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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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2658171 No.2658171 [Reply] [Original]

If you were to buy only one, which one would you buy?
From your own experience, what do you end up using more?

>> No.2658172

If I were a poorfag I'd get a drill. Then I'd get a driver (impact). I've never needed a hammer except for maybe one or two holes in cement and the proper bit in a drill worked, but a hammer would probably have been better.

In other words get everything you will use, and if you are a poorfag get the one you will use the most.

God I hate these moronic threads.

>> No.2658186
File: 172 KB, 1200x1200, ed and ron.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>From your own experience, what do you end up using more?
Between those two, I use the drill more.
I don't have an impact wrench. I just use a rachet and socket set or box end wrenches when I have to wrench on something.
I have put hex bits on an impact driver when I had to drive hex head lag bolts into wood.

An impact driver is a good tool, and probably gets used more than my drill.
But if I had to only buy one I'd buy a drill first.
Then an impact driver.
Then an impact wrench if I needed to work on my cars (but like I said I do fine with wrenches and ratchets).

>> No.2658190

Combo kits are such a good deal I don’t know why people still “just wanna by one”.

I use my impact driver more than anything, but I’d still pick a drill if I could only have one. People who show up to my shop with just an impact driver and then get butthurt because I can’t supply them with those special hex shank drill bits are massive faggots.

>> No.2658209

I had both and I used my impact all the time. My impact's broken so I just have the hammer drill and I don't see the problem with that. haven't run into any issues yet. what do I need an impact for? loosening super tight and seized bolts and screws?

>> No.2658221

Drill, 100%
I use it almost every day.
I even mix that natural peanut butter with it by chucking in a spoon with a round handle.

>> No.2658237

They are different tools used for different tasks. Thinking you should choose one or the other just because they both have triggers and spin things is pretty dumb. I couldn't imagine setting cabinets without both.
>countersink/pilot bit in drill
>grabber ph2 bit in driver
Sure you can set screws with a drill, but the impact is faster and doesn't torque your wrist.

>> No.2658239
File: 65 KB, 1098x550, 1GED2_AS01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

This is the impact wrench to drill convertion kit.

>> No.2659082

You ever drill with an impact? It’s quite fucked up with bigger bits. I took a brand new Bosch spade bit, nice and sharp with the screw in the center that pulls it in faster, that fucker split the board when the 2000in-lb impact driver started hammering.

I would probably take a drill over an impact driver if I could only have one, hammer drill is just a plus and I def reccommend them over a regular drill. Although in my go-bag, I only have the impact driver but I grab the hammer drill when I know I need to drill.

Also considering a drill + one battery is like $99, and a drill + impact driver + 2 batteries is $149, you would be dumb not to get the $149 kit.

>> No.2659090

> kit is “cheaper”
Don’t forget the hearing protection, another hidden cost to using an impact.

Ever wonder why impacts don’t have
• a switch to turn off the anvil mechanism like they do on hammer drills?
• VSD, variable speed drive? Like they do on everything else?

The reason is it’s cheap ass. It’s an underpowered motor and isn’t nearly as powerful as a drill so it would be useless without it. But you get to carry around that chinese pot metal mechanism that wears out quickly. Like your bits.

>> No.2659091
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Every one of my impacts has a variable speed trigger. It’s not 1980. And many of them have digital speed settings and modes. I have never used ear protection with them, not really necessary unless you’re running a big impact wrench hard or OSHA inspector is standing over your shoulder.

Why would you want to turn off the impact mechanism? It would add so much mass to the tool when you could grab a drill if you need a drill.

Don’t understand the hate for impact drivers unless you have never used one and you’re trying to justify not spending the extra $50 to get another battery and an extra super useful tool.

>> No.2659153

i bought a drill with no impact when i need it back in the days
this year i bought impact, a proper hammer drill, saw and angle grinder - all cordless blue bosch
I'm not a professional, just a IT retard who likes to DIY and i realized everything i bought in the past have already paid for itself
besides I don't smoke, so what someone will just smoke for a month i can materialize into tool i can use for years (if not for life)

>> No.2659282
File: 30 KB, 600x600, dewalt-impact-drivers-dcf850p1-40_600[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>a switch to turn off the anvil mechanism like they do on hammer drills?
Because that's not physically possible. As soon as it hits enough torque the hammer will jump and strike the anvil. You can't make an impact tool that doesn't do that.
> VSD, variable speed drive? Like they do on everything else?
I have a shitty Makita 12v at the office and own the pictured one, both have VSD. The DeWalt one also has three power settings, and at 1 it doesn't generate enough torque to jump the hammer off the anvil. Which is not the same as your first question.

