/3dpg/ 3D Printing General

[Anonymous No.2707888]

Blown-out Brassholes Edition
Last Thread: >>2701667

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>Calibrate your printer.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [32/03/90 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, these are just popular and available options.
All controversial printers and brands have been removed from the list for your safety.
DIY: https://reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg

>Where can I get things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://printables.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://cults3d.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCAD
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

Legacy Pastebin (Last updated 1064 days ago): https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
#328

[Anonymous No.2707895]

First for me buying a P1P to print and build a DIY simracing gearbox that I used for 10 minutes and took of my rig because it was shit and never used my printer again.

[Anonymous No.2707898]

>>2707895
ya can't fix stupid

[Anonymous No.2707901]

>>2707898
I didn't ask for any advice on fixing you.

[Anonymous No.2707903]

Are the Bambu shills onto something or are Bambu printers overhyped?

[Anonymous No.2707904]

>>2707894
>Can you print a ring to go on them to solve that issue?
Start by going to Bambu's site and read the description for the product you're interested in before you start asking questions about it.

[Anonymous No.2707906]

>>2707904
I don't trust Chinese companies to tell me the truth

[Anonymous No.2707911]

>>2707903
I like mine.
It's very entertaining to watch people complain about the printers.
There was a thread about someone saying they were shit when it was revealed:
1. They were printing in PVA PLA
2. They put in the magnetic bed fucking sideways
3. They didn't take off all the packing tape
It happens so much it's funny.

[Anonymous No.2707915]

>my printer shakes the entire table and things fall off it.
well, time to build a dolly for this stupid thing. It's going on the ground.

[Anonymous No.2707918]

>>2707903
They are overhyped, neraly any core xy printer can achieve the same speeds, the lidar is a gimmick, acost is palatable. But they're not a bad printer if you can look past the locked software.
The AMS is perhaps one of the best value solution to a problem that only a tiny fraction of people had.
I still maintain that for technical materials qidi's current line are the best performing for their price, and can operate over lan without complaining about the lack of an internet connection.

[Anonymous No.2707923]

>>2707903
I bought a p1s with hardened steel extruder and hotend
it is a way better printer than my old ender 3 v2 and the only failed print so far after about 200 hours was purely user error.
If you aren't a poorfag or freetard (i run mine in LAN only mode) they are worth it. Im sure there are other printers that are worth it too.
they work especially well with bambu's first-party filament but i've put other filaments through it without much issue

[Anonymous No.2707924]

>>2707903
>>2707923
also i mainly only bought it to print in CF and GF filled nylons (making guns) so your mileage may vary when it comes to anything else. But with the upgraded parts it does CF Nylon extremely well

[Anonymous No.2707926]

>>2707923
>i run mine in LAN only mode
what about the slicer? Is the slicer not cloud based? Can you access the printer via just a regular browser and the local ip address?

[Anonymous No.2707927]

>>2707926
I slice on bambu studio, export the gcode to an SD card, then put that in the printer.

[Anonymous No.2707939]

>>2707927
So its not on the network at all then? Can you block it from accessing the internet but still use something like orcaslicer to send prints over?

[Anonymous No.2707940]

>>2707939
I think you can, i've never set it up though

[Anonymous No.2707943]

>>2707939
The slicer is my concern. In your router, a quickj and simple trick is to put the printer into a parental control mode that is never allowed to access the internet.
I think it would still work, but the cloud dependency of the slicer and to some extent the printer have been discussion points before. I have not owned one and have only briefly interacted with one, though I did enough research about six months ago to decide I could just keep my current machines and wait for some other plug and play to come along, and so far it appears to have come in the shape of my qidi. I'm not shilling qidi, do not get one if you need customer support, need the community to make your upgrades plug and play for you, or if you expect a long lasting machine with continued support. Also don't if you expect to purchase the correct nozzle size... fuckers.

[Anonymous No.2707944]

>>2707943
I've seen a few people say the Qidi while cheaper has issues. My print files should not be leaving my home network to go to the printer though thats some crazy shit

[Anonymous No.2707952]

>>2707944
>My print files should not be leaving my home network
I'm not sure that's the case, at this point before you make any more assumptions do ask around on more competent forums than this if that's a concern of yours. I'm only repeating what other schizos have stated without being refuted on previous threads.

[Anonymous No.2707954]

>>2707952
Had a look around and it looks like they eventually updated the firmware so you can do everything that matters in LAN mode. Including looking at the camera

It doesn't work with the phone app though when in LAN mode. Not really a big deal as if I'm in my house printing I'll be at my PC anyway. If I did need to leave while the printer was on I could always remote into my PC to look at the camera

[Anonymous No.2707970]

>>2707954
>If I did need to leave while the printer was on I could always remote into my PC to look at the camera
then why are you being a schizo about cloud shit if you log in using the cloud
If someone wants in your shit, they're going to get in your shit.

[Anonymous No.2707973]

>>2707970
>so just give them your shit on a silver platter.

[Anonymous No.2707987]

>>2707973
Just realize you are not important.
My shit is worthless, they'd just take the silver platter.

[Anonymous No.2708012]

>>2707954
>>2707970
>>2707987
An exposed printer is an extra attack vector with little to no advantage. Lateral movement is the biggest risk. Printers and PCs share data all the time and your internal home network is, unless you really know what you are doing, likely insecure.
Buy a cheap pfsense router, get your printers MAC address, block outbound traffic from it, and set up a vpn connection to it. Connect remotely with a secure protocol.

[Anonymous No.2708017]

What's the cheapest filament in USA?

[Anonymous No.2708019]

>>2708017
The PETG you make yourself from recycled 2 liter bottles

[Anonymous No.2708039]

>>2708019
>costs $100 in work hours, electricity and starting investment in your way
heh, nothing perssonnel

[Anonymous No.2708042]

>>2708039
$100/kg*

[Anonymous No.2708043]

Shitpost of the day: water block for a peltier module

[Anonymous No.2708093]

>>2707943
>>2707939
>>2707927
>>2707926
>>2707923
You can use orca slicer and retain the camera function and sending files/operating the printer through the slicer, while having it set in LAN mode. You have to connect it once to the bambu gay slicer first with your initial setup. Then you set it in LAN mode, back up your bambu studio plugins folder, uninstall that shit, recreate the folder path and put the plugins back in. It's two dll files that will allow orca to connect to the printer (their own plugin didn't work last time I tried months ago, unless it was fixed). You don't log into any accounts in orca, you just connect via wifi. Can't confirm if these dlls are viruses or not, but given that I don't connect to a cloud and any accounts, and my printer is in LAN mode, maybe I'm good.

[>>>/tg/3dpg No.2708094]

>What printer should I buy?
>SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg
we havent updated out printer guide since august 2021 so please stop sending retards our way and instead direct them towards reddit. thanks.

[Anonymous No.2708103]

>>2708043
Cool stuff anon, did you test it already for leakage?

[Anonymous No.2708104]

>>2708043
>"with a 3D printer you can print anything!!!1!11!"
Plastic is shit thermal conductor, go huff paint somewhere else.

[Anonymous No.2708106]

>>2707970
>Why do you want to use this device you own offline
>Why do you want this thing that could start a fire connected to the internet/cloud
>Why don't you want to rely on Bambu's servers being up to print
>Why don't you want your models that aren't public that you are currently using to make money leaving your private network

[Anonymous No.2708110]

>want to check measurements of a small simple model (from some random indian - not sure if relevant) on thingiverse
>import in TinkerCAD
>it's all fucked up, missing faces
>practically impossible to take measurements anyway because it's apparently a toy and not an actual CAD solution
>download FreeCAD
>it's another episode of autists know better than professional ux designers
>download Fusion360
>it seems OK, except for the cloud bullshit
So what are people actually using?
I used Inventor for designing some parts when I was at uni. Seemed pretty good to me as well.

[Anonymous No.2708111]

>>2708110
Most people seem to use Fusion360's free hobbyist license

[Anonymous No.2708112]

>>2708106
*yawn*
Anon, your models are not so complicated they can't be replicated by sight alone.
Your spending time and money on something that doesn't matter.
But go on, keep pretending you're important.

[Anonymous No.2708114]

>>2708110
The /t/ard approved choice is Solidworks. It's a powerful CAD but with user friendly UI.

>>2708111
5 Autodesk coins have been deposited into your account

[Anonymous No.2708115]

>>2708112
>Your spending time and money on something that doesn't matter.
But running the printer in LAN mode is free and doesn't cost any extra time, and I can still print when the servers go down

[Anonymous No.2708121]

>>2708103
Yeah, I tested it and just sitting there filled with water it doesn't leak at all.
With water flowing it does leak at higher flow rates, the pressure buildup is enough to push tiny amounts of water through the gaps.
That being said this was printed with my usual print settings, so I guess with a slightly higher flow% I can close the gaps and make it completely watertight.
Also needed is to add some mounting brackets to the model so I can actually attach it to something.

On the actual cooling performace, I ran the peltier at 12V with cold tap water running through it (aprox. 15C). Cold side got as low as -28C.
With an air cooler I could get -7C at 5V but 12V would result in too much heat buildup so the cold side heated to above freezing.
Considering everything I'd say it's working rather well.

[Anonymous No.2708122]

>>2708110
Fusion 360.

[Anonymous No.2708123]

>>2708114
>The /t/ard approved choice is Solidworks. It's a powerful CAD but with user friendly UI.
But I heard they send angry letters to their users.

[Anonymous No.2708128]

>>2708123
Block that shit in firewall my dude.

[Anonymous No.2708130]

3d printing is for pussies get a milling machine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ok43dZAVdQM

[Anonymous No.2708134]

>>2708121

Different anon here, have you tried printing it in ABS, and then brush acetone on the inside to help weld the layers together and seal it up more or use an epoxy resin as a water tight layer

[Anonymous No.2708142]

>>2708134
>have you tried printing it in ABS
It is ABS.
>brush acetone on the inside to help weld the layers together and seal it up more or use an epoxy resin as a water tight layer
No, I just wanted to see how it performs straight out of the printer. The leaks are very small, almost like it's sweating than an actual stream of water coming out so I hope they can be resolved with print settings alone.
I don't want to use smoothing or resin because it adds extra post processing time.

[Anonymous No.2708143]

>>2708043
Wait, does this actually work? Does the plastic allow enough heat through to cool effectively?

[Anonymous No.2708152]

>>2708143
If he's running water directly against the hot side of the peltier I don't see why it wouldn't. Of course, there are other ways this can fail like plastic melting or the print not being water tight.

[Anonymous No.2708195]

>>2708094
Y'all love getting resin all over your balls, we're gonna send resin people with resin questions over to you to spread resin on their balls.

[Anonymous No.2708197]

>>2708143
>>2708104

I don't think you understand what you're looking at. The plastic doesn't have to move heat, at all. The plastic forms a chamber on one side of the Peltier plate, fluid running through it will be in direct contact with the concealed side of the plate, while the exposed side can be affixed to whatever you want to interact with.

[Anonymous No.2708199]

>>2707918
multi material is diamond tier.

[Anonymous No.2708200]

>>2708195
you sound like you play a banjo and fuck your uncle

[Anonymous No.2708201]

>>2708200
Woah now, I'm not the one spreading cancerous goo on my testicles and making little figurine toys at home.

[Anonymous No.2708203]

>>2708201
thats because you're obviously the catcher in your incestious relationship. now be a good girl and extrude yourself a big fat dog cock

[Anonymous No.2708207]

>>2708152
>>2708197
Bruh if it were that simple everyone would be doing it and we wouldn't pay out the ass for water blocks machined out of aluminium or copper.
Just face it the dude is a retard or b8 and you fell for it.

[Anonymous No.2708217]

>>2708112
Chinkoid moment

[Anonymous No.2708227]

>>2708017
>>2708039
if you're going to be faggot about it the cheapest filament in the USA is in the Sacramento California Best Buy, where you can load up an entire cart of spools and walk the fuck out like a nigger thus making it 0¢/kg limited only by what you can fit in a shopping cart and push home.

[Anonymous No.2708229]

I don't really like to admit it but this has been the most useful print I've made so far. The previous bastard of a tenant stole the tp holder when he moved out and it was really satisfying just printing one

[Anonymous No.2708230]

>>2708229
>he buys scented tp

Idiot.

[Anonymous No.2708232]

>>2708230
hey it was on sale smells nice

[Anonymous No.2708235]

>>2708229
>Piece of plastic with little crevices for bacteria to grow in in a bathroom instead of a proper tp holder
Textbook landlord behaviour

[Anonymous No.2708236]

>>2708235
just disinfect it properly regularly as you would do with every other surface in the bathroom. Or I could reprint it from this (copper glycolate filled) filament.

[Anonymous No.2708239]

>>2708236
>just disinfect it properly regularly as you would do with every other surface in the bathroom.
no you fucking dipshit, take a second look at EVERY OTHER SURFACE in the bathroom and notice they are not porous. Not at all. The problem isn't disinfecting it's that you cannot effectively disinfect a porous surface.

I'd vapor smooth abs before buying that meem PLA.

[Anonymous No.2708246]

>>2708239
Dude it's a toilet paper holder, not a tray for surgical tools. It's fine.

[Anonymous No.2708249]

>>2708239
just dont wipe your ass with your uncovered hand and smear shit on the tp holder and you're fine

[Anonymous No.2708283]

>>2708239
Dude you're way too paranoid about that stuff. Shit bacteria doesn't kill you so easily, as demonstrated by the fact that we have to share this spinning rock with a billion street shitters.

[Anonymous No.2708306]

>>2708207
The reason no one does it is because it uses a fuck load of power for cooling.

[Anonymous No.2708327]

>>2708142
>I don't want to use smoothing or resin because it adds extra post processing time.

Which is quicker than figuring out what settings would resolve that, especially when filament has moisture and leaves gaps spending 5-10 minutes brushing acetone is quicker then spending hours for x amount of days perfecting it, which is a waste of time when the next thing you start printing needs settings adjusted and now you nullified those previous settings.

idk people trying to avoid post processing is a different breed.

