Sqtddtot stupid questions that don’t deserve their own thread

[Anonymous No.2624298]

Don’t see one.

The elbow on picrel keeps popping apart. I thought the top of the elbow would be threaded but there is nothing there. How are these supposed to work?

[Anonymous No.2624319]

You probably either need a new one/parts and fix whatever is causing it too much strain which broke it the first time.

[Anonymous No.2624323]

Is there anyway to test joints besides simply turning the water on? Because I don't want to have to open the wall and fix the bathroom shower piping I installed again.

[Anonymous No.2624368]

>>2624319
It’s not strain really. It’s as if a cap or something popped off, so the pieces fit together but after a few uses it pops apart again.

[Anonymous No.2624369]

>>2624368
Try looking for a brand name and model. Then contact the company for the missing part. Sorry I can't be more help.

[Anonymous No.2624420]

>>2624298
>keeps popping apart
by "keeps", do you mean it just starting doing that
or has it always done so since installation
because by the looks of it, it was mismointed
the wall saddle is waaaay too high, which puts the arm at a downward angle
the mechanism should basically be flat
>there is nothing there
it's supposed to pop off when you thrust the arm up
did you think jamming little blocks of wood under the door was the "right" way to keep these open?

[Anonymous No.2624422]

>>2624323
Can you put an end cap on whatever stub you left to install the show head too, test it, and then cut that off when you install the shower head? Or if any part is threaded at the end, just put a cap with matching thread.

[Anonymous No.2624436]

What is this adapter/connector thing on the back of my shower unit? There is an identical broken one for the toe tester in the unit but I don't know where to get a replacement part

[Anonymous No.2624468]

>>2624420
It’s been fine for 10 years that we’ve owned the place. I see what you mean about it not being mounted flat though. Thanks. I think there is just a bolt missing on top based on some other designs I’ve looked up.

[Anonymous No.2624476]

When do you use a drill vs. an impact driver? t. zoomer who owns neither

[Anonymous No.2624483]

What's the best brand of LEDs if I need to replace some 3-way lamps? Don't care about or want smart home integration

[Anonymous No.2624486]

>>2624476
use a drill to make a hole or to stir paint. use a driver to drive screws or for nuts and bolts. what are you stupid or something.

[Anonymous No.2624488]

>>2624486
All my dad ever owned was a drill

[Anonymous No.2624489]

>>2624488
What did he do with it?

[Anonymous No.2624500]

>>2624489
Built a deck, assembled furniture, used as a powered screwdriver, made holes in the wall

[Anonymous No.2624509]

>>2624500
>made holes in the wall
My white boyfriend does that and he doesn't even own a drill

[Anonymous No.2624510]

>>2624323
>>2624436
what's a toe tester?

[Anonymous No.2624518]

>>2624510
This thing, I don't even use it but it being broken still irritates me to no end

[Anonymous No.2624519]

>>2624468
>It’s been fine for 10 years
okay
I'd bet it's a pin and not a bolt
if there's a hole in the post, you can pass a heavy paper clip through there
or a trailer hitch pin

[Anonymous No.2624583]

>>2624500
Only thing that makes me think "an impact would have helped" is the deck, but if it worked for him it'll work for you

[Anonymous No.2624585]

Not a question, I just want to say that electrical engineers are fucking insufferable.
With as much autism as I have to deal with with them, I'm more of a tard wrangler than a foreman at this point.

[Anonymous No.2624633]

>>2624518
...this just leaves me with even more questions. What on earth is the purpose of that thing??

[Anonymous No.2624634]

>>2624633
Nigger guess. Look at the picture and fathom all the possibilities of what it does and its intended usage. I bet you can figure it out.

[Anonymous No.2624693]

>>2624585
Look at the kind of person who goes EE. No surprises there.

[Anonymous No.2624698]

>>2624298
There might have been a clip holding it together, it's obviously missing a needed piece. You could spend a bunch of time trying to rig it back together or you could just get a new one

>>2624323
Don't put the wall up until you're done testing. Duh.

>>2624436
Start with local plumbing supply house

>>2624476
Drill for easy tasks on soft materials, impact driver for forcing things into harder materials. Hammer drill for making holes in concrete, stone, etc.

>>2624585
Electrical engineers are the bottom tier of engineers. Every one I've ever met believed he was the smartest person in the world despite having no clue how things work.

>>2624633
You use your toes to measure the water temp before you get in.

[Anonymous No.2624699]

>>2624585
True story:
>sent to do a furnace clean & check
>husband and wife, both electrical engineers
>everything checks out fine
>later that night he calls for emergency service and says he has no heat
>I drive all the way back over there wondering what I forgot or fucked up
>thermostat display is blank
>open battery cover
>two brand new batteries inside
>the electrical engineer put the batteries in wrong, both positives touching instead of in series
>call him over and ask what he thinks is wrong
>he doesn't see it
>the wife comes over
>she doesn't see it either
>flip the battery and everything works
>made him pay the service call charge since it was his fault

[Anonymous No.2624713]

>>2624476
I prefer drills since they don't go DAKKA DAKKA DAKKA all the damn time, but impacts are superior for screwing into objects at odd angles. Don't need nearly the same pressure a drill does.
Impacts won't wrench your hand/wrist either if you aren't paying attention.

IMO a drill is required, but an impact makes life a hell of a lot easier in many cases.

My favorites are drill presses, rotohammers, and a hole hawg

[Anonymous No.2624751]

Why is there a solid metal cable running from my water shutoff to my circuit breaker? Can I just tear it out because the previous home owner just slapped it in with absolutely no care for how it looked, literally tore a hole in a finished ceiling to fish it through to the breaker

[Anonymous No.2624754]

>>2624298

Are you seeing it pop apart? Or are you finding it disconnected? If that door is used to bring stuff through, likely someone is just disconnecting it so they can leave the door open and bring stuff in

[Anonymous No.2624758]

>>2624751
You could replace it and make it look neater, but it should absolutely be there. It is keeping the water pipes in your house grounded. This will help ensure a good gfci trip in the sink or tub. If you house was built in the right time frame it might be using the water main as its primary ground electrode.

[Anonymous No.2624777]

>>2624323
I saw a plumber use compressed air to pressurize the pipes to check for leaks. Then he put a pressure gauge on the end and let it sit for like an hour. Doubt you can do that if you have fixtures installed though.

[Anonymous No.2624779]

>>2624751
Unless you have a long ass metal rod also in the ground next to your circuit breaker box also connected via thicc grounding wire, don’t remove it. This is houses used to be grounded. To remove it, you’ll need another grounding rod

[Anonymous No.2624780]

>>2624699
That was a great story. That's exactly what I needed to hear. And good for you for making them try to figure out what was wrong and for charging them. Fucking brainlets.

[Anonymous No.2624782]

>>2624758
>>2624779
Dang, I was hoping it was just another case of the previous guy being stupid, because there's been some of those that even I could notice. Plan B was to build a bookshelf around this when a cabinet to allow access to the shutoff, is that an even stupider thing to do?

[Anonymous No.2624784]

>>2624782
It is generally not wise to block emergency shutoff devices

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2624828]

>>2624476
Drills are for drilling holes with a drill bit.

Impact drivers are for driving screws into said holes using a driver bit.

You can drive with a drill, but it puts more strain on your wrist and the drill has less power to drive. And you can drill with an impact driver if you have the right hex shank bits, but it’s a little awkward. If you can only have one, I would go drill because a drill is better at driving than a driver is at drilling. But considering a drill with one battery is often $99, and a drill plus impact plus 2 batteries is often $149, I would spend the extra $50 so you don’t waste time switching bits all the time.

[Anonymous No.2624998]

I have the flood light in pic rel but want to add a motion sensor with day/night detection to turn if off during the day. the company (RAB) sells one (bottom) but it's $60. how can I go about finding an alternative that doesn't cost as much?

[Anonymous No.2625009]

I made an aquarium stand for a new tank I'm starting, but I forgot I live in a shithole and the building is at an angle. Pic related shows it leans a fair amount in the direction of the front of the tank. It's even worse at other parts of the floor. What can I do to fix this that won't compromise the stand's ability to hold the weight of everything? I'm a noob and I have no ideas

[Anonymous No.2625021]

I'm a bachelor. I have a 1.5 bath ranch. The bathroom and kitchen need severely remodeled. My only experience with this kind of work is doing trim work, painting, installing shelving, adding a ceiling light to my living room(Why don't homes have a fucking ceiling light in living rooms?), and building a screened in porch.

I figure I should start with a bathroom remodel first, then the kitchen since the bathroom will be cheaper. I want to do half tile, half paint, new tub/shower, new vanity and mirror, etc. Would this be too big an undertaking for me to do alone with my skill level or should I try to hire someone at least for advice? On paper it looks like I could get it done over the course of two weeks if I only work on it every day, but I've never laid tile before and only some plumbing(i've replaced a toilet)

[Anonymous No.2625044]

>>2625009
wood shims under the low side. Or some of those adjustable feet.

[Anonymous No.2625045]

>>2625021
Do it yourself, but keep a swear jar. When you finish the first job, then decide whether to use your blood money for a vacation or to hire out the next job.

[Anonymous No.2625077]

>>2625045
On paper it sounds easy. It is a small bathroom. I would like to turn the half bath in the basement into a full bath, though. Not sure how the drain would work, but there's a way I'm sure.

[Anonymous No.2625084]

What is this? And how do I remove it?

It looks like a bouncy ball is in the t-pipe section before the u-trap section of the drain in my tub. The image is pointed upwards towards the overflow pipe.

I removed the overflow/drain stop contraption, and now the tub won't drain. The verflow/drain stop was broken so I'm replacing it. I assume this is what's blocking it. The pipes would be too hard to remove, so I think pushing it upwards through the opening where the overflow pipe used to would be easiest, but this pipe cleaner doesn't seem to do it. Tool would have to fit in u-traps' clog/drain hole. Any other tool or ideas?

[Anonymous No.2625101]

Can I download some niggered up version of SketchUp? I don’t wanna pay.

[Anonymous No.2625114]

>>2625084
is there any way to get a straight shot at it with a long bit so you could like stick a wood screw into the sucker? it could either break it apart into chunks that could go down, or give you purchase to hook something around the screw head to pull it out

[Anonymous No.2625125]

Is there an easy/cheap way to build a weak vacuum chamber for the purpose of making soda go flat quickly?

