/3dpg/ - Antique Garbage Edition

[Anonymous No.2623019]

Last Thread: >>2617875

All the outdated info you don't need about /3Dpg/-printing (Last updated 900 days ago): https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>Calibrate your printer.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [32/72/5 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, these are just popular and available options, don't buy a $1000 bedslinger:
Up to 200 USD: Kingroon KP3S, Sovol SV01, Voxelab Aquila X2, Anycubic Kobra Neo, ELEGOO Neptune 2S, Malyan M300/Monoprice Mini Delta
Up to 300 USD: Kingroon KP3S Pro/Pro S1, Sovol SV06, Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo, Elegoo Neptune 3
Up to 400 USD: Creality Ender 3 S1, Sovol SV01 Pro, Artillery Sidewinder SW-X2
Up to 500 USD: Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro, Prusa MINI+, FLSUN Super Racer
Up to 500 USD Large-Format: Anycubic Kobra Max, Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
Up to 800 USD: Bambu Lab P1P, Prusa MK4 kit
Over 1000 USD: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon, Ultimaker, Lulzbot, Raise3D
DIY: Voron, Rat Rig, Ultimaker/2/3, https://reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: Creality HALOT-ONE/LD-002H, Anycubic Photon Mono/X/4K, Elegoo Mars 3/Saturn 2, Formlabs Form 3/3L

>Where can I get things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://printables.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://cults3d.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCAD
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for P1P/X1 owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

[Anonymous No.2623029]

I'm still working on the Dead Bug Rednet OGGAF super-printer. Going extremely well, I've gone well beyond my original goals for it.
One day you too could make the poor decision to combine two Ender 3s into a single upside-down cross-gantry nightmare.

I hate this part though. I'm calling it the effector, because that's a cool name for it.

Totally fucking uninspired. I've got nothing. This setup "works" but I think it's fucking gross and I'm just staring at it trying to decide how to do the v-wheel tensioners.
I really, really despise the little offset nut things they use. I've already made carriages for other shit that do away with it and go to a single adjustment screw, makes v-wheels 100x better, seriously those little offset adjuster nuts are easily the worst thing about v-wheels.

Shockingly I haven't found anyone else who's made cross-gantry kinematics with v-slots and v-wheels, can't imagine why that is.

[Anonymous No.2623039]

Shelf fit nice and snug, I wanted it to fit miku and her car though. I should have took it out the box instead of just guessing

[Anonymous No.2623040]

>Prusa Firmware Changelog
>When printing large and heavy objects, PrusaSlicer / MK4 firmware will automatically adjust settings as the height/weight of the object increases during printing

Bedslinger compensation. They're implementing bedslinger compensation for their overpriced bedslingers. About fuckin' time because people have been doing this with post-processors for a decade now.

[Anonymous No.2623059]

>>2623029
Considered using a different hot end? Or going direct drive? There's less downside to a heavy moving part with this design.

[Anonymous No.2623060]

Got new wheels and printed new axles
It rips now without issue
It's a bit of a pig desu but you kinda need the traction

[Anonymous No.2623062]

>>2623059
Oh it's going to be direct drive, the V6 there is just sort of a stand-in while I think about the thing.
Plus the parts are cheap and I have piles of V6 shit laying around.
I've just not gotten far with the "effector" here yet, I've basically just been staring at it. I've a couple more complete iterations, but I hate them that much more.

[Anonymous No.2623067]

i saw these filament welders but using them seems very finicky and unreliable.
wouldnt it be way easier to just have a small metal tube with a hole the diameter of your filament, put it in a vice, push the filaments in from both sides and heat up the tube itself while pushing the filament together?
instead, these filament welders are used by having the filament be heated up on the outside and then quickly shoved into the hole.

[Anonymous No.2623087]

>>2623067
>wouldnt it be way easier to just have a small metal tube with a hole the diameter of your filament
You kinda want to see the filament as it's melting.
If you can't see it you'll just end up with a melted glob of filament stuck in a tube if you're not 100% exacting in your application of heat.

It's one of those things where you could make a better splicer, but you have to ask at some point is it worth it to use ends of a spool where colors might be mismatched, and it can never be respooled reliably.

