/3dpg/ - Small Business Edition

[Anonymous No.2628389]

Last Thread: >>2623019

All the outdated info you don't need about /3Dpg/-printing (Last updated 911 days ago): https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>Calibrate your printer.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [32/72/5 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, these are just popular and available options, don't buy a $1000 bedslinger:
Up to 200 USD: Kingroon KP3S, Sovol SV01, Voxelab Aquila X2, Anycubic Kobra Neo, ELEGOO Neptune 2S, Malyan M300/Monoprice Mini Delta
Up to 300 USD: Kingroon KP3S Pro/Pro S1, Sovol SV06, Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo, Elegoo Neptune 3
Up to 400 USD: Creality Ender 3 S1, Sovol SV01 Pro, Artillery Sidewinder SW-X2
Up to 500 USD: Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro, Prusa MINI+, FLSUN Super Racer
Up to 500 USD Large-Format: Anycubic Kobra Max, Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
Up to 800 USD: Bambu Lab P1P, Prusa MK4 kit
Over 1000 USD: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon, Ultimaker, Lulzbot, Raise3D
DIY: Voron, Rat Rig, Ultimaker/2/3, https://reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: Creality HALOT-ONE/LD-002H, Anycubic Photon Mono/X/4K, Elegoo Mars 3/Saturn 2, Formlabs Form 3/3L

>Where can I get things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://printables.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://cults3d.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCAD
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for P1P/X1 owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

[Anonymous No.2628393]

>print a case
>it comes out all pimply
I need to stop printing shit that needs insane retractions.

[Anonymous No.2628425]

>>2628389
WebM related. How do I unfuck this? I wanted to print the parts for the Belted Z Mod for the Ender 3 when I realized WHY my Z Axis was all over the place.

[Anonymous No.2628426]

I'm sitting here waiting for my N3P and my bigtreetech board for Klipper.

[Anonymous No.2628433]

>>2628425
Tighten down your screws. I'm guessing one of your vertical beams is loose

[Anonymous No.2628445]

>>2628425
Tighten the wheels.

[Anonymous No.2628454]

>>2628425
how did you figure out how to install a new hot end yet dont even know what a concentric nut is?.....

[Anonymous No.2628463]

>>2628433
>>2628445
>>2628454

You are all are wrong, get your shit together.

>>2628425
Anon, pic related these are more than likely the cause for your gantry moving like that. If they're loose you will need to take the gantry all the way off to tighten them. On my ender 3 I swapped those with hex heads and bought a super thin wrench in case they came loose again.

[Anonymous No.2628465]

>>2628463

[Anonymous No.2628469]

>>2628465
Don't get mad at me for your stupidity. I'm surprised no one suggested switching to a microswiss to solve anons problem.

[Anonymous No.2628475]

>>2628465
Nvm anon I could be retarded, the other end of the gantry isn't moving that much. So my suggestion is shit.

[Anonymous No.2628502]

>>2628425
I wonder what would happen if you turned the nut that's behind the inner wheel ... or never bother to look and get a dual Z axis kit instead

[Anonymous No.2628503]

Anyone here have low space and keep your printer in the same room as your PC?
Got an Ender 3 Neo recently and feel irritation in my throat when I have a long PLA print running 3 meters away even though the room is decently ventilated.
Should I use an enclosure? Or is that pointless and I should just move it to another room?

[Anonymous No.2628509]

>>2628503
If you feel irritation in your throat when printing PLA, it's because you're a paranoid schizophrenic.

It's not the PLA.

[Anonymous No.2628514]

>>2628503 You live in a basement or what? I print abs in an enclosure but without any extra filters or ventilation. Smell is barely noticeable when opening the lid.
But not all filaments are equal. Some chink abs do smell like chemical weapon.

[Anonymous No.2628515]

>>2628503
You'd need something to suck the air out of the enclosure or it will get too hot. Best moving it to another room

[Anonymous No.2628527]

>>2628514
>Smell is barely noticeable when opening the lid.
I don't notice any smell, I don't think it's the fumes.
What I do notice is small strings of PLA all over the room. I think there's some microstringing going on where the strings are so small and fragile that the nozzle cooling fan is enough to blow them away and they basically fill the room with plastic dust in the air.
>>2628515
>Best moving it to another room
k

[Anonymous No.2628534]

>>2628425
is a belted z even worth doing? or should i just get a dual z

[Anonymous No.2628537]

>>2628463
Wrong. The blue shit on both sides of the gantry is what you need to tighten/loosen until you can just barely spin the wheels with your finger.

[Anonymous No.2628538]

hmm, my recommendations after shopping for resin are breast tape, but also breast tape for transitioning and edible chalk

[Anonymous No.2628540]

>>2628534 Get a decent printer with straight z lead screws.

[Anonymous No.2628541]

>>2628538
time to start tucking anon

[Anonymous No.2628543]

>>2628534
Are you planning to change the controller board to independently control each z screw?

If you say no, go belted z, I have been using it for a year and a few months now, and happy with it.

>>2628537
The eccentric nut needs to be tighten, that gantry is moving way too much just for the eccentric nut alone to be loose, and that's why I told anon to check the bolts I circled. Because who checks those? They're hidden away "out of sight out of mind" type shit.

[Anonymous No.2628554]

It just works
somehow

[Anonymous No.2628558]

>>2628541
>tfw when 3d printing turned me into a man

[Anonymous No.2628560]

>>2628558
>You wouldn't download a penis.

[Anonymous No.2628581]

>>2628207
>You'll be playing with hot sulfuric acid, formic acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrofluoric acid, nitric acid, phosphoric acid, acetic acid, phenols, DCM/formic acid mixes...

sounds like bullshit ti me

[Anonymous No.2628584]

Someone post a cool 3dpd youtube video for me to watch. I can't find any good ones.

[Anonymous No.2628602]

>>2628581
That's the kind of shit people use for Nylon.
Fun, right?

[Anonymous No.2628625]

Is there a site for 3d model piracy? There's some cool shit on cults3d but a lot of it is paid.

[Anonymous No.2628626]

PEI is magic. No longer do I have to brim every single thing that I print. Both PLA and PEtG print like a dream

[Anonymous No.2628635]

>PLA+ is good enough for a lower receiver
I'm not that knowledgeable about materials, but is carbon fiber overkill for that application? It's almost officially summer and I don't need anything deforming in the heat.

[Anonymous No.2628640]

>>2628635 Use Polypropylene with 20-30% glass fiber. It is strong, rigid and not brittle, good layer adhesion, has minimal warping, no heated chamber is needed, immune to moisture, rated for 80C.
It is the best stuff printable on a budget printers with simple nozzle (hardened steel 0.5mm) and bed upgrade.
Only tricky part is bed adhesion. You could use really hot 130C glass, 3mm FR4 or thin FR4 glued to glass, or PP tape with unheated bed for small parts.
Also dont forget to paint it if you gonna touch it a lot.

[Anonymous No.2628678]

What do you guys do when you need to print parts that fit together?
How do you handle tolerances?
I use Fusion 360 if it matters.
And for that matter, what calibration prints do you run when using a new brand of plastic?
I hear OrcaSlicer has a few built in now.

[Anonymous No.2628696]

>>2628502
>never bother to look and get a dual Z axis kit instead

Belted z is better, doing dual z you either buy a controller board that can control each z screw independently or run a sync belt.

Belted Z the gantry stays the same after setup unless your belt some how jumps the teeth which it wont if you're not retarded.

Dual z
>hoping you dont get z bind
>gantry goes out of alignment when the motors are disabled.
>sync belt to reolve those issues
>literally adding a bandaid to a bandaid
>not a silver bullet to fixing problems
>reliability barely goes up

>belted z
>reuse existing parts
>just v wheels on z or linear rails
>costs 40 dollars USD + filament
>isn't going to be silver bullet to fix
>reliability goes up a shit ton.

[Anonymous No.2628704]

>>2628696
I want to do a belted z now but id have to make my lack tower extra extra tall now

[Anonymous No.2628705]

>>2628704
there is a "ultra low" version to accommodate lack enclosure, idk the height difference between the two is, you may have to still raise it, but not by much.

[Anonymous No.2628718]

>>2628433 Vertical Beams are thight
>>2628445
>>2628454 I'm a high functioning Autist, I'm borderline retarded but I can follow instructions like no other
I went from fingertight going over to almost stripping the bolts and shearing off the heads.
Eccentric nuts are all the way to "tight"
>>2628463
I'll take a look when I'm home, didn't even know that those existed
>>2628502
You mean the eccentric nuts? See above. Belted Z was planned months ago, way before this happened to overcome z-banding
>>2628534
Dual Z Kit:
>50€ on Amazon
>No belt or pulleys to synchronize motors
>Stock 4.2.7. Board so no Z Tilting
>Every Anon here told me to not do it
Belted Z Kit:
>30€ on AliExpress
>Reuse almost everything
>Anons here told me to do it
>It even sucks your dick

[Anonymous No.2628748]

>>2628718
oh shit, didnt realize there was an actual kit, now il do it, what do I print it out of? I only ever use PLA+

[Anonymous No.2628762]

>>2628748
PETG / ABS / ASA

I printed mine in ABS, PETG is fine too. Another option you can join the belted z discord and see how much it would be to have them printed in ABS.

[Anonymous No.2628763]

ferrules in, hope i didnt some how make a grenade

[Anonymous No.2628805]

>>2628763
Did you cut of the tinned wires and strip some insulation off

[Anonymous No.2628806]

>>2628805
yes, im not that smooth brained

[Anonymous No.2628815]

>have bowden 3d printer
>left tpu print running for half an hour
never again

[Anonymous No.2628842]

Can you 3d print glock switches on these things

[Anonymous No.2628844]

>>2628842
Turn yourself in, Tyrone.

[Anonymous No.2628853]

Is Bambu X1 really that good? Like is it actually fairly foolproof?

[Anonymous No.2628858]

>>2628815
I'd go mad without reliable TPU printing. It's my favorite filament. Direct drive for life!

[Anonymous No.2628861]

>>2628858
Yeah I've heard it's really useful. But maybe this TPU is kinda shitty or something, I expected it to be grippier but it turns out elastic bands are much better for this use case.

My co-worker has a bunch of the same 250g nobrand pink TPU rolls, and plans on making a filament extruder so he can fuse them together to print a giant benchy.

[Anonymous No.2628862]

>>2628861
I like it because it can have the shit beat out of it and it'll typically still do the thing it was made for. Have only seen two TPU parts fail under stress, and one was my fault.

[Anonymous No.2628867]

I love the accuracy of SLA. Never ever got this much joy from FDM. More detailed, you can get away with crazy thin geometry, printing with clear resin makes clear parts. Just brittle that's all.

[Anonymous No.2628868]

are there any slicers with optical anti-aliasing?

[Anonymous No.2628875]

How bad is the overadhesion with PETG?
I hear people say you gotta apply gluestick to the stock Ender 3 plate to avoid having chunks ripped out on print removal. Is this also a problem with the flexible magnetic plate?

[Anonymous No.2628878]

>>2628861
>But maybe this TPU is kinda shitty or something, I expected it to be grippier but it turns out elastic bands are much better for this use case.

Dont blame TPU for this, you dont have a setup to print tpu, you try to push tpu its going to bend unles you constrain it. Your picture is the most common result when you use a extruder that has too much of a gap between the gears and ptfe tube. Microswiss can't even print tpu, and yet everyone is recommending that piece of shit, dumbasses parroting off of each other.

[Anonymous No.2628889]

>>2628875
I fucked up the PEI surface of my magnetic plate with PETG.

I had the best results with a mirror (which is also very cheap so even if you fuck up it's not a big deal) + a bit of hair spray.

[Anonymous No.2628892]

>>2628889
Did you try using the non-PEI side of the plate?

[Anonymous No.2628909]

>>2628581
>plastic known for its chemical resistance
>sounds like bullshit that you have to use even nastier, stronger chemicals to dissolve it

[Anonymous No.2628910]

>>2628678
>What do you guys do when you need to print parts that fit together?
>How do you handle tolerances?
Print test parts. You can try generic ones, or even JUST print the mating features (e.g. pegs and and holes) in the final orientation to see how much clearance/interference the parts will need to fit the way you want them to.

[Anonymous No.2628913]

>>2628892
The magnetic side? No.

[Anonymous No.2628929]

>>2628913
The magnetic side is glued to the printer. I meant just flip the detachable plate over because for most of them the PEI coating is only on one side.

[Anonymous No.2628936]

>>2628929
Both the adhesive part and the detachable part have a magnetic side, just different poles.
I've never tried printing on either of them.

[Anonymous No.2628938]

>>2628936
I seriously doubt that. The detachable will be attracted to a magnet on either side because it's steel.

[Anonymous No.2628940]

>>2628938
Maybe you have a different one.
But with mine, the detachable part sticks to metal. It's clearly magnetic.

[Anonymous No.2629004]

finished printing my first order, all 20 fit perfectly in a box from filament

[Anonymous No.2629006]

>>2629004
That's excellent anon, good work.

[tator tot No.2629009]

>>2628389
https://discord.com/invite/N37M9Ny
Artificial Academy 2 General /aa2g/ #1282
Sad Jack Edition

Welcome, this general is for the discussion of ILLUSION's Artificial Academy 2.

