/SQTDDTOT/ Stupid Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread.

[Anonymous No.2739042]

Old thread is past the bump limit. >>2731513
Post your new or unanswered old questions here.

How much wood would a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?
(just a filler, don't need an answer)

[Anonymous No.2739045]

The old thread is still bumping at 326 replies.
What IS the bump limit??

[Anonymous No.2739049]

>>2739045
>old thread is still bumping

if it was bumping, it wouldnt be on page 8, but on page 1, like this thread.

[Anonymous No.2739050]

I want some small sheet of malleable metal I can hammer in to a broad hook shape and drill a hole for a screw. Probably something like 50x25mm. What kind of material? Brass, I'm guessing? Where would I get such a thing?

[Anonymous No.2739058]

>>2739050
>Where would I get such a thing?
Hobby Shop
Hardware store
Amazon
Ebay

[Anonymous No.2739060]

>>2739049
It has moved down to the second row but when I asked, it was the first thread in the first row in the catalog. I thought it was still bumping to get there.
I clicked on it and it was in fact on page 8. I guess I misunderstand how the Catalog works.

[Anonymous No.2739124]

>>2739042
will it be easier to cut out the damaged cardboard and repair it or should i replace the whole jamb (any tips on what the style is called?)

[Anonymous No.2739139]

>>2739124
Just sand it, and smear some wet mud on it, like this.

[[e-mail] No.2739157]

Getting into custom lights, EDC and work flood. Where do y'all get your electronics and other stuff, like mini dc converters, heat sinks, fans, buttons, etc?

[Anonymous No.2739164]

>>2739124
>will it be easier to cut out the damaged cardboard and repair it or should i replace the whole jamb (any tips on what the style is called?)

It appears to be just a standard interior door jamb. (three screw hinge)
The cardboard appears to be OSB chip board.

It depends on your skill level. For me, it's easy to replace the entire side jamb and fit the hinges.
Other people have problems with hinges due to the accuracy required for everything to fit back together and operate properly.
To cut the damage out and replace just that still takes a bit of 'fiddling' to get it to look decent. That'd be your call.

For a long-term repair, you need to do something about the source of the problem.
Then replace the side jamb in its entirety. This will involve fitting hinges.
For a short-term repair, just remove as much of the loose, damaged material that comes off easily as you can.
Use water putty as a filler to get it back to the original level. Sand and paint after it dries.
Try to get the water putty to the correct level when applying - if it's mixed properly, it's a bitch to sand.
The damaged portion is below the lower hinge so it isn't actually providing any support, it's just part of the sealing/cosmetic aspect.
Cutting out and replacing the damaged part would probably last longer, but the difficulty level is much higher.
I'd be more concerned about the necessity of the two screws above the hinge. That's not part of a typical installation procedure.

[Anonymous No.2739208]

This sideboard has gone up for sale in my area and it has a feature I have never seen on one before...

[Anonymous No.2739210]

>>2739208
The main cabinet doors have little fold down doors in them. They have a polished metal surface on them.

[Anonymous No.2739211]

>>2739210
What is this feature called? What is it used for?

[Anonymous No.2739212]

>>2739211
They are different too.

Sorry for this photo. I didn't take them. They are from the listing.

[Anonymous No.2739217]

>>2739211
>What is it used for?

left is for serving hooch.
right is for serving hors-d'oeuvres.

[Anonymous No.2739233]

>>2739042
What wood is good?

[Anonymous No.2739237]

>>2739210
Great-grandfather's cocaine cabinet

[Anonymous No.2739311]

Hello anons, I have two 1500L reservoirs that collect rain water and was wondering if it would be a good idea to use them to charge a power bank using a chink water turbine. I'm wondering between a 5v and a 12v turbine, the 12v will use a buck converter to step down the voltage to 5v, the reason I'm considering 12v is to have more stable output voltage.

[Anonymous No.2739330]

>>2739311
Show us the numbers you got when you calculated the energy you can harvest from the water flowing from level 1 to level 2.

[Anonymous No.2739341]

>>2739060
Whatever you're using to browse is set to sort by last reply time instead of bump order (that also respects sage posts).

[Anonymous No.2739345]

>>2739124
It's best to replace the whole jamb unless that's a concrete wall. A jamb is only nailed/screwed and shimmed in a few spots so cutting in randomly will leave part of what's left hanging unfastened. Alternatively you could remove the trim and place new shims where you intend to cut but then again it will be hard to mend the two pieces without the filler and paint eventually cracking at the seam.

[Anonymous No.2739361]

>>2739330
I have not calculated the energy, because I don't really know how. I'm more interested in the outgoing water energy more than the one from the transition between lvl1 and 2, because I can control when I'm receiving the energy.

The height is 1.7m (perhaps 1.6 if you consider the little gap at the bottom of the barrel), the whole mass is 3000kg, I don't know that the discharge rate is, but the system uses 3/4 (19 mm) hose

[Anonymous No.2739367]

First time homeowner, buying equipment as I go along.
House is a century home, slate roof, gambrel style (very steep initial incline with a reduced grade at the peak of the house).

The gutters are very low compared to where the highest eaves sit, and I was told that only a professional slate roofer should really be up on the top (since it's steep, since it's slate).

Should I buy a ladder that is as tall as the highest eave, or as tall as the gutter (and rent a really tall ladder as projects demand)?

[Anonymous No.2739371]

>>2739361
The potential energy can give ypu a rough idea of how much power you can get out of it

[Anonymous No.2739384]

Found this tool in my garage. Does anyone know what's it for? The rod inside looks like some sort of file, but I'm not sure

[Anonymous No.2739396]

>>2739384
Chainsaw sharpener

[Anonymous No.2739416]

>>2739371
gpt gives me ~40k Joules

[Anonymous No.2739423]

>>2739416
>>2739311
gpt is surprisingly useful

[Anonymous No.2739454]

>>2739396
>>2739384
Can confirm. I used to be a sawyer in my youth. It is a very cheap and shitty file and jig used for sharpening the teeth on a chainsaw chain.

[Anonymous No.2739639]

I accidentally cut the cord on a 5V DC power adapter. I then stripped the wires where it was cut, and they look identical. Do the wires have to be matched up, and if so is there any way to match them now that they're stripped?

[Anonymous No.2739674]

>>2739639
One of the wires had a white stripe on it or a rib

[Anonymous No.2739741]

how would you reinforce a sewer pipe going to a septic tank/leech field so you can drive over it? just put a slab over it? encase in concrete? steel plate?

[Anonymous No.2739797]

I've got an old combi boiler that loses pressure over the year, this year it lost pressure a little faster, maybe a month sooner. Doesn't really bother me, I just fill it back up once or twice a year.

Anyway, I filled it back up, ran it for an hour, it's at max temp, but it keeps cutting on and off, I guess it's maintaining the temperature, but don't these usually have hysteresis, where it'll wait for the temp to drop a few degrees before it clicks back on?

I don't run it that long usually, and maybe I'm just paying more attention to it than I usually would.

[Anonymous No.2739832]

>>2739639
>any way to match them now that they're stripped?

every red-blooded man or boy should own, at minimum, one harbor freight multimeter for potentially deadly situations like this.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2739842]

>>2739674
The one with the white stripe is going to be 5V+ and the one without a stripe is GND. So match the white stripe to the white stripe. Also this >>2739832

[Anonymous No.2739845]

>>2739842
>The one with the white stripe

Thanks for the reply, anon. Now, if you would kindly tell me where to look for this white stripe.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2739847]

>>2739845
If there’s no white stripe or dash on the wire, then >>2739832

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2739850]

>>2739845
>>2739847
Also when you get the multimeter and find out which one is 5V+ and GND, you want to make sure the 5V+ goes to the inner pin on the plug, and the GND goes to the outer metal barrel.

So with a multimeter, plug the thing into the wall and set the meter in DC Volts, touch the two wires, you will wither get 5.0V or -5.0V. When it’s reading 5.0V, the wire the red probe is touching will be 5V+, and the black probe is on GND, so mark those. If it reads -5V, then the black is on 5V+ and red is on GND.

Then on the broken wire going to the plug, you want to find out how to read continuity with the meter, or set it in ohms. Touch one probe to the outer barrel of the plug and then the other probe touches the broken wire. When it beeps for continuity or it reads 0 ohms, that’s the wire for GND and mark that. Do the same with the inner pin, the other wire should give you continuity with that inner pin and that’s where the 5V+ gets connected.

[Anonymous No.2739889]

>>2739674
>>2739832
>>2739842
>>2739847
>>2739850
Thanks bros, will do that. Own a multimeter but don't know much about electronics.

[Anonymous No.2739894]

>>2739889
>>2739850
Unless it's center ground. The thing you plug it into should tell you.

Also, the wire is ribbed unless it doesn't matter

[Anonymous No.2740175]

>>2739367
Psycho Mantis?

Do you have any business on the roof?
E.g., a chimney that needs repair, or dormers that will need painting every few years, etc.

I do agree it's wise to be able to reach the gutters at least, but unless you foresee a project necessitating a higher climb, it wouldn't meet my criteria for "buy a taller ladder just in case."

There's something to be said for having the right tool when you need it, but if you're probably never going to need it, why buy it?

[Anonymous No.2740414]

How would I mount this face mask to the wall with the least work possible. Id prefer not to puncture the black fabric, but I can if theres no other option.
I don't want to glue it directly to the fabric because I need to be able to freely remove the mask

[Anonymous No.2740418]

>>2740414
I'd glue a bit of velcro or a magnet to the inside forehead, then hang a bit of thread from the top of the frame with the opposite attached. Easy enough to leave hanging, easy enough to remove.

[Anonymous No.2740459]

>>2740418
I hope you have something good happen today anon

[Anonymous No.2740540]

Toilet has been running water into the bowl and making a hissing sound for weeks. It stops when I turn off the water supply. sometimes water runs I to the over flow tube but usually just when the water supply is turned too high. It still flows into the bowl when the water is not going into the over flow tube. I've replaced the flapper and it changed nothing
Is it a bad fill valve? Is this something I can just fix with caulk?

[Anonymous No.2740544]

>>2740540
It's almost certainly the fill valve. If it was fitted properly with a cut-off it's a 10 minute job, if it wasn't it's a 15 minute job. Some valves have replaceable parts, but you are almost always just better off swapping it out for an equivalent part, far less work.

[Anonymous No.2740570]

>>2740544
Thanks, I'll probably procrastinate it another week but hopefully that fixes it

[Anonymous No.2740676]

What the hell is this
I found it at a thrift store and was so curious as to what it was that I bought it, but I still have no idea

[Anonymous No.2740689]

>>2740676
I figure a home made toy. but what it's a toy of is a mystery.

[Anonymous No.2740694]

>>2740676
I clicked the image before reading your post, and my first thought was "what the hell am I looking at?"

I agree it looks like some sort of toy. Stretching the imagination, maybe some sort of boat? Does any part articulate or detach? Can you stand it upright?

[Anonymous No.2740704]

My mother is worried that her slab-foundation house has poor drainage. Does pic related (from the International Residential Code) mean that drainage actually matters only for houses with foundation walls, and does not matter for slab foundations?