I'll note that the combo pack I bought came with $200 worth of bag, 2 4AH batteries, and a charger basically free on top of the combined price of the two tools at $320 if I'd bought them bare. The "cheaper" part isn't necessarily about the tools but the stuff you need to make the tools run anyways.

>> No.2659295

Your use case matters which you did not specify because you're stupid. No reason exists not to have both.

>Don’t forget the hearing protection, another hidden cost to using an impact.

Little ones don't make enough noise to matter. As for power that varies, see Torque Test Channel and fuck off.

>> No.2659452

drill is faster than impact
but if you are having trouble holding onto a drill then obvs use impact,m (though you must be using some giant screws for your cabinets, I never had trouble with this and I'm a wristlet)

>> No.2659491

>self-boring auger-bit style drill split the board
Those are not for fine woodworking, they are for drilling holes through studs. I use them all the time with a 90º adapter when fishing wires through walls.

>> No.2659508

>God I hate these moronic threads
>God my life is pathetic

>> No.2659516

Wasn’t an auger, it was a spade bit and it was a 2x6 or 2x8.

>drill is faster than impact
Depends what you’re doing. An impact will drive lag bolts that would break your wrist with a drill. Also if you’re sinking 2”+ wood screws all day, impact is much easier on your wrist.

>and he still posts in the thread

>> No.2659539

I use the impact more, but if I had to have only one I'd get the drill. The impact lacks finesse for some stuff.

>> No.2659590

This is where I’m at as well.

Except I’ll add that if you do anything beyond the bare minumum and/or your house has brick or masonry, it’s worth spending the extra $20-$50 on a kit with the hammer drill (not an SDS) instead of a basic drill driver. I’m in Florida where our houses are made of concrete and brick and like 1/3 of my drilling duties are using the hammer drill.

>> No.2660158 [DELETED] 

> power settings
Vs. Picrel. I see what you tried to do there. Not clever.

>> No.2660159
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> power settings
Vs. Picrel. I see what you tried to do there. Not clever.

>> No.2660165
File: 162 KB, 1032x468, 44E7F8F9-2D9C-4A58-A196-55D58D20ED98.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

> why turn off impact mechanism?
> get both
He doesn’t know.

>> No.2660169

Are you retarded?

>> No.2660177

Yes because that 14” long drill + chinesium impact adapter will be real fun to stick inside cabinets and under shelving units and into the corner of some frame. Forget about automotive…

>> No.2660182

> doesn’t know the difference between speed and power, and doesn’t understand that he doesn’t know until explained to him a second time
This thread brought out the usual hillbillies using a subsidized government computer and internet connection didn’t it?

>> No.2660183

> only good for kitchen cabinets if you don’t have a right angle drill.
> right angle drills don’t exist
It’s hard to argue those points. Well said.

> can’t be used on car.
Yeah, nobody ever uses impacts on things like wheels. All impacts are used on cylinder head bolts, spark plugs, and tightening oil filters.

One day, you’ll probably have a chance to work on a vehicle.

>> No.2660357

>right angle drills don’t exist
So now you’re promoting buying a more specialized tool for something an impact driver could do but a drill with impact adapter couldn’t? That’s a roundabout way to justify not owning an impact driver.

>drill plus impact adapter on lug nuts

>drill plus impact adapter on spark plugs and tightening oil filters
Ok now we know you’re retarded and/or haven’t ever built of fixed anything

>> No.2660510

It's a speed control on the motor, which changes how much raw power it delivers through the anvil. Impact tools are torque-delivering devices. Drills are rotational speed delivery devices. So it's clear that you're on mount stupid here getting mad about a minor terminology difference from an image.

>> No.2660511

Shit, you shouldn't even use a 1/4" impact driver on lug nuts, you'll be snapping 1/4 hex to 3/8|1/2" square adapters all day.

>> No.2660526

Bullshit my gen3 m12 impact driver can easily do 125lbs for wheel stugndw0kds

>> No.2660553

You can get “impact ready” adapers, they’re usually black with a band that indicates the mfr. e.g. yellow for dewalt and red for milwaulkee.

>> No.2660584

i've been using ames brand adapters to spin 1/2 impact sockets for years without issue

>> No.2660607

Vid says it all. Drive a 12” lag with a 1/4” hex adapter into oak. With a drill.
Anyone that owns an impact should really examine their entire life.


