fat...

[Anonymous No.2753271]

>>2753175
>>2753186
Yes the big ones can be back driven, in a double or triple start the worm just has a steeper angle so the effective friction angle is reduced. But still the friction angle is too bad to do anything useful back driving them. It’s mostly used for machines that must be hand movable when off, and to avoid sudden braking in high interial loads (ie avoid damaging the gears in a sudden stop).

If you get caught inside a machine part driven by a self locking worm gear and press an emergency stop, you are stuck there until someone reverses the machine

[Anonymous No.2753272]

>>2753268
I figure there must be food safety labs that do this all day but where to start?

[Anonymous No.2753299]

>>2753268
The standard way is GCMS, the machines that can do it are about $30-50k, but it’s pretty standard equipment and procedure in most food analysis labs and many universities offer it as a service. Quick Google tells me that UCL does it for £20 per hour for students at any university in the UK but maybe if you call them they can do it for you if it’s non commercial

[Anonymous No.2753329]

>>2753299
Thank you.
I'll look for food analysis labs

[Anonymous No.2753374]

>>2752662
olsa makes no tools, these are all rebrands
the US ones are SK lp90
the rest are chinesium, you can find the same shut under titan brand on scamazon

[Anonymous No.2753388]

>>2751813
>In fact wouldnt the wind always be blowing north ?
It's blowing northward if you're facing the wind. Because you feel the wind blowing from the south toward you.
But if you turn so the wind is at your back, now south is downwind. And the wind is blowing southward.

[Anonymous No.2753419]

I've seen picrel shilled non-stop, is it really useful outside of maybe bike/motorcycle on-the-go kit?

[Anonymous No.2753421]

I’ve got a genesis game with wrecked traces. This video has a workable solution using coated wire. What gauge wire do you think he’s using?

Jump to 3:50. On a friggen tablet and couldn’t figure out how to link to a time in the vid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDW8P0mP4qI

[Anonymous No.2753422]

>>2753419
This is the shit your well meaning aunt buys you for Christmas. It’s only value is to scavenge and replace the 10mm you lost last fall.

You need a tool roll for you motorcycle, this thing is Mickey Mouse.

[Anonymous No.2753456]

Where can I buy real tools in Australia?

[Anonymous No.2753466]

>>2753419
I actually was gifted a metric one of those sets for christmas this year.
It is WAY nicer than it looks in pictures, every single piece is extremely high quality.
From the way the local court jester on here talks about wera, I halfway expected it to be mediocre. In reality its 100% tool truck brand quality.

Only you can decide if that particular set would be useful to you or not, it is kind of an odd set. But I will say im sold on Weras bits in general.

[Anonymous No.2753467]

>>2753456
Drink Grog
I wish they sold it in the USA

[Anonymous No.2753469]

>>2753419
It is okay but I would get a smaller one for motorcycle, most motorcycles use 1 or 2 socket head types (eg hex and torx), you’d want longer extension and something actually strong enough to tension the chain.

Also you can get pretty good bit boxes for $10-$20 and and get a separate ratchet for $30 and you’ll have nicer boxes for less than this kit costs. There’s good wera stuff but this kit is overstuffed and too compact

[Anonymous No.2753530]

>>2752909
dishsoap is cheap and very potent
just repeat the process 10 times with warm water

[Anonymous No.2753538]

>>2753421
>What gauge wire do you think he’s using?

that really is a stupid question.
you can use anything that's roughly the size of the trace, say from #34 to #22.
video guy is using super shitty/dangerous chink enamel wire, where the enamel burns off with just a bit if heat.
you can just take an old power cord, or speaker wire, and pull off one of the strands.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2753558]

>>2753456
Bunnings has AEG, which is Ridgid, and that stuff isn’t bad. Or jump up to Makita or DeWalt and pay the tax. But if you’re just doing DIY type stuff, you don’t really need to spend $$$ on Makita everything, the Ryobi should be fine.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2753559]

>>2753419
I bought one for the father-in-law. It’s fine, Wera is overpriced for what it is, it’s only Reddit fanbois like >>2753466 who have great reviews upon unboxing because they have never seen non-chrome sockets with color on them before.

Anyway, back to real world use, they work like a 1/4” bit ratchet should, it’s no better than my $20 Gearwrench set. The fancy holder seems nice, but within 6mos of moderate use, the dad in-law’s set no longer held onto a bunch of pieces properly. The screwdriver handle is held on by those folding plastic tabs that don’t last at all.

For alternatives that are all pretty solid and not overpriced with a bunch of extra bits, the Gearwrench micro ratchet set is like $15 on sale often on Amazon, Sunex sells a couple sets for like $20-$35 depending if you want a flex head, and HF’s Icon just released a new 1/4” bit driver set for $30-$40 that has a lot of cool features, I hate HF but I strongly suggest taking a look at that Icon.

If you want something more snowflake-y without being a #ToolRebel, there’s a Tone set on Amazon that’s way more affordable than you would expect. There’s a Facom set with sockets about the same price as the Wera as well, which means maybe there’s a Craftsman V-Series branded set for less.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2753561]

>>2753419
>>2753559
Here’s the Facom set. Facom is like the Mac Tools of Yurop, it’s a solid mechanic tool brand. This is about the same price as the Wera, and it looks perfect for a motorcycle if the 6-8-10-12-13mm sockets work for you.

Check out the Gearwrench or the Sunex flex head set if you want more socket sizes for less money.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2753575]

>>2753419
>>2753561
Sunex set in picrel. This is the one I’m going to get if I ever have an excuse to get rid of the Gearwrench set.

[Anonymous No.2753607]

>>2752696
Dryer vent is probably just clogged.
>>2753419
Wera tools are nice. Their screwdrivers and L-wrenches are top-tier, their impact bit holder is garbage, everything else is real nice but probably not worth the price.

[Anonymous No.2753637]

>>2752696
Clean the dryer vent and then clean the dryer out through the back vent also
Also make sure you're cleaning the lint guard every load and also cleaning out around the lint guard periodically
One big maintenance issue with dryers is that the dryer's air intake can get clogged (all the sluts on the back of the unit).
If you thoroughly clean the duct and the exhaust on the dryer and it still won't dry, you'll need to pull it out, pop off the top and the back panel and vacuum all the dust and shit out of the back intake slots

Open the toilet tank.
You need to make sure the tank is filling all the way by adjusting the bobber and make sure it flushes all the way by adjusting the flapper

>>2753033
Just throw it away lmaooooo

>>2751895
Stop caring
It's easiest to stop caring when you undoubtedly try your best at everything
You should only be embarrassed if you're half assing shit which is a child's game

[Anonymous No.2753647]

>>2753637
throw it in your mom?

[Anonymous No.2753678]

>>2753647
You asked what to do with trash
I told you to throw it away
Insulting my mother, regardless of her harlotism was completely unnecessary

[Anonymous No.2753693]

>>2753678
>powerful light
>trash
your harlot mom raised a stupid fuck

[Anonymous No.2753766]

Would it be at all practical to make an off grid refrigerator with compressed air? Use solar to run a compressor, store that in a big pressure tank, then run a line an expansion valve and run the cool air through piping in an insulated box?
How efficient would the cycle be? 50% loses from panel to fridge? More?
How do I calculate the necessary volume of the pressure vessel?
Solar panels are affordable, battery banks are expensive. If a couple steel tanks could replace a chunk of energy storage, that would be pretty neat.

[Anonymous No.2753774]

>>2751810
what is the optimal temperature to pour down a mix of self leveling Teflon coating?

[Anonymous No.2753797]

>>2753766
>Would it be at all practical to make an off grid refrigerator with compressed air?
No.

[Anonymous No.2753833]

>>2753559
>who have great reviews upon unboxing because they have never seen non-chrome sockets with color on them before.
What actually happens is people see the driver bits which are relief ground and hard nickel coated, Metric set also has 5 diamond coated phillips bits.
Yes, the satin chrome on the socket is very nice, but the knurling and broaching and overall build of the socket is top notch too.

Not to mention the ratchet mechanism is way nicer on the ratchet than the 3 or so other bit ratchets I have.

Its a bit driver set.
The BITS are what matters most, and the Wera bits stomp out everyone else quite frankly.
My ratcheting Snap-On screwdriver came with generic old uncoated s2 bits, just like every single kit you posted.

Its clear you have never actually touched the set, and reddit lives too rent free in your mind.
You would be screaming at the top of your lungs if this same exact set said "Koken" on it, talking about how superior it is in every way
At this point nobody should be taking you seriously, you havent touched this wera set and also are shilling for other sets you havent touched.