[Anonymous No.2740705]

My water company apparently hasn't actually come and read my meter since November of last year, and hit me with a huge bill for the change in the meter from then til now. We've had multiple leaks and needed to repipe the whole house (it was old galvanized pipes) and the wastewater bill itself is over four figures. Do I have any recourse to this other than sending the water company letters explaining the repairs and how the backyard flooded from leaks to try to get this shit adjusted?

[Anonymous No.2740711]

>>2740694
>Does any part articulate
The square-shaped piece wrapped in wire on the left rotates around the piece of wood attached with the smaller wire
The very thin pieces of wood on the sides on the right rotate around the nails they are attached with. They are also different lengths

or detach?
No

Overall the object is 8.25" and all of the wood seems to be bamboo.

[Anonymous No.2740720]

>>2740711
It's a penis stretching device. Saw plenty of them in nam

[Anonymous No.2740769]

>>2739210
>>2739212
100% for cutting lines of coke on

[Anonymous No.2740787]

>>2739741
I drive over a drain pipe I installed last spring that buried 6" deep in a full sized ford transit. The ground hasn't moved. I think you'll be okay

[Anonymous No.2740790]

>>2740711
>>2740676
I am so confused by this. The entire assembly circled serves no purpose. I can't figure out why some pieces are attached by wire and other with nails. In fact how careful do you even need to be to drive nails through bamboo without it cracking? The little stilts are throwing me for a loop as well. The whole thing is nonsensical but I refuse to believe that it's just a toy. It has to serve a purpose.

[Anonymous No.2740799]

>>2740540
Can you make it stop by lifting the float?
If yes, you *probably need to adjust the float level.
If not, you need to replace the valve.

* sometimes the internals only stop the flow when more lift is applied than the displacement can provide

[Anonymous No.2740800]

>>2740705
>Do I have any recourse to this other than sending the water company letters explaining the repairs and how the backyard flooded from leaks to try to get this shit adjusted?
Yes, go see them in person.
Have receipts from the plumber who did the repairs.
If self-repaired, you're probably out of luck since you aren't likely to have saved repair parts purchase receipts.
Won't hurt to ask.

[Anonymous No.2740810]

whats the cheapest way to store 30-40 gallons of gas? could I use and old water heater tank?

[Anonymous No.2740871]

>>2740790
my first assumption would be some sort of mechanism for maybe holding fabric in place, ,but its such shitty craftmenship that I can't figure out what tool it would be imitating

In theory, something can be pulled over the circled section and then stretched under the wired part to be clamped in place, but that's just me grasping at straws.

[Anonymous No.2740874]

>>2740790
It seems to be like something can be inserted from the right side. It passes through the articulated square thing on the left (while down), then the square can be turned upward, bending/folding whatever is inserted (like straw or maybe ratan). Some kind of wire could be inserted sideways underneath the two small beams in the red circle, the folded straw or whatever points into the square and can then be bound together. I think it’s for making small bundles of straw or herbs or spices chained together

[Anonymous No.2740876]

>>2740704
You need R405.1, not 401.3

[Anonymous No.2740878]

>>2740871
this is the idea I had, drawn for your fapping pleasure

[Anonymous No.2740910]

>>2740878
>this is the idea I had

nonsense.
it's just a stand for a cell-phone.
with variable inclination.

[Anonymous No.2740945]

Kinda dumb question, but not really. I've got a few lag bolts i need to drive and ideally you'd want to use an impact for that. I don't have an impact and don't want to buy one for a single project. I do have a cordless hammer drill though. Would chucking up a socket and using the hammer drill on low speed achieve the same results? From what I understand, they both work in identical ways but the hammer has a faster reciprocating rate.
Worst case I'll drill a pilot hole and use a wratchet to drive it in

[Anonymous No.2740953]

>>2740945
No. Impact drill impacts head with rotational momentum.

Hammer drill hammers down into bricks/rocks.

Get a ratchet+driver for the bolt or a wrench

[Anonymous No.2741015]

Me and some friends get together in my metal building every once in a while and drink, listen to music, etc. We used to go pee on the side of the building but it started to smell like, well, piss after a year or so of doing this. I put the kibosh on it and we go to the bathroom inside now, but the smell lingers a month or so later. Is there anything I can plant or put on top of the Piss Zone that would make it smell like nothing?

[Beppu !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2741018]

>>2740953
>impact drill
Jfc

You’re going to confuse people. It’s impact driver or impact wrench.

Nobody says “impact drill” in burgerland, but in Yurop, that’s what they call a helmet drill.

>>2740945
They don’t workin the same way. A hammer drill won’t do any better than a regular drill with the same torque. That’s why drills are like 500in-lbs and impact drivers are 2000in-lbs

If you buy an impact driver, you will use it. So much nicer driving screws with the impact driver, especially considering how small and compact the modern brushless ones are.

[Beppu !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2741021]

>>2740810
I’m sure it’s against the rules, but maybe? #1 is you need to make sure whatever liner doesn’t get eaten by the gas because gasoline is a solvent. And #2, I would try to keep it in a cold, dark place. Changing temps, when it warms up, will create quite a bit of vapor pressure in the container.

[Anonymous No.2741058]

>>2740876
R405.1 isn't applicable to slab foundations.

[Anonymous No.2741081]

Which design is better for water?
15cm diameter half concrete tubes on the ground for getting rid of rain puddling on a garden area.
I think second one is better incase it starts flowing too fast, won't just splash around, but harder to build.

[Anonymous No.2741166]

>>2740676
>>2740711
Does this top part move freely? It looks like the bottom part gets pinned into the ground with the two rotating rods then the top part slides back and forth
Is there any dirt residue on the two rotating rods?

[Anonymous No.2741177]

installed a new inlet on my washing machine. my feed pipes have this style knob on them. how far open should i twist them? all the way or halfway or how far exactly?

[Anonymous No.2741180]

>>2741166
The top part does not slide or move

Some discoloration and damage is noted around the lower arms

[sage No.2741184]

>>2741177
I always open them all the way and then back them off little bit.

[Anonymous No.2741194]

>>2741180
Ok, I was wondering if that nail on the left went all the way to the long rods. I wonder why on one side the long rods are held together with a nail and on the other its held together with wire. My assumption was that it was some sort of sewing apparatus
The wear on the outside rods must be from something.
Is there any other signs or wear on it? Is there anything on the underside

[Anonymous No.2741196]

>>2741194
There's more discoloration on the one stick on the bottom but no real wear. There are spots where the wood has split from the nail driven into its backside

[Anonymous No.2741198]

>>2741184
ty

[Anonymous No.2741252]

I'm cleaning up some rubber edged weight plates.
The rubber is a bit cracked in places, so I want to make it look alright before painting it with some marine paint.
Is there some sort of durable filler solution I can paint into/over rubber that wont look like trash and will take paint later?

[Anonymous No.2741253]

>>2741252

[Anonymous No.2741257]

>>2741196
I've got nothing. Is there no residue of note anywhere on the thing? Like bits of fabric or string stuck in it or maybe a scent of food or an electronics smell coming from it?
Maybe it really is just junk someone made>>2741196

[Anonymous No.2741364]

>>2741196
>>2741180
unironically you might want to ask someone on reddit at r/whatisthisthing/.
Way more traffic so more likely someone has seen a tool like this

[Anonymous No.2741421]

My mouse buttons broke. Can I replace them with any Omron model that fits or does it have to be the same one?

[Anonymous No.2741425]

>>2741421
Anything will work, it's a standard size.

[Anonymous No.2741437]

>>2741425
Thanks a lot

[Anonymous No.2741479]

how much power do rechargable gas station nicotine vape pens use? my coworker asked to use my powerbank to charge his pen and it used like half my powerbank battery. maybe i left it uncharged the night before or maybe those pens are power hogs. anyone know?

hes trying to quit smoking so he switched to vape pens *rolls eyes*

he also has no water and i gave him a ride to the gas station and he bought a hungry man meal and a 12er of mountain dew but no water, he said the gas station charges too much at $2.50/gal (foodstamps) and he has no coins to refill gallon jugs from the machine, wow

[Anonymous No.2741484]

>>2741479
Depends. If it's a half decent one they could fit an 18650 in it so you can get 2500mAh out, if it's cheap junk it could be sub 700mAh. Could sap a powerbank if you've just got a cheap 10000mAh one.

[Anonymous No.2741487]

>>2741479
Anywhere between 600 and 3000 but typically 1.5mAh per puff

[Anonymous No.2741491]

My basement floors are unsealed concrete and they're pretty disgusting. They probably weren't cleaned in 20+ years. I've used the shop vac for all of the big stuff, then I ran my Roomba down there like 5 times, so it's at least swept clean for a change.

Now I want to use some water and dish soap to get the really deep gunk up. I'm planning using a push broom instead of a mop because that's what I have, and I feel like it will do a better job of scrubbing.

Here's my question: where do I dump the water I vacuum up? I could put some sort of filter on my utility sink drain, but I'm concerned that some of the finer particles will make it through any reasonable filter, then past the P trap and clog my drain elsewhere if I just dump them down the sink. Is there some sort of filter I could pass things through? Should I wait and let the water settle out for a day so after vacuuming it up, then take the sludge at the bottom and throw it in the garbage instead of down the drain? I was thinking a coffee filter would get the heavy fines out, but I'm obviously not going to pass gallons and gallons of water through a goddamn coffee filter.

[Anonymous No.2741492]

>>2741491
Also the home was built in the 1940s so I don't exactly want to throw the sludge onto my own garden...

Maybe I'll just dump everything into a couple of 5-gallon buckets and let them dry for a few weeks?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2741493]

>>2741491
Dump it outside. Dish soap won’t hurt your lawn or anything.

Unrelated Protip: don’t dump paint thinner on grass. That shit is like 1000x Roundup, it kills the grass right before your eyes while Roundup takes at least a day before the plant starts to wilt

[Anonymous No.2741497]

>>2741491
Anything that goes through this that isn't grease won't hurt your drain.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2741501]

>>2741497
My wife would’ve said this.

If anon already vacuumed a bunch, it’s just going to be dirty water and dish soap. The food chunks that sneak down the drain are way larger.

[Anonymous No.2741507]

>>2741493
Oh my strategy with paint thinner is to dump it onto sheets of cardboard so it will evaporate quickly. That way I can't get in trouble for dumping it anywhere. :)

>>2741501
I'm afraid that the sheer amount of fine concrete particles will settle "somewhere" and create a clog. Or am I being dumb?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2741512]

>>2741507
I don’t think concrete will get absorbed into the water you’re vacuuming up and then somehow harden again somewhere else. If your concrete floors turn into slurry with warm water and dish soap, you may have some further issues.

[Anonymous No.2741515]

>>2741512
I'm not too worried about the water and dish soap dissolving the concrete that's already there, ha.

But there's 20+ years of concrete dust on those floors - it's no problem if that goes down my drain? I guess it'll be pretty diluted, and it'll be moving along.

