/3dpg/ - Brand Supremacy Edition

[Anonymous No.2675810]

#324
Last Thread: >>2670301

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>Calibrate your printer.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [32/72/5 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, these are just popular and available options, don't buy a $1000 bedslinger:
Up to 200 USD: Kingroon KP3S, Sovol SV01, Voxelab Aquila X2, Anycubic Kobra Neo, ELEGOO Neptune 2S, Malyan M300/Monoprice Mini Delta
Up to 300 USD: Kingroon KP3S Pro/Pro S1, Sovol SV06, Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo, Elegoo Neptune 3
Up to 400 USD: Creality Ender 3 S1, Sovol SV01 Pro, Artillery Sidewinder SW-X2
Up to 500 USD: Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro, FLSUN Super Racer
Up to 500 USD Large-Format: Anycubic Kobra Max, Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
Up to 800 USD: Bambu Lab P1P
Over 1000 USD: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon, Ultimaker, Lulzbot, Raise3D
DIY: Voron, Rat Rig, Ultimaker/2/3, https://reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg

>Where can I get things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://printables.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://cults3d.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCAD
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

Legacy Pastebin (Last updated 998 days ago): https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

[Anonymous No.2675823]

>>2675810
any good and available US made filaments out there that isnt Solutech? or brands not made in china, but also not prusament? seems US made brands keep going out of business or get hard to find.

[Anonymous No.2675893]

I took a Dremel to my print and now it's melted. Realistically, I should have seen it coming, but I'm still surprised. Should I just sand by hand?

[Anonymous No.2675926]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMcGoPFM7T8
>"Just run through a couple of spools to find the right temperature for your filament!"

[Anonymous No.2675942]

>>2675823
>US Filament brands
3D-Fuel, Fusion Filaments, Printed Solid, Push Plastic, Paramount 3D, and Protopasta.
For not-shit from China, usually recommend Polymaker. Polymaker's American sub-brand is Overture, and if you're in the US it's often but not always cheaper to get Overture.

[Anonymous No.2675943]

>>2675926
Why watch or share this garbage?

[Anonymous No.2675944]

>>2675942
>Paramount 3D
Their 'Iron Red' PLA is probably my favorite filament, in color and print quality

[Anonymous No.2675945]

>>2675943
Because it's hilariously bad.

[Anonymous No.2675956]

I want to print this statue, but probably 4 times larger than my printer can handle. Has anyone sliced something like this into 4 or 8 pieces to print?
How did it turn out?
Would I be better off slicing in a more precise fashion to use less support?

[Anonymous No.2675979]

>>2675942
>For not-shit from China, usually recommend Polymaker. Polymaker's American sub-brand is Overture, and if you're in the US it's often but not always cheaper to get Overture.

Inland brand from microcenter is sourced from polymaker, the packaging with the leaf is polymaker sourced, idk if it will actually be cheaper but another option to check out.

>have polymaker lime
>decided to look at overture
>grass green
>grass green looks just like lime
>order it
>compare nearly looks identical

There is a slight color change, I think that could be from polymaker has been expose to light for a year now vs grass green package up in cardboard.

[Anonymous No.2675981]

>>2675893
For items you want to sand, don't use pla. I've never gotten a good result with sanded pla unless I spend hours manually doing it.

[Anonymous No.2675982]

>>2675823
If in Central Ohio, IC3D is local. Low color variety, but everything is high quality and you can buy huge bulk spools so it's cheaper than Inland as long asyou plan on printing loads of things.

[Anonymous No.2675990]

>>2675893
lower the speed, use a different grit, don't use a "for metal" attachment. dum dum

I've been printing a lot of stuff in ABS but haven't bothered to set up vapor smoothing. I just don't mind the print lines I guess.

[Anonymous No.2676040]

>>2675810
Anybody have a good reason for my supports always looking skeletonized? They don't fail usually but they always have small gaps on almost every layer at seemingly random start points, even now with my support speed dropped by over half trying to get them to stop failing to adhere initially on top of a printed piece

[Anonymous No.2676051]

Hey kings, I want to print parts for converting soda cans into miniature wargame terrain, do you think I'd have any problem with printing these parts flat on the bed ( resin ) or do I need supports ? the only protruding parts are tiny "rivets" on the sides. Would love some expert opinions here.

[Anonymous No.2676052]

>>2676051
>Would love some expert opinions here.
>>>/tg/3dpg

[Anonymous No.2676056]

>>2676051
As long as all of the not-visible parts (back side of the fins) are touching the bed, I don't see any issues

[Anonymous No.2676061]

>>2676056
I just wanted to check because I'm not used to this yet.
Do you anticipate problems with printing fake pipes this way ? Or the other decorations for that matter ?

[Anonymous No.2676066]

2676061
the curves and arches and slats all together make this look like 40k terrain bits

[Anonymous No.2676071]

>>2676061
I think it will probably work ok. A lot of people have better luck orienting the parts with horizontal surfaces at a bit of an angle. I don't do a lot of resin printing though so maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in

[Anonymous No.2676141]

>>2676061
pipes are fine I'm worried about those shutters tho

[Anonymous No.2676158]

[Anonymous No.2676174]

>hardware store is closed for the holiday weekend so I can't buy insulation
true makeshift hobo hours

[Anonymous No.2676178]

Ender 3 v2
This piece the tension knob presses on has cracked around the front screw, so i expect any belt tension to be inconsistent
Is there a print file for this piece? Failing that, a metal replacement? Failing THAT, an original plastic replacement?

[Anonymous No.2676184]

>>2676178
I don't know much about your printer and can't tell much off the image but if you mean this piece it would be extremely simple to measure it and model one out even on something as basic as meshmixer since I assume you've got at least one working printer given you're request for a file

but also it's an ender 3 so there's high odds somebody else has already made a file for whatever piece you're needing

[Anonymous No.2676189]

need advice on a recurring failure several hours into a 2 day print on a year-ish old prusa mk3s, everything is either stock or stock replacements aside from swapping brass nozzle for a coated steel option, first print I've tried where this has been an issue, have messed with the file and re-sliced several times to no avail
gets to a point where it starts throwing thermal anomalies despite temp never fluctuating more than 6c either direction and the anomaly pings worsen until it pauses the print and insta-anomaly-pauses if I try to resume
ran cleaning filament through nozzle and gave it a few passes with a needle and fed spool back in, didn't see any pock marks in extruded material, no curling either
no visible damage to thermistor or its wires or the heater cartridge/wires and checked that neither somehow got loose at their board connections
tried gcode disabling thermal model warnings and did a PID after it cooled down and started another where it instantly jumped/read at 305c and killed the process
unplugged everything and waited on it to cool then checked thermistor screw and saw it was a little loose while still warm, tightened till I felt a little resistance
have a new test print going with thermal warnings still off that seems steady so far but haven't hit the common occurrence point yet

any suggestions as to where to look next if it ends up failing at that same general area this time? I have a backup for the thermistor and cartridge on the way just in case

[Anonymous No.2676190]

>>2676189
and for what it's worth the print itself hasn't exploded on the bed while printing, it's something machine-side killing these prints despite them coming out clean

[Anonymous No.2676193]

>>2676178
Yes, there are plenty on thingiverse. One of the fist things people usually print with the Ender 3

[Anonymous No.2676195]

>>2676189
>throwing thermal anomalies
Can you describe that in more detail? It sounds like it could be the slicer calling for temps that are out of bounds, so to speak. Did you ctrl+f the temperature changes in the g-code and make sure it wasn't calling for absurd temps? Can't imagine why it would, but if the error is consistent at the same spot, that is where I would start

[Anonymous No.2676201]

>>2676189
Consider reflashing Marlin for it with more of the latest shit enabled, there may be options that give you more verbose descriptions of errors.

[Anonymous No.2676207]

>>2676195
it starts the beautiful chime of something going wrong and displays THERMAL ANOMALY or THERMAL ERROR and either beeps a few times and recovers or pauses the print with the message remaining on the display, can go navigate to resume but if I do it will just instantly pop the error again and pause again till I kill it. Even hitting the reset switch will see those warnings persist if I begin another but fully powering down will wipe things clean, I'll open the gcode on this latest one up when I get back to my desktop tonight but I've printed a variation of this model near a dozen times without any problems like this yet, might be some weird geometry in this newest edit caused the slicer to freak out and throw in a wild temp fluctuation for some reason like you said possibly
comparing two killed prints the error is semi-consistent within a few layers usually but they are almost all on different slices with slight variations in print speeds as right before this I was having issues with my extruder not keeping up with my usual speed that went away when slowing down which tells me that that motor or one of the gears is starting to wear down, but that's an easily band-aidable problem to worry about after this thermal shit gets sorted
>>2676201
I'll look into this as well if this current attempt fails, I'm still new-ish enough to the software side of this shit that I'm squeamish with flashing anything other than the stock shit that pops up on prusaslicer
mostly after swapping my E5+ to kersey's modded e5+ firmware to let me mess with the bed PID and managing to disable all the touchscreen functionality for several days before a re-flash with no changes fixed that somehow

[Anonymous No.2676208]

Designing a "quick" change toolholder for a drill and laser to mount on my ender 3 v2.

The drill's height will be calibrated via a seperate Z limit switch that the bit presses against each time I change the bit, so any vertical misalignment isn't a big deal.

I guess I could also mount a bed level sensor on it.

[Anonymous No.2676235]

I have been messing with my new LDO Super Power motors on my printer, and have run into a brand new klipper error:
"MCU 'mcu' shutdown: Rescheduled timer in the past
This generally occurs when the micro-controller has been
requested to step at a rate higher than it is capable of
obtaining."
Would anyone happen to know what the "max step rate" for TMC2209s is? Does higher microsteps mean lower max speed? Any insight is appreciated.

[Anonymous No.2676256]

>>2676235
>Would anyone happen to know what the "max step rate" for TMC2209s is?
Pic related is the maximum frequency stuff. Not sure whether you want fullstep or not, will probably need to read the finer details and see whether there's anything about it in the printer board's or Klipper's docs.

Assuming it's just the 1/2*f result, there's a 10-16MHz input for the clock, so best case scenario it's 8MHz. Check your board schematic for more. It's quite possible for a 32-bit board to send pulses faster than 8MHz.

The problem might also mean the printer main board itself is unable to send step and direction commands fast enough, which may be the case if it's an 8-bit board. I can imagine this being the case if the board wants to send a pulse every 6µs, but has a 16MHz clock and can't get an integer division of its clock for that. Though I've also heard that they approximate this out pretty easily and you just get artefacts at high speed.

>Does higher microsteps mean lower max speed
Higher microsteps means smaller distance moved per step. It won't lower the maximum steps per second (as measured from the step pin), but it will lower the maximum linear speed. It will lower the number of "full steps" capable per second, so it may be that the "step rate" written in the error message is referring to "full steps".

[Anonymous No.2676271]

Can I cold pull a cht nozzle. Or am I going to have to heat up the hotend to change out.

[Anonymous No.2676288]

[Anonymous No.2676303]

>>2676208
>>2676288
Ok so I got it sliced properly, but Prusaslicer was telling me I may have bed adhesion issues. So I added a brim, cranked the bed up so it was lightly scraping the nozzle, and tried to mix some glue stick with the IPA, so let's hope it's fine in the morning. The bottom layer will probably look like shit, but who cares it's a functional print, I have a deburring tool. Pretty sure the half millimetre of extra pressure at the bottom won't propagate up the walls or infill and the rest of the print will come out just fine. Should probably invest in some Z-hop now that I have dual-Z screws though.