[Anonymous No.2708380]

>>2708207
Water blocks for peltiers generally:
>can use the existing surface of the peltier in direct contact with the water
>are in places where a small leak isn’t the end of the world
Water blocks for conputers generally:
>cannot have water in direct contact with the ICs, and so need a thermally conductive and mechanically rigid layer between the water and ICs that can be firmly clamped to the ICs without deforming
>definitely cannot tolerate leaks so need to be well sealed
Hence why PLA cap is fine in one instance but machined copper/aluminium is the standard in the other instance.

Also using just the flat side of the peltier limits surface area somewhat, having it coupled to a heat sink with a higher surface area would likely improve its efficiency, assuming thermal transfer is a significant bottleneck.

[Anonymous No.2708422]

>>2708327
>idk people trying to avoid post processing is a different breed.
I'm very much a novice and I personally don't mind it so far (In fact, I like having more personal involvement in the creation process of things) but I assume some people like the idea of having something that can teleport shit from their screen to reality and not have to worry about the nitty gritty of it all. There tends to be that sort of split with most up and coming technologies

[Anonymous No.2708439]

Is having a window open and having a fan blow air towards it sufficient ventilation for 3D printing? While wearing a mask of course whenever in the room. Also, do you definitely need one of those UV spinny things for curing?

[Anonymous No.2708443]

>>2708439
get a voc sensor if you're worried
your mask better be a proper chemical respirator otherwise it's doing fuck-all

[Anonymous No.2708454]

>>2708443
It's that necessary, huh? Better change my filters then

[Anonymous No.2708472]

How much more of a pain in the ass is it set up UART communication for Klipper than just using the USB cable? And is there actually a benefit beyond looking nice?

[Anonymous No.2708477]

>>2708439
>UV spinny things
somebody please tell me what this is

[Anonymous No.2708479]

>>2708477
a turntable that spins under UV light. think microwave but for light. aka resin curing station.

[Anonymous No.2708480]

>>2708142
>almost like it's sweating
prints are essentially porous unless you use vase mode. I'm not sure settings can help, even if you visually close all gaps physically they are still not going to be water-tight without some additional post processing.

that said there was an anon many moons ago who was FDM printing clear filament that looked like glass by going super slow and somewhat hot. I don't think he ever shared his settings, but it was far outside the norm. doing something like that might fuse things enough to close those micro-gaps, but you're probably going to have to do the experimentation.

[Anonymous No.2708482]

bambu bros why does orca say it's going to use the next spool (with identical settings) but then doesn't? what I can find by googling is "it just works!" and it sure as shit looks "on", there is no toggle I can find, and before it ran out it showed A3 and A4 in the AMS window which were set to identical filament. I was specifically testing this as my spool was near empty. Seriously, how tf do I make it auto swap to another AMS slot?

[Anonymous No.2708484]

>>2708472

if the controller board already has serial on header pins that klipper also has, then I would recommend it, it doesn't have serial by id though, and would just call
>dev/ttys0

for example.

my kingroon kp3s, I had to remove an smd component and bridge these two pads so I can use one of the connectors for my serial connection, the other port was an available header for E1 motor driver.

which printer are you wanting to do this to? or what controller board you be trying this on?

[Anonymous No.2708486]

>>2708327
>Which is quicker than figuring out what settings would resolve that
M8 I printed couplers for compressed air hoses that are airtight at 8 bars. I'm not new to making shit leak free. I know I have to jack up the flow% by around 5%. This was just a test to see if my idea works and how well it works with the usual print settings.

>idk people trying to avoid post processing is a different breed.
I wasted around 2 hours trying to remove all the supports from inside so that's why I don't want to bother with any additional processing. I need 8 of these so I'll be wasting enough time as is.

[Anonymous No.2708494]

>>2708482
I see only a4 in that auto refill tab

[Anonymous No.2708504]

>>2708480
>that said there was an anon many moons ago
He was in just the previous thread, if it's the same Anon we're talking about.
>>2707630

[Anonymous No.2708507]

>>2708482
>he believed his lies

[Anonymous No.2708511]

>>2707888
>trips
>>2707431
sauce/stl?

[Anonymous No.2708520]

>>2708511
Pretty certain that's the bust of helios. This is mine, although I'm not sure what they did to produce that result. STL: https://thangs.com/designer/voldenissen/3d-model/Bust%20of%20Helios-15705

[Anonymous No.2708521]

>>2708520
>>2708511
durrr attaching images is hard

[Anonymous No.2708524]

>>2708521
voxel reconstruction of mesh. looks like shit

[Anonymous No.2708525]

>>2708439
Considering you mention UV spinning thing. Then you want a fume hood as I assume you are buying a resin printer. All activated carbon air purifiers do is get rid of the smell. The VOC (the bad shit) still ends up in the air

[Anonymous No.2708550]

>>2708521
smooth looks better than the minecraft version

[Anonymous No.2708570]

Damn multicolour prints with the AMS really ramps up print time

[Anonymous No.2708579]

Bros, what happened here?
This was printed standing, like in the picture, with supports. I assume the mess at the top (supposed to be 1.7 mm hex...) is due to insufficient cooling. What about the mess above where the supports were, and the oddly tapered bit in the middle?

It was printed on an i3 mk3s+, with more or less standard settings, I assume, based on print speed (I didn't set it up personally).

[Anonymous No.2708581]

>>2708579
Print in two parts and superglue it together. It should fix any issues with orientation.

[Anonymous No.2708582]

>>2708581
>>2708579
Also, either slow down your print or increase cooling.
What does the cooling tab in your slicer look like?

[Anonymous No.2708585]

>>2708579
your z-top gap is too big. you can do PLA on PETG or vice versa to do a 0mm but I usually find setting it from default .2 to .1 helps a ton in those situations.

[Anonymous No.2708587]

>>2708484
Ender 3 with the 4.2.7 mainboard using an orangepi zero 2w

[Anonymous No.2708588]

>>2708581
If you own a 3d printer I hope santa comes and takes it away. I'm not kidding, you should not be allowed to post, you don't even make the bar for stupid.
1. don't cut the piece on a surface
2. flat cuts have no strength
3. you're dealing with meltable plastic and suggesting glue
4. superglue is garbage
5. there are a dozen better ways to separate the pieces so they are strong clean and need no glue
6. all that's unnecessary with slicer settings and calibration
7. failure is learning unless you're a fucking retard who's first reaction is what you posted
etc, etc.

[Anonymous No.2708592]

>>2708581
>>2708588
I see people recommending printing similar parts horizontally (the 1.7 mm hex bit obviously being the most problematic), at least partially to aid in cooling?
>>2708582
Yeah, I'll have a look at the cooling settings next time. I would assume they were left at default, but I don't know. It was printed at a makerspace, so I can't just check.
>>2708585
>z-top gap
The gap between the supports and the actual print or? Contact Z in Prusa speak?
This is PLA btw.

[Anonymous No.2708600]

>>2708592
the strength is along the printlines, so yes, axles should be horizontal because
≡≡≡≡≡≡≡≡≡
over
≡
≡
≡
≡
≡

[Anonymous No.2708604]

>>2707888
What's the best site for NERF parts?
>years of experience with Fusion360
>CAD/CAM/Engineering
Now hobby.
If I designed a few parts for NERF BLASTERS from scratch, kept the designs to myself without using anyone's parts as a base what's the best place to sell them internationally?
Curious.
Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.2708605]

>>2708588 nta, but consider the part you imbecile. Look at how tiny it is compared to the shaft and other components, this part would not fail along a glued line on the alrgest surface area. The parts is weak as all fuck on the thin shaft anyways. On something this small, attempting to introduce a peg/locating feature is counterproductive here. If he really wanted a strong part, he'd print it either horizontally or at an angle, but that introduces supports that might damage the fit and finish.
>>2708592 Upload the part to litterbox, I'll have a look later tonight.

[Anonymous No.2708606]

>>2708604
BTW owned a Prusa lookalike I made from scratch, in wood then bootstrapped to PLA.
So been in the 3dprinter world for years.... but been offline for a couple of years.
>Normally printed in ABS and PLA a few years back but TPU appeals to me as something interesting
Sorry for missing this out.

[Anonymous No.2708608]

>>2708588
>print in ABS
>paint surfaces with ACETONE
>press together
>move on with life

[Anonymous No.2708609]

>>2708605
>this part would not fail along a glued line on the alrgest surface area
with superglue. which literally falls apart from temperature and time. yeah no, sorry F for brains.

[Anonymous No.2708610]

>>2708608
whole other story and you still shouldn't just slice on a plane dipshit. also slurry your acetone before you dumb post next time.

[Anonymous No.2708612]

>>2708610
?
Trying to help the cunt.
Why scream at me in your peevish voice, Mr Angry?
I just got here.
Can I speak to your supervisor?

[Anonymous No.2708613]

>>2708588
Do you really think that it would break along the orange line I placed over any of the other tiny cross sections? Anon is already having issues with detail at this size, do you really think that he'll be able to get any kind of feature in that cut?
>>2708609
>Temperature.
It's pla, anon.
>time
wut?

[Anonymous No.2708614]

>>2708610
Why is this nigger so angry?
Anyone?

[Anonymous No.2708615]

>>2708600
That was my initial thought as well. I may be wrong, but wouldn't it matter less on a part this small?
The argument for printing vertically was that the round parts would come out nicer..
>>2708605
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4921076

[Anonymous No.2708620]

>>2708614
A false assessment of his own skillset/knowledge and the notion that everyone around him is stupid, while he fails to asses the particular situation at hand.
Or just a schizo, like the shithead that's spamming /pcgb/ threads over on /g/.

[Anonymous No.2708623]

>>2708615
I s a 0.4mm the smallest nozzle that you have?
Either way, bring down your temps. I'd go as far as using 190C for pla on an item that small, and use your fan on the "always on" setting.
This part would also benefit from custom supports that you snap off then file down.
What slicer are you using?

[Anonymous No.2708628]

>>2708612
>help
you aren't tho.

>>2708613
with superglue and PLA? yes I do. I don't know what your experiences with super glue are or how you've used it but it's not actually good for 3d printing. Both cold and time will destroy super glue. Cold is a temperature. Superglue is best for non-porous surfaces anyway.

>>2708614
because I'm sick of stupid fucks who can't even understand when they're wrong. you don't have to respond with shitty advice I mean none of you fucking smooth brained posters have even considered KEYING the cut in some way so it auto aligns no matter how many times I say cutting on a plane is bad. You literally are fucking imbeciles and don't realized it.

>>2708620
Project much? Spell often? God damn I hate fucking retards like you so much.

[Anonymous No.2708629]

>>2708628
You're wrong.

[Anonymous No.2708630]

>>2708623
now this is some actual decent god dammed advice.

[Anonymous No.2708632]

>>2708629
believe whatever helps you cope snowflake.

[Anonymous No.2708633]

>>2708630
You're seething.

[Anonymous No.2708634]

>>2708579
the squiggly squire is cooling issue. reduce speed or increase minimum layer time.
lots wrong here tho. does your printer ever produce good prints? very low end printers from 5 years ago printed like that.
slice it like >>2708581 said with prusaslicer pegs

[Anonymous No.2708636]

>>2708634
nta
>prusaslicer pegs
interesting. those aren't unique to prusaslicer, I see them in orca. how good are they, I mean how idiot proof?

[Anonymous No.2708639]

>>2708636
Pegs are pegs, printer tuning and accuracy matters more.
That being said, this part is tiny and with anon already having issues with cooling it really wouldn't work well on any slicer. Flat smooth surface and superglue will do.

[Anonymous No.2708640]

>>2708628
If you've had issues with superglue you're probably doing something wrong.
>https://youtu.be/dGE509zjf7E?t=670
The plastic is liable to fail before the adhesive.

[Anonymous No.2708648]

>>2708640
Isn't this generally the same thing with wood and wood glue, assuming you've properly jointed it or planed it or done whatever autistic woodworker shit?

[Anonymous No.2708650]

>>2708623
>Is a 0.4mm the smallest nozzle that you have?
I'll ask next time.
>Either way, bring down your temps. I'd go as far as using 190C for pla on an item that small, and use your fan on the "always on" setting.
Will do.
>This part would also benefit from custom supports that you snap off then file down.
Is that relevant if I print it horizontally as well?
>What slicer are you using?
PrusaSlicer.
>>2708634
>increase minimum layer time
Will keep that in mind, but I guess it won't really matter if I print it horizontally.
>does your printer ever produce good prints
I don't know. It's not mine but in a makerspace.

I'm not sure if the hex part will print properly vertically either way, and this is the most important part as it slots into a scroll encoder. Can't quite wrap my head around details in xy and z plane..

[Anonymous No.2708652]

>>2708650
>I print it horizontally.
If you print horizontally you won't get a round profile.

[Anonymous No.2708681]

>>2708652
I'm not too worried about that since it's just a scroll wheel for a remote. Looks OK in the slicer too?

Main concern is really the small hex shaft as it needs to fit the scroll encoder properly.

[Anonymous No.2708682]

>>2708681
You're going to need supports and sand paper.
looks as ok as that part possibly can.

[Anonymous No.2708683]

>>2708682
Yeah, that was just for visualization.

[Anonymous No.2708696]

>>2708579
What the fuck is wrong with the top shaft, how did it even print like that? The layers are angled up like 6 higher on one side
There's something seriously fucked up about your printer if that's what's coming out

[Anonymous No.2708700]

>>2708696
Good morning, friend.

[Anonymous No.2708736]

What setting do I change in OrcaSlicer so it doesn't do this weird wall and just does infil only like PrusaSlicer?

[Anonymous No.2708739]

>>2708736
>Jude

[Anonymous No.2708741]

>>2708739
Whoops, made it for a family member. Kids are obsessed with Prime

[Anonymous No.2708760]

>>2708736
After a bit more messing and clicking stuff I found the only do 1 wall on top layer option was causing this

[Anonymous No.2708761]

>>2708736
the colors are the line type, yellow is inner wall. if you set the color scheme to line type instead of filament in the usage report after slicing it will tell you what each of the colors are.

i don't know how to get rid of it, not sure why you need to. if it's not just a raw logic prusa vs. everyone else then it might be hitting at a partial layer and orca is deciding it warrants a line. but that's random speculation.