COPY ERROR MESSAGES WITH CTRL+C, PASTE THEM WITH CTRL+V INTO GOOGLE TRANSLATE. JUST CLICK THE WINDOW AND PRESS CTRL + C, IT WORKS.

>Downloads:
/aa2g/ Pre-Installed Game, AA2Mini: https://tsukiyo.me/AAA/AA2MiniPPX.xml
AAUnlimited updates: https://github.com/aa2g/AA2Unlimited/releases
Anon's Modded Pre-Install: https://pastebin.com/42JS3q6E

>Information:
AA2Mini Install Guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vS8Ap6CrmSNXRsKG9jsIMqHYuHM3Cfs5qE5nX6iIgfzLlcWnmiwzmOrp27ytEMX03lFNRR7U5UXJalA/pub
General FAQ:
https://web.archive.org/web/20200216045726/https://pastebin.com/bhrA6iGx
AAU Guide and Resources (Modules, Tans, Props, Poses, and More):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17qb1X0oOdMKU4OIDp8AfFdLtl5y_4jeOOQfPQ2F-PKQ/edit#gid=0

>Character Cards [Database], now with a list of every NonOC in the megas:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1niC6g-Xd2a2yaY98NBFdAXnURi4ly2-lKty69rkQbJ0/edit#gid=2085826690
https://db.bepis.moe/aa2/

>Mods & More:
Mods for AAU/AA2Mini (ppx format, the mediafire has everything):
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/vwrmdohus4vhh/Mods
/aa2g/ Modding Reference Guide (Slot lists for Hair/Clothes/Faces, List Guides, and More):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gwmoVpKuSuF0PtEPLEB17eK_dexPaKU106ShZEpBLhg/edit#gid=1751233129
Booru: https://aau.booru.org

>HELP! I have a Nvidia card and my game crashes on startup!
Try the dgVoodoo option in the new win10fix settings.
Alternative: Update your AAU and see if it happens again. If so, disable win10fix, enable wined3d and software vertex processing.
>HELP! Required Windows 11 update broke things!
winkey+R -> ms-settings:developers -> Terminal=Windows Console Host

Discord:
https://discord.com/invite/N37M9Ny

[Anonymous No.2629011]

>>2629009
Shit job threadbot.

[Anonymous No.2629017]

>>2628910
I guess we're in the stone age eh

[Anonymous No.2629022]

>>2629017
You gotta know what kind of tolerance you can achieve, and design to that tolerance.
If you don't know what kind of tolerance you can reliably achieve, you can test.
What about this needs any explanation at all? Fucking invalids

[Anonymous No.2629028]

->>2628867
Idk man
0.2mm nozzles are like magic

[Anonymous No.2629031]

>>2629022
I was expecting something better than selecting a bunch of faces and offsetting them
maybe the slicer could be a bit more aware of external lines and prioritize dimensionality instead of shidding out plastic approximately in the neighborhood of where you expect it

[Anonymous No.2629037]

>>2629031
You can fine-tune tolerances in the slicer.
Slicers do prioritize external perimeters.
If you're having a specific issue, ask about it, but right now you're just complaining about things that aren't real.

Not the fault of the hammer when you miss a nail.

[Anonymous No.2629058]

Finally finished my Koss KSC75 MMCX mod.
was a little tricky but im very happy with the results. had to tweak and modify the original STL i found online quite a bit to get it to look/fit well

[Anonymous No.2629071]

>>2629058
Very cool, nice work.

[Anonymous No.2629076]

quick question if i have bowden extruder and the filament broke in the middle can i just push new fillament in? when the broken parts gets pushed into extruder wont it block it?

[Anonymous No.2629077]

>>2629076
Pretty much. There's always the small chance of the new filament getting caught as it enters the hotend, but if your filament path is smooth and feeding in new filament is easy then it should be no problem at all.
Normal stuff for a bowden setup.

[Anonymous No.2629160]

My little project is done
3- 5.25 optical bays converted to 4- 3.5 bays with a fan mount

[Anonymous No.2629163]

>>2629160
Oops

[Anonymous No.2629165]

>>2629163
How is the print so clean?

[Anonymous No.2629168]

>>2629165
It's really not that clean looking up close. But I printed extremely slow and both parts on rafts, it was almost 48h total. Everything is held in place with nuts and screws

[Anonymous No.2629185]

>>2629163
That model rocks! You have it up somewhere?

[Anonymous No.2629193]

>>2628940
no anon he's saying that it's attracted to a magnet but isn't itself a magnet, because it's steel
so there's nothing stopping you from flipping the steel part over, it will be attracted to the magnet regardless of orientation

[Anonymous No.2629205]

>>2629004
What are those, anon? I think I remember you or someone talking about an order they were doing.

[Anonymous No.2629207]

>>2629205
containers for 2 35mm film canisters with threaded caps, the plates that connect them have the company's logo on one side and contact info on the other

[Anonymous No.2629258]

>be me, want to play videogames with fren
>fren need go to hardware store
>no i say, we play videogames
>"hardware store come to us"
>take bad pictures for internet people

[Anonymous No.2629304]

>haven't bought filament in years
>have pretty good supply
>decide I want a new colour
>find colour
>it's a hair under $30
>sure, whatever, inflation, covid, etc. etc.
>shipping pushes it up to fourty-fucking-five dollars
A single roll of PLA shouldn't cost almost $50 from a US distributor. This is insane. What the fuck.

[Anonymous No.2629315]

>>2629304
>$50 for the entirety of the People's Liberation Army
Sounds like you're getting a pretty good deal from China.

[Anonymous No.2629342]

>>2629163
amazing work anon, keep it up

[Anonymous No.2629346]

So I’ve got an old ender 3 from 2019 that I never got around to using, well I wanna make one of those nerf musket things so I busted it out and set it up.

But I think I’m retarded because this shit isn’t working. I’m confident I haven’t leveled the bed properly, so that’s one issue. However while I do get some filament coming out the little motor that feeds it will literally pull the shit out???? Then be unable to add to the print.

So could someone please in a Tl;dr fashion explain what this “calibrate your printer” does? I feel like that would probably help but I’m about to pass out.

Good luck on your prints lads!

[Anonymous No.2629348]

Printed this the other night
honestly running out of shit to print

[Anonymous No.2629349]

>>2629163
top right looks delicious

>>2629346
>it will literally pull the shit out????
please describe what actually is happening.

for terminology:
the motor there is called the "extruder motor", and it turns the "extruder gear" which itself drives the filament into the "bowden tube" which should be firmly mounted in a "hydraulic fitting" on either end. The filament travels down this tube and into the "hot end" where it is melted and exits the "nozzle".

[Anonymous No.2629353]

>>2629348
>honestly running out of shit to print
how about this?
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/naughties/futa-centaur-v1

[Anonymous No.2629356]

>>2629353
Wow that's cancer

[Anonymous No.2629364]

>>2629348
Print "/3dpg/" writing like in the OP, but set your print speed or temperature to steadily get out of whack as the layers go on until it spaghetties, so we can have a really scuffed logo.

[Anonymous No.2629366]

Sell me on Klipper. I feel like it's useless if I don't know how to set it up properly and as far as I can tell the biggest benefit is faster printing, which I guess needs big brain settings in order to retain the same print quality.

[Anonymous No.2629376]

>>2629366
>biggest benefit is faster printing
No. Some printers cant print fast but still would benefit from klipper.
>neat web gui
>remote monitoring, spaghetti detection
>easy configuration via web gui
>linear advance and resonance compensation

[Anonymous No.2629377]

>>2629366
Unless you only print one thing a week/month, you'll more than make up for the time spent setting it up.
Printing over wi-fi and having a webcam link to remotely check if the print is fucking up is also useful, I guess.

[Anonymous No.2629385]

>>2629376
>linear advance and resonance compensation

Is it really that special?

>>2629377
I think the printing over wi-fi would be cool and necessary I guess, since I don't think I'm buying a separate display for my sbc.

[Anonymous No.2629405]

>>2629385
Pressure advance helps eliminate bulged square corners. Resonance compensation helps eliminate ghosting, which happens well below the limit of your belts unless you run them really tight.

[Anonymous No.2629535]

>ender 3 v2 glass bed somehow comes off its clips during middle of night print
what the fuck how

[Anonymous No.2629543]

>>2629376
>>remote monitoring, spaghetti detection
Never heard of this coming with klipper.

>>2629535
print head probably, how close was the print model to the clips?

[Anonymous No.2629552]

>>2629304
Take the ABS pill, enjoy 13 euro rolls

[Anonymous No.2629558]

>>2629543
Well kinda close initially, but it didn't knock them at all during the initial perimeter so I can't see why it failed after getting like 2cm high.

[Anonymous No.2629574]

>>2629543 Klipper could be integrated with botnets like Obico and Octo Everywhere

[Anonymous No.2629575]

>>2625660
I realize this is a week late but yes you can do that. After you slice it, it will show all the layers on the right that you can scroll through and add pauses when needed.

[Anonymous No.2629594]

>>2629552
a 13 euro roll is no longer a 13 euro roll if delivery still costs 15-20, the material itself is irrelevant

[Anonymous No.2629604]

>>2629348

[Anonymous No.2629627]

>>2629558
Yeah I had a feeling, it would had happen when print head was close to the bed, but it seems like it didn't.

Btw are they binder clips? If they were binder clips my guess is that the print head hit them but moved them enough to where it slowly backed off the bed from repeated back and forth motion over time.

Obviously this is just a guess.

>>2629574
I had a feeling thats where you were going with that. Isn't obico subscription based? They use to be "the spaghetti detective"

[Anonymous No.2629630]

>>2628842
How about you print yourself a father?

[Anonymous No.2629633]

>>2628853
Right now yes. Everything is proprietary and might be a pain in the ass in the future unless other chink manufactures start to copy bambu. But it looks like they get massive support from the CCP to establish themselves in the long run, that's why their prices are relatively low if you consider what you get.

[Anonymous No.2629635]

>>2629163
>>2629160
will you share your project somewhere, anon?

[Anonymous No.2629744]

I drilled and tapped an e3d v5 heatsink to M7 so it will accept a V6 heatbrakes, it ended up .2mm longer than stock, will see if it fits my Kingroon KP3S Pro S1 tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.2629761]

>>2629744
based chadroon enjoyer

[Anonymous No.2629765]

>>2629349
Sorry I'm bad at explaining shit.

So I've funnel'd the filament all the way through the bowden tube to the hot end and it exits the nozzle. It drips out nice and thin and I take it that it's ready. I start the print and it prints a nice straight line. Then it will do a second line and so on. However I've noticed that right when it's no longer putting filament onto the plate the extruder gear is actively pulling the filament out of the bowden tube. Which doesn't make any fucking sense to me so I stopped it and when I checked what was in the tube there was fucking nothing other than some melted filament.

Also now that I'm awake and looking at the calibrate your printer website I am convince that I'm retarded because NONE of this shit makes any sense to me.

Thanks for the response though!

[Anonymous No.2629777]

>>2629744
Very nice, anon.

[Anonymous No.2629781]

>>2629627
They're the push-on silvery steel clips that come with it. But not the ones that are fastened to the bed itself and rotate into place, which would probably have been more solid.

[Anonymous No.2629782]

>>2629765
The extruder naturally pulls back, it's called "retraction" and it prevents stringing between printing operations.

[Anonymous No.2629841]

>>2629258
what filament?

[Anonymous No.2629848]

>>2629575
NTA but thanks, might come in handy in the future.

[Anonymous No.2629862]

>>2628389
>Marlin
>11x11 ABL points, but in Hilbert Spiral
>It stops after 76 ish points
Is this normal behavior?

[Anonymous No.2629868]

i want to print petg on my ptfe nozzle but i'm scared, will i get brain damage?

[Anonymous No.2629899]

>>2629781
I have those or had those on my cr10s pro, they were OK but honestly blues painter tape in the 4 corners works as well.

[Anonymous No.2629914]

I printed a TPU bumper cap for my hydraulic jack handle and a protective case for a mini tire pressure gauge so hopefully it doesn't get too beat up bouncing around my car's glovebox. I haven't had much trouble with TPU other than annoying stringing, though I've only used this one spool of 95A. Even with a bowden setup.

[Anonymous No.2629933]

>>2628389
>Yuh Anon, get a PEI Sheet, adhesion will not be an issue with it anymore!

[Anonymous No.2629938]

>>2629933
Did you properly clean it? IPA is not properly cleaning it, all that will do is move the contamination around on the bed.

properly cleaning it with dish soap and warm water, a brush with nylon bristles helps. I use one like picture related.

[Anonymous No.2629940]

>>2629938
I'll try that.
I got a nylon brush that I use to clean my hands with, can I use that as well?

[Anonymous No.2629948]

>>2629940
the brush used to clean russet potatoes skins, and its been fine, idk how dirty your hands get just make sure the brush bristle are free of any debris and should be fine.

[Anonymous No.2629949]

>>2629940
oh and avoid getting on oil from your hands on it too, when I clean it I am normally wearing latex gloves but that's up to you, and I am probably just being irrational.

[Anonymous No.2629984]

>>2629948
>>2629949
Alright, did that, testing print right now

[Anonymous No.2629985]

>>2629841
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BQ3BCMQ7/

>>2629914
Love it, I should do this. The jack in my beater truck is wrapped in a scrap of carpet to keep it from rattling.