But damn are these some sexy parts, I hope they come out looking somewhat good. I am printing them vertically since the strength of the dovetail would be shit otherwise.

[Anonymous No.2676306]

>>2676271
>Can I cold pull a cht nozzle
Yes, you can cold pull a CHT. Use nylon for best result. Dont know about the chink CHT clones though. The copper insert might come out with the filament.
Pretty sure you cant cold pull the Revo CHT variant.

> Or am I going to have to heat up the hotend to change out.
Im assuming change out nozzle?
You always need to heat up your hotend to change nozzle, unless you have a Revo.

If you meant change out filament, then theres no reason not to heat it. You need to heat it to insert filament anyways.

[Anonymous No.2676325]

>>2676256
Thanks, so it's a hardware thing. I'm using a 64 bit board, so it's likely a bottleneck of the driver itself. Basically, I was trying to do the fastest travel move until the motors skipped, and at some ungodly value running 256 microsteps, the error appeared. I'll need to do some more testing to find out what number exactly makes this happen, and reduce amps until this number barely doesnt skip because 2 amps really bakes the drivers.

[Anonymous No.2676360]

How do you guys keep your moisture-sensitive filaments dry?
Just ikea plastic boxes with desiccant or something more sophisticated?
Or do you just store them wherever and dry them before printing?
I was thinking about buying a dedicated cabinet for filament storage and adding an electric dehumidifier to it, but most of what's available on the market seems to be either too big or not really designed to get the humidity that low.

[Anonymous No.2676361]

>>2676360
I got an ammo box with a couple handfuls of silica gel packs in it, fits about four 1kg spools.

[Anonymous No.2676395]

>>2676235
>>2676256
So I've messed around a bit more, and lowering microsteps to 128 does solve the issue, at least for the speeds I'm limited to. The motion system of the E5+ is showing its limits, and the pom wheels start to resonate or something above 270mm/s, making a kinda squeak/hum mixture.

[Anonymous No.2676444]

Recently started having issues with curling at the bottom of my raft. Used to print fine, using a glass print bed, but after a few prints it's started lifting in one corner.
Any thoughts?

>230/65 degrees
>bed leveled beforehand
>Ender 3

[Anonymous No.2676449]

>>2676444
alcohol clean?

[Anonymous No.2676454]

why the fuck is prusaslicer suddenly insisting that supports on a file that previously worked should be starting two layers above the layer they're supposed to be printing on
it does this with all three support pattern options but it's the easiest to see in the preview with organics

[Anonymous No.2676481]

>>2676449
Haven't tried it yet. Does acetone screw up a glass print bed?

[Anonymous No.2676489]

>>2676481
Not necessarily, but it can fuck up lots of other things nearby. Generally not recommended around 3D printers.

[Anonymous No.2676506]

>>2676449
oh for fuck sakes stop suggesting that, all it doesi t move the dirt, and your greasy finger marks around on the bed.

>>2676444
Anon needs to properly clean the bed with warm water and dish soap.

Fuck I am sick and tired of reading
>ItS bEcAuSe YoU dIdNt WiPe ThE bEd WiTh IpA.

[Anonymous No.2676511]

>>2676506
based retard

[Anonymous No.2676514]

>>2676506
fat fingered greasy hand retard can't clean his shit without a sink. what do you put pepperoni on the glass or are you just naturally that greasy?

[Anonymous No.2676537]

>>2676325
>>2676395
I just read about this now, but it seems the TMC2209 has a UART comms pin that can be used to dynamically set the motor current. It would be nice if you had a "rapids" mode where the steppers would all go up to 2A just for the short amount of time it takes to jog from one move to another. You could also do this using FETs on the AREF pin I guess.

I'd also like to drop the stepper current really low, so I can drive the hot end into the bed and measure the skipped step condition in order to level without a probe. And without damaging the bed, naturally.

[Anonymous No.2676548]

>>2676537
a feature to look forward to being standard in another few years, perhaps.
>>2676395
I put some dry PTFE lube on the 2020 extrusions and while it did make the motion smoother, it didnt help the vibration issue. Possibly a limitation of the bearings.

[Anonymous No.2676563]

>>2676548
>a feature to look forward to being standard in another few years, perhaps.
Pretty sure printer boards that come with more advanced stepper drivers like the TMC5160 should natively have this capability.

Not having to use a seperate bed level probe allows you to clear the print head for more extreme non-planar print angles. Though print-head docking methods like on the Annex K3 might still be fine.

[Anonymous No.2676564]

Woo, the dovetail works like a dream. No morning spaghetti. The holder is on the wrong angle, but I can reprint that part once I calculate the deviation.

[Anonymous No.2676605]

>>2676506
They hated him because he spoke the truth

[Anonymous No.2676615]

>>2676537
We already have Hybrid Threshold in Marlin:
/**
* TMC2130, TMC2160, TMC2208, TMC2209, TMC5130 and TMC5160 only
* The driver will switch to spreadCycle when stepper speed is over HYBRID_THRESHOLD.
* This mode allows for faster movements at the expense of higher noise levels.
* STEALTHCHOP_(XY|Z|E) must be enabled to use HYBRID_THRESHOLD.
* M913 X/Y/Z/E to live tune the setting
*/

You can also pepper in M907 with your slicer or a post-processor to dynamically adjust the current whenever you want, turning it up for crazy rapid travels for example.

[Anonymous No.2676616]

>>2676537
>I'd also like to drop the stepper current really low, so I can drive the hot end into the bed and measure the skipped step condition in order to level without a probe. And without damaging the bed, naturally.
This is also already a Marlin feature.

/**
* Use StallGuard2 to probe the bed with the nozzle.
* Requires stallGuard-capable Trinamic stepper drivers.
* CAUTION: This can damage machines with Z lead screws.
* Take extreme care when setting up this feature.
*/
//#define SENSORLESS_PROBING

[Anonymous No.2676631]

does anyone have experience testing different methods of connecting prints together? i need to know the strongest method

[Anonymous No.2676637]

>>2676514
I assume every anon is like this, you dont?

[Anonymous No.2676639]

I really want to get into 3D printing, but I do not have a garage or a workshop. Is it possible to print indoors without getting headaches or poisoned?

[Anonymous No.2676643]

>>2676639
>Is it possible to print indoors without getting headaches or poisoned?
Yes, I have an Ender 3 on my work desk and I work from home at my PC 40 hours a week, plus 10 hours a week gaming.

[Anonymous No.2676649]

does benchy actually works as a boat or is it just a piece of plastic that tips over by itself

[Anonymous No.2676653]

>>2676649
Apparently they're not normally supposed to float, but you can make them float if you adjust the size & infill. There are also alternate versions that are designed to float.

[Anonymous No.2676662]

>>2676653
oh cool

[Anonymous No.2676706]

>>2676615
M907 only works if your mainboard's MCU has DACs feeding the stepper drivers, or else it has digipots on them. Digipots are a nice idea in terms of only using 2 pins on the MCU for all the drivers, assuming they have enough different addresses. But with 8 pin packages you only get one extra pin for address setting.

>>2676616
Since most machines have screw-based Z, I wouldn't really trust this. Even belted Z could dent a PEI bed.

>>2676639
With an FDM printer that only prints low-melt plastics like PLA, sure. They are kinda noisy though.
I'd make sure you get a printer with silent stepper drivers, and probably upgrade the fans on the printer with ones from Noctua or whoever. May need to print custom fan ducts since Noctua don't make fans as small as you get on some printers.
If you care about noise, that is.

[Anonymous No.2676722]

I've been printing stuff for the escape room where I work, like prop replacements and puzzle components. I struck up a deal with my boss to print stuff from home using filament that they buy in exchange for some extra "maintenance" hours on the books.

I learned how to use basic free programs to make them and now I'm getting ready to put that knowledge toward designing and building a bigger, weird thing for myself.

This hobbie's fuckin fun bros...

[Anonymous No.2676742]

>>2676706
M906 is the equivalent for TMC drivers.

[Anonymous No.2676756]

>>2676742
These drivers only support current changing via the optional UART interface. Which simply aren't connected in most 3D printer mainboards in favour of hard-setting hardware pins like MS1, MS2, etc. The Creality mainboards just have the steppers connected via the step/direction pins and leave the UART pin tied to Vcc via a resistor.
The Einsy Rambo v1.1 uses a quad digipot to cover all 4 stepper drivers. I kinda prefer the UART method since you can also read and write other data, like changing microstepping amount and reading fault codes and such. If you want to detect stepper-specific faults, then it's far more efficient than having a seperate line to each driver's fault line.

Using UART to control TMC stepper current is a little bit time consuming (you need to calculate a CRC) but it's doable with a 32-bit mainboard so long as you're not doing it constantly. Using a dual-core MCU for this and having one core dedicated to UART comms would be good enough I think, even if it's to 8 seperate steppers (e.g. 3Z, 1X, 1Y, 3E). Though you would need a seperate UART interface for every 4 stepper drivers you're interfacing with. Honestly I'm liking the idea of a driverless main board that connects to stackable modular 4-stepper driver daughter boards more and more.

[Anonymous No.2676877]

>>2676756
>Which simply aren't connected in most bottom-tier 3D printer mainboards you find in <$150 printers
In addition to UART, there's also SPI for TMC drivers. It's been several years since I had a mainboard that didn't have both ready-to-go, pretty much since TMC drivers first became popular in 3D printers.

[Anonymous No.2676913]

I wonder if you can use a 3d printer to etch pcb. The idea is to print a layer of plastic on top of copper and those places would hopefully wouldn't be etched by the acid. So instead of ink, you use plastic

Would that work? I assume pla or petg wouldn't be affected so the question is if it sticks well to the copper

[Anonymous No.2676915]

>>2675810
I have a TPU spool (75A i think) i have officially borrowed from work that i have to return soon.
Before i do that i want to print something small, squishy and with big tits from it, but i want it to be something tasteful instead of just boring titty flashing stuff like cults is full of. I also want to have the model be as supportless as possible. I was thinking maybe a bust like that could work or something.
Anyone got any model recommendations?

[Anonymous No.2676921]

>>2676913
Works like garbage and can't make fine traces. Resin printers on the other hand can be used to directly expose PCBs for both etching and silkscreening, it's pretty fucking sweet and if it weren't for the cheap PCB prototyping services I think it'd catch on as the go-to for making PCBs at home.

[Anonymous No.2677012]

>>2676915
something from dnd or pokemon

[Anonymous No.2677089]

I have given myself to the botnet
I literally cannot envision myself fussing with building something similar

[Anonymous No.2677136]

>>2677089
Just install bambushit. Pair it with orca. Turn LAN mode on and check if it works. Back these files up only. Uninstall bambushit. Put these back in the location. Use orca slicer in LAN mode without having to log in and use the gay cloud.

[Anonymous No.2677210]

>>2675956
1. scale it down
2. obtain larger printer
3. cut off the bottom plate below feets
4. turn twist and/or angle so it fits. like you could put his back to the bed. you don't have to print upright (and shouldn't in many cases)
5. break it up into actual pieces instead of just cutting it up like a cake
or
6. try to hide the straight cuts in non-focus places

in other words
>get gud

[Anonymous No.2677212]

>>2677136
>he doesn't flood china servers with constant variations on dragon dildo files

[Anonymous No.2677221]

>>2676921
>can't make fine traces
what kind of printlet retard are you?