[Anonymous No.2753859]

>>2753833
stop talking to that jester

[Anonymous No.2753911]

>>2753766
>Use solar to run a compressor,

Use the solar to run a refrigerator compressor instead of an air compressor.

[Anonymous No.2753920]

>>2753911
Then use the heat from the compressor to dry out a phase change material that can later be rehydrated to produce heat

[Anonymous No.2753973]

>>2751810
What options do I have to shade my patio? Anything from an awning to full enclosures. I don't know all of the terminology

[Anonymous No.2753980]

>>2753973
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIg0iMMR2lc

[Anonymous No.2754023]

>>2753911
>sun goes down
>fridge turn off
Battery banks are expensive and refrigeration requires quite a bit of capacity. So a simple physical energy storage would be nice to have.
>>2753797
Why? Is the difference in efficiency between air and whatever is in the fridge so big?
Too much storage space for the pressure tanks?
Or is it just "Fuck diy, go buy something?"

[Anonymous No.2754025]

>>2751810
Any suggestions for platforms where I could build a phone app? I'm basically wanting to make something that has audio permissions and allows the app to modify the EQ of any audio output, preferably in a channel-independent manner.

[Anonymous No.2754068]

I bought a Dutch oven for $5 and needed to clean the rust off of it, now what?
Before

[Anonymous No.2754070]

>>2754068
After

[Anonymous No.2754071]

>>2754068
>now what?
Fart in it

[Anonymous No.2754077]

>>2754068
>Dutch oven
where is the lid?

[Anonymous No.2754084]

>>2754077
It was cracked, but I have a pan I can fit on top as a lid

[Anonymous No.2754088]

>>2754070
>>2754068
congratulations, you ruined it

[Anonymous No.2754127]

>>2754088
Not really possible to ruin it unless you like break it into pieces or drill holes into it or some shit. just needs to be reseasoned and it’ll take ages of use to build it up before the seasoning gets anywhere near where it was before

[Anonymous No.2754206]

Saw a video a while back where a guy was scratching into a pcb and I'd like to know more about the process. Is there a technical name or a video where I can learn about it?

[Anonymous No.2754209]

>>2754206
what do you mean "scratching into a pcb"? like carving traces into copperclad board?

[Anonymous No.2754210]

>>2754209
He scratched at the green part to create another line and then soldered a wire onto it. Can't remember if he drilled through.

[Anonymous No.2754211]

i have a double bowl kitchen sink. one side has a garbage disposal and the other just has a drain. both sides won't drain and when i run the garbage disposal the water level in the other side rises. how do i fix this

[Anonymous No.2754224]

>>2754211
There is a clog somewhere downstream of the tee that joins the two sides. Make sure you have a bucket / buckets that will hold all the water in the sink/disposal, pop the tee and snake the downstream.

[Anonymous No.2754225]

>>2754210
for like trace repair? where you scratch the solder mask off of part of a broken trace and solder a piece of magnet wire in its place?

[Anonymous No.2754228]

>>2754225
I'm a complete noob. Are traces the 2D wiring? If so, he created a trace with a sharp implement.

[Anonymous No.2754229]

If I want to frame a wooden interior (false) wall for insulation inside an exterior brick wall, there seem to be two ways:
- (1) Start with a horizontal board on the floor and ceiling, and keep the entire false wall 1/2” removed from the brick wall
- (2) Attach vertical beams right onto the brick wall and put the isolation against the brick wall as well

How big is the difference in insulating properties? I’d rather go for (2) because the because it seems much easier to do.

[Anonymous No.2754231]

>>2754228
>Are traces the 2D wiring?
yes. traces are areas where there is copper underneath the solder mask. during the manufacturing process, they start with a piece of fiberglass with copper covering one or both sides completely (see pic), and much of the copper is then selectively etched away. they then silkscreen a layer of solder mask, which is that green stuff, onto the board to protect the copper from oxidization and make soldering easier by preventing accidental bridges.

You can scrape solder mask away with a knife, which will reveal the underlying copper (if there is some there), or the bare PCB substrate (fiberglass board). You can't add traces after the fact, but if a trace is broken, you can scrape some of the solder mask on each side of the break away, and then solder a piece of thin wire to bridge the gap.

[Anonymous No.2754232]

Replacing a section of galvanized that corroded through. I cut the bad section, removed it and replaced it with a new piece but the threads don't tighten the same directions.

What am I doing wrong and what's the correct way to do this?

[Anonymous No.2754234]

>>2754025
Find a 'making an app in iphone / android' and just follow the tutorials on it.
Such as
>Learning Android: Develop Mobile Apps Using Java and Eclipse
>from mid 2010's
or
>Making Musical Apps: Real-Time Audio Synthesis on Android and IOS
>this one might be a bit older

If you hang around book stores and libraries you will commonly come across android and iphone development books. It's easier to vet whether the book is good or bad in person or by looking at a pdf online before buying.

[Anonymous No.2754235]

How do I conquer my fear of heights? Every time I look down at my feet the distance between myself and the floor is unbelievably nauseating and it doesn't help that I'm starting a carpentry apprenticeship next week. Are they gonna make me use ladders?

[Anonymous No.2754237]

>>2754235
start shoving things up your ass, increase in size and hopefully by the time you start you'll be at the point where if you fall off a ladder you can cushion your fall by anally voring one of your coworkers.

[Anonymous No.2754238]

>>2754023
>Is the difference in efficiency between air and whatever is in the fridge so big?
Very

[Anonymous No.2754243]

>>2754235
>Are they gonna make me use ladders?

ladders are passé.
bamboo scaffolding is the new trend.
very safe, very comfy.
hardly even need safety harnesses.

[Anonymous No.2754248]

>>2754127
Previous seasoning was layered with rust, flaking, and 3/16 thick in some areas. It looked like it was never properly taken care of

[Anonymous No.2754250]

>>2754232
>what's the correct way to do this?

[Anonymous No.2754252]

>>2754224
i don't see a tee joining them just two separate p traps running into the wall

[Anonymous No.2754254]

>>2754252
>i don't see a tee joining them just two separate p traps running into the wall
They're joined inside the wall.

[Anonymous No.2754255]

>>2754254
how do i get in there

[Anonymous No.2754261]

>>2754248
Then the correct thing is remove it and start over, despite what that guy said. Who wants to eat rust. Shame to lose seasoning thats that’s been built up for decades but if it’s been poorly maintained then it is what it is

[Anonymous No.2754285]

>>2754266

[Anonymous No.2754286]

>>2754255
Open up the wall. Or remove one of the P traps and push a snake in. If you are lucky you'll dislodge the clog. Or you could try some sodium hydroxide aka liquid-plumbr or drano or your regional equivalent.

[Anonymous No.2754355]

I've got a 4 AA battery holder, basic stuff, 2 wires coming off it, 6V output, but I want to siphon off 2 of the batteries to power a 3V circuit, while still running the 6V.

Is this possible?

[Anonymous No.2754356]

>>2754355
yes

[Anonymous No.2754366]

>>2754356
Looking into it a bit more it seems like the unbalanced load might cause issues. I might just take the full voltage and put it through a 3V regulator instead.

[Anonymous No.2754414]

>>2754232
hold your breath and weld it

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2754454]

>>2753833
Kek. #TOOLREBEL!

As if anything they do is really that innovative. And of the things you could honestly say Wera is good at, it’s not their ratchets.

[Anonymous No.2754458]

>>2754366
>unbalanced load might cause issues

no issues.
it's just that 2 of the batteries will die sooner, reducing the 6V faster than normal.
replace those 2 batteries twice as often, and you're back in business.
a regulator will cause power loss thru heat, but make all 4 batteries die evenly.

[Anonymous No.2754460]

>>2754366
this would be an issue if you were using lithium batteries, AAs are alkaline or carbon zinc. there are lithium based ones, but I think the content is so low that they're not dangerous.

[Anonymous No.2754471]

>>2752696
In addition to what others have said the problem could also be the washing machine not fully spinning the clothes. If they are still wet going into the dryer the washer is the problem

[Anonymous No.2754476]

I've got some kinda nice walkie talkies from ~15 years ago where the overmoulded rubber has gone all sticky. What do I have to soak the rubber in to get rid of this? Or will I have to ditch the rubber bits and 3D print a new enclosure for them? I do have some TPU loaded so I may be able to make them waterproof by printing a gasket. Not sure about the speaker and mic though.

