/3dpg/ - 3D Doggo Edition

[Anonymous No.2648673]

Last Thread: >>2643977

All the outdated info you don't need about /3Dpg/-printing (Last updated 948 days ago): https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>Calibrate your printer.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [32/72/5 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, these are just popular and available options, don't buy a $1000 bedslinger:
Up to 200 USD: Kingroon KP3S, Sovol SV01, Voxelab Aquila X2, Anycubic Kobra Neo, ELEGOO Neptune 2S, Malyan M300/Monoprice Mini Delta
Up to 300 USD: Kingroon KP3S Pro/Pro S1, Sovol SV06, Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo, Elegoo Neptune 3
Up to 400 USD: Creality Ender 3 S1, Sovol SV01 Pro, Artillery Sidewinder SW-X2
Up to 500 USD: Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro, FLSUN Super Racer
Up to 500 USD Large-Format: Anycubic Kobra Max, Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
Up to 800 USD: Bambu Lab P1P
Over 1000 USD: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon, Ultimaker, Lulzbot, Raise3D
DIY: Voron, Rat Rig, Ultimaker/2/3, https://reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: Creality HALOT-ONE/LD-002H, Anycubic Photon Mono/X/4K, Elegoo Mars 3/Saturn 2, Formlabs Form 3/3L

>Where can I get things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://printables.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://cults3d.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCAD
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for P1P/X1 owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

[Anonymous No.2648679]

Somewhat NSFW question is it safe to make a bead string like toy that may theoretically be inserted into your rectum?

[Anonymous No.2648683]

>>2648669
It's usually very easy. For most simple things, you can just do it right in the slicer and not bother with CAD or modeling software.

>>2648620
Unfortunately yes. You're right at the edge of where Prusa voids the warranty on their printers, 34C is pretty warm.
At 34C ambient, you're going to have some difficulty with certain materials, especially PLA. Instead, you should lean into it, just print ABS. It's cheaper, has better temperature resistance, better ductility, it's biggest "problem" is needing an enclosure to print it, but at 34C in the room you should be able to print ABS beautifully without an enclosure so long as there's no significant draft!

>>2648679
Short version: No
Long version: Lots of extra work. Always be weary of 3D printing anything to be used with food, or inserted into the body. 3D prints are very good at harboring bacteria and fungus, and holding onto "material" even after a thorough cleaning. In general, it's just not recommended. The majority of 3D prints cannot be cleaned adequately, they even suck at being autoclaved because of the layered and porous structure. If you print in a material that can be vapor-smoothed, that helps tremendously. Generally, the recommended way of producing your own sex toys is printing molds that can be sanded/coated and made nice and smooth, then you can cast the toy in a more appropriate and safe material like silicone.

[Anonymous No.2648691]

>>2648683
Rly cool thx.

[Anonymous No.2648693]

Forgot to post this one from the 1000th /k/hg/

[Anonymous No.2648702]

>No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
Poor Jannies Struggling

[Anonymous No.2648707]

>literally 10 images in the OP are mine

We did it reddit!

>>2648669
Was pretty easy for my specific stl and it's my first time touching blender. Didn't even watch a tutorial. Just googled how to navigate the pane. The text was debossed into the model so I just deleted all of the points until I got a flat surface, and embossed my own text. Only thing I couldn't figure out was how to change the shape of the edge on one of the letters but whatever.

[Anonymous No.2648712]

>>2648702
>wahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
>must ban evade
how pathetic is your life pal

[Anonymous No.2648715]

>>2648702
Not allowed how to discuss how to make a weaboo anime cosplay sword in here? In that case are we allowed to talk about the true to size naked female bust with natural shaped tiddies with nipples and sternum/collar bone/armpit details print I want to make for my wall decoration?

[Anonymous No.2648716]

>>2648715
No.

[Anonymous No.2648722]

>>2648716
I wont post NSFW images though?

[Anonymous No.2648738]

>>2648683
>It's usually very easy.

[Anonymous No.2648745]

I need to take my print bed off for some maintenance, does anyone have any experience with insulating the bed?
It would be easy while the bed is already off, but what I've read suggests it doesn't make much difference.

[Anonymous No.2648752]

>>2648745
Literally me.
The difference ive noticed is that the bed stays hot even when its off for much longer, your preheat for less time and the surface will be more even. But there is little actual print difference. My advice is, make a cut out and channel for the thermistor/wire. If the thermistor is insulated, it will overreport. Clean with isopropyl before stickering

[Anonymous No.2648756]

>>2648752
Nice, thanks anon.
I already have a sheet from when I was thinking about it a while ago. I was planning on leaving the plastic film on the parts that would touch the thermistor but, cutting a channel for it sounds like a better idea.

[Anonymous No.2648757]

Can I print Titanx without issues in my closet on a P1P? Or should I just buy the ARC enclosure parts?

>Need an enclosure to print ABS
>Enclosure needs ABS parts minimum

[Anonymous No.2648760]

>>2648431
>>2648499
i posted a little while ago about getting an undergrad research position, and the professor running it wants me to model a heat exchanger.
so, the gyroid needs to be built in. i guess it doesn't NEED to be. thinking about it i probably could have a separate interior model that i just slice as entirely infill in prusaslicer or something but that limits the types of machines i could print it on.
pic related is the problem. fusion360 has gyroid generation, but it's solid volumetric gyroid, not sheets. the pink area is a solid wall and it should be a thin wall separating the inner and outer fluid domains.
ideally i'd use something like nTopology but i don't have a license.

[Anonymous No.2648765]

>>2648757
i'm printing parts for the vision enclosure in abs as we speak
printer just stands in a room with windows and door shut

[Anonymous No.2648766]

>>2648760
have you tried using shell tool?
Another option would be offset surface and then thicken.
Ntopology does give some educational licenses, fyi, just for the future, you probably won't get it at this point.
Isn't there supposed to be a trial version?

[Anonymous No.2648788]

>>2648766
>have you tried using shell tool?
I haven't sat down with it today but I was thinking today that maybe I could make a slightly thinner gyroid, center it in the solid, and use it as a tool to hollow out the bigger gyroid.
Didn't try it yet but that was the next thing I'd attempt.
I didn't try the shell tool, i'm not very familiar with it. f360 was pretty weird about editing the gyroid. Like, if I tried to split it with another body, it would revert half of the shape to being a solid and the other half to being gyroid. I'm probably just misunderstanding something.

I'll reach out the the nTopology guys. I only saw business licenses when I checked the other day but yeah they do actually give out student licenses.

[Anonymous No.2648794]

>>2648679
anything that might go inside you, it's better for you to use the 3d printer to make the mold, then cast using proper medical grade silicone

[Anonymous No.2648813]

>>2648788
Anoother option: If you go to surface workspace and click on ending surfaces, click delete. It will delete those surfaces. And then what it will be left is surface gyroid. Then use Thicken.
(this works with normal solid bodies in Fusion, I am not sure how this gyroid behaves.)

But if you want to impress, you can model one gyroid cell by hand and then use pattern. This might give you better control. I have done it in solidworks a couple of years ago, it's not that hard.

[Anonymous No.2648822]

>>2645925
>>2645917
>>2645914
shes fucking mint boys, first try no cap

[Anonymous No.2648823]

>>2648822
nice plug, on god?

[Anonymous No.2648844]

While my prints look kinda fine in general, the surface quality isn't perfect, which is unacceptable. More noticeable on transparent parts, such as this PETG piece. Would this be caused by the small Micro Swiss extruder gears? The wheeled carriage instead of linear rails? My hotend not getting enough heat causing pressure variations? Am I being too picky for an Ender 5+?

[Anonymous No.2648850]

>>2648757
Yes absolutely.

Ive printed TitanX on my shitty anycubic, no enclosure. 0 warping, with just a brim. They added some copolymer to it, so its not even close to pure ABS.
Tried making ABS slurry with it. Didn't dissolve more than 10% by volume in pure acetone.

If you have a hardware store nearby, you could buy some cardboard boxes, split them apart, and tape them to the sides of your p1 for a quick temporary enclosure.
Buy a fire extinguisher while you're there.

[Anonymous No.2648855]

You boys got any recommendations for cool shit to print for Halloween? I got 1kg of purple and 1kg of orange filament to waste

[Anonymous No.2648868]

>>2648855
Nah bro you need white filament.

[Anonymous No.2648874]

>>2648868
I already have white, but I want to print a load of pumkins,spiders, witchy shit. You know what I mean?

[Anonymous No.2648879]

>>2648868
white filament kills nozzles

Use "natural" PLA. It's sort of white

[Anonymous No.2648883]

Is there a guide to modify my ender 3 v2 to use the entirety of the print bed? The firmware restricts it to 220x220mm, but the print bed itself is 235x235mm. I can change the cura settings just fine, but the printer itself won't print to the edge. I know that it is physically able to reach the edges as I've done it when bed leveling.

[Anonymous No.2648886]

>>2648883
Any guide that shows you how to compile your own Marlin firmware will get you 99% of the way there.

The other 1% is opening up the file Configuration.h which you'll run into following the guide and changing:

#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220

to

#define X_BED_SIZE 235
#define Y_BED_SIZE 235

Now I have no idea if the V2's can actually move that far but that is how you'd change it.

[Anonymous No.2648891]

>>2648879
Just use a hardened nozzle then. They're not that expensive. I'm sure Chang sells one even cheaper than the anglos

[Anonymous No.2648893]

>>2648879
Wait really? I've been printing nothing but white recently.

[Anonymous No.2648905]

is it worth it to get diamondback / ruby tipped nozzles or is brass / hardened steel "good enough" for regular PLA and CF-PLA?

[Anonymous No.2648910]

>>2648905
Brass is straight up better for PLA.

[Anonymous No.2648914]

>>2648905
Brass is fine for PLA, but the carbon fiber particles are vastly more abrasive and will scrape away the brass, widening the nozzle and causing poor extrusion over time. Other materials will also do this, such as metal filled and glow in the dark PLA. White PLA will also do this to a much smaller extent, since the white pigment particles are much larger in size than other pigments (but not abrasive enough where a hobbyist will notice). From what I've heard, the diamondback nozzles just have an abrasion resistant coating, which will protect the nozzle until it gets scraped away, then it's just brass underneath. The ruby nozzles are hideously expensive, and, so i've heard, cause other printing issues so are not really worth the price. I find my hardened nozzles from Micro Swiss to be just fine, although they are a different size from my brass nozzles so be sure to change your z offset before scratching your bed.

[Anonymous No.2648918]

>>2648562 Here is how not to do example.
Red areas lead to huge pressure drops, air will just move through the path of least resistance, completely ignoring the radiator
Green area is just unused.
Also move fans as much away from the motherboard as possible. Hot air is venting both ways.

[Anonymous No.2648920]

>>2648914
>change your z offset before scratching your bed.
i have to do this every time i swap the dammed things anyway, i kinda just want one that i can just set it and forget it and just manually purge every time i switch filaments

[Anonymous No.2648925]

>>2648920
All of my brass nozzles are from the same large set, so they are all about the same height. I imagine the Revo nozzles are all the same height with their special swap system, right? I have the stock Ender hotend, so I wouldn't know. I just have 2 different z_offset values in klipper, with the one for steel nozzles commented out since I am using the brass right now.

[Anonymous No.2648926]

>>2648920
Why would changing filaments change your z offset? You have one of those head swap setups?

[Anonymous No.2648927]

>>2648926
nah, i dedicated a burner nozzle to the spool of carbon fiber pla

[Anonymous No.2648933]

>>2648918 One more thing, gpu fan replacement is not the most effective 3d printed cooling mod. Cold air intake or exhaust air duct could give much better results. When done properly (e.g. in industrial equipment or in almost every macpro) its even possible to cool multiple radiators with one large powerful but reasonably loud fan.

[Anonymous No.2648934]

>>2648905
I bought one of those e3d special sauce hardened nozzles 3 years ago, and haven't swapped since. If I were to buy another I'd buy a bozzle

[Anonymous No.2648945]

Has anyone built a Voron here? Is there any kits that come with everything you need even the Pi board or clone. They seem worth the money and time to build one. I just don't want to spend 800 years setting up klipper and all that shit

[Anonymous No.2648951]

>>2648945 Bambulab made vorons obsolete.

[Anonymous No.2648954]

>>2648945
If you just want nice prints, get a P1. If you want a project get an LDO voron kit and a pi zero 2. Klipper is super easy setup if you use a pre-built image, and copy-paste a config

[Anonymous No.2648977]

>>2648945
i literally finished a formbots voron kit last week, klipper is super simple with the pre-made voron configs, for the pi board either just buy an orangepi zero2, or a bigtreetech pi clone, they're reasonably priced and work about as well.
the printed bits are easy to get through PIF, literally all you need is paypal and a discord.
but anon, you NEED to know how to build a printer already before trying to make a voron, you aren't getting a kit like an ender, where you screw 2 parts together and it goes, i spent 40+ hours on my 2.4, 20 hours on the actual machine, 20 hours of fiddling with software, since most of the info i needed was stored on a locked reddit, if i hadn't recently rebuilt my old printer with a ramps board i would have had no idea how to work out things like motor directions myself.
do yourself a favor and just buy a bambu if you just want to print, get a voron if you want a project that lets you do more projects.

pic related is my voron 2.4, you can see the parts of that space marine helmet that didn't print right because i had the belts under-tensioned.