[Anonymous No.2629998]

I had to do a bit more machining to get the V5 heatsink to fit the Kingroon Pro, it might have been a waste of time, looking at the dimensions of the V6 heatsink, I think it will fit with no modifications. Just waiting on the V6 nozzles to do a test print. I have all the parts to make a V6 hotend on the way, we'll see if I can make all that fit.

[Anonymous No.2630001]

>>2629998
>looking at the dimensions of the V6 heatsink, I think it will fit with no modifications.
I mean, yeah, it does fit with no modifications.
A whole V6 hotend fits with no modifications.

[Anonymous No.2630005]

>>2630001
well, fuck...

[Anonymous No.2630012]

>>2628640
3 days late but thank you friend.

[Anonymous No.2630081]

>>2628389
Got some issues here that I seemingly cannot solve, any Inputs?
>Filament is sometimes overextruded and underextruded other times, on the same prints
>Ragged Edges on one side, clean edges on the other side of the same prints
>Print walls have uneven thickness and sometimes seperate after a few days
Filament is Amazon Basics PETG, I print with 250°C because some Anons told me printing too cold would cause weak layer strength. I could crank it up to 300°C (full metal hotend), but I don't know I wat to heat up PETG any higher than 250°C.

I've already tuned E-Steps to a ridiculous degree, the hotend is new (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0B2ZMJMDW)) because the old one just leaked petg out of every hole.

I also have problems with bed adhesion sometimes, but that's another issue.

[Anonymous No.2630144]

>>2630081
Still using the stock extruder?

[Anonymous No.2630145]

>>2629604
I wanted you about 3D printers, bro!

[Anonymous No.2630160]

>>2629998
If you bought a clone V6 it might be significantly shorter and will cost you to find a new cooling solution. I have a hero me setup on my kp3s right now. When I bought my second kingroon I just bought 10 pack of all metal heat breaks for the kp3s V5 so I don't have to be fucking around with that shit again. I will most likely revert my first kingroon back to V5, I hate all the plastic being used on the x carriage.

I bought clone V6 from Trianglelabs, and its so fucking short.

pic related, V5 stock on the left, vs Trianglelab V6.

[Anonymous No.2630162]

>>2629984
Its been 6 hours anon, any update?

[Anonymous No.2630166]

>>2630081
Anon is this you here?
>>2629933
>>2629984

if so, disregard my other post here. >>2630162

If not, well shit what the fuck,
>PETG

Did you dry it by any chance? I never printed with PETG, I just hear how quality of petg is night and day when you dry it in a oven or food dehydrator.

[Anonymous No.2630269]

>>2630160
yeah, the V6 heat break nozzle combination is around 2-3mm shorter than the stock kingroon setup, I tried adding a spacer which got me really close to the stock nozzle position, test print looked like shit I was able to drop nozzle temp by 20 degrees, I think my ABS filament is wet, the stock kingroon setup seems to be a lot more forgiving of wet filament, I think the filament is drying as it enters that long narrow heat break and the moisture is escaping the top of the heat sink. While in the V6 setup the filament is cold until it reaches the heat block and the moisture can only escape out the nozzle.

I cut another V5 heatsink but this one is 3mm longer to put the nozzle tip as close to the stock location as possible, the other option is to cut volcano nozzles down.

[Anonymous No.2630273]

>>2630269
So much work, why? Adjust the bed and/or z-axis endstop. No money or effort required.

[Anonymous No.2630274]

>>2630273
the problem is the fan duct will hang lower than the nozzle and it will take me a lot longer to learn to use a cad program than to make a new heatsink on a lathe.

[Anonymous No.2630275]

>>2628389
I have an Ender 3 and while I would like to print larger projects, I'm concerned about it bursting into flames in the middle of the night. Am I being overly concerned? Leaving appliances with heating elements on sketches me the fuck out

[Anonymous No.2630276]

>>2630274
There are several out there you could just download, print, and use. No CAD required.

You do you.

[Anonymous No.2630279]

>>2630275
>Am I being overly concerned?

No, you're not. Buy ferrule kits with crimpers, open the ender 3 take the wires out of the screw terminals cut the tinned wires, restrip crimp ferrules.

https://youtu.be/uVZur4QSEOA

[Anonymous No.2630288]

>>2630275
We just went over this in the last thread.

>>2627243
>should i really change all my internal connectors to ferrules?

>>2627246
>Yes you should.
>Twisted or tinned wires will displace and spread over time, the connection gets worse over time until you end up with a poor connection, high resistance, and a melted connector or possibly a fire.
>Vibrations from normal use contribute to this, as well as thermal cycling (which will happen whether you use the printer or not), there's no "avoiding" it.
>Spend the pennies to ensure you don't end up dying a bug's death.
>Your homeowners or renters insurance won't give a FUCK about you when they find out your chinkbox with the fake UL sticker set your house on fire.

[Anonymous No.2630289]

>>2630275
>>2630288
Beyond that, the other "big one" is stock firmware. Numb digger bugmen don't have the completely normal and standard safety features enabled in some firmware versions. Fuck whatever Creality offers currently, compile some fresh Marlin or if you're a lazy 'tard go find a precompiled version for your printer that has thermal runaway protection enabled.

[Anonymous No.2630292]

>>2630279
>>2630288
>>2630289
>ferrule kits
Assume I'm retarded and have just slightly more knowledge than useless normies when it comes to electronics. Is this just a more sturdy/safe connector or something similar to a fuse that'll fail before shit goes down?

Overall what I'm hearing is to replace my connections and get firmware that isn't chinked. Is that enough to stop my heating element from accidentally going nuclear?

[Anonymous No.2630295]

>>2630292
>just a more sturdy/safe connector
They're shoving bare stranded wire or solder-tinned wires into screw terminals. This is bad, especially for high power connections. Over time, they displace, the resistance gets high, they catch fire and burn your fucking house down.
Or you install some ferrules, which is the correct way to use stranded wire with screw-terminals.

[Anonymous No.2630313]

>>2630295
Is there a decent budget kit, or is some deluxe set what I need?

[Anonymous No.2630314]

>>2630313
Cheap is fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Self-adjustable-AWG-23-7-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B0B23V7ZQJ/
Even cheaper on Aliexpress.

[Anonymous No.2630315]

>>2630162
Build plate adhesion still sucks, not as bad anymore. Also adjusted the Z axis, again, but I think this issue will not be solved until I finally do the Belted Z Mod.
>>2630144
Checked, the stock Sprite Pro Extruder. I'm working on a mod to mount it like a hemera so the cantilever force isn't as high anymore (will release that Mod on ThingiVerse for free as well, OpenSource is Life), maybe add a Volcano CHT Nozzle (and Block). Depends.
>>2630166
Checked, yeah that's me.
I've dried the PETG for 48 hours with my eSUN eBox lite. I have no fucking clue anymore.

[Anonymous No.2630330]

>>2630314
Thanks, anon

[Anonymous No.2630341]

>demand paying for essential features like per-model hollowing and support collisions
>Slow as shit slicing
>They still haven't fixed the memory leak
>"Oh this is a great time to branch development out to a completely different technology!"
>Only alternatives are even more shit
I want to beat everyone at Mango3d into a bloody pulp.

[Anonymous No.2630347]

>>2630341
>hurrrr give me everything I want and make it freeeee now now now now now
Why are manchildren like this

[Anonymous No.2630356]

>>2630341
Make a request to the autist (Sn4k3) who works on UVtools, or even contribute to the codebase yourself. He works on it a lot, it's definitely worth a donation if you like the software. Also good for making PCBs.

[Anonymous No.2630357]

>>2630341
You get to choose shitu box that barely works made by chinese devs or lychee by the french who think they're god's gift to 3d printing. both are terrible programs.

[Anonymous No.2630358]

>>2630341
Time to switch to PrusaSlicer and UVTools.
If there's something you don't like, you can just fix it yourself.

[Anonymous No.2630376]

>>2628389
Any good guides out there on making resin molds with a 3d printer? I just started thinking that if I'm gonna print a gorillion ttrpg miniature accessories and accents, using molds might be faster. I have zero experience working with molds, and I hear I'll need to tweak my initial model scale depending on what materials I'm working with.

[Anonymous No.2630388]

>>2630376
>using molds might be faster
What's your printer type? Resin or Extrusion?
If it's resin - making a gorillion should be faster by printing since it prints the whole layer at once, meaning you just fill your plate with minis and have them all be done in time it would take for the tallest one of the bunch to be printed alone, since only Z dimensions of the print affect the total time. It's a different case with machines like Form1-3 where it's true SLA and uses a laser, instead of DLP and LCD technology like anycubic and elegoo ones where it uses a display/projector, but i doubt anyone here has one of forms' machines and materials for them.
I don't have experience with molds myself but from what i've seen you need to also spend time with vacuum fuckery, resin preparation+solidifying times and also mold preparation, which looks like it would take more than printing and throwing a bunch of minis into alcohol+UV.

[Anonymous No.2630408]

>>2630288 (Checked)
>>2627246
You lads made me do it. Took like half an hour and I also got to clean the entire thing. Good that I had my crimping set from work on me.

Thanks

[Anonymous No.2630419]

>>2630388
It's an extrusion.
>inb4 bruh resin printers are better for ttrpg shit
Didn't know that at the time and it's sunk cost fallacy

[Anonymous No.2630421]

>>2630315
Since I know you're printing petg makes more sense why you are having problems, unfortunately I can't be of any use, I never printed petg, I went from pla to ABS/TPU. I do have two spools of overture PETG still "sealed" I mean its been two/three years I know I will need to put it in a food dehydrator or something.

Anon I wish you the best of luck in your endeavors to get petg to print. I heard petg first layer height likes to be hgiher, I am sure you already tried this, but I figured I would mention it in the off chance.

>>2630419
well how about you use extrusion printer in other ways for TTRPG and drop money on a resin? I am sure printing a

>dice tower
https://thangs.com/search/dice%20tower?scope=all&view=compact-grid

>token trays
https://thangs.com/search/token%20trays?scope=all&view=compact-grid

>tabletop in general
https://thangs.com/search/tabletop?scope=all&view=compact-grid

Of course I know next to nothing when it comes to tabletop printing so what I suggesting is probably shit, just trying to help and hope to alleviate sunk cost fallacy.

[Anonymous No.2630433]

>>2628867
all 3 of my printers print better

[Anonymous No.2630439]

>>2629304
lol I pay $20 for a roll of PLA+ from Micro Center

[Anonymous No.2630442]

Any anons know what brand is this thing? photo isnt mine i dont have it here

[Anonymous No.2630445]

>>2630408
im assuming this >>2630292 is you, you work with electronics yet didn't know what ferrules are? wtf

[Anonymous No.2630447]

>decide to build 3d printer case out of 15mm wood
>case is made
>want to insert 3d printer into it
>the fucking cabling is abominal and too short
FUUUUUUUU-

[Anonymous No.2630449]

>>2630408
Good job, anon, you're much safer for it.

>>2630447
Time to make some new wiring, you got crimpers right?

[Anonymous No.2630450]

>>2630449
Those wires don't need crimpers. I'm just going to cut them off, solder in a extension, put shrinking tube over it, solder it again, and be done with it.

[Anonymous No.2630485]

>>2630442
geetech rostock

I made the terrible mistake of starting my 3dp journey by getting one of this. I still wonder why i dint quit back then. It was a huge pain to operate it.

[Anonymous No.2630495]

>>2630445
Not me, that was the anon from the previous thread

[Anonymous No.2630516]

PLA is terrible as a "basic" material isn't it?

Constant glue sticking the bed and what-not is just silly.

And even my Bambu x1 carbon needs a better solution than laying lines on the print surface before each print.

[Anonymous No.2630526]

>>2630516
PLA is the greatest material for "basic" and "general purpose" shit.
You never need gluestick or other adhesives, PLA sticks well to plain glass, textured glass, PEI/Ultem, G10, PEI coated steel, it's the easiest material to print.
It's also very strong, it fails in certain other ways and of course has terrible heat resistance, but it's much stronger than some realize. There's a reason that impact-modified "PLA+" is so widely recommended for printing guns, it's tough stuff and forgiving to print, just won't last in the real world the way that ABS and Nylon do.

If you've got an enclosed printer though, then there's not much point to it. ABS and ASA are better in most ways, and a better value thanks to their lower density. They can be a bitch to print for an open-air bedslinger, but any printer with an enclosure can laugh off ABS or ASA.

[Anonymous No.2630527]

>>2630445
Nope, that's not me. I'm the Bad Bed Adhesion on PEI and Cannot Print fucking PETG Anon with the Yellow / Red / Black Ender 3 Pro and Sprite Pro Extruder. I also know what ferrules are from work (again, not that Anon, different Anon, but I also dick around with electronics), just wasn't bothered enough before I saw those pictures.

>>2630449
Thanks Anon

>>2628389
Back to "How do I unfuck xyz". Pic related. What causes these? PLA prints just fine. This thing was printed with 77% flow rate because I was trying to figure out if I was still overextruding filament. I still am for some fucking reason, but I also want to fix these holes, they were also present with 100% flow rate.

Anyone have any clue?