[Anonymous No.2754478]

>>2754476
The rubber is degrading, you can't just clean the gunk off. You can get a plastic spudger and scrape all of the rubber off, plasti-dip over it and pretend everything is okay, or just get new walkie talkies for like $30.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2754495]

>>2754366
See >>2754458

You just need to put an extra wire in between cell 2 and 3, so + of cell 1 and - of cell 4 will be 6V, and then - of cell 2/ + of cell 3 to either + or cell 1 or - of cell 4 will give you 3V.

I have seen it done, my mom gave me these 8x AA battery packs she gets from work, they use em in some medical device and throw them out after only using them a little bit.

The little connector has 3 points and you can get 12V or 6V from it. There’s 3 wires, one at cell 1, one at the other end on cell 8, and the third wire between cells 4 and 5. I ripped one apart the other day, it’s exactly what you’re trying to do.

[Anonymous No.2754497]

>>2754476
>>2754478
Actually I found that it wasn't overmoulded at all, it was some sort of surface treatment of the ABS itself, to turn it rubbery. With some IPA and scrubbing it came off. Still a tiny bit tacky, but good enough. I can't find any information about this ABS surface treatment though.

[Anonymous No.2754500]

>>2754476
>overmoulded rubber has gone all sticky.

that's probably the stuff they call ''soft touch'' - it goes bad after about 10 years.
you essentially have to rub it all off using erasers, cloth, scotch-brite, or what-have-you.
it's hard work.
the more abrasive the tool, the faster it'll work, but the more scratched-up it'll become.

[Anonymous No.2754504]

>>2754454
Its ok bepis, I would deflect too if I were sitting here telling people to buy bit sets that included uncoated garbage bits.
Some people might actually appreciate getting nice bits, when buying a bit set

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2754507]

>>2754504
Hey bby I admitted they have decent bits and drivers, but they’re nothing that special compared to other premium bits and drivers.

And the rest of the stuff they do trying to reinvent the wheel tends to be overpriced, quality on par with most Taiwan brands, and like many German engineering programs, does not work very well with real world use, hence my complaints about that $90 mini ratchet kit that no longer holds together after a few months of use.

[Anonymous No.2754508]

>>2754507
>but they’re nothing that special compared to other premium bits and drivers.
Interesting, maybe you should have posted other premium bits and drivers instead of posting Sunex drivel from amazon.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2754513]

>>2754508
Stick some fuckin Milwaukee Shockwave bits in there as you wear out the old bits, if you ever do. Or even better, get some Wiha bits! Or some of these crunchy USA made bits I got on standby even though the Gearwrench bits have been holding up just fine. The micro precision ratchet sets are for tight spots, those aren’t like all day driving bits anyway.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2754514]

>>2754508
Oooh man I guess Wera wasn’t the first to think of the idea to put little grooves on their bits!

[Anonymous No.2754527]

>>2754513
>>2754514
look how clean those are!
not a chip or scratch in sight!

larper

[Anonymous No.2754528]

>>2754527
Leave the man alone, he just likes buying lots of tools.
Thats why he likes low quality tools, gives him excuses to buy redundant tools to replace his disposable stuff.

[Anonymous No.2754529]

>>2754231
Thanks, that was helpful.
>You can't add traces after the fact
Isn't there a sheet of exposable copper underneath the green layer(solder mask?)?

[Anonymous No.2754532]

>>2753419
My lesbian friend has these. She doesn't use them, or any of her thousands of dollars worth of brightly colored tools, but she has them along with every other Kraftform Kompakt Zyklop whatever-the-fuck Wera sells. She also owns dozens of Benchmade knives and only uses Benchmade BlueLube Cleaner and Lubricant for them on a regular basis even though none ever get used, also has dozens of Spyderco knives and only uses NanoLube Nano-Oil on those, always has the latest iPhone, gets a new MacBook Pro every year, refreshes the BMW lease every year, new Givenchy or Ferragamo handbags on a regular basis (which she claims are basically secret unknown elite brands, and that regular Gucci and Prada customers are stupid and/or jealous), and so on and so forth with everything in her life.

I think that's the target market, women (men?) who buy literally anything that's advertised to them in a pretentious manner.

[Anonymous No.2754534]

>>2754529
>Isn't there a sheet of exposable copper underneath the green layer(solder mask?)?

>>2754529
>You can scrape solder mask away with a knife, which will reveal the underlying copper

[Anonymous No.2754535]

>>2754529
Only in places where the copper wasn't etched away during the etching process. Many boards have "copper pours" where otherwise unused space is left intact instead of etched away, often used for sinking heat or as a ground plane.
This is a PCB without solder mask applied, note the exposed copper and translucent yellowish substrate underneath.

[Anonymous No.2754536]

>>2754532
>She doesn't use them, or any of her thousands of dollars worth of brightly colored tools
Reminds me a lot like a certain tripfag on this board

[Anonymous No.2754537]

>>2754532
Reminder that Bepis brags about owning a counterfeit Benchmade from wish.

[Anonymous No.2754538]

>>2754534
>which will reveal the underlying copper
Yeah, but why doesn't that create a trace then?

>>2754535
Okay, I think I know what I didn't understand. I thought there was a flat sheet of copper underneath and the solder mask was what prevented the traces from connecting to other traces.

[Anonymous No.2754539]

>>2754535
>>2754529
for shits n giggles, here's a board that uses black FR-4 (a type of Fire-Resistant fiberglass) and transparent solder mask not at all common). The different parts are as follows:
>black
substrate under transparent solder mask
>brown
copper under transparent solder mask
>gold
exposed copper that's been immersion plated with gold, this process is referred to as ENIG. There is no solder mask covering this, so it can be soldered to.
>white
this is the "silkscreen" layer. Solder mask is also silkscreened, but when PCB designers say silkscreen, they generally mean this. It's used for indicators and text and stuff. Sometimes pictures.
>>2754538
>I thought there was a flat sheet of copper underneath and the solder mask was what prevented the traces from connecting to other traces.
nah, the mask is basically just a layer of pretty tough, UV-cured (as opposed to air-dry) paint. It's non-conductive so if you accidentally poke two adjacent mask-covered traces, it won't short.

[Anonymous No.2754545]

>>2754538
>Yeah, but why doesn't that create a trace then?
when you expose some copper by scraping away some solder mask, you're not creating a trace, you're just exposing part of it, if it is even a trace. if it's a copper pour (seen here as large brown areas), you're just exposing part of that pour. A trace is a trace because it connects things in its "net" (a labeled group of pads connected by one or more traces or pours) and only those things, and it's a trace whether it's exposed and solderable, or completely covered up.

[Anonymous No.2754548]

>>2754539
>>2754545
Thanks lads. I must've seen the guy etch out an area and then solder a wire in its place.

[Anonymous No.2754551]

>>2754548
you're probably thinking of this technique for repairing broken traces.
Another possibility is you've seen someone use copper foil tape for the same purpose. This works but it's not particularly durable, so you won't see it done by professional repair techs.

[Anonymous No.2754554]

>>2754551
That was probably it. Is copper foil tape a reliable way to create a basic wiring board? Say I want to make my switch to an exhaust fan a lot slimmer, could I use copper foil tape? Do I need to consider insulation or anything like that?

[Anonymous No.2754557]

>>2754261
>Shame to lose seasoning
why does this matter?

[Anonymous No.2754559]

>>2754554
>Is copper foil tape a reliable way to create a basic wiring board?
No. As far as electronics go, by far the most common use of copper tape is for EMI/RFI shielding, where the inside of an otherwise nonconductive (usually plastic) enclosure is lined with the tape and then the tape is connected to circuit ground.
If you have need of a simple, one-off circuit board, you should use "protoboard". alternatively, some people prefer "stripboard" which is basically the same thing but organized as strips.
Most people building projects on protoboard don't bother with insulating the resulting board. It only really matters if you expect it to get wet or come into contact with metal that might short things out. If this is the case, you can dip the whole thing (after soldering) in plasti-dip, or just slide some heat-shrink tubing over it and hit it with a heat gun.
picture shows a simple project constructed on a piece of protoboard.

[Anonymous No.2754563]

>>2754559
Interesting, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2754565]

>>2754557
It's a big part of iron cookware. It's a layer of carbonized oil that creates a rust-resistant nonstick surface. Without it, you've got bare pan that wants to flash-rust and everything sticks to it. Normal usage helps build and maintain the seasoning, a well used pan should be much nicer to use than a new one. With the seasoning damaged or removed, your pan is a piece of shit until you deliberately season it and start the process over. Shit happens, I've had good cast iron pans go neglected and have to be stripped and seasoned again, it's not that big of a deal. It does take a long time to get back to that nice well-used pan level of nonstick and easy-cleaning goodness though.