[Anonymous No.2623092]

>>2623087
would probably be easier to just keep it in a trash bag and eventually invest in a filament recycler. or just throw it away

[Anonymous No.2623096]

>>2623092
Or wait till more bambu AMS clones come out.
Arguably this should just be a printer firmware feature to allow filament to go past the runout sensor to finish its line of gcode before retracting and alerting to swap filament. Assuming they don't already do this.

Should also be a variable to set the distance between the runout sensor and extruder so the printer knows exactly how much material is left after the sensor and you can get waste down to almost nothing

[Anonymous No.2623097]

With this owl I finally got rid of that cursed sunlu silk silver roll

[Anonymous No.2623098]

im playing around with an anycubic photon ultra, and the software from the website does not seem to have the preset machine settings input? im looking at the manual and its not super clear, i think i know what to put in, but any idea why its not in the list and if anyones already figured what the defaults are?

[Anonymous No.2623099]

Got some ERYONE silk pla. I’m trying to find the correct settings to get this to stick to my print bed. Printing with an Ender 3 S1 Plus. So far nothing I’ve done will get it to stick. Any advice? Tia

[Anonymous No.2623100]

>>2623098
Check the anycubic website. I’ve got a photon mono that I never use.

[Anonymous No.2623105]

>>2623097
these low poly animals seem like very nice house decor, i gave a cat book stopper to my sister and a guinea pig to one of my friends

[Anonymous No.2623106]

>>2623100
yeah, thats where i got it, i think they mixed them up because the option for photon ultra is just gone

[Anonymous No.2623108]

>>2623106
i know the usb stick with the original version has it, but i cant find the usb stick anymore.

[Anonymous No.2623110]

>>2623099
Silk seems to like heat.

[Anonymous No.2623114]

>>2623108
>>2623098
"solved" it. just downloaded the entire slicer instead of the slicer on the photon ultras support page. its got it, so i can move the values over if i really want to.

[Anonymous No.2623253]

>>2623029
It fits, it meets all the stupid requirements I have, it's cheap and I have the parts laying around anyway.
Fuck I hate it, I hate it so fucking much it's so gross god dammit.

[Anonymous No.2623257]

>>2623253
All good things are ending.

[Anonymous No.2623259]

>>2623257
>>2623253
>releasing unfinished goods
anon

[Anonymous No.2623261]

>>2623259
Don't tempt me to post all of the others.
There are several, each worse than the last.

[Anonymous No.2623265]

>>2623029
>>2623059
Should the wheels be further apart for more rigidity if it's going to be direct? I'd then add some diagonal braces between the plusses. With that, plus all the fan-holding and ducting, you should end up with something that looks decent. Maybe try to aim for one of those high-stickout setups, for non-trivial nonplanar printing angles.
Actually I bet non-planar ABS is going to be a specific niche, since you can do away with part cooling altogether.

Are you going to somehow combine both driver boards in a master-slave setup (like someone mentioned last thread) to allow for independant driving of Z steppers?

>>2623257
Even if that piece is ABS, will it handle the heat from the other side of the heat-brake?

[Anonymous No.2623271]

>>2623265
>Should the wheels be further apart for more rigidity
Will avoid at all costs. This is actually a wider and more stable layout than any before at, at the expense of size.
My early tests were all done with a much less stable layout and it was still *excellent*, waaay better than I ever expected.
Keeping within the 72x72mm square gives me enough travel for a lot of weird and fun shit.

>Even if that piece is ABS, will it handle the heat from the other side of the heat-brake?
Oh fuck yes, I've printed a shitload of hotend mounts for printers over the years, usually in PETG, more recently ASA. Not one problem, even when printing ASA with a PETG V6 bayonet mount in an enclosure at 40C. So long as the heatsink is being cooled effectively, the mounting side typically won't exceed 15C over ambient even with print temps of 260C.

>Are you going to somehow combine both driver boards in a master-slave setup (like someone mentioned last thread) to allow for independant driving of Z steppers?
I'd love to. Hell it'd be pretty straightforward with Klipper.
But I have an MKS Monster 8 loaded with TMC2226s just laying around, so fuck all that.

[Anonymous No.2623274]

>>2623261
no post everything, fuck everyone

[Anonymous No.2623291]

>>2623271
Oh I see, the X only provides downward tension, while the Y only provides upwards tension. If the extrusions are sufficiently rigid, then this is much more elegant than using 3 rollers for each axis.
Maybe V-rollers are actually kinda based. Wonder if anyone's successfully 3D printed then?