Pouring the soda into a cup, vigorously stirring the cup, etc. does a lot to remove the carbonation, but there's still plenty left and I'd like something more thorough.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2625163]

>>2625125
Pic related is <$20, figure out a way to glue one of those little fittings into the top of literally any bottle or container and pump away. Maybe a glass bottle like Perrier or a glass 40oz container.

[Anonymous No.2625171]

How can you tell if a certain repair job (BIG hole in drywall, replacing wires, etc.) needs a permit or not? And how do you tell if a crrtain repair job is out of your league? Is it just a gut feeling from experience, or do you look for specific signs

[Anonymous No.2625185]

>>2625084
Corkscrew? I can’t tell how much room you have.

[Anonymous No.2625205]

>>2625125
Use the ones they make for wine. Under 20$

[Anonymous No.2625265]

Is there some kind of wire frame device for holding something open so you can dry it? Something like a cooking whisk, but larger and adjustable?

[Anonymous No.2625271]

>>2625265
>something
What kind of "thing"? Because it sounds like you want a wire coat hanger or 3 and some quality time with pliers.

[Anonymous No.2625285]

I have a mid 80s lathe that uses step pulleys for speed control, can I add a dimmer switch between the power switch and the motor to fine-tune the speed?

[Anonymous No.2625286]

>>2625171
>How can you tell if a certain repair job (BIG hole in drywall, replacing wires, etc.) needs a permit or not?
There's probably a list on your towns website.
>And how do you tell if a crrtain repair job is out of your league?
Find a YouTube video and see if you can do it. Do you have the tools? Are you going to burn the house down/KYS if things go wrong? Typically things take two or three times as long as you think they will.

[Anonymous No.2625299]

>>2625285
What does the motor manufacturer say?

[Anonymous No.2625329]

is pic water damage? Its a part of the ceiling in my room and there is a balcony above. I assume the tar/bituminous layer is leaky and would have to be replaced how hard would that be for 20m2 ?

[Anonymous No.2625350]

Damaged sheet metal garage door trim. What are these pieces called at home depot and/or how do I fix this? Thinking seriously about bondo and paint.

[Anonymous No.2625497]

retard here,
I bought a 3/8" drill and tap set
the tap has a square drive
what kind of tap wrench do I need?
I am mostly seeing complete tap-and-die + wrench kits with multiple wrenches, I don't need all of that, just a tap wrench, but which kind?

[Anonymous No.2625505]

>>2625497

the kind on the left is easier to manage when the tap is "small". the other one is good for larger taps. If I had to guess I'd say "small" is less than 1/4", but why not buy both so you have what you need.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2625512]

>>2625497
They make tap sockets too that are super popular. Lisle sells a full set. Stick the tap in the socket and use it with a ratchet.

Otherwise you can use an open ended wrench or adjustable wrench as long as you keep the bitch straight. I’m sure there’s boomer excuses about that but it works.

[Anonymous No.2625519]

>>2624298
The door to my bedroom rattles around whenever someone closes an exterior door in the house and it's extremely annoying. What should I put in the door frame to silence it that will actually be durable?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2625522]

>>2625497
>>2625512
Picrel is cheaper than the full 7+ piece set of tap sockets from Lisle and others.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2625524]

>>2625522
>>2625512
>>2625497
Goddamn I suck at life

>>2625519
You could do some thin foam weatherstripping like for an exterior door, they’re normally adhesive so you put it along the door frame and the door closes onto the foam, then adjust whatever you need to adjust with the latch so you get a soft close and it’s snug.

[Anonymous No.2625526]

>>2625512
> use it with a ratchet...I’m sure there’s boomer excuses about that but it works.
>>2625524

Some boomers say that it's a good idea to turn the tap some then reverse it to break the chip. If that is actually a good idea, then a tap socket in an ordinary ratchet sucks.

t.zoomer

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2625527]

>>2625526
Sheeeeit put it on a T-handle or breaker bar or flip the damn switch with your thumb.

I find those cheaper small tap wrenches and die holders quite annoying. The floppy sliding handles. But I’ve never had some machinist grade tap handle so can’t comment on that one.

[Anonymous No.2625536]

>>2625527
>breaker bar

tapping with a breaker bar. yeah baby. I guess the name "breaker" would apply pretty quickly.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2625564]

>>2625536
I mean like a goddamn 10”-12” 3/8” drive bar, you know like the old short Craftsman ones because a wise boomer once said not to stick a cheater bar on a ratchet because reasons.

Me, I’m of the opinion that breaker bars <18” are stupid, but a lot of kits still get sold with a <12” breaker bar

[Anonymous No.2625582]

I need a recommendation for an epoxy-like or urethane-like filler which is hard, cured density greater than or equal to that of water, bonds to plastic, flows evenly, can cure with limited air circulation (so, think curing inside a milk jug), and won't absorb water once cured. I don't care about porosity or degassing but it shouldn't be too expensive. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.2625615]

some tweaker dude got sick and left town. he left this bag outside his camp, i thought it was hilarious so i kept it. i want to keep my weed, tobacco, papers, grinder, etc in there.

how long can germs live in therE? ive had it folded up in a drawer for about 15months now. room temp

[Anonymous No.2625617]

^^^can staph survive for months? years?

[Anonymous No.2625624]

>>2624298
OP here. I put a 10-32 screw into the top with a washer to hold it in place, and this fixed it. The threading wasn't obvious until I got up there with a ladder.

[Anonymous No.2625625]

>>2625615

I'd rather buy some new ones online than fuck around with that possible biohazard. If you are serious, I'd wash it with something known to kill fungus/cdiff/staph/hiv

I mean do you really want his dirty needle bag?

[Anonymous No.2625650]

>>2624488
You can use both for both purposes, but it quickly becomes clear why one does certain tasks better than the other. Drill for small pre drillers, cheap bit index, hole saws, more control and clutch. Impact for sending screws like drywall into framing or decks or especially lags. Impact for socket general assembly and allen hex bolts or any device with several different bits needing quick switch. Dedicated mixer drill to handle the electrical load and heat of mixing heavy. SDS for tile demo and quickly punching holes in concrete and masonry.

[Anonymous No.2625651]

>>2625009
You can add threaded inserts to receive adjustable feet bolts. They might be called "leveling screws" where it's just a t-nut and a screw with a pad. Or just shim and/or connect it to a stud.

[Anonymous No.2625652]

I want to build a buzzer like the one used in "Who's Line is it Anyways?," but I want one that sounds as much like the original as possible. Does anyone have any idea which one would be the closest?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSDdVsVl4n0&ab_channel=DrewCarey

[Anonymous No.2625667]

Gf's apartment needed work and the building opened up the kitchen wall for 5 days - now the place has fucking roaches. Germans. Got Raid, got bait, but Canada is a fucking idiotic country that doesn't allow you to buy actual pest control methods beyond that. Beyond baking soda + sugar, anyone got any got bugfucking methods? There's a cat in here too, so we can't just borax the joint. Just in the kitchen so far, but that's it.

[Anonymous No.2625690]

>>2624298
Drill and tap for a retainer bolt. Use a pan head cap screw so it's not so visible. Industrial supplier should give you one for free

[Anonymous No.2625693]

>>2625524
I've used this exact tap socket with my 3/8" impact to tap dozens of holes. As long as your holes are sized right and you use lots of rapid tap you will have success.

[Anonymous No.2625697]

>>2625171
Contact your local building department or check their website. They will have a list of repair or work that requires a permit. As for what repairs you can handle, you should know. Do you have the tools for it? Have you done it before? How bad will it be if you fuck it up?

>>2625329
It's either water or oil. Hard to tell.

>>2625350
Over that little ding? Just repaint it, who's ever going to notice it?

>>2625519
The door latch may be too loose. Try shimming it with some cardboard to stop it from moving around.

>>2625526
You reverse to move the metal shavings out of your path. If you don't the shavings can get in way and cause damaged threads.

>>2625617
Up to nine months depending onnthe surface.

>>2625667
>apartment
Call the fucking landlord and make them take care of it. WTF is wrong with you rentcucks?

[Anonymous No.2625713]

Anyone have a life hack for catching sawdust from drilling pilot holes?
I need to drill some pilot holes in my office and want an easy way to catch the sawdust without havign to lay down a bunch of tarps on the ground to catch it.

[Anonymous No.2625729]

>>2625713
Are you a click bait ai?

I've heard reports this doesn't actually work that great, masking tape on a sheet of 8.5x11 paper is way better

[Anonymous No.2625731]

>>2625084
Put a big blob of hot glue on a suction cup type thing on a stick and glue it to the ball and pull

[Anonymous No.2625735]

>>2624298
https://www.grainger.com/product/LCN-Door-Closer-Arm-Aluminum-32MC50

[Anonymous No.2625767]

home ethernet network question:
need to guide an ethernet cable from 1st floor to ground floor from outside. The cable is supposed to go vertically down on outer wall and then be buried.
Can burial-grade cable be used on the vertical section? I've read that the gel can run down the cable in vertical installation ultimately destroying it. Should i instead use an outdoor cable and secure it somehow for burial instead?

[Anonymous No.2625779]

>>2625767
Running copper outside the house gets complicated. Consider running a pre terminated length of duplex fiber cable. Multimode should be fine.

If you really want to stick with copper you should put an 'exterior grounded gas discharge ethernet surge protector' on the side of the house before it goes underground. Then run normal interior/exterior cable to the box and then burial out the other side.

The box needs to be grounded to a ground rod nearby, or directly to your home's primary ground electrode with the #6 ground wire all on the exterior of the house.

You gotta imagine lightning finding your burial cable and then all the ethernet cable inside your walls bursting into flames and your router exploding, because lightning can do that. Even with the gas discharge tubes, they barely stop it.

If you like the building on the other side, that should have its own gas discharge box and grounding.

[Anonymous No.2625793]

>>2624298
Honestly surprised that no-one suggested it yet; you need a bifurcated rivet - they come in packs of six or ten and they do wear out from friction over time.

[Anonymous No.2625813]

How expensive would it to be to build an american-style stick frame house in Europe?

[Anonymous No.2625864]

how do i get this thing off the ceiling without breaking it (not the moth he's my friend)

[Anonymous No.2625868]

>>2625697
>Call the fucking landlord and roodydoodypoo
Yeah, you've never dealt with "Canadian" landlords. None live in the country nor do repairs properly because they get another countryman to do it for bottom dollar. Hence critters, and the desire to fix it oneself. Mass replying fucktard.