[Anonymous No.2754581]

what is this called, and is there a parts kit for it? mine is leaking, and is full of rust.
i installed a rust filter last year.

[Anonymous No.2754586]

>>2754581
complete replacement: https://www.flushmaterepairparts.com/sloan-m-101526-f3bk-flushmate-system
individual parts: https://www.sloanplumbingparts.com/flushmate-m-101526-f-parts-breakdown

[Anonymous No.2754593]

>>2754586
sweet, thanks

[Anonymous No.2754604]

>>2754514
>Wera wasn’t the first to think of the idea to put little grooves on their bits!
Vermont American was the first AFAIK
Bosch bought the company and continued the grooves in the Phillips bits.
If you buy the Bosch brand or Vermont American brand, you get the same bits.

[Anonymous No.2754605]

>>2754538
>Okay, I think I know what I didn't understand.

Just go on YouTube and look for a video of How Circuit Boards Are Made.

[Anonymous No.2754606]

>>2754070
Goddamn look at this big baller
Doritos and croissants in the cupboard

You put the Little Caesars and generic Ranch out just to make us think you're poor
But you've got the good shit hidden away

[Anonymous No.2754608]

>>2754586
What?
Do you mean to tell me,
When I post a photo with a clearly visible Model Number,
I can just google the model number instead of asking "what is this thing?"

[Anonymous No.2754614]

>>2754565
>>2754557 wasn't me, I have the pot. I'll be using it a few days a week to start reseasoning it. Already did a few heat ups and oil rubs to prevent rust, did the egg test this morning and performed decently.but not perfect. This thing is going into my camper so I don't have to haul my larger one.

[Anonymous No.2754622]

I live in California. Apparently its fucking illegal to own a 120v 25w light bulb used for lava lamps. I tried hardware stores, nothing. Tried amazon, said it couldnt ship but never said why. I tried ebay, ordered a set of 6, only to get a cancellation from the seller because of CA regulations.

Where the fuck can I buy a bulb for my lava lamp? Is there some fucking California compliant lava lamp bulb?

>Apparently there are city or state regulations that prevent us from legally shipping this particular item to you. We are very sorry to inform you that your order has been cancelled. We will be issuing you a full refund immediately. My most sincere apologies for any inconvenience this may have caused you. We wish we could ship this item to you but unfortunately our hands are tied as it would be illegal for us to do so.

[Anonymous No.2754627]

>>2754622
I wonder how the people who make these laws get into office. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Anonymous No.2754628]

>>2753421
jesus he is so rough with this shit and it still looks fucked up

[Anonymous No.2754629]

>>2754627
Chinese and Russian organized crime

[Anonymous No.2754631]

>>2754622
Keep trying on ebay. Find an unassuming, or poorly made ebay listing.

The seller didnt know there was a law, Ebay had to have seen X product to X state and flagged it.
If you can find a listing that falls outside of Ebay automated flagging system, itll ship no problem.

[Anonymous No.2754632]

>>2754622
If you haven't tried a pet store, check for heat lamps they sell for reptiles, I believe they're exempt.
Automotive halogens produce plenty of heat, a common 1156 bulb is all of $2-$3 and pulls ~25W at 12V, and 1156 bases are cheap and plentiful. Wouldn't be hard to do a conversion.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2754635]

>>2754537
The finest knockoff! They actually tricked Bass Pro Shops into selling the thing for $200!

[Anonymous No.2754637]

>>2754635

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2754640]

>>2754637
Why would you even buy the real thing if knockoffs are that good?

[Anonymous No.2754641]

>>2754640
True, thats literally what youve been chanting for the last 5 years on here.

[Anonymous No.2754649]

If I wanna make myself an airsoft smg, with 3d printer, will it be cheaper? can it be done with 40-50$ worth of filament? (if I buy standard wavebox, barrel, hopup, mag etc

[Beppu !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2754673]

>>2754641
Hue hue

[Anonymous No.2754695]

>>2754649
No, it will not be cheaper than a mass-produced chinky blaster.

[Anonymous No.2754727]

>>2754532
>who buy literally anything that's advertised to them in a pretentious manner.
That's the entire EDC market.

[Anonymous No.2754729]

I'm turning a busted laptop into a desktop for my kids. It's pretty capable as a first machine, but it's in (half) a laptop shell with no screen and no bottom. Still works great, though.

I want to 3D print a case for it, ideally, so I'm wondering: Where would I look to find CAD dimensions/files of this particular motherboard (HP ProBook 445R G6)? The alternative is for me to measure everything out, I'd just like to see if someone else has done the hard work for me.

[Anonymous No.2754731]

as a beginner who wants to do as much DIY as possible (home repairs, car fixes, woodworking, crafts, basic metal working, etc), should I get one of those giant 200+ tool sets or should I buy individual tools as I go (potentially more expensive)?

[Anonymous No.2754737]

>>2754622
Biden's Department of Energy banned the sale of incandescent bulbs back in July. The increase in single use plastics in our landfills from LED bulbs (that don't last longer) is worth the energy savings, chud.

>lava lamp
Face the wall and get down on your knees.

[Anonymous No.2754742]

>>2754737
>Biden's Department of Energy banned the sale of incandescent bulbs back in July.
It was under the Bush administration that the rule was proposed.
It was under the Obama administration that actually put the rule into place in 2007.
It was rolled back under Trump (he said energy efficient lighting makes him look orange).
It was put back into place under Biden.

[Anonymous No.2754746]

>>2754742
>But Obama!!!
Biden is just a puppet for shadow Obongo's third term. Besides you could still buy incandescent lamps when Obongo was president, bud.

[Anonymous No.2754747]

>>2754742
America used to make it's own lightbulbs. China makes LEDs and CFLs. America makes 0

[Anonymous No.2754748]

>>2754746
It was still during the sunset phase during bisb/Obama.

Remember when you couldn't buy 30w bulbs but could buy 25w 'energy saving' bulbs?

[Anonymous No.2754758]

>>2751810
Why isn't lens making more popular? I am trying to get into it but it seems to be quite a niche hobby. Kinda interested in glasses but mostly want to make better telescopes.

[Anonymous No.2754769]

>>2754729
Measure. You won't find that information, 0% chance. If you want to save some hassle, flat shit like that is easy to toss on a normal scanner, like a photo scanner. Can make for an easy and accurately scaled reference to design from.

[Beppu !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2754778]

>>2754731
Those 200+ piece sets are mechanics tool kits, it will cover most of what you need for sockets. I would go for one that comes with 1/4”, 3/8”, and 1/2” drive with some extensions and such for maybe $100-$200 from Craftsman or Husky or whoever. Don’t pay too much attention to the included wrenches because they often give you like 6-8 wrenches which barely covers anything, so your better off spending ~$50 on a whole 20-26pc wrench set that goes like 6mm-1/4” up to at least 19mm-3/4”.

They often come with a bunch of bits and a screwdriver handle for the extra piece count, those are mildly useful but you will probably want dedicated screwdrivers in the future, however those kits often have torx sizes you need once in a blue moon so the kits are worthwhile.

The kits rarely come with pliers or a hammer either, so pick out what you want for those. And the rest, get it as you need it.

But yeah, the ~200pc mechanic’s sets with all the sockets and ratchets are worth it, watch for the sales because $200 kits go down to $100-$150 often. If you wanted to piece out the ratchets and sockets, you would be at Home Depot a lot and you would easily spend that $100-$150 on the ratchets alone and a few sockets the first time you do an automotive job and you would be going back to Home Depot the next time you need to remove a plumbing fixture with SAE fasteners.

[Anonymous No.2754784]

>>2754731
do not listen to a single thing Beppu says, he is a retard, as indicated by his use of a tripcode and name on an anonymous gjoa haven inuktitut learning forum.
Generally speaking, buy individual tools as you need them. Large sets are either an incredible amount of money, or garbage. Start off by buying a bitholding screwdriver from a reputable brand. I like Wera, some people like Wiha, professionals often use Knipex. Also heard good things about the Linus Tech Tips screwdriver. If you want to get fancy, get one that ratchets. Pick up an assortment of insert bits (1/4") for it from any of the previous brands, or Bosch.