[Anonymous No.2630528]

>>2630526
you're the first person to recommend ABS and ASA from my research

I am going to use PET-CF and PCTPE maybe some PA-CF

[Anonymous No.2630532]

>>2630527
Forgot, that's Amazon Basics PETG (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07T2QZYS1)), dried for 55hours in an eSUN eBox Lite on level 2 (65°C ish).
Tower went from 260°C and failed at 245°C. No part cooling, 4cm retraction (I know, don't tell me).

I can break apart the parts at the "hole layers", but it takes a serious amount of force, so much so that I hurt myself while doing so.

[Anonymous No.2630543]

>>2630408
Ferrules are primarily for classic screw terminals where you screw directly into the wire.

But those green terminals in your printer have a metal spring between screw and wire.
Ferrules aren't really necessary for those. The only benefit is that it keeps the copper from oxidizing when properly crimped but your ends are already tinned anyway.

[Anonymous No.2630561]

>>2630543
>But those green terminals in your printer have a metal spring between screw and wire.
>Ferrules aren't really necessary for those.

[Anonymous No.2630563]

>>2630561
NTA, but there's one thing I don't understand: Wouldn't that also happen with ferrules? Do they somehow reduce thermal expansion enough to not be a problem? Because from what I've seen so far it looks more like a screw terminal problem than a wire problem.

[Anonymous No.2630564]

>>2630561
Interesting. So you're actually better off cutting of the soldered end and putting it in raw.

[Anonymous No.2630565]

>>2630532
>I know, don't tell me
i feel dirty going as high as 8 mm

[Anonymous No.2630574]

>>2630564
Actually yes, but that's still not ideal. Bare stranded wire that's twisted tight will still displace over time, but not as quickly or easily as tinned wire.

>>2630563
Ferrules are crimped onto the wire, a good crimp is air tight, low resistance, and permanent. When you crimp a ferrule onto some stranded wire, you create a solid structure that will retain its shape, it won't be displaced or deformed. Essentially, you're turning a stranded wire into a solid wire, which is exactly what you want for a screw terminal.
Solder is soft, it cracks and/or displaces easily. A solid crimped mass of copper will not.

[Anonymous No.2630577]

>>2630574
Hmm, I'll need to look into this if I ever plan on working with lots of watts. Thanks for the info.
If I remember correctly my printer does already have crimped wires so it won't catch fire anytime soon. Hopefully.

[Anonymous No.2630582]

>>2630565
I was doing 10 cm when I had a bowden setup, but I have a direct drive extruder right now and 4cm is the absolute limit it can go. Creality recommends 2mm at most. I do 2000% of that.
>>2630574
>Bare stranded wire that's twisted tight will still displace over time, but not as quickly or easily as tinned wire.
Not any of those anons, but my Ender 3 Pro ran 5 years without any incident ...

[Anonymous No.2630592]

>>2630582
>direct drive
>4cm
No point going that far, at that point the melt is separated from the filament. Hell even 10 mm will separate the filament from the melt. Pulling it further back doesn't do anything because you are not exerting negative pressure on the melt when the filament is not even touching the melt. It just wastes time and grinds up your filament.

Your problem is likely no gripping due to the abraded filament because of the exaggerated amount of rolling of the extruder gear.
Or the filament swell before the melt zone is pulled back too much and causes extra friction in the extruder, making the deretraction inefficient.

[Anonymous No.2630672]

What do you guys do with thr last few metres of filament on a spool? Chuck it or splice it to the next one?

[Anonymous No.2630676]

>>2630672
Save it for small shit, or chuck it.
Splicing sucks balls, too much effort, shitty results. Manually feeding in new filament behind the end of another spool is an easy way to seamlessly move from one spool to the next without waste. Especially easy with a filament runout sensor.

[Anonymous No.2630692]

>>2630672
i just keep printing, never had issues switching rolls mid print with my p1p and used up all my partial rolls of white, black, and grey

[Anonymous No.2630696]

Is there a way to pause an Ender 3 print without introducing a weird defect? Never tried it on an actual print, but when just fucking around calibrating shit I've tried it, and it has a noticeable glob and spike of filament where it stops and raises up.

[Anonymous No.2630718]

you guys actually insulate your heated beds to retain heat?

[Anonymous No.2630730]

>>2630672
I save them for shit like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5351646
where pausing and swapping filaments after a couple of layers is expected.
>>2630696
"pause at height" is the setting you're looking for in your slicer if you're pausing to swap filaments. If you're not, then just try and pause after the end of a layer

[Anonymous No.2630739]

>>2630718
Yes, getting the bed up to 120c to print ABS takes about 15 minutes, I need all the help I can get.

[Anonymous No.2630742]

>>2630739
Why print ABS compared to something CF though?

[Anonymous No.2630743]

>>2630739
>printing ABS creates toxic fumes

ffs

[Anonymous No.2630744]

I got the V6 in the kingroon, I had to trim the brass crimps for the X axis belt, relocate the bltouch, the first duct I printed out of ABS began to melt, so I'm trying an OEM style duct, for now.

[Anonymous No.2630747]

>>2630743
I also drink alcohol and have unprotected sex, what's your point?

[Anonymous No.2630749]

>>2630742
260c is as high as the kingroon will go, I am slowly working up to higher temps

[Anonymous No.2630758]

>finally have ender printing near perfect after lots of tuning and testing
>soon after get bored and decide to try a 2 in 2 out setup
>spend a few weeks on and off buying parts, setting up and tuning
>turns out it sucks and I hate it
>now have to return it to before and probably retune it
>that was 3 months ago
haven't even looked at the damn thing let alone fixed it yet. knew I shouldn't have fucked with it.

[Anonymous No.2630776]

>>2630758
Or, you could sell it to the next sucker and start again with a blank slate.

[Anonymous No.2630779]

What's the go-to runout sensor? I already have an idler/pulley/wheel to keep my filament from scraping against my extruder, so was thinking of just adding slots in it to use with an optical encoder. That way it could also detect filament jams, though this might require a sensor on the lines of the stepper to sync the two up. But that still wouldn't detect my extruder splurging TPU out the sides.

Do things like this exist for marlin to configure by?

[Anonymous No.2630788]

>>2630758
sell to sucker
buy bambu instead

less bs is always better, I don't care what self-professed "tinkerers" say.

[Anonymous No.2630789]

>>2630779
An endstop switch, that's it, just a cheap switch and a printed housing for it, shove in some teflon tube for good measure.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3052714
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4745932
https://www.printables.com/model/209713

There are all kinds of fancy and "smart" runout sensors and they mostly suck fucking balls, take the cheap/free route. If you want to go fancy with it get an optical switch, there are tons of designs based around those too.

[Anonymous No.2630791]

>>2630779
What you're describing is more like the use of a filament "motion" sensor. Check Marlin's Configuration.h for FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR.
You grab an optical switch and print an encoder wheel, allows both jams and runout to trip the runout script.

[Anonymous No.2630839]

PLA is the worst filament to print because the prints are often worthless.

[Anonymous No.2630848]

>>2630839
brittle crap, you might as well use a resin printer

[Anonymous No.2630851]

>>2630791
Oh so it does already exist, thanks.

>>2630839
It's pretty rigid though, more so than PETG. But not too great at creepage. It's a good filament for things that need to be dimensionally stable while not under too much continuous force, things like gridfinity, alignment jigs, and small/light or non-drop-proof enclosures. If you're making something under continuous load, I think you want to use polycarbonate.

[Anonymous No.2630852]

what can I use to work with models with over 10k triangles that doesn't freeze and fail constantly like Fusion 360 does?

[Anonymous No.2630859]

>ordered filament from a local store
>chose in store pickup so I can go for a drive
>delivery dude calls today
>all excited thinking it's my printer from 3djake
>it's just the filament

I didn't even put an address for delivery what the fuck is this? My N3P should be coming in in a few days now. Can't wait bros. Should I be checking the codes on the filament or something to check how old the batch is by the way? It's packaged nicely so I guess it doesn't matter maybe.

[Anonymous No.2630862]

>>2630776
>>2630788
>just spend 1500 bucks on a once in a while hobby
should I make a gofundme so you guys can contribute?

[Anonymous No.2630870]

>>2630862
I'll give you 10.

[Anonymous No.2630872]

>>2630862
Tell me you're poor without telling me you're poor

[Anonymous No.2630874]

>>2630347
I would pay for it if it wasn't subscription based. Fuck that. I want to pay for software once and then be able to use that version until forever with all features available at that time and in the tier I've paid for.

[Anonymous No.2630876]

>>2630870
what a pal, but unnecessary because apparently Mr richfag over here >>2630872 can just buy me one hell even two since he loses $1,500 in the wash all the time

[Anonymous No.2630885]

>>2630876
I'll give you 10 AND beat his ass to take 10 from him to give to you to make it 20.

[Anonymous No.2630893]

>>2630744
>I had to trim the brass crimps for the X axis belt

Was that because the brass was hitting the bed first and not letting your bltouch trigger? If so, I was wondering if that was the reason my bl wouldnt trigger on my kingroon sometimes.

[Anonymous No.2630894]

>>2630791
It confuses me why people don't use this as a default, even if jams never happen it doesn't hurt to have that capability.

[Anonymous No.2630957]

>>2628389
Hey, is there any chance to flash Creatbot F1000 with custom firmware?

[Anonymous No.2630968]

>>2628389
>How retard are you
>Qidi tech: Yes
Never seen a parakeet Gaskammer like this before: https://www.3djake.de/qidi-tech/duese-ptfe

[Anonymous No.2630984]

>>2630957
Nope.
It's a Chinkanese industrial printer, you can't do anything to it aside from beg Xi to fix it.

[Anonymous No.2630986]

>>2630862
I used to be poor too, then I got a job as a software engineer.

Going to be poor again soon, but from saving so much damn money. Goign to buy a duplex/triplex and soak up rent money like a fat prize pig.

[Anonymous No.2631039]

>>2628389
Ok this is the most retarded question that I may ask, but I have to satisfy my curiosity.

I Have two almost stock printers, a neptune 3 plus and a kingroon kp3s, both only running klipper and have a clone of a cht nozzle.
I want to print a bit faster and it seems that on both cases (more so in the Neptune) the hot end is the on I should be replacing. However I have no idea of a clear upgrade path for both.

what do you recommend anons?

[Anonymous No.2631082]

We had my mom's celebration of life party on Saturday. You can see the pots on the tables in this picture. Don't know if anyone got a close up photo of them but I got tons of compliments on them. They turned out really well and fit with the ongoing pink and purple team. A lot of people wanted to take one home with them.

[Anonymous No.2631084]

>>2631082
Another view.

[Anonymous No.2631131]

I have layering issues. Turns out my filament wasn't the issue, or well, it is, because other filament prints just fine. PLA+ prints horrible, ePLA-ST prints great, print temp is 210 for both. Thought it was wet or dusty filament because it was sitting still for over half a year, but bought some new PLA+ and it's the same shit all over again, it just skips entire layers for some reason.

Used to be able to print with it just fine, I don't know what changed. Maybe some slicer settings in cura, but speed, extrusion and temperature haven't changed over the years. Always used 200 and 210 for PLA and PLA+ and it worked. Esun ePLA-ST was new to me, but in the recommended temperature settings there's only a 5 degree difference between the two.

I have noticed that since I took apart the hotend the thermistor might be a little off or something, beforehand when it approached the set temperature it went from 210 to 208 before rising to 210 again, now it goes back 5 degrees to 205 before it goes back up again to 210, but that can't be it, difference can't be that huge. Like I said, the ePLA-ST is just fine.

I'm going to work through some of the suggestions in this link: https://www.3dsourced.com/guides/3d-printer-skipping-layers/
But the nozzle isn't it, made sure of that last time. Extruder failing isn't it either, no stripping, that's all good. I was having issues with the bed making clicking sounds, tightened one wheel a little cause it was a tiny bit loose, it clicks even more now, might have to replace the weels, but that isn't it either, I only have this issue with the PLA+. I dunno, just think it's weird.

Gonna print some small things at different temps first, see if that fixes things. Any guesses as to if it's going to be higher or lower?

[Anonymous No.2631135]

is a printed bowden-to-direct-drive conversion for an ender 3 reliable, and which one in that case? or should I just get a cheap metal kit of amazon?

[Anonymous No.2631161]

>>2630893
I didn't notice they were hitting the bed until they scraped my first layer off the bed, my bltouch fails to deploy sometimes, the soldering is pretty bad on them so that might be the issue.

[Anonymous No.2631166]

I want to put a PT1000 in my Kingroon, seems like it should just work after changing the probe type and recompiling Marlin. what trouble am I getting myself into.

[Anonymous No.2631176]

>>2631082
>>2631084

Thats great anon I am glad it worked out for you, where did this happen at? Its pretty generic landscaping but I am going to take a stab of it being lake of the ozarks.

[Anonymous No.2631179]

Are printables contests worth doing or does everyone just post stolen shit or memes?

[Anonymous No.2631183]

>>2631179
Worth doing. It's good design practice, you win points you can spend on filament, there's really no downside if you want some CAD practice. It is in no way a serious competition, and shitloads of people do push garbage and quick remixes.
I do them for the sake of the practice, they're usually simple and unconstrained, and if you've got no ideas just look at what others have been submitting, constant source of fun evening projects.