[Anonymous No.2648984]

>>2648977
is it easier to build a Ratrrig V-core 3?

[Anonymous No.2648994]

>>2648984
don't know, never built one.
but looking at the website, it looks like it would be an easier build, but a LOT of the parts seem pretty specialised, like, you aren't going to just print a replacement part, you're going to have to buy a whole new chunk of the printer, and i cant see as many people making upgrades or mods for them over vorons.

[Anonymous No.2648997]

starting a 14 hour print at 0.16 layer height with a 0.4 nozzle

hope it verks

[Anonymous No.2649002]

fuuuuckkk

support-G still stringing like crazy, going to try an 8 hour drying cycle :(

[Anonymous No.2649003]

>>2649002
it definitely wasn't this prone to stringing when I first got it, don't know why it is now.

It's been in the AMS with dessicant the entire time too.

[Anonymous No.2649007]

So uh.. That one anon that got Orca slicer to work with your Bambu.

How did you do that, again?

[Anonymous No.2649013]

>>2649007
nevermind, you just have to log in

[Anonymous No.2649023]

>>2648603
Some pretty awful print quality there, what the hell machine are you using? Clapped out ender 3? That one $50 firetruck printer?

[Anonymous No.2649031]

>>2648920
>i kinda just want one that i can just set it and forget it
Bozzle nozzle. Pure tungsten carbide high flow. Impervious to heat and abrasion, if anything manages to clog, burn it out with a blowtorch. Only comes in .5mm though, and the initial batch seems to be sold out everywhere.

[Anonymous No.2649034]

chinks need to start making hardened nozzles with the high flow inserts so you can gain back some of that performance lost from steel vs brass heat transfer for speedy abrasive prints. there is actually 1 listing I've ever seen, but it's for the x1.

[Anonymous No.2649038]

Trying to find some decent nozzles on Amazon...
I'm going to have to buy shit from mainland Europe and wait forever for it to arrive. I wish there were UK based 3D printing shops

[Anonymous No.2649078]

some guy at work today said it's better to use a bowden tube printer for tpe
because apparently the gap between the extruder and the hot end gets warm enough to soften the TPU and make it fail to extrude properly

sounds like he just has a shitty extruder with insufficient cooling

[Anonymous No.2649079]

>>2648866
Is there something i make wrong or is it normal?

[Anonymous No.2649088]

>>2649079
You wont find many resinbros here, I recommend checking out /3dpg/ over /tg/, they work mostly with resin, might know whats up.
>>>/tg/3dpg

[Anonymous No.2649089]

>>2649038
E3D??

[Anonymous No.2649095]

>>2649088
alright, thank you for the info, anon.

[Anonymous No.2649103]

I prefer printables but I feel like thingsverse has more things.

[Anonymous No.2649110]

>>2649103
Tried thangs? They scrape thingiverse & printables on top of their original content. Makes it much easier having a combined search

[Anonymous No.2649138]

Bed status: cosy
I followed anons advice about staying away from the thermistor, I decided to cut a channel for the entire wire run and cut around the whole felt pad in the centre, its not like it isn't hottest there anyway.

[Anonymous No.2649164]

>>2649089
Doesn't look like any real E3D stuff is on UK Amazon
This country fucking sucks for 3D printing stuff, all the store with UK sites seem to ship from Europe

[Anonymous No.2649176]

>>2649110
Yes, but my autism prevents me from enjoying it.

[Anonymous No.2649197]

>>2649164
It's funny because RepRap started as a University of Bath project.

[Anonymous No.2649200]

Man i love my printer.
Today my fridge shit itself, it stopped cooling and it's saturday and hot as fuck outside so if ordered a replacement part, just this small plastic shit to fix it i would have to wait 4 days and all my food would go bad, not to mention they don't even sell the part anymore since ti's 10yo fridge.
So i opened fusion, design the fucker myself, printed it and boom, fridge is working again. I saved a ton of time and money by not ahving to buy a new frige.
Man this feels so good.

[Anonymous No.2649202]

>>2649197
My reaction to that information

[Anonymous No.2649213]

>>2649138
wait what, i put mine on 2 days ago but i still havent used my printer, should i really cut out all this shit, i see no one really do that

[Anonymous No.2649218]

>>2649213
If the pad you used is anything like mine, once its on I don't think it will come back off, that glue is crazy. Just see how it prints, I think most people don't notice any difference with the pads on anyway.

[Anonymous No.2649221]

>>2649164
Buy directly from e3d. It's in UK.
Although if you're searching for chnese style mk8 nozzles, they don't make it anyway.
If their v6 nozzles will fit your machine idk. Search for Micro swiss for expensive stuff and trianglelab for good quality chinese stuff.

[Anonymous No.2649224]

>want to buy ring
>it's online so I can't try it on
>doing all these fucking tests to measure my size
>can't get a consistent one
>remember I have a 3D printer
>can just print some sort of ring gauge thing

3D printing is so blessed bros.

[Anonymous No.2649237]

>>2649221
As long as it fits my Ender 3 Neo I'm happy

£11.90 for a MK8 brass nozzle fuck. I was hoping they'd sell steel ones too but they don't. I've have to change my hot end to use V6

[Anonymous No.2649279]

>>2649078
>sounds like he just has a shitty extruder with insufficient cooling
Yes, he's describing "heat creep", a problem which indicates an insufficient heat break/sink.

[Anonymous No.2649301]

Man I need to pick one single brand and type of PLA because running all of the calibrations (flow rate, temp, retraction, pressure advance, max flow rate) every time I change a spool is aids.

[Anonymous No.2649310]

>>2649038
This is retarded. The only reason a nozzle should fail like that is being made from paper mache or something.

It looks like they tried some alternate manufacturing method to make something resembling a nozzle. Ridiculous, just buy a form tool for the ID bore angles and crank them out with a billion chinamen on 1980s turret lathes.

[Anonymous No.2649311]

>>2649301
I'd suggest PushPlastic or KVP if volume is your thing.

[Anonymous No.2649321]

>>2649311
I'm a yuropoor.

[Anonymous No.2649322]

What makes 3d printing draw in so many autistic individuals

[Anonymous No.2649323]

>>2649322
press button get brightly coloured plastic.

[Anonymous No.2649331]

>>2649321
I'm sorry to hear that.

[Anonymous No.2649368]

>did all of this calibrating and testing and slowing down but my issue, albeit significantly reduced, was not resolved

Sigh. Would it be possible to manually set flow and speed settings for a specific layer or at least make then gradually increase instead of suddenly being multiplied by literally 5 at a certain layer?

[Anonymous No.2649375]

>>2649368
Its possible :)

[Anonymous No.2649376]

>>2649375
I exported the g-code and tried editing it with notepad but there were 10 million lines and nothing indicative of the settings I wanted to edit and change...

[Anonymous No.2649390]

>>2649301
I shilled last thread, and im gonna do it again.
FormFutura is all you will ever need. Theyre yuros, and they make top tier stuff. Mostly targeted at industry tho, so less novelty/rainbow/glitter more strength

[Anonymous No.2649391]

>>2649376
What settings anon? gcode is configured line for line, so increasing flow rate for example will need to be done on every single line

[Anonymous No.2649393]

>>2649391
>>2649376
Sorry, forgot to read your original post.

Its IS possible to do what you want, but it requires scripting. Doing it by hand will take hours or even days

[Anonymous No.2649397]

>>2649368
You could probably use the layer range modifier in SuperSlicer. I think Cura can do something similar with the postprocessing function, but its a lot less intuitive

[Anonymous No.2649400]

>>2649391
It's this bitchass piece I posted in the last thread. I narrowed down the issue to the orange layers. As soon is the first one (18) starts it starts shitting itself. I can tell because of the steam. On the print it's shit right at the start of the new layer and gradually fixes itself towards the end of the layer where the seam is. Has to be because of the jump of speed and flow right away. Since yesterday I've done all the filament calibrations (temp, retraction, advance, etc). And I've lowered the max volumetric speed to 15 even though it can definitely go faster. It's better but still not solved. One thing I just thought of that could help is lowering the outer wall speed and maybe the inner speed by like half. That doesn't affect the flow though so I don't know if it will work. Other than that this is my first printer and I'm just guessing things.

>>2649397
I use Orca.

[Anonymous No.2649407]

See how it starts shitting right when it gets to the first layer where the speed and flow get increased. It's much better than before at least and you can tell it adjusts as the layer finishes and then it's fine for the following layers. Not sure if lowering the wall speed but retaining the same flow rate is bad.

[Anonymous No.2649415]

>>2649407
The angle on the chamfer on the bottom is too extreme. It's causing the edge to curl upwards, so when it transitions to no overhangs it's stacking layers on a curled surface.

[Anonymous No.2649423]

>>2649415
Really, that's an extreme angle? Also, wouldn't it be shit throughout the entire layer instead of gradually getting better as the layer finishes?

[Anonymous No.2649427]

>>2649407
It's the classic problem of cooling stress lifting the previous layers away from the build plate. It looks like you're already using a brim, but if necessary you could try using supports and lifting the part off the build plate. You can also try imposing a minimum layer time or putting your speed increase further up so the bottom layers have more time to cool.

[Anonymous No.2649440]

>>2649088
any idea how to decrypt there fucking links?

[Anonymous No.2649449]

>>2649407
This is what I was talking about. Orca has it too, since its based on an amalgam of PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer and Bambu.

Also, try lowering your layer height for better overhangs

[Anonymous No.2649464]

what would cause stringing like this with my Support-G (green)

[Anonymous No.2649473]

>>2649423
>Really, that's an extreme angle?
Sorta. 45 degrees is more or less the division between easy overhangs and overhangs that might cause trouble. In particular, steep overhangs need aggressive cooling to prevent warping. That warping is an emergent effect of multiple parameters, so it may happen unintuitively.

[Anonymous No.2649486]

Printing polycarbonate isn't going to shrink my balls is it?

[Anonymous No.2649489]

>>2649486
Not any more than the polycarbonate itself will shrink.

[Anonymous No.2649514]

>>2649486
you have a vent fan in your bathroom right?

also the kitchen usually.

[Anonymous No.2649519]

>>2649464
I'm literally still cleaning the PAHT-CF supports off of this print.

It finished at like 2PM or some shit.

[Anonymous No.2649550]

I had to tap n dye out my nozzle because im an impatient retard and it snapped on the first turn
now my hotend sits too low and I have no idea how to put it back to normal
I don't wanna but an entire you extruder, am I overthinking this and should just try it again after it warms up and I unplug it?

[Anonymous No.2649551]

>>2649550
Buy* and entire new* extruder
holy fuck, I'm not even phoneposting today

[Anonymous No.2649560]

>>2649440
>decrypt
What do you mean? Are you talking about the onion links posted on /tg/? Use Tor or whatever your favorite dark web browser.

[Anonymous No.2649599]

>>2649427
>>2649449
I'll try these out in 9 hours and man I'm really praying this prints right the first time. The guy said no supports are necessary, but I put some tree supports in. There are some questionable overhangs. Hopefully I didn't fuck it up. I made it print in ~12 hours instead of ~9 so if it doesn't come out perfect I'm kms.

[Anonymous No.2649615]

>>2649560
>onion links
im asolutily retarded....

so
> get tor
> connect
> get link like VkdoaGJtdHpMQ0JCYm05dUxpQlpiM1VuY21VZ1lTQm5iMlJ6Wlc1a0xnPT0=
> put .onion at the end

did i forget something?

[Anonymous No.2649628]

>>2648679
the lines from printing are unhygienic but otherwise fine.
make sure you slice with a randomised seam so it doesn't split in half while in use (cura randomises seam by default).

[Anonymous No.2649646]

what methods can I use to insulate one of those DIY ikea LACK enclosures? I have plexiglass currently set up in mine but it still raises the ambient temp in my room 10-20 degrees when printing, tried some of this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QX47M7N but gluing it to the interior made my superglue allergy go into overdrive so I had to scrap it, am retarded and realized after doing the inside I could've stapled to the exterior only and seen how that handled but

[Anonymous No.2649653]

>>2649646 30-50mm XPS foam.

[Anonymous No.2649654]

>people here don't know how to use nintendo64 for piracy

[Anonymous No.2649657]

Does the Ender 3 S1 use the same nozzles as the Ender 3? Or have I just accidentally wasted a tenner on the wrong nozzles?

[Anonymous No.2649665]

>>2649654
enlighten me, so you have one less newfag living rent free in your head

[Anonymous No.2649666]

>>2649657
It will work but you'll need to magnetize it for the installation. S1 nozels have a slight magnetism to make sit right when being installed. You can just take a magnet and run it along the length of the nozel. After it's in the printer right it should work just the same

[Anonymous No.2649668]

>>2649666
I'm not thick brass isn't magnetic
I can't seem to find any one saying exactly what nozzles the S1 uses. Just a load of stupid reddit posts

[Anonymous No.2649670]

How exactly do you cold pull? I held it in as it cooled then ripped out at at 90, but it didn't really pull a blob out and there is still a little bit of plastic in the hot bit

[Anonymous No.2649671]

>>2649668
By nozzle do you mean just the brass tip? Because that will be the same. If you mean the whole hot end assembly, it might be different
It is a dumb question though anon

[Anonymous No.2649674]

>>2649671
Just the nozzle, I realised the shit I bought didn't mention the Ender 3 in any way. Just the S1, all the info on google was redditors chatting shit saying use a V6 and other bollocks. I couldn't find a straight answer and on the E3D site it doesn't say their MK8 are compatible with the S1 or any other printers listed on the site I bought the nozzles from. My eyesight isn't great so I can't really tell if the thread is the same despite them looking around the same size. So I had to ask here

[Anonymous No.2649678]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxcP74W-PgE
now print your waifu in one go

[Anonymous No.2649708]

measure once, print 4 times, right?