[Anonymous No.2754794]

>>2754784
>Start off by buying a bitholding screwdriver
>LTT
I have never and will never need such a thing as a fat uncomfortable screwdriver with small parts that can be lost and can't be used to do perfectly normal screwdriver things. Seems like a big waste of money to me. A product for people who don't actually use tools. I know several people who own them, none in the shop though, it's everyone who works in accounting and IT. People only use them to stick together Ikea furniture and balk at how it doesn't actually fit into their PC. It's trash for EDCtards and has no place in a toolbox. This dyke owns one and has never used it, average LTT screwdriver owner right here >>2754532

[Anonymous No.2754834]

Water sometimes gives me tingles.
Measured AC between faucet and ground and it measured 80v and 140v in another bathroom.

Reason for concern?
What should I do?

[Anonymous No.2754838]

>>2754834
>Reason for concern?
Yes. There is a real possibility of a shitty and avoidable death from this sort of problem.
>What should I do?
Call your utility company and/or an electrician. As I understand it, this can be caused by a neutral or ground fault and may be a problem that your utility company needs to fix depending on how your shit is set up. I'm not an electrician, take it with a grain of salt.

[Anonymous No.2754840]

>>2754838
I've checked grounding and there's less than 5v between live and ground
>>2754834

[Anonymous No.2754851]

>>2754758
There's a youtube of an old astronomer handgrinding a ~80cm mirror from scratch. It looks like a ton of work and very easy to mess up, but probably well worth it if you can pull it off. I'll try to find it later.

[Anonymous No.2754857]

>>2754769
>flat shit like that is easy to toss on a normal scanner, like a photo scanner. Can make for an easy and accurately scaled reference to design from
That actually never occurred to me. Nice one, thanks!

[Anonymous No.2754860]

>>2754834
compounding failure, part of the building is using the water pipe as a ground source, and a device plugged in is shorted to ground internally, causing the water pipe to be live.

[Anonymous No.2754869]

>>2754834
>>2754838
>>2754860
Now I am wondering
If he shorts the water line to neutral (not ground), will that trip the breaker at the house that’s causing it

[Anonymous No.2754873]

>>2754834
>Reason for concern?

not necessarily.
digital multimeters are famous for picking up phantom voltages caused by capacitive coupling.
these voltages essentially flow thru the air so are unable to carry any effective current.
to test if that's the case, add a 1M resistor across the DMM, and likely the voltage will disappear.
if you have an analog meter, use that instead coz it's not affected by ghost voltages.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2754876]

>>2754784
>as indicated by his use of a tripcode and name on an anonymous gjoa haven inuktitut learning forum
I wouldn’t take any advice from here as gospel.

Also you’re retarded. Anon is trying to build up a tool set for everything. Any “mechanic’s tool set” is going to come with good enough bits and a driver handle that works just fine.

And he’ll probably want a regular screwdriver set beyond that because there are very real limitations to what you can do with a driver handle and insert bits.

Sooooo you want him to spend $50+ on a meme ratcheting handle screwdriver as his first tool purchase that will never fit in a recessed hole? Instead of spending some of that money on a decent standard screwdriver set that will actually fit places you need them to go, and having plenty of money left over for some torx keys when he needs to remove a recessed t-10 screw on some electronic he wants to fix.

>>2754731
Anon, pls, if you come to a place asking “what beginner tools should I buy?” and somebody tells you to buy a $100 Linus Tech Tips rebadged fat fucking handle ratcheting screwdriver, you should probably disregard that person’s replies.

[Anonymous No.2754888]

>>2754758
>>2754851
found it, I was exaggerated a bit, he's grinding a 16inch mirror.
Here you go, everything you need to know to make your own mirror telescope
https://youtube.com/watch?v=snz7JJlSZvw&

[Anonymous No.2754894]

>>2754888
checked

I misread this as "Telescope Building with Don Johnson"
and was disappointed it's not actually Sonny Crockett.

[Anonymous No.2754919]

>>2754023
>Why? Is the difference in efficiency between air and whatever is in the fridge so big?
it's not even really that exactly. The problem is that almost all compression cycles rely on switching between liquid and vapor phases, and you aren't getting air liquified at anything above -150C. R-134a is a liquid at room temperature.

[Anonymous No.2754927]

>>2754731
You need to build a general basic tool set, then buy specific tools based on your actual project.
/diy/ doesnt exist as a single entity, every single type of /diy/ is different which requires wildly different tools. There is no one size fits all kit.

As far as general tools and kits go, those 200+ kits are essentially just wrench and socket sets, with dumb filler like allen keys and screwdriver bits.
Buying wrenches and sockets individually is EXPENSIVE
The gimmick with those tool sets is to omit less common sizes, so you have gaps. Itll cost more than the whole set to fill in the gaps when you pay $10 for a wrench.

My opinion?
Buy a large tool set which has sockets with no gaps. Sockets is where the value in those kits really is.
Then buy full wrench sets
Buy a screwdriver set
Buy a few different pair of pliers
Maybe a hammer

WaLa!
Thats your basic tool set.

Start a project, and youll quickly figure out what other specific tools you need and go from there.

[Anonymous No.2754944]

>>2754731
Actually whats your budget and what exact projects do you want to do?
I posted >>2754927 and said to buy a large set to get all your sockets.
I didnt realize the prices have more than doubled for these kits, they were a good price at $90, not so much over $200

Maybe we can help figure out what small socket set would suffice for your needs as you build a tool set.
A shallow 1/4 or shallow 3/8 set would probably do you fine in the interim

[Anonymous No.2754945]

>>2754737
>single use plastics in our landfills from LED bulbs
WTF you throw away your bulbs every time you turn out the lights?

[Anonymous No.2754958]

>>2754737
Plastic isnt even the problem. Its solder and really minute amount of expensive gallium-arsenade compounds.

[Anonymous No.2754967]

Thinking of buying a foreclosure property to renovate for myself.
What should I know before I do it other than making sure the acquiring the property is as seamless as possible?

[Anonymous No.2754968]

>>2754967
hire someone to check the foundation, if it's fucked there's basically nothing you can do about it.

[Anonymous No.2755008]

>>2754968
This is false lmaoooo
I'm not saying foundation repair is easy but it's doable especially where it's a crawl space or just a brick foundation that's moved a bit

[Anonymous No.2755011]

>>2754622
Just drive into Nevada
Ggez
Also, if you have any friends that live out of state, they could ship you one

[Anonymous No.2755013]

>>2754967
You really just need a clear title

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2755018]

>>2754944
Anon should just wait for the sales. There are Husky-Kobalt-Craftsman socket sets on sale like 60% of the year. They were just on sale from late Oct to Feb 1 for the holidays, so now if OP wants to avoid paying $200 for a set that was just $99 a few days ago, he might want to watch the Home Depot 24 hour sales or snag it on the memorial day - father’s day sales.

[Anonymous No.2755019]

>>2754414
i did that but i guess i didn't hold my breath good enough because it hurts to breathe

[Anonymous No.2755020]

>>2755019
drink some milk, pop a tylenol, and lay down for a bit. or if you have insurance you could go to a clinic and they might put you on some oxygen for a bit.

[Anonymous No.2755025]

>>2754631
I've been declined by 3 sellers so far, but I keep trying.

>>2754632
Might try that next. Thanks.

>>2755011
>$200+ trip for $1 bulb

Unironically would not mind the road trip, would be quite the story

[Anonymous No.2755038]

Pic related is a helmet lock that screws onto a motorbike, I want to make it a little more anti-theft proof because it would be insanely easy for some passing tradesman with a hex key handy to unscrew it, any advice on a (cheap) solution that could prevent that? Obviously I want it to be removable in the future so stuff like threadlocker is no good.
I've already looked into security fasteners but I can't find any that size where I wouldn't have to order minimum 100 online. I'm wondering if I could fill up the head cap with some kind of glue that would require a special solvent to remove?
Any ideas are appreciated

[Anonymous No.2755066]

Replaced batteries in my CyberPower VALUE1500ELCD like 5 months ago
had a power outaged for a bit and this happened.
It should have a 1yr warranty, would this be covered?

[Anonymous No.2755073]

>>2755038
>any advice on a (cheap) solution that could prevent that
Muriatic acid

[Anonymous No.2755085]

>>2755073
Are you implying I throw it at anyone who tries to steal my helmet?

[Anonymous No.2755091]

>>2755038
And it'd be insanely easy for a passing thief with a pair of bolt cutters to steal your helmet.

I really wouldn't worry about it. All of these devices just prevent the most basic crimes of opportunity, there aren't that many people walking around with hex keys to begin with. Just get a bit of body filler and put it in the hex hole if you're that worried, but nothing is really stopping someone with a pair of pliers unbolting them.