[Anonymous No.2625877]

>>2625864
Remove lightbulb. There's some screws under the silver insulation somewhere, they should be near the existing holes.

Loosen screws or completely remove them. If you loosen them you should be able to rotate it counterclockwise a smidgen and it'll come off

[Anonymous No.2625929]

>>2625813
Why tho

[Anonymous No.2625973]

>>2625779
damn anon that’s some interesting shit and I’d like to learn more. I don’t even have plans that involve any of this stuff.

[Anonymous No.2626044]

>>2625779
interesting, thank you anon, i'll look into those topics

[Anonymous No.2626047]

I don't understand how electrical wiring works so:

Moving to an older place, very few sockets per room, and most rooms have a window AC taking up one of them.
I was told to just use power strips, but I'm not sure how much I can put through them before it's a problem?
Like if I plug in two strips, and have one with the AC in it, and then my computer stuff on the other strip, will that balance the load or is it all going to put the same strain on the sockets?

[Anonymous No.2626055]

How do I get this off? The sinks clogged and I can't get this trap loose. Afraid I'm going to break it.

[Anonymous No.2626089]

>>2626044
https://youtu.be/Ev0PL892zSE?t=360

8bit guy has a very real sounding lightning strike, and he even goes over switching to fiber.

He uses an older style with sc fiber cables, lc is the connector you're gonna get on what would be more common today, using sfp or sfp+ media converters.

His grounding blocks also don't seem adequate. Like maybe that would help ground a shielded cable but that doesn't look like it has proper gas tubes on it.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2626113]

>>2626047
Don’t daisy chain power strips, that’s a bit sketchy. You’re not going to “balance the load”, but if the wiring isn’t fucked, it will trip the breaker if the AC is going and you’re gayming on the PC a little too hard. It’s not really about the load on a single outlet.

Also probably a better idea to plug the AC straight into the outlet, then use a single quality power strip for the PC and everyhing else if it’s only one outlet.

You can also do a little testing and figure out which outlets are on which circuit breakers. Like shut off a single breaker and then see which lights and outlets go out. If somehow you have 2 outlets in that room on different circuits, then ideally you would have the AC on one circuit and PC and stuff on another.

It’s all about watts. If it’s a US home with 120V outlets and a standard 15A breaker or maybe 20A per circuit, then you have 1800W-2400W to play with on every circuit. Look at tags and plugs and equipment to see how many watts they’re using when running and which outlets are on that circuit and do the math.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2626117]

>>2626055
There’s like 2 or 3 profound things my dead dad ever said to me that I took to heart and I think about all the time.

When I look at this pic, I think about one of those sayings.

From the HVAC head service guy at a good size company: “I fix shit all day at work and I can fix almost anything, but I don’t mind paying somebody to do plumbing or automotive work. It’s dirty, everything is hard to access, and half the time the shit is seized”

I think the other two things he said were “I buy all my own tools so I don’t have to rely on some other asshole to get a job done and I’m not beholden to the company to make money” and the third was “I don’t know what I would do if I found out my son was gay.”

[Anonymous No.2626125]

>>2626055
This is one of those cases why I don't like working with copper or brass for under the sink plumbing. Yes you can potentially break it. You have two options as far as I can see.

First option being that you can grab a pipe wrench and fit it to the trap and grab a second one for the release at the bottom. Personally I'd grab some penetrating oil and soak that down first a good 12-24 hours before hand. Use the leverage on the pipe wrenches to make sure you don't break those joints and turn that open. Failing that we go to option 2...

Grab a blow torch and make sure to remove that rubber boot. This is going to be messy. You're going to apply the heat to the joint on the strait pipe in the back to remove the entire trap. Replace with pvc. Most pvc traps have proper rubber seals and tend to be cheap to replace anyway. Make sure once you get the trap off to sand the rest of the joint smooth for a proper connection when you convert. I can't say which connections to use as that will depend on what's available in your area, but I know they do have a locking nut seal version for converting from metal piping to pvc as I've had to do so myself.

[Anonymous No.2626128]

>>2626117
Not him, but smart man. I do the same thing for the same reasons. Plumbing is a bitch half the time, but it's better than electrical in old houses like mine. As I posted in the second option here >>2626125 Applying heat and just converting to pvc is frankly the easiest way to deal with that issue.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2626132]

>>2626128
>>2626125
When I first saw that pic, I just imagined chopping off everything right about where the red line is and spending $8 on PVC between that line and the black rubber coupler

[Anonymous No.2626136]

>>2626132
Yep. That's exactly what I'm talking about. Cutting will be harder though. If you apply heat to the silver part (soldering) it will come right off when it gets properly hot. Just sand it smooth for a clean connection after.

[Anonymous No.2626139]

>>2626113
I didn't mean daisy chain I meant, with two sockets, one strip for each
What's the advantage to having the AC in directly? I was thinking AC + tv + soundbar on one strip/socket, gaymen PC stuff on another

[Anonymous No.2626151]

What's the best vacuum cleaner for home use?

[Anonymous No.2626211]

>prepare my spray gun with surface primer for a plug i'm making
>finish everything
>realise that i forgot to put thinner in the mixture
how fucked am i?

[Anonymous No.2626231]

>>2624298
So I have a mini split AC like pic related (it's got an inverter). I just turned it on for the first time this season. Last summer I remember that if I set it to the lowest temp and maximum fan speed, it would draw the maximum power (checked with power meter), which was 980 W. Now however it's only running at 750 W. What gives? Is this a sign of refrigerant leaking? I know it adjusts compressor speed depending on various factors but I specifically set it to as cold as I cold, yet I feel like it's not blowing as cold air as it did last summer. I mean it's cold but not that cold.

[Anonymous No.2626253]

>>2626136
>>2626132
So if I get a torch and heat this joint it should pull off?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2626269]

>>2626139
Look at how many watts the AC draws. Whenever you start adding power strips and extension cords, you’re adding resistance and upping the chance of tripping the breaker. At my last house, the 15A air compressor was fine plugged directly into an outlet, but if I had it on an extension cord and was running it hard, it would trip the breaker on startup after a handful of cycles. Modern LED TVs don’t draw that much, and I’m not sure what your PC is like, but you also probably have more outlets and lights on that same breaker.

Use high quality power strips if you’re going to do it. If you don’t want to do the circuit breaker testing or add up the watts from all the appliances, than plug it all in and see if the breaker trips. If it does trip, start unplugging shit until it doesn’t.

>>2626151
I’ve had good luck witb Shark vacs. Had a Dyson some years ago and they’re real nice, but it’s an extra $100-$200 to pay for Sir Dyson’s cock rings.

>>2626253
Hopefully. Make sure you remove that rubber boot closer to the sink because heat travels through metal quickly and you don’t want to accidentally melt other stuff.

[Anonymous No.2626330]

>>2626253
Yes. Non threaded joints are joined using soldering to make them water tight. Heating the solder, or in this case the pipe will be the proper location, will liquify it as long as it's still hot and you'll be able to just pull that elbow off. Apply a blowtorch or decent butane torch at the seam or just under it and let it get hot. You'll want some oven mitts on hand as copper and brass are really good at transferring heat as well as a place to put the piping after so you don't damage anything. Depending on what you're using to heat the joint, it might take about 5 min or so. For reference, here's a basic guide on joining copper pipes. You're just doing the reverse of it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyVbjDsric4

[Anonymous No.2626418]

lately i have been working with concrete a lot. will i die or catch cancer from inhaling concrete dust?

[Anonymous No.2626424]

>>2626418
wear the fucking mask

[Anonymous No.2626430]

>>2626231
While it's possible that it has had leaking, I wouldn't necessarily worry about that. The real question is whether its able to adequately control the temperature inside the room the way that it used to.

its power usage is going to vary based on the indoor and outdoor temperature where the condenser/evaporator are located. Generally, if you're running in A/C mode then the unit will run more efficiently when it's warm inside and cool outside.
The ease with which the condenser especially can reject heat into the outdoor air causes less load on the compressor, which decreases it's power usage.

This is why you see things like SEER ratings for A/Cs rather than a simple power consumption figure of XXX watts like you would see with a lightbulb or other appliance.

Cleaning the air filter and outdoor coil could help too

[Anonymous No.2626433]

>>2626418
look up "silicosis"

While you're not going to keel over from getting just a few mild whiffs of the stuff, it's not good to breathe concrete dust, and you really ought to wear a mask or take other precautions, especially if you're doing it regularly. The other methheads on the job site will make fun of you for using any type of PPE, but they'll also be hardcore drug addicts on disability by the time they're 40, so just tell them to suck your cock and do it anyway

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2626445]

>>2626433
>disability by 40
Damn. That sounds comfy. Fuck your PPE, it’s uncomfortable and makes you look like a fag anyway.

[Anonymous No.2626469]

>>2624298
Flux core or stick for welding nuts on a stripped fastener? Flux would be easier to get into place, but would it have enough penetration? I'm a mig baby at work but am working outside, and have no real experience with either flux or stick
Am borrowing a buddies titanium 140, so have the option of either

[Anonymous No.2626478]

>1950s house
>Try to drain snake a deep clog
Now the water is just black with metal. How bad is this? Who do I call? Everything in this house is asbestos so replacing pipes would be a nightmare.

[Anonymous No.2626490]

Why are surveyors so difficult to hire? Need to find a corner and boundary survey along east side of property. ballpark cost estimate?

[a !!haQLbxvM/UC No.2626492]

>>2624298
Please watch this approximately two hour long free documentary film

watchdominion.org

wont you watch it?

[Anonymous No.2626493]

>>2626490
>pic
>pyroxylin tent
Don't put it too close to the campfire!

[Anonymous No.2626629]

pic isn't mine but similar situation. I'm replacing the fan in my bathroom, already got the new one. just like the pic, the rooftop vent is on the opposite side of the fan's exhaust port, so there's a sharp bend right at the beginning. I could just turn the fan around so the port's on the correct side, but it mounts to the rafter in only one orientation. if I turn it around there's no holes. I should be fine just drilling through the side of the box with some self-tappers right? or is there something I'm missing?

also, the existing duct is 3" and the exhaust on the new one is 4", so I got a reducer. the duct will clamp on, but the other end fits loosely over the exhaust port on the fan body. what kind of adhesive do I use to make sure it stays on? I thought about tape but it'll look shitty and maybe won't hold as well as something like silicone around the edge of the reducer-port connection. thoughts?