[Anonymous No.2741522]

>>2741515
>it's no problem if that goes down my drain?

well. toilets have 4-inch pipes.
big enough for a kid's pet gerbil or turtle that died in their sleep (and not at all coz you stepped on them by ''mistake''.)

[Anonymous No.2741529]

>>2741515
Concrete dust is basically just sand, it won’t clog or harden and you vacuumed most of it anyway. Let it settle in a bucket and throw the solid fraction it into the trash if you’re worried about it clogging anywhere

[Anonymous No.2741530]

>>2741515
Drains are sloped for this reason. The silt will be carried away by the water eventually.

[Anonymous No.2741559]

>>2741522
>>2741529
>>2741530
>>2741497
>>2741512
Okay thanks anons. I will let it settle for a bit and then pour most of it off without going insane about the random little bits of silt.

[Anonymous No.2741572]

Why are these cable cutters so expensive?

There offer a number of models that look essentially identical other than the huge price points.

Is it the quality of the metal?

[Anonymous No.2741577]

>>2741572
You are paying for quality all around. Higher quality materials. Higher quality manufacturing. Higher quality workers, higher quality control.
It costs a lot of wages to employ a non-bugman, and the companies who do pay those wages use them to the best of their abilities.

It all topples down if the quality isnt there, the company would fold.

[Anonymous No.2741589]

>>2741572
Don't listen to the other anon. For an established company, that isn't true. Maybe 30% of the cost is like that, but you're basically paying triple what it's worth due to the brand name.
150 is the realistic upper limit for "it's expensive because it's made by whites and is good quality" for hand tools.
The prices are that high simply because people pay for it. Usually employers, who don't know better, and people with excessive amounts of money who don't care.

[Anonymous No.2741596]

Anyone know if they make these saddle brackets in a horizontal configuration? Im going to do a cable railing for my front porch. The plan is to do a 2x4 for the very bottom rail (4" side top to bottom using picrel) and for the top rail im doing a 2x4 flush between the top of the support posts mounted opposite to the bottom rail (4" side from front to back) and a 2x6 secured to the top of the posts and 2x4 to rail section.
I'd like to use those saddle brackets for the 2x4 top rail for uniformity

[Anonymous No.2741597]

>>2741577

What jobs or occupations would require you to have 600 dollar wire cutters and why won't the 100 or 200 or 400 dollar ones work?

I am genuinely interested

[Anonymous No.2741612]

>>2741597
The cheaper ones would work, but there is always a market for a premium top of the line tool.
Those are swiss made with a lifetime warranty and replacement parts.

The type of company that would buy such a tool, probably justifies the slightly more money up front hoping to have more longevity and less downtime with dull and broken tools.
Time is money and all that.

[Anonymous No.2741616]

>>2741596
Use pocket holes instead of stupid brackets

[Anonymous No.2741633]

I'm poor white trash. I live in an aging mobile home and the 15 year shingles are nearing the end of its life. Most likely will need replaced this year and will need to patch the damage so far. I have a few stains on my ceiling from water intrusion. About the size of a tea cup plate. Its mostly near the ridge cap. The underlayment sticks out and is flapping around in bad wind storms and I think some of the shingles as well.
I need to start buying materials. I most likely will have to do it myself. I have no help and my family ignores me when I need help, they only come knocking when they need something. I don't think I could ever afford a roofer. Its a 16x70 single wide. Fairly low pitch, I want to say 3:12. So somewhere around 8 1/4 ft lengths. I want metal. I collect rainwater and I'd like a clean surface.
I guess what I need to know is what tools I will need. I also need to know a good and stable ladder. I can deal with heights but rickety ladders scare me.
Locally it seems most metal is 29 gauge but that seems thin. Is it worth splurging for 24 gauge or even standing seem?

[Anonymous No.2741648]

>>2741616
i like the way you think. i haven't considered doing that. the brackets would be easier, but using pocket holes would look seemless.
the holes worth plugging or no? the only holes that would be visible would be on the bottom rail. i can hide the top rail holes completely.

[Anonymous No.2741650]

>>2741633
personally, im a big fan of the traditional blue tarp for single wides.
im a little confused about the metal. do you plan on making shingles with it, or a complete sheet metal roof?
as far as a ladder goes, im a huge fan of auto levelers. you never need to worry about level ground again and adds a ton of stability to any ladder
https://www.advancedladders.com/product/level-eze-auto-leveler-swivel-feet/

[Anonymous No.2741673]

>>2741597
The cheaper ones won't work because it's like cutting a lock with bolt cutters that are shittier than the lock.

It might sort of work but you.meed.to take a couple goes at it and it's a lot more work.

[Anonymous No.2741681]

I have these speakers hooked up after some years. the bass is pretty trash compared to what I remember. Could it be that a condenser is blown or something? They work normally just without bass. What could cause such a problem?

[Anonymous No.2741688]

>>2741681
>a condenser is blown or something?

could be.
a more likely reason is the paper cone is ripped or came unglued.
ditto for the cone surround which is made of paper, rubber, or foam.

[Anonymous No.2741689]

>>2741681
Probably something in the amp, hopefully just a setting (bass level), or it's a Sony from the early 2000s so it probably has a bass boost you can turn on or a "loudness" button you can toggle.

It's possible it's something in the speakers, but you'd probably know immediately if the midwoofer wasn't playing at all. There's not a lot that would just reduce the bass without clearly sounding broken broken, like a loose connection, damage to the crossover, etc. One of the capacitors on the crossover might be bad, but this doesn't seem old enough for that to be the case.

Or a cap could have gone bad in the amplifier, but that's unlikely.

I'd still bet it's a setting in the receiver, rather than anything actually broken.

BUT FIRST check ALL your wiring connections. Red to red, black to black, power cord seated nicely, all that.

Do you have any way to hook the speakers up to a different amp/receiver or hook that amp to a different pair of speakers, in order to troubleshoot?

[Anonymous No.2741691]

>>2741673
To be fair, a lot of those "high end" tools do the same job as some standard tools. Some retard car mechanics pay out the ass for a snap-on screw driver when a $5 craftsman does the same exact thing.

[Anonymous No.2741706]

>>2741689
>>2741688
I checked all the cables and the settings. they are all fine. I took a closer look at the bass woofer while playing music and they didn't move at all.
I think it really could be the membrane that's not attached to the spool anymore or something like that.
Guess I have to try opening one up.

[Anonymous No.2741713]

>>2741681
>the bass is pretty trash
That is to be expected from Sony

[Anonymous No.2741839]

Can anyone recommend (or not recommend) these?

[Anonymous No.2741841]

>>2741839
It's okay. I don't trust the crimpers.

[Anonymous No.2741842]

>>2741841

If I actually need to use the crimper would you suggest these instead?

Thanks for the help friend

[Beppu !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2741902]

>>2741839
I’m sure they work fine.

I sort of hate those all-in-one crimper/stripper tools. Every brand sells them, they work but they’re often large and flat and awkward to use, plus no spring so stripping is more of a headache. Klein’s aren’t as fuckheug as some of the cheaper ones at least.

I suggest a normal pair of strippers with a spring that fit the wires you’re working with. If you need to crimp the odd thing, I guess get a cheaper version of the one you posted, or a ratcheting crimper with dies to do it right. I have the long crimpers with the little wire cutter on the end for crimping, and I don’t think any of them are that great until you get a crimper made specifically for the terminals you’re using.

[Anonymous No.2741903]

>>2741839
I have that pair. They work fine.

[Beppu !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2741904]

>>2741842
It’s good to have linesman pliers anyway, so get one with the crimper if you want the option?

If you’re crimping a lot of important stuff, pretty sure the way to go is a crimper like pic related with the proper dies. Any of the other pliers that aren’t dedicated crimpers are always just ok.

That being said, I have yet to buy a ratcheting crimper like picrel because as a homeowner and DIYer, I maybe crimp a couple terminals a year.

[Anonymous No.2741957]

Can anyone help me discover the name of what these internal parts are called? The ones that spin and let grains through

[Anonymous No.2741965]

I have some black shit on the bottom of my shikibuton that looks like, and probably is, mold. Toss it? It's like a 6"x3" pattern. Is there any cleaning/neutralizing this?

[Anonymous No.2741968]

I do some side work doing custom woodwork and laser engraving. It started out being an excuse to pay for tools I wanted but couldn't justify but has become fairly lucrative despite being low effort on my part (as 90% of people want the same things, just with their name on it, so at this point I barely do any "custom" work).

I don't want to incorporate and for now have kept it strictly cash only. I still want to stay local and I'm not looking to market far and wide, or at all, other than to a selected few.

What's a good way to display my work pieces online? I just want a gallery of work and examples of what I can do that I can link to from a QR code on a business card. I also have a public facing job and would prefer it not be on Facebook or similar. I also don't typically solicit sales unprompted because I get tired of telling people that I'm not going to make them a bespoke dining room set for less than they can buy one at Ikea. Is there a site that offers this sort of gallery posting in relative permanence? I do not need or want payment processing, because this makes enough that it would probably be a business but not enough nor do I want to make it bigger to make it worth the headache of an LLC.

A Google drive post might work. Can Apple users open them easily in their browsers? Dropbox?

[Anonymous No.2741970]

>>2741957
I found something close to it called "rotary valve rotor", but those are not spherical

[Anonymous No.2741990]

>>2741968
>I'm not looking to market far and wide, or at all, other than to a selected few
>I just want a gallery of work and examples of what I can do
>I also don't typically solicit sales unprompted

A physical portfolio or book? If you don't want the advantages that posting stuff online brings, why post online at all?

[Anonymous No.2741994]

>too cheap to buy new humidifier filters
>too lazy to pull them out and soak them in bleach or vinegar
What cheap chemical can I dump in my humidifier to clean these things without stinking up my apartment or poisoning me?

[Anonymous No.2741996]

>>2741990

I just want to be able to hand people a card with a qr code and show them examples of shit without having to send them an email with a million attachments.

It looks like Google Drive will do what I need.

[Anonymous No.2742002]

>>2741996
>hand people a card with a qr code

that sounds kinda silly.
people (with brains) who do custom work will place said work where others specifically GO TO FIND custom work.
like Etsy.

[Anonymous No.2742009]

>>2739042
Is there an android SMS app that allows for downloading MMS messages from contacts only? I have it disabled since it's a common vector no one does shit about.

[Anonymous No.2742011]

>>2741965
Bleach, maybe 4 to 1 ratio. Test it in an inconspicuous place first, but when there is mold, always bleach

[Anonymous No.2742025]

>>2742002

I specifically am not looking for random solicitations. I just want a zero cost way to display pieces for the few people and businesses I do do work for. I do occasionally start doing work for new people, but I have a real job so I don't want to be swamped. I also make enough off of it that I'm actively avoiding anything approaching an actual "business", and I definitely don't want to end up with 1099s or whatever from etsy, or to rub up against IRS guidelines about businesses, and one of their stipulations in the past has been actively advertising is one of the criteria for what is a business vs a hobby.

If it sounds like a weird request, it probably is. But a QR code on a business card isn't strange at all, especially to show off various projects.

[Anonymous No.2742031]

Will this lubricant work on caliper slider pins?