[Anonymous No.2708764]

>>2708761
>i don't know how to get rid of it, not sure why you need to
It was for purely aesthetic reasons as its a keyring. So the top surface being even and uniform is important. However I did find the culprit >>2708760

[Anonymous No.2708772]

>>2708764
ah it looked like the name was raised. I've been working on poker chips and the top and bottom outlines don't match, I'll have to look into that.

[Anonymous No.2708774]

quick question about making an explosion animation in fusion
When selecting the pieces, the program selects the whole model instead of the individual models. How do fix that

[Anonymous No.2708779]

>>2708772
Yeah its raised because I currently have an Ender 3. But I'm thinking of being dumb and getting a P1S with AMS so I've been messing with Orca (desu even with I think the raised text looks better too). How did you do the flat surface multicolour stuff of the chips? Does Orcaslicer let you import an SVG or something? I've not messed with any advanced stuff yet

[Anonymous No.2708792]

>>2708779
Orca has primitives but I find them useless as they are very low poly. Essentially I make embedded objects in Fusion360 coincidental in space. When you import them they will be coincidental in the slicer and if you make them an assembly the slicing won't self intersect. Then you can color each stl in the object hierarchy (right click change filament).

If you break apart the assembly you can height range color just that one piece to save color switches, for example you can keep JUDE the same color as the tag and just paint 1 layer with the height range paint tool. Since I have the numeral and the edge pips unioned with the thin hidden disk (you can union your letters with hidden geometry to make it 1 stl) I just surface painted (paint bucket) the pips on the prototypes where they don't match.

Just be careful, you can scale arrange and copy paste colored pieces, but if you do some operations (slice) in orca the paint will disappear.

Fusion360 has text in sketches or you can use SVG.

Hope that helps.

[Anonymous No.2708795]

>>2708774
break apart assembly? it sounds like you don't have bodies but an assembly.

[Anonymous No.2708799]

>>2708795
I did make all the bodies in the same file, is that the problem? Im not familiar with fusion, I have mainly used creo parametric

[Anonymous No.2708808]

>>2708799
whats in your tree on the left under bodies?

[Anonymous No.2708809]

>>2708792
So basically to do your chips you've made 6 STL's that fit together? I was hoping I could just dump in a SVG to the slicer to add a logo to something quickly

[Anonymous No.2708810]

>>2708808

[Anonymous No.2708813]

>>2708809
3 each chip, but it's only one way to do it. There is a text tool in Orca you know.

[Anonymous No.2708815]

>>2708813
Text isn't enough for what I wanted to do. Thanks for the info/advice though I appreciate it

[Anonymous No.2708816]

>>2708810
each body should be individually selectable. you can choose the move tool at the top and then select the body to lock on to a point, or move tool then body in the left, or pick the body in the left then the move tool. Clicking the body in the window selects a face so that's not a good way to do it, unless it's after picking the move tool.

The magic of 360 lol.

[Anonymous No.2708820]

>>2708816
I cant, its all the same body

[Anonymous No.2708825]

>>2708820
no that's a component

[Anonymous No.2708828]

I hope we can get a quick race to the bottom in time for holiday sales, I wanna get a good corexy that isn't bambu.

[Anonymous No.2708829]

>>2708825
Well shit

[Anonymous No.2708861]

In PrusaSlicer, does the "default extrusion width" field do anything if all the other fields under extrusion width have explicit values?

[Anonymous No.2708864]

microcenter has an ender 3 v2 for $100 with a coupon
worth picking up as a 3rd printer? already have a cr10 and a resin printer

[Anonymous No.2708890]

man made horrors beyond all comprehension

[Anonymous No.2708909]

>>2708864
If you've ever found yourself wanting to start another print while your current printers are going, then yeah, probably. otherwise, even if it is a good price it really doesn't offer anything new. Put those $100 aside for some other fucktarded project, getting a bag of assorted heatsets, assorted screws, a mini drill, pretty much anything else.

[Anonymous No.2708910]

>>2708587

Is it the stock board or silent mainboard? Well regardless you have a few options. As I suspected the LCD port has serial pinouts on it.
>pic related

I have seen online you can buy a connector for that port, then has a little breakout board for the other pins, i.e. the serial pins, with a connector to keep using the lcd screen. You can look for that adapter if you wish to keep the lcd screen, if you dont use the screen then you wont need the adapter.

also if you power the orange pi from the printer as well, you don't need to connect the 5v pin fromyour board to the controller board. May have to use a bi-directional logic level shifter if orange pi zero 2w sends 5v or whatever.

[Anonymous No.2708943]

>>2708910
4.2.7, the silent one
I got it working with USB, but it would be nice to have it all contained and clean. I figured I could have just used breakout wires to connect them
This mainsail interface is snazzy

[Anonymous No.2708957]

>>2708943

yeah gpio on the orange pi and the headers on the lcd is the most straight forward and easy way. However you would have to reflash the firmware when changing communication. according to the datasheet
>usart3

is the serial on the lcd port. But I am sure if you google klipper setup for that silent board I am sure you will have no problems finding resources.

[Anonymous No.2708958]

Does anyone know what kind of print faults happened here?
all the other 5 sides turn out just fine

[Anonymous No.2708975]

>>2708958
Is that a result of some incredibly poorly configured coasting?

[Anonymous No.2709011]

>>2708239
>what is grout

[Anonymous No.2709012]

how long does it take to learn how to make files of simple cases for small electronics projects?
also, is it worth buying a printer if i just want to print out cases and nothing more? there seems to be decent cheap chinese vendors that print you stuff.

[Anonymous No.2709015]

>>2709012
5-10 minutes, though I've spent at times considerably more than that making models with heatset inserts, locating pins for the boards that I smoosh down with a soldering iron that I can't remember the name for, strain reliefs, cable management, etc.
Here's an example fof a box in fusion360.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYXSJ6EQ9S4
Probably even less in openscad if you're a good typist.

[Anonymous No.2709020]

>>2709012
It's not 5-10 minutes
But its' not like Blender, either.
It's mostly getting measurements and placements.
Like to make a box with no lid, you'll take these steps:
1. Click "Sketch"
2. Select the Top plane (any plane is good but this orients it)
3. Click the "rectangle" button
4. Draw the rectangle
5. You can use a dimension tool to click the sides of the square, and input the length and width (5 inches x 8 inches)
6. You'll click "Extrude", which "pulls" the flat object into 3d. You tell it how much, and in this case it'll be your height. Now you have a solid, 3d object.
7. To make it an open box, you'll click "Shell" and then click the top. This makes it hollow with no top, and then you can also tell it how thick you want the non-hollow part, or the "shell" to be.
And... That's the basics of 3d modeling.
If you want to make holes, you'll:
1. Draw a circle where you want the screw hole to begin. Got an M3 screw? You'll do something between 2.9mm and 3mm diameter
2. Have it extrude, but instead of "Adding" you'll do "remove" which removes solid objects instead of creating them.

I personally use onshape. Uses the online servers power and whatnot so you can run it on anything that plays a youtube video, so I get some cheeky modeling done on my work computer at work.

[Anonymous No.2709036]

>>2709011
sir I'm going to need you to turn in your /diy/ license as you exit the board

[Anonymous No.2709037]

>>2709012
debens on how stoopid you are I guess. what that guy ^^ said but you add and subtract simple shapes to make complex ones, draw on surfaces and extrude. you probably could have found the "shell" command faster than asking the question were you so inclined.

[Anonymous No.2709049]

a based manufacturer gifted me cando and some wood filament samples

[Anonymous No.2709055]

>>2709036
>implying grout is not porous

[Anonymous No.2709056]

>>2709049
when is my fucking filament going to get here

>>2709055
seal it you seal it you seal it you put sealer on it you seal it you fucking dumbfuck

[Anonymous No.2709062]

>>2709055
I see you've never tiled anything (correctly) before, how's school going kiddo?

[Anonymous No.2709078]

Any recommended P1S + AMS printable upgrades/mods you guys would recommend?

[Anonymous No.2709086]

>>2709078
hydra mod
feeder caps (https://www.printables.com/en/model/369815-perfect-fit-bambu-ams-feeder-button-cover-protecto/files))

poop chutes are popular as are ams cover and enclosure cover props. there is a clip that disables the print exclusion zone if you need true 256x256.

thats all the mods I can think of. the feeder caps are actually highly recommended, cut your ptfe tubes a little long because with filament loaded they tuck behind the ams lid curve.

[Anonymous No.2709089]

>>2709062
>>2709056
>sealant magically makes grout non-porous
Ahh, yes, the room temp IQ tradie understanding of physics, my apologies

[Anonymous No.2709090]

CAN bus conversion in progress
With this, the only things left from the original kit will be the frame, bed, display, and control board. Press S to spit on the grave of folgertech.

[Anonymous No.2709094]

>>2709086
Thanks. That hydra looks a little spooky to do considering I need to expose the board. I have seen a mod that lets you easily feed from an external spool though. I'll definitely have to do that as I have a few 250g spools
Also is it easy to take the top glass on/off when the AMS is on top of the printer?

[Anonymous No.2709099]

>>2709089
>t. actual retard

[Anonymous No.2709100]

>>2709099
Owned

[Anonymous No.2709101]

>>2709090
no idea what that is. looks impressive though
what are those corner pieces and bottom made from? laser cut wood?

[Anonymous No.2709103]

>>2709094
you don't have to have the AMS on top in the first place. the glass is not hinged it's just a sheet inset into the top. people like to wedge it for venting, i don't know why you'd vent instead of alter temps but I guess you can reach vitrification of PLA pretty easy through bed temp.

the hydra mod is super easy actually, although it did fuck my RFID boards somehow, not that they matter. I think there is some kind of Y for single spool but just popping the tube and directly feeding into ptfe takes 2 seconds so idk why you'd bother.

[Anonymous No.2709108]

>>2709101
Folgertech FT6; kit from like 4 years ago. The corner pieces are milled out ACM panel. Two thin aluminum sheets with plastic spacing making up the composite panel, I think they're often used in signage. Nice material, poor machining. Look at the top corner pieces, the top hexagon is off from the other three in the pattern. Lmao.

[Anonymous No.2709109]

>>2709103
>but I guess you can reach vitrification of PLA pretty easy through bed temp.
It's very perplexing tho
With a 45°C bed there is little risk of a 40°c chamber
At 35°C bed there is a bigger risk

I think the aux fan on plain PLA has alot to do with it

[Anonymous No.2709110]

>>2709103
If I can do it without popping a tube in and out it just makes it less faff
Have you tried this PEO sheet? The effect it leaves looks cool for printing cases https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005202327012.html

[Anonymous No.2709126]

There is a new meme built plate
The fuck is PEY?

[Anonymous No.2709127]

>>2709126
Fuck knows but it looks fucking cool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_UBsl3luFo

[Anonymous No.2709129]

>>2709127
did I just watch two minutes of someone taking something out a mail envelope then print basic as all fuck pla on it?
What was the point of that?

[Anonymous No.2709131]

>>2709129
Its the only video I could find of it

[Anonymous No.2709133]

>>2709131
So it's just glitter under a pei sheet as far I'm concerned.

[Anonymous No.2709135]

>>2709133
possibly, gives a cool effect though. £5 if you make a new Ali account, worth a try at that price

[Anonymous No.2709139]

>>2709135
I'm one of those masochists that prints just ABS/Nylon/PC blends, I'm not buying another bed unless it genuinely improves adhesion for any of those over pei or have longer life than painters tape I use for nylon.

[Anonymous No.2709142]

>>2709139
Or I fuck up my existing bed, which is quite likely.

[Anonymous No.2709151]

>>2709126
>PEY
They want to give it a cool name like the others: FR4, G10, PEI, kids just love names like that, so now they sell PEO, PET, PEY, H1H, and these come in variants like Circles, Stars, High-Beams, and Lasers. It's marketing wank. The actual materials they're using are Polyolefin and Polyethylene. The microtexture that creates the holographic effect actually contributes to the adhesion, which is pretty neat. They're great for PLA, ABS, and ASA. I don't print PETG because I'm not gay. Fucking terrible experience with Nylon, but others have reported the opposite, ymmv.

[Anonymous No.2709171]

>>2709151
Maybe I'm out of touch but I don't think these random three-character alphanumeric acronyms are "cool names"
If you were optimizing for coolness, why would you pick something so close to PEE

[Anonymous No.2709177]

>>2709094
The AMS is actually really simple once you do the mod. It's mostly plastic, four motors and the control board that's screwed in with 4 screws.
Also no it is not easy to take the glass off with AMS on top of printer, because AMS usually doesn't have anywhere safe-feeling to go.
Most (sample size: me) print an AMS riser that you can take the glass off without having to remove the AMS.

But yeah not many mods really. Just werks, until you get to the AMS.

[Anonymous No.2709179]

I've started a youtube channel to make and share models that's gotten like 10 subscribers that aren't friends/family but I'm scared to be associated with 4chan.
I can never post pictures of my prints or printer here again.....

[Anonymous No.2709181]

>>2709179
Don't post about it here then

[Anonymous No.2709182]

>>2709177
A riser sounds really handy then
>>2709179
Just post different pictures here than the ones you post on socials so they can't be easily googled

[Anonymous No.2709184]

>>2709182
>A riser sounds really handy then
https://makerworld.com/en/models/14025#profileId-14052
This is the one I use. The LED strip insert is kinda particular though. Not all LED strips fit. The one I had is jammed up there in such a way half of the LED is hidden by the plastic.
Recommnedd to print PETG since it can heat up from rising heat.

[Anonymous No.2709185]

>>2709179
Cringe

[Anonymous No.2709186]

>>2709179
Lean into it, enjoy the wave of retarded new subscribers, forget 4chan exists once you pass about 10k subs and start getting significant sponsorships. It's only if you keep being retarded after that point that it becomes a problem. Post a random video from your channel tomorrow, pretend it's not yours, ask a dumb question about it, fa/g/ots do it all the time.

[Anonymous No.2709188]

>>2709184
I've never printed PETG before. How fucked are the fumes?