[Anonymous No.2755115]

>>2755091
I agree it's there to deter that very basic level of opportunity crime, I'd just like to remove unscrewing it as an option since I'll probably use this mostly in parking lots and some guy with tools in his car might quickly fetch them. I think most people wouldn't be game to crack out some bolt cutters since it's so much more obvious you're thieving then, although I suppose crouching over someone's bike and slowly unscrewing a lock is also too suspicious to stop most people.
At the very least I'm going to buy black screws so they don't stand out as much, I feel like right now it looks so obvious you can just unscrew it.

[Anonymous No.2755123]

I have an old safe (Suresafe 30ES, but I can only find like 3 things about it online, none of which are helpful) that I haven't used in ages but now need access to it. QRD:
>batteries dead
>moved multiple times so don't know where key is
So far I've tried:
>tapping/hitting top while turning lock
>heating dead batteries to get any leftover juice
None have worked. Is there a way to open this without breaking it? Picrel is the same model

[Anonymous No.2755125]

>>2755123
You could get a locksmith out to pick it for you, that's about it.

[Anonymous No.2755128]

Upstairs shower leaked and rotted the floorboard, will it continue to rot and cause structural damage if not repaired ASAP? There is a joist about 7 inches to the right of the hole

[Anonymous No.2755130]

>>2755125
Yeah, unfortunately that might be the only option. I figure I might try and teach myself lockpicking since it'd cost about the same.

[Anonymous No.2755137]

>>2755130
>>2755123
Just lockpick it yourself.
If its a tubular lock, just buy a tubular lockpick on amazon.

If its a standard wafer lock, and uses a regular flat key, make your own lockpicks tonight and do it.
You can learn to lockpick a cheap wafer lock in under an hour.

Make some lockpicks out of old Hacksaw blades youve got laying around.
You can have this shit open in an hour or two if you get working on it.

[Anonymous No.2755159]

>>2755137
That safe looks cheap. I bet it’s a cheap lock, I doubt it’s a wafer lock. It might be a tubular lock to appear extra secure but if it is I bet it’s a shitty cheaply made one. Even on pricey safes the cores are usually kind of a joke

Seconding the idea of picking the lock. Watch a 20 minute youtube on how it works, it’s really not that hard. Maybe you’ll get lucky and the core is so shit that it can just be raked. Probably not but maybe. That worked when I got locked out of my houses generator

[Anonymous No.2755177]

>>2755038
Titebond original, dissolves in water but if you fill the hex head it takes quite a bit of time and water. Then finish it with caulk sealant to prevent water dissolving it while riding

But if you make it very hard to reach I don’t think anyone would bother. Mine used standard bolts and is mounted right up to the exhaust downpipe so it can only be removed when the engine is cold with a flat ratcheting spanner from below.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2755189]

>>2755038
You could look for a couple security hex or torx bolts the same size possibly, at least that adds another layer that somebody probably doesn’t have in their bicycle repair kit.

I’m with this guy though >>2755091

Somebody could go home and get hex keys, or they could pick the lock, or grind it off, but it would be a lot easier for them to go to the next bike with an unsecured helmet and steal that one.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2755191]

>>2755189
>>2755038
And if you did the pan style security screw, it’s more difficult to remove the things with a pair of pliers or small channellocks

[Anonymous No.2755228]

>>2755128
>will it continue to rot and cause structural damage if not repaired ASAP?

Only if the leak is allowed to continue.
If you fixed the leak, the rotting will stop when it dries out.

[Anonymous No.2755241]

>>2755066
>CyberPower
There's your problem.

[Anonymous No.2755255]

>>2755038
>Any ideas are appreciated

if you loop the cable thru some part of the chassis, even if you remove the lock, helmet and lock are still attached to the bike.

[Anonymous No.2755256]

Would I be making some big fuck up connecting two of these to my toilet?

[Anonymous No.2755258]

>>2755256
>two of these to my toilet

one for bidet
What's the second for?

[Anonymous No.2755260]

>>2755258
Another bidet. My partner insists on having some hose one but I miss my seat one so I thought we can install both

[Anonymous No.2755269]

>>2755260
kinda janky but shouldn't be a problem

[Anonymous No.2755286]

>>2755038
I would weld thick chain to the bike and then use a lock that's difficult to cut.
>https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=anti+angle+grinder+lock

If you aren't defending against an angle grinder, then whatever you do isn't going to work.

[Anonymous No.2755374]

whats a quick way to make kindling from firewood? using a saw on firewood is not worth it right?
is there a way i can just scrape or chop with a billhook to obtain thin sticks or shavings from it

[Anonymous No.2755387]

>>2755374
draw it along the grain with a blade, in a manner similar to using a drawknife. if you get thin curls, great, if you get long sticks, make feathersticks. alternatively, use newspaper like a normal person.

[Anonymous No.2755388]

I need to quiet my computer so it's not getting picked up on my microphone. My plan is to build a backless plywood box and glue these to the inside. When I need my pc quiet I'll just put the box over it and remove it when I'm gaming so it doesn't get too hot. Does this make sense or is there a better way to do it?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2755389]

>>2754731
Check out your local Lowe’s. Lots of those mechanic’s sets are on clearance after the holidays. Craftsman or Kobalt will both be good enough and a ~$120-$150 set on clearance with 1/4”, 3/8”, and 1/2” drive will have all of the sockets and driver bits you will need for 95% of projects where you want to use sockets.

[Anonymous No.2755394]

>>2755388
the largest part of dampening sound is mass, of which those little foam "acoustic squares" have very little. They're okay for deadening echoes, but for direct sound incursion like yours, they won't do anything. get a heavy moving blanket, fold it up, and lay it over the top and side nearest your mic, or if you want to get fancy, you can build your box but line it with 2" rockwool, as is frequently done by fledgling sound designers and voiceover artists.

[Anonymous No.2755396]

>>2755387
a newspaper is not enough to set blocks of wood on fire
you need something between paper and wood like thin wood + cardboard in some cases

[Anonymous No.2755403]

How can I go about wallmounting this frame?
I cant really drill any mounts into it since the frame itsself is bone and glass and not wood dont really want to damage it and the felt on the backing cant really be removed either

[Anonymous No.2755408]

>>2755403
you could try putting a horizontal wire on the wall and using that swivelydo at the top to hook onto it. or just build a small shelf

[Anonymous No.2755419]

I'm replacing old in-wall heaters with some decorative grates and need something to put behind the grate to keep from being able to see into the wall. I think regular fabric will get dusty eventually and a piece of painted metal will look too solid. Ideally, I want something that seems like a heavy, dense screen to give the impression a vent.
I thought about some roofing paper I have since it's heavy and matte. It's got lighter lines running the length of it, but I could paint it, I guess. Any other ideas?

[Anonymous No.2755426]

>>2755408
think I could also screw some mount hooks to the backing board or would it be to weak for the stress of that

[Anonymous No.2755428]

>>2755419
black 3.0 or cheaper carbon black paint, both are extremely dark, extremely matte.

[Anonymous No.2755440]

>>2755241
worked well for like 8 years.
Thanks for your input.

[Anonymous No.2755443]

>>2755241
CyberPower shits all over APC.

[Anonymous No.2755456]

>>2755066
>warranty
Maybe? I work at a Jaycar where we sell those exact batteries, if you kick up a stink about something debatable we'll eventually give you a refund regardless of whether you're in the right because it just isn't worth our time (and the negative review). Especially if the manager is a pushover. Please don't though. Same more or less applies at other vendors of those same batteries.

Those look like batteries that got overcharged, produced gas and/or overheated, and warped. It could also be they just got too hot for other reasons, be that too much charge or discharge current for too long a time period, or something in the UPS enclosure that got hot and roasted them. You may be able to perform an autopsy on one of the batteries to see if there's any sulfation, or any other electrochemical markers of battery health like fluid level, density, or pH. I wouldn't have a clue how to do that though.

What killed the previous batteries 5 months ago? If they died in a similar way, I'd suspect the UPS itself has a fault in its charging circuit that causes the batteries to not last as long as they should, rather than the old batteries just reaching the end of their lifespan. It may be worth trying to monitor the charge current going into the batteries over days or weeks, to see if it adapts a proper float charge stage. Personally I'd quite like to see more modular UPSs, where the charge circuitry can be swapped to handle higher currents, different chemistries (LFP), solar input, etc. They really should have a thermistor between the bats if nothing else.