>So long as the heatsink is being cooled effectively, the mounting side typically won't exceed 15C over ambient even with print temps of 260C.
Didn't know they were that good, neat. Any issues with other 3D printed parts, like stepper mounts, when printing ABS or ASA in an enclosed printer?

>But I have an MKS Monster 8 loaded with TMC2226s just laying around, so fuck all that.
Fair enough, but I'd still make mounting holes for both boards if you plan on publishing the design.
Bought a bunch of 2209s myself to make a custom 6 or 8 driver board for future CNC projects. Are 2226s that much better? Lots of stepper outputs and advanced drivers take a lot of I/O pins, maybe I'd be better off just using a cheaper MCU and only 4 drivers, but with pins to stack multiple together to let klipper do its thing.

I can't remember, will you just be using 2 Z screws, or will you be doing more than that (with Z belts?) to get active levelling?

[Anonymous No.2623293]

>>2623291
>X only provides downward tension, while the Y only provides upwards tension
Dumb idea. Pretension would wary in different toolhead positions.
Why not use a chink linear rails? No extrusions just bare MGN15 rails. They are noticeably better in quality than smaller 9 or 12 variants.

[Anonymous No.2623294]

>>2623293
the whole point of his project is to reuse parts from two ender 3s

[Anonymous No.2623296]

>>2623293
>>2623294
>the whole point of his project is to reuse parts from two ender 3s
Exactly that. I'm using parts I keep on hand, shit I have laying around, and everything I can get from the two Ender 3s.

>>2623293
>Dumb idea. Pretension would wary in different toolhead positions.
I'm not sure what you mean by this. Why would it vary? Errors introduced when squaring and tramming the machine? Flex in the extrusions?

[Anonymous No.2623297]

>>2623291
> in an enclosed printer
The big one is stepper mounts. Steppers can run HOT, without additional cooling or sufficient airflow they can reach 50C over ambient, which is usually about the safe limit for the motor. So in a hot enclosure it is possible to break 100C at a stepper mount, but that shouldn't happen normally to be honest. Unless you're really pushing steppers in a particularly hot enclosure, it's not usually an issue. If you've got a particularly hot enclosure and push some high speeds, that just means a need to actively cool your steppers, not a big deal.

Beyond that, part-cooling fans, they can be so close to the nozzle and practically wrapped around the heater that they can fucked in an enclosure.

These are the first two things that usually die when someone sticks a Prusa in an enclosure and gets it past 40C, along with their warranty and wallet.

[Anonymous No.2623298]

>>2623291
The 2209s and 2226s are functionally identical, it's the same driver in a different IC package.

[Anonymous No.2623300]

>>2623291
>Any issues with other 3D printed parts, like stepper mounts, when printing ABS or ASA in an enclosed printer?
Abs parts will hold just fine in 65C chamber. Just add some cork/fr4/nylon spacers under steppers.
65C is the limit for a passively heated chamber. Only achievable with large ultimaker-style printers with 5mm of self-adhered insulation and 110C bed.

[Anonymous No.2623319]

>>2623296
I suspect he means flex in the extrusions. In the middle they'll be slightly further apart than at the corners. I think he's right that the slight flex of the extrusions could cause issues, in particular the flex as the toolhead is partway towards the centre will bend the direction the tool is pointing in. You can probably pretty easily calculate the amount of deflection of the nozzle as a function of the forces involved, and I imagine it's a non-issue, but you never know.

>>2623297
Yeah I was wondering about active stepper cooling. I guess ideally you just mount them outside the enclosure, it would be pretty doable with lead-screw steppers if you're making a custom chassis anyhow. Can probably get core-xy steppers outside the enclosure too, same for bed-belt steppers. Crossed gantry though, probably not doable.

>>2623298
Good to know.

>>2623300
>65C is the limit for a passively heated chamber.
I assumed having a seperate heater for the bed was standard, but maybe I'm being retarded. Would be reasonably simple to have a heater and an external ventilation fan for heating and cooling of an enclosure, plus an additional internal fan to keep the air well mixed and all at the same temperature. Can never have too many mosfets on your board.