[Anonymous No.2649718]

>>2649708
What's this?

[Anonymous No.2649720]

>Scratched up the heater block with the needle nosed pliers I used to change the nozzle
Will this be a problem long term? Funny how the one in the creality video didn't get marked at all. Bet its not even the same metal

[Anonymous No.2649723]

Printing in petg for the first time, very stringy in the middle. Any pointers from petg vets?

[Anonymous No.2649740]

>>2648679
Not printing directly but you can use a 3D print to make a mold for casting slicone.

[Anonymous No.2649761]

Ive been trying to fix this z seam gap all day now but I just cannot get it to work

Using prusa slicer on an ender 3 s1 running klipper.

0.8mm profile appears to be fine.

Ive tried messing with following stuff I've found online with no success:
- Retraction settings
- Extrusion multiplier
- Speed
- Temperature

Im gonna take a shower now, any help would be appreciated.

[Anonymous No.2649769]

>>2649723
If you have calipers check the extruder settings with a wall test. Use a new nozzle for it.

>>2649761
I have no experience with klipper so don't know what to change but that looks like a kinematics problem. The software thinks the head is drifting more than it actually is. Hopefully some other anon will be of more help.

[Anonymous No.2649779]

>>2649720
Unless you plan on adding 1mm deep scratches every week, you shouldn't have any problems.
Try a different wrench next time, preferably one with parallel jaws

[Anonymous No.2649786]

>>2649779
I used needle nose pliers like the creality video. I'm going to use an adjustable wrench next time I think

[Anonymous No.2649787]

>>2649761
Try tuning pressure advance. AFAIK it messes with the amount extruded at the end of a line.
I recommend the Ellis tuning method.

[Anonymous No.2649809]

>>2649708
Print a calibration test you mongoloid. Make a calibration part that has every hole/shaft size, in every orientation on it to make sure the finished print will fit together. Anything that makes a connection with another part in assembly should get its own calibration part. Alternatively there are models just for learning what tolerances your printer can hold

[Anonymous No.2649820]

>>2649670
https://youtu.be/g8uvh6kvr54?t=139

[Anonymous No.2649822]

>>2649820
This is what I did, I only got PLA though
Only I did it from the other end of the bowden tube as I can't get it out of the hot end for some reason. I just wanted to make sure its clear enough to change a nozzle

[Anonymous No.2649823]

Do any of you guys use anti-seize when putting in nozzles?

[Anonymous No.2649824]

>>2649723
Dry your filament (65C for several hours on a food dehydrator works well). Keep it in an airtight storage container with desiccant when not on the printer. Depending on the brand of filament, you may need to re-dry it after less than a day of open air exposure. PETG that's getting wet becomes stringy and oozy (and this is often the point where good print quality requires drying). PETG that bubbles and steams is very wet, and can leave significant irregularities and voids in the print.

PEG often benefits from a brim in peel-prone shapes like your pic seems to be, but something I often prefer to use instead is to model a small disk of material at the corners that are likely to peel up, maybe 1cm in diameter and 2 layers high. Those are easy to trim off but provide peel resistance right where it's needed. Slicers can do this themselves nowadays.

[Anonymous No.2649827]

>>2649786
Knipex pliers wrenches are way better than adjustable wrenches for most things. I have a small one dedicated for printer nozzle changes. I use it to grip the heater block while removing the nozzle with a T handle torque wrench that's calibrated to proper nozzle tightness. Makes hot tightening and nozzle swaps a breeze.

>>2649823
No. Either the material is not prone to seizing (brass), it's much harder than the heater block (steel, tungsten carbide), or it's coated with seize-resistant materials (copper). Some nozzle manufacturers recommend thermal paste, but the benefits seem to be unclear in testing.

[Anonymous No.2649828]

>>2649723
Also, set your slicer to avoid crossing perimeters. Really cuts down on visible stringing.

[Anonymous No.2649829]

>>2649827
What do you mean by Knipex as thats a brand isn't it?
I don't have a torque wrench but I ordered a cheap socket set off amazon that I hope isn't massive. As the little wrench I got with the printer is no fucking good at all. Also felt it getting hot really quickly

[Anonymous No.2649831]

>>2649829
>What do you mean by Knipex as thats a brand isn't it?
"Knipex" is a brand, "pliers wrench" is a kind of tool made by Knipex. There are some competing products from other manufacturers these days, but the Knipex version is far superior.

The torque wrench I use is the Slice Engineering 1.5nm one. It can hold standard sockets, so it works with all standard nozzles.

[Anonymous No.2649832]

>>2649831
Ah, I thought you meant those but I had no idea what their name is. Thanks for the advice anon

[Anonymous No.2649844]

>30 min left on 12 hour print
>massive Bambu spy flew into my room and hid somewhere before I could catch it

I swear if this little cunt somehow ruins my print.

[Anonymous No.2649856]

>>2649809
that sounds like more work, i just measure it roughly and chuck it into cad, then shit out the part and eyeball the changes.

[Anonymous No.2649861]

>>2649653
seems like a shockingly simple solution since I could just carve notches in it where the printed braces for the plexi sit normally
doesn't XPS start to melt at the temps an enclosure can reach though? Do I need to worry about it offgassing?

[Anonymous No.2649862]

>>2649856
It is certainly more cad work but reprinting it several times is very time consuming

[Anonymous No.2649890]

gonna visit a guy selling an og ender 3 for $80, anything I should check on?

[Anonymous No.2649892]

>>2649890
axis wobble

[Anonymous No.2649918]

>>2649654
the fuck does this general got to do with nintendo

[Anonymous No.2649919]

>>2649769
>>2649787

cheers, will give updates in probably the next general

[Anonymous No.2649924]

>>2649918
Anon is speaking in innuendo. It's not the Nintendo part that's relevant.

[Anonymous No.2650003]

>>2649890
If it turns on, homes, heats up, and can extrude then it's worth $80 in parts. If you've never had a printer like it before there's little point in telling you to check for slop or stick in the axes because you'd not have a frame of reference to compare it to.

See if the seller will print out a calibration cube for you. It shouldn't take too long and that'll show it's health.

[Anonymous No.2650004]

>>2649890
If it turns on and homes it's worth $80 imo.

[Anonymous No.2650006]

I have $20k available, if I wanted to put some into 3d printing, what is the most profitable use of this investment? Yes, I have used some 3d printers a few years ago I know what I may be getting myself into.

[Anonymous No.2650009]

recommend me a good clear resin that wont yellow and isnt a gorillion dollars a kilo

[Anonymous No.2650016]

>>2650006
You aren't going to profit.
I would recommend a good printer such as a p1p and then supplement it with some welding equipment or some benchtop matching equipment in order to make products others can't readily make. 3d printed crap is 3d printed crap. Every retard can get a 3d printer now and sell garbage.
Learn cad, learn electronics, learn welding, learn matching etc and use it along side 3d printing if you actually desire making a profit

[Anonymous No.2650017]

>>2650006
Stocks, Bonds, Real Estate, Toilet Paper, hell even Treasury notes would probably be a better investment.

>>2650009
Unicorn's aren't real. I've heard people clear coating models to keep the UV from yellowing them but never tried. I stopped huffing resin years ago because of the costs and mess. This thread is mostly FDM bros. The resin bros are on another board. I think it's in >>>/tg/ but don't remember for sure.

[Anonymous No.2650019]

>>2650016
Benchtop machining*

[Anonymous No.2650026]

>decide to try out Orcaslicer
>install
>prease rog in
what the fuck

why do people recommend this shit

[Anonymous No.2650035]

>>2650017
I don't wanna go there tho, I'm not a toyfag I like making actual parts and gizmos not gay little figurines. but yeah I know, I mostly meant some resin that won't yellow much just from the printing and curing process mostly.

[Anonymous No.2650036]

>>2650035
https://theopenact.com/2023/saul-pickett

[Anonymous No.2650046]

>>2648673
IS IT POSSIBLE TO 3D PRINT THIS ??

Link related

https://theopenact.com/2023/saul-pickett

[Anonymous No.2650058]

>>2650026
You don't have to log in???

[Anonymous No.2650085]

>>2650035
>I'm not a toyfag I like making actual parts and gizmos
I've had good experiences with Siraya Tech resins. They make a clear one that is supposedly very resistant to yellowing:
https://siraya.tech/products/craft-resin-by-siraya-tech?variant=40149510783085
But material aside, I'd be sure the resin is cured properly with 405nm light. If your current curing setup doesn't have the equivalent of a high output UV flood light blasting the prints, get an actual UV flood light to blast the prints. Fully curing the resin should help prevent damage from solar UV.

[Anonymous No.2650174]

>got an OG Ender3 free from a buddy who bought a newer model
>Tried several times over a few months to get it to print anything reliably, but no matter what it was always fucking up leveling on either the x or y axis where one side wouldn't come close to the bed and the other side was trying to shove the nozzle through the surface
>Finally decide to just disassemble the damned thing and put it back together hoping the frame was just out of square or something
>It kind of works, got a couple okay prints out of it but the leveling is still wonky, have to keep readjusting the z-offset every print because it never seems to stay the same, probably due to the cheap chinkshit unofficial autoleveling sensor and bootleg firmware the thing had
>Decide fuck it, I'm upgrading parts since they were on sale
>4.2.7 silent mainboard, cr touch, new hotend since the old one was corroded to fuck and the threading was fucked so I couldn't replace the nozzle
>Free printer +$70 in upgrades all said, printing great after some initial struggles figuring out which firmware to use and getting the autoleveler to initialize

I have no idea if the cost was worth the amount of effort, but I'm too retarded to give up on free shit

[Anonymous No.2650179]

>put in new nozzle (0.6 from 0.4)
>sides of print are really wobbly
>top is quite rough
Do you think I fucked up the nozzle change? My filament got tangled so I wonder if it just couldn't push enough material through while doing it

[Anonymous No.2650204]

This is overextrusion right? How would I go about working out the correct flowrate? Superslicer has those built in calibration things but I'm mostly using Prusaslicer with it having more features currently

[Anonymous No.2650205]

>>2650204
I just want to add it looked normal when doing the other layers. It was the top layer that seemed to be overextruded

[Anonymous No.2650208]

>>2648760
you really oughta just write your own software for making gyroids.

[Anonymous No.2650220]

Opinions on bed temp for PLA? I've got one of the coated glass beds for the ender 3 and overall it's pretty good for adhesion and releases nicely, but on a lot of prints I get some issues with certain edges curling after the first couple layers go down, mainly it seems to happen on sharp corners for rectangular objects, I'm wondering if a higher bed temp would be advisable. I've messed around with heating the bed to between 55-65C and don't know that I've noticed too much difference. I saw one site suggesting 70C bed for PLA on glass, but other sites saying not to exceed 65C. Are there any genuine concerns with pushing the bed temp that high?

[Anonymous No.2650239]

>>2650174
>one side wouldn't come close to the bed and the other side was trying to shove the nozzle through the surface
You are correct, its the upright parts of the frame not being square, one will be leaning towards the front or the back of the printer.
I had the same problem and ended up having to file the bottom of one of the upright extrusions to get it to sit correctly. But also make sure the bltouch wires are not too tight and tugging on the sensor at the far ends of x axis travel.

[Anonymous No.2650243]

>>2650220
Get a cheap laser thermometer and measure the actual surface temperature of the glass. There's a good chance your plate is cold on top, while the thermistor measures 60 on the bottom.

Or just try 70 or 80. Worst that can happen is your model gets too gooey at the bottom, and develops some deformities. No danger to health or your machine.

[Anonymous No.2650244]

>>2650239
Yeah, disassembling and reassembling pretty much took care of that. The thing had been moved around several times still assembled between houses and put in storage and shit, so I'm not surprised shit was all out of square, I just hadn't gotten around to trying to fix it until recently.

[Anonymous No.2650245]

>>2650204
To add to this top is superslicer bottom is prusaslicer

There is deffo overextrusion right? or is 0.6mm nozzles just awful at surfaces? The sides aren't even straight they are concave

[Anonymous No.2650246]

>>2650243
Yeah that's a good point. I'll probably try pushing the temp to 70 on my next print and see how that goes, but I may still look into an IR thermometer like you mentioned since I'd already been thinking about grabbing one for other stuff.

[soon No.2650306]

Do you guys know what could be causing these lines? They're always related to some type of geometry if that makes sense. It's like when the extruder finishes printing the circle shape and moves back to the edge of the print to start a new layer? It does it on corners too. When it gets to a corner shape of a section it moves to the outside of the shape to start a new layer or something and it creates this line. Not sure how to explain it. Something related to z hop maybe? Making it lift when moving away to start a new layer so it doesn't drag on the surface? I don't know, I'm making shit up at this point.