[Anonymous No.2709189]

>>2709188
they aren't.
Only ABS/ASA gets fumey, but at worst you get a headache if you huff the stuff in a non-ventilated room.
VOC safety for a single 3d printer is overblown and parroted by nannies.
The Isopropyl alcohol is worse they wipe their beds with is worse for them.

[Anonymous No.2709190]

>>2709189
At this point, the most significant concern is microplastics. 3D printers are remarkably adept at shaving off little wisps of plastic into the air, a desktop printer can spit out more airborne microplastics than a commercial injection molding machine. How much of a problem that is is definitely debatable, but it's not like air filters are expensive or complicated.

[Anonymous No.2709191]

>>2709189
>>2709190
If I got a P1S I was planning on printing an adapter to put a dryer hose out the window to vent the plasicy air

[Anonymous No.2709193]

>>2709191
Fuckin' do it. Probably totally unnecessary overkill but who gives a fuck, that's some cheap peace of mind.

[Anonymous No.2709196]

>>2709189
>The Isopropyl alcohol is worse they wipe their beds with is worse for them.
literal brain damage right here

[Anonymous No.2709203]

>>2709196
Go on. Tell me how I'm wrong.
Smell from IPA is stronger.
People in Resin will tell you all the time that standing over it will give them a headache.
I'll be waiting.

[Anonymous No.2709206]

>>2709203
I can't smell this cyanide! It must be fine!

[Anonymous No.2709208]

>>2709206
*yawn*
Fantastic rebuttal, friendo.

[Anonymous No.2709209]

>>2709208
*yawn*
Fantastic rebuttal, friendo.

[Anonymous No.2709213]

What I don't understand is why bambu shilling is so inorganic.
If you look up "Black Friday" on the bambu subreddit, people ask about it every day if not mulitple times a day if there will be a black friday sale.
If you search the same on the prusa3d subreddit, there's only been one thread asking and one passing comment in a month.
This shit is not organic.
It feels like corpo marketing astroturfing being posed as "Teehee im just an average person teehee"
How do I get paid by bambu to shill????????????????????????????

[Anonymous No.2709214]

>>2709203
I felt fucked for hours after cleaning my print bed with that shit and forgetting to put the cap on the bottle
>>2709206
You can
>>2709213
Partly could be shilling, but its also gonna be people hoping for sales as its black friday and that shits expensive. I've posted here hoping they put them on sale but only cos I want to get away from my rubbish Ender 3

[Anonymous No.2709215]

>>2709213
Can it even be comprehended that the most exciting printer in the last few years may have people excited for it?

[Anonymous No.2709216]

>>2709203
I rub my hands and arms in IPA and I get no headache

[Anonymous No.2709218]

>>2709213
Wouldn't it be more reasonable to compare with the creality subleddit or something? (and no, there's no shilling there, I just checked - just a bunch of people with failed prints)
>>2709214
>You can
Not everyone can, you fucking moron.

[Anonymous No.2709229]

absolute newb here. So I placed this cylinder on a square platform, like I wished.
But how do I place it on an angle, so the cylinder is jutting out say at an angle of 15 degrees to the square platform?

this is TinkerCAD btw.

[Anonymous No.2709233]

>>2709229
Nevermind figured it out I think.
But what does it mean by 'Hole'? I want it to be hollow inside but of course for the exterior to be solid plastic.

[Anonymous No.2709235]

>>2709229
>>2709233
Stop using tinkercad, download fusion360, and spare yourself some nightmares.

[Anonymous No.2709237]

>>2709233
stop using tinkercad, try onshape, and create some nightmares

[Anonymous No.2709238]

>>2709218
I don't know if Creality is on the same level as Bambu and Prusa in terms of being lower-maintenance and newbie-friendly.
As for Bambu vs. Prusa, Bambu's subreddit is significantly more active at time of posting (783 vs. Prusa's 257), that accounts for most of the "shilling" diff. More users obviously means more posts, but also it probably also means a worse ratio of enthusiasts to casuals.

[Anonymous No.2709239]

>>2709237
>>2709020
along with these types of instructions.
People use tinkercad because it's supposed to be easy, but outside of making the most basic of shapes, it's just easier using a fuller program.
You'd rotate your cylinder with the "Transform" function, and then make it hollow inside with the "Shell" function.

[Anonymous No.2709245]

>>2709233
Hole means it'll subtract the shape from your model, I believe

[Anonymous No.2709282]

>>2708975
but i didn't enable any coasting in cura
so probably under extrusion or retraction problem, i guess?

[Anonymous No.2709298]

I didn't know it's this bad. Is prusa just left behind by this point?

[Anonymous No.2709327]

>>2709245
hole is a quick way to make holes. it's useful when you want a screw or peg hole but don't want to start with a sketch, draw circle, etc.

[Anonymous No.2709329]

>>2709233
shell is hollow except for 1 side. it's good for complex shapes. hole is not meant for that see above, I mean it will work but bad practice. you need a cylinder which will be subtracted from that cylinder which means starting with a sketch plane and extruding. sometimes you can cut while you extrude with simple or you can make the solid then subtract later.

[Anonymous No.2709330]

it's gonna be alright bros, isn't it?

[Anonymous No.2709332]

>>2709298
Nah
They'll survive just based on not being chinese

[Anonymous No.2709335]

guys?

[Anonymous No.2709338]

>>2709335
Unless you cancel the failed objects, no.

[Anonymous No.2709340]

>>2709338
how do you do that in orca? it's on layer 12/12 so I'm just letting it run but I should probably know.

[Anonymous No.2709349]

>>2709298
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1a2c-qeTQw
Prusabros...

[Anonymous No.2709350]

Damn this looks awful

[Anonymous No.2709353]

>>2709350
Left will be stronger

[Anonymous No.2709359]

>>2709340
you do it from the app, press the three squares with an arrow button

[Anonymous No.2709362]

>>2709298
lmao
his followup video just lays the smackdown on the prusa fanboys who screeched about alpha firmware
they are pathetic.

[Anonymous No.2709371]

>>2709349
Imagine paying $5k for this garbage, spending probably a week trying to fix it, and then having your dogs die from fucking snake bites
Jesus

[Anonymous No.2709373]

>>2709129
>>2709131
>>2709133
>>2709135
>>2709139

It's a holographic diffraction grating you dunces, did you not see that the hologram transfers over to what you print?

Look up holographic chocolate if you don't understand what I'm talking about.

[Sieg heil !NP2jUmGKeo No.2709385]

>>2707895
I’d avoid Bambu if you’re printing shit that isn’t a public avalible design

[Anonymous No.2709462]

>>2709353
and also about 20x faster
dude should get a resin printer if he cares so much about looks

[Anonymous No.2709467]

>>2709462
Turns out appearance isn't the only reason he printed it.

[Anonymous No.2709475]

lmao holy shit this can't be real
This has to be one of you.

[Anonymous No.2709505]

In case you missed it.
L. Shang 3D printed a guided surface to air missile
https://youtu.be/UvcDwSmmxWs?si=JKf3IfkXWEhPx-6W
interesting times are upon us

[Anonymous No.2709539]

>>2709049
ok this wood stuff is cool

[Anonymous No.2709597]

sovol sv06 or elegoo neptune 3 pro
which one to get bros

[Anonymous No.2709598]

I have made so many attempts to fix my prints recently. It used to be worse, but this is my most recent and I still can't figure out what the fuck is wrong. Any advice? I'm using Duramic PLA+ on a Ender 3 V2 inside an enclosure. The corners warp up and I get some minor elephant's foot and I'm losing my mind over this. I bought a new textured print bed hoping it would adhere better, hence the bumpy bottom. I'm losing my fucking mind over this.

[Anonymous No.2709601]

>>2707888
Please redpill me on a Geeetech A20M as the first (and only) printer. Pic related. Planning on using it for decorating, small gifts, plus some utility e.g. replacing broken plastic pieces around the house and workshop. Originally was looking at an Ender 3v2 but then figured that the ability to print in 2 colors and gradients is worth much more than the ~$40 in price I'm seeing. Single-color prints often seem to end up too utilitarian. It also seems worth the filament waste when the goal is to make something look good. I guess one could just paint the things but I'm not really good at that and a result would look less impressive for it.

Has anyone owned it or had the opportunity to play around with it?
Is it really that much effort to keep it operational? I'm not a stranger to fiddling with controls and calibrating and have the patience for it, but some people on the web and in these threads mentioned it being quite a hassle, whereas I've seen Ender3v2 praised for some decent design choices for the price.
Something I haven't seen talked about is whether it can be easily used as a single-color printer when aesthetics isn't the goal, without wasting the filament as one would when doing a 2-color print - does one just load up a single-color schematic, hook up 2 different spools and tells the printer to split them 50/50, or does one of the inputs get shut off and disconnected entirely?
For reviewers, it seems to be a kind of a curious toy they can abandon if something goes wrong but I'd be left with it melting my ass if some part made out passed quality control it shouldn't have and were to keep dripping hot loads all over the prints, while lacking the know-how to identify the problem.

[Anonymous No.2709606]

>>2709598
way too hot for PLA, lower your temps, maybe even remove from enclosure

[Anonymous No.2709607]

>>2709598
>>2709606
just noticed you had your temps under the test print

you should turn off your heated bed and try lowering your nozzle temp by 10c. if you have issues with adhesion, use a glue stick

[Anonymous No.2709615]

>>2709601
See if you can find a version with automatic bed levelling. That just looks like an Ender 3 with an extra extruder

[Anonymous No.2709620]

>>2709335
>>2709330
>Not slicing per object

Sure, you can't fit as many, but they come out so much better and you can correct fuckups like that at lot easier without wasting a ton of time and material.

[Anonymous No.2709671]

>>2709597
depends on what you are looking for. I own a sv06 and it's very apparent that it's an older machine. If you are not gonna print abs (which sucks anyway without enclosure) I would get the creality SE for the same price any day

[Anonymous No.2709680]

Would a Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro be a bad idea?

Presently I have a 10+ year old FlashForge I did a couple upgrades on, but its age shows. I wanted to print the parts to build an MPCNC (going large at 3ft x 4ft so this could be a terrible idea too), and it just can't get the last 3 parts out. The last part of which takes an entire spool, over 24 hours, and just fails every time. The cost of buying the 3D parts is about as much as just buying a new printer so why not.

In its day it was 1200 printer, but the second extruder was never needed or really worked. PEI was added to the bed, no auto-leveling, no adjustment, no filament sensor, no anything so these days it doesn't take much to beat it. I know Ender 3 has been the typical good enough printer with reasonable quality, size, and the basic features you would want. But I saw Elegoo (thought about a resin one of theirs years ago but I don't have the modelling experience for that yet) and the Neptune really seems to pack a punch of what it comes with, speed, and overall seems really nice for similar price.


tl;dr Making an MPCNC old ass printer can't print its parts so in the prince range give or take of a Neptune 4 Pro is it a winner or is their a better option in the ballpark?

[Anonymous No.2709699]

>>2709680
It's not the best, that's about it.
Solid printer for the price.
Expect to work on potential mechanical issues and possible extrusion issues, but meh.

[Anonymous No.2709726]

>>2709699
I'm use to fighting an ancient Flashforge that required every spool change to be dialed into an exact degree and speed to not suck. But I did get it to be fairly easy after a time. Is there something else I should check into? I don't particularly need the gimmicks of higher end printers, would do a Prusa but they seem overpriced for what they are these days, but I'm flexible. I used the last one 10 years so I'm okay spending on it. Though looking back I wish I had spent less and just upgraded to a newer printer more often given improvements happened fast and trickled downward quickly too.

[Anonymous No.2709734]

>>2709615
Yes, it does have 2 extruders to 1 nozzle. Reviewers call it an unusual and interesting solution. I reckon it may be the one affordable 2-color printers. A quick lookup shows some people making custom builds out of their Ender 3's but I'm not sure that all it takes is an dual-extruder and a firmware update. Well, as long as I can get it off a chinese website I'd rather take an Ender 3 too, the people reviewing A20Ms aren't too fond of that bed in general, it's not that easy to adjust and has an unusual dimensions or something.

[Anonymous No.2709804]

>>2709699
Does it just not add enough over an Ender 3 to justify it? Or just that much less reliable than one. Looked like it was fast as fuck, but in that way of you shouldn't run it that fast, but could reliably run it still faster than most. In that way of some will say 180 but you can really do 90 without it going to shit but Neptune shows 500mm speeds and seems to be able to pull off around 200 without fuck ups.

[Anonymous No.2709843]

>>2709620
>by object
>makes a 4 hour print a 70 hour print
yeah no thanks. and yes I laid it out to see. you get 12 or less per sheet, 7 sheets and 10+ hours a sheet. It cost me 50¢ in filament and 1.5 hours to reprint the ones that failed.

[Anonymous No.2709864]

So with my bambu x1 carbon I got a cold plate that is a sticker on metal, the obverse says hot plate. The included PEI plate was just a sticker, and there is a second sticker that is another cold plate.

I've been printing exclusively on the cold plate with glue stick, the one time I used the hot plate side it failed. I've also starting using the hot plate settings but the cold plate magnetic surface even if I'm just printing PLA. I still use glue stick but a lot less.

If I want to get away from the glue stick should I do something with the PEI plate or the replacement cold plate sticker? What's the intended use of the PEI sticker? I was disappointed it was just a sticker and not a separate plate. I'm just sick of the glue stick and losing the occasional print anyway.

Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.2709881]

>>2709804
Auto bed leveling is simply better.

[Anonymous No.2709885]

>>2709881
Anything worth it in the 200-400ish range? Tempted to go high end but seems like a few years later the high end becomes the middle or lower and past that price point the parts I would print I could just buy instead. Years ago I swear there was a guide here that gave best couple/alternatives in a range and what to expect to get at each price level, but damned if I can find it.

[Anonymous No.2709894]

>>2709885
it's not a race. being reduced to the "middle" tier with a quality machine doesn't matter to anyone but the no printer fags who cry about everything anyway. I got completely cucked by the a1 mini at 1/3 the price of my printer but I don't care because I've used the shit out of it for the last 11 months and I'd rather have the bigger bed anyway. Meanwhile my F tier first printer has completely fallen out of use, there is just no point to setting it up and continuing to use it. It's just a dust collector now, even though it's perfectly functional still. idk, I'd focus on quality of life first if I was going multiple printers because if you need multiple printers running you want them running, not needing maintenance.