[Anonymous No.2742033]

>>2742031
forgot pic

[Anonymous No.2742054]

>>2742031
>>2742033
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Permatex’s Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lubricant is an environmentally-friendly, green, non-melting, synthetic lubricant. This Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lubricant is formulated to lubricate under the most adverse brake conditions, assuring that critical caliper pins, sleeves, bushings and pistons remain lubricated throughout pad life.

[Anonymous No.2742065]

>>2741681
Do they have a separate base cord?
I had some old stereo speakers that had 2 pair each
The stereo itself could be the issue if it thinks you have a sub

[Anonymous No.2742107]

>>2742065
This is the most likely answer. I have a high-end sound system that has additional speaker cables to handle things like female vocalists and everyone says it sounds more realistic than any sound system they've ever experienced.

[Anonymous No.2742127]

>>2741253
>>2741252
nobody answered me, but I ended up landing on some Marine paint from the local chandlers.

[Anonymous No.2742128]

>>2741673
>the cheaper ones wont work
the "cheaper ones" are 10-15 usd
the premium quality ones are 60-140
the "I'm a retard" quality ones are 500 dollars

[Anonymous No.2742165]

>>2739212
>>2739210
The mirrors are so you don't have to bend down to see in lmaooo
You'd keep common items in the drawers and these cubbies

[Beppu !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2742169]

>>2742165
Nope, it’s definitely >>2740769 >>2739237

[Anonymous No.2742219]

>>2740704
If she's that worried, you can run a French drain around the house with a rented mini excavator and then pipe it into a sump basin (inside if you're in da north, outside of it rarely freezes) and pump any residual water out

Water management is always a case by case basis. My neighbors house had bad drainage on a side of the house that made no sense with minimal water penetration on the side of the house that's downhill
My house only had water issues down about 3" from the top of the soil meaning the earth was well compacted over time

I wouldn't worry about a slab on grade house unless the soil is almost level with the top of the slab.

One of my remodels I ended up digging out a bit of dirt to drop the soil level and it immediately fixed the moist bottom wall plates the house had in 2 rooms

[Anonymous No.2742220]

>>2741253
Those aren't bumper plates lmaoooo

You could dip them in plastidip if you really wanted tho

[Anonymous No.2742221]

>>2741648
Get crafty and hide the pocket holes
I literally just toe screw this shit with the screws hidden (basically pocket hole screwing but without the nerdy predrill)

[Anonymous No.2742227]

>>2741633
I would look into flat roofing stuff if I was doing a low pitch
New construction wants the stickdown waterproof underlayment for low pitch so you might as well go all the way

Most places that sell sheet metal will cut it for you so you really just need to do all the trim properly in the right order

[Anonymous No.2742239]

>>2739042
.work for a recycling company
found one of those cheapish ( 150 -200 ) laser hair removers took it home.
anything interesting I can do with it kinda wana use it for something but idk what to build with it.
any ideas?

[Anonymous No.2742243]

>>2742239
Go as an alopecia patient for Halloween

[Anonymous No.2742283]

>>2739042
Might as well ask here. I cannot STAND drywall. I don't know who fucking thought this was a good material, but my hatred for it is irrational, insane, and all-encompassing. It's the fucking worst. I have some places where it was not done correctly and it's just driving me up the damn wall. I was curious if a plywood panel combined with a FRP cover is a good substitute, albeit a pricey alternative, since that would, when combined with foam board insulation in the middle with fire foam, give an insulated, water resistant, mold resistant, shift resistant, and lightweight panel that can still be painted and treated as drywall without it fucking cracking, scratching, or just being the fucking worst wall material I've ever laid my goddamn hands on.

Price is not a worry here, as I'm going to be replacing it one room at a time since I need to redo wiring and install insulation anyway. There is no reusing this drywall once it comes down, but a FRP plywood panel if done right, could potentially be reusable, which would make certain jobs and inspections in the future much less of a pain in the ass.

But this is, of course, all conjecture. Any anon's here handle FRP, and would it work to replace drywall?

[Anonymous No.2742284]

>>2742283
>put up drywall
>mud/tape the seams
>cover it all with wood paneling
?

[Anonymous No.2742306]

any thermostats that arn't internet connected homo crap?
I want a House thermostat that can do basic scheduling and that's it.
no wifi or Bluetooth nonsense.(or at least able to be disabled)

[Anonymous No.2742313]

Any tips for searching a place for a workshop?
I live in a flat, and want to rent some place for DIY. I do mostly electronics, but want to learn some metalworking, which become a problem in a flat.

[Anonymous No.2742323]

>>2742313
If the landlord puts his hands on you or tries kissing you when you first meet there's a chance you can get a good deal on the rent if you let him fuck your ass. The benefit to that is you can actually competitively price what ever you make against people who have their own home workshop

[Anonymous No.2742329]

>>2742220
Never said they were
but these have rubber edging on them (I'm not sure they came from the factory like that)

[Anonymous No.2742336]

>>2741196
>>2741364
The not knowing, grr. What state/ city did you get it?

It is rattan. I am guessing it is a jig for making something.
It is sort of like a weird hand loom, but isn't.

The holes were probably predrilled for the nails.

If you find out, please post the answer.

[Anonymous No.2742340]

>>2742336
>What state/ city did you get it?
A Salvation Army in Cedar Rapids, Iowa

It does have the feel of a handmade jig for making something, that was my first thought. If it was a toy it would more obviously look like something (unless it has missing parts). I will probably have to go to Leddit like >>2741364 suggested

[Anonymous No.2742341]

>>2741572
I don't know of a company that makes better pruning shears than Felco, I have used them for decades doing landscape work. They are clearly superior to all the other brands I have used.

[Anonymous No.2742344]

>>2742340
It looks complete.
I don't know my rattans well enough to guess where it came from, Malaysia, maybe?

It is a wonderful "whutdafuqizdat?"

[Anonymous No.2742345]

>>2742323
You sound lonely.

[Anonymous No.2742347]

>>2742345
no landlord action
many such cases

[Anonymous No.2742349]

>>2742347
Divorcee landladies something something give them the big tip every month.

[Anonymous No.2742376]

Water is leaking on all sides of my chimney. I think it just started or maybe I only just noticed as we've got a fuck load of rain. Everything should be in good shape.
Last year I did
>roof redone + flashing
>repointed chimney to roof (plus a chimney liner)
What should I do? My dad says to contact the roofer first.

[Anonymous No.2742380]

>>2742376
Your dad is correct. Hopefully, the roofer is reputable. Consider tarping it if there are delays.

[Anonymous No.2742388]

>>2742380
Thanks anon.

[Anonymous No.2742452]

>>2742284
>>2742284
>I hate drywall
>put up drywall a

No. Anyone else have any experience with FRP panels?

[Anonymous No.2742497]

>>2741253
probably could have done better. Another coat to go in a few days.

[Anonymous No.2742536]

Does anybody have experience with those AprilAire whole-house humidifiers? Are they a meme?

[Anonymous No.2742548]

I want to learn building a garden/workshop shed. This includes laying the foundation, framing, roofing, etc etc..
Do you have any recommendations where I could learn more about?

[Anonymous No.2742578]

I own a Mabef 06 easel that's been in storage for around a year and a half due to me moving around. Storage unfortunately wasn't heated so I could tell some of the screws and other metal parts got some discoloration now that I finally brought it home. However I now can't for the life of me adjust the shelf. I am seriously bummed out because if I can't move the shelf from its lowest position the easel is practically useless. Already undid everything that can be loosened by hand. What the fuck do I do now? The part of the rail mechanism that I can see looks fine, not corrugated, and I can lift the bolt easily, I just can't get the shelf to move. Pic related, the upper part is what I'm trying to get to move upwards. Will post two more pics to clarify the construction.

[Anonymous No.2742579]

>>2742578

The bolt and rail system of the shelf. It doesn't strike me as rusted or something and I can easily pull the bolt up.

[Anonymous No.2742580]

>>2742578
>>2742579

The side of the shelf system, the shelf is supposed to slide up and down over the rest of the easel and it used to do that without issues. I appreciate your help.

[Anonymous No.2742678]

How do I locate floor joists under carpet? I tried using a stud finder but it didn't pick them up (didn't really expect it to work)

[Anonymous No.2742707]

>>2742678
math

[Anonymous No.2742721]

what do with old boots. can they be reasonably repaired. is shoe repair a real thing? ive been wearing the same boots for 4-5 years now, they are falling apart and hurting my feet. I bought new boots but the hoarder instinct in my brain tells me to maybe not throw away old boots. Should I just throw away old boots?

[Anonymous No.2742740]

>>2742721

That's what cobblers are for. But if the soles are fucked it's probably cheaper to buy a new pair. Such is the world of mass production we currently live in.

[Beppu !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2742892]

Does anybody else feel really dirty buying blatant knockoffs from this place? If the rape van wasn’t charging $100 for these and the Taiwan knockoff was $14.97 w/ tax because of MLK day coupons, I would probably pass.

They have new knockoff Swedish pipe wrenches too, tempting but the Knipex isn’t as overpriced as Snappy when it comes to price vs the original.

I bought the Raptor knockoffs too, but that’s not really a tool where tooth hardness is essential

[Anonymous No.2742904]

>>2742306
I've got an Ecobee that I'm totally satisfied with.

It does have wifi, but I haven't connected it to my home network.
It works just fine as a programmable thermostat without network connectivity.

My local power company (Xcel) gave it to me totally free, so I expected it to be bottom of the barrel and cheap. But I've been surprised and pleased by the Ecobee thermostat.

[Beppu !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2742910]

>>2742892
That tip profile got me.

Also y’all keep an extra pack of Newports in your tool bag, right?

[Anonymous No.2742991]

>>2742910
Most of us don't actually have a legitimate compulsion to buy tools, as much as it's joked about

[Anonymous No.2743006]

How big is the edge for you to get going doing after a break or when you have a new tool?
I have a fix idea I want to accomplish, I got the tools, have the materials marked for cutting but then it seems like a foolish project and I procrastinate, while developing the idea further.

[Anonymous No.2743009]

>>2742721
Disassemble the best pairs, transfers the pieces onto paper with seams etc marked, throw away with good conscious knowing you can remake them (if you really want to).

[Anonymous No.2743027]

This guy appears to be have been closest to correct >>2740694

Reddit found an eBay listing for an item that almost exactly matches what I have, a model of a Jamaican raft.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256366244581

So that's that, mystery solved

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2743030]

>>2743006
I wait til my next day off, then start feeling like a useless bum around 11:30am and start tackling a project.

I have some patio furniture I want to strip and repaint, but I really don’t want to spend 6hrs with the wire brush and then trying to paint all that large shit. Plus they have fabric backs and bottoms so the 4 chairs need to come apart and probably the table. Already have new brushes on standby.

[Anonymous No.2743034]

Have been thinking about making a large travel bag out of some tarpaulin sheets. I'd tie it all with a rope. But it's got to be waterproof and able to carry 15kg/4o lbs. Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.2743035]

>>2743034
Is this too autistic?