Any printers with printed parts out there cranking out PEEK I wonder? Sounds to me like the next filament up the tech tree can be printed with parts made out of the previous filament.

[Anonymous No.2623337]

>>2623319
>Would be reasonably simple to have a heater and an external ventilation fan for heating and cooling of an enclosure
Why? Just open the the lid when printing toy-grade materials.
Forced air circulation inside the chamber is bad unless your chamber temp is barely (15C) bellow TG temp. Forced cooling after the print is also bad.
>Sounds to me like the next filament up the tech tree can be printed with parts made out of the previous filament.
PA-GF30HT is rated at 140C, could be printed on a generic bedslinger and oven to dry it. But there is lots of other issues. It might be easier to fully separate moving parts from the heated chamber it you need temps above 80C.

[Anonymous No.2623368]

>bought a Neptune 3 Pro a month ago
>new and improved models releasing now
god dammit

[Anonymous No.2623382]

>>2623368
Such as? I'm literally buying a Neptune 3 Pro next week most likely. Still undecided.

[Anonymous No.2623391]

>>2623382
Honestly the biggest thing for me is improved ABL and manual leveling knobs, but I'm sure aficionados are gonna do better comparisons in the coming days.

[Anonymous No.2623397]

My ender 3 is driving me nuts with some clicking sound coming out of the bed, I haven't figured out what the fuck it is yet, almost like a squeaking chair, but metal. Long y axis movements make it really go clickety clack, I'm suspecting it's the shoddy springs, it's printing something now and I can easily move the bed several mm's up and down by lightly pressing on any side, really fucked up, lol. Anyone ever had it click like a motherfucker? And no it's not the extruder, I only get search results back for the ender 3 extruder making clicking noises, not the bed, yeah, one reddit result with a guy having his nozzle too close to the bed, other than that not much, not that I have looed very long, but whatever. Just wanted to share this really. My ender is driving me nuts. How are you guys?

[Anonymous No.2623399]

is it possible to print petg without all metal hotend? i just have the normal shitty one with the ptfe tube

[Anonymous No.2623405]

>>2623368
>>2623382
The new Neptune 4 ($260) and Neptune 4 Pro ($300). The Neptune 3 is currently $210 and the Neptune 3 Pro is $230. Screaming deal in my opinion.
The new Neptune 4 / Pro are both running Klipper out of the box, both have ABL and bed knobs (lol this is advertised as a feature), new improved extruder, now direct drive on both models rather than just Pro, runout sensor on both models, aaand that's about it. It's not exactly a big list of differences.
Running Klipper is the biggest difference by far.

>>2623399
>is it possible to print petg without all metal hotend?
Sure, but you shouldn't. Plenty of PETG prints fine at a safe 230C, but lots of it doesn't perform well under 250C, so you're gambling a little here with what you buy.
You should upgrade to all-metal, it costs less than a roll of filament to never worry about the neurological damage you're causing with your PTFE-lined hotend.
All-metal hotends are fucking sweet and have effectively no downsides at this point, it's not 2013 anymore when steel heatbreaks were causing constant jams with PLA.

>>2623397
Adjust your eccentric wheels on the y-axis, check the v-wheels individually when you do. The excessive play could come from the wheels not being tensioned correctly, which can certainly cause some noise. Could also mean flat spots or dying bearings on those wheels.

[Anonymous No.2623412]

>>2623405
>>2623391
Damn broh's should I hold out? 3djake don't have the Neptune 4 yet.

[Anonymous No.2623414]

>>2623412
Meh, it's an upgrade but so what?
It's Klipper on a bedslinger, you're not going to get much faster than you do with Marlin nowadays between Input Shaping and Linear Advance.
If it were *not* a bedslinger I'd be jumping at it, but otherwise why pay the difference in price?
You can pick up a board to run Klipper any day for $25-$35, effectively upgrading your Neptune 3 to a Neptune 4 for slightly less money.

[Anonymous No.2623415]

>>2623405
>You should upgrade to all-metal
i have some no-name chink printer that is several years old i doubt they even sell all metal hoteands for it, or are they universal so they fit on any printer kinda like nozzles?

[Anonymous No.2623417]

>>2623414
I don't know what any of this means to be honest. I'm relying on you guys to tell me what to do step by step. Assuming I don't wait for the 4, when I order my 3 Pro should I get a Klipper board as well?