[Anonymous No.2626639]

What's a relatively cheap and not too jarring way to add an angle to part of my shower so water goes down the drain and doesn't collect on the edge? Would a clear epoxy with some texture added for grip be the best way to go about it? I'm a rentcuck so anything is not tenable.

[Anonymous No.2626640]

>>2626639
get out of my house

[Anonymous No.2626645]

>>2626490
>ballpark cost estimate?
Around here, the going rate is 400$ a day for a simple job like that, and even if it doesn't take them an hour, you still pay the full day rate.

[Anonymous No.2626667]

>>2626640
No u. Circle or square bro, lay it out

>>2626639
Epoxy will discolor and get shitty and Crack or do something shitty soon.

If that's new you should negotiate and get a couple thousand off your install because their tile guy is retarded. I had a fucking retarded tile guy and he still.managed to pitch it right so it drains.

I guess you can try it. You'd need something thick that doesn't auto level though

[Anonymous No.2626668]

I bought a LitePlacer kit a few months ago. I've struggled to assemble it to a point where I can actually calibrate it. First I didn't use shielded wiring for the motors. Then one of the motors didn't work. Then the wiring was just a huge fucking dragging mess. It's just been a fucking ordeal to get the wiring right. And I feel like a moron and a failure for not getting this assembled and working yet. I had just gotten a part of the rewiring done only to realize I didn't account for one of the movement axis.

I need some general advice about how to keep working on this. What do you do when you get stuck on a project or when you just keep fucking up?

Pic is what the machine is supposed to look like.

[Anonymous No.2626669]

>>2626639
Get out of Cape May

[Anonymous No.2626675]

How do you do a brick layout with variously sized vintage bricks?
Have been hoarding all the free/cheap reclaimed bricks I can find to do a 400sq ft patio. Unfortunately all the lots are usually sub 50sq and of various sizes being old handmade reclaims.
All of the "reclaimed patios" I've seen were taken from one source so they don't have this size issue.
My autism says you need at least one vector to be straight to not look like shit but idk an easy way to do that without making up the difference wet setting them, wanted to dry set to save money.

[Anonymous No.2626677]

>>2626675
It'll be more difficult to level before setting, but try getting 3 dimensional and flip every other row on it's side and see if you can get better lines that way.

[Anonymous No.2626679]

I'm trying to install a smart switch and failing.

there are cream colored wires in a nut which i assume are neutral since the other wires are black (plus unsleeved ground)

when the neutral is connected to the smart switch, it doesn't turn on (although there's current per the pen tester)

and when the neutral wire isn't in the nut, the regular light switch doesnt work either

however when i put the neutral back in the wire nut with the other cream wires, the regular light works again (not smart switch since it requires neutral)

what the hell am I doing wrong?

[Anonymous No.2626689]

>>2626679
You probably don't have a neutral amd a hot, you have a switched hot and a hot. You're replacing a switch that never had a neutral.because it's an old dumb switch

[Anonymous No.2626697]

>>2626677
Perhaps if I can get a string of 1 size brick and run them the long way across the short side of the patio it won't matter there are different widths on some strings.

[Anonymous No.2626709]

>>2626679
>>2626689
>You probably don't have a neutral amd a hot, you have a switched hot and a hot. You're replacing a switch that never had a neutral.because it's an old dumb switch
This. The neutral has been repurposed to be the return hot leg back to the luminaire. That is perfectly code compliant. It should have been indelibly marked to indicate as such.

[Anonymous No.2626727]

>>2626689
>>2626709
my house was built last year, is that still a possibility?

so if that's the case I'm screwed and I can't install this smart switch?

[Anonymous No.2626739]

>>2626727
>my house was built last year, is that still a possibility?
Depends on the state. Starting in 2011, Article 404.2(C) requires it, but there was an exception through 2020 or so.

[Anonymous No.2626740]

>>2624298
My generator has these twist lock connectors for it's 220v outlet, does anyone make a dryer plug style converter to run a welder off of it? I'm welding way out in the boonies and don't want to rent an engine driven welder when I already have a generator and a stick welder

[Anonymous No.2626752]

>>2626739
TX

[Anonymous No.2626756]

>>2626689
>>2626709
are there any solutions to having the switch on a timer if I can't use a smart switch?

what if I get an electrician to come and route a neutral wire to that switch box? would that be a big job?

[Anonymous No.2626770]

>>2626756
It's probably like $200 or $400 it's easy but driving out to your house, meeting you. And giving you a quote has minimum fee they need to get back.

It needs a neutral because any power it uses to run itself and connect to the smart network is gonna pull enough power through the circuit the light will flicker on.

I think he'd have to replace it with a 4 wire cable since it has a hot, neutral, and the switched leg for the light, then the ground for the box

[Anonymous No.2626777]

>>2626770
cool thanks

[Anonymous No.2626783]

>>2626211
>i said fuck it and did the next layer anyway
>but i did it with a brush for the first time instead of a spray gun because i didn't feel like covering myself in acetone to clean the spray gun afterwards
>mfw it works just as well
>mfw i spent $450 on an air compressor and spray gun for nothing
why am i so dumb?

[Anonymous No.2626787]

im looking for resources on brass working, but its either plumbing or train hobby stuff. trains closer to what im looking for, but im wondering if anyone knows any better sources.
an example project would be making a rc car chassis/tube frame in 1/16th scale. this isnt my actual goal, but it covers the same basics i guess.

[Anonymous No.2626864]

I am using epoxy to cast a chess piece but its not drying hard, its a little squishy.

I am measuring exactly 1 to 1 for the resin and hardener by grams, any ideas?

[Anonymous No.2626901]

>>2624298
Bit of a long one, but here goes...

I've got a set of these chinese rocker arms for a chinese engine, and to nobodys surprise when they showed up they were filled with swarf. Had to take the pin out of the center of the roller area to clean it out, but due to some chinese fuckery they had somehow manaed to not only make it out of hardened steel, but also swage the ends out a little, so the old pins are useless now.
I want to replace the pins, and have some hardened steel rod that I've cut a couple of lengths of, and even though it's the perfect OD for the needle bearings inside it's not a tight fit in the hole left behind on the rocker arms. Not exactly sloppy, but it still slides in and out without any resistance, so I need a way to hold it in.
Can't drill a hole in it as it's tool steel, trust me I've tried, and trying to peen the edge over is useless due to how hard the steel is. I don't really want to try annealing it at all as it needs to act as a bearing race, so must be kept hard. I was thinking of brazing it in, is that a really dumb idea or might it work? Like I said, not a "tight" fit, there is a tiny amount of movement in the pin when it's in the holes, maybe a couple of thou? Will this be an issue if the bronze is having to take the load of the rockers for this very small amount of movement?

[Anonymous No.2626934]

Does anyone know what this is and why it shit all over the inside of my furnace?

I turned my ac on for 1st time this year, left for work and got home and noticed a smell and the wind wasn't blowing out of the registers. It has something to do with the fan. Did my house almost catch on fire????

[Anonymous No.2626935]

>>2626864
Is that specific epoxy meant to be measured by weight or volume?

Generally the epoxy to hardener ratio is something like 3:1 or 4:1, never 1:1

[Anonymous No.2626945]

>>2626934
Mouse go boom

[Anonymous No.2626974]

>>2626934
Did the cylinder (capacitor?) on the bottom explode. The metal thing on the bottom.with.the metal bracket on it and ground wire coming off the screw holding it down

[Anonymous No.2626991]

>>2624298
Am I doing this right? I need to join these two pieces. More reinforcement to come.

[Anonymous No.2627038]

>>2626269
That makes sense then, I didn't think much about resistance just total draw getting funneled
Left the AC direct on the wall, then one strip to my PC, then a daisy chained strip for the TV.

[Anonymous No.2627061]

>>2626935
Small tubes of epoxy put filler in the hardener so it's a 1:1 ratio by volume. Makes it easier to mix up.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2627064]

>>2627038
Modern TVs don’t draw much. The sound bar could be more than the TV, I’m not sure. It will probably have a label on the TV or plug. AC is probably #1, gayming computer #2? So don’t daisy chain those and maybe it will be good. You will know when summer comes and both are cranking. Make sure the cords and power strips aren’t getting warm and you should be fine until you trip whatever size the breaker is from everything on the circuit.

[Anonymous No.2627083]

I bought cables which have tiny gaps at the lug
the manufacturer says just put a dab of RTV on it
does it matter at all which color/type of RTV?

[Anonymous No.2627186]

>>2626974
Yeah, earlier I was cleaning it up and looking at the parts and yeah its a capacitor that blew up. a molten chunk of metal was on the floor of the unit so it went pretty bad as you could see. The capacitor itself is $13 from amazon but hopefully it didnt ruin the blower motor.

[Anonymous No.2627188]

>>2625101
Find installers for "Sketchup Make", from when Trimble owned it. Then make an account at Trimble to activate it. I'm still using my copy, and have installed it on multiple computers.

Sketchup and Trimble don't host the installers anymore, but some old sites do. Google "Sketchup Make 2017 download" - don't download from CNET unless you like malware.

[Anonymous No.2627192]

>>2625171
Depends on where you live, and what you're doing. Removing/adding onto existing plumbing and wiring usually requires one, but if it's just one socket or one switch, nobody is gonna care. Anything that changes the footprint, like moving load bearing walls, joists, or cutting holes in walls to add doors and windows will need one. Most contractors won't do big dollar jobs without one, because it's a liability issue, and your homeowners will deny claims if you don't have one for over a certain amount of work done.
Drywall, I've never heard of needing a permit, or painting. Siding might require one.

For me, it's experience. I'll frame walls and do drywall all day, but I don't fuck with HVAC. I can do most basic electrical, but I wouldn't be as fast as a pro.

[Anonymous No.2627194]

>>2625350
>What are these pieces called at home depot
Garage door trim, literally. Just go in and ask for what you need.

[Anonymous No.2627198]

>>2625615
You can buy those on Amazon.

[Anonymous No.2627199]

>>2626740
Dude, have you even bothered googling? Yes, they make them, tons of them, because the 4 prong regulations didn't start until 2000.
The bigger question is does your genny have the wattage to run a welder?

[Anonymous No.2627202]

>>2626787
Get this book. There used to be a large scale auto forum that's gone now, or I think it is, and he was a regular poster there. I have a PDF rip of it somewhere, but that was from years ago, but you might want to check the pirate sites. Yes, it's expensive, but it's a retired dude sharing decades of experience.