>>2676913
seems like it would work. getting the pre-etched board to be your level secure print bed might be an issue but I'm sure you could make a jig for a specific size board blank. removing the pla from the copper might be an issue unless you can just heat the whole post-etch board.

[Anonymous No.2677232]

>>2675810
I feel like no matter what I do I always find something frustrating with my ender 3 v2 or its prints, should I just get a bambu P1P?
Do they really just work out the box and I will never have to calibrate and level shit again?
There is a lot I'd like to print but I don't think I have the time or willpower to deal with troubleshooting my ender anymore.

[Anonymous No.2677240]

>>2677232
yes

[Anonymous No.2677249]

krautfag here, is pic related a somewhat good deal for someone trying to get into 3D printing? I just wanna print some small things off of thingiverse and later on try printing rectangle boxes (I guess in parts then) for building game controllers/arcade sticks.

[Anonymous No.2677250]

This chink shit p1p hot end replacement with cht nzzle is great. Max flow I tested at was 28mm/s.

[Anonymous No.2677300]

>>2677249
if you are able to get this shipped to you the bed is bigger and its on sale for 109 USD, and probably another 10 off on the code of the promo pic on the website.
https://kingroon.com/products/official-kingroon-kp3s-3d-printer

[Anonymous No.2677311]

what happened to thingverse, it wasn't as shitty before

[Anonymous No.2677314]

>>2677311
they tried to monetize it, and everyone sort of left for thangs and printables.

[Anonymous No.2677330]

I don’t think this is in the OP, but maybe i missed it.

I have been printing premade models on-and-off for over a year now, but watching a video about printing little houses for frogs and birds and stuff got me a little excited to try sculpting custom prints. There’s lots i could ask about this, but my basic question is should i use blender or is there a better alternative?

[Anonymous No.2677348]

>>2677330
If you're already familiar with Blender, I'd stick with it. There's a plugin for it to make it more CAD-like, and there's also some new meme Blender-inspired CAD program that looks quite powerful, not free but not hugely expensive. Sketchup Make 2017 or Tinkercad may be sufficient for what you're doing (it's fine for what I do) in which case they're really easy to get started with. Fusion 360 is sorta the go-to for a more advanced modelling software since it's free for non-commercial use. FreeCAD is potentially powerful but insufficiently polished. There are a few improved forks for it though.

[Anonymous No.2677394]

>Resin Printer in garage
>Resin likes to print at 25-30C

>Garage is 20C in the winter at best
>Garage is 33C during the summer

Goddammit.

[Anonymous No.2677396]

>>2676444
Clean bed with soapy water, get an enclosure, perhaps re level.

[Anonymous No.2677402]

in the middle of designing snap-in motherboard standoffs for my 3d printed pc case project
how thin can i have the lugs be? a #6-32 screw is already pretty thin to begin with, 3.5mm in diameter

[Anonymous No.2677410]

>try to put print on before work so it's ready once i'm home
>delaminates before i leave due to uneven bed (ender 3 v2)
>turn off printer
>end up working 3 hours longer than i planned
>get home
>take printer from cold garage into house
>take aluminium heated bed off to bend to be as flat as possible
>do the same with the bed carriage
>fasten nuts on the bed to keep the adjusting bolts as vertical as possible
>it looks dead-on
>reposition extruder while i'm at it
>put wheels back on carriage
>asymmetry looks opposite to my photo but it's probably fine
>screw bed down onto carriage
>forgot the belt
>unscrew belt from carriage again
>clip the belt back on
>screw carriage back together
>take printer back out to garage
>plug in
>home all axes
>doesn't hit y limit switch, skips steps until it calls a fault code
>the asymmetry was a cutout for the y stepper
>about this time the awful magic fm music from work starts to play in my head
>tear down bed and carriage again to flip wheels to the other side and put together again
>level bed
>still feels bowed, think maybe the x gantry is getting bent by the dual-z setup
>start print
>bed is taking ages to heat up again, as usual
>actually it's still at 15C
>the garage is at 15C
>the bed isn't getting hot at all
>unscrew bottom
>red wire was pushed into the wrong screw terminal
>fix and put together again
>start print
>seems to be working
>spend the next 15 minutes hanging around to see if it delaminates again
>it doesn't
>get back inside
>spend 15 minutes writing this
hope i tightened the y belt tensioner enough, how was everyone else's day?

[Anonymous No.2677431]

>>2677410
>Ender

Stopped reading there, you need some auto z leveling my dude.

[Anonymous No.2677450]

>>2677012
Needs to be more specific. I can find a ton of pokemon or dnd models, but most of them are going to be "Bare tits eevee" or "Trillion supports mommyndflayer"

[Anonymous No.2677451]

>>2677402
It's all about stress and strain.

[Anonymous No.2677462]

>>2677394
>25-30C
It's 20 minimum though, and the temperature i've had near-perfect results at in winter. And that was in a 12C building during winter at best witha heater.
Build a PTC heater and print/find somewhere to print a spacer lid for wires and you will be all set.

[Anonymous No.2677464]

>>2677462
Fuck, forgot pic.

[Anonymous No.2677479]

>>2677402
Print and test. At worst, treat them like 1 time use and print extra for if you have to move or reinstall them. As long as they hold the first time, they're good enough.

[Anonymous No.2677512]

>>2677221
you cold probably disable homing entirely in your gcode and move printer head manually where you want 0,0,0 to be (and make nozzle firmly press against the pcb)

And then run a modified gcode that starts from there

[Anonymous No.2677565]

Another Kraut here
>Mega S for 80€
>Fly E3 pro for 40€
>cht clone nozzle for 1€
Maybe in the future:
>Orbiter
>Revo
Ok plan, or am i thinking too cheapskate here?

>>2677249
Ruhrgebiet? I think same offer is floating on Ebay.

[Anonymous No.2677614]

Ender 3 v2 with the basic ultimajer cura .12 profile
Printed 215/60

How fix

[Anonymous No.2677618]

>>2677221
>>2676921
I did some experiments, it looks like it is not sticking well to copper but that might be also due to me not being able to properly level Z. But it looks promising, the lines are clean at least when they are able to stick. I will try a bit more later this week

[Anonymous No.2677627]

>>2677394
print in the fall and spring I guess, lol.

[Anonymous No.2677628]

>>2676913
>>2677618
Mmmm thick traces. Yes, this has been done in a variety of ways, both making masks and printing directly on the copper. It's not a great technique, but fun to try if you have the stuff on hand. If you want to seriously etch PCBs at home, a resin printer is phenomenal for exposing boards controllably and at a high resolution with great ease.

[Anonymous No.2677629]

>>2677402
turn that 90º so the slot is vertical and it will be a lot stronger than printing it upright on the base.

[Anonymous No.2677636]

>>2677614
Part cooling (needs to be more than just one side otherwise you have a shielded direction that doesn't get much cooling).
Temperature calibration (to reduce the oozing). 215 is quite high for PLA, try 200.
Retractions (to relieve the pressure that causes oozing).

[Anonymous No.2677668]

>>2677431
I'm printing mechanical parts, having a wavy bottom surface isn't acceptable. The bed itself needs to be flat.

[Anonymous No.2677700]

>>2677210
>1. scale it down
>2. obtain larger printer
>3. cut off the bottom plate below feets
>4. turn twist and/or angle so it fits. like you could put his back to the bed. you don't have to print upright (and shouldn't in many cases)
I want it larger than and standard printer will print

>5. break it up into actual pieces instead of just cutting it up like a cake
>or
>6. try to hide the straight cuts in non-focus places
Literally what I was asking.
I generally print useful things, not statues or figures

[Anonymous No.2677725]

>>2677628
Seems like a lot of work. How is this better than using a laser printer?

[Anonymous No.2677735]

>>2677348
Thanks for the software choices and idea!

[Anonymous No.2677736]

>>2677725
well, if you don't have a laser printer

[Anonymous No.2677737]

>>2676051
Going to be very difficult to remove and may break in the process, unless you have a flexplate.

Team: does anyone have an opinion on my getting an Anycubic Cobra 2 instead of a P1P? Its a lot cheaper and should print just as fast. Does anyone have an Anycubic kobra 2?

[Anonymous No.2677738]

>>2677725
It's not, a laser printer is way better. Or a resin 3D printer, which skips even more steps and is even easier.

[Anonymous No.2677742]

>>2677737
>Anycubic Cobra 2 instead of a P1P? Its a lot cheaper and should print just as fast
Can't tell if you're joking. There's no comparison between these printers. The P1P is far higher quality, has a larger build volume, and is an order of magnitude faster than the Kobra 2. There is absolutely no comparison between the two.

[Anonymous No.2677743]

>>2677742
Yeah, but is it $400 better? I don’t know anyone with one, and you cant trust reviews anymore, they’re all paid for.

[Anonymous No.2677744]

Also they both (pro kobra 2) top out at 500mm/s and 20000ms/s

[Anonymous No.2677754]

>>2677743
I'd argue that it is, not that it's not without drawbacks of its own, but hell yes I'd say it's $400 better than an Anycubic Ender Clone

[Anonymous No.2677757]

>>2677743
>Yeah, but is it $400 better?
Mostly yes. However look towards P1S and the question "Is it $500 better?" becomes a clear yes.

Don't trust max speeds on cheap bedslingers. They're always exaggerated, way more than higher priced alternatives and stonewall fast once you reach taller build heights.

Might as well do as >>2677565, which btw is absolutely viable, if you're a poorfag. Assuming the machine is used at 80€, check if all parts still work, major dents, etc. before ordering.
Although at $200 you might choose a beefier starting machine to throw a proper board into after.

[Anonymous No.2677760]

>>2677754
>>2677757
Thanks for the input! And how is the AMS thing, if I’m going to be splurging? I know the Prusa version is trash, does the bambu one work well?

[Anonymous No.2677761]

>>2676444
Soapy water, fuck ipa.
What material? If PLA then personally I'd lower the bed temp. Make sure the bed is level.

[Anonymous No.2677780]

>>2677450
Sauce on that file?

[Anonymous No.2677831]

>>2677668
In that case, it's better to lift the part off the bed by 6mm and use supports to cradle the part.

[Anonymous No.2677835]

>>2677760
It's "better" than Prusa's MMU, but it's still far from reliable in my opinion. If you do some very minor mods to it and use specific brands and varieties of filament, it can be very good. Plenty of people have extremely good experiences with the AMS, often those same people are only using Bambu branded filament.

[Anonymous No.2677841]

>>2677835
Okay, I’ll give the MMU a miss! Just clicked purchase on the P1S, time to throw my ender up on ebay.

[Anonymous No.2677856]

>Being this paranoid about Resin Printing
KWAB

[Anonymous No.2677900]

>>2677856
Might be good for those people that run the printer in their living room or bedroom, though.