[Anonymous No.2709907]

>>2709864
Turn up the heat to 65C on the bed and turn off AUX with PEI. Cold Plate with glue is meant for cooler settings.

[Anonymous No.2709908]

>>2709907
>turn off AUX
what does this mean? chamber temp?

[Anonymous No.2709909]

>>2709908

[Anonymous No.2709915]

>>2709894
I'm not sure what you are getting at. I've not heard of anything just falling apart unless it's a defective unit or a brand that sells clones of clones junk. I don't mind putting in money for quality but nearly anything is a huge step up for me so I do care about value.

My old printer was in the barely out of diy days so I'm fairly good at tearing it down and putting it back in a small amount of time.. It gathers dust only because it's at the end of what it physically can do. It gets so much z wobble and ringing it has to go slow and has so many failure points for printing that anything long is just too likely to fail. If a eat enough rolls to errors I may as well buy a new printer at this point. We use to have some go tos at different ranges for decent prints and what the must haves are vs the nice to have a in features.

Like auto leveling which the Neptune has seems very valuable as somewhat whose printer predates the concept. But say wi-wifi doesn't mean much to me because I have a Pi running astro print to connect. Last I looked it was Enders and Any cubics and you add some mods, but the landscape has changed and new things are around that may include what use to be additions.

YouTube has also moved into a space of paid review or look what wacky bullshit we did with one instead of real reviews now. It's balls

[Anonymous No.2709933]

>>2709915
my understanding is the current gen of printers is so much better than the last one that it's a no brainer to get a recent one. if you want to use your /diy/ to save money build a voron. it just doesn't make sense to me to buy a manually intensive, feature poor budget printer unless it's your very first and you don't know what you want or need in a printer.

[Anonymous No.2709935]

>>2709933
Neptune 4 doesn't seem feature poor is the thing. The only thing I'm seeing making the jump from 300-400 dollar printers to say 500-600 (Had looked at a bamboo lab in this range which looks awesome but may be more than I can justify in my use) is sound resonance compensation, which is pretty cool, but I'm making hobby cosplay and parts not an industrial prototype. And I'm definitely seeing what you mean in last years vs this years it seems I came along right at a decent jump. Neptune 3 to 4 made so much more stuff standard. Not that I'm stuck on Neptune it just was the first bang for buck I ran across where Enders were sort of feature minimum and seem to still be that. Prusa use to the be the big cheese for features but for their money the Bamboo I don't have to build and get just as much. Trying to see if there are any other contenders or models that are worth an extra few bucks to jump into a much better tier of device is all. Neptune vs Bamboo its almost twice the price and I'm not sure if those things are worth it or not yet. Or if some other challenger should enter the fight.

Its nice to see the landscape like this though with some choices. My old printer is like a 6x6 bed, huge, shitty Z axis, leveling with paper, stock bed was just a sticky pad for glue with no PEI, and it was high end because it was heated, mess of proprietary ass too. But at the time it was high end and there wasn't much else in the class without spending several thousand. Seeing stuff that is a few hundred likely able to crush it is amazing.

[Anonymous No.2709959]

gojjamn it, this is nothing like what my bed leveling looked like before klipper. Glass bed, but it seems like the CRtouch module is going down a lot further before triggering. Is there some config I don't understand? Screenshot of that to follow.

[Anonymous No.2709960]

>>2709959

[Anonymous No.2709980]

>>2709959
i have a printer with both the bltouch and crtouch "newer" module and the newer one sucks balls for me for one i like to do tons of samples and in fast mode it was timing out and head crashing (retracting the probe after a certain time) think i ended up either lowering the probe points or enabling slow mode i cant remember but its shit compared to the bltouch i could try digging up my config for it last time i compiled my firmware if you really care

[Anonymous No.2709991]

>>2709980
Sure, I'd appreciate it

[Anonymous No.2709992]

>>2709991
its a marlin config and about 2yrs old now

[Anonymous No.2710104]

i'm getting back into 3d printing after leaving it for a year because my ender 3 hotend got clogged
i'm now trying to fix it and heating it up and stabbing it with the poker isn't doing anything because it still feels rock solid
the clog looks to be exactly midway down the tube, nowhere near the nozzle
any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.2710134]

Anyone know if the PS1 really gets those 200+mm/s speeds with decent accuracy? It seems like a very feature rich printer for around 600. Granted an 8in build area vs usually 11in when you get to that pricing range, but I'm not sure if that matters in the end.

>>2710104
Is it all metal? If its all steel you can crank the heat very high, tubing breaks down into a neurotoxin at high heat so don't do it if it has any tubing down there. If tubing then replace tubing. Judging by the picture though its metal. If that doesn't work sometimes you have to replace parts.

[Anonymous No.2710153]

>>2710134
>mixing metric and imperial

[Anonymous No.2710163]

>>2710153
Its the unfortunate side effect of growing up in imperial units. Speeds, high temps, and small distances equate in my brain better in metric. Longer distances, higher speeds from things like cars, and objects less than a meter but more than 100cm work better in imperial for me to get how big or small it is. Yes I hate it too. Blame the British they sank the ship bringing a meter stick the US for us to convert, but could be like Canada where everything is like that and you need a flow chart for it. (yes there actually is one for them)

[Anonymous No.2710164]

>>2710163
The British use metric (except for roads)

[Anonymous No.2710174]

>>2710164
This happened in the time of wooden ships and sails, I want to say early 1800s. France was sending us a meter stick to use as a base, guys ship was sunk in Caribbean and the British imprisoned him so it never arrived. British use things other than metric for more than roads, stone system for weight is even worse than imperial. Canada, however is the one with the flowchart. Like distance if its height they use Imperial, if its a long distance they use metric, for work they sometimes use both. Weight is pounds but large objects are kg. etc.

I prefer metric really, but if I have to eyeball shit offhand inches just work for me. Imperial socket wrenches can suck all the dick though. But in any case I'm just trying to find a printer that is good value and has the features you would want in a printer these days. Bambu comes up a lot for being a reasonable priced feature rich Core XY, but it may be overkill for me as a built in camera is neat but fancier than my needs, etc. But if there is something a little larger/cheaper than is sheared down to exactly the features that are needed these days then I'm for it.

[Anonymous No.2710230]

>>2710104
take the block apart the rest of the way, nozzle out, heat break tube out. you can also heat the acupuncture needle and poke around with a hot needle. my guess is heat creep below the heat break tube and taking the nozzle off and pulling out in that direction will work. the block nozzle and heat break tube should all be dirt cheap, so replacing the whole assembly should cost you mostly shipping time.

[Anonymous No.2710231]

>>2710153
t. american

I remember an engineering student asking why tf we were constantly translating units, why engineering even continued to use english units at all in the US and the professor basically said
>do you realize how many jobs this creates?

[Anonymous No.2710232]

>make a model that solves a minor problem
>100 download it
>someone remixes it to combine it with someone else's model
I'm so pleased. People like my stuff!

[Anonymous No.2710238]

finished boardgame pimp for my buddy's game including covered trays.

[Anonymous No.2710242]

>>2710238
Oh that's super nice anon.
Is that wall texture intentional or is your printer having some extrusion woes?

[Anonymous No.2710245]

>>2710242
likely fuzzy skin enabled

[Anonymous No.2710274]

>>2710242
>>2710245
yes fuzzy skin in vase mode. it helps the interference fit because they fit tighter without creating a vacuum so they are also easier to remove.

[Anonymous No.2710286]

>>2710274
oh neat, never tried that feature before.

[Anonymous No.2710376]

I remixed bracket for the k1 webcam and logitech webcam to mount my webcam in my k1 instead of buying the k1 webcam, but problem is the fov is small. May buy a fisheye lens if its still cheaper than buying k1 webcam, though, otherwise ill leave it.

[Anonymous No.2710433]

Someone on local craigslist is selling ender 3 v2 for $150. Is this still decent? I see it on amazon for $180. Not sure if black friday will further drop price.

My goals are: stop gap printer for occasional car parts (threw out my old cheap monoprice printer) and potentially printing voron parts once I get around to building one.

https://lexington.craigslist.org/ele/d/lexington-3d-printer-new-ender-v2/7686845403.html

[Anonymous No.2710434]

Any good free slicers out there? I'm too retarded to learn Blender and I'm tired of fucking with SketchUp 2017 edition.

[Anonymous No.2710436]

>>2710434
If you me modeling software then learn Blender. It does 800 things but you only need like 5. Fusion 360 is super friendly as CAD and can be used free, but they constantly cut shit off it to try to make you buy it and its Autodesk prices. I got real use to it and got good, but they cut out a few things I used. I wish I had just gone with Blender for the start since then there is no chance of someone deciding to fuck it up later.

[Anonymous No.2710437]

I'm printing 2 copies of model A in black and 2 copies of model B in orange on the one plate
Can I make it so it will print both copies of Model A at the same time then move onto doing the 2 copies of model B in the second colour afterwards with Orca Slicer? Or do I need to just print all 4 object sequentially?
>>2710433
I'm sure you can get a new Ender 3 V2 from Microcenter for $99

[Anonymous No.2710440]

>>2707888
I accidentally shorted the heating element wire to either the frame or the other heating element wire while trying to change out the nozzle. The screen no longer gets an image and the stepper motors start stuttering like crazy a couple seconds after I turn it on. Is there any chance of saving the main board? I don't see any black spots anywhere but the main board is definitely the problem because swapping the old board (with noisy drivers) back on fixed it. The printer is an Ender 3.

[Anonymous No.2710445]

>>2710440
Could be that shorting the heater element killed its MOSFET and it’s stopping the power supply from starting properly. Try measuring the supply voltage to see if it gets up to the proper 24VDC, or if it flicks on then off a bunch of times. If this is the case, you’ll need to desolder this FET, or at least disconnect a component in series with it (heating element, output wire, maybe a fuse or jumper wire). A replacement FET should be cheap enough.

Otherwise maybe creality printers are built like shit and you sent 24V through the ungrounded case and to the mainboard via the USB socket or SD slot. This is less likely as I think that voltage would still just get grounded, but knowing creality it’s possible.

[Anonymous No.2710461]

>>2710434
I like Onshape. Full-featured and free.
Web-based.
Your models are indeed public on the free account, but it's hard to find your model as you have to know the name of it or your username.
I've never had a problem with people snatching my stuff.

[Anonymous No.2710465]

>>2710445
considering I don't know what MOSFET is, I'm probably best off just buying a new board. There's only one fuse and it isn't blown. I did a test with nothing plugged in except power and the screen, and I still got no image. One area of the board was getting really hot. I'd upload a pic but 4chan has images blocked from my ip range.

[Anonymous No.2710475]

>>2710437
thanks anon didnt realize that sale is still going on 2 years later

[Anonymous No.2710476]

>>2710475
Its not the same sale, it used to be a regular Ender 3, now its a V2

[Anonymous No.2710482]

>>2710476
It used to be a Pro you son of a bitch, and now it's a V2.

[Anonymous No.2710485]

>>2710482
you bloody bastard bitch fuck you

[Anonymous No.2710543]

>>2710104
blow torch it (probably got that way from a high retraction(need to reduce it for all metal hotends cause of that reason) or just heat it up longer and hotter till and disable the fans till it softens up

[Anonymous No.2710552]

>>2710134
>>2710230
>>2710543
are all 3d printers this finnicky?
i tried heating up the needle and no luck but i haven't tried blowtorching the metal heat break tube itself because its so close to the wires
upon closer inspection, the grooves that the nozzle attaches to on the underside are fully filled with some black gunk so i can't put the nozzle back on either
i don't know what i did wrong and at this point i just feel like selling this thing because i can't be fucked dealing with all these problems
i just wanted something that works out of the box and i should have done my research better before i dived into it

[Anonymous No.2710570]

>>2710552
What model is it?
I've never had one jam that bad. I did have one that clogged its teflon tube many times but that is a pull out and cut a new piece for it situation. Never in the metal itself. Outside of having a nozzle jam like a fucker, but nozzles wear out in time and are cheap.

[Anonymous No.2710586]

>>2710570
just the ender 3 base model i think

[Anonymous No.2710601]

Is ABS used for much these days?

I'm hunting for a new printer and the P1S vs the P1P really only seems to have the additions to make ABS/ASA easier to print with. Back in the day of my old printer which did ABS and PLA and I upgraded it to do PETG, ABS ended up kinda useless for me. PLA printed well, ABS gave ea lot of problems sticking, or warping on one end, etc.And when I did PETG (provided I did the work to find the right temp/speed/fan combo as it needed the most precision) it sort of had all the upsides in print turn out without the horrid poison cloud fumes and bitch of first layer issues of ABS.

I'm trying to figure out what to go for. So far I've got:

P1P
>fast, reliable, easy
>proprietary parts but cheap to replace parts (provided they exist later and don't go all Makerbot on us)
>can get an upgrade kit later if I change my mind

P1S
>upgrade P1P with enclosure and fans

Creality K1 Max
>bigger space than P1P/P1S
>lidar detection like the X1 (is that really a game changer? If something has really reliable first layer it shouldn't fail often anyway I think)
>generic hotends with replacements (this is big but at the same time if the what the end is connected to isn't reliable I could end up replacing a lot more, though some prop guys seem to like)
>but its made by Creality who seem to be shitting the bed these days?

Neptune 4 Plus
>big space
>fast but not CoreXY so can suffer more for it
>cheap as hell can buy other stuff for other projects I'm building

Goals (Props, MPCNC, fun stuff)

>>2710586
Don't feel too bad, yea some types have less problems than others but in the end its a machine with moving parts and heat, shits gonna happen. If its not the tube that's jammed and its in the metal one thing you can do is heat it up to the top of the safe levels and drive filament into it to help push it out. Are you able to unscrew the nozzle?