Found the site: "ScaleMotorCars", doesn'y work, getting datyabase errors going there.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2627218]

>>2627083
Aren’t the colors/types of RTV based on fluids and heat and shit? Are you going to get solvents and tons of heat on the lug of the cable? If not, do whatever RTV you have on hand.

[Anonymous No.2627239]

>>2626756
>are there any solutions to having the switch on a timer if I can't use a smart switch?
You could use the ground for the smart switch neutral provided the current is not more than 0.5 mA.

[Anonymous No.2627278]

>>2627239
is that limit just wrt to the safety threshold of having an ungrounded switch?

[Anonymous No.2627407]

>>2627061
>by volume
yeah
you were doing it by weight (grams), not by volume (mL), lol

[Anonymous No.2627409]

>>2627202
https://web.archive . org/web/20220523153007/http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/

[Anonymous No.2627505]

I have odd chainsaw takes 25/1 mixed gas some boomer told me I can run 40/1 through it no problem. Is he giving me the reach around?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2627511]

>>2627505
Probably, although the 25:1 should just be a couple extra drops in the fuel tank.

Call me an election denial conspiracy theorist, but I wouldn’t be surprised if 25:1 was better on the engines but Big Battery and Pfizer called up the NSA and they told the EPA to cut everything down to 50:1 for muh environment.

[Anonymous No.2627585]

aside from a die grinder that requires professional shop air, what is the best tool for general cleaning, sanding, light grinding, deburring, etc. of small patches of metal, in tight spots where a normal drill or full size orbit sander or whatever won't fit, and it needs to be right-angle

there are a few name-brand battery powered die-grinders but they are expensive, I think only Milwaukee makes a compact right-angle version, but it's from their M12 line and own M18 Fuel stuff, and for this I'd prefer corded anyway

is a dremel the best idea?

[Anonymous No.2627590]

>>2627585
Ryobi actually has a pretty decent die grinder if you trust Torque Test Channel's testing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SagshrBHifM

Holds it's high spot in the rankings in more recent videos.

[Anonymous No.2627612]

>>2627590
yeah I saw that but thanks to the big battery and its placement, it's not really compact, not like using an air die grinder
it is probably the best option in terms of performance

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2627728]

>>2627585
Dremels are a lot lower power than the 1/4” die grinders. The Dremel cordless models are even weaker than standard ones.

If you already have battery powered tools and that brand offers a 1/4” die grinder, go with that. Even the 12V models may not be up there with shop air quite yet but they will shit on a Dremel. Dremels have speed but zero torque, the 1/4” die grinders can actually keep the speed with some pressure.

[Anonymous No.2627736]

Is there any real downside to thoroughbred gas exchange vs a welding supply shop besides selection and price? I just moved and all the shops in my area close an hour before I get off work and aren't open weekends, so I'd have to take pto to pick up welding gas, whereas the local TSC is open 8-8 7 days a week.

[Anonymous No.2627740]

ive had a tankless heater for about 5 years now, its max set point is 120f and it always was able to produce scalding hot water. i just flushed the other week (5% vinegar using a pump though the isolator valves for a few hours), now it doesnt get nearly as hot as it used to for some reason, maybe 100 degrees max. what could i have screwed up doing this and how can i fix it?
idk if its correlation or causation but its the only possible thing i can think of that might have affected anything since it basically was never touched post install until i flushed it.
>yes ive tried turning it on and off, and made sure its still set to 120

[Anonymous No.2627846]

Is a lawn irrigation install difficult to diy? Seems like maybe not but I'm worried about the products I find on amazon

[Anonymous No.2627856]

>>2624298
I don't have a picture right now cause its dark but I had a tree taken down that was ruining a part of the fence. I managed to remove 750 lbs of root and trunk all by myself pulling 12 hour days mon to sat, last week. That being said, I still have a part of the trunk that is very close to the fence that I don't know how to get out. Its very hard to dig out cause the crew I had to remove the tree grinded most of the stump. I tried to use the digging bar to get it out, to no avail. I used my splitting axe but the trunk just ate it and once i accidentally hit the fence I stopped using it.
Handaxe doesn't do anything, I can't use fire, I was using the digging bar to try to split it down the middle but that is going to take time. Only other thing I can think of is buying a splitting wedge and a hand sledge and just hammering it to death. Any advice? If you guys need pictures, I can get one later.

[Anonymous No.2627859]

>>2627856
You could stab a chainsaw in there

[Anonymous No.2627860]

>>2627859
its too embedded into the dirt to use the chainsaw without fucking up the chain in some way or worse.

[Anonymous No.2627865]

>>2627860
Bury it and forget about it for a couple years while it rots.

[Anonymous No.2627868]

>>2627865
I'll try the splitting wedge and hand sledge and if that doesn't really get me anywhere I'll do that.

[Anonymous No.2627906]

>>2627505
Just buy some fuel and oil separately and mix it yourself

[Anonymous No.2628001]

is a cobalt molybdenum alloy mechanic's bit what I want for drilling into a truck frame?

[Anonymous No.2628002]

>>2624436
The sell these for IBC containers. Hope that helps.

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2628098]

>>2628001
Probably.

If you want good drill bits for hardened steel, they’re normally just labeled “Cobalt”. And most reputable companies will actually tell you the type of cobalt steel blend, M35 or M42 are the standards. M42 is typically higher end or harder at least. Like I think Irwin has both M35 and M42 sets and the M42 is a bit more expensive.

Be careful and keep the bits straight because they’re bittle compared to regular HSS bits.

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2628100]

>>2628001
>>2628098

Also “Mechanic’s Length” normally means they’re shorter. Jobber length is standard like any Home Depot drill bit set. Pic related shows the difference. IMO, as long as you’re not drilling deep, the mechanic length are easier to not break when drilling steel.

Last thing I learned on my drill bit hunt, make sure they’re “135 degree split point” bits. Any quality true cobalt steel should be 135deg. The cheap general use bits are sometimes 118deg, they’re easier to manufacture but hard to get a good centered hole when you start drilling.

[Anonymous No.2628177]

>>2625615
If the material can survive it, just run it through the dryer on high-heat.

[Anonymous No.2628180]

>>2627740
Has the flow rate changed noticeably? Only thing that comes to mind is that your de-scaling broke stuff free and it clogged somewhere instead of fully dissolving. Check the manual to see if there are any sort of filter screens in the fittings and clean them, then try de-scaling it again to see if you can dissolve it.

[Anonymous No.2628216]

>>2624298
I need a respirator and I know nothing about respirators. I'm just a regular home /diy/ that wants to grind things, spray paint some things and get into welding later.
For now I need one for particles but i'd like one that could be used for gases
I also have a beard so it seems like hooded respirators are my only option.
Pricing these things it's usually in the thousands
https://pekesafety.com/collections/respirators-and-dust-masks/products/pureflo3000?variant=39668591460430
This thingy is expensive but says it filters toxic gases but uses a hepa filter.
It just seems like overkill for my needs.
Am I missing something? Am I retarded? Why can't I just buy a cheap BDSM full head rubber latex gas mask and work while feeling sexy for my Sir?

[Anonymous No.2628239]

I want to build an offroad motorcycle from ebay parts but I want to know just how stupid this actually is?

[Anonymous No.2628255]

>>2628239
Very, you can buy pre-assmebled chinese motor bikes or even just handle bar parts that are dangerous. My uncle bought a "dirt bike handle bar" from china that turned out to be hollow all the way through, made of "steel" but I bet it was iron or pig iron and it snapped on the first jump he did and he nearly impaled his head on it, if it wasn't for the helmet.

[Anonymous No.2628276]

>>2625021
>Why don't homes have a fucking ceiling light
they used to use lamps, commonly plugged into switched plugs.

[Anonymous No.2628277]

>>2625285
install a vfd

[Anonymous No.2628278]

>>2624298
Hey cumbandits. I need a bell siphon alternative for an aquaponics system. Water fills to X height, valve releases, water dumps, water fills back up. Tits for visibility.

[Anonymous No.2628291]

Trying to tighten a shower head extension pipe. I tried a screwdriver like in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1NBOz255aQ&t=167 but that doesn't tighten it enough. There's a tiny little drip that comes through and I'm sure that will turn into a larger leak in the future. Any ideas? I have a pipe wrench but that would damage it.

[Anonymous No.2628299]

>>2627856
Find someone with a truck. Chain around stump, wrap around bumper. Dig out around the base, spray down with water, let it soak in, pull with truck.

[Anonymous No.2628319]

>>2628299
>Find someone with a truck. Chain around stump, wrap around bumper.
sadly this is impractical because of how far from the road it is, however I did buy a spliting wedge and a hand sledge and I'm gonna give that a try tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.2628348]

>>2628319
You can drive on grass, you know.

[Anonymous No.2628357]

What can I use to seal up this foundation area of my garage and what should I cover it with after? The strip of 3/8" plywood the previous owner was using clearly didn't work as there are 60 years worth of gunk and bug corpses back here.

[Anonymous No.2628361]

anything else i should do to neutralize and freshen a lived-in apartment? girlfriend is moving in with me in two weeks, and i've spent 2 years smoking ciggies on and off in my office. i'm a little nose blind because of that, but i quit a month ago, now i've
>ozone generator in the office a few times
>ammonia the floors and walls
>steam cleaned the floors
>all windows open, fans everywhere
>scrub as much as i can
any final steps or scents i should finish with? not a dealbreaker if she smells cigs but i want it to be all gay and nice smelling y'know

[Anonymous No.2628385]

Since I am apparently too dumb to search the catalog:
Is there a general for diy energy production? Specifically small-scale wind turbines and balcony solar arrays and such.

[Anonymous No.2628405]

>>2628255
I was going to go used parts like building a cb750, rebel250, ninja250, Yamaha yz 125. Would it be economical or feasible to get them registed if the frame and engine are all used from different years of the same model?

[Anonymous No.2628410]

>>2628405
you get a titled frame and it's titled as that frame. Never admit the bike is modified to DMV or your insurance.

[Anonymous No.2628423]

>>2625624
Yep. Virtually every single door closer of that type is assembled that way except for the really heavy duty ones.

[Anonymous No.2628430]

>>2628348
My parents would rather I not fuck up their yard, also I've seen some stumps fuck up car bumpers and transmissions before, or be completely fucking useless at best.