[Anonymous No.2677902]

>buy $150 printer
>spend $400 in upgrades/fixes
>printer worse than a $550 printer

Every time

[Anonymous No.2677915]

>>2676913
It's much better to just buy a ~5W laser diode, bolt it to your printer, spray black lacquer onto the FR4, and burn it away with the laser. I recommend using Lightburn's offset infill. Pic related, though it's from before I added laser thickness correction to my SVG processing script. I'm currently constructing a quick-change tool holder to swap between the laser and a drill. I'll need to write another script to convert the drill gerber to G-code, but it should be reasonably straightforward. Getting the solder mask thin enough to burn easily (without burning the FR4) is proving tough though.

UVtools via a resin printer also works decently, though I found the contrast wasn't good enough for my chinky dry film photoresist with a single mono LCD. Double LCD or DLP would almost certainly work perfectly. If you can find a printer with a broken tray, stepper motor, linear rail, etc. you can likely get it a lot cheaper than new.
I think it would be possible to do liquid solder mask squeezed via FEP film with an MSLA printer. I found it cured well but stuck too much to the transparency I was using.

[Anonymous No.2677918]

>>2676454
see if you can find "slice gap closing radius" setting and increase it slightly. might help.

[Anonymous No.2677921]

>>2677918
^disregard, misread

[Anonymous No.2677925]

>>2677760
>AMS
know that cardboard spools won't always work in AMS. you have to mod the cardboard spool (or put tape on the edges) or respool onto a plastic spool.

AMS works great for supports with bambu brand support materials. very good quality.

[Anonymous No.2677936]

Hey Anon, I need some help. My Ender-3 S1 is scratching the model with fan frame while print. How to fix it?

[Anonymous No.2677938]

>>2677936
Print a new fan shroud

[Anonymous No.2677941]

>>2677902
Go on, anon. What did you spend 400€ in upgrades on? It's not like 550€ is still unenclosed bedslinger tier..

[Anonymous No.2677968]

>>2677902
shoulda bought a bambu

[Anonymous No.2677969]

>>2677780
https://cults3d.com/ru/3d-model/shalosti/vaporeon-nsfw

[Anonymous No.2678017]

>>2677902

>buy ender 3
>Go over whole printer tightening loose bolts adjusting wheels etc
>decide to do z belt mod
>40 USD

Best mod I ever did desu, none of that gantry moving fractions of a mm people acting like its not a big deal when .1 mm is enough to have bad adhesion.

also recomment
>direct drive mini sherpa
>downside is needing a new cooling system
>use hero me
>surprisingly works great

Also 32 bit controller board, and you're set. IDK what 400 dollars you dropped but I feel bad for you anon.

[Anonymous No.2678070]

>>2678017
Sure it was the belt mod and not just a sudden double Z?

[Anonymous No.2678075]

Sup print-niggers!
Back in 2019 I got a unused CR-10 mini for free by a colleague.
Now when I decided to give it some new life. And I also want to learn to mod a printer.
So far I have bought a clone bltouch
And a skr E3 mini V2.
Plus a direct drive unit from 3d prima.

What other kind of upgrades can I do?
Will a Z belt mod be worth it?

[Anonymous No.2678085]

>>2677760
>>2677925
I have a lot of trouble with cheap black plastic spools, they're fine at first but then warp. For cardboard you can print collars. The other problem is occasionally a spool + small amount of filament is just too fucking light to pull back. I need to redesign the spool to spool jig I printed, it's full of unnecessary mechanics and parts but they didn't even secure the bases.

Oh the cups also get roached by filament. There are shields you can print tho, I haven't bothered.

[Anonymous No.2678147]

>>2675810
Printing outside today, how're y'alls printers holding up?

[Anonymous No.2678151]

>>2678147
Mine's idling and pissing itself ready to print the next big upgrade™

[Anonymous No.2678280]

>want to add second Z limit switch to 3D printer so my drill bit can touch off on it
>measure existing switch with DMM
>it's using the "normally closed" contacts so I can't just put the switches in parallel
I think they just go in series? Yeah that makes sense.

[Anonymous No.2678285]

I bought a Anycube Photon S used about a year ago for $200. At the time it had the usual stuff that came with the printer minus a power brick. Along with a fingernail dryer as the lights, and solar turntable.

I have been fdm printing for about 6 years now and always wanted to try, so i did and don't like it. Now i want to get rid of this printer again on the used market. I still have everything but the turntable and i bought a new power brick.

Is this still a $200 CAD used setup?

[Anonymous No.2678287]

>>2677969
Thanks, anon. I'll file it away for educational reasons.

[Anonymous No.2678292]

>>2678285
Things must be different in Canada. Even a year ago that was a $60USD setup. You can get a better printer brand-new for $100-$160USD. Are resin printers overpriced up there in Canadialand?

[Anonymous No.2678299]

>>2678075
>direct drive unit from 3d prima
Sup, retard. This could be anything.
If you haven't yet, get an ABL probe like bl-touch or superpinda.

>>2678147
Dreaming of ABS, shitting PETG.

>>2678280
>go in series
Pretty much.

[Anonymous No.2678309]

>>2678280
>>2678299
There we have it. Having auto-tool height sensing feels more advanced than a lot of the cheap CNC routers out there. With any luck I'll be auto-drilling PCB holes any day now.

[Anonymous No.2678312]

>>2678309
Clever wiring there, good job anon.

[Anonymous No.2678320]

>Still ships with OSHW logo
>Still hasn't released any schematics
At this point i'm convinced he's just testing the waters on how much he can shit on his supporters. Can't wait till they actually compare him to Jobs.

[Anonymous No.2678335]

>>2678070
>https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3

This is the mod I am referring to. There is new versions where you can use two motors, but I find that to be useless unless you have controller board to independently control each one.

[Anonymous No.2678363]

>achieved +/- 0.002" with glass fiber nylon
now to repeat the feat with annealed parts

[Anonymous No.2678372]

>>2678320
>no mains heated bed
>no heat-sinks on stepper drivers
looks kinda shit

[Anonymous No.2678379]

>>2678372
It's extremely expensive shit.

[Anonymous No.2678390]

What's the cheapest method(printer or printer + upgrade?) for me to get a fast printer (20mm^3/s+??) to print functional parts quickly?

[Anonymous No.2678395]

>>2678390
My guess is k3ps + accelerometer for input shaping + tuning of linear advance and temperature and stuff. Maybe a custom high-flow hot-end like a volcano or whatever.

Disclaimer:
I don't actually know how fast 20mm^3/s is.

[Anonymous No.2678454]

>>2675810
can i flip the magnetic bed that came with the bambu and print ABS on the engineering plate side (with glue stick)? or would the higher bed temps ruin the side intended for PLA?

[Anonymous No.2678459]

>>2678390
You can easily reach 20mm3/s on some clapped out ender3. Get a cheat volcano clone hotend, get a 0.8mm clone CHT volcano nozzle and print 60mm/s at 0.4 layer height

[Anonymous No.2678460]

>>2678459
Cheap volcano clone*

[Anonymous No.2678490]

>>2678390
>>2678395
The thing is, I am all for suggesting kp3s Ihave one with printed base mod, and I have a kp3s pro.

But the printable options are limited as hell. After I switched to a clone V6, it was too short for stock parts cooling duct and had to do a herome setup since thats the only one at the time with adjustable part cooling ducts.

On my pro I just did all metal heatbreak on that v5 they have.

Actually I will keep what I already typed, but it seems there is a parts cooling duct for volcano hotends on titan extruder kp3s
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5331554

[Anonymous No.2678499]

>>2678454
I print everything on the cool plate with glue stick: PLA, ABS, ASA, PETG. Everything except PLA printed at 70C bed temp min, I go up to 80C. The cool plate used to say PLA/PETG/ABS but they changed it shortly after my generation of printer. This is ABS.

Also REEEE why the fuck can't I change the ACTUAL defaults in bambu lab slicer, god damn flush to infill got me again.

[Anonymous No.2678515]

>>2678499
Why are you not using Orca Slicer? Use Orca Slicer.

[Anonymous No.2678568]

just realized my resin expired last month and that resin can even expire, think il find random stuff to print to use it up

[Anonymous No.2678644]

>>2675823
who the hell cares about made in America in the current year? like your industrial core produces anything worthwhile and quality anymore. laughable.

[Anonymous No.2678685]

>>2678515
god dammit fuck you fuck off, I'm installing it okay. for fucks sake.

[Anonymous No.2678729]

Pouring resin down the drain is bad, is it safe to use UV light on the little bit of excess resin leftover in the resin vat or will that eventually damage it / cake up layers?
Same question for print plate

[Anonymous No.2678752]

>>2678729
Why not wash it into a container other than the resin vat and cure it in there? Like a paper cup or snap-lock bag.

[Anonymous No.2678769]

>>2678729
I think you're supposed to pour/wipe it out uncured. Resin curing to the display or vat is very bad and hard to remove.

Also you can pour the resin back in the bottle and reuse.

[Anonymous No.2678771]

How do you access the hidden settings in Orca then? Everything is a fucking video. Like for example how do I show z gap for supports?

[Anonymous No.2678811]

>>2678752
>>2678769
I pour most of it back with a plastic scraper and a filter, but there’s always that little bit that sticks around
Alcohol helps get rid of it, but using a vat of alcohol is a lot of it so i want to avoid that
Might just have to reuse the tub

[Anonymous No.2678842]

>just wrote code that automatically generates drill gcode files for pcbs
prepare yourselves

[Anonymous No.2678902]

Any alternatives to freecad for adding chamfers without getting dragged into subscriptions and cloud shit? It does work, but i'm getting tired of it constantly crashing.

>>2678390
Mod some used ender, if you know what you're doing/going for. Otherwise KP3S, SV06 depending on your budget.

[Anonymous No.2678915]

>>2678902
OnShape but it's always online
Fusion360 but it's hard to learn/convoluted

[Anonymous No.2678919]

>>2678915
>Fusion360 but it's hard to learn/convoluted
Anon is coming from freecad. They literally work the exact same way.
Also its cloud, so not remotely close to what hes asking for.

[Anonymous No.2678921]

>>2678919
well fuck off or make a better suggestion faggot

[Anonymous No.2678922]

>>2678921
I'd suggest Fusion360, but anon apparently likes to do their shit innawoods with no internet so anything "cloud" in unacceptable.

[Anonymous No.2678962]

>>2678922
>anon apparently likes to do their shit innawoods with no internet so anything "cloud" in unacceptable
Pretty much and wait till i tell you it has to run on Linux as well.
Jokes aside, i know chances are slim, but gotta check once in a while if maybe i just missed something.

[Anonymous No.2678973]

>>2678962
Fusion360 works offline, and runs extremely well on Linux through Wine.

[Anonymous No.2679020]

thoughts on the creality 3d scanner, been thinking of investing in some sort of scanner and i can pick one up for 420 leaf bucks

[Anonymous No.2679044]

>>2678922
>but anon apparently likes to do their shit innawoods with no internet so anything "cloud" in unacceptable.
Look at this retard who is giving away his IP rights to autodesk to use and sell to 3rd parties.

[Anonymous No.2679056]

>>2679044
Look at this retard who hasn't read the Fusion 360 ToS.

[Anonymous No.2679116]

>>2678973
>>2678902
https://github.com/cryinkfly/Autodesk-Fusion-360-for-Linux/
Havn't tried it recently, it's supposed to work.

[Anonymous No.2679118]

>>2679116
Runs well on my Steam Deck, which runs Arch, btw.