[Anonymous No.2631186]

>>2631176
>ozarks
Not even close. A small lake in Northern Lower Michigan.

[Anonymous No.2631190]

>>2631186
>>2631176
I take that back, it was still in the Midwest, so pretty close.

[Anonymous No.2631197]

>>2630485
holy shit, i didnt even notice it has 3 extruders, it looks insanely shitty to operate
some woman is giving it to me for free so im gonna try to save it

[Anonymous No.2631210]

>>2631186
>>2631190
Ah I figured I would be wrong.

[Anonymous No.2631245]

anyone tried something like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1VmIYheuU4
i want to make some moulds

[Anonymous No.2631249]

>>2629348
print a 1 foot tall assembled Battletech comguard level 2 from the 3rd army 203rd Division (Strong Messages IV-xi) pick appropriate mechs 1 Medium, 3 Heavy, 2 Assault.

the pre-anniversary of the Battle of Tukayyid is coming up. alll models are on trannygram.
comguards are white on white paintjobs.

[Anonymous No.2631326]

I've been using a multitude of 3d scanners for clients and my own personal 3d printing projects. I'm currently scanning thermoplastic resin miniatures from a new KS boardgame to 3d print, and I'm having trouble prying them apart gently to avoid damaging the resin miniatures. What would help is if I had a solvent to dissolve the adhesive.

This time I got lucky and manages to get this shield out. On the insert tabs, I found this white residue that I believe is the adhesive agent. It doesn't look like any superglue I've come across. Do you guys have any idea what it is, and what I can use to dissolve it?

[Anonymous No.2631340]

>>2631326
Knowing the material would help. This is from a Kickstarter boardgame? They'd probably tell you what the miniatures are made of if you ask, assuming it doesn't say somewhere in their existing shit.
It may not be adhesive, they may be solvent-welded, which could make this a bitch. Good luck, anon.

[Anonymous No.2631348]

>>2631340
Thanks. Just to keep it on topic, posting a picture of scans

[Anonymous No.2631372]

Is Cura still an acceptable option for slicing prints?

[Anonymous No.2631380]

>>2631082
Looks like a good turnout, nice to see that.

[Anonymous No.2631460]

is speeding up your print midway with the knob bad practice? I almost never do it but I decided I don't want to wait until possibly 9pm to see this piece now that the complex parts are over.

[Anonymous No.2631521]

RRRUUUUAAARRRRRGGGHHH

I thought I had a 0.2mm nozzle on it, it came with a 0.4 the whole time. My layer heights and everything were fucked from the start. Still, not too bad prints from it.

[Anonymous No.2631523]

>>2631521
But now I have 0.6 complete hot-end assembly to go with my complete 0.4 assembly and a backup 0.2 nozzle.

[Anonymous No.2631531]

anybody have nay 3d stl files of the usual memes like the merchant, pepe or tyrone

[Anonymous No.2631538]

>>2631521
>>2631523
omg it's amazing

prints PLA-CF like golden dragon shit at 100% infill in record time

[Anonymous No.2631549]

>>2631372
>>2628389
>What slicer should I use?
>For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for P1P/X1 owners.
>For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
>For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

Cura has a fucking terrible interface, but aside from that it's a perfectly good slicer.

>>2631460
Yes, it's a bad thing to do, it's not how you should be tuning your prints. It speeds up *everything* within the limits of your acceleration, it can really fuck things.
Still, for simple print it's not like I haven't done it. It's just bad practice and really shouldn't be a feature at all.

[Anonymous No.2631552]

>>2631245
seen it on youtube a bunch, best way is to get special filament for the printer that burns away without leaving anything that screw up the metal.

then you coat the plastic "form" shape with a high-temp spray/putty--it will hold the molten metal once the print burns away.

[Anonymous No.2631563]

Damn bros my printer is arriving tomorrow and I got the filament too. I just don't have my bigtree sbc for klipper. It's stuck in china still. I don't know if I should wait for the board or start printing my stuff asap. I have a shit ton of projects I want to do and the faster I get things out of the way the better. Might be a waste learning and dialing things up with the regular software to then have to redo the same thing with clipper in a couple of weeks. I wanted klipper to speed up the process too. Allegedly it's much faster.

[Anonymous No.2631568]

>>2631563
It won't be any faster in your hands. Start printing now, worry about Klipper later.
The speed advantage it carried at one time isn't nearly as significant as it used to be, and will be nonexistent to an amateur who doesn't know what they're doing.
You'll be slowed down more by your own mistakes and poor choices in slicer settings, you need experience, just start printing.

[Anonymous No.2631573]

>>2631568
But bro the NP3 comes with that gay little screen and I don't want to use that. I want to navigate everything over wifi from my phone, which Klipper offers...

[Anonymous No.2631582]

>>2631573
Well I guess you're a faggot, when you get bored of that printer (after you realize it requires effort to use), be sure to sell it cheap.

[Anonymous No.2631585]

>>2631582
I am NOT a faggot and this is supposed to be my end game printer.

[Anonymous No.2631590]

>>2631585
Is your printer printing right now? Because if not, fuck you.

[Anonymous No.2631594]

>>2631590
This will be my first printer. I've never even seen one irl before.

[Anonymous No.2631596]

>>2631585
>this is supposed to be my end game printer
>>2631594
>This will be my first printer. I've never even seen one irl before.

>>2631568
>Start printing now
>You'll be slowed down more by your own mistakes and poor choices in slicer settings, you need experience, just start printing.
>>2631582
>when you get bored of that printer (after you realize it requires effort to use), be sure to sell it cheap.

[Anonymous No.2631597]

>>2631568
get a credit card, put a Bambu p1p on it.

[Anonymous No.2631600]

>>2631596
retard

[Anonymous No.2631610]

>>2631594
Get your head out of your ass.
3dprinting is easier than ever, yes, but you still have a lot to learn. I do printing in resin since I find it easier and I've moved on to fdm to print large bases for my animu figures, and let me tell you, you're gonna screw up HARD.
I did the same thing, jumping into klipper ASAP on my neptune 3 plus and it has caused me endless headaches because I didn't understand shit and my settings were shit.
If you want to print as soon as it comes out of the box, stick a to stock firmware and figure out what your machine can do, then when you've encountered enough errors that you can solve them again quickly if they pop up again, jump to Klipper.
People love to fucking fellate Klipper as if it will give you a 2x boost and that is a fucking lie cause even if Klipper allows more fine tunning, guess what, a stock printer won't see much of a benefit because Elegoo is a company that only wants sheckels and will stick the cheapest things to get the things done. So your Hardware will be your bottleneck to achieve what you want, you will need to swap pieces and learn to tune everything, if you don't know what your machine can do stock, you will only waste money on useless money pits because you're swapping pieces at an unnecessary rate.
Take the machine out, start printing with it even if it is slow, and tune your shit like it's the only thing you'll ever own, and then you can move to a more enthusiast-level configuration.

Or as someone said, buy a p1p/x1c that meme prints oob and called it a day.

either way, PRINT motherfucker PRINT, better slow than never done because you're stuck figuring out what the fuck is happening to your machine.

[Anonymous No.2631611]

>>2631610
>I do printing in resin

I don't want to print anime tits. I want to print functional items.

[Anonymous No.2631613]

>>2631610
Don't feed the troll.

[Anonymous No.2631615]

>>2631613
see >>2631600

[Anonymous No.2631678]

>>2630341
Does Cura not support SLA?

[Anonymous No.2631680]

>>2631678
Fuck no. PrusaSlicer does but should paired with UVTools if not using a Prusa SLA printer.

[Anonymous No.2631748]

>>2631611
PLA-CF at 100% infill is pretty dank

working on trying out PAHT-CF (bambu) right now

[Anonymous No.2631752]

>>2631176
>where did this happen at?

[Anonymous No.2631755]

>>2631748
wooooah a thin sheet of this stuff is pretty tough, it tears though

[Anonymous No.2631766]

This PAHT-CF frame is going to be so damn dank.

[Anonymous No.2631767]

>>2631752
My grammar sucks I know.

[Anonymous No.2631770]

woah this print I found on the internet of PLA-CF is pretty neat

wonder if the airsoft gun will work when it's finished?

[Anonymous No.2631779]

>>2631770
PLA-CF is brittle garbage sold for appearances and incredible stiffness, mechanically it is absolute shit.
It won't survive as a Glock frame, it will shatter, so I certainly hope that's for airsoft even though obviously it isn't.

[Anonymous No.2631799]

>>2631779
yeah PLA is shit anyway, should never even be printed.

Maybe PA-CF is better though.

[Anonymous No.2631800]

https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/u-s-army-develops-high-strength-multi-polymer-filament-for-use-with-low-cost-3d-printers-171038/

hmmmm I wonder what this is, if real.

[Anonymous No.2631801]

>>2631800
>ABS and PC mixture

[Anonymous No.2631808]

>>2628389
I've got my Saturn in my basement and I'm going to be ripping down a bunch of drywall down there soon, will it be fine staying where it is if I keep it shrouded or should I move it somewhere where the drywall dust wont be getting on it

[Anonymous No.2631813]

>>2631800
Real and ancient at this point.
It's just coextruded ABS and Polycarbonate, go check out that foreign kid who does the thing: https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/pc-core-abs-testing-dual-material-filament-for-warp-less-annealing

[Anonymous No.2631815]

>>2631808
It'd probably be totally fine with a sheet or tarp draped over it just to keep the dust off, but given the option I'd say move it.

[Anonymous No.2631836]

>>2631808
drywall is probably abrasive, just cover it

[Anonymous No.2631838]

>>2629160
>>2629185
>>2629635
I shared it on thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6075758
Made a very slight adjustment to the model to make it 2mm shorter. In my case I had to bed some metal out of the way to make it fit

[Anonymous No.2631843]

>>2631838
Thank you anon, highly appreciated, such a great model.

[Anonymous No.2631855]

>>2631326
are cheap scanners like the creality one worth it?
i mostly print stuff for tools (like a bit holder for my electric screwdriver) and mounts for electronics/PCBs. using calipers with a fuckton of trial and error is annoying at times

[Anonymous No.2631862]

>>2631799
>>2631779
>>2631770
PLA+/PLA Pro is where its at for the airsoft bros.

[Anonymous No.2631934]

>>2631862
>deforms in a car on a cold summer's day
nah

[Anonymous No.2631947]

It's here!

[Anonymous No.2631992]

I printed two identical figures but one is clearly taller than the other. The only difference in the slicer was the layer height being 0.16 on one and 0.2 on the other.
Shouldn't only the layer count be different but the final size the same? Was it because of different Z offset settings?

[Anonymous No.2631995]

>>2628389
Looking for an open source tool I can use to design basic models. Ideally I'd be able to input dimensions of the shape and edit from there.

[Anonymous No.2632006]

>>2631995
>open source
FreeCAD, OpenSCAD

[Anonymous No.2632007]

>>2631995
How basic are we talking?
Because if you're just looking to start with actual basic geometry, like cubes and cylinders, and then maybe edit or combine some existing models, you can just use Microsoft 3D Builder.

[Anonymous No.2632008]

ALRIGHT.

IT BEARS MENTIONING.

Bambu PAHT-CF prints with PAHT-CF supports are a FUCKING NIGHTMARE to remove. Use the support-G filament anons.

[Anonymous No.2632015]

>>2632008
and here like 40 minutes after starting, I'm still removing this shit.

[Anonymous No.2632020]

>>2623546
And I'm gonna do it bros. Just to make my own wires
I just want to ask few questions about it:
Its a chink copy of V6 and from what I remember I need to change the type of heater cartridge. But then its a chink clone so I'm not so sure. Any chink V6 owner can confirm?

[Anonymous No.2632021]

>>2632015
still not done btw

PAHT-CF is gnarly shit, like basically Nylon 6

[Anonymous No.2632039]

>>2632021
alright, it's mostly clean now. Just a few smaller sections left.

[Anonymous No.2632055]

>>2631934
>not designing your parts to dissipate heat
Amateur

[Anonymous No.2632088]

>>2628389
Alright, it's been like a month already and i have no idea the fuck is happening.
When i just bought my printer (Flyingbear Ghost 6) it used to print PETG at stock cura profiles perfectly. I could even bump up the speed and have it still be pretty good.
After some modifications (bimetal Heatbreak, nozzle replaced from MK8 to E3D, klipper boards, etc), it refuses to print PETG at stock speeds whatsoever. It keeps shitting out blobs somewhere around infill-inner wall area that it hits later during printing and sometimes catches onto layers UNLESS i lower the speed from 60 to 40mm/s.
I suspect this has something to do with the flow, but why exactly did that happen now if i could print PETG properly with it out of the box at three times the speed?
>Nozzles
Unless changing MK8 to E3D (With appropriate heatbreak, i'm not that retarded) has an effect on this - i have tried several different brass and steel nozzles including a trianglelab one i am using right now. Still same shit.
>Heatbreak
Only thing i havent tried to test is the stock heatbreak - It's just a long hollow steel, i think, tube with thread at the end and. Several E3D heatbreaks i've tried didn't change shit, including the custom FBG6 bimetal one i have right now.
>Heater unit
The whole assembly is not stock but only real difference is the thermistor type and the fact that the aluminium on the brick is machined instead of powder. The heater itself is 50W like the original hotend, and it keeps the temperature steady, judging by the graph.
>Extruder
Stock direct drive. Works alright with PLA, and works alright with slower speeds. Cogs look fine.
>PTFE Tube between the heatbreak and extruder
I have no idea how would it even make a difference, but i used the same tube i cut it from when i was rocking the old head assembly and it worked flawlessly.