[Anonymous No.2628431]

How hard is it to learn to lay tile without it looking like a total hack job? I'm getting bent over on a shower remodel.

[Anonymous No.2628435]

>>2628180
not as far as I can tell. was thinking maybe it was something with the scale, but never considered there might be a filter in the heater, though I kind of doubt it I would think that would only be on the fresh inlet. I definitely made sure to flush the heater for a bit afterwards using The water supply and dump valve so there should have been little to nothing that made it into the house from there, and I didn't get much particulate out anyway maybe a teaspoon's worth of small bits and whatever might have dissolved into the vinegar but our water isn't particularly hard and I do have a softener. but I'll still investigate the manual to see if there's some sort of internal filter.

[Anonymous No.2628452]

>>2628431
shower / half bathroom remodel costs like $15,000. what were you quoted.

[Anonymous No.2628492]

>>2628431
tile is fairly easy to lay down because even if you fuck it up, chances are no one will notice, sepcially if its in the corner or where someone generally doesn't look too often. When you lay bricks its the same thing, someone who has laid the wall will probably say "its shit" because they know where all the little flaws are. But if you didn't lay the wall and your looking at it, it looks 100% fine.

[Anonymous No.2628516]

>>2628098
>>2628100
I just need to punch and hopefully tap a few 5/16" holes through the frame for frame grounds, hence mechanic's length, but I am having a hard time finding any that are
>bit size F
>mechanic's length
>cobalt (m42)
>decent quality / usa made
they all seem to be jobber length unless you buy a complete shop set

and yes M42 tool steel has higher moly and higher cobalt

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2628580]

>>2628516
Why not just get jobber length and be careful? Other option is jumping to the nearest 64th, should be close enough, especially since a hand drill is going to wobble a little bit. I would just go with the next 64th bit smaller than F.

Otherwise go with an F bit from a regular HSS set but from a good company assuming the frame isn’t hardened. Maybe get 2 bits to have a backup.

[Anonymous No.2628645]

every tongue-and-groove joint (channel lock) pliers I tested at the shartware store had a lot of slop in the joint
do the expensive brands like wiha and knipex have noticeable slop?
they all had pretty crappy fit and finish, and lots of forge marks and marring
the Channellocks claimed to be made or at least forged in the USA but they weren't impressive

I think the only brand that looked and felt good were the Milwaukee but they didn't have the size and type I want (v-jaw/parrot)
Crescent (not the USA made line) had the best jaw shape but felt the sloppiest

[Anonymous No.2628693]

>>2625713
Get yourself a big straw and suck really hard while you're drilling.

[Anonymous No.2628702]

How do I get less shit at welding? Practice more isn't an option, I get limited time in the shop. I've watched some timwelds on youtube but it hasn't gotten me where I want to be

[Anonymous No.2628734]

>Ryobi drill + 2 batteries for $80
>Ryobi six pack for $199

Just moved out on my own. Have no power tools. Know nothing about brands. Just mainly want the drill and maybe the saw.

Is either a bad buy? People seem to hate ryobi

[Anonymous No.2628736]

>>2628734

[Anonymous No.2628779]

>>2626787
check out the scratchbuilt section at slotblog - many older slot car chassis were often tube or rod so maybe useful ?

[Anonymous No.2628799]

>>2628702
Skills cannot be improved without practice amigo. You can buy a cheap 120v welder, get some junk pieces from a local scrap yard and practice putting them together in your backyard.

[Anonymous No.2628802]

>>2628734
Idk about you but in here in NY they’re doing a buy two batteries and a charger for $99 get a tool free. Pretty sure you can snag a drill, saw, and 4 batteries with chargers included for about $200 not bad at all.

And if you’re just getting started with power tools Ryobi’s a good place to start.

[Anonymous No.2628922]

How do you open up a laptop battery
Usually with these things I'd put them in a vice and gently smush them until the clips opened but Li-ion's don't like being smushed no matter how gentle it is

[Anonymous No.2628931]

I found a water leak in this crappy plumbing in my mobile home. I'm not able to fix it for a week or so, so in the meantime is there anything I can do to stop or slow it? I guess while I'm away I can shut the water off, but I'm curious if I could get some rubber and screw clamps on either side? It's just a pinhole type leak but...

[Anonymous No.2628979]

>>2624518
>>2624698
>You use your toes to measure the water temp before you get in.
Hilarious

[Anonymous No.2628981]

I've always heard band saws are very dangerous, but I don't see how they're that much more dangerous than most other power tools. I know with table saws you have to watch for binding and kickback, I know to use a push stick, and I know not to stand directly behind the piece as you push it through. My understanding is that band saws are equally dangerous, but the only safety advice I can think of is not to put your fingers near the blade (duh). Can someone explain any additional dangers to me? I don't see other ways in which a bandsaw can hurt me.

[Anonymous No.2628983]

>Saw an autist on the internet complaining about the color of lightbulbs
>thought to myself that he was being autistic
>linve in banania
>incandescent light have been phased out almost completely and for years
>been using fluorescent for most of my life
>they starting to go away too
>buy LED
>hate it's color
Goddam! I wanted the low power consumption but the color is horrible, the shadows are sharp and i feel like i'm in a fucking nightmare

[Anonymous No.2628984]

>>2625125
I keep imagining a pressure chamber to make sure the damn soda doesn't go flat. Then i tell myself i should drop the fucking habit instead of thinking up an impractical contraption.
But addiction tho

[Anonymous No.2628987]

>>2628983
They make LED lightbulbs in literally every colour. Just get a different one.

[Anonymous No.2628989]

>>2628987
Gotta find them first

[Anonymous No.2628999]

>>2628983
stop buying dirt cheap CRI 60, 6000K bulbs, then
led light can look as good or bad as you want them to, the main issue really is that good leds aren't dirt cheap, but that doesn't mean they don't exist
ps. Flourescent light is pretty shit, too

[Anonymous No.2629112]

Bought a new house and the previous owners took their ceiling fan with them. I was left with this. Are these supposed to be tied together? Isn't this my power, neutral, and ground? They are fused together.

Thanks

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2629146]

>>2629112
What other wires are in there? They would be quite retarded to tie them all together. I bet it’s a ground for some reason. Get out your multimeter and find out.

[Anonymous No.2629213]

>>2629112
I'm definitely not an electrician but those three all look like white wires that got cooked, or possibly exposed to smoke. It looks like the black wires go elsewhere. Presumably one of red/black is switched and the other is not. If you set it up like me, you can have your light on the switch but "always" power the fan to use the fan's own controls. In my case, the black also carried on to an outlet on the other side of the room.

[Anonymous No.2629251]

Pull cord on lawn mower is broken. Can I replace it with something like 14 gauge insulated wire. If I insulate both ends of the wire so it cant create a circuit any way can the permanent magnet on the fly wheel still induce any current, and if it can is it non issue or could it cause wire to burn.

[Anonymous No.2629265]

>>2628001
Yeah, you definitely want at least an m35 cobalt bit for that, preferably m42, in a mag drill. Actually, the best option is an annular cutter, but those are a little pricey unless you plan on doing a lot of metal fabricating,
Hand drilling with cobalt bits is a good way to break expensive cobalt bits.
If you've got one of those desktop drill presses, you can usually nigger rig them to drill horizontally with a half dozen c clamps and maybe a jack stand or something to support the head, but it's really not ideal and mag drills are way less expensive than they used to be even a decade ago.

[Anonymous No.2629268]

>>2629251
Is the recoil itself fucked or is it just the rope pullet out? Pull cord is cheap at a small engine shop, 5/32 or 1/8 nylon rope is even cheaper. Trying to pull a wire isn't gonna work.

[Anonymous No.2629270]

>>2629251
Just go buy some pull cord

If for some reason that's a really hard thing to do, you're just going to try wire anyways. If you do this, report back. If I had to guess I'd say at least you won't zap yourself.

[Anonymous No.2629271]

>>2629251
You'd be better off with a shoe lace if you absolutely have to jury rig it.

[Anonymous No.2629273]

>>2629268
everything about this mower is fucked, just finished changing fluids, repairing motor coil, cleaning carb, replacing spark plug. Didn't want to put any money into it until I know the engine can actually run so was looking for a ghetto way to improvise, otherwise I will try to borrow an impact wrench and do it that way

[Anonymous No.2629294]

>>2629273
>I will try to borrow an impact wrench and do it that way
If you're trying to start it off the flywheel nut, use a drill instead. An impact will just fuck up the crank/flywheel. Or just wrap a rope clockwise around the recoil cup and pull start it the old fashioned way.

[Anonymous No.2629301]

>>2629251
The wire would work for testing

It'll break quickly though

[Anonymous No.2629501]

My HVAC system is on it's last legs. It's 17 years old, and I live in FL so it's essentially running non-stop through the summer months. I've had to clear the drain line about 3 times in the past 1.5 months. My dad said that I could pour some bleach into the mouth of the drain-line, but I wouldn't trust him to bang a hammer. Is this solid advice? Is there something better to use rather than bleach? Also, how much of whatever you'd suggest?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2629511]

>>2629501
I’ve done bleach in mine before. Not sure if it’s technically correct but hasn’t done me wrong, I don’t think a little bleach will harm the PVC but I wouldn’t get it inside the air handler by the drain pan or coils unless somebody smarter than me says to. Vinegar is the recommended safe way to go and the flush it with some good hot water until it’s clean.

I have a long condensate line at my house so I got a jar of tablets that I toss in the tray up at the air handler. Every few weeks, I drop 2 in and supposedly it helps to keep the drain clean. Only been a few months so it’s hard to tell, but I had issues from the previous owner not cleaning it literally the day I was moving in and it has been better.

[Anonymous No.2629516]

>>2629511
Thanks for the reply, I think I might go the vinegar route unless someone chimes in with some additional advice.

I also had issues the day or so after I moved in. I panicked because I knew the system was old, and I literally put all my money into the house. Only had like ~$200 till payday. Thankfully it was just the drain line.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2629524]

>>2629516
You got an air compressor? You can blow some air into there too. I wouldn’t go real high pressure just in case there’s lazy PVC joints hidden somewhere, but the vinegar + hot water + some air should blow out most of the organic shit that builds up.

Check the outlet and make sure that’s not clogged with big goop, and check the fittings right at the air handler for harder deposits. The latter was my issue rignt when I moved into this house, it was leaking from the condensate pan at the air handler because of like 1/8” of harder deposits on the drain fitting that screws into the air handler. I disassembled that thing, dropped the couple elbows and stuff into a pan with some CLR and scrubbed all that bullshit off. I probably could’ve bought new PVC for the price of the CLR but the thicker deposits came off fairly easily.