[Anonymous No.2755463]

retard incoming. what the fuck do you call this type of pipe? all the threaded extensions I see are clearly made for sinks and shit, is this any different?

[Anonymous No.2755464]

>>2755403

[Anonymous No.2755466]

Not this anon >>2754731 but following up with his question about DIYing everything.

Should I brush up on some reading like picrel if I wanna be a DIY pro?
Or should I just find some local old guy to teach me what to do exactly?
> t. zoomer city slicker.

[Anonymous No.2755469]

>>2755463
You circled 3 things: a threaded cap, a tube, and a flange. All 3 look to be out of PVC. The cap is probably bonded to the tube with PVC "glue"

[Anonymous No.2755470]

>>2755464
yeah I already did a google search before posting those solutions work if the frame was made of wood. where mounting is simple but im working with glass and bone/horn no wood at all

[Anonymous No.2755471]

>>2755463
>what the fuck do you call this type of pipe?

PVC

The part circled in red is the drain stub-out.
For regular sinks, it's 1-1/2" NPT male thread.
For vanities, it is sometimes 1-1/4" NPT male thread.

[Anonymous No.2755472]

>>2755374
>whats a quick way to make kindling from firewood?
Get a froe (picrel). Of I you can't, use a hatchet.

Note - you don't swing the froe or hatchet at the wood. You place the wood upright, the tool on end of the wood and bang it with a mallet or another conveniently sized piece of wood.

[Anonymous No.2755473]

>>2755466
It depends what you want to do, there's a big spectrum. Books can be great hard references, but reading something like that isn't going to do you a lot of good without a goal in mind. Learn what you need to do what you need to do.

[Anonymous No.2755474]

>>2755443
Shitting all over the place is not a good sign.

[Anonymous No.2755475]

>>2755469
>threaded cap and tube
disregard the flange, and I have a black cap like what's in the picture. so something like picrel wouldn't be interchangeable? I'd just need to buy the correct size pipe and a threaded slip joint and bond them?

[Anonymous No.2755476]

>>2755474
At least its all over the floor instead of shitting voltage spikes directly through your PC like APC does.

[Anonymous No.2755477]

>>2755470

[Anonymous No.2755478]

>>2755470
>>2755477

[Anonymous No.2755480]

>>2755456
>Jaycar
That's where i got em.
The original batteries lasted something like 8 years and went through many power outages. They're slightly expanded but nothing like these new ones. (i think only one of the old pair is busted)
My log has 2 power outages(likely brown outs) in Dec last year then randomly the UPS reported these at being 89% capacity and started charging, then beeped for replacement. So either something in the batteries fucked up or my UPS doesn't know how to check their capacity reliably.
I've no real way to test the UPS besides to put new batteries in.
Kinda ass time to happen after losing my wagie cagie because i think the safest bet is to get a new UPS.
Jaycar shit is so fuking expensive btw, idk how you survive.... only ppl i know that go there regularly are 50+ or that dont wanna wait for chinese shit to arrive by boat.

[Anonymous No.2755488]

>>2755477
>>2755478
thats not a bad idea

[Anonymous No.2755508]

>>2755480
>i think only one of the old pair is busted
I would expect as much for old batteries. You can likely keep the remaining good one in parallel, though I expect its capacity will be lower than new ones. It is odd that both of the new ones died contemperaneously. Jaycar did have some discontinued UPSs (the ones in the multiboard form-factor) see if any stores near you have them and if you can get them for cheaper. The discounts on discontinued items can be pretty great.
>idk how you survive
We mainly have three kinds of customers:
>boomers with disposable income who like supporting a "local" brand
>zoomers who don't know any better
>working adults who need something right fucking now, particularly tradies
Just opened a few new stores in the last 6 months. Then again, we're having sales of items below cost, and our new CEO used to be the CEO of Dick Smith, so who knows what's going to happen. The moment a single store closes that's a bad sign.

I know enough about electronics to guide hobbyists and tradies when they don't know what diode or resistor or transistor or whatever they need, but a lot of the stores just don't have any expertise at all. No clue how they sell solar. Maybe they just make their money from $50 HDMI cables and phone chargers. And 12V fridges.

[Anonymous No.2755547]

Hi, I have this kind of shitty kegerator that's meant for these 5L kegs. The unit uses a peltier cooler module to cool down the keg to the desired temperature. The cooler is attached to a metal plate via a heat pipe or something similar to a metal plate on which the keg sits on. The design leaves much to be desired, especially since the unit has a tendency to kill peltier coolers.
I was thinking of gutting the unit, getting a new higher quality smps, installing a new cooler module to replace the broken one and also mounting a few coolers directly to the plate. I would use a microcontroller with a thermal couple that would control relays which turn the peltier modules on or off depending on if the desired temperature is reached. The only part of the project that I am stuck with is how would I cool down the modules connected directly to the bottom of the plate? The only idea that I have so far is using a cheap closed loop radiator CPU cooler to provide cooling to the hot side. I have provided a picture of the unit and the plate on which the keg sits on.

[Anonymous No.2755551]

>>2755547
instead of going through the whole process with a bare microcontroller and relays just for shitty bang-bang temperature control, pick up a $12 PID controller from amazon. It'll take mains in and power your peltier. as for keeping the peltier alive, the hot side NEEDS an adequate heatsink, and most likely a fan. The heatsink needs to have fins to increase the surface area, and I would highly suggest putting some thermal paste on the interface between the peltier and the heatsink. If you don't have the vertical space to fit a good heatsink down there, you could try soldering together a basic waterblock with a copper plate and tubing, bent in a snake-like pattern to bring as much of the tubing in contact with the plate, and running that to a reservoir, radiator, and pump. no need for fancy PID control on the cooling loop, just on-off with the machine.

[Anonymous No.2755553]

>>2755475
The pipe part coming out of the wall is just a straight piece of pipe.
And it's got picrel bonded to it with PVC glue.

[Anonymous No.2755572]

>>2755388
>a better way to do it?

best way to quiet a loud sound is to put distance between it and you.
two ways to do that are
- fanless mini PC or thin-client running Anydesk, or similar remote software.
- KVM (if possible with audio pass-thru) using a long USB cable, or ethernet cable, or using IP.

the first option will require extra monitor/mouse/keyboard, whereas the second option lets you use your current gadgets.

[Anonymous No.2755608]

>>2755260
>my partner
>2bidets
gay

[Anonymous No.2755610]

>>2755476
Not the other guy but fwiw my cyber power ups has been fine for 3 years. I live in a rural area with shit infrastructure for power too so it gets ample use, shuts down my nas every time. It even handles the weird situation of being a ups inside my home that has a whole house generator (shit infrastructure means we lose power like once every six weeks or so); I’ve read some ups’ apparently really dislike being connected to generator power but these have never had an issue

[Anonymous No.2755612]

I have circular vents in my ceiling for heating/central air. Is there an easy way to convert them to rectangular? Hate the look of circular vents

[Anonymous No.2755615]

>>2755612
just put a rectangular face plate over it and pretend

[Anonymous No.2755654]

These black spots pop up once a year in my kitchen, my house is damp as hell.
Is this black mould?
Should I be worried?
What can I do?

[Anonymous No.2755660]

>>2755654
Yes, it's black mould. Clean it off and improve your fucking airflow, cunt. Closing every window isn't good for moisture buildup.

[Anonymous No.2755679]

>>2755654
What's the remedy for this? I live in the countryside and if I close the windows my house gets filled with bugs.

I'll get bugnets installed and open the windows once a week

[Anonymous No.2755716]

>>2755654
not all black colored mold is the "black mold"
but you should clean it still

[Anonymous No.2755770]

What's the best 5V latching switch? I've got one of those garbage little side to side things and I hate it, I want something else, ideally a push switch, as small as possible.

[Anonymous No.2755778]

>>2755770
https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Push-Switches_SHOU-HAN-5-8-ZSPT_C2681588.html here's the cheapest one on LCSC.

[Anonymous No.2756112]

>>2755679
Bugnets are the cheap solution. A proper ventilation system with filtration is recommended, bonus points for heat/energy recovery ventilation.

[Anonymous No.2756126]

Sup /diy/, I've recently come into an interesting prospect. My Grandpa's girlfriend makes these really fucking sick handmade shell, stone and flower knickknacks of all kinds- home decor, bracelets, necklaces, earrings and brooches mostly. In the past, she sold it at events, but she's become too old to go and sell them anymore, and she has a room full of hundreds of these items, and no way to get them to people. Apparently, they've sold really well in the past and I believe it- they're high quality goods. She wants to keep selling them, but is only reliant on word-of-mouth, signs on her lawn, and local newspaper ads, and, well they only really reach the people who already bought them. I asked her why she doesn't expand her reach online, to something like Etsy or eBay, and she replied with "Online? Is that a computer thing? I don't have a computer."