[Anonymous No.2623419]

>>2623415
What's your printer.

>>2623417
>when I order my 3 Pro should I get a Klipper board as well?
No, stop spending money on shit that isn't the printer. You bought a printer, a great printer, print with it, spend your money on filament.

[Anonymous No.2623423]

>>2623419
But you said Klipper is godlike and a must have...

[Anonymous No.2623425]

>>2623423
Only retards and faggots who have no idea what they're talking about believe that.

[Anonymous No.2623431]

>>2623423
Not the anon you replied to, klipper supports alot of controller boards, theres literally controller boards using same chipset that a generic config would work with it, you would have to customize it for your pins, BUT thats assuming you dont find one someone already made.

my kingroon kp3s didn't have a config, the closest one was robin-nano board because
>1. kp3s board is based off of it so pins are identical
>2. same chipset as well, which is a clone of STM32f.

its not so much a board that supports it, most of it is around the chipset being supported.

>>2623425
I mean I find it a lot more convenient to add bltouch and all I have to do in klipper is edit config file through webui, unlike marlin I have to change the settings in the .h file, triple check everything, reflash the board, bltouch doesnt work, you find out you missed something, have to start over, and reflash the board

Klipper *IS* better, people are scared to flash firmware once, but are fine to inconvenience themselves and do it multiple times.

[Anonymous No.2623432]

running out of useful things to print here

[Anonymous No.2623433]

>>2623417
Anon, dont buy a board, I just looked up the printer you're interested in, it has a 32bit STM32f board already in it, you would literally be wasting money, and it seems the neptune uses board similar to my kingroon I mentioned here. >>2623431

BTW anon there is a printer config, read the comment out section at the top.
>https://github.com/TheFeralEngineer/Klipper-for-Elegoo-Neptune-series-3D-Printers/blob/main/Neptune%203%20Pro%20config/printer.cfg

[Anonymous No.2623434]

>>2623423
It has some features that are useful if you want to print really fast, or if you like to tinker. However, it can't overcome physical limitations, and if the printer does what you need out of the box it isn't worth modding.

Odds are very good this printer is going to do what you need. It would be wise to use it as is until it no longer fits your purposes.

[Anonymous No.2623441]

So you guys are saying I should not buy the Neptune and I should instead wait for the 4? Ok got it thanks.

[Anonymous No.2623444]

hmm my petg fillament says the print temperature range is 230-250 and max temp for my ptfe nozzle is listed as 230... so fuck it i will set it to 231 and try it

[Anonymous No.2623466]

So when's the Neptune 4 coming out again?

[Anonymous No.2623470]

>>2623466
I'll just ask them myself I guess.

[Anonymous No.2623495]

Why the FUCK doesn't the sprite extruder work with the Ender 3 Neo? God damn chinamen
>>2623432
I made a few of these for family members. They are neat

[Anonymous No.2623546]

>5h print failed because stock E3 extruder started to choke

[Anonymous No.2623547]

>>2623067
I've been using this thing. It works really well. Not much of a hassle to use
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5505014

[Anonymous No.2623552]

Update on my bearings. They printed great and spin well. I'm doing this on a Voxelab Aquila X2 (ender 3 clone). So far I'm very happy with this printer, it's my first one and one I got off of one of those returned items resales. It came perfect with no faults at all, everything still in it's plastic.

I wanted to ask on some opinions for cable chains. I want a cable chain mainly for maintenance purposes but I've heard that 3D printed cable chains are all trash and weigh the gantry unnecessarily, are too stiff and end up damaging the cables rather than keeping them more protected. From what I can tell you can buy professional cable chains which arent too expensive and are superior in every way (weight, flexibility). Does anyone have any experience with these? Anything to recommend?

[Anonymous No.2623579]

>>2623060
Is that 1/0th scale?

[Anonymous No.2623591]

I am brand new to 3D printing and for my first project I want to make one of those cornyass lithophane lanterns. I'm sure all of you have been there before.

[Anonymous No.2623594]

>>2623060
Also which filament did you use? My dad has these 1/8th scale short course stadium trucks we race around the yard and I was wondering what parts I could 3D print for them that would hold up.