[Anonymous No.2650307]

Just getting started and figure I should probably have a pair of calipers so I have something to work with when I'm modeling/adjusting stuff and for checking accuracy on prints after they finish. Any recommendations to look at/stay away from? Can I just grab whatever shit's cheap off amazon or is there a minimum investment to get something worthwhile I should aim for?

[Anonymous No.2650308]

>>2650306
Just looks like the spots where the printer filled in that layer in different sections, since it didn't hit those spots continuously you get a more clear visual indicator of where it stopped then came back and started again

[Anonymous No.2650326]

>>2650308
Prusa users don't get these so it must be some setting or calibration.

[Anonymous No.2650367]

how do i tell my printer to avoid my bed clips? someone here told me simply decreasing the size of my print bed in the slicer would be enough but turns out it isnt.
i know about homing safe margin, but that obviously only works for homing.
how do i do the same for the actual printing moves?

[Anonymous No.2650373]

>>2650306
pressure advance settings are fucked; that shows up on the change in direction at the extents of fill. The overlap that you have when it starts/stops/resumes fill in different locations is a result of extrusion multiplier, a slight amount of overextrusion. These are somewhat difficult to get exactly perfect, but you should be able to adjust to minimize these from what you've shown pretty easily.

[Anonymous No.2650389]

>>2650367
just replace the bed with a magnetic one or something. imo it is not worth wasting your time on retarded Ender3 crap like that.

t. Bambu owner (wish it were American)

[Anonymous No.2650418]

>>2650367
for the time being just remove the two clips that are in the way of your print, there's really no need to use 4 with a rigid material like glass

[Anonymous No.2650440]

>Curling again
What in the ungodly fuck.
I turn the fans to maximum
I turn the fans to zero
I try the lowest temperature at which PETG will print properly in my machine
I try reducing ovehang speeds to a grinding halt
I try dialing Zhops in
I try reducing bed temperature
I Try increasing minimum layer time
I try drying the spool
Yet shit is still starting to curl at the same fucking spot all the time. It did not happen back when i started yet now it happens all of the fucking time there are overhangs. Only way i have found to fix it is to secerely reduce speeds in the printer itself, but that fucks up and gets the filament stuck in the throat of the hot end.
I have no odea what the fuck should i do to fix it while i am waiting for a (hopefully) better machine to arrive in august.

[Anonymous No.2650495]

Im not smart enough to get solid works so i downloaded solid edge. So far its a huge pain in the ass, do all 3d design programs have such a steep learning curve? I dont even know how to pan around and half the time if i make a mistake it says i cant delete this sketch.

[Anonymous No.2650506]

>>2650306
PrusaSlicer & co. has a setting called monotonic infill, which specifically adresses this artifact

[Anonymous No.2650519]

>>2650373
Pressure advance is set up perfectly. Can't be that.

[. !qaLOSTEwAs No.2650545]

>>2650367
careful part arrangement or >>2650389

[Anonymous No.2650546]

>>2650506
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130

[Anonymous No.2650547]

>>2650246
Well, tried 70 and I think it's a bit better but still definitely some curling happening. Hard to tell how bad it is since the current print is round and all I can see is the supports until it finishes. Guess I'll try 80 on the next one and see how that goes, hopefully that'll just overshoot and I can dial it back gradually.

Otherwise guess I'll start using a brim on everything until I get it sorted.

[Anonymous No.2650548]

>>2650389
>>2650545
Not that anon, but I've also got a glass bed and was thinking about trying a magnetic one. Any recommendations for good ones for the ender 3 (original)? If I ever decide to go back for whatever reason is it a huge pain in the ass to use a glass bed once you've stuck down the magnet layer or can you just pretend it's not there pretty easily?

[. !qaLOSTEwAs No.2650555]

>>2650548
i got recommended PEI spring steel ones, even the cheapo PEI "generic" ones work good enough

[Anonymous No.2650569]

>>2650555
I'll look into that. Any thoughts on textured vs smooth? I'm assuming textured is supposed to be better for adhesion at the cost of a less smooth base?

[Anonymous No.2650570]

>>2650085
ok ill give that stuff a try. and yeah i have a wash and cure setup, has a mirrored rotary table with a tower of leds. thats the thing though, it was going yellow just from curing. as a liquid its clear, after printing its slightly off, then when cured it goes all 7 year old car headlights.

[Anonymous No.2650589]

Has anyone here won a 3d printing contest?

[Anonymous No.2650595]

>>2650589
>3d printing contest
The fuck kind of retarded faggot shit is this?

[Anonymous No.2650598]

>>2650595
Its a way of proving you aren't just some retard that downloads all his models

[Anonymous No.2650604]

>>2650598
To who, your wife's boyfriend?

[Anonymous No.2650619]

I fell for the tree supports meme. It came out nowhere near this clean.

[Anonymous No.2650620]

Speaking of downloading models, I've been thinking about getting a 3D printer and printing out and painting some anime figures. Is that a thing? I don't really care about the legality of it

[Anonymous No.2650621]

>>2650619
>he fell for the meme
Idk why youpoopers keep pushing it

[Anonymous No.2650627]

Roast my ender 3 rice:

My spare nozzle, thermistor, and heat-sink-clamp are yet to arrive via a seperate package from TriangleLab, for some reason.
Still got dual-Z shit and tie rods and oldham couplers and such coming.

fug accidentally posted in wrong general

[Anonymous No.2650650]

>>2650006
depends on what your goal is
e.g. if you just want to tinker around, get a basic bitches ender3
if you want to make something reliable to turn it into a sidehustle, I’d agree with going for a x1c or p1s, then maybe expand your workshop to a laser cutter and a desktop cnc
if you just want to make some adapters and other doodads for your home, any of the Klipper-driven bedslingers will do

[Anonymous No.2650663]

>>2650006
a print farm of Bambus with multicolor/multi filament.
maybe a few resin printers or belt printers too

[Anonymous No.2650666]

>>2650326
It's Prusaslicer having monotonic infill as the default top/bottom settings rather than rectilinear. Those infill patterns are the same except that monotonic specifically avoids the alteration of fill direction that causes those lines.

[Anonymous No.2650667]

>>2650569
Smooth is better for adhesion (suitable for PLA), while textured is a lower adhesion suitable for PETG. Generally speaking, that is. Specific formulations of stickiness can vary by manufacturer, so check the recommendations.

[Anonymous No.2650669]

>>2650604
To a 3D design repository, I would assume. Printables has regular contests, for example.

[Anonymous No.2650670]

>>2650620
>Is that a thing?
Yes. Ask /tg/ for advice on how to do it. You'll probably be looking at a resin printer and model paints.

[Anonymous No.2650681]

>>2650666
The default on Orca is monotonic line or something and according to Bambu's wiki it's supposed to be better than just monotonic. I changed it though and I'll do a test print later. It's sucks that I'm learning these things as I'm nearly out of filament.

[Anonymous No.2650684]

>>2650681
>monotonic line or something and according to Bambu's wiki it's supposed to be better than just monotonic
Monotonic zigzags back and forth in one continuous line of plastic. Monotonic line does a series of separate parallel lines. It's a little slower, but the appearance is more uniform, especially at the ends where you can have both passes fluid at the same time like in >>2650204.

[Anonymous No.2650687]

>>2650667
>Smooth is better for adhesion (suitable for PLA)
Is this assuming using something on the bed for adhesion like hairspray? Everything I've been seeing has mentioned that a textured bed is specifically better for first level adhesion because of the increased surface area for the first layer to adhere to. I know it can vary by coating material like you mentioned, just trying to understand since I'm still pretty new to this.

[Anonymous No.2650688]

Why do my top layers have a little ledge over the rest, could it be overextrusion?

[Anonymous No.2650690]

>>2650684
Cool. Thoughts and opinions on only one wall on top surfaces and avoid crossing wall? I'm testing right now and I feel like the former does nothing important, and the latter I can't even tell what exactly it's doing and if it works, or in what scenario it would be most noticeable.

[Anonymous No.2650706]

I am being driven insane. I lowered flowrate a little and the top surface is much better but I still have this insane wobble going on

[Anonymous No.2650708]

>>2650706
forgot pic

[Anonymous No.2650711]

>>2650708
on closer inspection it looks like the top few layers shifted
Gonna try it again and hope it was just an error

[Anonymous No.2650720]

>>2650708
a fine collection of layer shifts, sir

[Anonymous No.2650721]

>>2650547
Got another print running with bed at 80 now, it's a relatively wide flat item with squarish corners which is the type of thing I've seen the most issues with curling on, not too far into the print yet but so far it looks better so hopefully this did the trick

[Anonymous No.2650722]

>>2650720
Yeah its fucked innit, how do I fix?

[Anonymous No.2650723]

>>2650722
install gentoo

[Anonymous No.2650725]

>>2650723
gotcha

[Anonymous No.2650730]

>>2650722
if I had to guess
>speed/acceleration too high
>z or e steps, or flow rate fucked where the nozzle catches the part either (or both) of which causing a skip and therefore a layer shift

[Anonymous No.2650737]

hello niggas, I need to make a plastic tray for a coffee machine, it's purpose is to redirect and drain the dripping water when the machine is not in use or whenever some retard forgets to put a cup in the machine. do you think that PETG will be good enough? it doesn't hold any weight or anything but the water is 100C, I'm thinking it should be fine since even if it gets soft it's not under any real load. would it deform? I would print it in abs but I don't have an enclosure. any other filament suggestions are welcome, if there is anything such as HT PETG I would be interested

[Anonymous No.2650738]

>>2650730
So I could need to increase z-hop? I just tightened the X belt and I'm going to try it again. I just did another before doing that and it didn't turn out as bad. Wonder if something is fucked or it was just good RNG

[Anonymous No.2650741]

>>2650737
it wouldn't be ideal, but if it's just redirecting the flow rather than collecting and holding the liquid you might be able to get away with it. I'd make sure it had a pretty substantial slope to minimize contact time and make sure any part that's going to be in contact with the hot liquid is plenty thick just to be safe. Probably also want a pretty rigid frame that's safe from heat exposure just to prevent warping of the part overall.

[Anonymous No.2650742]

>>2650708
It may or may not be your issue, but the last time I had bad layer shifting, a faulty SDcard was the culprit

[Anonymous No.2650745]

>>2650742
I'll have to try another, the one I'm using is an ancient 512mb one from my old galaxy s2. I could probably fetch the 64gb one I have in my wii u and see if that fares better

[Anonymous No.2650747]

>>2650741
what would be the ideal plastic for this and optionally is there one that can be printed without an enclosure

[Anonymous No.2650757]

>>2650747
Something like polyproylene would probably work great, but I'm not familiar with the conditions needed for printing with it. A quick google shows that there are probably some special needs for getting it to adhere to the bed and that an enclosure might be recommended though not necessarily required.

That said you can get an enclosure pretty fuckin cheap on amazon for most printers if that's the only thing holding you back.

[Anonymous No.2650759]

>>2650721
Holy fuck, even at 80 bed temp this shit is still peeling at the corners. What in the actual shit. Do I really need an enclosure just to print with fucking PLA?

[Anonymous No.2650760]

Looks like its shifted around the same spot. Not as bad but still there
I'll try a different SD card I couldn't hear or see any signs of nozzle crashing when I was looking at it

[Anonymous No.2650761]

>>2650760
Huffing these fumes is damaging my brain

[Anonymous No.2650762]

>>2650759
Have you tried washing the plate with dish soap, or wiping it down with rubbing alcohol? Dirt from your fingers FUCKS adhesion on some bed materials. Even just sitting for too long without being touched will result in an unusable surface due to oils and dirt floating in the air.

[Anonymous No.2650765]

>>2650762
I've cleaned with alcohol between prints and not seen a difference, guess I can try giving it a good scrub with soap next time beforehand and see if there's any change.

[Anonymous No.2650767]

>>2650690
One wall on top is aesthetic only, and avoid crossing walls changes your travels to run inside infill instead of going directly. Enable travels in the visualization, and you should be able to see the difference.

[Anonymous No.2650769]

>>2650767
I can see the travels yeah, but I just don't understand what that accomplishes in the end really.

[Anonymous No.2650770]

>go shower
>find a piece of filament in my boxers

[Anonymous No.2650771]

>>2650737
You can print ABS no problem without an enclosure. Just use slurry or some other compound to help adhesion. This has worked fine since the reprap days.

Or you could just get some modified ABS like >>2648850 that prints with no enclosure.

Or you could print PLA and anneal it in an oven. They even make Volcano PLA specifically for this purpose, which features low warp when annealing. One of the big yootubers even made and used an espresso cup out of Volcano PLA

[Anonymous No.2650772]

>>2650769
If you have a material that's prone to oozing, its better to ooze inside the models infill instead of outside when traveling. This reduces stringing and blobs/zits

[Anonymous No.2650777]

>>2650765
Next time you print, snap a pic of your first layer. Might be low adhesion due to bad layer squish, or maybe too high speed when laying down the corners. Try lowering first layer speed to 10-20mm/s

Also, could be due to the PLA being shitty. I have some very shitty German "TruePLA" which requires 70c on my PEI bed. No other brand i own has this problem, and prints fine at 60

[Anonymous No.2650778]

>>2650777
I was actually just looking at settings for lowering first layer speed, my slicer had that setting hidden by default so I wasn't even thinking about it but that would make a lot of sense to me. The PLA I'm using is "Hatchbox" black PLA filament, pretty sure I just grabbed it because I saw it recommended on a google search a while back for a decent cheap option.