[Anonymous No.2743083]

How stupid / doable is this: I want to take a seat from a wrecked car and attach it to the piston /damper on a normal office chair.
I have back issues and car seats never give me trouble and I'm tired of buying office chairs and not being happy + I hate armrests on chairs which makes it even harder to find a good chair (which car seats do not have!).

[Anonymous No.2743087]

>>2743034
How is it going to be waterproof if its covered in grommet holes?
Also without some sort of frame, youll never be able to carry that sort of weight.

Purpose built backpacks for heavy loads have metal frames to hold onto, and distribute the weight evenly.
Your fucking santa claus bag is going to be impossible to actually use

[Anonymous No.2743088]

>>2743083
It should be fine.
I'm sure you'll be getting a used car seat. Get the passenger side.

[Anonymous No.2743091]

>>2743087
I'm sorry man

[Anonymous No.2743093]

>>2743088
Based.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/turn-old-car-seat-new-office-chair/
And ofc it's been done before. Shouldn't be too difficult.

[Anonymous No.2743101]

>>2743083
You underestimate how much a car seat weighs, and how little weight a normal office chair piston can hold. If you pick a real cheap shitty chair as your base, the plastic legs will break or the piston wont hold.
That said, It would be easy to fabricate a mount between the two.
Keep in mind, wrecks can destroy seat mounts, which could make fabrication harder.

I have issues with a bad neck so I know the struggle with seating, in both office chairs and in buying cars with seats that wont kill me.

My advice is to not fuck around, bite the bullet and buy a real office chair.
Find a used office supply store, or go to a real supply store (not officemax) that is a dealer for real chairs.
Steelcase, or Herman Miller, or X-Chair etc etc
They are built to last and have like 10 year warranties,

Go sit in a bunch of chairs, you will find something that fits properly. They have all sorts of shapes and sizes for different ergonomics.

I bought my first Herman Miller chair at a used office supply store. They buy furniture from dead companies, or offices/hospitals that remodel.
It was a decade old when I got it, and Ive had it since like 2012. It was my main office chair till a couple years ago when I bought a brand new one, its still kicking.

They can be expensive, but they will literally last a decade or more.
Its one of the cases where you get what you pay for.

[Anonymous No.2743122]

>>2741015
this or there's probably a home remedy

[Anonymous No.2743262]

is it possible to make a pulley and rope based mini excavator
should be faster than hand digging right?

[Anonymous No.2743265]

>>2743262
Would be faster to rent one.

[Anonymous No.2743277]

Bought a chair to learn how to work with leather, need to figure out how to add legs to it. Issue is I can't really visualize how I'd add legs to the bottom of this. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.2743289]

>>2743277
>I can't really visualize

check underside of some tables for an example.
leg is jammed in between the 2 wood pieces.
two screws go thru leg and into red circles.
one screw goes thru wood piece (blue circle) into leg.
add glue if you want to keep it from creaking.

[Anonymous No.2743290]

>>2743289

my slave forgot the pic.

[Anonymous No.2743309]

>>2743262

[Anonymous No.2743310]

>>2743309
Heavy Duty version

[Anonymous No.2743334]

>>2743309
>>2743265
stupid fucking niggers

[Anonymous No.2743461]

>>2742380
>Water is leaking on all sides of my chimney
The roofing people took one look and said the mason did a bad job here and that water will pool up and they should have made inside the cap flow outwards.
Does that have any merit?
The roofers did point out areas the mortar is still wet from apparent water ingress.
https://imgur.com/a/xsbzCcB

>Consider tarping
I think I may tarp the top of the chimney only and see if that solves the leak or not.

[Anonymous No.2743479]

Trying to fix a top loading CD player. Problem is when i put in a disk, it spins and then a few seconds later there's some clicking noise and then it turns off. I cleaned the laser and opened it up and didn't see any noticeable damage or obstructions. Even turned the gears myself and saw that the laser can still move back and forth. Any idea what the issue might be?

[Anonymous No.2743525]

I was redirected here from /g/, an anon recommended this would be the proper place to ask:
Can somebody please elaborate on what (presumably) archaic heating/cooling unit/system is being shown in picrelated?
It's from a NYC apartment listing and "central air" is mentioned in the specifics. The /g/anon pointed out that this isn't central air, but a floor mounted AC unit.
If that's true I presume that heating as well as cooling is managed by that unit.
Can somebody elaborate on the specifics from the picture alone?
Is it pretty much all electric?
Thanks in advance.
>t. europoor to whom AC is an alien concept

[Anonymous No.2743536]

>>2743525
It looks like what we used to have in my old school building. Yeah it would blow out hot or cold air and they usually didn't work that well. No idea what it is called.

[Anonymous No.2743547]

what is something interesting I can do with phone batteries? I have these after multiple failed attempts to bring back to life some bricked phones , i was thinking a flashlight with some leds maybe

[Anonymous No.2743564]

>>2743547
>something interesting

not particularly interesting, but useful.
use 'em to replace dead Lipos in bluetooth speakers, bluetooth keyboards, shavers, wireless phones, cell phones, remotes, MP3 players, vapes, walkie-talkies, electric toothbrushes, toys, and 1 million other things.
instead of throwing them away, which is what the jews want, by pricing custom replacement batteries the same as a new item.

[Anonymous No.2743565]

>>2743525
Packaged Terminal Air Conditioners And Heat Pumps
aka - package units
depending on the application, may have a gas heat furnace inside instead of a heat pump.

[Anonymous No.2743594]

>>2739042
Apparently my mom's sink froze despite her running the faucet a bit. As in the sink is full of water. Nothing that can really be done about it tonight. Home is from the 70s. I'm not even home tonight either

How fucked do you think I'm gonna be come tomorrow?

[Anonymous No.2743638]

>>2743565
tyvm anon

[Anonymous No.2743701]

i want to buy some mini thermometers. I see all of these keychain / carabiners which have them in, but can't find anywhere to buy the actual thermometer units. I doubt the companies who make these manufacture the actual thermometers themselves, they just stick them in the unit. Searching alibaba has come up with nothing.

[Anonymous No.2743702]

>>2743701

[Anonymous No.2743746]

why are AC amp clamps $5 while DC amp clamps are $300

[Anonymous No.2743755]

>>2743030
>but I really don’t want to spend 6hrs with the wire brush
Settle for 1h or even just 15 minutes.
If just the thought of the whole project is tiring it's best to just focus on the immediate task, and take baby steps into it. 15 minutes is all it takes to get started.

[Anonymous No.2743756]

>>2743746
cuz anrdre-marie ampere did not have a hall effect device

[Anonymous No.2743767]

>>2743701
>>2743702
google.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Glass-Thermometer-Designing-Your-Own-Thermometer_269701814.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.629038d5TvWYta

[Anonymous No.2743768]

>>2743547
stab them and watch them blow up

[OP's a niggerfaggot No.2743796]

anyone know what vehicle pic rel belongs to?

[Anonymous No.2743797]

Non-engineer trying to make sense of a spec sheet here. Want to make a sliding table for my drill press and looking at linear guide assemblies. Spec sheet (pic related) gives static and dynamic loads in Newtons. What I've worked out as the correct way to figure out the allowable static load in pounds is Newtons -> Kilogram-Force (which at rest is equal to kilograms) -> Pounds. e.g. for the 16mm H unit, 13,500 N == 1376 kpf == 1376 kg == 3033 lb allowable load at rest. Is this correct, or is there something else I need to be doing to figure out Newtons -> Pounds when at rest?

[Anonymous No.2743806]

>>2743797
>the correct way to figure out the allowable static load in pounds is Newtons -> Kilogram-Force (which at rest is equal to kilograms) -> Pounds. e.g. for the 16mm H unit, 13,500 N == 1376 kpf == 1376 kg == 3033 lb allowable load at rest. Is this correct
Jesus Christ Superstar have you ever heard of google

[Anonymous No.2743829]

I want a meter to evaluate the health of UPS batteries. These are 12v batteries in various sizes that seem to correspond to various amp ratings. Pic rel is an automotive battery testers for 60 bux. Is this what I want or do I need something specific for closed cell lead acid batteries?

[Anonymous No.2743868]

>>2743829
This looks easier to read and your not so concerned with CCa capabilities

[Anonymous No.2743871]

>>2743868
That's only reading voltage and voltage under load. I can do that already with a volt meter and a dummy load.

[Anonymous No.2743873]

>>2743871
What else do you think anything else is doing?

[Anonymous No.2743874]

>>2743873
Current. ESR

[Anonymous No.2743875]

>>2743868
for any other retards like myself who were wondering how it went green red green red here yah go (charging volts vs battery volts, 6 volt system vs 12 volt)

[s10fag !N7td22U8k6 No.2743879]

i have 4500lbs mobile home axles with 2 bent hubs, the 008-222-04 hub everyone stocks is too deep for my spindles. Anyone know any other supplier of these obscure hubs?

I've also considered buying some off the shelf bushings at the Rural King and sleeving the axle inner bearing race for a typical 5200lbs hub. Is this too sketchy or do people do this all the time?

[Anonymous No.2743885]

>>2743879
>Anyone know any other supplier of these obscure hubs?

Any mobile home installer/mover who has been in business a few years probably has piles of them.

[Anonymous No.2743912]

>>2743875
>12 @ 10.3v is 'good'
lol. lmao.

[Anonymous No.2743917]

>>2743912
That's 10.6v. And for a car battery cold crank that's acceptable.

[Anonymous No.2743923]

>>2743874
Ohms law dot gif

It's the same.

>>2743912
That's delivering 100 amps at 10v for 10seconds so that's why it's still good.

[Anonymous No.2743950]

Best practical advice for how a person in trade work with very short or limited breaks who often (almost routinely) does /fit/, /lit/, /diy/ before and after work nearly everyday, avoids mental burnout and fatigue.

There seem to be many here who have well mastered middleclass lives with proper balance and good knowledge that make it sound very doable and easy. I'm giving it as much as I can but I wanna know how you don't get run down and keep moving forward positively with such a long, difficult path ahead of you with almost no "free time" or "lethargic" days.

Thanks.

[Anonymous No.2743959]

>>2743950
Delete the internet. If you've got nothing to do but watch awful TV, it's much easier to do real work.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2743977]

>>2743829
It might work. I got one off Amazon for even less, it works ok, return it if it doesn’t. Assuming they’re 12V lead acids in the correct CCA ratings, might work. Although I recently had a bad battery that tested fine on the digital meter and on the tester like this >>2743868, it would read good for a couple seconds and then drop way off after like 5 seconds of load. But that was a real odd case.

>>2743868
These have a limited range they can test. There’s more expensive larger ones with variable loads which would work well for different size batteries. I have that exact one from HF and it’s supposed to pull 100A, but in reality it pulls like 40A-50A, so it’s difficult to test larger like 650CCA+ batteries that are weak but not totally dead.

If anon is trying to test the UPS as a whole, why not get a Kill-O-Watt or something similar and run a couple lights or fans off the thing?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2743980]

>>2743871
The carbon pile testers still have their place. As described here >>2743977

Guess you could pull the fuel pump relay or something and do the same, but for $15 or whatever I paid for the HF load tester, it’s easy to use.