[Anonymous No.2679120]

hopefully a softball baby question. what can be done about this?
vertical circles/ semicircles are printed squashed.

[Anonymous No.2679121]

>>2679120
should maybe mention currently do not have any part cooling. is this the result of each layer being too hot and flattening?

[Anonymous No.2679124]

>>2679121
overhangs need part cooling otherwise they sag, though i don't know if you're doing internal or external circles, if it's external then the bottom would sag so it would actually be bigger

[Anonymous No.2679125]

About to buy a Peopoly Phenom Forge, any objections?

[Anonymous No.2679127]

>>2679124
right should have clarified. this is actually manifesting in semicircles which should print without any support.

[Anonymous No.2679129]

>>2679127
Does it happen only on circular features? If everything you print is squashed then it's likely just your Z steps-per-mm ratio being wrong. If it is just on circular features, I'd guess an anomaly in your stl or slicer.

[Anonymous No.2679131]

>>2679129
i havent checked yet,its just most obvious with the circles. but is Z steps-per-mm usually adjustable with messing with firmware?

[Anonymous No.2679133]

>>2679131
*without

[Anonymous No.2679134]

>>2679131
>but is Z steps-per-mm usually adjustable with messing with firmware?
Depends on the printer, but I think it should be in the settings accessible on the printer's own screen. Otherwise it may be a matter of plugging in via USB like you would to perform a PID autotune. I doubt you'd have to recompile Marlin.

Also check that your Z rails/belts are in good nick, and aren't binding or slipping. Run the printer up 100mm and down again to see if it comes back to the same spot.

[Anonymous No.2679137]

>>2679134
thanks. will poke around and see

[Anonymous No.2679246]

Just bought an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro
What should I print first when it gets here?

[Anonymous No.2679274]

New to 3d printing but I picked up the new Ender 3 v3 SE and it seems to do pretty good on mostly default settings. Vase mode definitely speeds things up

[Anonymous No.2679293]

>>2679246
>>2679274

[Anonymous No.2679368]

Alright I switched to Orca and this shit is still happening. How tf do I manage infill color? Note the face, fingers and scarf section.

[Anonymous No.2679377]

>>2677856
Seems like curing is a good idea.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8600644/

[Anonymous No.2679388]

I've been using cura, can I get a QRD on slicers?

The supports it generates are a bit too dense and annoying for my liking, is there any good way to generate them differently or preview what they look like?

I'm assuming that slicers generate the raw move instructions for the printer. But I've also heard that "Vase mode" or similar can have issues, how come?

[Anonymous No.2679407]

>>2679388
I like orca, but allegedly prusa is the best.

[Anonymous No.2679410]

>>2679407
yeah orca a best, tf?

>>2679388
do you know what vase mode is? a single line that prints the bottom and outline of a solid shape. if you have flat planes (too horizontal) going up or it's not a solid shape you get issues because it's one path up. it's best for vases and keeps them from leaking. there is no z seam.

tree supports are often better than traditional supports and you have a lot of control. cura seems to have more control over supports than orca/bambu, but recently the default supports in bambu have been really good. i don't know what they changed and I haven't compared in orca yet. You might as well switch to orca and play around, it's supposedly better but I only just switched.

[Anonymous No.2679411]

>>2679388
vase mode illustration, note you're slicing a solid shape

[Anonymous No.2679413]

>>2679120
show print?

[Anonymous No.2679417]

>download files for a printable airsoft rifle shell
>3dviewer won't open the files
>use my slicer instead to view them and organize
>accidentally drop one on the desktop and double click it
>it opens
Why is my 3dviewer only working on files on my desktop, but won't work with anything that's in a folder?

[Anonymous No.2679423]

>>2679388
Orca and PrusaSlicer, not much reason to consider anything else right now, both are phenomenal.

[Anonymous No.2679427]

>>2679388
in cura yes there's loads of ways to mess with the supports. most of these settings are not visible by default so you'll have to enable them yourself. top right, there's a box that has your object name in it, clicking that opens the general settings. then there's a little button if you hover over 'Support' in this menu, it's three lines with some dots on them. that'll open this settings visibility menu and show you all the settings options you can mess with. there's one that's 'support density' and that might be exactly what you want. you can also find settings by searching for them specifically and will display them even if their visibility isnt enabled.
to preview them, after slicing hit 'preview' and then on the center top of the window should be a bar that says 'Color Scheme' click that, and then make sure 'helpers' is ticked and it'll show you the supports in blue.
I've kinda assumed you're completely clueless because I've found that giving instructions to someone and assuming otherwise can be the opposite of helpful

[Anonymous No.2679433]

now you have heard about 3D printing, but have you heard about MASS-PRODUCTION 3-D PRINTING?

[Anonymous No.2679434]

>>2679433
>Efficiency is fantasy, made up by the bourgeoise Chinese factory owners in order to oppress you.

[Anonymous No.2679578]

I bought a Anycubic Photo years ago and never touched it because I'm stupid/lazy

I wanna start 3D printing ZBrush models, is it still any good? Should I bother or get a brand new one and hope I won't be stupid/lazy this time.

>>2678285
Are you sorta me?

[Anonymous No.2679580]

>>2679578
Sorry, Photon S

[Anonymous No.2679604]

>>2679580
the resin might have expired. regardless shake well and try it, other wise you should be fine.

[Anonymous No.2679617]

>>2678372
The metal case is the heat sink for the drivers.

[Anonymous No.2679669]

>>2679617
Is the board pressed flat against the back panel? Even then it's not brilliant, I imagine the case is just a thin bit of steel. Might be able to dump a couple of watts from each driver.

[Anonymous No.2679700]

just ordered the Ender-3 V2 neo, how'd I do lads
I'm eager to start printing shit and posting it here

[Anonymous No.2679705]

>>2679700
right before Ender 3 V3 release?

[Anonymous No.2679706]

>>2679617
I don't think you know what a heatsink is.

>>2679669
It's mounted on standoffs, of course, and there are no heatsinks. However, those drives have big thermal pads on the underside, each soldered to a big pile of vias. They do a very good job of dissipating heat through the board. Prusa is still retarded for not using active cooling on their printers.

[Anonymous No.2679707]

>>2679700
It's ok. There's nothing glaringly wrong with it that you'll want to immediately upgrade from. It has belt tensioners, a bed level probe, a PEI bed, a 32-bit board, silent stepper drivers, etc.

The first thing I'd consider upgrading would be dual-Z, rigidity via tie-rods, a new hot-end, maybe an enclosure or direct-drive. Though it depends on what you plan to do with it.

>>2679705
What's new in the V3? And how does it compare to the V2 Neo and the S1?

[Anonymous No.2679708]

>>2679706
>It's mounted on standoffs
There are some boards deliberately designed to have a completely flat side. Like this RGBduino, pic related is the back. All the socket headers are SMD soldered, which means you can't actually use it with arduino uno shields so it's half useless.

I programmed the onboard buzzer to play megalovania.

[Anonymous No.2679712]

>>2679707
>What's new in the V3? And how does it compare to the V2 Neo and the S1?
we don't know. we will know in a week

[Anonymous No.2679748]

What does the Bambu P1P/P1S use for Z calibration? I can't find this somehow. I'm probably retarded though.

[Anonymous No.2679756]

>>2679748
>I'm probably retarded though.
Pretty much. They use load cells.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-the-heatbed-force-sensor

[Anonymous No.2679759]

>>2677700
>I want it larger than and standard printer will print
How large do you want it? "Standard" printers go up to half a meter cubed.

[Anonymous No.2679762]

>>2676454
Printing supports tight to a printed surface will cause them to fuse. With a gap (as specified by the motion system), the extruded filament will drape onto the underlying surface without squishing or fusing much. Successive layers will make up the difference in layer height.

[Anonymous No.2679764]

>>2677941
>It's not like 550€ is still unenclosed bedslinger tier..
Gotta go up an order of magnitude for the Lulzbots mentioned in the OP guide.

[Anonymous No.2679787]

>>2679759
>up to half a meter cubed
About that size, roughly twice the size of an Ender 3 bed. Most printers only go up to 300 for the larger ones. I know there are larger ones available, but they are also very expensive and take up too much space. Not really worth upgrading to something like that just for a single print.
I plan to upgrade to a higher-end printer in the future, but I am waiting for the next iteration of Bambu Labs type of printers

[Anonymous No.2679851]

>>2679118
Steam deck runs the bleeding-edge version of wine, that's how they get all those pc games to run. As far as I know, Valve is driving all development in wine at the moment.

[Anonymous No.2679881]

>>2679748
It appears to use sensorless homing, which uses a feature in many stepper drivers called stallguard, I think. Basically the stepper driver looks for a change in current to the stepper caused by the stepper meeting resistance from running the printhead or gantry into something

[Anonymous No.2679883]

>>2679881
3 piezo sensors within the bed assembly. https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/heatbed-sensor-unit

[Anonymous No.2679884]

okay so I want to try this building a printer thing...
I want to build a small one first
do I build
>voron 0.2
>the 100
>panda mini
>rook
anyone built one of these? or something else entirely
recommendations?

[Anonymous No.2679888]

>>2679884
Do a Rook because it's cheap, simple, and plenty good enough to be worth owning.
Do the 100 because you GOTTA GO FAST but still don't want to break the bank, and you're willing to put in more effort.
Do the Voron because you want a painfully good printer, and you're willing to pay it forward with blood, cash, and the time required to not just build one, but actually build a good one.
Build a Panda Mini because Vorons are too popular and you want to spend as much Patreon money as possible on a great printer that'll also make for a great series of build videos with clickbait thumbnails.

[Anonymous No.2679893]

>>2679274
>Ender 3 v3

I also bought one, just 200 dollars, its a steal, for sure it dominates the budget market. I used to have the ender 3 v2 but the non direct drive was a killer. This one is pretty good.

>>2675810
So anyone have any good print ideas? I tried printing some gun replica models (non functional) but the 1mm wall it always fucks up no matter what. Not sure if I want to do a semi auto crossbow again as its a pain in the ass to make one.

Anything else cool in the last few months?

[Anonymous No.2679896]

>>2679707
>>2679712
v3 basically has all the tweaks that you want to print in better quality once you run a v2 for a while. Direct drive and its sprite head is all metal. It tugs along the filament nicely. It has a build in automatic bed leveling, also z axis offset is automatic (but flimsy by my own experience). Yea the biggest benefit is the immediate step up in quality, but also speed. Dual z axis.

Like I said, it has all the things that you want if you run a v2 for a while. And you dont have to mess with the menu since it has the features you want already. Near 200 dollar and entry level, look no further, there is nothing better.

[Anonymous No.2679913]

>>2676178
the original ender 3 comes with a screw adjuster here instead of the knob, so people have made designs for this already.

maybe creality will sell you a replacement

[Anonymous No.2679942]

>>2679433
Unironically, it depends on what you're "mass manufacturing"

[Anonymous No.2679950]

hello niggas, i'm slowly building a 3d printer farm, I currently have one p1p and ive ordered a p1s. Every time i get a filament spool i always calibrate the pressure advance and I stick a label on each spool and I select the correct spool in the slicer every time so this way i have a kind of "inventory" of my materials that are calibrated after the first use.

my question is do i have to have a separate setting for the PA for the p1s since its a different printer or would they be identical since the hot end is basically the same? do I have to calibrate new spools on both printers now?