[Anonymous No.2650781]

>>2650778
Never used Hatchbox, but heard its good. Probably not your issue then.

[Anonymous No.2650790]

WE DID IT BROS
Sort of, no more z-shifts maybe it was the SD card. Put the one I got with the printer back in. Now the entire top is bulging out equally which I assume may be caused by the nozzle being too close to the bed? Feels like I'm back at square one

[Anonymous No.2650791]

>>2650687
>Is this assuming using something on the bed for adhesion like hairspray?
No, though smooth is usually a better surface for such coatings if you'll be using them. The comparison I'm making is between smooth PEI film and textured PEI powdercoating. Uncoated smooth PEI film works well for PLA, but PETG sticks so hard that it easily pulls chunks of PEI off. Uncoated textured PEI powdercoating works well for PETG, but PLA easily peels regardless of print parameters. Depending on manufacturer, of course, but PEI film is a fairly standard product. You can get rolls of it yourself and make your own print sheets.

[Anonymous No.2650794]

>>2650690
>Thoughts and opinions on only one wall on top surfaces and avoid crossing wall?
Only one wall on top is nice for multi-perimeter prints, though that's mostly for aesthetics. Avoid crossing perimeters helps prevent surface blemishes in ooze-prone material like PETG or TPU, and it can be very important for tight-fitting parts and smooth surfaces. I have it on by default for PETG and TPU, situationally elsewhere. Not as important if you keep your filament dry.

[Anonymous No.2650796]

>>2650790
Never had elephant's foot on top layers, that's the first time I've seen that. Possibly over-extrusion

[Anonymous No.2650797]

>>2650791
Okay, that makes sense to me. So for example this here would be a good candidate for PLA printing based on what you're saying, yeah?

https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Removable-Flexible-Magnetic-235x235mm/dp/B082PFL8TX

[Anonymous No.2650799]

>>2650797
Reviews seem favorable.

[Anonymous No.2650801]

>>2650796
I'm unsure desu. I did read that the top layer can get fucked up from the bottom layer being wrong but that could have just been someone chatting shit
Really twisting my melon getting this new nozzle dialled in. I need to get rid of that pretty bad elephants foot first and then hopefully the top layer issue will go away. Either that or I move back to SuperSlicer for now as I have more control in that

[Anonymous No.2650805]

>>2650801
In 3d printing the first layer is very important and fuck-ups in the first layer will translate from anything minor like elephant's foot to total print failures. Your elephant's foot is honestly not that bad but it is odd that it seems to affect more than the first 1-3 layers, I've never had that happen. I still get elephant's foot on a lot of my prints that I just accept, buy a deburring tool and zip zip elephant's foot taken care of.

[Anonymous No.2650806]

>>2650801
Is that printed solid, or is there infill between solid top and bottom surfaces?

[Anonymous No.2650810]

>>2650805
I think thats just nozzle height fuckup maybe? How does Prusaslicer's elephants foot compo work? It's set to 0.1 by default and I'm using a 0.6mm nozzle atm. I guess I should try increasing it?
>>2650806
Adaptive cubic infil

Also thanks for the help you guys offer I appreciate it

[Anonymous No.2650818]

>>2650810
Sorry can't help you as I don't have experience with prusa slicer. I've got 3 hours before my next print is done and if cura has an elephant's foot compensation setting I'll give it a try and post my findings. Also that infill looks really damn sparse, the lowest I ever go is 15% gyroid or 20% cubic.

[Anonymous No.2650819]

>>2650818
Its on 15%, maybe I'll just normal cubic or gyroid tomorrow

[Anonymous No.2650822]

>>2650772
>>2650794
Makes sense now. Probably barely useful for PLA I assume.

[Anonymous No.2650823]

>>2650738
z Hop is a bandaid. you need to make sure your z and e steps are correct (and at that point might as well check x and y too) as well as your flow rate. if those are all tuned then there should be no reason for your nozzle to ever be touching the part enough for it to hang up and lose steps. could also happen if you're acceleration and jerk is too high, but kind of doubt it since it's happening in x not y and y is going to be a shitload heavier. still however since steppers lose torque as they speed up, if you're trying to run it at a million millimeters per second even a slight hang up could cause it to lose steps.

[Anonymous No.2650826]

>>2650823
They are correct, 20x20x20 cube comes out fine except the Z is usually slightly off as I didn't get the nozzle the right height (but I have once). Extruder is good too
I'm just wondering if PrusaSlicer has totally garbage settings for 0.6mm nozzles on the Ender 3 Neo, I'm just using its default settings atm

[Anonymous No.2650829]

>>2650810
Is that for an FD?

[Anonymous No.2650831]

>>2650829
Yes... But its just something flat I can test print until I get surfaces done perfectly. If I get a nice one I might put it on my PC case

[Anonymous No.2650836]

Anyone have experience with the P1P aftermarket hotend and hardened steel CHT clone?

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805060155815.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.21ef1802OfOFhx&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

[Anonymous No.2650837]

>>2650836
>aliexpress

No. Definitely not.

[Anonymous No.2650838]

im getting these weird extrusion issues in both my rafts as well as support structures if i set it to cubic. i dont get this on perimiters, top surface layers or my usual choice of hilbert curve infill. what could be the issue?

[Anonymous No.2650839]

>>2650838
here is one for the cubic infill

[Anonymous No.2650840]

>>2650836
wouldn't that just abrade copper particles into the plastic and risk clogging?

[Anonymous No.2650841]

>>2650840
That's what I was thinking too.

[Anonymous No.2650867]

So I'm making this lantern as you do when you get your first printer. Can't wait until it's done.

[Anonymous No.2650873]

>>2650867
Except that of course I bought M3 inserts instead of M4. I gotta figure out how to edit the model to change the insert hole size. You guys think this can be done in the slicer? Making a cylinder or something and merging the two? I kind of tried it already but I couldn't be sure if the dimensions are proper. Shouldn't there be a measuring tool in there? Can't find it. Other option is to do it in blender.

[Anonymous No.2650879]

>>2650810
>How does Prusaslicer's elephants foot compo work?
It warps the first layer in by that amount, so that as it squishes out, it assumes the desired dimension.

[Anonymous No.2650881]

>>2650879
so if the bottom layer pops out a lot I should lower the value?

[Anonymous No.2650883]

>>2650881
If it pops out a lot, you should increase the value so that the first layer is farther in to start.

[Anonymous No.2650884]

>>2650883
Gotcha, thanks man

[Anonymous No.2650899]

>>2650873
Never mind I did it. This has to work.

[Anonymous No.2650940]

I need to stop trying to print multiple pieces at a time, it just doubles the time it takes for me to figure out that one of the pieces is totally fucked because it came loose partway through and has layer shift all over the fucking place

[Anonymous No.2650983]

What's a good beginner resin 3d printer, my budget is $100-250

[Anonymous No.2650992]

>>2650983
One of the Ender 3 models

[Anonymous No.2651001]

Hey guys, I'm on the fence on getting a bambu p1s, will it be good to print 3d miniatures and then paint them? I believe that will be my main use, mostly interested in things like tanks and planes. Resin is a nono because dirty, fumes and sticky

[Anonymous No.2651003]

>>2651001
Resin is the best for minis

[Anonymous No.2651007]

Can I make my printer beep when its finished printing?

[Anonymous No.2651014]

>>2651007
Yeah, add end gcode in your slicer
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M300.html

[Anonymous No.2651015]

>>2650627
>Stock creality spec fans on what looks like a nice hotend

[Anonymous No.2651016]

>>2651014
thanks bro

[Anonymous No.2651017]

>>2651014
Alternatively, if you're running octoprint you can use something like this to do it but prevent it from waking you up at night and shit

https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/FriendlyNeighborhoodBeeper/

[Anonymous No.2651024]

>>2650992
I have an ender 3 pro already, it's an FDM 3d printer. I was specifically asking about resin 3d printers

[Anonymous No.2651025]

>>2651024
A resin ender 3

[Anonymous No.2651026]

Guess who forgot to fully purge all the PLA+ from the printer before starting a print with PETG? Cracked along the layer as soon as I tried to cut off the brim with a miniscule bit of force.

[Anonymous No.2651053]

I find it a bit difficult to believe that all the math nerds built the 2d slicer software algorithms and then when they realized 3d slicing would be useful too they just said "nah fuck it, it's good enough".

So is there a legit reason we don't have 3d slicing yet? It would probably save time and money to print different "columns" up until a support interface layer before switching filament to print the support interfaces then switching back.

[Anonymous No.2651054]

>>2651053
The vast majority of machines are not equipped to print in any way other than bottom-to-top, layer-by-layer. Machines that work differently exist but they are complex and expensive and the current method works fine for most people and most use cases.

[Anonymous No.2651055]

>>2651053
Because printing from the bottom up means you don't have to worry about collisions. Also it wouldn't save anytime because x/y travel is a lot faster than z travel.

[Anonymous No.2651076]

>>2651015
What fans should I get instead? I don't really trust creality fans, but are there noctuas or whatever that are small enough for this? I can cram a 12V converter somewhere I guess, though I'd rather make a custom board for native 24V and 12V (maybe also 240VAC) driving.

>>2651053
Cooling fans and heater block geometry limit the maximum non-planar angle you can print at. For now, we don't have any printers designed with non-planar in mind and so the demand for slicers that can handle it isn't very high. But even with an optimally designed printer, say you get 10mm of unobstructed downwards protrusion with a narrow heater block, like a SuperVolcano, and have part cooling fans mounted on the side of the printer. Any vertical structures you print will interfere with the horizontal part cooling airflow. If you need filament-swapping in order to get the full capability out of non-planar, are you not better off just getting a dual-hot-end printer? The best multi-material use comes with interleaving TPU with rigid filaments, which non-planar won't help with. The only advantage is with supports, which we have other workarounds for, like arc overhangs. Non-planar overhangs are promising though, I have to admit.

Personally I'm interested in non-planar not for faster multi-material use or better supports, but for stronger prints where the "grain" of the print follows its form.

[Anonymous No.2651093]

>>2650777
Kinda hard to see because it's black on black, but I think this one is doing better so far. Went ahead and cleaned the bed really well with soap and water then wiped it down with alcohol, set the bed temp back down to 70, and dropped the initial layer speed to 20mm/s. I am also printing with a brim this time just because if it didn't work I really didn't want to have to reprint this part again. The closest corner to the camera there is the one I've had the most trouble with curling so far.

[Anonymous No.2651123]

>>2651093
That looks really good so far. Cant quite tell if you could afford to reduce the Z probe offset a little due to color and lighting, but if you continue to experience issues that would be my go-to

Not sure if you said earlier, but if have not calibrated e-steps and flow rate for that material, that might also be a source of issues. I usually make sure my extruder is on-point before I run the standard bed level test prints. Since probe offset calibration is done by eye, i want to make sure over-extrusion doesn't mess with the results.

[Anonymous No.2651124]

>>2651123
I'll see how it looks in the morning and go from there, hoping the adjustments I made and cleaning the bed were enough. If it looks good I might try another test piece without the brim to see how much that was contributing.

[Anonymous No.2651127]

>>2649628
no randomize gives things a pock mark texture around the entire object more like you want to align them to a corner or paint where you want them so its uniform

[Anonymous No.2651132]

>>2649657
when looking for nozzles the important info is the screw pitch and the lengths involved how long is the nozzle from tip to heat block do you have clearance are you gonna have to move your z-probe?, and also how deep the threads needs to go a deep volcano heat vagina block? or a cheap ender dicklet and of course your nozzle extrusion diameter honestly if it "looked" like your nozzle it might fit unless the thread pitch is off and you clamp down on the bitch ruining the heatblock and never making a proper seal forever oozing out the threads instead of the nozzle leaving you to relearn only this time you need a heat block that matches your nozzles and heat "break" assembly

[Anonymous No.2651133]

>>2649832
channel lock pliers

[Anonymous No.2651138]

>>2650174
warped bed usually time to get or make a z-probe i tried going probe less when i started after a week or two with more failed first layer than not with endless fucking fiddling, i invested in z-probe's... calibrate once! and that will stay the same till you change nozzle or it gets its tip worn away or the probe "moves"

[Anonymous No.2651149]

instead of 3d printing metal from powder layers could you theoretically laser/plasma cut the layers into paper thin sheets, then stack them together, and then sinter them?

[Anonymous No.2651150]

>>2651149
saw this with fiber glass sheets and material of choice gluing them together

[Anonymous No.2651176]

>>2651149
Sintering works when you have a high surface area for grains to grow into one another. Sheets of steel wouldn't really do that. But it might be doable to braze them together using a large oven.

[Anonymous No.2651203]

>>2651127
Aligning them into a seam links the individual weak spots into a fissure that extends through your print. Good for aesthetics, bad for mechanical properties.

[Anonymous No.2651204]

>>2651133
Neither non-marring nor parallel. They have their suitable use cases, but changing printer nozzles is not one of them.

[Anonymous No.2651206]

I only watch Nathan and the aussie guy on 3D printing information.