Help me anons

[Anonymous No.2632112]

>>2632088
Is your printer plugged in?

[Anonymous No.2632352]

If you had 7 litres of 8k resin, what would you print?

[Anonymous No.2632353]

>>2631995
Look at FreeCAD forks.

[Anonymous No.2632388]

>>2632352
Drink it and become a 3d printer

[Anonymous No.2632406]

>>2632388
>Take that, Jo

[Anonymous No.2632454]

Is there a "right way" to design something?
I'm fueled purely off of my high school engineering class.

[Anonymous No.2632467]

>>2632454
Try to keep in mind that your printer is basically pissing out threads that are 0.4mm wide,or whatever nozzle you are using. So there is not any point in making any part of your model less than that. Also I try to work in multiples of the nozzle size on areas that won't have infill.
Also keep in mind that it is printed layer by layer with anisotropic properties that make it significantly weaker in one direction. When designing, try to think about how force will be applied to it and if your print orientation will be appropriate to handle it
There are beginner guides on YouTube can that help you get more advanced knowledge

[Anonymous No.2632552]

Going to try leaving a tiny sliver of material (a single layer) for light from an LED to shine through, illuminating letters. I'll see how this works with a test print tomorrow, ideally the lettering is rather legible when lit, and basically indistinguishable when not lit.

On a barely related note, does anyone know a good way of making a spring-loaded 18650 battery contact? I have TPU filament and elastic bands at my disposal, honestly I think the elastic bands will work better since they're probably more heat tolerant and they're definitely a lot springier. My plan is to try and spring-load a brass spade terminal against one end of the cell. Wish I had some pogo-pins.

[Anonymous No.2632674]

Are there any non-shit, Klipper compatible, CoreXY printers for under $1000?

[Anonymous No.2632724]

Hey, sorry if this is the wrong place to ask, but i have been thinking...
I'm new to 3d printing and all, i bought an elegoo mars 2 pro for like 50$ a few months ago, to make minis for my DnD game. It has been a lot of fun, the games are great, the minis help a lot, painting is fun and in general i'm having a good time.
The question i have is: is there something like a torrent site for .stl files? I have been through basically every model on cults and thingiverse, and a bunch of paterons free models. They are great, and a lot of what i need is covered. But a lot isn't. And i see a lot of cool .stl fies for sale for a ridiculus price. I'm not paying more for a handfull of files then i did for my printer.
Alternatively, would i be better off learning blender or something? I'm generally a quick study, but it seems like quite a daunting task. How long does it take on average to learn blender, and how long does it take to make a good mini once you are good at the program?
Thanks for any help in advance.

[Anonymous No.2632751]

>>2632088
If it's PETG, and you've had the roll for some time, is it dry? I had lots of trouble with PETG until i got a dry cabinet to print from. My 60% RH basement air would make transparent PETG unprintable after a day being left out.

[Anonymous No.2632764]

Thoughts? Does this actually change much? I thought layer heights would be the more limiting factor

[Anonymous No.2632775]

>>2632764
It's a tiny upgrade, you're going from 28 micron square pixels to ~19x24 micron rectangular pixels.
Apparently the emissivity is a little higher so you can print ever so slightly faster too.

Compare it to the Anycubic Photo Mono M5s and the Elegoo Saturn 3.
It's the same 10.1" 12K display, same Chitu controller, same UV light source, those are whole 12K printers for $400-$500 whereas this is a $250 upgrade for a $650 printer.

[Anonymous No.2632777]

>>2632775
>same Chitu controller
an, have they mentioned anything about upgrades so that prz can be used? Also seems like a good upgrade if youve got a mighty 8k already? plus phrozen seems to be a bit mire reliable

[Anonymous No.2632780]

>>2632777
>have they mentioned anything about upgrades so that prz can be used?
Not sure what you mean by this.
PRZ is a nothing format like the other dozen file extensions Phrozen uses and is supported by UVTools already.

[Anonymous No.2632782]

>>2632780
isnt it good because its open source?

[Anonymous No.2632786]

>>2632782
I don't think you know what open source is.

[Anonymous No.2632789]

>>2632786
prz is open source, ctb isnt, i dont get you

[Anonymous No.2632791]

>>2632789
What difference does it make though? CTB is fully documented and usable already, along with a SHITLOAD of other unnecessary formats. What good does "one more, but it's opensauce" do? Does it have any features that other formats didn't already? What makes it different?

It's a buzzword to catch cash from faggots who respond to it. Because PWS, PW0, PWX, DLP, DL2P, PWMO, PWMA, PWMS, PWMX, PMX2, PWMB, PWSQ, PX6S, PM3, PM3N, PM3M, PM3R, PM5, PM5S, and PWC just weren't good enough for Phrozen.
They come out with a new file format every 5 minutes, it doesn't do anything for the cucksoomer.

[Anonymous No.2632792]

>>2632791
>What good does "one more, but it's opensauce" do?
more slicer options. if its open source and supported by the printer then youre not locked into one slicer. chitu never did release that api

[Anonymous No.2632793]

>>2632792
You're already not locked into one slicer because UVTools exists.

[Anonymous No.2632799]

>>2632792
What was wrong with the other opensource formats? Why not opensource one of their existing dozen or so formats? Maybe they didn't give a fuck about opensource and just wanted to introduce yet another format, like they do with almost every one of their printers?

All of these formats do nothing and help nobody, it's marketing wank.

[Anonymous No.2632802]

>>2632799
well i mean resin in general is fucked up and fragmented. i hope it gets fixed soon

[Anonymous No.2632804]

>>2632802
Chitu stands alone doing all of the heavy lifting for 99% of them.
Shame too, DIYing a resin printer is easy, they're much simpler than FDM printers, and so are the electronics and the software that runs them.
It's sad to me that there aren't generic resin printer controllers being produced by the usual suspects like MKS and BTT.

[Anonymous No.2632810]

Are there any other good places on the internet to discuss 3d printing and share prints and stuff? This general is good for slow discussions, but I also want a forum-esque browsing experience but seeing as the mod on the 3dprinting reddit has gone full retard it seems like everything else is subpar.

[Anonymous No.2632813]

>>2632810
RepRap community, the oldest and the only one of actual note.
Prusa's forum is basically just an emotional support forum for cult members.
That's it, those are the two.

[Anonymous No.2632814]

>>2632810
Just stay on reddit. We don't want you turning our website into yours.

[Anonymous No.2632815]

>>2632814
>using reddit is............. le bad!!!!!
Grow up

[Anonymous No.2632816]

>>2632815
Go back.

[Anonymous No.2632819]

>>2632815
please for the love of god go back

[Anonymous No.2632821]

>>2632815
Your kind is not welcome here, faggot.

[Anonymous No.2632823]

>>2632815
How did you think was going to go, faggot?

[Anonymous No.2632843]

tell me how to easily convert 2d images into a 3d model for free

[Anonymous No.2632909]

>>2632552
And here's a test print, the "TE" are done with two layers, while the "ST" are only one. Came out well I think, but obviously there's not enough light coming out to the further angles. Even with the end of the LED sanded flush. I'll try making the surroundings of the lettering thinner (like 4 layers) else I'll have to go for multiple LEDs. Two layers definitely looks better for the closer letters.

Might print in yellow instead of black, I'm not yet sure. From this test print I think I might get too much light leakage using a lighter colour filament.

>>2632843
convert to svg using inkscape
export to tinkercad
extrude

[Anonymous No.2632930]

Made a clip to keep the butane torch and its hot air/ soldering tip attachment together. I gotta upload it to Printables later.

[Anonymous No.2632933]

>>2632909
Better illumination of outer letters, but still not brilliant. And the bleed-through leaves much to be desired.

[Anonymous No.2632936]

>>2632933
Looks cool. Reminds me of cockpit sim/ automotive displays. IIRC Koenigsegg did something similar in metal where they laser drilled tiny holes in aluminum buttons to get a similar effect.

[Anonymous No.2632943]

Fusion 360 is SUCH a piece of shit for large models.

What can I use that is better than this? Free or cheap?

[Anonymous No.2632945]

>>2632909
>>2632933
Oh that's pretty cool. Consider a radius maybe, first thing that came to mind. You can adjust the radius to better match the spread of the LED.

[Anonymous No.2632947]

>>2632933
Very cool, some kind of diffuser would work very well here in my opinion.

[Anonymous No.2632951]

I've gone for a flawed implementation that's a combination of the two tests. Thicker walls than >>2632933, but thinner than >>2632909. It's not a critical application, so long as you can see it lit up and have read it at least once, it's fine. Just an overload indicator. The other three ones I've just converted to conventional text, with little invisible dot indicators next to each one. Because you kinda need to see which one is which anyhow, due to the switch that toggles between the three.

It's for a milli-ohm meter, with three settings for 1A, 100mA, and 10mA.

>>2632947
>some kind of diffuser
My thinking also, but it's too cramped (just 10mm between the PCB and the front panel). Having some white filament to mess about with would probably be a good idea, the reflections off the internals would likely help with the viewing angle. A multi-filament solution might be ideal.

[Anonymous No.2632956]

3d printing feels so fucking good

[Anonymous No.2632963]

>>2632951
>multi-filament solution might be ideal
I was going to suggest adding a layer of green to it to control the bled. IDK if red to reflect it back or green to absorb it would be better.
You could consider using colored paper cut to size and glued inside it to have the same effect.

[Anonymous No.2632965]

>>2632956
yes it does

>>2632963
Yeah coloured paper or a diffusor sheet or something inserted in there would probably help, same for painting the inside of the cone white, or covering the thicker parts of the letters with aluminium foil. Doable with glue and some time, but likely a finicky mess.

[Anonymous No.2632967]

>>2632552
>making a spring-loaded 18650 battery contacts
I've tried bending contacts some out of scrap copper and wasn't satisfied with the results/reliability. Unironically probably just best to buy a battery holder, or if you have some old toys/shitty appliances, steal the contacts from AA(A) battery-powered gizmos.

[Anonymous No.2632968]

>>2632674

build a rat rig

[Anonymous No.2632969]

>>2632552
>>2632933
IDK if it's possible in your application, but you might get better results just gluing on a separate small sheet of acrylic that you've stenciled/spray painted on black mask to get clear/crisp lettering. Or maybe even just leave the vinyl mask on the acrylic sheet to make it really opaque.

[Anonymous No.2632975]

Klipper bros, I'm trying to set resonance compensation on my modified Ender 3 Pro.
While the results I got on Y axis are amazing, I can't get noticeable improvement on my X axis. The frequency should be around 36 Hz by my measurements of the bands, but it all looks not great and same on v.high accelerations. I understand that in realistic printing this will be less noticeable, but I do want to dial this in.
I even resorted to finding the frequency by sweeping from 0 to 55 with a tower.
Maybe it's the limit? I've tried zv, mzv, ev shapers, no difference.

[Anonymous No.2633012]

>>2632724
You'll be better served by the /3dpg/ on /tg/
And yeah there is stl piracy, but it mostly happens on Trannygram

[Anonymous No.2633016]

>>2632967
I want the bats to pop in from one end, instead of from the side/back. Could maybe still get away with stealing battery contacts for that, but it will make things a tad bulkier. Also the requirement of having a battery balance wire makes things tougher. I know I don't want to use copper or brass itself as a spring due to work-hardening concerns, but the physical placement of the contact such that it can't get free, and of the wire such that it doesn't work harden, are rather tricky. I certainly see the benefits of a metal spring as both the contact and the force-provider.

I see some people are using 3D printed compliant mechanisms, otherwise they're buying spring-loaded battery contacts and just using those. PETG would probably hold up as a spring, but I don't think PLA will. For this project I think I'll just use conventional 18650 battery holders, and for future use I'll buy some of those contacts. Maybe I'll add a cool hinging mechanism so the bats pop in at an angle.

[Anonymous No.2633017]

>>2633016

[Anonymous No.2633047]

I installed the pt1000 temp sensor, and switched the temp probe type to 1047 in marlin and recompiled, works perfect no issues. I also installed a copper volcano heater block, I bet I can print nylon now.

[Anonymous No.2633050]

>>2633016
>compliant contacts
those are pretty slick, though honestly the more shit I make, the less of a "3D printing purist" I'm becoming. I respect making everything 3D printed for the sake of making it 3D printed, but if you want the best performance, use the best material.

[Anonymous No.2633068]

Worth buying a resin printer for figs/minis/diorama if I've no artistic or sculpting talent at all? I feel like I've just enough autism to prevent me from enjoying 90% of the butterface figs I see available. Am I just looking the wrong places or are quality models commission and vidya rips only?

[Anonymous No.2633069]

Anyone with a kevinakasam low profile dual z belt mod? I would like to know the added height to the printer, don't think it'll fit in my enclosure with the mod.

[Anonymous No.2633070]

>>2633069
forgot to mention ender 3

[Anonymous No.2633133]

>>2632815
Fuck off and stay fucked off

[Anonymous No.2633173]

I ordered a few arduinos from the official website yesterday for some of my super epic 3D printing projects I'm about to make, and they arrived today. One day shipping from Italy. What the fuck.