[Anonymous No.2629533]

>>2629524
No air compressor, but I guess I could use my wetvac to blow instead of suck, but to be honest the idea scares me a little due to the concerns that you mentioned.

The unit shuts down when that drain gets clogged, and I'm assuming it's a safety feature of some sort. Does that damage the unit by the feature being utilized?

[Anonymous No.2629537]

I dropped my safety razor in the shower and the head broke off, two questions:
1) How do I get the 'screw' out that is stuck in the upper part (the head of the razor is screwed onto the handle)
2) can I glue the screw handle back without it breaking and me cutting myself?

[Anonymous No.2629584]

>>2629511
>5 tons of A/C
what does that mean?

[Anonymous No.2629613]

>>2629584
>look how how heavy the AC model is
>for every 5 tons you add one tablet
>AC is 50 tons so you put in 10 tablets

[Anonymous No.2629622]

>>2629613
i feel like you're making fun of my question

[Anonymous No.2629656]

>>2629622
feelings aren't always reality, anon.

[Anonymous No.2629675]

>>2629584
Google, do you use it?

[Anonymous No.2629678]

I'm trying to put up a curtain rod, but I have no idea what I'm doing. The instructions that came with it said to drill a 1/4 hole, so I got a 1/4 drill bit, and the hole seemed to be a lot bigger than expected. Also, the spot I choose didn't seem like it would work, since it looked like I hit some kind of metal inside the wall above the window.
1) Am I supposed to use a 1/4 drill bit for a 1/4 hole? Why did it turn out bigger than the screw? Should I use a smaller drill bit?
2) Is it possible to just screw the screw into the hole without even drilling a hole at all? Or would drilling a hole first be required?
3) I didn't realize there would be metal above the window. Are there standard areas around a window that are safe to drill/not drill?

[Anonymous No.2629681]

>>2629678
did you buy drywall anchors? Drywall anchors are pretty big compared to the screws they take.

[Anonymous No.2629686]

>>2624518
Ah yes, the low profile bidet

[Anonymous No.2629689]

>>2629656
you were making fun of the question, as evidenced by your reference to weight
well i looked it up, and it turns out it's an archaic thermal unit referring to the energy needed to melt a ton of ice (from back when ice was used to cool homes)

[Anonymous No.2629690]

>>2624751
Kek
>My water line is required to be bonded by code
>Can I just.... Not?

Hahahahahahahaha hahahahah
Fucking retards. christ

[Anonymous No.2629691]

>>2629689
So that is what A/C means? Huh, learned something new.

[Anonymous No.2629692]

>>2625101
Sweet home 3d will do most architect stuff.
You'll need to get your hands on a full copy of ready-to-build blueprints to know what it's missing

[Anonymous No.2629693]

>>2625329
Buy a quart of fiber reinforced elastomeric, go up after it rains and figure out where the problem is

Wipe the area clean with alcohol and a clean rag, let it dry, the use a chip brush to brush on an oversized patch
I do this every time a bad storm comes through and steals another one of my shingles. (I'm just putting off reframing the roof until later this year)

[Anonymous No.2629694]

>>2625350
Just touch up the paint
Literally no one will every notice
If the paint doesn't quite match, paint the whole thing and play stupid if anyone asks about it

[Anonymous No.2629695]

>>2629678
I was going to help, but fucking hate anime so goddamn much I decided against it.

[Anonymous No.2629696]

When is it reasonable to replace your wetvac filter? Mine looks like it might have some mold growing on it, but it's still working. Any opinions?

[Anonymous No.2629699]

>>2625813
Similar
I would go full post frame on a solid poured concrete foundation
It's cheaper and you can insulate better

[Anonymous No.2629700]

>>2626151
For rechargeable, you want one with a separate battery pack that can be swapped when it goes bad. I have one with a battery like a drill and can reorder and easily swap the battery at any time
Dyson's have notoriously bad batteries

[Anonymous No.2629702]

>>2626629
It's better to point towards where you walk in the attic for service
Buy an insulated 4" duct and use screw duct clamps and/or screws to attach the duct on each side.
Your fan won't work right choking it down to 3". I would guess your roof vent will take a 4" duct anyway

[Anonymous No.2629704]

>>2626629
Don't forget to put the insulation back when you're done
No one wants a cold bath in the winter

[Anonymous No.2629706]

>>2629681
You mean these things, right? The curtain rod I got actually came with them.

[Anonymous No.2629708]

>>2629700
just hack on your tool battery of choice once the internal battery wears out

[Anonymous No.2629709]

>>2626639
I would just use clear silicone after cleaning the stain off
You can buy clear polyester resin from US composites , but you'd need to build your grade then do a thin coat with nonskid mixed in

[Anonymous No.2629710]

>>2629708

[Anonymous No.2629711]

>>2626675
Just accept that it'll be wonky and just take your time laying the bricks to get the best look

[Anonymous No.2629712]

>>2629706
yes,screw or hammer the anchors in first then put in the screw into the anchor and drill them in.

[Anonymous No.2629714]

>>2626934
You dejuiced the capacitor
Unplug it, clean the motherboard and hope it didn't short out
Look up replacement parts for your units and order that piece and swap it out

[Anonymous No.2629715]

>>2626864
Kek
1:1 means volume
You also might have forgotten to stir each part before mixing

[Anonymous No.2629716]

>>2626991
Please God no
Those tack pads are made to be pressed on in a large press from both sides
Take another board and sister on with as much overlap, glue and screws as possible

[Anonymous No.2629717]

>>2627511
More torque, but more emissions

[Anonymous No.2629718]

>>2627846
Menards has a full aisle of compatible stuff.
Go nuts

[Anonymous No.2629722]

>>2628357
Poly trim and just fill the cavity with mastic so you don't have to drill it And solve the pest problem

Also caulk around it, maybe caulk before also

[Anonymous No.2629724]

>>2628361
BIN primer the walls and replace all carpet
You fucking destroyed the place the first time your lazy ass wouldn't step outside to be retarded

[Anonymous No.2629726]

>>2628385
Make one

>>2628645
Knipex is good all around
I buy cheap wrenches but never ones with sloppy joints. I've broken too many shit ones

Knipex and Doyle have the strongest steel

[Anonymous No.2629727]

>>2629712
So after making the big giant hole with the 1/4, I have to screw the anchors into there somehow? Then just screw the screw into them? Do I have that order right? Drill hole -> insert/screw anchor -> screw screw into anchor?

[Anonymous No.2629728]

>>2628734
I break batteries with stems. If Ryobi would have waited one gen to go full retard on their lineup, they'd have a lot more customers

I use Kobalt for my work horses and Worx for my light duty stuff kobalt is similar performance to DeWalt, Bosch, red boiz, but significantly cheaper

No specialty tools tho

[Anonymous No.2629730]

>>2629112
If you're in the US, it was illegal for them to take it unless negotiated in the sale
Anything attached to the house stays with the house unless outlined
Tell your agent you'll take them to small claims court unless they provide you with a reasonable replacement

[Anonymous No.2629733]

>>2629501
Open the flue around the evaporator coil and clean the whole drip tray
You have mold/dust piled up in the water
Make sure you tape the thing back together
Also. Replace your filter you mong

[Anonymous No.2629734]

>>2629730
That happened to my neighbor and I forget what happened but they had to get all new shit as well because the dude who sold it to them pulled it all out of the house.

[Anonymous No.2629735]

>>2629584
A/c generally sizing is in tons
I'm pretty sure it refers to air weight/hour or something
A small house could be 1.5ton while a mansion could be 10 ton

[Anonymous No.2629736]

>>2629696
I replace often
Vacs are nasty

>>2629706
The 1/4" hole was for the provided anchors lmaooooooo
If you hit a framing screw, you need to move the bracket away from the window

[Anonymous No.2629737]

>>2629734
I'm always amazed at the shit people try to pull
Quit being an entitled piece of shit and accept the deal you made

[Anonymous No.2629738]

>>2629736
Okay, so I AM supposed to drill with the 1/4 bit first, right? Then the anchor comes afterward, followed by the screw, correct?

I'm not quite sure how to screw the anchor into the hole though. Should I just use a flathead for that?

[Anonymous No.2629764]

>>2629738
Stick the anchor in and then it should be snug enough to put the screw into the anchor normally with whatever type of screwdriver you need

[Anonymous No.2629772]

>>2628981
Bandsaws aren't that dangerous, if you're not a complete spastic - just keep limbs away from the blade. The only thing to not do is bind up the blade, like using the wrong blade for the material you're cutting, or having the blade bind and come off the pulleys, and snap.
Just read the booklet that comes with it, and know it's limits - what bands to use with what materials, minimum curve for each blade, etc. It's not especially complicated. Biggest issue I've ever run across is cheap fuckers who insist on using dulled blades.

[Anonymous No.2629774]

>>2629251
Wire will snap before you get the things started. Just go buy some rope, it's fucking cheap.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2629785]

>>2629533
The wetvac works too. When I was a young’n renting the first place and the line got clogged, landlord sent an AC guy and that’s what he told me to do. Make sure you remove the cap or a fitting at the other end.

It works for the soft organic crap but not the deposits if you have those.

[Anonymous No.2629821]

>>2629764
I don't get this. I'm supposed to screw this in, right? It's not supposed to just stick out like this, is it?

[Anonymous No.2629825]

>>2629727
yes
>>2629821
>I'm supposed to screw this in, right? It's not supposed to just stick out like this, is it?
yes your suppose to screw it in, you can also drill it in with a philips head and if it still won't go in you can get a hammer and CAREFULLY hammer it in or a rubber mallet and give it a smack or two.

[Anonymous No.2629832]

>>2626253
It would be extremly painful

[Anonymous No.2629843]

>>2629825
I deleted the post because I kinda changed my mind and threw my hands up in the air was like, "I don't fucking know what's going on." I actually checked YouTube, and according to one video you can just screw those anchors right in without any drilling. Didn't seem to work in my case, but thanks to my idiocy, I already had a big hole to work with. I actually managed to get the anchor screwed into the wall, so that's some small progress.