[Anonymous No.2743986]

>>2743829
Take a look at this similar tester.
It can be adjusted for Ah rate instead of just CCA
2Ah - 200Ah

https://www.amazon.com/2Ah-220Ah-Resistance-Automotive-Alternator-Motorcycle/dp/B09KTX2V7Q/?th=1

[Anonymous No.2744003]

How many watts of LED light can I put in a 1’x1’x2’ plywood box before it becomes a fire hazard? It’s for growing basil

[Anonymous No.2744026]

>>2744003
>It’s for growing basil
I prefer "oregano"

[Anonymous No.2744050]

>>2743923
Where are you getting 100 amps?

[Anonymous No.2744056]

I have a windshield wiper motor I'm trying to connect to ac adapter... there are 2 ground wires attached to motor frame. Do I cut one and connect it to ac? And yes I know I'm a retard

[Anonymous No.2744080]

>>2744056
that's a 12v DC motor. you need an AC to DC power supply to run it.

[Anonymous No.2744090]

>paint a door with chalk paint
>really like how it looks, very smooth and clean
>varnish said door to protect it from scratches
>door is now really shiny and ugly and every single brushstroke stands out as the ceiling light reflects off of it
Does varnish go on doors? I just put it on because I read that's what you do to wooden furniture. Was that a mistake?

[Anonymous No.2744099]

>>2744080
Yeah I have one, I might not have worded my question correctly, I just kinda need to know what to do with the 2 ground wires attached to the frame of the motor

[Anonymous No.2744105]

>>2744090
>Does varnish go on doors?
Yes, on prepared bare wood doors.
The choice is paint OR varnish, not both.

[Anonymous No.2744222]

That box isn’t the right size to grow the plant you’re implying, intentionally made it too small for that

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744235]

>>2744050
Those types of load testers are normally rated at 100A, although picrel shows my HF version doing 40A, but that could be a fried battery.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744238]

>>2744235
>>2744050

[Anonymous No.2744263]

>>2744235
>>2744238
>load testers are normally rated at 100A
Didn't know this. 100A tests is 100% useless for UPS batteries.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744269]

>>2744263
That’s why I recommended one of pic relate. You test car batteries by pulling big loads because the main concern is that the battery can start the car.

Although 100A is like 1200W or less with the voltage drop when you’re going straight to the battery. You’re not pulling 100A from the 120V outlet. I’m not sure what kind of batteries are in the UPS though. I also mentioned the variable load testers, they cost more like $100 I think, but those would be better for testing 12V batteries of different sizes.

Load testers for 12V batteries will tell you how well the batteries can keep up with high demand. Something like the Kill-A-Watt will give you a better idea of the whole UPS and the actual capacity if you plug something in and run it until the UPS dies. It won’t be as fast as the load testers that only take a couple seconds.

[Anonymous No.2744284]

What's the best/easiest way to rustproof a hole drilled into powder coated steel?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744290]

>>2744284
Borrow your sister’s black nail polish from her goth phase and hit the edge of the hole with that. Nail polish is pretty thick and durable. If you’re going to be running something through the hole that could move and scratch it over time, try to find a grommet to go on top of the nail polish?

[Anonymous No.2744296]

>>2744290
It's going to be something like pic related, so the threads/vibration might scratch it, I guess I could epoxy it but then it wouldn't be very serviceable.

[Anonymous No.2744301]

>>2744296
nut 1
flat washer
plastic washer
o-ring (hole liner)
plastic washer
flat washer
nut 2

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744302]

>>2744296
Paint the area where the anodizing is gone from cutting the hole, I always did nail polish because it’s easy to apply and durable, and then try to cut a size that you can easily find a rubber grommet for. It won’t rust from the nail polish, won’t be scratched further, and will still be easy to service.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744304]

>>2744296
Also this >>2744301

That thing is made to go in the hole and not rattle. Just paint wherever you get down to bare metal from making the hole

[Anonymous No.2744342]

How do I remove a corner from this acrylic glass pane? It’s 2mm thick (1/16”) and I don’t want to crack it. To make it shorter I make cuts with the Stanley knife on both sides and then break it off but I’m not sure if that works here

[Anonymous No.2744348]

>>2744342
Practice on an offcut first?

[Anonymous No.2744356]

>>2744348
I worded that wrong I guess. I did plenty offcuts but don’t know if the offcut method I used will work for removing a corner

[Anonymous No.2744376]

>>2739042
Hi, Newfag here

Where can I find this exact product in the US or at least something that meets the same parameters?

Everywhere I look they are either the wrong thickness (4mm) have been treated, are wall cork instead of floor cork or they have an adhesive backing

https://www.siestacorktiles.co.uk/product/a-b-cork/

[Anonymous No.2744377]

>>2744356
Sure, but if you have offcuts, you can test how easy it is to break. Acrylic seems pretty flimsy and not that brittle to me, I'd just drill a hole in the corner and use a hacksaw, or drill along the lines then file it flush. Make sure it's well clamped, test the method first on a smaller piece.

[Anonymous No.2744383]

>>2744269
I have a kill-a-watt for measure power usage. I want to measure battery health.

UPS batteries (at least the ones I have) are 12v closed cell lead-acid batteries. https://www.batteriesexpert.com/en/batteries/sealed-batteries/1012110193-wp9-12-batterie-agm-12v-9a-scellee-t2

It's really annoying how little technical details I can find about UPS batteries. I mean the one above is rated 9a, but how long will it actually put out 9 amps? The unit that's acting funny has 2 of those, is rated 1300 VA 780 watts. With brand new batteries and a 148 watt load, it will run for (roughly) 8 minutes.

[Anonymous No.2744385]

>>2744377
If you want the cuts to be neat, score them with a sharp knife then use a dremel and cutting disc to cut just shy of the line. Then use a file or a sanding drum to get up to the line.

[Anonymous No.2744386]

>>2744383
I'm doing the math wrong : 148 watt * 8 minutes = 1184 which is close enough to the 1300 VA rating that I figure VA means VAm.

[Anonymous No.2744389]

I'm going to tap into a light switch for power, my plan is to cut an extension cord and just tap it in with wago connectors, then fish the cable through my wall up into the drop ceiling - where I will use it to power some smart lights. This is as straight forward as I imagine it to be, right? Can I just use some 15 ft amazon basics extension cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N4PMQS3 or is that a fire hazard?

[Anonymous No.2744391]

>>2744389
Do you have insurance? If you do, lmao. If you don't, you're good, fish that shit through your wall and just hope a rat doesn't chew through it.

[Anonymous No.2744395]

>>2744389
>This is as straight forward as I imagine it to be, right?
No. Do it correctly - get some romex, a electrical box, a socket and a cover.

[Anonymous No.2744410]

>>2744342
cut the short edge with a saw
you can then "break" the long edge
the best option is to cut both with a fine-tooth saw
drill a small hole at the corner of the intended cuts before actually cutting helps to prevent cracks

[Anonymous No.2744414]

>>2744389
>I'm going to tap into a light switch for power,
Light switches frequently don't have line and neutral available in the box.
The switch just 'jumps' a break in the line wire.

[Anonymous No.2744416]

>>2744389
>>2744414

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744418]

>>2744383
VA = watts? Strange.

Is there anything on the labels about the lead acid batteries themselves? Because if you don’t have a CCA or Ah rating of the lead acid battery, then you’re not really going to be able to test it anyway. And if you do know the Ah rating of the battery, you can do the math and approximate how much power you can pull through the 120V outlet with the Kill-A-Watt.

Just opened the link…
>9Ah
Those are small batteries. 9Ah x 12V = 108Wh. So if there’s two of those, that’s 216Wh. Let’s assume you get ~90% conversion efficiency going to the 120V, now you’re at 200Wh with really good efficiency and perfectly healthy batteries at 100% charge and a mild load (true capacity of batteries changes depending how high the load, it’s often lower at real high loads). So that means your UPS with 2x 9Ah 12V batteries in there should power a 200W device for around an hour.

Sounds like both of the batteries are old and shot if you get 8min from a 148W load. Even if one battery was healthy and the other was toast, you should get >20min, closer to 30min. 148W x 8min (0.1333 hours) is like 20Wh you’re getting from your UPS that theoretically should be >200Wh.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744420]

>>2744386
VA isn’t capacity. VA is like Watts, it’s how much power you can pull from the power supply at one time, with power factor involved, and I’m not smart enough for that shit. It’s more like that power supply should be able to support a ~1000W load, maybe a little more, but the actual time for a load that large on a power supply that small is going to be quite short.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744424]

>>2744420
Good ol’ Fluke describes Power Factor with beer…

This is over your head too I’m sure UPS anon, just know the 1300VA isn’t a capacity rating over time, it’s like an instantaneous measurement, the max amount of power you can draw from the UPS at one moment, not how long the UPS will deliver it for.

The actual Watt-hour (Wh) rating tells how long (hours) you can power a given load (watts) for, maybe described as VAh? That’s probably in the owner’s manual or somewhere on the packaging.

[Anonymous No.2744429]

>>2744418
VA is volt/amperes. Check the ups specks for how much of that equals to watts.
I would say 1000VA is usually 800W.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744435]

>>2744429
Yea it’s just a stupid measurement, because if you’re not an EE, VA is Watts, which even in my googling terms, it’s like Watts + 25% to be safe for stuff with a shitty power factor.

Sounds like VA is what the device demands from the power source, and W is what the device actually uses. And the ratio of demand vs actual usage is power factor aka efficiency.

[Anonymous No.2744450]

>>2744377
>>2744410
>>2744385
Thank you frens I will try these tomorrow

[Anonymous No.2744463]

>>2744418
>>2744420
>>2744429
>>2744424
>>2744435
OK, this is a bit I'm going to have to mull over to understand.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744505]

>>2744463
For the most part, imagine the VA number is Watts. That’s the max power the thing can pull. So you can’t put 1500W worth of space heaters on the 1300W (aka VA) MAX UPS. That number only tells you how powerful the UPS is, not how long it can last.

If you see a “VAh” or “Wh” rating on any of the packs, that’s going to tell you how long a healthy UPS should run a device of a given wattage. That little UPS, we did the math based on the 2x 9Ah batteries and it’s about 200Wh, that means it can power a 200W device for ~60min, a 400W device for 30min, 600W device would run .33 hours aka 20min.

Watts is Volts x Amps, that’s total power draw. Wh (watt hour) is capacity, basically volts x amps. A 9Ah x 12V lead acid battery is 108Wh capacity, and two of those 9Ah 12V batteries in a single
UPS will give you 216Wh (watt-hours) of capacity. So assuming perfect conversions, use your Kill-A-Watt to see how many watt hours a device uses until the UPS runs out of power, and you can get a good idea of how healthy the batteries are.

I think the Kill-A-Watt and a known steady load like a fan at constant speed or bright light plugged in to the UPS will be a better gauge of battery health than any battery testers. You just have to do some simple math.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2744508]

>>2744463
>>2744505
Also that VA and Watt rating is on the UPS itself, correct? That number has little to do with the 12V batteries themselves, but rather it’s the upper limit of how much power the UPS can convert from the 12V DC batteries to 120V AC (or maybe 220 or whatever for Yuros).