>> No.2660651

Nah, I fucking love my impact driver. And I have a better drill than you do.

>> No.2660676

>armchair handyman
In the real world, impact driver on lugs only works if they’re perfectly torqued and lubed up, 12” lag bolts with a drill will smack you in the face as soon as you hit a knot, and “impact ready” adapters still fucking shear off all the time if you’re using them on 19mm nuts.

>> No.2660752
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>You can't make an impact tool that doesn't do that.


>> No.2660776

If Makita didn’t suck with battery platforms so much, that woild be a sweet tool for the go-bag.

>> No.2660779

oh sweet i was looking for ways to kill a drill as quickly as possible

>> No.2660782

you'd have to buy a whole new drill bits with hex shanks though

>> No.2660791

i love the hex bits because they write the sizes on them, i dont have to adjust the chuck every time to change bits, and they dont roll off away either

>> No.2660795

Cool. Do 500 and tell me how them shoulders/wrist feel.

>if the drill doesn’t smoke out first

>> No.2660927
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Yeah but I’m not going to carry a full drill index in my go-bag. My current setup is a subcompact impact driver with this Milwaukee Shockwave bit set and it has a few hex shank drill bits that are good to drill the random drywall anchor holes or pilot holes with quick jobs. If I had the Makita thing, I would toss a 5pk of those multi-material bits in the kit with the carbide tip for hammer drill action.

>> No.2660932

They make cheap chucks for oddbally shit but most people outside machine shops do not need a full drill index, just the most common sizes in duplicate for their use case. I have a home machine shop and still haven't bothered since most bits in an index just sit there. Buying multiple cobalt alloy bits for any size I need works much better.

>> No.2660990
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I've got a full suitcase kit for drill/drive/mounting etc., tasks. I've had to use too many different sized drill bits to rely on what's in one of those combo kits.

>> No.2661013

> ok do 500
I often do things like that, so I have skill in that area. Also, I’m a man.

>> No.2661016

> lubed up “real” world.
Maybe in your world all the guys have a big tube of astroglide or K.Y. In their pocket, ready-to-go instead of doing it dry if they happen upon a “lag bolt” in a chance encounter.
I live in a different world than that.

>> No.2661019

Impact can do everything a drill can, but better EXCEPT the chuck can only accept quick connect bit. A drill has a normal chuck, so it’s more versatile and thus the clear winner.
The answer was probably here already but I don’t read threads anymore because there’s so many stupid posters and my time is too valuable.

>> No.2661088

hammer/drill. an impact wrench cannot replace a drill. it really depends on what your use case is. but if you need to drill holes impact is not going to work.

>> No.2661300

I must be a turbo autist because I have complete 29 piece twist bit sets in several work bags and on several benches. Sure it’s not often you need those 64th sizes over 3/8” but I am always happy that they’re available. Just today I was happy to bump up to 9/64” from 1/8”.

>> No.2661318
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Even at HF prices that’s a dollar more per bit.

>> No.2661338

>Impact can do everything a drill
But a drill can't do everything an impact can

>> No.2661351

Wall anchors included in mounting kits are never the right fucking size.

>> No.2661364

Drilling holes to tap is probably the biggest reason to have the full 29pc set. Technically you should have the A-Z and 1-60 set for taps too, but you can get close enough with the 64ths set.

I still day a drill is better at driving normal screws than an impact is at drilling. The average weekender who only owns one power tool probably isn’t sinking a lot of lag bolts.

The point being? The hex shank is nice in drills with shitty chucks too.

>> No.2661369

> impact can drill holes
The absolute state of this board, lol
Everyone is going to come over and watch the idiot try and brrrrrrrrrrap brrrrrrraaap 3/4 inch hole through some sistered beams at 1/64” per minute.
Thank god the kids go back to school soon.

>> No.2661374

DeWalt Black & Golds at $20
Standard bits: 21-piece, 15 sizes, including a 3/8 and 1/2" sizes.
Impact: 12 piece, 11 sizes, maxes at 5/16ths

Seems like drilling with an impact is less cost efficient to me.

Plus having both means you aren't changing bits constantly.

>> No.2661391

I think anybody who has drilled holes with an impact knows it’s much nicer than a drill as well.

Still, I have the impact in the go-bag but if I’m drilling with that, it’s either a drywall anchor which isn’t shit or it’s a random hole in plastic to make a quick repair. I’m always going to grab the drill when I know I need to bring a box of screws along.