Bottom line is, I want to help her sell these things. Obviously, there's financial incentive for me, but I'm not trying to take control- this is her business, and she should be the one with full authority over all of it. I tried looking on Etsy and it really seems like the account holder should be the one who actually owns the store. If I wanted to help her do this, is there a way for me to run the online store in her name? How would I go about that? Are there better options than Etsy?

[Anonymous No.2756142]

>>2756126
>is there a way for me to run the online store in her name?
just do this. You can operate it on her behalf with absolutely 0 questions asked. You should explain things to her obviously, still - say you want to take pictures to show people online. If she genuinely doesn't know what the internet is in 2024, just dumb it down for her: it's kind of like a catalogue. "You see people looking down at their phones all the time, right? Or you hear about those computers? Well, they're basically just fancy ways to read and watch stuff, basically. And people can buy stuff on there. I just have to take pictures and make an ad for them - which is free to do - and people can start buying them. I know it sounds like a scam, it's not. No, I promise I know how to do it, I've done it before. It's as easy as putting it on a bulletin board. Ask your friends at church, I'm sure their kids do stuff like this."
stuff like that.

[Anonymous No.2756172]

>getting ready to build a house in the hot, humid 3rd world country i moved to
>local building style is literally just concrete structure plus a layer of paint, and painting over the mold and moisture damage every 6 months
whats an actually good way to construct a house for this climate? i moved from the midwest where humidity isnt a thing, so all I know is stick frames and drywall

[Anonymous No.2756196]

>>2755615
But then I’d have huge rectangles. I want normal sized ones ideally of the same width

[Anonymous No.2756207]

>>2756172
stick frames and drywall, but with a proper ventilation system. both ventilation for indoors, and also a path for fresh air to diffuse up through the walls. while keeping vermin out.
t. moron

[Anonymous No.2756213]

>>2756172
Can you tell which country? There are a lot of climate variables here.

Most of the humid second world is built with m6 blocks (not sure what the normal term is) or hollow red clay blocks, with rebar stuck in them and filled with concrete. In some countries/areas they skip the concrete filling but instead use a skeleton built of precast reinforced concrete beams and the blocks are put inside the beams.

In east Asia and parts of South America windows are often skipped altogether (they just leave holes) and they use big roof overhang to keep the rain out, 24/7 ventilation by not having windows and if it does get cold they have one bedroom they can heat.

The building process with the concrete poles is extremely easy. The Bolivian government iirc would just send out trucks loaded with beams, blocks, mortar and corrugated sheet to poor remote villages and the villagers could build their houses themselves with no builder training

[Anonymous No.2756311]

>>2756172
Sardines?

[Anonymous No.2756321]

I want to make an obscure weeb weapon called a yagyuzue.

Is there any off-the-shelf metal barstock made of three equidistant flanges? I was looking at some y-shaped fence posts, but the flanges aren't equal lengths and a little too long.

[Anonymous No.2756342]

>>2756321
IMO your best bet is to get some 1.5mm thick x 10mm wide flat bar, put it in a brake, and bend it down the middle to a 60 degree angle. make 6 of these, place back to back to back, jb weld in place. something like this (only 3 are highlighted, others are visible between them

[Anonymous No.2756344]

>>2756342
rereading, i don't know why i thought 6 flanges. just double the bend angle to 120 degrees, which should make it even easier, and only make 3.

[Anonymous No.2756355]

I'm adding some leftover LED strips to a bookshelf. There's a little lip on the left/right of the shelves that I can hide the wires behind. Is there some way I can just run one set of wires and have each strip feed off of it instead of running 5 sets of wires? Like some handy connector to just crimp on instead of needing to solder I mean.

[Anonymous No.2756393]

>>2756355
Depends entirely on the strips. Generally they're designed to be parallel, so you can just run 2 leads zig zagging between them up alternating left and right sides. If you want to run each strip in "parallel" instead you just need to run 2 rails up one side then join them to each strip in order with a short wire segment or something. Either way, you're going to need to solder/use a connector 10 times.

[Anonymous No.2756396]

>>2755654
>my house is damp as hell.
Regardless of what the spots are, you should fix this.

[Anonymous No.2756515]

How do I fix this little fucker? I press it and liquid doesn't come out.

[Anonymous No.2756533]

>>2755610
CYberPower has much better linux support, and APC quality has gone to shit since Schneider bought them.

When I replaced my 12 year old APC, I ignored all the people claiming nu-APC is bad now, I bought a 1500w pure sine wave.
From day 1, if you turn it off and leave it off for a day or so, it will not turn back on without a battery pull.
I had it running for about a year, first battery surge fried the Mosfets, it killed my Platinum Seasonic PSU and torched my ram.
I got a new UPS under warranty, it does the SAME horse shit where you cant turn it off or it needs a battery pull.

I had a cheap cyberpower for years that I replaced around the same time as the APC, a like 750va that runs my plex and torrent servers have been way better in every way.

Im going to replace my main rig UPS with an Eaton and be done with it.

[Anonymous No.2756535]

>>2756515
You refill the bottle with liquid

[Anonymous No.2756541]

I am looking for a bracket like this that has a few loops for a strap to go through, not sure what it's called though.

[Anonymous No.2756546]

>>2756541
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/brackets/flat-surface-brackets/

[Anonymous No.2756562]

This thread has passed the bump limit.

A new thread has been posted here: >>2756561

It's time to transition to the new thread.

[Anonymous No.2756654]

>>2756515
you pull the clear plastic cap off it

[Anonymous No.2756669]

>>2756535
>>2756654
Oh, le jokes thread. I get it. I'll ask ChatGPT instead.

[Anonymous No.2756816]

I need to tie down a windmill. The outer support ring that holds the blades in place has a break in it, from where it was previously tied down. This attached image shows a chain being tied from one side of the inner support ring to the other. Would that be strong enough to keep the windmill in place, even in high winds? Or would the inner support break as well?

Let me know if I should approach this differently. There is a brake on the windmill but that is broken too.

[Anonymous No.2757237]

Anyone know how to rig pic-rel to output only a fixed voltage instead of the highest the power supply can put out up to the limit I set?

Example, if I configure it to 20 volts, and the psu only puts out up to 15 volts, picrel puts out 15 volts.

Is it possible to make it so it's 20 volts or nothing? ....can I add some circuitry that will step it up to 20 volts so idc so much about input voltage?


>>2751816
>how do they get teflon to stick to the pan
I dunno how true this is but iirc the teflon itself is so non stick that they need to use some special toxic chemical to make it stick to the pan. That's why it's suggested to get a new pan once you start noticing shit sticking or see any chips or scratches. It's because the teflon is wearing off and that chemical either is, or soon will be exposed, contaminating the food.

>What's the best place to buy bulk orders of teflon budgies?
I shop at https://www.webstaurantstore.com/
Shipping is crazy expensive so make sure your order size justifies the shipping. I don't think I ever had an order cost less than $40 for shipping. That being said, I dunno what budgies are but I see 10" teflon pans starting at $9.45 each.


>>2754622
jesus what isn't illegal in californistan?
anyway that'd be cool to try to turn it in to a project. I'd like to take my pic-rel (supposed to be able to put out up to 100 watts DC from USB C) and hook up a 25 watt heater element with an LED. Then you'd (probably) have the world's first and only USB C lava lamp.

[Anonymous No.2757239]

>>2757237
.....pic rel
it's a usb c power trigger module

[Anonymous No.2757281]

>>2757237
>Is it possible to make it so it's 20 volts or nothing?

is it possible you dont have a drawer full of laptop power bricks from the thrift store?

[Anonymous No.2757294]

>>2757281
Irrelevant.
I want to convert my laptop to charge using USB C because it stopped taking a charge from the regular power brick and I want a project to do

[Anonymous No.2757364]

>>2757294
So you want to go from what is an existing perfectly working system of 2 pins, to the absolute clusterfuck that is USB-C power negotiation?

I've really got to wonder what the mentality is of zoomers who do shit like this. Get your fucking multimeter out, check the pins. If the port is fucked, buy a replacement. If the cable is fucked, solder on a new head. If they're both fucked, maybe you mount a standard barrel jack in there instead. Fucking USB-C in a cramped laptop case, are you a fucking retard?