[Anonymous No.2744646]

the house I bought recently has a pole barn with a late 70's propane furnace in it. the previous owner told me it worked perfectly the last time he used it, which was over a decade ago. obviously it'll need a good cleaning out but how can I make sure it's safe to use before getting a propane tank brought out?

if it's garbage I'll just scrap it and put in a ductless heat pump, but if it's in good shape I may as well use it.

[Anonymous No.2744664]

whats the best way to get super fine scratches out of a kitchen knife? my first thought is buffing wheel with compound but the best thing i have along those lines is a dremel version.

[Anonymous No.2744668]

Are there any of these that are decent and worth the money?

[Anonymous No.2744696]

>>2744414
>>2744416
This looks like power coming in on the left back there, right?

[Anonymous No.2744735]

I want to hide ethernet cables in a condo. Having them along the edges of the ceiling and covering with a plastic raceway is easy but ugly. Hiding them under the baseboards would be tidier, but I would have to carve out room for the cables, is that a dumb idea and how should it even be done?

[Anonymous No.2744737]

>>2744668
They're weak-ish usb screwdrivers. 6nm max so probably more like 5.


There's a different style that I thought looks cooler, it clicks into a metal case.

Hard to justify the price when you could get a 12v screwdriver from your favorite team color andnits better

[Anonymous No.2744738]

>>2744696
>looks like power

you cant go by looks.
you need to test with a voltmeter, or a non-contact tester, or a light bulb, or by touching wires to your tongue.
in any case, it does appear you have both live and neutral present so you can add an extension.
but if you're gonna use cheap extension cord, at least add a 2A fuse in series with the black wire.
also, the presence of a red wire could mean you have 240V available, so you need to be careful not to connect your lamp across 240V. a cheap multimeter will help.

[Anonymous No.2744745]

>>2744668
No. I'll never understand powered mini screwdrivers. Buy a set of proper screwdrivers, buy a bit set, buy a ratcheting bit holder. This covers all use scenarios you'd ever encounter.

These things look sleek, but they're junk. Why would you ever want to use clueless force on tiny, easily stripped screws being driven into weak shit like plastic? Loosening bolts on your car? Sure, get an impact driver, if a head shears off it was fucked anyway.

[Anonymous No.2744746]

>>2744735
>hide ethernet cables in a condo

you can get quarter-round with a groove already cut.
but my recommendation is to use powerline ethernet adapters.
it uses your 120V house wiring as the conduit.
it works best if sender and receiver are on the same phase, so try diff sockets before returning the equipment.

[Anonymous No.2744771]

This is going to sound stupid because it seems obvious, but I can't really understand how it's happened

>Had problems with flushing toilet
>Like it had no water pressure or whatever in it
>Flushes okay again and has done for about a week
>Go to bed last night
>Sink is empty
>Wake up today
>Sink is full of water

It's not toilet water or nothing because it's totally clear. I just don't understand where it's came from. The kitchen sink and bath etc don't seem to have shown any signs of gravity defying water, just the bathroom.
Is this likely a simple blockage that a plunger will fix?

[Anonymous No.2744773]

I once saw in a crime documentary a cluster B woman lowered herself into a chimney to harass ex boyfriend.
The chimney narrowed as satanclaus came down the chimney.

Now consider this narrowing of the “pipe “ please, because I want to use a tapering pipe about 40 feet long on a declining slope to create a natural draft for cooling. Would tapering the pipe in addition to the two holes having different pressures be worth while? Has anyone done anything similar? Chimneys aren’t renowned as summer aircons so is my idea just bonkers? Cooler air from the ground ought to rise up an air tight pipe which if reversed (wide at bottom of slope) should develop some pull. Any thoughts?

[Anonymous No.2744819]

I'm a retard when it comes to wiring, so bare with me.
1) going by the wiring, my tombstones are probably nonshunted?
2) I want to do an single-ended LED conversion. It looks like I would take a red+blue and connect them and connect to neutral and then red+blue and connect to live on one side. The other side with the red, blue, yellow, would just be snipped and covered since I shouldn't need those.
Does this seem about right? I fucking hate wiring.

[Anonymous No.2744822]

>>2744819
much better photo

[Anonymous No.2744824]

>>2744819
If you're putting in LED, why are you not just tearing all this shit out and going back to the base live and neutral wires?

[Anonymous No.2744838]

I tried to fix my light, it works but the thing I don't know how it's called isnt attached to the ceilling what can I do?

[Anonymous No.2744872]

>>2744838
How was that thing attached when you removed it? It should screw or clip into something.

[Anonymous No.2744873]

>>2744824
I guess pretty much what I'm doing. Clipping everything, removing the ballast, and splitting the white and black to the outlets.

[Anonymous No.2744875]

>>2744646
Get a 20-pound propane bottle and connect it up for testing. If the furnace fails you're only out the bit for the small bottle which you may already have on hand.

[Anonymous No.2744890]

>>2739042
I need to set up a phone system for a business.
My company is moving to a new location and I've been tasked with figuring out how to transfer and hook up our phones. I've got all the phones and hardware and stuff. We are not doing VOIP. I assume that I might need to get some wire to run for the phones at the new location.
Can anyone point me to some information on how to do this? Thanks

[Anonymous No.2744895]

>>2744890
Phone your telco and ask them.

[Anonymous No.2744896]

>>2744873
If you want to know exactly what you are doing, remove the shield and look at what the blue and red wires are connected to. And get a voltmeter and figure out exactly what is live and what is neutral. Don't guess.

[Anonymous No.2744897]

Anyone know what kind of tool is used to open up this HVAC access panel?
it doesn't rotate, and if you look closely you can see markings from the tool used (or made by someone else who tried to get in).

[Anonymous No.2744901]

>>2744418
>>9Ah
I've looked at the page a half dozen times and somehow the 9Ah didn't register. It's 9Ah @20h. And I think I figured out what that means - the spec PDF has a table and the 10.2V has 0.45 A in the 20h column. So 0.45A*20h = 9Ah.

Yesterday I ran a calibration test with 2 new batteries. Going from 100% to 25% with a load that's over 48W. In my case I had about 200W load. I didn't measure the time, though. I'll redo the calibration.

One annoying thing - the UPS is saying I'm at 18% load (780 * 0.18 = 140 W) but the kill-a-watt is saying 204 W @ 0.99 power factor.

[Anonymous No.2744909]

>>2744901
>I'll redo the calibration.
So, 17m10s to go from 100% to 25% with a 200 watt load, pf=10.99.

[Anonymous No.2744919]

>>2744890
Your phone numbers are owned by whoever is giving you phone service. If they're not involved in your move they won't be working where you're going.

If you issue a disconnect order on your account and it goes through they will say fuck off, your numbers are lost now, they are never coming back.

[Anonymous No.2744920]

>>2744897
A penny or straight slot screw driver. Put some.mustard in it it's just painted over.

[Anonymous No.2744922]

>>2744738
I metered it, looks like the power circuit comes in on the right side and the left side goes up to the ceiling light. The red wire on the left is unused, so there is no ground.

I found a beefier extension cable I had in storage, model info:
(UL) SJTW E92770 VW-1 75C 16AWGX3C C(UL) SJTW 16AWGX3C 60C FT2
Looks to be 16 gauge wire, while the wall single core is 12 gauge I believe. Is this cable any better than the amazon one I linked https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N4PMQS3 or are they both still too hacky to risk? What's the dangerous part of using an extension cable, the fact that it's multi strand? or the thin gauge?

[Anonymous No.2744930]

>>2744922
Please read and understand >>2744395
and >>2744391

[Anonymous No.2744931]

>>2744909
>pf=10.99
Make that pf=0.99.

[Anonymous No.2744932]

>>2744875
previous owner had a large propane tank somewhere that was trenched to the pole barn. pipe goes in the ground just outside the barn obviously but I cannot figure out where it comes back out. he said propane company took the tank due to lack of use and he can't remember which company he used (he's in his 90's).

[Anonymous No.2744936]

>>2744930
There's nothing to understand there, just commands with no substantiation to make me believe that those posts were made by an actual knowledgeable person. Couch experts are often overly cautious about things they don't fully understand because they feel caution makes them morally right; excess caution isn't always warranted though based on context, such as my capability of making a simple wire connection, and the fact that I don't live somewhere with rats or rodents that could access the wires. The difference is a $70 job that I'd have to drive to a hardware store for, vs a free job that I can do with what I already have immediately.

[Anonymous No.2744938]

>>2744936
The difference is between doing a job that is up to code, which is critical if you have fucking insurance, because when your house burns down and they find some 20 cent multistrand in your roof they're going to turn around and go "lol, lmao" when you ask for your new house, and doing a job that will probably last for 30 years. If you're playing Russian roulette with your life to save a few hundred bucks a year because insurance is gambling or you're never going to light a candle like a retard, go nuts.

[Anonymous No.2744944]

>>2744890
>how to transfer and hook up our phones

i'm assuming you have a PBX system.
there's a lot you need to know, so best bet is to find the documentation for your specific unit.
if that's not available, then you can reverse-engineer the current setup.
assuming you havent taken everything apart yet.
the concept is quite straightforward -
- you mount your PBX on the wall somewhere, where you have Bell phone lines, and a power socket.
- you have some incoming Bell lines (say 4) which usually connect to RJ-45 jacks on the PBX
- you have a bunch of internal PBX lines (say 8) which usually connect to 6-wire RJ-11 jacks.
- you install RJ-11's wall jacks where you need them, and run the above cables to them.
- here is the touchy part: you need to match the currently-installed wire colors on the new jacks. cox PBXs use more than the 2 wires used by Bell lines.
- if you have a fax, you usually connect it to one of the Bell lines, not the PBX.
- same for a monitored alarm system.
- there's sometimes a 2-wire connection to a loudspeaker or horn so you can call, ''Jimmy, stop jerking off in the toilet and come to the phone"

to avoid installing all new phone lines, which is a huge pain, google ''Retrofit a PBX to Existing Phone Lines''

[Anonymous No.2744945]

>>2744668
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF682N1-Gyroscopic-Inline-Screwdriver/dp/B07S8D62P6
It just works.

[Anonymous No.2744947]

>>2744938
It's an apartment rented from a college area landlord - which if you don't know puts them slightly above being a slum lord. The condition of the apartment when I received it reflects this. I plan on ripping it out when I move in 1-2 years, if there's no inherent risk with connecting a 16 gauge wire directly to the wall cables via a wago connector then I'm ok with the potential (extremely low) environmental risk.

[Anonymous No.2744948]

>>2744936
Do not put multistrand into your wall or your ceiling. Do not feed multistrand through a solid member. Do no splice multistrand into the wires in a switch or plug box. Doing any of this is a fire hazard. Doing any of this is against the electrical code. Doing any of this will make you personally liable for any problems it will cause.

There are no valid reasons for putting the shitty cable you linked to inside a wall. Buy the correct material and do it properly.