[Anonymous No.2633195]

>>2633173
they know a guy

[Anonymous No.2633232]

I bought the saturn 2 that has a carbon filter, does this mean I can place it on my room? Just moved and my garage is hot as fuck and dont want to spend on a cooling or ventilation system at the moment.

Im new, hearing resin printers should not be put on living spaces.

[Anonymous No.2633234]

>>2633232
Nvm i canceled my order, Ill get into 3d printing when I figure out how to ventilate and cool my garage.

[Anonymous No.2633251]

Man PAHT-CF prints with PAHT-CF support is fucking gnarly.

Can't wait for that support-G to arrive.

[Anonymous No.2633292]

>>2633232
I keep my printer next to my bed. You don't need to treat your printer like it's some precision machinery.

[Anonymous No.2633323]

>>2633232
Depends on the resin if smell will be an issue. You probably don't want to be huffing liquid plastic 24/7 though. Resin printing likes heat, your garage should be fine. The issue you'll have instead is low temps in the winter. I just go dormant on resin printing until March or April, but you can buy or make a simple heater for you printer as well.

[Anonymous No.2633378]

My palms are sweaty.

[Anonymous No.2633394]

>>2633378
you're palms will blast sweat like spiderman's webshooters when you find there's a component missing

naw bro, you'll be fine

[Anonymous No.2633409]

After fucking with this hunk of mithril for a while, I am 100% sure PAHT-CF would be useful as a firearm component. I'm not sure how, but it's definitely strong enough.

[Anonymous No.2633416]

Anyone have experience printing some small model life size? Videos touching on common problems?

[Anonymous No.2633420]

>>2633416

dont ask to ask

https://dontasktoask.com/

[Anonymous No.2633425]

>>2633394
I'm not fine. I put it together. Followed all the instructions. Leveled the bed. Did the paper check. And now at the print head feeding check step I get filament spaghetti. I can't even move the thing to get the webbed filament out. It's stuck.

[Anonymous No.2633433]

>>2633420
I don't have a specific question, just something I want to try soon. Now what?

[Anonymous No.2633450]

Where would you recommend I hire someone for 3d modeling

[Anonymous No.2633451]

>>2633450
find some schmuck on fiverr and hope for the best

[Anonymous No.2633454]

>>2633450
What king of models?

[Anonymous No.2633457]

I did it!

[Anonymous No.2633458]

>>2633457

[Anonymous No.2633465]

>>2633451
What would be a good rate for the pajeet to copy something from a videogame

[Anonymous No.2633493]

>>2633465
Just rip it from the game jfc its not that hard.

[Anonymous No.2633506]

Any tips on round holes not being round in CF nylon?

[Anonymous No.2633565]

My starship and the real one have one thing in common at the moment
Both have never made it to orbit

[Anonymous No.2633575]

>>2633323
Did couple tests, opened a bit of the garage leading outside and placed a fan from my house to the garage and after about an hour it felt comfortable and the temperature was just 79f instead of the near 95f I was experiencing with everything closed up
Built a small space with some curtains and shade in case someone decides to fully open the garage because sunlight will enter.
Feels like Im prepared, time to buy my printer again.

[Anonymous No.2633600]

>>2633565
Lol, but that does look good.

[Anonymous No.2633604]

>>2633600
It looks just alright IMO
Could have been printed slower for more shine, used too much glue and text up top didn't slice right.
For the purpose of looking cool and giving perspective (when I get around to printing other models the same scale) it's great. For 1/144 it's huge

[Anonymous No.2633612]

>>2633604
>1/144
Would be cool to put some HG Gundams around it for scale

[Anonymous No.2633643]

Why does the cost scale so much when you want a bigger buildplate? Like the Neptune 3 Pro is $300 while the Neptune 3 Max is $470, but the only difference is that it's larger? Surely the increase in materials, which is mostly aluminium or whatever, doesn't warrant a $170 increase?

[Anonymous No.2633650]

>>2633643
You need to make the printer more rigid to have the same specs. It's a square-cube law thing. A printer scaled to twice the size has structural members that weigh 8 times as much, but with only four times the cross-sectional area, so aren't as rigid. To move as fast and with the same quality, you need to make the parts that much beefier to counteract this. An ender-style build (flimsy bed carriage, self-supporting extrusions with no diagonal members, single Z screw) just doesn't cut it at larger scales.

[Anonymous No.2633658]

My goal for today is to install Klipper.

[Anonymous No.2633660]

>>2633658
>forgot image

[Anonymous No.2633689]

>>2628389
after doing a g34 gantry align the machine homes z, but if the nozzle is on the right side it will shove itself into the bed. other than outright disabling HOME_AFTER_G34, is there a way to make it do a regular g28 to home all axes (instead of 'g28 z') that way the nozzle will be guaranteed off the bed, or no?

[Anonymous No.2633707]

>Creality Sonic pad only works with the Ender 3 Neo V2 and not the base Nero despite being practically the same
Well there goes my cheap and easy klipper upgrade
When the fuck will rpi's exist for cheap again?
This may sound stupid too but has any one ran klipper on a de-10 nano? If I could repurpose my mister for when I want to print that would be nice

[Anonymous No.2633715]

>>2633660
>>2633658
Update: it's not going well.

[Anonymous No.2633758]

>>2633715
why not anon? Is it a mini skr e3 v3?

[Anonymous No.2633761]

>>2633758
BTT Pi v1.2 with the Neptune 3 Pro. I can't update the printer firmware to the Klipper one. It gets stuck on "updating firmware". I'm sure I'm using the correct bin file with the correct naming convention too. I mean I just took it from feral engineer's github. It has to be the right one.

[Anonymous No.2633773]

>>2633012
Thanks. I don't have telegram, nor will i ever make one, so that's kind of a bummer, but i'll ask around over there.
As long as i have you here, what is your opinion on blender? Is it worth learning? Or maybe some other cad program?

[Anonymous No.2633779]

>the vacuum former i built is now too small for my projects

[Anonymous No.2633795]

It's over...

[Anonymous No.2633805]

>>2633689
You need to configure your firmware correctly so your homing sequence can be made safe.

[Anonymous No.2633833]

Is there a proper Klipper guide on how to set up my printer for printing? I leveled the bed. Set my offset with the paper. Started my print. My nozzle started drilling into my print bed. I don't understand why.

[Anonymous No.2633844]

>>2633795
lol I think they make stickers you can put on it

the glue stick layer is also to protect the surface, and you have to let the glue-stick dry first btw

[Anonymous No.2633846]

>>2633844
I didn't use glue. It straight up drilled into the bed anyways. Glue wouldn't have saved it. I heard a loud rattle noise before I stopped the printer. I literally don't understand why. It's not supposed to go that far down.

[Anonymous No.2633910]

>>2633795

[Anonymous No.2633913]

I made a remote to direct adapter to gain access to the fancier heatbreaks, does anybody think the metal tube will be a problem?

[Anonymous No.2633933]

>>2633910
Help me...

[Anonymous No.2633939]

thank you to the anon who showed me tree supports in a pic he posted, reminded me that was an option I wanted to try.

print starting now, 5 hrs to go in PAHT-CF on a Bambu x1c.

[Anonymous No.2633941]

>>2633795
define what you are trying to do, and what you are doing

[Anonymous No.2633942]

>>2633941
I'm running Klipper from a sbc on my brand new MP3. Followed a youtube guide. Leveled the bad. Set my offset with the paper. Started printing a test cube. The nozzle drilled into the print bed and ruined it before I could stop it. It's all scratched up and fucked up and I don't know why. About to cry. I just ordered a new one...

[Anonymous No.2633947]

Like isn't the entire point of the offset paper test so the nozzle isn't too far away or too close to the print bed? It literally rammed into the bed. I heard a rattle before it was too late...

[Anonymous No.2633953]

>>2633707
There's some new single board computers similar to raspberry pi, I'm lucky enough to have a raspi 3b+ but if I didn't I'd probably go with this.
https://www.amazon.com/Libre-Computer-AML-S905X-CC-Potato-64-bit/dp/B074P6BNGZ/ref=asc_df_B074P6BNGZ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309776868400&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3304801097788567844&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1025846&hvtargid=pla-593018028874&psc=1

[Anonymous No.2633960]

>>2633913
I assembled it and put a soldering iron set to 360c on the titanium end the cool side stayed at 40c after 10 min without a fan, the aluminum bowden tube was 36c at the exit of the heat sink. Guess I'll give it a try next time I take the printer apart.

[Anonymous No.2633961]

>>2633953
Nice one
How complex is this for some one who can actually follow instructions btw?

[Anonymous No.2633962]

>>2633953
God damn these are twice the price in the UK

[Anonymous No.2633998]

>>2633961
I got octoprint running zero issues on my raspi 3b+, just follow I think CNC kitchen's tutorial for raspi, there's even a way to run raspi on an old android phone but heads up having a cellphone plugged in and running octoprint constantly will eventually kill your phone if you print pretty regularly. Definitely get a cheap raspi style camera and print a z-axis bracket to hold it so you can stream your octoprint with octo app.

[Anonymous No.2634000]

>>2633998
Idk why I kept calling it raspi, I meant octoprint.

[Anonymous No.2634005]

>>2633998
I wanted to run klipper on it
I got my old phone running octroprint but it wouldn't connect for some reason, and it was feeding power into the printer which concerned me. I need to get a data only cable for it

[Anonymous No.2634013]

I don't know why but I really dislike the prusa guy. There's something about his stupid face that makes me want to stay away from all prusa products.

[Anonymous No.2634030]

>>2633942
well it's not worth crying over, I can promise that.

You can do a lot of stuff with even a simple printer like an ender 3, but I didn't really know that back when I was using one.

The first upgrade I would make once you get it dialed in is to change to a 0.4 or 0.6 nozzle for faster prints. The 0.2 resolution is really not that necessary.

this: >>2631770
was allegedly printed with a 0.6 in PLA-CF and looks great. A hardened steel 0.4 or 0.6 nozzle will let you do carbon fiber filaments faster once you can.

Heated bed is basically a necessity, and for PLA on many surfaces you will need to apply a layer of glue stick (then let it dry!) before printing, it will protect the print surface. But I suppose most of all, find a good manual or source of information for printing the material that you are trying to print. My Bambu has RFID in the spools that tells it the settings to use, I wish other printers had that feature.

[Anonymous No.2634050]

i don't know why I assumed holes would be dimensionally accurate.

Just bought a 100 piece number drill set to help finish out the small ones.

[Anonymous No.2634055]

>>2634030
I don't understand how to dial it in if that didn't work though. There was no reason for the nozzle to drill into the bed like that.

[Anonymous No.2634070]

My klipper installl broke out of the blue, despite not touching anything while it was working.

Dunno what happened. Pi boots up just fine, but the MCU is unable to connect. I tried reflashing the board (SKR Mini e3v3) with a freshly compiled klipper firmware. It appears to have been a success because the file on the SDcard changed to FIRMWARE.CUR.

Next I ran ls /dev/serial/by-id/* and the output is ls: cannot access '/dev/serial/by-id/*': No such file or directory

This is weird, because this used to work. Fried board maybe?

[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32g0b1xx_290042001850425938323120-if00

[Anonymous No.2634074]

>>2634070

Did you have a usb cable plugged in when you ran that command? It will only show up if it detects a usb cable plugged in, *I THINK*

If usb cable was plugged in and you still didn't receive a serial id then SSH in and check /dev directory
>ls /dev
and check if there is ttyUSB or something like that. If you see that in there, change your

>serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32g0b1xx_290042001850425938323120-if00
to
>serial: /dev/ttyUSB or whatever you find for your usb.

See if it connects, this would be a temporary work around until you can figure out how to get usb serial ID

my guess is that you didn't choose the usb serial communication when you were setting up the firmware, just a guess though.

[Anonymous No.2634085]

have 3 spools of PLA-CF what should I print with them?

Was considering a carry case for a small electric device I have.

[Anonymous No.2634086]

>>2634085
A rigid toothy piranha fleshlight

[Anonymous No.2634087]

>>2634086
is that all the hype about flexible filaments was all about?

how flexible is PETG anyway?

[Anonymous No.2634094]

>>2634055
Make sure the Z axis limit switch isn't too low.

On the Ender 3 if you set the limit switch where you want your Z-0 to be, then everything works fine.

Maybe on yours you have to adjust the Z limit switch to match the zero height you want it to have?

[Anonymous No.2634106]

>>2634087
Not very flexible. Its pretty hardy in layers but soft when thin . Actially more like its not brittle

[Anonymous No.2634110]

hmm the tree style supports reduce print time quite a bit depending on model and orientation, pretty cool

[Anonymous No.2634164]

RC car racer dude here again, time for the next round of upgrades after my printed rear hubs have proven themselves over several long race weekends and a bunch of single-day races. Working on a conversion kit to adapt newer generation front suspension geometry to my last generation cars. This is the lower half of a front shock tower that’s needed to make the kit happen. Definitely my toughest reverse-engineering job yet as there are a bunch of bolt holes in critically important locations, as well as the upper link inner pivot adjustment inserts which set the geo for the upper suspension arms.