[Anonymous No.2623716]

>>2623594
nta, make everything. when i get around to it, thats what my plan is. i want to basically build each type of suspension and whatever to learn about them and end up with a bunch of new parts.

[Anonymous No.2623717]

>>2623591
sorta the first thing my folks wanted. made some lithographs of my grandma when she passed

[Anonymous No.2623721]

>>2623594
it's 1/10
I used a myriad of filaments. ABS, PETG, nylon and TPU but the tarmo 5 design only calls for PLA and TPU
RC cars as also made of various materials, I know some higher end ones are made of a glass fiber filled nylon, some cheaper ones might just use ABS or polycarbonate.

>>2623591
>>2623717
I wanna do the color ones, takes 10 hours for one on a bambu but it takes nothing for filament

[Anonymous No.2623807]

>>2623591
You remind me I have a lampshade to design and print. Should I go for a celestial body?

I also kinda want to make an edgy lamp, with greenish/bluish lights in the middle and red lights around the outside, so everything has a red outline to its shadow even though the light looks white. The red rings of Saturn, maybe.

[Anonymous No.2623823]

>>2623552
You summed it up. Most printed ones are garbage, finding good ones and then actually printing them well enough that they work well and worth using is more of an affair than most people expect. It's really easy to think you've hit the nail on the head but actually be left with a shitty cable chain that will eventually rape an wire.
Even cheap Chinese cable chain is at least consistent, smooth, and likely a copy of a design from a legitimate company.
For reddit points, print a spinal chain, but for real usage just buy some cheap chinese cable chain.

[Anonymous No.2623835]

>>2623405
>Adjust your eccentric wheels on the y-axis, check the v-wheels individually when you do. The excessive play could come from the wheels not being tensioned correctly, which can certainly cause some noise. Could also mean flat spots or dying bearings on those wheels.
Yeah, it's the v-wheels, I've recently ordered a v-wheel carriage from china and it came in today, makes the same clickety sound when it's not tightened correctly. I really thought it'd be the springs, still thinking about replacing them, they look flimsy as hell to me. Can probably make some better ones myself by wrapping some wire around a rod a bunch of times.

[Anonymous No.2623836]

>>2623552 Cable chains looks neat but heavy and cumbersome to mount and wire.
Get some self wrapping sleeves. Its simple, light and easy to maintain. For the toolhead put both ptfe and wires in the same sleeve. It will hold itself just fine with both ends pointing upwards. When height is limited make a guide like this.
https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/601-bowden-tube-guide/
https://www.printables.com/model/350714-bambu-lab-ptfe-guide
https://www.amazon.co.uk/shinfly-Management-Adhesive-Flame-retardant-Protector-Black-3M/dp/B09L449YQ9

[Anonymous No.2623931]

>>2623835
Oh and fuck those springs.
The standard upgrade is the cast yellow springs you see on Amazon and Ali, they're stiffer and they are an upgrade.
Better though, silicone spacers/standoffs, they work great and they're much more stable than springs.
Even better, solid mounting on Nylon spacers, but this eliminates the adjustment knobs, you just shim the bed to get it nice and level and rely on ABL from then on. For a bedslinger though, personally I'd take the silicone over the nylon.

[Anonymous No.2623932]

3Dpig bros is the Neptune 4 out yet? I'm thinking of buying tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.2623941]

You owe me loyalty.

[Anonymous No.2623958]

>>2623941
>Be glad I don't patent other peoples work.
What did he mean by that bros?

[rodrif24 No.2623962]

>>2623958
Mock me all you want, but i made your printer possible.

[Anonymous No.2623965]

>>2623962
I don't remember Jo designing the Mendel, Mendel Max, or the Wilson, the printers that all of my printers since my first Mendel have been based on.

[Anonymous No.2623968]

>>2623941
Is this Bre Pettis?

[Anonymous No.2623976]

>>2623968
Don't know, found the pics on Jos Twitter and found them basedlicious.

[Anonymous No.2623990]

Fitting for a cable gland. I'm not able to reliably print TPU. The one on the right failed as soon as the extruder had to tug more filament from the spool, which is why it's so short. I don't want to fix it right now because I was being a moron and soldered the wires to the toolhead, so it's annoying to work on, and I'm soon replacing my Sdungburner anyway. Soldering those wires was a terrible idea. I should really have used a small connector.