[Anonymous No.2710607]

>>2710601
>Are you able to unscrew the nozzle?
the nozzle is already off but the threads are filled with some black gunk making it too difficult to put back on
i'll have to clean it somehow

[Anonymous No.2710609]

>>2710552
>i tried heating up the needle and no luck
A hot needle is better than nothing, but I don't think it helps much. It's a tiny piece of metal, its thermal mass is negligible compared to a hot nozzle on one side and a heatsink on the other.
Ultimately it's just a matter of getting a lot of heat into the clog while applying pressure to push it out.

[Anonymous No.2710613]

>>2710601
ABS is a fabulous material for anyone with an enclosed printer. It's cheaper than PLA, you get >10% more volume on a 1kg roll, more heat resistant than PETG, prints beautifully, can be vapor smoothed, what's not to like?

[Anonymous No.2710614]

>>2710613
It's not good for making guns

[Anonymous No.2710629]

>>2710607
Ah may have had temp a little high, that would be burnt filament. If it got in the threads it may not have been on tight to seal well. You can try to burn it off, but I would just spend the 20 dollars for a new nozzle and not have the pain in the ass. Micro Swiss makes solid after market upgrades, I've used them to improve printers or a regular replacement for an Ender 3 is like 5 bucks. If it can wait for a couple days of shipping save yourself the headache.

>>2710613
Its in the same room as my PC, kinda got gassed by it, its much more toxic in fumes. Vapor smoothing loses too much detail over using putty or resin smoothing. Didn't know it was technically more on a roll by weight, though PLA I find is usually a couple bucks cheaper so its about even. Not sure what I would need heat resistance for but that is good to know. Seems its more the choice of functional mechanical parts then, which is outside my scope. I mean more options is more better, but for me I'm doing props so they don't they are gears or working parts and for a CNC assembly PLA is rather hard so its in the design specs.

Pricing on P1P is 600, P1S 700, and K1 Max is 720, maybe I should just get the K1 Max and have it all, but Creality is getting wrecked by user review for bad QA and responses to it and for ripping off models and their cloud shit, which is giving me flashbacks to Makerbots bullshit.

[Anonymous No.2710631]

My heightmap profiles disappear once I restart my klipper firmware and I have no idea if the default is being loaded up. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.2710633]

>>2710613
shit layer adhesion strength no matter what you do
PETG is king, all hail the king

[Anonymous No.2710634]

>>2710633
PETG is trash.

[Anonymous No.2710635]

>>2710633
petg is for idiots that think its a substitute to ABS, and ASA.

[Anonymous No.2710639]

>>2710629
>You can try to burn it off
with a blowtorch? i'm hesitant because it's right next to the wires
can i simply unplug the wires and plug them back in later or am i going to have to redo all my settings on the screen or something if i unplug the wires?
i saw a youtube video earlier and the guy said if you touch the wires in some specific way it can cause a short but he just brushed that under the rug like what the fuck man, tell me more about that

[Anonymous No.2710640]

>>2710635
Have fun with your weak shitty prints that delaminate at layer lines

[Anonymous No.2710644]

>>2710633
>>2710640
lol fag your enclosure doesn't get hot enough for cheap chinese ABS

45C - flawless every time

[Anonymous No.2710651]

>>2710644
That does nothing for your weak shit layer adhesion
Maybe if you printed at 100C it would actually have an effect

[Anonymous No.2710652]

>>2710633
PETG: Polyethylene Terrible Garbage

[Anonymous No.2710655]

>>2710651
My layer adhesion is fine, this is a you problem.

[Anonymous No.2710656]

>>2710655
It's shite. With PETG you can get 50% layer adhesion strength while ABS can only manage 25% ie. literaly garbage.
Source: CNC kitchen

[Anonymous No.2710659]

>>2710656
You're (poorly) citing a test wherein he was printing ASA without an enclosure. Try again, retard.

[Anonymous No.2710660]

>>2710656
Sorry kid, Stefan says otherwise.

[Anonymous No.2710693]

Made a little attachment for my solder station

[Anonymous No.2710711]

Do people really fanboy materiels? PETG seems like a decent material to use if you don't want to be gassed to death but need higher heat resistance than PLA

>>2710629
You should have a look at the Creality app. It looks awful. Part of me also wants to get a K1 Max over a P1S but seeing that app really put me off. While Bambu is a botnet at least its not full of adverts and uses some stupid CrealityCoin currency for buying models

[Anonymous No.2710730]

>no commercially available scissor lift 3d printer

[Anonymous No.2710768]

>>2710693
sexually attractive layers anon.
What printer?

[Anonymous No.2710769]

>>2710711
Yea apparently they do. But sorry I asked, I just remembered a time abs fell out of style. And my experience with it was a lot of shrinking to compensate for and fumes. Managed everything I needed on other stuff so it just wasn't an issue.

And yea seeing there app puts me off. The larger bed is nice but I probably wouldnt get that much use from it especially with CNC as a goal. Apparently their lidar isn't like the lidar in the X1 either. Guy going into detail on it said it didn't stop during a failed print or seem to compensate or improve quality at all it just made start up take longer. Compared to the X1 where I've seen people show the lidar do stuff to stop failures.

But both seem to have much fewer failed prints then I'm used to anyway so the P1P for PLA and speed seems fine. Just have to find out if it has filament and power detection.

And hope core xy isn't a bad decision, last one had a lot of z wobble and ringing but it was a MakerBot clone in more primitive days

[Anonymous No.2710774]

>>2710769
The P1P/S and X1 all have vibration compensation nonsense so from what I've seen ringing isn't as bad as older core xy. Looks like they take 5-6 minutes to get ready to print though which would be a pain if you are designing something small and need to keep testing tolerances or something

I read earlier too that the generic PLA profiles in Bambu Slicer have a much lower max flowrate than the profiles for the Bambu filament. So if you do get one make sure to check the profile settings

[Anonymous No.2710779]

>>2710774
Ya I saw the issues of long start ups but people have made custom scripts to cut it down to under a minute. Real thing for me is if it's worth it over a Neptune 4. It's almost twice the cost. Though if it's praise as easy and reliable is to be believed then the saving of both filament and my time over some years could be worth that.

[Anonymous No.2710794]

>>2710730
benefits apart from being sex?

[Anonymous No.2710798]

>>2710794
print bed doesn't move, probably won't rock the table at high speeds as much when running at lower z heights.

[Anonymous No.2710803]

>>2710711
PETG for UV resistance and support for PLA
ABS for smoothing
ASA for UV resist when your PETG melted
Nylon for stronk
PLA for easy and support for PETG

I'm a material whore I love it all. I also think it's funny when that one anon gets all bent out of shape because people use PETG.

[Anonymous No.2710808]

>>2710774
>which would be a pain if
it's not really. I prototype all the time on the bambu even though it's in the basement and I have a printer that takes 20s to start at my elbow. the only time it's an issue is when you need to start a multi hour print and want to watch the first layer but you are about to go to sleep or go out.

[Anonymous No.2710842]

>>2710730
>>2710798
since most prints you ever do are pretty small this is not even as retarded as it looks

[Anonymous No.2710857]

>>2710803
It's PETG, this doesn't happen with other filaments. People dick-ride PETG, hard. "It's stronger and better than PLA or ABS and easier to print than either and more heat resistant and impact resistant and layer adhesion and..." and of course it's just bullshit and the actual stats usually disagree with their outlandish bullshit regurgitated Chinese marketing. Every material has its place, but some really seem to think PETG is the end-all-be-all for some reason, and often recommend it over more appropriate materials for a given purpose: >>2710633

[Anonymous No.2710862]

>>2710730
the print head would be very levered at high layers towards the front, away from the X supports and thus more difficult to keep steady. I'm not seeing how this adds benefit over a bed slinger. I mean it seems like for a more complex frame you're just moving the issues around not solving them.

[Anonymous No.2710868]

>>2710730
Wouldn't having consistent z layers be an absolute bitch? Or am I underestimating the resolution of these motors

[Anonymous No.2710876]

>>2710868
it's just math, can't be worse than a delta

[Anonymous No.2710877]

>>2710857
but all those things are true

[Anonymous No.2710880]

how hard is it to make solidworks work on linux?

[Anonymous No.2710882]

>>2710880
4/10

[Anonymous No.2710883]

>>2710730
That's actually kind of interesting for the reason >2710842 points out. The main problem that I see with this is the rigidity of the system in the X direction. Rapid accelerations will cause the gantry and top frame assembly to apply side loads to the scissor lift mechanism. This could always be overcome with an exterior frame and vertical linear rails, but it feels like that begins to become a departure from the design intent of the machine.
>>2710862
I'm not seeing how this adds benefit over a bed slinger
Bed slingers are absolute fucking retard design. If you print a heavy model, you are changing the dynamic response of the printer as you are adding mass to the bed. You cannot reliably tune input shaping on a bed slinger and get quality prints on a very light model (tens of grams) then go to a 750 gram model. Any gantry-based stationary bed design will be a vast improvement over any bed slinger for this reason alone.

[Anonymous No.2710887]

More and more thinking a P1P and if I need other materials just make or buy side panels. Thought about picking up a hardened steel nozzle or a different size but in the past I ran glow in the dark and others through just plated brass fine and the default is steel. Still not sure if big advantage on a Neptune but seems mostly the it just works idea, which can be fair.

>>2710880
I got Fusion 360 to work on Linux but started migrating to Blender. Solidworks probably can but I've never used a more unintuitive piece of software in my life so I never tried it directly.

[Anonymous No.2710890]

>>2710877
I keep fucking myself over every time I give PETG a try.
$20 wasted and a space that could be used for any other spool in my dryboxes every year or so.
It just prints like shit for me no matter what I do or what printer I use.
Only time I vaguely had success was on a printer with a 0.8mm nozzle and nearly 0.4mm layer heights.

[Anonymous No.2710893]

>>2710768
Ender 3 Pro with mods

[Anonymous No.2710895]

>>2709090
CAN toolhead finally up and running. Getting the BLTouch to work was a bit of a pain, and the finding the right documentation on the huvud board is so shit for the different versions. But it's working and seems to be working well.

[Anonymous No.2710896]

>>2710890
man I was printing PETG on my mini delta and it can barely reach 50C bed temp

[Anonymous No.2710903]

>>2710895
Fuck yeah, good job anon.

[Anonymous No.2710912]

Congratulations, tutorial completed.

[Anonymous No.2710915]

>>2710890
Nta but I had good luck with it in the past. But the big thing for it was precision. The Exact temp within 1 it needed to be and a good bed to stick to. Being near a window on a cold day could throw it off or color difference in filament absorbing heat different. But a couple tests to get the numbers and it printed beautiful every time until the roll was done. It's tricky but once you nail it it's awesome

[Anonymous No.2710918]

>>2710912
What a unit.

[Anonymous No.2710919]

>>2710915
I have like four spools just sitting in a bin. I had ABS dialed in before PETG even became a thing, so it always came across as kind of pointless to me.
>>2710918
I should do the giant cube print just to see if it's even possible.

[Anonymous No.2710921]

>>2710919
I was talking about you.

[Anonymous No.2710922]

>>2710876
You can fudge x/y, that's the whole business of slicing
Inconsistent z steps is not the same

[Anonymous No.2710923]

>>2710921
You do understand distortion, right?

[Anonymous No.2710950]

>>2710919
Could be a printer difference. My old one cooled unevenly and abs just hated it. And I gave up after I got a fine headache not realizing how enclosed the area was with me in it. Dumb on my part really.

So torn on the new printer decision. Need to get back into a hobby to not lose my mind in the holidays

[Anonymous No.2710955]

>>2710950
It's my reluctance to run at speeds and accels slower than I've been used to and making a profile that isn't for PETG.
I've had some minor successes using profiles meant for nylon just bringing down the temps though. It's just rarely a conscious decision to load PETG over any other filament.

[Anonymous No.2710977]

I just switched my ender 3 v2 to a belted z. I'm having a hard time getting the x gantry level though. I'll use screws_tilt_adjust and get the z numbers all within 0 minutes of each other but when I run the bed mesh it shows 0.5mm variance like: / Any ideas why it's so far off?

[Anonymous No.2710986]

I'm considering buying a printer, but I have concerns that hopefully you fags can set me straight on.
Basically I don't want to be a nerd about it.
>don't want to store a bunch of different types of filament.
>don't want to poison myself too much with fumes.
>don't want to create a lot of waste
My impression of this tech is that failed prints are common; is it often just skill issue, or are poorly-made, poorly-calibrated printers causing problems, or something else? Will I eventually get to a point with my printer's setup and my own skill at modeling that I can generally just fire-and-forget with a high success rate?

I guess what it comes down to is that I'd like a general-purpose printer that prints a general-purpose material "well enough" without much fuss.
Preferably one that's attached to FOSS principles.
I'd spend up to 800 USD on one.

what do?

[Anonymous No.2710988]

The filament I'm using keeps breaking. Is it just a dodgy reel? I feel like it keeps getting tangled on itself.

[Anonymous No.2710995]

Which filament types are the best for outdoor prints that will be in the sun and rain for a long time?

[Anonymous No.2710999]

>>2710995
anything UV safe

[Anonymous No.2711003]

>>2710988
you should be able to bend it 180 degrees back on itself without it snapping. If it's been down the ptfe tube unspool past that point and test new filament. I've been successful using filament that snaps like spaghetti by only feeding it forward, it seems when it gets pulled back is when it happens so I can get through bad stuff as long as I don't change filaments. Dehydrating helps it print (maybe?) but definitely doesn't help with the filament breaking.

[Anonymous No.2711008]

>>2710986
buy a neptune 4 max and 10 rolls of gray PLA. spend the rest on a filament recycler.

unfortunately reliable pellet printers are still over 5k because it sounds like that's what you really want.

[Anonymous No.2711014]

>>2710912
mspaint version of a 3d print

[Anonymous No.2711015]

>>2711003
It breaks on after a 90 degree bend

[Anonymous No.2711020]

>>2711015
yeah it's bad

[Anonymous No.2711030]

>>2710995
If theres no load pla works, i have stuff outdoors for like 7 years now.

[Anonymous No.2711035]

>>2711030
There will be wind load
I guess I should try ASA?