>> No.2661404

>If you were to buy only one, which one would you buy?
>From your own experience, what do you end up using more?
what are you building/doing? you really need both, impacts can drill but they are also really good a breaking bits, drills can drive a screw, but nowhere near as well as an impact

>> No.2661409

Most screws in the world are driven by drill/drivers as they always work much better pretty much without exception. From factories, to drywall to decks, all the automatic drivers are non-impact because they are expensive units and need to actually work well.

Drilling holes and driving screws with an impact is the equivalent of driving a screw with a hammer. Sure, it’s possible but it’s an idiotic thing to do.

Some people are hyper-religious zealots for impacts and bought into TTI’s marketing hypesters who have never even held one of those tools, and they don’t use them internally at TTI to assemble them.

I encourage you to buy their cordless stationary impact drill press for all your fine machining work. You deserve it.

>> No.2661422

>Impact can do everything a drill can, but better
an impact cant drill through masonry

>I think anybody who has drilled holes with an impact knows it’s much nicer than a drill as well.
you're a fucking idiot

>> No.2661437

I am a fucking idiot

I meant to say drilling is much nicer with* a drill. I feel dirty drilling holes with an impact driver, just like that one time I put a PH2 socket on my 1/2” impact wrench.

>> No.2661439
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>Most screws in the world are driven by drill/drivers as they always work much better pretty much without exception. From factories, to drywall to decks, all the automatic drivers are non-impact because they are expensive units and need to actually work well.
you're fucking retarded I build houses you dipshit, drills are for making holes, impact drivers are for sinking screws

>> No.2661445

Yeah gonna go with this anon, dude building decks for a living is going to have an impact driver to send all those 2-1/2” screws.

And most techs too, can’t recall the last time I saw a sparky or HVAC guy driving a sheet metal screw with a drill.

Assembly lines and shit have drills because so many of them are big non-cordless contraptions putting <1” screws into holes that are already drilled out. Maybe cabinet builder guy uses a drill too for tiny screws because you can split it with the impacts unlike a 2x4.

>> No.2661456

>Assembly lines and shit have drills because so many of them are big non-cordless contraptions putting <1” screws into holes that are already drilled out
it's for the clutch, the only screws I drive with a drill are brass hinge screws because I can set the clutch to not break the screws. Same with assembly line stuff, you can't have retarded workers stripping out holes on cheap plastic bullshit. Cabinet makers use countersink bits in their drills and then use an impact driver, you have to have some finesse once you get into fine woodwork.

>> No.2661500

>I think anybody who has drilled holes with an impact knows it’s much nicer than a drill as well.
You're full of shit.

>> No.2661501

Also, you can't use high end bits like Forstners in an Impact tool.

>> No.2661526

>Most screws in the world are driven by drill/drivers as they always work much better pretty much without exception

Almost any type of self-threading screw (i.e. pretty much everything other than a machine thread) is going to be better driven with an impact. They're more effective and are far less likely to strip the screw. You have literally no idea what you're on about and probably haven't actually used either of these tools. The only reason to prefer a drill/driver over an impact is if you want to use the torque-limiting clutch.

I only had a drill for a long time before I bought my first impact, way back in the day. I still remember how much of a fucking retard I felt like for not buying one sooner. I'm pretty sure the impact driver is secretly the only reason PH heads are still tolerated, since their action dodges the cam-out problem that regular drivers do.

>> No.2661563

Hey kid, drywallers do thousands of phillips screws in one day, none of us use an impact. I drive more screws in a day than you will in your entire lifetime.

The phillips screw was designed to seat quickly so I can do around one per second, usually by the handful. We use PR2 bits.

It was more than just a feeling.

>> No.2661577

shut up jose, nobody cares about your stupid electric whirr drill which is only useful for drywall

>> No.2661619

>Hey kid, drywallers do thousands of phillips screws in one day, none of us use an impact.
No shit, you have a specialized drill with a belt feeder that's only for doing drywall.

>> No.2661632
File: 2.93 MB, 4032x3024, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Yea go to other posts where I said my retarded brain wrote “than” instead of “with”.

I also mentioned earlier how I tried a big spade it in an impact once and it fucking split a 2x6 along the grain. It was one of these Daredevil bits and as soon as those threads pulled that bit into the wood and the impact started chomping away, the board was not happy.

>> No.2661665
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I'm weary of those self-feeding spade bits for that reason, I usually stick with the old pointy ones even if they are slower

>> No.2661667

They work well with a drill with balls, just don’t use them on an impact.