[Anonymous No.2679956]

>>2679896
>Direct drive
>Dual z axis
How's that different to the Ender 3 S1?

[Anonymous No.2679961]

>me
>spend life drawing, esp. people
>git gud
>buy ipad pro this year
>try nomad sculpt
>holy fuck its easier than drawing
>can pretty much sculpt anything I want

Can I make money with this? I always wrote off working for a studio, but it would be super cool to make a few extra bucks cranking out a request on the side once a month or something.

[Anonymous No.2679963]

>>2679961
sometimes i have clients that need something printer from a picture, what are you expecting price-wise? i can give you some projects from time to time

[Anonymous No.2679965]

>>2679961
Just saw a post on fb from someone wanting to know if there was a way to create a 3D model of their labrador that just died so he could print it to give to his kids. Not the first time I have seen that question. Could probably make money doing that if you can model things efficiently. It wouldn't make sense if you charge $100 but it takes you 4 days to madel it.

[Anonymous No.2679967]

>>2679787
>roughly twice the size of an Ender 3 bed
So a CR-10 Max.

[Anonymous No.2679968]

>>2679967
I don't have a CR-10 Max and don't want to spend $800 on one for a single print. I am waiting for Bambu to come out with an X1L, which is expected sometime in the next 6 months or so, but even then I will probably need to split the model

[Anonymous No.2679974]

>>2679884
>waiting for Bambu to come out with an X1L, which is expected sometime in the next 6 months or so
Expected by whom?

>>2679961
Besides the other suggestions, might also look into DnD characters and such. Especially the 40k crowd is huge on spending for custom models.

>>2679884
>the 100
>rook
Shit.
>voron 0.2
Tried and tested. Hard to fuck up.
>panda mini
Dunno who actually built one, but looks like a usable ABS machine. Also less custom parts like the Voron. Would be the most interesting option for me as well.

[Anonymous No.2679990]

>>2679974
By me

[Anonymous No.2680002]

>>2679965
you get the shovel, i'll get the 3d scanner, we'll make megabux i'm sure

[Anonymous No.2680033]

>>2679950
any1?

[Anonymous No.2680045]

>>2680033
I mean the only reason to do this in the first place is A) if you had a problem or 2) you're autistic.

So don't bother doing it with the p1s and see if you have another problem. If you have a problem you need to do it. If otoh you're simply autistic then you will have to answer because nobody else here is that autistic.

t. I have shoved every kind of filament down two printers and never bothered with a single calibration, not cube not flow not fucking nothing.

[Anonymous No.2680047]

>>2680002
any Labrador will. I found this for various prices and it looked like my neighbors dog. I found free versions of the head of said dog and the body in that pose of another. I spliced them and low poly the results and didn't upload my low poly fucking bullshit for money because I'm not a faggot. but if you want to that's how you do it, remix free shit and crank out low poly versions and charge for them hoping someone is desperate enough to throw you a few bux.

[Anonymous No.2680048]

>>2679961
if you can accept /tg/ niggers stealing everything you do and are good enough to do a kickstarter or attract a paypig than you can't go wrong. what is nomad sculpt? it's fucking apple specific isn't it.

[Anonymous No.2680062]

>>2680045
>because nobody else here is that autistic.
Is that a challenge?

[Anonymous No.2680228]

Hello my fellow 3d printing racists.

I have recently setup my Creality Halot One and have had my first print fail. It solidified on the bottom of the vat chamber and was quite gay.
I'm trying my second print now and hopefully it goes better.

I want to download lots of warhammer models for free because I am a racist nigger. Where do you suggest I get high quality warhammer models from? Thingiverse is cucked and doesn't have any.

Thanks!

[Anonymous No.2680232]

>>2680228
Wrong board.

[Anonymous No.2680234]

>>2680232
>wrong board
>diy board
>3d printing thread

you've been inhaling those resin fumes, haven't ya?

[Anonymous No.2680252]

>>2679706
>I don't think you know what a heatsink is.
A mass of metal meant to soak up heat and transfer it to the ambient medium. Doesn't need to have fins.

[Anonymous No.2680294]

>>2677629
i don't think so
if it's printed upright then it would be weakened across the standoff
these standoffs have to support the weight of the parts

[Anonymous No.2680300]

>>2680234
>Warhammer models
>Diy
Anon I ...

[Anonymous No.2680301]

>>2680228
Wrong board. >>>/tg/3dpg

>>2680234
We don't huff acrylic here.

>>2680252
Right, and you think the steel case is a heatsink to the board despite them only being attached by standoffs, isolating the board from the case. Protip, if there's a 4mm air gap, it's not going to transfer heat well.

[Anonymous No.2680309]

How hard is ABS to print on a stock ender 3 pro?
I have been out of the game for several years. I need to print something functional today, and ABS is the only thing I can find. I bought it and printed with it

[Anonymous No.2680315]

>>2680309
Slap it in an enclosure, you're good to go.

[Anonymous No.2680328]

>>2679956
more complete package, more modern in various other ways. Dont bother with any other printers unless you need 300x300 for that price range just dont

[Anonymous No.2680356]

>>2680301
There are heatpads on the driver backsides that connect them to the case.

[Anonymous No.2680369]

>>2680309
>I bought it and printed with it
so, what is the problem?

[Anonymous No.2680378]

Looking into upgrading to a direct extruder, what's the hype of the orbiter about, when the sherpa mini/micro seems to beat it in every category, but raw strength?

[Anonymous No.2680413]

>>2680356
Thank you for explaining, had to go to the MK4 assembly guide just to see it.

[Anonymous No.2680420]

>>2677565
Mega S is the most based machine of Anycubic. Mine:
>stock mainboard
>silent drivers
>volcano hotend, 0,6 nozzle (probably redundant since CHT)
>mosfets
>no part cooling because I can't be bothered to mount it and it werks fine with PETG
>octoprint
>bondtech clone extruder
>stock print profile in cura
>bed was setted and forgetted
It just werks. And werks, and werks. It's the VW Käfer of 3d printing.

[Anonymous No.2680427]

>>2680420
Forgot:
>bi-metal heatbreak and silent fan
Heatbreak is probably the only upgrade that's -really- needed, because of PTFE tube degradation.

[Anonymous No.2680462]

>>2680427
I've got an anycubic kobra neo, and after about 3 months of use the degradation on the ptfe tube heatbreak was immediately apparent with some visual warping and discoloration, so I can back that up.

[Anonymous No.2680524]

>>2680228
you should get some glow in the dark resin to go with that post

[Anonymous No.2680525]

>>2680294
>if it's printed upright
did I say turn it upright? read it again einstein.

[Anonymous No.2680608]

What would you make of this first layer? Some places it’s spot on others it’s like I’m printing nothing at all. Warped bed?

[Anonymous No.2680612]

>>2680608
I get that on my delta too, it's not as extreme but definitely noticeable. I have no idea why

[Anonymous No.2680615]

>>2680608
r-kinematics moment

[Anonymous No.2680643]

>>2680525
ok then, genius, tell me this: in which direction should i turn it 90º?

[Anonymous No.2680647]

>>2680643
That anon is retarded but he is also right, it would probably be easier to print if the slot is vertical, meaning cockwise or anticockwise

[Anonymous No.2680654]

My coworker has a Sovol SV07 I think. And it keeps shitting filament under the silicone sock and entombing the hot end. Is this a known issue? Apparently the newer units have cooling fans on both sides of the nozzle, while his only has one, and he thinks that might be causing the filament to curve in that one direction. I told him to just ditch the stock part cooling if not the entire hot end.

Anyone else had this issue?

[Anonymous No.2680668]

I tuned my flow ratio with Orca calibration and everything looks good at 1.045 but on an actual print I'm getting over extrusion on the top layer. Lowered it back down to 0.98 and it looks much better. Anyone know why?

[Anonymous No.2680675]

>>2675810
>People are genuinely believing bambu is making a multiplexer that would be compatible with anything that's NOT a bambu

[Anonymous No.2680681]

>>2679120
e-steps are the stepper motors travel steps to a distance if they are wrong then the dimensions will be off

[Anonymous No.2680683]

>>2680643
9000 hours in GIMP.

[Anonymous No.2680730]

I'm printing a jig to mill out 80% AR lowers. how many walls should i choose in the slicer?

how fast can i print with an elegoo neptune 2?

[Anonymous No.2680738]

>>2680730
depends just do it solid 100% for a rigid block linewith just means how thick before infill begins between features

[Anonymous No.2680756]

>>2680647
i made some modifications after a test print and now it looks like a cock

[Anonymous No.2680760]

>>2680420
>>2680427
Hey Mega S bro, i since found a machine with a broken board for 45€, so i went in. I'm now waiting for
>FLY RRF E3 PRO (yeah, it's gonna be RepRap)
>CHT clone
>Bi metal heatbreak
And endless plans about a direct extruder. For that i found the following; simply putting an orbiter right on top.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5275563

>mosfets
What do you mean by that, buying extra mosfets to solder on your board?
>stock print profile in cura
Good to know that works.
>bed was setted and forgetted
Any issues with springs, did you change to spacers?
>It just werks. And werks, and werks. It's the VW Käfer of 3d printing.
Hope it'll do the same for me.

[Anonymous No.2680762]

>>2680643
good lord there are only 3 axis how fucking difficult is this for you?

[Anonymous No.2680863]

>>2680760
>i went in
Good for you! Your plan sounds solid, keep us posted please.
>mosfets
pic related, I've got two of them so that power draw on the mainboard is kept to a minimum, more of a precaution because of my volcano hotend
>profile
https://github.com/NilsRo/Cura_Anycubic_MegaS_Profile
It's this one, I'll throw out the extrusion at the start because I use a brim anyway
>springs
no issues at all
>Hope it'll do the same for me.
yes^^

[Anonymous No.2680916]

Wait, is the most high-power thing in a 3D printer the bed heater? Like mine has a 350W PSU in there, but the hot end is only 70W, and I can't imagine the stepper drivers use anywhere near as much as the bed. Couldn't mains-bed 3D printers actually be a lot cheaper by using a lower-power PSU? All you need is a TRIAC circuit, and some good electrical insulation.

[Anonymous No.2681018]

is there really nothing that matches the p1s at its price point? im hesitant spending that much money on a hobby and especially on el chinko proprietary shit.

[Anonymous No.2681021]

>>2680916
>Wait, is the most high-power thing in a 3D printer the bed heater?
yes, 200-300w+ usually
>Couldn't mains-bed 3D printers actually be a lot cheaper by using a lower-power PSU?
going 350w to 150w saves so little if any money for manufacturers its not worth it, its like how for example nowadays a sub 32gb usb/sd far more expensive per gb than a 64-1024gb one because the economy of scale has shifted. plus then you need (>china >"need") safety systems to keep 120v in check to not kill the user and/or burn their house down anyway, so it ends up being even more expensive in the long run.

[Anonymous No.2681033]

>>2680378
For starters you can get a genuine unit with an original LDO motor, taxes included, for the same price it costs to get a maybe knockoff from China. Second for 94% of users super high speed printing doesn't matter and more precision at lower speeds is favourable.
>https://www.3djake.com/ldo-motors/orbiter-extruder-v20

>>2680608
If it's one straight direction, maybe bed. Else Kinematics. Try using a probe.