Unfortunately, it seems to stop eventually. Apparently the hole isn't deep enough for the anchor, but I can't drill any farther. From what I read, you can drill through metal, but I have no idea if I'm hitting metal, or concrete, or something else. I've already made 3 holes so far, and if I can't get one of these any deeper, I'm going to end up turning the area around my window into Swiss cheese. Since I'm putting up a curtain, hopefully that'll cover that up.

Thank god my apartment company allows you to do this sort of thing or I'd probably be fucked.

[Anonymous No.2629852]

>>2626864
curing temperature?

[Anonymous No.2629897]

Looking to make a model for 3d printing. Ideally looking for a tool that will let me punch in some h/w/d measurement. Ideally open source

[Anonymous No.2630070]

>9 volt DC output
>USB logo
>Obviously not compliant
Is this lawsuit material? I'm not gonna but if I plugged this into a USB device and destroyed it would I or the USB-IF be able to sue them?

[Anonymous No.2630083]

why do punches come in every standard size? why would the punch size matter when it's just for making a dent for starting a hole or pilot hole?
when would you ever need all the in-between sizes?

[Anonymous No.2630095]

>>2630083
If you mean a center punch, didn't even know they came in different sizes. If you mean a hole punch, those typically aren't intended for making pilot holes unless I'm mistaken

[Anonymous No.2630108]

>>2630070
The usb consortium in theory should be able to sue them for improper usage of the logo regardless if you damage anything or not.
If you have material damage you may have been able to recover losses before you posted about it online.

[Anonymous No.2630110]

>>2630108
That's about what I was thinking then

[Anonymous No.2630149]

are there any good alternatives to Lego Technics for teaching kids about mechanical concepts and making basic vehicles?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2630175]

>>2630149
K’nex is pretty cool I guess. I remember there being some store at the mall when I was a kid that had all sorts of shit like that, I vaguely remember it being like the Discovery Channel store? Does a place like that still exist?

Might be able to find a good hobby shop in your area too.

[Anonymous No.2630361]

So I bought a really cheap hanging sofa on a whim and it's supposed to hang from two ropes. Problem being that I'm not allowed to drill into the ceiling because it's an apartment. I was thinking that maybe a swingset frame could work but the ideal solution is ceiling mounted. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.2630384]

>>2624298
I made a thread but it might be too niche. Does anyone know anything about Cast Stone? I can't even find a recipe. Barring that, does anyone know how to research this sort of thing? I'm a zoomer, so as soon as I exhaust the internet search bars I'm completely lost.

[Anonymous No.2630444]

>>2630384
Look up how to make roman concrete blocks.

[Anonymous No.2630465]

Does rice paste/glue go moldy inside some project? If I use it to glue crap together, could it go bad in humidity or something?

[Anonymous No.2630508]

Is cricut maker good? I'd want to make shit with wood but can't do anything other than carve and whittle in my small apartment. Laser would be nice but no possibility of ventilation. If you can't sleep next to someone working then it's not possible for me (dust and toxic gas lingering in the air)

[Anonymous No.2630538]

>>2630508
Brother is level evil than Cricut. You're not cutting anything thicker than wood veneer and even that is pretty generous. I cut some cork and rubber gasket material on my wife's brother and that went good. Two or three passes I think.

[Anonymous No.2630540]

>>2630538
Can't you even carve thicker stuff?

[Anonymous No.2630560]

>>2630540
Up to 3mm

[Anonymous No.2630682]

So this whole goddamn time, if I had a 1/4 screw, I needed to use an entirely different drill bit? I thought I saw that before, but I had people telling me, "No, you use a 1/4 drill bit for a 1/4 screw." God-fucking-damnit, no wonder why the holes I was drilling were way too big for them. Son of a bitch.

[Anonymous No.2630715]

I'm not savvy with this shit. I somehow lost a drill bit from what I'm pretty sure is the set in pic related, specifically the .116 inch. I want to replace it without buying a whole new set, but I have no idea how to avoid cheap garbage (my father recommended this set). Can you help my dumb ass?

[Anonymous No.2630775]

Recommend a welding video that will teach me how to stick weld

[Anonymous No.2630825]

>>2624298
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgOEeSBiefU

Is this really how foundations are made? What is the gravel for? Why not just pour right onto the ground? Or even better, why do they dig holes around the sides instead of one big hole? There's a huge block of dirt in the middle it seems to me like it would be structurally stronger, and even easier, to just dig one big hole and fill it with cement...

[Anonymous No.2630860]

>>2630560
Well that's crap, what would be the best solution then for precise cutting/carving of wood automatically?

[Anonymous No.2630951]

Where do I buy replacement thermometers? This thing is from the 60s or 70s and been in the family and somehow the thermometer broke. Not gonna be picky about the numbers lining up correctly in the temperature markings, just want it to look normal. Pic related

And how does the bottom barometric thingy works?

[Anonymous No.2630956]

>>2630951
that's an aneroid barometer, it works by using a small vacuum chamber attached to a lever/needle, which changes in size based on changed in atmospheric pressure
the thermometer will have been a mercury in glass one, which works based on the thermal expansion/contraction of a bead of mercury, they are still produced, so finding a mercury thermometer with a similar size/scale you could transplant just the glass tube

[Anonymous No.2630990]

>>2630956
Thanks anon, I threw the old thermometer away in disgust, should've kept it. But cool, it apparently came from West Germany when someone was over there, looks cool but didn't want to keep a broken artifact around.

[Anonymous No.2631001]

>>2630990
The dial is in English, it's tourist crap.

[Anonymous No.2631002]

Is licensing a scam? I'm looking to buy a house that needs some work, but the 203k loan requires it to be done by a licensed contractor. But this is shit I could knock out in a week max, even with what little experience I have. Shit's stupid af.

[Anonymous No.2631005]

>>2630825
>Is this really how foundations are made?
Yes
>What is the gravel for?
Drainage and stability
>Why not just pour right onto the ground?
Because water exists
>Or even better, why do they dig holes around the sides instead of one big hole?
Because a 2' deep garage floor is a waste of time and money. They want the footings below grade, and need to be that thick, with rebar. A garage floor slab only needs to be 6". A 2' rebarred slab 24x24' would cost 4-5 times as much, minimum. And, isn't needed.

[Anonymous No.2631006]

>>2631002
No, it's not a scam, it for banks who don't want to risk loaning money to a retard like you who will "fix" a crap pile that will fall over or burn down, so when you inevitabley default on the loan, they get a house back, that can be sold.

Don't like it? Raise $200k on your own. Solves all your problems.

[Anonymous No.2631023]

Trying to figure out how to replicate this. Artist's material is simply "polyvinyl resin glue + watercolor/alcohol inks" however it has to be water soluble if watercolor works, right? Anyone know what I could use? Trying to avoid pure resin because I have to make several batches. Looking for something anti-yellowing and good clarity (formula and technique for the milky look are kept secret unfortunately.)

[Anonymous No.2631087]

>>2631005
Can you explain the drainage aspect? How is gravel helping drainage if the gravel is covered in cement.

So it's to cut costs and because the siding is really only required to go that low for stability... 1

[Anonymous No.2631246]

>>2624298
Please help bros:

I was helping my friend mount a TV and I found out he had metal studs. I had to get toggle bolts because the lag screws he had would not hold.

I attempted to drill 4 1/2inch holes for the mount. The first one drilled in fine.

When I drilled the second one, the bit stalled. I saw that there was a screw in the wall. Like someone had previously drilled it in and then plastered over it.

I think drilling into this screw destroyed my drill bit because I mangled the 2 other holes I tried to drill.
Can you please help me

1. Decide whether to somehow fix the mangled holes or work around them
2. Understand what went wrong
3. If I drill new holes higher on the studs, how do I cover up the mangled holes?

[Anonymous No.2631347]

>>2631246
metal frames are screwed together, so if you're unlucky, you might run into a screw when attempting to fix something to the wall, you'll just have to use another spot
get some plaster to fill in the unusable hole, sand it flat, and paint over it

[Anonymous No.2631350]

>>2631347
Are there any stud finders that prevent this type of scenario? Or are they too low strength for this?

[Anonymous No.2631353]

>>2631350
well idk how you'd find specifically metal screws on a metal stud
but where the studs intersect is where the screws will be, so you could use that
plasterboard is also typically screwed into the studs, so there's that, too, where they are depends on who installed it

[Anonymous No.2631444]

>>2630860
>>2630508
help

[Anonymous No.2631448]

>>2624298
>>2631246
>>2631347
>>2631353
OK thanks, How much higher on the stud should I go to ensure it isnt weakened by the shitty quarter inch holes I already made?

[Anonymous No.2631450]

What would be the best way to go about attaching some kind of pull up bar to a thin pillar like this?

[Anonymous No.2631544]

How do I remove locking washers without damaging the underneath surface (damaging the bolt is fine but maybe it can be prevented too)?

[Anonymous No.2631728]

The fucking solenoid on my sprinkler system is rapidly turning on and off whenever power is applied. What the fuck is going on? Youtube and google have NOTHING on this

[Anonymous No.2631821]

>>2631246
>>2631347
>>2631353
Thank you bros, TV is mounted now.

[Anonymous No.2631866]

>>2624298
My grandparents recently had their HVAC system go out. My grandmother suffers from dementia, and my grandfather is 90. They're sitting in a house that's over 100 degrees right now. They told me the repair guy came and put coolant in their system and charged them $7000 for it. Didn't do a damn thing to fix it. Now they quoted them $10,000 to repair their HVAC. I don't know shit about HVAC systems, but I do know they were given a nice cooling unit to sit in front of while they wait for it to get fixed, and they definitely can't take a $17,000 hit. Is this a realistic fee they're charging? Is there anything I can do about it? Any help is appreciated, bros, a piece of me feels like they're getting ripped off. When my mother informed me, I was about ready to knock a repair man's jaw out of place. I know car mechanics have taken advantage of them before, and I don't know if I can do anything about the $7000 they already spent, but if I can stop another $10,000 from going down the drain, that would be great.

[Anonymous No.2631914]

Why did he turn off the comments? What did he get wrong?

[Anonymous No.2631956]

>>2631866
They were bamboozled
$7000 for a repair is nonsense.
That's approaching retrofit install money. The 17k is also nonsense.

[Anonymous No.2632272]

Would breeze home from skyrim be a nice cabin irl?

[Anonymous No.2632274]

>>2632272

[Anonymous No.2632286]

>>2632272
breeze home a big gay, you should build a modern version of an ancient roman house, bonus points if you have a covered plaza in the middle.