[Anonymous No.2634167]

>>2634164
Here’s the inserts in question, to my utter amazement I got all of the measurements right on the first try so now I can move on to setting the actual shock position on the upper half of the tower. Sadly the final product will likely not be a printed part as I doubt even glass or carbon fiber nylon would stand up to nitro off-road racing, but it’s still super helpful to be able to print new prototypes quickly before I sink the dough on the aluminum final part.

[Anonymous No.2634173]

I wish Fusion 360 wasn't so fucking shitty.

[Anonymous No.2634174]

>>2634173
sitting here just waiting for it to become responsive again

unbelievably shitty for working with models imported, not even that complicated ones.

[Anonymous No.2634176]

>>2634174
Funny enough I was reasonably impressed with how well my 11 year old pos laptop was running Fusion last night.

[Anonymous No.2634178]

>>2634176
yeah... the problems start when the model becomes reasonably complex or wasn't created in Fusion to begin with.

[Anonymous No.2634181]

>>2634176
also it's pretty obvious that it's single threaded, because even when it freezes for minutes at a time it still doesn't use even a fraction of the CPU that it could (nor GPU), which means it's probably only using one core of a modern CPU.

Fucking embarrassing.

[Anonymous No.2634182]

Please someone tell me a better alternative to Fusion 360 for editing 3d models imported from STL/STEP/etc.etc.

[Anonymous No.2634185]

>>2634167
>>2634164
are you able to print dimensionally accurate round holes that run horizontally in a part?

because I think I need at a minimum a smaller nozzle to make them good. Might switch to 0.4 or something.

[Anonymous No.2634191]

>>2634182
>editing 3d models imported from STL/STEP/etc
I have not worked with any software that handles that shit well. You are better off taking measurements from the model and making a new one

[Anonymous No.2634195]

>>2634185
Horizontally oriented holes are still kinda meh, I use a drill bit to clean em up. They work sort of but if they need a slip fit then not really. The holes in this part are all vertical from the build plate though so no issue, I can go down to whatever tiny size I need with my .4 nozzle, mostly 3 and 4mm.

[Anonymous No.2634205]

>>2634164
>>2634167

Fuck yeah anon, shit looks good.

[Anonymous No.2634234]

Why do some 3D prints print a thin outline around the perimeter of the object? What is that thing actually called?

[Anonymous No.2634244]

>>2634234
It's called a brim.

[Anonymous No.2634245]

>>2634244
What does it do?

[Anonymous No.2634266]

wonder if this will print well? as in, without supports.

[Anonymous No.2634268]

Since filament can become brittle from improper storage, does it stand to reason that any final printed product would also be brittle if kept in similar conditions?

[Anonymous No.2634269]

>>2634266
if the bridging is alright sure

[Anonymous No.2634271]

>>2634269
I've got a 6 degree unsupported overhang

[Anonymous No.2634273]

>>2634271
Actually at 0.16mm layer height that's only 1.5mm overhang at a time, so it's probably fine. The overhang itself won't be visible.

[Anonymous No.2634274]

>>2634245
I assume it's for seeing if your bed is leveled properly before starting the model. I usually make adjustments as it's printing the brim to get it printing at the right height.

[Anonymous No.2634275]

>>2634195
yeah I figured, I ordered a 100 piece number drill set that should come close to most of the small holes I have around here.

[Anonymous No.2634278]

>>2634266
looks like it, what filament btw?

I have taken to using Support G with my PLA-CF prints, it's pretty nice. I was able to print a tiny flimsy thing that I ended up breaking 2x without using the special support material that breaks away easier.

[Anonymous No.2634279]

>>2634278
ehh, not support G just the PLA support filament, sorry

[Anonymous No.2634286]

>>2634234
it's called a skirt and it serves as a way to give you an early warning of poor material flow, bad bed level, or poor first layer adhesion, so if it prints fine, the rest should be okay
a brim however is like a wide skirt that attaches to the model being printed, to lessen the likelihood of the model from peeling off midprint

[Anonymous No.2634291]

>>2634244
This is wrong.
>>2634286
This is right.

[Anonymous No.2634307]

hmm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6S1qt2wiuIw

>hollow objects, increase wall count instead of infill
>otherwise they are nigh exactly the same

[Anonymous No.2634314]

>>2634307
The infill is basically just for supporting the roof
I would say anything less than 70% infill provides little to no strength increase.

[Anonymous No.2634335]

What are those "plant based" resins actually made from? Are they less toxic than normal ones?

[Anonymous No.2634339]

my printer wants me to develop a sounding fetish, what the fuck?

[Anonymous No.2634375]

>>2634234
I use it to purge and clean the nozzle before the first layer starts.

[Anonymous No.2634406]

>>2634339
that's hot. do what the printer says.

[Anonymous No.2634421]

most of the handpainted figures on youtube look like absolute garbage compared to airbrush painting.
Might jump straight into airbrush.

[Anonymous No.2634480]

Is there a matte pla+?

[Anonymous No.2634512]

>>2634480
Polymaker pla pro is more matte than duramic pla+ and esun pla+, still not like their matte filament but a nice middle ground.

[Anonymous No.2634520]

>>2634278
PLA, though I may consider PETG.

[Anonymous No.2634522]

omfg I bought a cheap pair of calipers on Amazon

they are made of "engineering plastic" and only measure in increments of 10 thousandths, they also have a bright visible gap between the inner measurement hooks on the end.

What the actual fuck Chyna... Shit is getting WORSE.

[Anonymous No.2634527]

>>2634522
>Cheap
>Plastic
What did you expect?

[Anonymous No.2634528]

>>2634522
>buy bottom of the barrel chinesium tools, plastic at that
>be surprised it's shit
bruh, just walk down to your local hardware store

[Anonymous No.2634531]

>>2634522 Why? Good brand name calipers cost only 25$.

[Anonymous No.2634535]

>>2634531
don't need good calipers, just calipers.

I expected the usual chinesium shit ones with sloppy deburring and grinding, instead got even shittier ones.

[Anonymous No.2634538]

when is uniformation coming out with a 12k sla

[Anonymous No.2634539]

>>2634535
Even harbor freight's $8 chinese shitty calipers are more than accurate enough for anything 3d printing wise. I used to do a lot of machining and tested the cheapo vs. mitutoyo and besides the cheap ones feeling cheap and shitty it was accurate to within a thousandth of an inch almost every time.

[Anonymous No.2634543]

>>2634539
I am modeling physical parts in order to 3d print stuff for them.

I wonder how much a 3d scanner costs these days. if too much, might just hire someone to scan it.

[Anonymous No.2634544]

best advantage of the enclosure and heated bed is preventing part warping, isn't it?

I wish I could print nylon-CF like I print PLA-CF, that would be amazing quality. Any tips for printing Nylon?

[Anonymous No.2634550]

>>2628389
Is it possible to over-dry filament?

[Anonymous No.2634551]

>>2634550
no, but it's possible to melt it.

[Anonymous No.2634555]

>>2634535
I got these, quality is better than expected and measurements are repeatable.

Kynup Digital Caliper, Calipers 6 Inch Measuring Tool with Stainless Steel, IP54 Splash Proof Protection Design, Easy Switch from Inch Metric Fraction, Large LCD Screen (150mm) https://a.co/d/9DRxoC0

[Anonymous No.2634630]

Is there a reason why a controlled temperature water bath would not be a good idea for annealing, assuming you somehow kept the printed part dry?

[Anonymous No.2634632]

>>2634630
sounds good, but with a fluid that won't be absorbed like water would.

[Anonymous No.2634634]

>>2634632
I was thinking of just vacuum packing the whole part in a bag with fine grained powder

[Anonymous No.2634676]

>>2634630
works fine, look into sous vide machines, only issue is that the water can crush the part if it gets too soft, since its squeezing into the bag, so you will need to weigh the bag down, i used pie weights, and filled the empty space with mostly cornflour and plaster, it stayed dry, but the chalkiness help its shape better than my tests with sand or salt.

[Anonymous No.2634681]

>>2629058
That looks great! Would you be willing to share the stl?

[Anonymous No.2634688]

>>2634539
My $15 cheap verniers have a 0 offset of 0.26mm or so. Obviously this doesn't happen with digital callipers.

[Anonymous No.2634708]

>>2634543
My POP2 was around 550€ with taxes.
Sadly I've not found that many uses for it. I was thinking of scanning my head for a bust that i'd cast out of bronze with lost PLA casting

[Anonymous No.2634739]

>>2634708
>lost PLA casting
I'd recommend using PVA filament instead, but that shit's surprisingly expensive.

[Anonymous No.2634816]

>>2628389
Hello /3dpg/, another hobby handy man here. I am looking for some material that's relatively stiff (pla strength is basically enough) and can endure 40C (up to three hours a day) without critical deformation for an angle piece?
I already got a PLA part from the library and it did good until it got heated up several times.
I don't want to shell out for metal, as i need several pieces.
MJF PA12 seems to be a suitable and affordable solution, but i'm not sure if that's already overkill territory, as i'm frankly already overwhelmed by the cheer volume of choices.

[Anonymous No.2634819]

>>2634816
High temp PLA, should be stable up to 90 degrees Celsius, but a bit pricey. Nowhere near CF-Nylon though.

[Anonymous No.2634834]

>>2634816
PLA-CF has the highest stiffness out of any babby materials.
>without critical deformation for an angle piece?
in lieu of more details, (is it a ninety-degree angle?) it's not clear
How do you know it's 40 degrees?
What are the consequences of failure?
If it's a right angle, buy furniture shit or aluminum channel.
If it's actually important and has to be additive, you would use PEKK.
For 'just' 40 C, you could use ASA. Make the part bigger to increase stiffness.

[Anonymous No.2634847]

I have been considering buying a 3d printer and had some questions.

1.) will a 3d printer save me money/pay for itself over time considering I do a lot of /diy/ stuff and almost never pay people to do or fix stuff for me
2.) How much does the plastic cost? Like how much would it cost me to print something like pic related in plastic
3.) whats the best bang for buck price range? I dont really have a budget and could spend $1000+ if I wanted to but most things have a point of diminishing returns

[Anonymous No.2634852]

>>2634847
1) if your able to model, even simple things, it will pay for itself faster. there are those that only find models to print, but real /diy/ers can find unlimited use cases
2) it ranges, i have to local suppliers and the cheapest i get through them is 25 leaf bucks/kg. pic looks like ~150g
3) best bang for buck currently is the bambu p1p for $699

[Anonymous No.2634856]

>>2634834
Nothing "critical", they just hold two plates to a shelf where storage is dumped against. So worst case is a mess in the basement. The problem is an old compressor which creeps some heat when doing a big run. After the first PLA part failed I just put a thermometer there to see how warm it actually gets in that corner and it capped around 41C and stayed there for a while cause there isn't much ventilation. Angle pieces are slightly above 55degree, that's why it is fun.

>>2634819
Seems to be the same as ASA and a bit cheaper than Carbon at my local shop.

[Anonymous No.2634879]

I've got some inland PLA+. Is there a way to print it out so it's not shiny?

[Anonymous No.2634880]

>>2634879
Is it in a black plastic spool or a brown cardboard spool

[Anonymous No.2634881]

>>2634880
Black plastic one

[Anonymous No.2634884]

>>2634881
well its usual state is to be shiny then. You'd have to buy a matte color or actually print it wrong for it to not have a shiny surface

[Anonymous No.2634886]

>>2634884
Well I'm looking to make it not shiny. I'd like the increased durability of PLA+ but for my particular application I think a matte finish would pop better. Am I just sol or is matte pla good enough?

[Anonymous No.2634888]

>>2634886
sol
matte plastics usually print shittier because they have to put stuff in to diffuse the light away. the shiny comes from the plastic liquifying properly and flowing correctly. if you have a shiny material that becomes matte, its from printing way too hot for it to cool properly or printing too fast for it to flow properly

[Anonymous No.2634890]

I'm really about to cry.

[Anonymous No.2634895]

>>2634681
prusa slicer wont let me export to STL with boolean cuts (multiple negative cuts intersecting multiple positive parts)
i can try and recreate the file step by step, though i dont know if thatll work. or ill tell you how to do the modifications yourself.
(or someone tells me how i can fix this error because i cant imagine this being the intended outcome of exporting a part with a negative cut)

[Anonymous No.2634897]

>>2634888
Well I guess I'll have to deal with it then lol. Thanks mate.

[Anonymous No.2634906]

>>2634886
>I'd like the increased durability of PLA+
then buy inland tough PLA
.
.
.
... u friggin moron

[Anonymous No.2634909]

>>2634890
whats wrong king

[Anonymous No.2634913]

>>2634895
>someone tells me how i can fix this error
sure,
-open up fusion 360 and paste or draw the outline for the shape,
-draw the side profile of the bowl on the portapottys
--revolve it
-extrude the outline to the revolved surface
if you don't understand any of the steps above then just post a screenshot as far as you got.
you'll need a buttdesk 360 license, a ruler and the headphones. if you don't understand how to get those things then find a rope or a bag and commit sudoku.

[Anonymous No.2634914]

>>2634909
All of the parts for my super epic and super secret project are here, aside from the stepper motor. All that's left for me is to print everything else. It's just that I still haven't figured Klipper out after THAT happened. My new print bed is arriving tomorrow and I'm not ready to start printing. I'm really scared I'll ruin it again.