Only problem is you may want to think about putting the handle on your drill if you’re going >1” on those spade bits.

>> No.2661739
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> belt feeder
LOL this ain’t europe. You can get by with something like this on a regular drill. Most of the regular drills we have don’t have built in clutches.

>> No.2661742

You can but feeders make sense for commercial use or home users who aren't poor.

>> No.2661746

You're retarded or poor but those go together. Serious DIYers gear up to pro levels because it pays off.

>> No.2661747
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Nigger I am a pro, I do finish carpentry and project management. Why don't you figure out how to hang drywall so it's not fucked up when I go to install my woodwork?

>> No.2661748
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The point is, expensive professional tools never use an impact to drive screws because it’s a bad idea, it’s too slow, and doesn’t work very well.

If you can get a non-impact drill like pros, and get better and faster results by forgoing the impact, why not?

You sound like a tti shill who’s getting 10 yuan for every time you spew bullshit

>> No.2661752

You do Mexican tier production work, not finish work. All of those tools have features which stop the retard operator from overdriving the screw. Have fun installing sheathing for 200 a day.

>> No.2661761

go drive some screws 20ft up a ladder with your drill. have fun taking all day, fucking up your shoulder, or falling.

>> No.2661763

Please do not do finish work with an impact driver Jesus christ.

>> No.2661770

I do finish work all the time with an impact. We’re not ham fisted rough carpentry retards that don’t know when to stop pulling the trigger.

>> No.2661774

It’s usually fucked up because the framing is fucked up. We give as good as we get.
We get bowed out jutting out studs, missing studs and plates, studs not on proper centers, pipes sticking out, unplumb and unsquare shit, and rich people with a bunch of non standard dimensions and fancy outlet box arrangements like what you’re working on.

>> No.2661783

I like it when the zoomer electrical guy comes in and impacts all the screws so the threads are gone or they’re striplocked in there you can’t get them out, including the panel covers.
I guess we see a lot of that because we’re in there when they’re redoing it all.

>> No.2661788
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For your substrate and the frame you do. You also do for stair cases, you just have to know how to hide them.

>> No.2661813

Your project management cigar chair is covered in dust, man. “what we need is two asymetical and differently sized and shaped windows here”
I like how you started the “job” and ordered new tools to the customer’s house and unboxed them, like that bosch.
Hi, fine woodworker here, the MDF is made of lignum vitae and mahogany dust so I had to get a festool to cut it with, but i got the blade at poundland to save money so it looks slightly worse than wood cut by termites. Oh, and my chopsaw doesn’t just spin the blade, it impact-spins it because I’m a pro. You know I’m a pro because I say it do often. I make my kids call me “pro” instead of dad.

>> No.2661832
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2 festools, I have employees, also the track saw is a mafell which is an excellent brand, the windows are different sizes because the breakfast nook is under one of them. And I'm a pro because labor only they have paid me 100k in the past 4 months :) also, tenryu blades are where it's at, oh and I got a new router today :)

>> No.2661933

Spades are for nasty, rough cutting anyways. Forstners make for really clean holes.

>> No.2661934
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>Claims to be a drywall installer
>Doesn't use the right tool

>> No.2661935

>The point is, expensive professional tools never use an impact to drive screws
Bullshit, pro woodworkers use impact drivers all the time.

>> No.2661939

Ban assault screwdrivers

>> No.2661958

> multiple blades
I’m beginning to think you don’t arrive at the jobsite at 4am to manually sharpen the blades and other tools before everyone else gets there.

At least you don’t have a cordless contactor’s saw or a cordless chopsaw. It could have been worse.

>> No.2661962

The bar for being s “pro” has never been as low as it is now. I was on site when ICE pulled up and hauled off 120 electricians working for another company.

>> No.2661964
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Getting blades sharpened is bullshit, those tenryu blades will last almost a month on a saw cutting poplar at moderate workloads. Get one sharpened at the "good" carbide shop in town and it lasts maybe a week. Cordless tools are for the most part underpowered bullshit incapable of real precision. That being said, cordless oscillating multitools are nice and I have been thinking about a battery powered jigsaw for when I am cutting holes in boards for lights etc. because the cord getting in the way is annoying. Oh and before someone says some shit about "yeah well those blades wouldn't last long on real hardwood like oak" take a look at this ipe outdoor TV surround I built, one tenryu blade, hundreds of cuts and fine adjustments. inb4 people don't know what ipe is