[Anonymous No.2651209]

>>2651124
Well I have no idea which change made the difference or if it was a combination of everything, but that print came out perfectly with zero curling. Thanks for the advice guys.

[Anonymous No.2651210]

>>2651138
Well I mean I mentioned right there in the post that there was already an auto-level probe, it was just an unsupported Chinese mystery item of questionable quality that didn't seem to be working correctly. I also mentioned that one of the upgrades I grabbed was a cr touch probe, which I am currently using and it seems to be working perfectly.

[Anonymous No.2651253]

>>2651149
>>2651176
don't think it would work well for the simple fact of how would you keep them all perfectly in place while being fused and even if you could it's almost guaranteed that it would warp like crazy

[Anonymous No.2651274]

hey im not a lurker here on diy normally so forgive any obvious retard mistakes

i have an ender 3 pro with the 4.2.7 card and a microswiss direct drive (and a glass bed though i doubt that matters for my current issue)

>buy cr touch because leveling gay and im lazy
>physical install goes well you tube made it too easy and everything was pretty obvious
>push firmware literally just plugging in sd card with bin file sweet
the file was taken from the creality website pic related
>next step level bed for the last time
FUCK
>the z offset wont go low enough
>it thinks its way lower than it is
>push old firmware then push new firmware again
>hell yeah the low ride er is a little printer (george lopez jumping dot gif)
>jk
>wont print
>it just auto homes and sits still it heats the nozzle and bed and just stops

im using the most recent cura slicer if that matters
thanks sorry im a smooth brain

[Anonymous No.2651276]

RX-7 idiot back again. Increased elephant foot comp and now I have this, the top layer still overhangs like this. Trying changing the flow rate from 0.95 down to 0.9 now and hoping that improves things
I've also took the top off my table and placed it right on the floor to eliminate any shaking that was happening
>>2651274
Did you set the probe offset? I'm no expert but I'm sure there is a setting for how far offset from the nozzle the probe is

[Anonymous No.2651281]

>>2651003
I know, I had an anycubic photon in the past but it's too much hassle and I don't want the fumes near the baby now. I know resin will always give out better quality, I'm eyeing for the "good enough" category. After some research it looks like small layer heights + 0.2mm nozzle may give out the kind of results I'm looking for.

[Anonymous No.2651287]

>>2651281
Check how long each mini will take you. Might be worth building a little fume hood to extract then out a window if you have a room you can close off and keep the babby out of

[Anonymous No.2651299]

>>2651276
Yes sorry thats what I meant by the low rider joke I was able to successfully set the z offset after the second push. Do I just update until it works or should I try the BL firmware from creality?
ive google and youtubed as much as a can but i still have yet to find people using the cr touch and the 4.2.7
tons or people using the 4.2.2
am i just SOL?

i dont want to brick the card

[Anonymous No.2651300]

>>2651299
Check the settings on the printer itself I'm sure its in there. I'd look for you and send a pic but mine is currently printing yet another RX-7 badge

[Anonymous No.2651302]

>>2651274
I just did the same thing as you for a base ender 3, every time I tried to print it would get to the point where it was supposed to auto-level, error out and fail.

The fix was to go into the settings on the printer itself and run the auto-level once there to initialize it, after that it worked fine.

I also had to set the probe x/y offsets though, because by default it was going too far into the first corner and the probe would completely miss the bed, so make sure you check those first.

[Anonymous No.2651303]

>>2651299
>>2651302
And for the record, I am using CReality's BL touch firmware for the 4.2.7 board on Ender 3

[Anonymous No.2651304]

I think the bottom is dodgy cos of corners lifting maybe? The top going out I'm really struggling to pin down. Top is 0.9 flowrate bottom is 0.95

[Anonymous No.2651306]

>>2651304
Yeah corners lifting is definitely your issue on the bottom there, I was just struggling with the same issue. Could be part/most of your issue with the top too since any lift at the bottom will translate all the way up, hard to tell from that picture though, maybe less vaseline on the lens next time

[Anonymous No.2651310]

>>2651306
Its really hard to get it to focus on the object
I might try printing something else
I'll take another pic when the next badge with new settings is done

[Anonymous No.2651311]

>>2651310
For what it's worth, see >>2651093 to see what I did to fix my issue with corners peeling up during the print. The print I did directly before making those changes had a ton of warping, even worse than the one in your pic.

[Anonymous No.2651312]

>>2651311
My first layer is down to 15mm/s already. I might flip my plate over and start using a gluestick desu. The PEI coating is getting sorta worn

As long as I can get it to print a rocktopus & some license plate keyrings that isn't fucked up I'm good anyway

[Anonymous No.2651314]

Got another print running to see if I can replicate my good results without a brim, and it's looking good so far. Just did a quick wipe with alcohol right before starting for this one.

>>2651312
Could be the coating I suppose yeah, I really don't know how much of my fix was the charged settings and how much was just cleaning the fuck out of the bed, but the coating on mine is pretty beat up in spots.

You don't happen to have any air vents near the printer or anything do you? A cold draft could definitely be part of the issue, especially if it's happening mostly on one side.

[Anonymous No.2651317]

>>2651314
Its on the floor but there is a window open above it. No wind today though, it has been an issue in the past.
I wonder if its just cos its flat its causing me issues

[Anonymous No.2651334]

Really can't seem to stop getting this bulge
I noticed its present on old keyrings I made with my 0.4 nozzle but its not as noticeable. Wonder wtf Ive been doing wrong and how to fix it
Might just have to pull my hair out getting z-offset bang on

[Anonymous No.2651355]

Big brain bros, I edited the base of this lithophane lantern so it can accommodate an arduino nano, a screw in DC jack, and a power switch. This is my first time doing stuff like that. You think it will work well? I'll just print a cover for the arduino after and velcro it on so the cables aren't exposed. If this even prints properly.

[Anonymous No.2651357]

>>2651355
You're gonna need supports on that square hole thing, if you use tree/organic supports you can have something noodle up from the buildplate

[Anonymous No.2651361]

>>2651357
Yeah I'm already printing. I couldn't get the supports how I wanted them but let's just say it's a test print. I was asking about the overall design. For the supports, since it needs them on the inside, I wanted something that starts from the top layer on the inside and supports the bottom of the extruded part where the switch will be, but without touching the overhang wall if that makes sense. Couldn't make it work but I've seen images of other people doing just that.

[Anonymous No.2651362]

Looking at the issues people have I'm glad I bought a P1P even though the aftermarket sucks.

[Anonymous No.2651366]

>>2651362
I was just about to post how shit the p1p is and how I'm about to start crying. What is this?

[Anonymous No.2651370]

>>2651366
Sorry, I'm too smooth brained and new. Is that warping or shrinking?

[Anonymous No.2651373]

Does anyone have wisdom they can share as to why this specific wall prints horrifically while the other walls of the part print fine? Using overture pla on a P1P, 220°, .4mm nozzle, outer walls =200mm/s, inner walls = 300 mm/s, no enclosure. The wall speed seems very high to me, but I am confused as to why only this outer wall here prints like shit and grinds the nozzle. OrcaSlicer reports the same flow rate/speed/temps for all walls too.

[Anonymous No.2651376]

>>2651370
I don't know but it looks gay and it shouldn't be happening. Gonna see when the print is done.

[Anonymous No.2651394]

speaking of P1P's, I've had enough of fucking with my ender, but doing it for a couple years now and it's great when it works but when it isn't I want to throw it out the window I just don't want to fuck with it anymore.
was thinking about getting an X1c but I don't know if I want to drop that much coin when this is just a hobby, I was thinking a P1P but I also wanted to print nylon and stuff and didn't want to fuck around making an enclosure. so now the P1S is out, am I correct in that just being a P1P with a factory installed p1p upgrade kit and enclosure? cuz if so for 100 bucks more than a p1p I'll buy that fucker tonight.

>t. totally not a bambu shill trust me bro

[Anonymous No.2651401]

>>2651373
220c is probably too low for 300mm/s
Did you calibrate your flow rate for that speed&material?

0.2 layers @ 300mm/s requires at least 20mm3/s of flow, which is quite high for what I'm used to getting with PLA at those temps.
AFAIK Bambus own profiles uses very high temps to facilitate the higher flow rates

As for why its only happening on one side, I'm guessing you got unlucky with a blob, which then snowballed.

[Anonymous No.2651402]

>>2651394
>factory installed p1p upgrade kit and enclosure?

Yes. Get the hardened steel hot end if you don't want to buy the Ali cloned stuff.

[Anonymous No.2651411]

Damn bros how do I fix this? It will obviously create visible lines. I have to make it print at the same speed there.

[Anonymous No.2651413]

>>2651394
There's other small upgrades already included if you're looking enclose a p1p. Us p1p cucks that bought it recently are all mad we didn't get the p1s.

[Anonymous No.2651417]

>>2651402
>>2651413
say no more, firing up the credit card now

[Anonymous No.2651433]

>>2651417
I'd get a Prusa if i could though. Bambu is a chinese botnet.

[Anonymous No.2651434]

>>2651401
No I just went with the OrcaSlicer preset for generic PLA, those speeds are the default.
I will try a flow calibration, and probably bump the temp up to 230c and see if that prints smooth. Maybe just roll with the bambu PLA preset; it worked fine with their own PLA and maybe it works great with 3rd party filaments too.

Thanks for the info anon

[Anonymous No.2651442]

>>2651433
lol

[Anonymous No.2651443]

>>2651442
What's funny about what I said, bub?

[Anonymous No.2651447]

>>2651366
>>2651376
in BambuStudio under "Others" change the brim type to no-brim. i got a P1P two days ago and had no idea what it was either, ruined an otherwise beautiful print trying to get that garbage off. it seems that it likes to add brims to things that absolutely do not need them at all

[Anonymous No.2651448]

Okay new issue, how the fuck do I print supports that will actually come off without destroying the print?

Print went great, no curling or anything, go to try to remove the supports and part of the print snapped because the supports seem to be connected with thicker walls than what's on the actual print wtf.

Not too worried about this particular print because the way it cracked I can just glue it back together no problem, but I need to learn how to do supports cause this ain't working.

So far I've basically just left the support settings alone on cura and turned them on or off and adjusted the density. What can I do to make supports that aren't stupidly strong and welded to the part I actually want to keep?

[Anonymous No.2651452]

>>2651303
I have the CR touch and 4.2.2 board.
I compiled my own firmware instead.
works as expected.

[Anonymous No.2651460]

RX-7 idiot again, printed off 2 benchies. First one had z-hop. Z-offset was wrong first layer was too far away
Second one I'm going to post after had no z-hop which is why I think it shifted. I wonder if I should try lubing my Z-screw or something, and what lube/application method to use

Even before I changed nozzle I had some weird wobblyness at times across the Z height of prints. But if I did a vase it was smooth and perfect

[Anonymous No.2651462]

>>2651460
Any suggestions on how to sort out this Z issue would be appreciated. Maybe I need to loosen the threaded collar that the screw goes through? I've seen some one else suggested to do that before

[Anonymous No.2651496]

>>2651447
I added the brim myself though. I'm paranoid about layer adhesion.

[Anonymous No.2651517]

>>2648673

how do I learn cad? I just installed FreeCad and opened it and then closed it

[Anonymous No.2651522]

My elegoo neptune 3 pro came in today. Picrel is my first print after autoleveling the bed I think it turned out rather nice.
Is that little string at the top normal? It was easy to remove but I'm wondering if the nozzle is moving around too fast.

[Anonymous No.2651523]

>>2651522
>My elegoo neptune 3 pro came in today

Oh no no no...

[Anonymous No.2651527]

>>2651523
What's wrong with neptune 3 pro?

[Anonymous No.2651531]

>>2651527
There's a guy in here that's trolling. Scroll up and you can find a bunch of low effort bait with zero follow up. Best to ignore posts with zero substance.

[Anonymous No.2651535]

>>2651443
>I'd get a Prusa if i could though

[Anonymous No.2651539]

>>2651527
I bought one and it was shit. Hopefully yours is good. At least the customer support was great. >>2651531 is a retarded ape.

[Anonymous No.2651540]

>>2651522
Also anon why'd you get a NP3? Isn't the 4 out yet? It has klipper integrated and a proper bed leveling system.

[Anonymous No.2651548]

>>2651539
We'll see it's been pretty smooth sailing so far. Second print looking good already, it's the tool holder that came with the sd card.
>>2651540
From what I read a lot of what the 4 comes with the 3 can be modded to have. I have a pi I'm going to put klipper on and once I know more I might try an all metal hotend mod.
I also didn't want to spend a lot, $200 was a pretty good deal for brand new.

[Anonymous No.2651550]

>>2651253
That's the other problem, yes. It seems to work fine with sheets of fibreglass or carbon fibre that are cured together using a lower temperature curing substance, but that's also because those printers keep the sheets intact and just don't have adhesive on the unwanted parts, allowing for easy work-holding before the outsides of the sheets are blasted away. I guess you could do this with steel sheets if you left tabs on each sheet that you have to remove as a post-processing step after sintering/welding/brazing. Though warping would probably still be an issue.

>>2651299
Can't you just compile a version of Marlin yourself? It's not that difficult.

>>2651355
Mount the power switch on a 30-60° angle so it doesn't have a flat top surface. That or get a round power switch. Consider an ESP8266 instead, for wifi control.