[Anonymous No.2744950]

>>2744947
Go nuts buddy. As long as it doesn't burn down your life won't be ruined, and even if it does you can claim whoever was in the apartment before you put it in. Anything to save 20 bucks on solid core, right?

[Anonymous No.2744964]

>>2744947
>if there's no inherent risk with connecting a 16 gauge wire directly to the wall cables via a wago connector
There is an inherent risk with doing this. Which is why it's against the code. I take it you aren't the smartest tool in the shed.

[Anonymous No.2744967]

So I built a simple, but pretty nice industrial-looking butcherblock+pipe countertop for my kitchen.

The problem is, the casters that I used are... Not holding up very well.

Anyone know if there are some good heavy-duty casters that can fit into a 1" pipe? I really don't want to need to drill any more holes.

[Anonymous No.2744969]

>>2744950
>save 20 bucks on solid core
He's to cheap to buy the right cable but then splurges on wago connectors. Fucking boomer-tier jury-rigging.

[Anonymous No.2744979]

>>2744967
What's the measurements of that mounting plate?
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/casters/caster-type~swivel/kingston-casters-with-polyurethane-wheels/
I love these, but I doubt anyone makes a 1" shaft caster, because mounting them is more sturdy than a shaft like that.

[Anonymous No.2744997]

The mounting plate is just a flange that fits a 1" pipe. The caster fits snuggly into a 1" pipe nipple that connects to the flange, so it's a total of 3 pieces.

Here's a pic of an undamaged caster and the pipe it gets inserted into.

I don't know much about casters, so I'm trying to find ones that will fit into the pipe and not need any major modifications to the wood (especially since I'd need to essentially disassemble everything to do more drilling).

[Anonymous No.2744999]

>>2744922
>What's the dangerous part of using an extension cable

the smaller gauge means it cant handle the 15-20A than the breaker can provide.
so it can go up in flames.
a simple fix is to add a 2A inline fuse in series with one or both wires. like in euro x-mas lites.
as for joining stranded wire to solid wire: it's done in the majority of light installations, so is not a real problem except in the minds of wannabe brown-shirts.

[Anonymous No.2745001]

>>2744967
How much does it weigh? Divide that by 4 to see how much each wheel needs to support. Multiply that number by 2 to get a safety margin.

[Anonymous No.2745006]

>>2745001
I don't really have a good way to measure the weight. The 3 boards weigh probably ~200lbs in total. Pipes and flanges are probably another ~50lbs total. Probably 300lbs to be safe. That's before I put any of my heavy kitchen equipment on them though.

These casters were rated for ~100lbs each, and this table has 8 of them in total. Considering they failed hard before I put anything on the counter means that they are definitely not well made though. I have some QC issues with the flanges as well that I had to fix with a drill press though. Definitely don't buy anything from Pipe Decor.

[Anonymous No.2745016]

>>2744967
Why not get some heavy duty casters with a mounting plate and drill holes in the mounting plate instead?
Most full metal body, nylon wheel casters with mounting plate are rated 400lbs each, some even 600.

[Anonymous No.2745021]

>>2744920
I don't think that's it anon. I tried turning the thing but I'll give it another go.
You cant see it well but that dark part is a divot, not just chipped paint.
The building managers don't want us opening them so I assume it's a specific tool.

[Anonymous No.2745022]

>>2745021
It looks like a two-pins-on-the-end key.

[Anonymous No.2745028]

>>2742313
My friend's home guitar pedal business expanded into an art studio. Artists can rent rooms to do art, and he rents one to make guitar pedals in. You say "flat" instead of "apartment", so you sound like you live in the same country I do. His art studio is in Oldham so it must be cheap as shit.

[Anonymous No.2745034]

i need some kind of modeling clay-like compound that i can shape freely and that will harden on its own and be reasonably tough
at first i wanted to use epoxy putty but it turns out that i'll need a larger amount and epoxy putty is expensive
what are the good alternatives?

[Anonymous No.2745038]

>>2745034
How much do you need? How resilient does it need to be?

There's DAS air hardening modeling clay, which chips easily when dry.

Better is polymer clay (sold under a dozen brand names, FIMO being the most widely known). It needs to be baked in an oven, but you can do it in a normal oven, not a special pottery oven.

[Anonymous No.2745042]

>>2745038
>How much do you need?
about a kilogram or so
>How resilient does it need to be?
it's very important that it gets hard. it should be able to support a screw. doesn't have to be weather resistant
>It needs to be baked in an oven
this disqualifies it unfortunately. i'll use it on something that won't fit in an oven

[Anonymous No.2745047]

>>2745034
>will harden on its own and be reasonably tough

never heard of this miracle stuff?

[Anonymous No.2745063]

>>2745047
this is too liquid. i need something like plasticine

[Anonymous No.2745064]

>>2744668
I have two of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C4916LS

>>2744745
I needed to replace almost all the outlets in my house, having an electric screwdriver for the terminals and faceplates saved a lot of wrist twisting. The circuit sensor helped speed up the testing of the outlets afterwards massively. There's no forward/reverse buttons, you simply twist the ring in the middle to screw CW or CCW. It charges by USB instead of a proprietary battery. It can be used like a normal screwdriver for a little more torque.
I reach for this for almost every low torque situation.

I hate the electric screwdrivers that bend in the middle

[Anonymous No.2745069]

>>2744922
DO NOT use an extension cord in place of Romex in your wall, retard. They are not rated for continuous usage nor do they handle heat in enclosed areas.

[Anonymous No.2745070]

>>2744997
Just look for casters (with threaded stems) that will hold the weight, then either replace the 1" female threaded plate with an appropriately-sized threading for the caster stems, or find a reducing bushing that goes from 1" to the stem size.

In either case you will likely have to cut off the end of the caster stem so you don't have to drill through the wood.

[Anonymous No.2745071]

>>2745063
Bondo is as viscous as peanut butter when freshly mixed. Mix it up and wait a moment before applying it if you really need the viscosity to be higher. Make sure you use it outside because it smells like chemical death.

[Anonymous No.2745073]

>>2745071
okay, i'll give it a try
thanks for help

[Anonymous No.2745131]

>>2744967
>the casters that I used are... Not holding up very well.

the caster itself seems fine.
the problem seems to be the rubber bushing.
it's compressible, so it gives way under load.
simple solution is to tack weld the bottom of the metal bushing to the top of the caster.
you'll still be able to remove the caster by unscrewing the bushing with a vice grip, or removing the wood screws.

[Anonymous No.2745196]

Woke up, boiler was dead, nothing on the screen, no error codes. Had been working fine maybe 10 minutes before because the radiators were warm.

Turned it off and on again via the on-board switch, nothing. Turned it off at the wall, it flashed for a second then went back to being dead. Turned it to "water only", then back to "water+heating", and it came back to life like nothing had happened, heating fine.

Any ideas? The best I can come up with is a faulty electrical contact on the on-board switch, maybe it oxidised over time or something, thought it got switched to the off position after a bit of vibration. It's one of those three position spinny things, no clicks.

[Anonymous No.2745373]

Well I bought the romex. $23 for romex, a box, and an outlet from amazon, satan be praised

[Anonymous No.2745411]

>>2745373
You will thank yourself later when your house doesn't burn down from faulty electrical wiring

[Anonymous No.2745416]

>>2745411
It's not even his house. It's an apartment he's rented. So not only is he doing a permanent modification to a building he doesn't own, he was planing on doing creating a fire hazard in a building he shares with other people.

>>2745373
Thank you, Anon. My faith is humanity is restored.

[Anonymous No.2745562]

What would you consider the difficulty levels of these jobs?

>replacing a toilet
>removing a shower+bathtub(piping leaks if we turn it on so we've turned off water to it, we want to remove it because we already have a bathtub in a different bathroom)
>replacing tile(glued down, put in during the 50s or 60s)
>fixing a hole in the floor(floor is sinking in, not sure how large the damage is, that's why the tile needs removed)
>installing a dishwasher

Basically, bathroom needs new toilet, bathtub and shower at least removed(preferrably new standing shower but don't want to pay for install), and a hole in the floor fixed. We are poor though, so we can't afford to pay someone to do it, but I've installed a sink before. I would much rather do it myself than pay someone to do it when we can't afford to do so. Don't know anyone who could do it either. Most of the family is backstabbers or drug addicts, except my brother but he broke his back so I refuse to ask him, he has enough on his plate. None of my friends know anything about DIY or home improvement.

[Anonymous No.2745571]

>>2745562
>dishwasher
hooking up a few pipes

>toilet
hooking up two pipes, replacing the seal, redoing the bolts, caulking

>replacing tile
requires materials and tools you don't already have and attention to detail

>removing shower
demolition in a small space without a real floor below it plus plumbing repair, then redoing the hole you've left

>fixing a hole
you have no idea why the hole is there or what is causing it, making this potentially the hardest job

forget the tile, use vinyl planks or something
>t. diyer

[Anonymous No.2745588]

>>2745571
So dishwasher and toilet aren't too bad. Replacing tile, if I need to buy the tools I can. Would vinyl flooring be easier? And yeah I guess removing the shower+bathtub isn't a job for me. I'm pretty sure water damage is the cause of the hole, from the leak of the shower pipes.

[Anonymous No.2745701]

Anybody know good modern technical journals or publications like Phillips Technical Review?
I really like reading it while relaxing but the Phillips Technical Review is mostly outdated tech so I'd prefer something more modern.

[Anonymous No.2745714]

>Go to buy clean home in Florida

>Not clean as in perfect but clean as in, no bondo style repairs & OG terrazzo/bathroom tiles from 1960s.
>Get 4 point inspection,
>no wind mit & Poly present

Roofer people have given quotes to get the house redone that are outrageous to get wind mit.
> Google search of "toe, clip, strap" all show interchangeable content

Is what I have pictured valid as a "clip" or "strap"?

What is the code, aside from the "28" labeled on the back of the nail, which I can look for on the box to certify wind mit compliance? Does the below nail link work?

https://www.nailgundepot [.] com/2-1-2-x-148-prh-joist-hanger-nails?ads_adid=1268837073033144&ads_cmpid=402067626&ads_creative=&ads_kw=&ads_matchtype=e&ads_network=o&ads_targetid=pla-4582901927338531&msclkid=1aed117a34f11b2cb56574d1fb8f3899&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=NX_NTM_Smart_Shopping_All+Products&utm_term=4582901927338531&utm_content=All+Products

[Anonymous No.2745772]

I hit this light with a hose to get dirt off it last summer and now it's twilight mode doesn't work. It stay on unless under direct sunlight.
I looked inside and the wire bundle, sensor, and controls are one sealed unit.
What broke?

[Anonymous No.2745791]

>>2745772
>What broke?
It's will to live. Your torturing it with a water canon was the last drop in it's long battle with depression.

[Anonymous No.2746083]

>>2744944
Thanks

[Anonymous No.2746198]

THIS THREAD DOES NOT BUMP

Post questions to >>2746196

That is all. Thank you for your support.

[Anonymous No.2746267]

>foldable fixie bike
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1519517312/fubi-fixie-transform-your-bike-into-a-folding-bike
how difficult would it be to make this myself