>>2680654
Honestly, try to ditch it while it's relatively new and get a SV06 plus instead.

>>2680916
>Wait, is the most high-power thing in a 3D printer the bed heater?
Yes. There's a reason why proportionally more Euros are doing mains heater mods.

[Anonymous No.2681035]

Did I do it right?

[Anonymous No.2681131]

>>2681035
lookin good brudda

[Anonymous No.2681176]

How much is reasonable for IPA/Gallon? Local chem shop is selling at $15/Gallon

Also I heard that IPA is resusable if you leave it out in a glass jug in the sun, is that true?

[Anonymous No.2681196]

>>2680675
>compatible
how tho?

[Anonymous No.2681200]

>>2680916
>Couldn't mains-bed 3D printers actually be a lot cheaper by using a lower-power PSU?
Only for large format printers that need a lot more power for the bed.

[Anonymous No.2681210]

>>2681176
I'd assume $15 / gal is reasonable. There is a little more to it than just "leave it in the sun senpai" but essentially yes.

[Anonymous No.2681217]

>>2680378
It works well and it's very convenient with the filament sensor attachment.

[Anonymous No.2681220]

>>2681176
For 99%, that's a good price. For 91%, fuck no, $6/gal.

[Anonymous No.2681232]

>>2681176
The leaving it out in the sun thing can help to clean up ISO you've been using to clean resin prints. Resin ends up distributed in the ISO, you throw it in the sun and it cures and precipitates out. This is far from perfect, light can only penetrate so deep depending on how filthy the ISO is. Giving it frequent vigorous shakes will keep it from caking on the sides of the container and blocking light from reaching the interior. When enough is precipitated out and the ISO is much less cloudy, you run it through a strainer/filter like cheesecloth or a coffee filter to remove the solids. Leave that mess of grit out in the sun for a day to fully cure before throwing it away. People have gone more extreme than this with automated setups, looping pipes around UV lights while recirculating through a filter, that sort of stuff. It's not perfect, but it gets you most of the way there. Over time, your ISO will absorb moisture from the air, there's no avoiding it, while some of the alcohol content evaporates off. 99% ISO is recommended because any water can decrease the effectiveness of your cleaning, and make it harder to get a clean finished model with no haze/streaks/buildup on it. So with your ISO weakening over time, it'll gradually become worse, and filtering won't help it at that point. Highly recommend keeping your nasty cleaning ISO separate from a small amount of good clean 99% that's just for final rinses. When that "clean" supply is made dirty enough, toss it into the shit you reuse and pop open a fresh bottle. ISO is cheap, Amazon basics brand 99% is $10/gal when buying 3 gallons at a time, and comes in 16oz bottles so you can keep a supply on hand without opening/contaminating all of it.

[Anonymous No.2681314]

>>2681232
>Amazon basics brand 99% is $10/gal when buying 3 gallons at a time
12x 16oz is 1.5 gallons, which makes it $20/gal.

[Anonymous No.2681331]

>>2681314
I thought it was quart bottles, but I only see the pints, you're right.

[Anonymous No.2681382]

>>2681200
what about normal-sized 3d printers where you want the bed to take less than 5 minutes to heat up?

[Anonymous No.2681421]

Board tourist here. I have inherited a Makeit Pro-M. Obscure printer which I can no longer buy replacement parts for. Thing is falling apart at every seam.

Any good printers at moderate prices with dual extruders? Thanks, fellas.

[Anonymous No.2681464]

>>2681421
Creality CRX Pro is ok, but a bambu with filament changer is a lot better. There are also some printers with dual hot ends that make dual filament printing quick and less wasteful.

If you’re up for it and your printer has some decent parts (e.g. 32-bit mainboard, steppers, extrusions, maybe the hot end) you could try to rebuild a printer with some of its parts. Though doing this will probably require a 3D printer to make the parts on, and it’s hardly straightforward. But maybe just swapping the belts and bearings and lead screws and linear rods will be enough to breathe life back into it.

You could also transplant the dual hot end onto any other printer of choice, maybe after printing an adapter bracket.

[Anonymous No.2681538]

My first printer. K1 or P1P as a beginner? Heard a lot of bad reviews for K1. Cost wise is acceptable for me. But for long term, should I consider P1P instead?

[Anonymous No.2681539]

>>2680730
where can i dl this STL?

[Anonymous No.2681544]

>>2681538
The K1 is a piece of shit.

[Anonymous No.2681564]

>>2681539
probably ctrl+pew

[Anonymous No.2681586]

>>2681538
P1S? Why P?

[Anonymous No.2681588]

>>2681382
That's a usability benefit, not a cost benefit.

[Anonymous No.2681601]

>>2681464
Not the guy you are replying to but, I found out that for more delicate parts, the benefit of having a dual hot end, or something to switch is nearly mandatory. Because you can get this filament that is water soluble, to be used in the supports and oh boy, the supports for more intricate parts are a bitch to remove.

But just dip that thing in water and the supports are gone. Now that seems like another big improvement. You can print the supports as thick and huge as possible and a bit of water will wash them away without any damage to the print.

[Anonymous No.2681639]

>>2681538
P1S.

>>2681601
People still use water solvable filament? I genuinely thought that fad was over. Are you designing some kind of injection machinery to reach this level of complexity? I don't think I had any part of the last 4 years where inner support couldn't be avoided by proper design or simple bridging.

[Anonymous No.2681641]

>>2681601
>>2681639
Wasn't supposed to be too much of a personal attack. I'm just genuinely surprised.

[Anonymous No.2681646]

I was flexing my super cool 3D printed lantern and now the nerdy girl at work wants me to print her some DND figures.

[Anonymous No.2681651]

Here's something I 3d printed.
I couldn't print the full bottom cause I messed up so I had to hot glue it.

[Anonymous No.2681677]

Can someone convince me that PETG ain't worth the headache as my "main" filament, and that I should just stick to PLA+? I can almost get PETG perfect but there's slight issues (especially with overhangs/bridges), and the shiny finish isn't great.

I'm just autistic about material performance and PETG seems to be better than PLA+ in pretty much every metric.

[Anonymous No.2681679]

>>2681538
Get P1S, it's $100 more but it's worth it for the enclosure/extra fans, lets you print ABS/ASA down the line if you decide you need it. I got one (about a month ago) and it just worksTM.

[Anonymous No.2681680]

>>2681677
Switch to ASA instead.

[Anonymous No.2681693]

>>2681677
What do you want PETG for? It's a pointless material in my mind. PLA is stronger, PLA+ has better impact resistance, ABS and ASA handle higher temperatures, pretty much everything is easier to print with. PETG is kind of shit.

[Anonymous No.2681720]

>>2681646
Go get her, champ.

[Anonymous No.2681721]

>>2681720
Do I want to get her though?

[Anonymous No.2681722]

>>2681693
really? I heard it was pretty much better than PLA+ in everything (strength, impact resistance, durability, temperature resist, flexes slightly instead of breaking instantly), like it's one flaw is that it's not great at bridging/overhangs and it can be tricky to print.

[Anonymous No.2681725]

>>2681722
>It's been three years already
https://youtu.be/ycGDR752fT0

[Anonymous No.2681735]

>>2681725
very useful, thanks anon. I think I'll switch to PLA+ after I run out of PETG then

[Anonymous No.2681738]

>>2681735
>but wait, there's more!
https://youtu.be/uAoZCpXoPWo

[Anonymous No.2681745]

>>2681738
interesting x2, so it looks like PLA+ is just budget PETG in how it fails (e.g. stretches instead of snapping)? very cool

[Anonymous No.2681774]

>>2681745
It's also pretty much the same price as regular PLA, so there's no reason not to use it. Except where I have specific requirements, I only print PLA+.

[Anonymous No.2681779]

>>2681774
>pretty much the same price as regular PLA
Where and what do you buy?

[Anonymous No.2681781]

>>2681693
>PLA+ has better impact resistance
>>2681722
>>2681725
>>2681735
>>2681745
>>2681774
>>2681779
every PLA+ brand is different. The + just means "we added shit and can't call it PLA any more". There is not one standard and they each have different shit added and different strengths.

[Anonymous No.2681795]

>>2681779
Eono or Esun, on amazon.

[Anonymous No.2681818]

>>2681781
>There is not one standard and they each have different shit added and different strengths.
Don't forget that colorants will also change physical properties even within a single brand. Testing is pretty much the only way to check performance.

[Anonymous No.2681821]

>>2681781
>>2681818
Sounds terrible desu. I'd rather stay with usual PLA for prototyping, ASA for kicking.

[Anonymous No.2681826]

>>2681821
No, it's not terrible. You're simply trading off strength for increased toughness. It's really just application dependent. The colorant problem is also independent of material for PLA, PLA+, ABS, etc. Whites are typically the worst offenders, as plastics tend to need a higher proportion of colorant to get a good white color than any others.

[Anonymous No.2681832]

>>2681826
Yeah, but from everything written here so far the gist is basically one buying a spool ASA from any vendor and having a good idea what's in there versus buying a spool PLA+ from any vendor and guessing what's it gonna be.

[Anonymous No.2681858]

>>2681832
Yeah if your printer can reliably do ASA I wouldn't really bother with much else.

[Anonymous No.2681890]

has anyone tried putting wallpaper on a 3D printed panel?

I'm printing a panel with holes for buttons to go onto, and I don't really want the printline texture on it. Would wallpaper of some kind fucking STICK on that surface and not move? Should I apply a specific kind of glue under it?

[Anonymous No.2681910]

Is there any reason we aren't using biodegradable degreaser instead of IPA?

I use this concentrate + water to clean resin castings from mould release. I saw a guy on YT test this stuff (the premixed jugs) and apparently it worked better than IPA

[Anonymous No.2681913]

>>2681910
Lots of people do. Problem is that biodegradability stops mattering when you mix toxic goo into it. With IPA, you can cure out the majority of the resin and reuse the IPA so long as the water content doesn't get too high, at which point it can be distilled and chemically dried back to 99% again. With your bottle of simple green, it becomes a toxic mess, you throw it into a landfill, and that's the whole process.

[Anonymous No.2681961]

>>2681721
Yes. Obviously. Look at what you wrote above.

[Anonymous No.2681966]

>>2681961
She's just the next woman using me for my wits, except she's also a kuso nerd.

[Anonymous No.2681969]

>>2681966
Are you making excuses to yourself to avoid facing the risk of rejection?

[Anonymous No.2681972]

>>2681969
Surprisingly no I'm not, even though it looks like that. Just why should I be doing favors for some woman just like that? Even if we end up doing something I probably wouldn't even be able to get my dick up for her. I'm also a virgin, so why should she get the privilege of being my first?

[Anonymous No.2681979]

>>2681972
>so why should she get the privilege of being my first?
Based wizard.

[Anonymous No.2682006]

>>2681972
>why should she get the privilege of being my first?
And i thought this wasn't the /g/ 3dpg thread.

[Anonymous No.2682053]

>>2675810
https://all3dp.com/4/two-trees-reveals-speed-focused-sk-1-3d-printer/
are we bambu clone nao?

[Anonymous No.2682163]

>>2675810
I have had a Creality Ender 3 Pro for a year. I have never seen this side extruder fan turn on. Is it broken? Or is it only supposed to come on if the printer is overheating or something?