>>2651443
overpriced bedslinger

[Anonymous No.2651553]

>>2651496
what filament are you using?

[Anonymous No.2651563]

>>2651448
You want to look at support z distance. It determines how many airgap layers are in between support and your model. Or try using tree supports. They use a different interface, which has given me much better results than default in cura.

Try some different interface types. SuperSlicer has this pretty cool pattern called sawtooth, which fills the airgap with small teeth. This should help increase the supported area, while being easy to remove.

Very hard to remove supports using default settings could also hint at over extrusion

[Anonymous No.2651568]

>>2651522
Yes that string is normal. You can make it go away by adjusting the end gcode in your slicer.

Also, it looks like your autoleveling needs to be adjusted a bit down. The lines around your model are supposed to be squished together into a uniform plane, not a spiral with gaps. Picrel

[Anonymous No.2651569]

>>2651517
Solid modeling is a language of shape description. Describe some shapes, starting simple and working your way up in complexity. Pay attention to dependencies so you can model things that don't blow up at the slightest change.

[Anonymous No.2651586]

>>2651517
Just stick to it and practice. Find a tutorial that gets you to create a simple model. The first thing I ever created was a Lego block which teaches you to make squares, circles, extrude, hollow out a block, add ribs

[Anonymous No.2651591]

>>2651568
Ok so to level it I ran the autoleveler and did a paper test sliding a piece under the nozzle (which was touching). Does it need to be even closer? I'm concerned it will scratch the bed dragging across if it's any closer.
I'm trying to flash klipper now so after this I'll rerun the leveling and try again.

[Anonymous No.2651592]

>>2651563
I'll take a look at that stuff. But also, am I just retarded? Would it have been better to print that part on its face so there would've only been thin support sections under the left and right ends instead of doing that giant bridge support in the center like I did it? I'm not really sure what's best when it comes to deciding how to orient a part when considering supports and overall dimensions.

[Anonymous No.2651593]

>>2651517
Ask an autist to bite you so you can have his autism, really speeds things along.

[Anonymous No.2651594]

>>2651591
The print stuck to the bed. It's level enough. If you want to be anal about it I'd recommend a touch probe. The paper/manual adjusting every few prints gets old quickly.

[Anonymous No.2651596]

>>2651592
Nah, supports shouldn't be the deciding factor, but rather which way is stronger.
As you noticed yourself, layer lines crack easily, so you should orient your part in a way that optimizes strength along the layers.

3d prints don't deal with tension or bending along the Z axis very well, but does great in compression. If you rotate your model 90 deg, thr center will be much stronger, but the limbs will be prone to cracking, and the holes will become weak points.

[Anonymous No.2651599]

>>2651586

that's really good idea

[Anonymous No.2651601]

>>2651586
lmao, exact same fucking thing I did when I was learning Inventor back in college. Made a bunch of lego bricks and started trying to build shit with them.

[Anonymous No.2651605]

>>2651591
From what that pic shows, you're quite high up. I wager you're probably 0.3-0.4mm up as opposed to the 0.2 you should be. Just adjust in very small intervals and you should be just fine.

Tho you don't have to. But when you want to improve bottom surface quality, or when you run into problems with bad bed adhesion, that's where you should look first.

Its quite easy to adjust when running klipper and mainsail. Just baby step down by 0.01 while its printing the first layer, until you get a good result. Save the Z offset using the mainsail GUI and you're good to go

[Anonymous No.2651616]

>>2651594
Yeah I can't see myself doing the paper thing all the time. I'll check out the touch probe sounds interesting.
>>2651605
Klipper works I'm going through all the calibration and testing commands stuff now, I'll try stepping like you suggested.
How often does bed leveling need to be done? I see it constantly for 3d printing help but it seems like it should be a one and done thing. Heat warping the bed?

[Anonymous No.2651622]

>>2651616
leveling doesn't really need to be done very often at all unless you're constantly doing shit that changes the offset height of your printer which you shouldn't be.

That said, if you've got an auto-leveler probe a lot of people just set it to run before every print just to make sure it's always accurate because it's pretty quick so why the fuck not.

[Anonymous No.2651762]

>>2651553
The cursed esun matte pla.

>>2651550
>Mount the power switch on a 30-60° angle so it doesn't have a flat top surface. That or get a round power switch

I didn't quite get the 30-60 angle part, wouldn't that look ugly? Round switch would have been better probably but I only have a regular rectangular one on me right now. I programmed a ESP8266 for my GBS-C, but I feel like it's too autistic for just a lantern.

[Anonymous No.2651763]

>>2651762
>wouldn't that look ugly?
Yes. If the switch has enough of a flange, you may be able to taper the top as a triangle sufficiently to prevent spaghetti. Don't think arc overhangs will work here. You could also leave a larger cutout that gets filled with a seperate piece printed in another orientation.
>but I feel like it's too autistic for just a lantern
What about an IR receiver?

[Anonymous No.2651767]

>>2651763
>What about an IR receiver?

That's cool, but I think I'll just stick to a regularass power switch and will power it with a regularass dc brick. I was gonna do less LEDs and power via USB, but maybe it's not worth it.

[Anonymous No.2651769]

It's shaping up nicely.

[Anonymous No.2651777]

>>2651762
Make the hole for the switch round then separately print an adapter piece for the square switch vertically and glue it in.

[Anonymous No.2651779]

>>2651777
Will hot glue fuck up a PLA print by the way or is not not hot enough?

[Anonymous No.2651781]

>>2651779
The tip of the glue gun definitely gets hot enough to melt the PLA, but I think you're fine with the glue if you're careful applying it.

[Anonymous No.2651803]

>>2651462
I loosened the screws on the brass insert and I can't see much difference. Fuck when I first got this thing I could print stuff with no z-hop and nothing dragged. I can at least get stuff out with some z-hop
What lube should I get for the Z-screw? I have some random grease somewhere but I'm unsure if it would be suitable. Its the only other thing I can think of doing. Just taking it out, cleaning and lubing it and putting the X gantry back on hoping it fixes this

[Anonymous No.2651809]

>>2651803
I've been looking into this too as mine is squeaking pretty bad when it's like an inch up from the first layer, seen a lot of people recommend white lithium grease

[Anonymous No.2651822]

>>2651809
I'll have to buy some
I'm wondering if its also shit filament though, I just noticed this hook I made a few weeks ago is straight other than the elephants foot fuckup. Can't hurt to lube the thing anyway

[Anonymous No.2651882]

What are the pros/cons for the SV06 versus the Neptune 3 Pro if both are about the same price?
Both show up in the OP recommendations but I'm trying to decide between them.

[Anonymous No.2651895]

>>2651882
Just save up and get a P1S or a Prusa.

[Anonymous No.2651898]

>>2651605
>>2651616
So it took a few tries but I managed to get it tuned decently well. I'm printing a square tower at .3mm and it's almost perfect, just had some first layer issues on one side of the box. It didn't stick well to the bed, the other sides did fine.
I see an option to change the temp for first layer, should it be hotter than the rest of the print? I have it set to 180C for PLA.

[Anonymous No.2651900]

I literally cannot believe I have to print my own joining dowels because the ones I bought at the store are wack. Fuck Bauhaus.

[Anonymous No.2651902]

>>2651882
No clue about the Elegoo but the SV06 is pretty much a good MK3S clone except for the retarded volcano-style-but-not-really-volcano nozzle. You can also consider a MK3S(+) clone for about the same price
>>2651895
>bro just spend 2-3x the amount you initially wanted to

[Anonymous No.2651907]

>>2651898
For PLA I run the first layer at the same temp as the print, 200c with the bed at 50-55c. If you're having trouble with the print sticking during the first layer it's probably a nozzle distance or level issue. If you're having trouble with the part sticking after 2 to 4 layers and you're running a really hot bed temp it's probably coming free when the part cooling fan comes online and cools/shrinks the first layer.

[Anonymous No.2651908]

Is 225c too hot for PLA+? It's monoprice, which I believe is just rebranded. I did an orcaslicer temp tower test and 230c and 225c had the least stringing and intact cone.

[Anonymous No.2651909]

>>2651902
>bro just spend 2-3x the amount you initially wanted to

Yes and get something that works and works well. Instead of something that you'd have to work on.

[Anonymous No.2651911]

>>2651908
Have you checked actual heat block temp with a thermometer?

>>2651909
Anon over here must be rocking a top of the line Ultimaker or Lulzbot.

[Anonymous No.2651921]

>>2651276
>>2651300 checked
>>2651302
>>2651303
>>2651550

Thanks for all the (you)s this board was super helpful
the problem turned out to be that i did not add the g29 BL touch to the g code

[Anonymous No.2651924]

>>2651921
Glad you figured it out lmao

[Anonymous No.2651926]

>>2651907
I think I know what the problem is, the front left corner of the box is lifting off the bed, the front side has the adhesion issue. I'm almost positive it's from the fan I had running behind me, that corner is basically pointing right at it.
Picrel shows the lifting and poor adhesion. The only other problem is the back right corner has some weird layering, like there's a bump near the bottom that pushed everything up 1mm. Only the corner, the walls are good.

[Anonymous No.2651948]

Anon with the NP3. A month ago I did the same thing. Bought the NP3 and a board for Klipper. Set it all up. Did all the calibrations. Multiple times. Never got to actual printing. First layer adhesion was never even. Couldn't even use 60% of the bed volume to print. Hopefully yours is better, but me I got a refund. X axis tilt issues and the bed design put me off. That's why with the NP4 they changed the bed. Customer support was great at least.

[Anonymous No.2651957]

>>2651948
Damn I guess I should've asked here before pulling the trigger on buying one myself. I don't expect really good prints from this thing at only $200, I just wanted as low entry cost as possible and jumped on the sale when I saw it.
If I end up having the same problems as you I'll return it for an NP4 and pay the extra $100. I wasn't sure I would like 3d printing given how many issues and tuning processes I see online but the knowing what I know now I wouldn't mind putting in more money.
The waste filament is a shame though, idk what I'll do with the calibration box, maybe make a bottom and store batteries or something.

[Anonymous No.2651958]

>>2651957
It should take you less than 500g of filament on a working printer to calibrate everything. That's 10 bucks. Asking here people would have shilled it to you though. That's what they did to me.

[Anonymous No.2651970]

>>2651958
500g for calibration?! That's insane. I need like 3 or 4 calibration cubes tops.

[Anonymous No.2652001]

>>2651970
Calibration doesn't only include cubes and I'm also giving a big headroom because it's not out of the question to have to do each one 10 times.

[Anonymous No.2652017]

>>2649761
I finally fucking managed to fix this.

Oh fuck yeah, I’m so happy, I managed to fix it!

The setting “Extra Length on Restart” completely closes the gap! Its a bit finicky on faster speeds (25mm/s +) but at about 20mm/s its pretty close to perfect!

I'm going to bed friends. Appreciate the help <3

[Anonymous No.2652033]

>>2650627
>the thrust bearings arrived
ooh nice

[Anonymous No.2652090]

>>2651908
225 is fine. I have a brand of PLA I have to run at 260 to have the best result

[Anonymous No.2652092]

>>2652017
Nice, gj anon

[Anonymous No.2652192]

howdy
can anyone advise me on the printing of throughholes ?
i consistently get like 20% underextrusion in the exterior walls of my print when printing throughholes in upright position but this only starts at layer 2 first layer is always nice

material is petg every thing else is good temp okay flow esteps heights widths retraction priming etc
only when printing the little circles that go around the hole it starts to loose

tried to find a setting but the only one i could get is wall printing speed and nothing in perticular regarding circular holes/walls
i can imagine the circular shape in itself causes issues with the wall printing speed setting resulting in too high of a peripheral speed so that the extrusion amount doesnt match the motion anymore and therefor causes underextrusion...
please help ? '___'

[Anonymous No.2652197]

>>2649723
could be a few settings

make a few one layer high test prints to adjust
adjust line width/seperation until you see a smooth flat top and no 'extra material being disturbed' (indicate lines overlapping too much) and obviously the opposite extreme of having gaps between the lines
mponitor by shining at the printed surface from an angle with a flashlight and using a sharp eye

another setting could be set layer height vs actual distance of nozzle to printing surface (if this is the first layer in your pic)
i dont print on these coarse plates ( i only print on glass ) so i cannot really judge what you are displaying in that pic but it loos to my eye like a mix of material not sticking to surface, and nozzle / surface gap too small

everytime the nozzle moves along a previously printed line it heats up the existing line and draws these strings
that can also happen if you are printing too slow and your flow rate doesnt match the low speed indicating slight overextrusion
so if your layer adhesion is cool you could tweak the speed up a little and see if the symptoms disappear

[Anonymous No.2652206]

working on a new scale model
here is the mock up

[Anonymous No.2652226]

I can't decide if I should get the enclosure kit for my P1P if I'm printing indoors and in my own room.