[Anonymous No.2711037]

>>2710986
Depends a lot on what you want to make in the first place.
>Preferably one that's attached to FOSS principles.
Avoid Bambu, get a printer with Klipper support

[Anonymous No.2711040]

>>2711030
>works
you must not have a relevant UV index

https://3dprinterchat.com/filament-exposure-testing-results-after-3-years-outdoors/

[Anonymous No.2711042]

>>2711020
Fuck. Guess that's on me for using filament that was a decade old.

[Anonymous No.2711045]

>>2711035
ASA is your best bet

[Anonymous No.2711120]

>>2710877

>petg more heat resistant than abs

L
O
L

bro you're dumb asf. Shit heat creeps @ 40C

>prove it

Not jumping through hoops on this, prusa and reprap forums have talked about it.

[Anonymous No.2711212]

>>2711120
bruh

[Anonymous No.2711223]

>>2708236
That looks neat. Anyone else know of some nice antibacterial/microbial filament? Want to print some equipment off for homelab work at some point.

[Anonymous No.2711229]

So what filaments need an enclosure? There are so many now compared to the past and I only know ABS benefiting from it. But now there is PC, PA, TPU, ASA, Nylon, and others.

[Anonymous No.2711236]

>>2711229
>Pc, Nylon, Asa
Depends on blend. Some can be printed without an enclosure with minimal warping, normally composite style versions(cf, glass fiber)
>Tpu
Tpu is weird, but the most notable things to keep in mind are tuning print settings for your specific TPU, and using a direct drive extruder of some kind. There are a few specifically designed for it, but anything with a large gear should do fine (Orbiter, lgx/lgx lite, any or all derivatives)

[Anonymous No.2711317]

>>2711212
He's not wrong, I've had a genuine prusa brand prusa basically fall apart after I put it in an insulated box that reached 50C.

[Anonymous No.2711320]

>>2711317
This is the most damning thing about Prusa
I can put a $250 ender in a box and print nylon
$1000 prusa can't bother to make parts to it's reprap autism printer out of ABS

[Anonymous No.2711324]

>>2711320
>I can put a $250 ender in a box and print nylon
You really can't though. At least not stock, which also goes for the prusa.
t. attempted to use my cr10 in a passively heated enclosure to make cf nylon parts for my dead i3MK3. The bed motor died on me.

[Anonymous No.2711334]

what would be strongest and most wear resitant filament? abs?
i need to print picrel that will see some work, maybe not 24/7 but still some, and i want to know what to use so i wouldn't print new one after one break.

[Anonymous No.2711340]

>>2711334
Straight nylon and grease.

[Anonymous No.2711347]

>>2711324
>You really can't though. At least not stock
You have to move the PSU outside and you might need to upgrade to a modern printhead instead of the 2012 era PTFE tube crap, but not much else.
I bake the absolute shit of my E3Pro in an enclosure that can reach 65C or more, so far the only thing that had to be replaced was the hotend mount which cracked. Not sure if I can attribute this to the heat alone though, as that part was one of the first ABS parts I printed with piss all layer adhesion and was in use for over 2 years.
Everything else works okay but I did add a big 80mm fan to the mainboard just to be safe.

[Anonymous No.2711361]

>>2711334
what's it for? it looks like something to hold an antenna or rod at as specific orientation. because my first question would be is there a better design for whatever application this is designed. Also nylon. And you can print nylon successfully without an enclosure, it works best with small pieces but it's possible.

[Anonymous No.2711365]

>>2711361
>>2711340
This.
Also, keep in mind it might not be possible depending on how small/how large and the loads that there are on it.
Print it out of PLA first, post pics.

[Anonymous No.2711377]

>>2711361
>>2711365
i want to use them as mounts for phtography studio lights. chinese knockoffs of ulanzi lights that weight next to nothing

[Anonymous No.2711386]

>>2711377
nice.
Care to link to the lights? I'm about to place a pretty large ali order and wouldn't mind a few high cri, diffused benchtop lights.

[Anonymous No.2711396]

>>2711386
aliexpress dot com slash item slash 1005005459252359 dot html

fuck 4chin spam detection

[Anonymous No.2711409]

>>2711396
Can they run continuously without overheating/charge while functioning?
I'm already picturing a frame of these mounted under a shelf.

[Anonymous No.2711410]

>>2711409
i have only tried them for like half an hour and they didn't even get warm.
personally, i'd go for led strips

[Anonymous No.2711429]

Is it safe to keep a 3d printer on the floor? I got the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max and it's a lot bigger than my previous printer. I don't have another room to put it in because I live in NY. Can I keep it on the floor?

[Anonymous No.2711430]

>>2711429
If you put it on the floor it will be subject to a lot more electrical infetterence

[Anonymous No.2711432]

>>2711430
How so? What if I put it on a rubber mat?

[Anonymous No.2711451]

>>2711429
I had a piece of wood as a raiser under one for years before I built a shelf for it. Just don't block a fan or let anything hot be near carpet

[Anonymous No.2711458]

Is thicker alway better for part strength?
PIc related is PLA, printing with 0.4mm nozzle. This is a motor drive adapter, and so printed at 100pct infil. I've read that thinner layers are generally weaker, and frankly main reason I'm doing thicker layers here is that it's faster.
Am I right that thicker layers for this part will make it stronger (to the degree it even matters for this part.)

[Anonymous No.2711467]

>>2711458
I think more walls with thinner layers is stronger. You shouldn't do 100% infill in any case. I only go above 40% if I need the piece to have heft, you're really not adding to the strength and there is a chance it will bulge.

[Anonymous No.2711468]

>>2711430
that's why hippies with bare feet have frizzy hair after all

[Anonymous No.2711478]

>>2711467
This part is under severe point stresses where the D motor shaft goes in. I've done it at 50pct infill and had it fail; the one at 100pct has had no issues.
Good call on the walls vs. infill; I'll watch that with this part next time.

[Anonymous No.2711613]

>>2707987
Brainlet take. The Ad industry and prism clearly show otherwise.

[Anonymous No.2711618]

>>2710153
My shop runs in imperial by default, the vendor runs in metric. The hole pattern is going to be metric, you're laser cutting from a computer generated DXF and never inspecting the part anyway so whatever.

[Anonymous No.2711623]

So Bambu P1S or Creality K1 Max?

K1 Max is a little bigger with a better screen, P1S seems a little faster and perhaps a little easier?, not sure how quality stacks up. I'm tired of fixing shit and calibrating a ton so both have appeal. Creality is being weird these days about their business just shoving printers out the door, but they've been around awhile and likely will continue to be so the custom hotend (which is eh) should at least be replaceable or likely to get a third party option if they stopped supporting it. Bambu is new on the scene, but their business model seems very sustainable. I don't like how closed ecosystem they are, but they offer well priced parts using a free shipping bonus to sell a little extra, and their product stack is very simple and mostly using the same components to get both polish on the result and likely enough profit to stick around and not go all Makerbot crazy on us.

[Anonymous No.2711631]

>>2711623
You can buy cloned hotends for bambu stuff, can even get hot ends with replaceable nozzles on
I think the main difference between the K1 Max and P1S that you've not already mentioned is the P1S has an air filter, theK1 Max has Lidar (Not heard much about how good it is), a better screen/printer controls and the Creality app sucks

With the Max being cheaper its tempting though. However for around $10 you can buy a little touch screen to improve the P1S's user experience. But thats another $10 ontop of the already big price gap

[Anonymous No.2711639]

>>2711631
Oh cool glad to know there are some third party ones out there just in case. I was glad to see Bambu give and update for an offline mode as well. Did see Creality's app suck butt however its camera is usable with it and not the Bambu at least if you are using it in LAN, I think, though that could change.

P1S (699) is a tiny bit cheaper than the K1 Max (720 on sale). I don't plan to do the AMS, I've no use for multiple colors, that is what the airbrush is for. But if P1S wins out for me I would consider 10 bucks worth it on a nicer screen, then again my current printer has a worse screen by miles, but I never see it because I just use astroprint from my PC, looks like their software worse similar (guess I'm going to end up with an extra Pi3 around). Looked into the Lidar before, K1 Max seems to do nothing, the really expensive X1 from Bambu can detect failure and otherwise also seems to do nothing. Or maybe the slight improvement they make is like 98% quality to 99% so you can't tell, because nobody else seemed to see a difference with it on either. Air filter is nice, not a big ABS person, but the fucker would be in the room with me sometimes so good bonus as I had no idea on that. Both seem to be a good size, but when you say printer controls is the Creality better is that with fine tuning or you mean just the better interface on the screen? Bambu seems to not really need much tuning from what I've seen though, I remember the cupcake printer days where you needed half a spool to calibrate the damn thing before you got something vaguely in the shape of what you made so this shit is magic to me these days.

[Anonymous No.2711645]

Just tried 0.04mm layer height and it legit looks perfect like resin, this is insane

[Anonymous No.2711651]

>>2711645
What printer and size of nozzle? I'm curios on this as it could save me a lot of post print refining. (tempted to get a small resin printer but the toxicity of them puts me off heavily)

[Anonymous No.2711744]

I CONSOOOM'D AND BOUGHT A KINGROOON KLP1 PRINTER.

WHAT AM I IN FOR???

CONSOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!

[Anonymous No.2711746]

>>2711645
You're telling me that an sla layer height resulted in sla-like finish?
That being said, The part must've been simple and low z height, can't imagine that being a reliable print setting.

[Anonymous No.2711749]

>>2711639
You can use the camera in LAN mode now. They updated it recently
>when you say printer controls is the Creality better is that with fine tuning or you mean just the better interface on the screen?
I meant the interface on the screen, the physical controls for the printer
Here's a video about the screen upgrade: https://youtu.be/7Av64TRznlI

Its still not as good as the K1/Max but it looks much better than stock

>K1 Max seems to do nothing, the really expensive X1 from Bambu can detect failure and otherwise also seems to do nothing
I thought both of them auto-calibrate flow rate and pressure advance? I'd heard the Creality one doesn't detect spaghetti though

[Anonymous No.2711765]

>>2711334
PETG
ABS is only good for toughness and heat resistance, not for strength or wear resistance.

[Anonymous No.2711770]

>>2711749
Ah. I'm fine if screen controls are basic, as long as things are adjustable in the slicer, which I assume is the case given Bambu is based on Prusa slicer and Reality off Cura. I use set all my stuff in the slicer so once the file is to the printer it has nothing to do but print.

Supposedly the lidar for both is supposed to make small adjustments to flow etc but I watched some videos of people turning it on and off and the result was the same. Did see a demo of the X1 stopping a print when it failed but in terms of user results neither lidar honestly seemed to do shit. Perhaps an update one day could change that but it really looked the same.

[Anonymous No.2711774]

>>2711770
I've been messing with OrcaSlicer which is a fork of BambuSlicer and its quite good. I'm unsure what features are Orca exclusive but it has the calibration stuff built in like SuperSlicer and being able to lay out a project across multiple plates is fucking handy.

The only thing I don't like is it takes a while to open for some reason,and when I move it around the screen it lags behind the mouse cursor. Can't be my PC that's the issue as a have a 5800X, 32GB RAM and a 3080

I'd also love being able to group parts together for sequential printing. So I could throw these black latches/hinge onto the same plate as a half of the box and have it print the box lid then print all the latches afterwards. All the colour changes from orange/black would make it take forever with the ams. Waiting for black friday to bite the bullet though on the off chance a local site knocks a few quid off or throws in some free filament or something

[Anonymous No.2711781]

>>2711774
You mean it won't let you place multiple stl files at once or that it won't do them order you want to save on purging time and material?

Cool to know there is another slicer option. Should have figured with any popular printer even if it's a closed system the community would do it anyway for parts and mods. I feel I'm leaning towards Bambu as well even though they are the new guy and we've certainly seen plenty appear and vanish. I think I'm in that boat as well. If they do a sale in the next week I'm in.

The K1 Max is probably a good choice too so I don't think I have a wrong answer. Before a sizeable, quality, and less tinkery device was only the territory of 3k+ ulitmakers and beyond.

[Anonymous No.2711785]

>>2711781
What I mean is I want it to print the lid as job 1, then the rest of the stuff as job 2. But if I turn on print objects individually it will do them as 5 separate jobs. I can probably run a thin line between the black bits to turn them into a single model. But being able to group models into jobs would be nice. Especially when printing a bunch of Lucky13's for my nephew. I could probably print 3-4 at once rather than 2 if I could make it do all the joints in one colour as one job, then move to the other side of the bed and do all the armour in another colour. Maybe its a feature that will appear eventually. Or its already there but I can't find it

[Anonymous No.2711786]

>>2711785
I forgot the image

[Anonymous No.2711792]

>>2711785
make parts 2-4 an assembly. they don't have to be touching.

[Anonymous No.2711795]

I should've known better than to go to reddit looking for a review of a printer.
>retards using a 0.4mm nozzle with carbon fiber filled filaments.
>Complain that they're getting clogs.
>Retards trying to print at high-ish speeds with petg.
>Crashing the nozzle into the bed, or the gantry into the frame.
Do they just not know?

[Anonymous No.2711796]

>>2711792
based, thank you Anon

[Anonymous No.2711800]

>>2711795
>give actual advice on reddit
>get downvoted
I mean I'm not surprised

[Anonymous No.2711805]

>in bed
>forgot to start a re-print for a friend
>open bambu app and start
>wake up to it finished
comfy

[Anonymous No.2711810]

>>2709012
Fusion 360 would take no time to learn to do that. It's very intuitive and tends to know what you mean to do. And afternoon would definitely get you able to make whatever box design you want and other basic things. I spent a year pounding my head into solidworks and was able to catch up relearning in 360 in a weekend.

That said I'm switching to Blender because I'm not a fan of the company that owns it and need something that can do more modeling based stuff. But if you want simple parts Fusion will get you there fast.

[Anonymous No.2711813]

Are there any printers under $1,500 with an integrated chamber heater and at least 300mm*300mm bed beside the qidi ones? I've been looking for reviews and people either love them or tards on reddit are trying to do things like print carbon filled petg through a 0.4mm nozzle at 200mm/s. I have not been able to find a negative review of the qidi xmax 3 that doesn't come across as user error to some degree.
>inb4 shill.
I just want to upgrade from two bed slingers and a tiny voron 0 to something that I don't have to constantly fiddle with and can print large xy footprint parts on.