[Anonymous No.2682204]

>>2681196
That's the thing.
These faggots genuinely tjought that apple of 3D printing would make something for everyone.
We'll see what that is in a few days. We already know it's a smaller printer.

[Anonymous No.2682266]

>>2682163
Isn't that the part cooling fan? Its speed is set from the slicer settings.

[Anonymous No.2682300]

>>2680675
>>2682204
this reminds me, there are a couple companies that rolled out actual compatible multiplexers. Co Print has one that's a cross-compatible MMU, and are launching what looks like a combination klipper pad and ERCF that's cross-compatible soon.

[Anonymous No.2682355]

>>2675810
Hello, I'm trying to 3d print a custom shaped lightweight mouse for a disabled person. I have a functioning USB connected circuit board from an existing device and want to make a case that will fit a disabled person's weak and uniquely crooked hand. I'm willing to shell out 1k+ for this if it means we can produce such things without too much technical expertise. Assuming I'm able to successfully create an accurate 3d model for the design using calipers (if that's even the best way to do it), which type of printer is considered the most intuitive/painless when it comes to the learning curve? Which would you recommend for the project?

Thanks, and please also let me know any tips that come to mind.

[Anonymous No.2682356]

>>2681601
PVA filament is fucking expensive. These days people print PLA supports for PETG, which apparently separates just fine once it's cooled. I guess the price can be justified if you're printing small amounts of it for high value parts, but that feels more like SLA territory.

Once you've got tree supports dialled in, I think people usually find it's removable enough even for delicate parts. But I've never tried it. I print medium-sized practical things where the artefacts resulting from an easily printable model just add to the look.

[Anonymous No.2682359]

>>2682355
Given the way you're asking: Bambulabs P1S or Prusa Mk4
The P1S is better bang for your buck, it's a faster and more capable printer. It's also Chinese as fuck, a "mostly" closed ecosystem, and happy to keep things proprietary.
Prusa is overpriced as fuck, and their printers lack in materials quality for their given price, but those are pretty much the only genuine complaints. They're ubiquitous with 3D printing, major contributors (if not consistent) to opensource 3D printing tech and software, and their machines really do work as well as you'd expect a machine at that price point to work.

[Anonymous No.2682365]

>>2682355
>which type of printer is considered the most intuitive/painless when it comes to the learning curve?
One of the nicer modern FDM printers (e.g. the Prusa and Bambu the other anon mentioned) should produce good results with minimal printing-related expertise on your end. I'd advise looking through some basic guides to make sure you're doing things like telling the slicer to make the sort of print you want (e.g. not a vase) and how to orient the model on the build plate and choose basic settings for your use.

>Assuming I'm able to successfully create an accurate 3d model for the design using calipers (if that's even the best way to do it)
If you don't already have 3D modeling experience, this will probably be the sticking point. Calipers can help, but you need to model smooth ergonomic curves and get those to mesh with the mounting points. You'll probably be testing multiple iterations regardless. Do you already know what you're doing here?

[Anonymous No.2682370]

>>2682163
>>2682266
This is indeed the part cooling fan. It can be manually turned on by going to control->temperature->fan speed on the printer. Mine also rotates for a very short time when turning the printer on.

[Anonymous No.2682389]

>>2682163
In cura, it's listed under the cooling tab.

[Anonymous No.2682393]

>>2682355
Unless you want the printer for other purposes, just get it printed at pcbway. Only get a printer if you have multiple uses for it and are prepared for it to become a hobby in its own right.

[Anonymous No.2682479]

>its an the entire first layer mashes together episode
God I hate 3D printing sometimes

I still haven't fixed my prints coming out with a weird bulge near the bottom regardless of how close/far the nozzle is

[Anonymous No.2682480]

>>2682479
Check extrusion multiplier in firmware settings.
Check slicer first layer line width settings; what are they?
Measure thickness of skirt; is it what it should be?

[Anonymous No.2682490]

>>2682355
Buy a spool of PLA and dunk strips of it in hot water. Build a first working prototype quickly without a printer.

[Anonymous No.2682491]

>>2682480
I changed the z-offset and got a better result. I think it needs to be a slightly closer
However I'm having real trouble getting shit to stick and have little bits come off still. Even at 15mm/s for the first layer

I'll have to fuck around more tomorrow this is driving me crazy and I still need to do other shit today

[Anonymous No.2682496]

>>2682491
second picture is either slightly too far away from bed or underextrusion.
As for adhesion, take the glass bed off, clean it thoroughly with dish soap and water, dry with a clean lint-free cloth (or remove paper towel fuzz after with a lint free cloth) and whatever you do do not touch the bed with your hands; oil on your skin will negatively impact adhesion.

[Anonymous No.2682544]

>>2682496
I have, I think that part of the bed is just fucked from use. I might just flip or over and use gluestick

I'm trying to print with no z-hop too as I made sure my x-gantry is level. Maybe I still need z-hop until I finally bother to install Marlin and use mesh leveling

[Anonymous No.2682611]

>>2682491
Looks too far from the bed. Check e-steps.

[Anonymous No.2682614]

>>2675810
im building a fleet of 3d printers, currently i have a p1p and a cr10s pro v2 but i dont use the creality because its too slow, so I'm looking to get another addition.

I was going to get the P1S but i really like the K1 Max's build volume and since I do custom orders some of them are full helmets and other big items so I really want to get at least one big fast printer. I want to use orca slicer for all my printers and i know they currently added a k1 max profile, my question is would i be missing on any of the features of the k1 max if i dont use creality slicer? (ai camera, networking etc). I'm also expecting a worse print quality than bambu products (i've seen worse overhangs and ringing), however i'm hoping to fix this by using orca slicer since i heard most of it is from the slicer. What can I/must I upgrade hardware-wise to match the print quality of the bambu printers? I don't mind spending money I just want a large format bambu printer but I don't want to go to another company like qidi or build my own printer like a voron or something. I don't mind upgrading the creality machine and the fact that I don't have to connect to their cloud to use networking is very ncie compared to bambu. i also want to try the k1 in case i'm satisfied with it and i would then consider not getting bambu products anymore because of the price difference

>tl;dr I want a large format P1P and I'm thinking K1 Max is the answer, what should I do to get P1P print quality and will I miss on features by not using creality slicer

[Anonymous No.2682616]

is there a way to repair smooth pei surface? I let some ABS prints cool down and when I took them off they ripped two chunks out of my pei sheet. Any way to use some sort of filler over the holes or do I have to change the pei film?

[Anonymous No.2682630]

>display on MK4 already dicked
thanks josef

[Anonymous No.2682644]

>>2682616
>ripped two chunks out of pei sheet
impressive. Show picture with coin for scale

[Anonymous No.2682659]

dear diary
today my stl broke before I even printed it

is there a simple fix to the model becoming a broken mess of lines or is it fucked

[Anonymous No.2682687]

>>2682630
It's opensource, just fix it yourself!
Oh, wait, right, they lied.

[Anonymous No.2682692]

>>2682659
export it again?

[Anonymous No.2682731]

>>2682630
That's not what the USB port is for, anon.

[Anonymous No.2682732]

Made a FPV goggle set, then made a real time night vision camera onto the front, and projected it through a screen. It's pretty large but I CAN SEE IN THE FUCKING DARK NOW

[Anonymous No.2682734]

>>2682732

[Anonymous No.2682735]

>>2682734

[Anonymous No.2682738]

>>2682735

[Anonymous No.2682761]

>>2682738
>raspi + raspi cam
couldn't you just have used an analogue video camera piped directly to an analogue video monitor like analogue fpv already uses? less latency and cheaper.

[Anonymous No.2682773]

My spin-coater with independant 4-jaw chuck made from M8 threaded rod. Hope it doesn't shake itself to pieces. Or melt.

I might print out holders for the wingnuts that are easier to spin because it's a bit tedious to adjust these.

[Anonymous No.2682817]

>>2682659
p-print it anyways

[Anonymous No.2682838]

I have taken the garolite pill; hopefully it's as easy to work with as people say. So far, so good

[Anonymous No.2682848]

>>2682761
I had a pi, IRNV cam and a screen lying around. The latency is minimal with an integrated IRNV. There's a USB reg cam on it too, that has higher latency.

[Anonymous No.2682962]

>>2682355
Pretty much what >>2682393 said. A P1S will do you fine for other projects as well, but frankly get something cheap or maybe even used from ebay/craigs. Lots of dialed in machines offered by people wo finally moved on to a Voron/other high end machines. Get some cheap PLA spools, prototype it down and order the final part in something like MJF PA12 or even PA11 if you need some elasticity.

[Anonymous No.2682965]

>>2680228
3d printing racist who recently got a resin printer, reporting in again

this thing is EASY MODE

it is so much easier to get fantastic quality prints with a chad resin printer than a virgin FDM printer. Why didn't anyone tell me this sooner!?

the only gotcha is the toxic chemicals and cancer, but other than that resin printing is INFINITELY better than FDM printing, anyone who says otherwise is a NIGGER

[Anonymous No.2682972]

>>2682965
Resin printers are so fucking easy to use and I laugh anytime someone in any way compares them to FDM. They are practically made for babies aside from the toxic resin. So insanely easy to use.

[Anonymous No.2682977]

>>2682972
I think you forgot another metric to resin printers, it increases your homosexuality by 5+...best to avoid them.

[Anonymous No.2682981]

So I was looking for weird and unconventional but competitive-to-normal-industry prints and there seem to be a few things that seem to sell a little bit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBtvCx6eyeA

Should I just try a few of these? To sell them on my national second hand site?

[Anonymous No.2682985]

>It's another 'extruder motor wire broke in the drag chain' episode
I'm buying a fucking CAN toolhead board I'm sick of this shit

[Anonymous No.2683012]

How can I print less safe materials in an apartment with limited ventilation without giving myself VOC aids

Is a bentobox or nevermore alone enough?

[Anonymous No.2683028]

>>2683012
capture the air in a carbon filter, grind it up, and release it into an orphanage as fine powdered dust.

[Anonymous No.2683029]

>>2683028
>>2683012
a serious post though, a carbon filter of a hepa filter or some other filter that can capture this stuff, they arent that difficult to make, you can probably find some enclosure + space for a simple fan somewhere. They have all sorts of filter sheets depending on what you need to capture.

[Anonymous No.2683156]

>>2682965
Don't SLA prints warp when curing? Especially with thin models.

[Anonymous No.2683164]

Debating an flsun3d superracer, coming from an ender 3 v2

Is this a good choice? Neither i nor anyone i personally know is experienced with delta printers, what issues should i be aware of that are specific to them?

[Anonymous No.2683165]

>>2682965
The strength for functional prints (read: guns) just isn't sufficient

[Anonymous No.2683166]

>>2682985
>another
>multiple
>in a drag chain
How? Are you using solid core cables, anon?

[Anonymous No.2683171]

>>2683156
Depends on the resin and curing parameters.

[Anonymous No.2683172]

>>2683166
Drag chains aren't a one-size-fits-all solution. It's possible to set them up incorrectly for your application.

[Anonymous No.2683176]

Only 390/89 on page 9, shameful.

It's >2683175
That >>2683175
Time >>>2683175
Again >>2683175
Good >2683175
Luck >>2683175
Have >>>2683175
Fun >>2683175

[Anonymous No.2683374]

>>2683166
He probably has the cable too tight in the drag chain and it's rubbing on the inner radius.