[Anonymous No.2652230]

>>2651882
get an ender 6 from ebay

[Anonymous No.2652252]

>>2652226
that celearly depends on the location but dont underestimate long term effects that the ingredients of the plastics can have on your metabolism

the moment the molten plastic comes out of the nozzle it aerosolizes
the spread is visible on printers that are in use over long durations
so its not 100% safe
especially if you are eating or drinking next to the printer which you should avoid as much as possible
with good enough ventilation having the printer in the other corner of your bedroom shoould not pose too much of a risk but you are exposed

the only reasonable solution to minimize exposure is to build or get an enclosure with doors that are sealed airtight
similiar to a chemical storageward
many chemicals used in these plastics act as hormone disruptors so you should always act with caution
it is generally wise to bake fresh prints and to rinse afterwards so that any loose particles in which the print is 100% coated are residually molten down and fuse with the solidified object
dont cry whan your dick shrinks or your tits grow because you used filament of questionable sources

[Anonymous No.2652253]

I'm about to use up my first filament roll, what calibration stuff do I need to print with a new one from the same manufacturer?

[Anonymous No.2652257]

>>2652252
Does that apply to PLA and PETG too? When you say ventilation, do you mean actual ventilation using a duct that leads to the outside, or ventilation as in the bitchass fans + filter the P1S enclosure upgrade comes with?

[Anonymous No.2652259]

>>2652257
PLA is the least worst, you really want it to be in another room when printing or at least in a very well ventilated room. As in fresh air cycling through

[Anonymous No.2652261]

>>2652253
I like printing a temperature and retraction tower for every new kind of filament. If it's the exact same type of filament from the same manufacturer don't waste your time/money on printing tests unless the company has a bad reputation.

[Anonymous No.2652273]

>>2652259
I'm currently eating hot dogs while printing a PLA arduino case 3 meters behind me...

[Anonymous No.2652403]

>>2652252
>the moment the molten plastic comes out of the nozzle it aerosolizes
That's why my prints are always coming out blank.... The plastic is vaporizing at the nozzle. (love me some good old fashioned fear mongering)

[Anonymous No.2652406]

>>2652273
The hotdogs are way worse than whatever xenoestrogens that guy is worried about.

[Anonymous No.2652409]

Can't wait for big injection-molding to go after 3d printers when they become normy territory. Imagine the hit pieces the dumbass masses will eat up about microplastics while drinking their $6 water out of a plastic bottles.

[Anonymous No.2652415]

>>2652409
3D printing is never going to replace injection molding, they're for completely different use cases. It will never be more economical to 3D print objects at mass production scale than to just create molds and go to town cranking them out, and nobody is using injection molding for single part prototyping.

[Anonymous No.2652432]

>>2652415
If that's so then why is it I can download a model of replacement feet for my box fan and print them for less then it'd cost me to buy replacements on amazon? You're obviously not taking everything into account.

[Anonymous No.2652438]

>>2652432
replacement box fan feet are not a large enough market for anyone to give a fuck about the small percentage of people willing to go through the hassle of getting into 3D printing, learning how to properly use their machine, finding and downloading the files, and printing up replacements to avoid spending a couple bucks on replacements from amazon. The box fan manufacturers are still buying huge bulk orders of injection molded feet and that's never going to change.

[Anonymous No.2652440]

>>2652432
>You're obviously not taking everything into account.
The effort of shipping 1/2-cent-to-manufacture parts thousands of miles after being stored in a warehouse for years?

[Anonymous No.2652444]

>>2652438
>>2652440
So not only can 3d printers economically compete with injection molding we agree that in some situations they win. Neat.

[Anonymous No.2652445]

>>2652432
Individual consumers are not even close to being a significant percentage of the global market for injection molded plastic goods. Chinese manufacturers don't give a shit about your 3D printer (except to sell you parts for it).

[Anonymous No.2652447]

>>2652444

[Anonymous No.2652449]

>>2652445
>Individual consumers are not even close to being a significant percentage of the global market
That's kind of why I qualified my statement with, "when they become normy territory."

>>2652447
lol

[Anonymous No.2652450]

>>2652449
>"when they become normy territory."
Normies are not replacing mass manufacturing, ever. Until we have fucking Star Trek replicators, it's completely irrelevant. They're different markets you aspie.

[Anonymous No.2652456]

>>2652450
You don't think normies would press a button on a magic box and print a (replacement) part for less money than it'd cost to ship that part from China as being viable? Okay.

[Anonymous No.2652470]

>>2652456
I'm saying those normies printing pieces for whatever they want to do with them is not the market that china gives a fuck about you illiterate retard.

[Anonymous No.2652474]

>>2652470
And I'm saying mass injection molding only makes economical sense when transporting those parts from the factory is cheaper than printing at home.

Also, what's up with the insult at the end of every one of your replies? Is it some kind of coping mechanism or are you unable to function without that dopamine hit of moral superiority or maybe it is it just part of your prompts?

[Anonymous No.2652475]

>>2652474
The parts are not being sold directly you massive fucking retard, they are being sold to manufacturers who use them in their manufactured goods. Holy shit, how are you this stupid? We are talking about different groups of consumers.

[Anonymous No.2652479]

>>2652475
>We are talking about different groups of consumers.
If you're not talking about the same thing as I am they why did you even reply to me to begin with?!

Also, props on the insult sandwich. I like that you're switching things up after being called out on it.

[Anonymous No.2652480]

>>2652479
You having way too much fun with that anon.

[Anonymous No.2652481]

>>2652479
>being this dumb on purpose

[Anonymous No.2652484]

>>2652480
I'm bored waiting for a print to finish and this guy is entertaining.

>>2652481
>Greentext for no reason
So no substance this time, just an insult? That mean you're done?

[Anonymous No.2652495]

>>2652444
You mean things like prototyping or custom parts, or situations where the benefits of local production counter the cheaper per-unit price of injection molding? That's been common knowledge for a long time. 3D printing is still not competitive for mass manufacturing of standardized parts, and it's not likely to ever be.

[Anonymous No.2652502]

>>2652495
No he's gonna corner the mass-produced 3D printed dildo market, you watch.

[Anonymous No.2652518]

>>2652495
>You mean things like prototyping or custom parts, or situations where the benefits of local production counter the cheaper per-unit price of injection molding?

Mostly the later as the first two are given. When I can print something for cheaper than I can buy it then, in that specific situation, injection molding has lost it's economical advantage. I believe that situation is going to become more common as shipping and fuel costs go up.

>>2652502
Are you not willing to directly engage me anymore?

[Anonymous No.2652551]

>>2650519
>

[Anonymous No.2652558]

>>2652551
Isn't that more to do with flow rate?

[Anonymous No.2652563]

>>2652558
Mainly pressure advance, but changing speed and temp can impact this too.

[Anonymous No.2652570]

>>2652563
Well pressure advance can't be set any better than this.

[Anonymous No.2652571]

>print doesnt stick
>tighten Z-offset
>elephants foot
>loosen Z-offset
>print doesnt stick
>put it on raft
>either peels off by just looking at it or is fused together better than the actual layers
you just cant win no matter what

[Anonymous No.2652573]

>>2652571
NP3?

[Anonymous No.2652578]

>>2652573
pardon?

[Anonymous No.2652581]

>>2652578
Neptune 3 Pro?

[Anonymous No.2652584]

>>2652581
ah, no. standard ender 3

[Anonymous No.2652600]

I assume, that when i use a Infll Structure that i still need to drill holes into it, to cure the inside, right?

[Anonymous No.2652605]

>>2652600
>bulbasaur

[Anonymous No.2652609]

>>2652605
eh, i thought a small little gift for my niece.She likes plants and pokemon. sadly not a charmander tho

[Anonymous No.2652653]

>>2650838
Possibly infill speed too high, so it can't melt the filament fast enough and it underextrudes. Supports and infill are commonly set to print faster. If you use Prusaslicer or forks, set volumetric flow to about 6.5mm^3 or so for the stock Creality hotend, or increase temps.

[Anonymous No.2652655]

>>2651276
It looked like you were printing with a large 1mm or so nozzle, yes? Thick lines hold vastly higher amounts of heat, you better have really, really good cooling on your hotend and not some low spec single 4010 blower fan. I put 2 5015 fans on my E5+ for this reason. The bulge at the bottom looks like the weight of the layers squishes down on it. Then, once it moves into the infill zone higher up, it stops squishing and maybe even shrinks a bit either from different cooling or the layers are unintentionally taller, and therefore thinner sideways because the lower layers have sunk down and out. Then, since the top layers print slower and are solid, they bulge a bit.
In short, cooling fans at 100% and slow way down if that doesnt help. Print at the lowest temp you can as well, so there is less heat mass in the filament to cool.

[Anonymous No.2652660]

>>2652655
I went from a 0.4 to a 0.6. The default settings were 100% fan after the first layer. I'll have to fiddle with it and see what I can do
Would it be stupid to put a fan on the printer and see if that changes anything? I'm not really sure how to go about upgrading the cooling as I have no experience with fucking about with wires to solder in new fans etc

[Anonymous No.2652677]

>>2652660
A .6 nozzle shouldnt be too much hotter than a .4 nozzle. What print speeds are you at? A fan would help, but also make the chances of the print warping off the plate higher.

[Anonymous No.2652682]

>>2652677
I didn't get the weird top overhand when I printed the rx-7 logo at .44 layers but I do at .2. The pic I posted with the blobby top layer was the 0.44
Maybe this filament is just balls too, or my z-screw needs lubing as its been about 7 months since I got the printer. I don't want to open any of the new filament I got until I feel its sorted but I may have too

[Anonymous No.2652687]

>>2652571
Give your bed a good clean with warm soapy water, maybe use glue stick as an adhesion aid. Consider a heated bed or PEI bed upgrade.

[Anonymous No.2652713]

>>2652682
Only other thing I could think of is some strange preset either in slicer or printer firmware that enforces some kind of minimum extrusion / max layer height. I've replaced my e5's board with a m8p and switched to klipper so I really can't say.

[Anonymous No.2652856]

>>2652206
that's delightfully charming

[Anonymous No.2652889]

>>2652653
my infill speed is at 60mm/s, which is lower than my perimeters at 80mm/s.
im not sure but i cant find "volumetric flow" specifically in the prusaslicer settings. i found "max volumetric speed" under "print speed override". is that the right one?

[Anonymous No.2652892]

>>2652889
That's extremely fast.

[Anonymous No.2652893]

>>2652892
the stock infill speed for the ender 3 preset in prusa slicer is 80mm/s

[Anonymous No.2652896]

Fuck my life bro.

[Anonymous No.2652897]

>>2652600
What can be the reason? Weak supports?

[Anonymous No.2652907]

>>2652687
i have a heated glass bed and i occasionally put some spray glue down. not every print but every 10 or so to prevent buildup. im also just printing PLA

[Anonymous No.2652920]

>>2652907
Is the print coming off during layer 1, between layer 2 to 6, or after 6?

If it's during layer 1 then it's a z offset issue. PLA will stick to glass beds without aids. Between 2 to 6 then it's a bed temp/part cooler issue. The part cooling fan is cooling layer 1 too much/fast causing it to shrink and detach from the bed. I've found bed temps over ~55c cause enough shrinkage when cooled to break adhesion. After 6 it's nozzle collisions/ambient cooling/bed temp issue. Could be a bed slinger w/o enclosure issue or your house has A/C or something else is causing ambient air temps to dip while printing or there's a fan blowing air in the room etc etc.

[Anonymous No.2652924]

its so hilarious you people can somehow work 3d modeling but nobody wants to spend 10 minutes to make a collage

the kicker is not a single anon in these threads has the balls to just make a boring OP image kek

[Anonymous No.2652926]

>>2652920
its not coming off entirely, but even on a small calibration cube the corners are lifthing up slightly.

[Anonymous No.2652927]

>>2652924
>spend 10 minutes

Anon uses a script to make it. Probably takes him 5 seconds. I could do it manually in 3 minutes.

[Anonymous No.2652952]

>>2652889
Odd, typically you would do the outer walls slower to keep a better surface quality and you don't care about slight underextrusion on infill.
>>2652892
Not really, on my e5+ with the stock extruder my speed profile runs PLA at 260C at 90mm/s, with the outer walls at half speed. That puts the max volumetric flow at around 8, a bit high, but not for any visible parts. With a .6 nozzle, some of the orange lines turn red, but the max flow rate doesn't seem to change. Sometime later I'm planning to get a Rapido 2 so I can put my max speeds at 300mm/s or something dumb like that to match my good accels, while also using the 1mm nozzle because 60mm3/s max flow rate lol

[Anonymous No.2652955]

>>2652926
Bed temp? Room temp? Enclosure?

[Anonymous No.2652956]

>>2652927
>a buhh buhh buhh buhh buhh bahhh
okay its been a lot more than 3 minutes, wheres your new OP?

[Anonymous No.2652957]

>>2652956
I didn't say I'll make one.

[Anonymous No.2652961]

>>2652955
60
varies, anywhere between 24 to 30
none

[Anonymous No.2652963]

>>2652961
Try 50c.

[Anonymous No.2652994]

New Bread, nerds:
>2652992
>>2652992
>>>2652992
>2652992
>>2652992
>>>2652992
>2652992
>>2652992
>>>2652992

[Anonymous No.2653070]

>>2652889
>i found "max volumetric speed" under "print speed override". is that the right one?
Yes. That sets a limit on speed such that the printer won't try to extrude faster than that. It's in filament settings rather than print settings because melt capacity is something that varies by filament.

[Anonymous No.2653071]

>>2652893
It's fast for perimeters, not for infill. That's more of a rough draft setting than a production or model setting.