[Anonymous No.2711816]

>>2711805
>installing chink apps on your phone.

[Anonymous No.2711822]

>>2711813
K1 Max is a 300mm. Its creality both for their good and bad but Ive watched some that give it a pass. The lidar does nothing, hotend is dumb but works, app is crap but screen is fine, etc. Seems like they overall do fine on the actual job. Not perfect but makes good prints in an inclosure with a large volume.

[Anonymous No.2711827]

Cura uses outer wall speed instead of first layer speed for the first layer outer wall for some dumbass reason. Is there a parameter I'm missing or should I move to a new slicer?

[Anonymous No.2711859]

>>2711822
It's a good printer for the price. Usual dose of Creality shit, but all the same it already has a considerable userbase making the best of it. I'd never recommend it to a nub, but I think it'd be a solid option for >>2711813
>two bed slingers and a tiny voron 0

[Anonymous No.2711861]

>>2711827
God damn I fucking hate Cura so much it's unreal.

[Anonymous No.2711887]

>>2711822
While I really like the price of the K1, A review comparing both seems to have the qidi as the better option, mostly based on the bed's even heating. The low flow is perhaps one of the easiest things to fix, if possible even going to a different hotend down the line.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhlkfCwGZO0
I do really dislike qidi's nozzle fuckery, though it seems the k1 does this as well. Fucking chinkjews. At least the nozzle is replaceable.

[Anonymous No.2711896]

>>2711861
I love it, look at all the settings I'll never use!
But I just sliced something and it appears to be functioning like it should
I'll try it again later tonight, maybe there's some issue with the order you change values

[Anonymous No.2711899]

>>2711887
Yea Creality is a case of the devil you know. Not to overly make them sound bad, they've done a great job of making things more feature and price competitive over the years but they do some odd corner cuts sometimes or just weird choices in general. I'm sure they'll have a different nozzle too but at the same time with either it's kind of in that range of should you really have to replace a part of something you just unboxed. But still under 1k for what a couple years ago was a few thousand is cool.

>>2711896
I remember Cura was the big answer to so many little shit brand specific or paywall slicers. Guess that would bloat it with options compared to today's more fire out the file and let it sort it out level of printer. Go go gadget profiles I guess.

[Anonymous No.2711903]

>>2711899
I'm risking it with the qidi.
Worst case scenario, I have to use it to build a legacy voron.
>comes with hardened nozzle.
>It's a 0.4mm nozzle meant for fibered materials.
it's like they're setting themselves up for failure.

[Anonymous No.2711922]

>>2711903
Makes sense. I bought some stuff like that with the idea that if all shit itself in the end it's still a metal box, gantry, belts, motors, etc and worse case scenario I toss in a generic board and hotend or my case laser and it's back in action. If the mechanical pieces are fine they can always be upcycled.

[Anonymous No.2711965]

I can never tell if its meant to be a dildo or not.

[Anonymous No.2711968]

>>2711965
It's on Printables with no makes, not the front page bestseller list on Cults.

[Anonymous No.2711985]

>>2711899
>Guess that would bloat it with options
The idea of having all those options is to be able to customize profiles for specific applications. If you're just printing dragon dildoes and don't care about support interface line width then you can use the simple settings mode and it will serve you well.

[Anonymous No.2711988]

>>2711985
Yes I get that. Im talking about the days were some Chinese off brands options were temp and fan on or off and Cura swooped in with some real ability. Back then you had to sort of figure it out and share the info. It was very helpful but it's nice we have a variety of choice now.

[Anonymous No.2712014]

MOTHERFUCKER

[Anonymous No.2712068]

I was swapping the main board on my ender 3 and lost track of which fan plugs into which port. Is it the main board fan or the hot end fan that is supposed to turn on as soon as you turn on the power supply?

[Anonymous No.2712072]

>>2712068
What board revision?

[Anonymous No.2712073]

>>2711887
Finally took a moment to check out Qidi printers as I've heard from here and another about them. One of their cheap printers is a near copy of a 9 year old design of Makerbot that had a lot of problems. It looks improved but the style alone makes me raise an eyebrow and wonder how much they are cloning off others without knowing why or why not something works. Bit sketchy.

[Anonymous No.2712084]

>>2712072
4.2.7

[Anonymous No.2712085]

>>2712073
>makes me wonder how chinese the chinese are
Guess.

[Anonymous No.2712088]

>>2712014
Try using a brim. I found they're easily removed from parts like that, especially if you can run one of these guys on the edge after printing.

[Anonymous No.2712093]

What am I doing wrong?
Does qidi only allow the heated chamber on their preset filament profiles? Why can't I change this?
Explain prusaslicer to a cura person.

[Anonymous No.2712095]

>>2712088
It's a cold basement that had an open window and the actively heated chamber is off, because of shanghai shenanigans.>>2712093

[Anonymous No.2712097]

>>2712093
Click that lock icon under the "device" button and see what happens.

[Anonymous No.2712101]

>>2712097
nothing happens.

[Anonymous No.2712109]

>>2712101
>tfw getting klipper to just automatically change the settings of the gcode file is easier than figuring out this shit.
oh well. no longer a problem.

[Anonymous No.2712110]

>>2712093
Go to the Printer Settings tab and select the correct printer.

[Anonymous No.2712111]

>>2712101
>>2712109
so in bambu and orca the build plate and chamber temps are set under the individual filament. not sure that helps.

[Anonymous No.2712113]

Any one use the bambu cold plate here? The whole reason I want a P1S is so I can keep the fucker closed when printing.
Does the Aux fan keep the chamber cool enough at 45c or will I need the cold plate to keep the bed temp at 30c

[Anonymous No.2712115]

>>2712093
>>2712110
First, make sure you have the right printer selected. Don't roll your eyes faggot, double check. Second, under the Printer Settings tab, make sure the Chamber Temperature box is checked. If you cannot see these settings, it's because you're in wittle bitty baby mode and need to put it in grown-up mode. From the Configuration tab at the top, go to the Mode drop-down, select Expert, leave it there forever, always do this in every PrusaSlicer derivative.

[Anonymous No.2712116]

>>2712113
I exclusively use the cold plate with the hot plate settings. It warns you but you can disable the warning. Originally the cold plate was for PETG, but they changed that after mine was produced so I saw no reason to not just run the cold plate and PLA worked better on the heated plate so I just kept doing it. The chamber gets pretty warm but people crack the lid, at least as evidenced by how many "crack the lid" mods there are for the bambu. Still, Printing ABS and ASA alone or mixed is not an issue with the chamber closed, nor is PLA and PETG.

Uh, also it will warn you if the vitrification temp of a material is exceeded by the bed temp when mixing, and I think it suggests opening the top or door. I only see it when I'm switching to or from ABS and the AMS isn't current.

[Anonymous No.2712118]

>>2712115
the issue is fixed via a script in klipper.
it also runs preheat, i've noticed that since the alum plate on this thing is so thick it tends to run as much as 10C behind withr egard to sensor vs surface.
Thanks for the help though, I'll look into it some other night when I'm sober.

[Anonymous No.2712119]

Anyone have the Ender 3 V3 SE? I can buy 3 of them for the price of a P1P and they look like they just work™

[Anonymous No.2712122]

>>2712119
you should

[Anonymous No.2712123]

>>2712115
I was on expert.
Why in the fuck did the xmax 3 print setting not feature this from the getgo?
Anyways, I also just discovered that this printer apparently has a chamber fan with a carbon filter for some reason.

[Anonymous No.2712124]

>>2712123
I meant to say thanks.>>2712115
that seems to have resolved the issue.

[Anonymous No.2712126]

>>2712116
I don't want to crack the lid, I want the air thats coming out the chamber flowing through the filter

[Anonymous No.2712130]

>>2712124
Fuck yeah glad that fixed it. If you upgraded from a previous version of the slicer that could've fucked up the profile as they recently made changes to some of those features, but that's just speculation.
The chamber fan + carbon filter combo is for air scrubbing, cutting down on fumes and microplastics in the chamber so they don't then get released into your workspace. How well they work, who the fuck knows, but I've heard anecdotal accounts that it really does make a noticeable difference when printing particularly odorous ABS.

[Anonymous No.2712133]

>>2712130
I heard carbon filters don't do much for the VOC's ABS gives off. You need a proper filtration system for that horrific shit
I'm only going to print PLA (maybe PETG) but PLA can give off fumes that irritate your respiratory system (happens with my Ender 3 so its in another room. Sadly I can't really put the P1S there as its going to be too heavy to move around the house as needed)

[Anonymous No.2712137]

>>2712126
yeah I mean that works as intended, idk why so many people get an enclosed printer and then freak out about the fact that it's enclosed.

>>2712133
ABS smells even with the filter but it can't compete with the microplastics. be sure not to spray paint, prime, be anywhere with an automobile running, live anywhere or be outside ever, use any chemicals or be born before 2005 because your going way beyond the VOCs from few prints if you do.

[Anonymous No.2712139]

>>2712123
Just in time.
Toilet handle broke, and I'm hoping I can get a viable handle/lever in the next thirty minutes.

[Anonymous No.2712145]

>>2712137
You shouldn't joke, anon, life is a precious gift. Never go to loud clubs, it's bad for your ears, and stay the hell away from drugs because they're not legal. Bury all your money in the backyard, never trust a bank, they've been known to fail. Also never travel by car, bus, boat, or by rail. Don't travel plane, don't travel at all. Build a bomb shelter in your basement with titanium walls. Wear a titanium suit in case a piano falls on you. Never go to saunas, they're crawling with piranhas. Also never take the stairs, they're often unsafe. Cook your meant until it's done. Stay away from kids, their hair is filled with MAD lice. There's no such thing as too much Purell. Always wear a chastity belt, triple lock it. Hire a taster, make him check your food for poison. If you become paranoid of your mailman, just destroy him. No blankets or pajamas, they can choke you in your sleep. Two words for furniture: Killing Machines. Board up your windows, the sun is bad for your health. Wear a straight jacket so you're safe from yourself. Get a 401K, make sure it's low risk. Get some real estate, get yourself a mortgage. Burn the prints off your thumbs. Pull out your teeth, so you can't bite your tongue. You oughta look out, anon, you only live once.

[Anonymous No.2712146]

>>2712139
And, done.
Works nicely. corexy+abs+syringe with acetone ftw.
Genuinely faster than going out and buying a replacement.

[Anonymous No.2712151]

>>2712146
>gonna touch it with poop on your hands
3d printing seems like a great solution

[Anonymous No.2712153]

>>2712151
Order of operations not your thing?
Also, this isn't meant to be permanent, only until I can be armed to stop by a hardware store and try to figure out the correct lever/arm thing.

[Anonymous No.2712154]

>>2712146
I didn't even notice the handle itself was printed at first, I was staring at the arm. Good job anon, really nice work.

[Anonymous No.2712179]

>>2712085
You know what I mean though. Many of these companies are there, cloned, or using parts made there but this is straight out a design from nearly 10 years ago cloned from FlashForge Pro that it's self was a clone of an early MakerBot who aren't a thing now. It's their cheap model but makes me think their high end are likely a mess on the inside of goofy stolen engineering. The Chinese thing of copying stuff from a photo without knowing why. At nearly 1k I wouldn't want to be redoing a board, firmware, hotend, or whatever mistakes are there. Looks like the days of doing exactly that but that anon does seem to be prepared for that.

[Anonymous No.2712285]

>>2712014
>he left the aux fan on

[Anonymous No.2712286]

>>2711816
Gonna cry about it?

[Anonymous No.2712321]

>>2712153
>shit
>wash hands
>flush with handle
>handle wasn't sanitary
>have to wash hands again

I bet you leave public stalls without realizing everyone who shit in that stall grabbed the dead bolt without washing their hands.

[Anonymous No.2712323]

>>2711816
>because that's the one way they're going to "get" you

[Anonymous No.2712416]

>>2712321
look at this bitch nigga afraid of no-see-ums

[Anonymous No.2712422]

why is this happening? Its supposed to be a solid base

[Anonymous No.2712433]

Who the fuck even is Josef Prusa and why does he put his name on everything

[Anonymous No.2712446]

>>2712433
He was active in reprap shit right at the tipping point, and he made some significant contributions. He made the first open-source and freely available heated bed design intended to be reproduced, as opposed to the one-off projects that some had done prior, I think this is genuinely his least overhyped contribution. It wasn't the first PCB heated bed, but it was the first one available for everyone to fuck with.
He put his name on his projects, as lots of people did. His name became his brand, his brand became popular by producing some of the best consumer printers available at the time and continuing to contribute to opensource shit. The brand attracted a lot of spergs, Prusa following became cult-like and the community became a toxic cesspool of "It Just Werks!" and "Shoulda bought a Prusa." You have to be careful how you ask a question on the Prusa forum, you must NEVER imply that there's something wrong with the machine, "Clearly I have damaged God's begotten printer with my pathetic human hands, please help fix my underextrusion." Prusa himself has talked about how the overuse of his name and his image becoming synonymous with the brand was something that happened outside of his control, driven by the community, and at times he's found it uncomfortable and cringey.

That's about it. His company was named after him, spergs fell in love with his company and declared him 3D Jesus and make little figurines of him and tattoo his name on their faces. He tongue-in-cheek does the "Everyone's a maker, only I'm a printer" t-shirt because why fight your customer base if they want to throw money at you and defend you with autistic fervor?

[Anonymous No.2712454]

>>2712433
His parents named him after their favorite printer, duh.

[Anonymous No.2712455]

>>2712068
The main board fan is tied to the part cooling fan, the hotend fan turns on as soon as you power the machine

[Anonymous No.2712456]

God I hate reddit so fucking much.

[Anonymous No.2712476]

>>2712422
Almost looks like it's dragging through the print like it's too close.

>>2712456
Correct but why specifically.

[Anonymous No.2712477]

477/87/90/10
Call it

>2712475
>>2712475
>>>2712475
>>2712475
>2712475

Beep Beep Motherfucker

>2712475
>>2712475
>>>2712475
>>2712475
>2712475

Beep Beep Motherfucker