[Anonymous No.2623998]

>>2623300
>65C is the limit for a passively heated chamber.
mine reaches equilibrium at 75 degrees and there's lots of room for improvement.
>5mm of self-adhered insulation
that's not that hard. I bought some reflective cladding for home insulation. If you want windows everywhere then it will be more challenging.

[Anonymous No.2624053]

Anycubic has released their own unique slicer!
Jo gets them to release the source code.
Anycubic has pulled and denounced their own unique slicer after Jo points out that it's reskinned PrusaSlicer, with all attributions removed, and completely in violation of the AGPL, and has absolutely no improvements over the version of PrusaSlicer they forked!

Fucking sad chinks. I could give a shit about beardyman but I appreciate his willingness to harangue the bugs.

[Anonymous No.2624057]

>>2624053
>It still polls the Prusa servers for updates
God damn you just can't make this shit up, thanks for the entertainment China, 10/10.

[Anonymous No.2624063]

>>2623039
if only there were some way to make it again only slightly larger

[Anonymous No.2624064]

>>2623990
if only there were some way to remove solder

[Anonymous No.2624065]

>>2623962
I'm going to be a printer so that smug ass can't wear that shirt any more.

[Anonymous No.2624069]

>>2623097
god I fucking hate low poly fags. you have a nice realistic model and you reduce it to shit. you could print a real looking owl but you go for 80s computer shapes, it's faggotry at it's worst. despite that low poly fags are PROUD of reducing a nice detailed model to a few triangles as if any faggot couldn't ruin anything in exactly the same way in under 2 minutes.

[Anonymous No.2624071]

>>2623405
upgrading to an all metal hot end because you're worried is fucking stupid. I print 250C PETG all day on my little fucking monoprice delta without issue. get fucked with your fear mongering.

[Anonymous No.2624072]

>>2623432
print another printer.

[Anonymous No.2624073]

>>2623444

[Anonymous No.2624080]

>>2624063
I just printed a second one, will probably print more

[Anonymous No.2624083]

>>2624080
Do these puppets have some kind of trans folk symbolism? It means you are in hormone therapy or something?

[Anonymous No.2624084]

>>2624083
No it just means I like Steins;Gate, Chainsaw Man and Rhythm Games/Race Cars

[Anonymous No.2624087]

>>2624080
>Imaged: someone who gets no bitches

[Anonymous No.2624088]

>>2624084
None of which says anything to me, but i guess it means you aren't expressing your faggotry through tiny puppets.
Carry on then.

[Anonymous No.2624090]

>>2624088
The whole "tranime" concept is fairly recent. I'm not going to stop liking stuff I've enjoyed for decades because of some nutcases who made it their identity in recent times

[Anonymous No.2624095]

>>2624090
Hey, calm yourself. I'm not judging you for being a poofter.
I judge you for being a retard that collects children puppets.

[Anonymous No.2624165]

I want to embed an electrical circuit onto a 3d m print. Are there any conductive filaments that don't cost the same as an illicit kidney? Any alternatives without running wires? Maybe embedding copper mesh into it somehow?

[Anonymous No.2624178]

>>2624165
Conductive filaments are still a gimmick at best, their resistance is still way, way too high to be useful.
The cheap shit from China (which is still usually >$25USD/1kg) is usually over 1 Mohm / cm, useless trash.
Most of the "premium" conductive filaments aren't actually much better, getting down to around 1kohm / cm from some of the $100USD+/kg brands like Protopasta.
https://youtu.be/_lFT77de5Es?t=715

The "best" technique to my mind is just running wires, you can print channels and embed wires cleanly and compactly into prints.
I like your copper mesh idea though, I can think of some fun ways that could work.

[Anonymous No.2624272]

>>2623444
I have been printing ABS on my kingroon with the nozzle temp set a 260c, and I'm perfectly fin-ackkkkkk

[Anonymous No.2624285]

>>2624272
I hate what they did to this hotend. Their random access to cheap surplus bullshit makes for a disappointing hotend.
Also really fucking sad to see so many "experienced" and "popular" faggots think this hotend is somehow vaguely proprietary and don't recognize that it's an E3D V5 with a shitty heatbreak.
E3D V5 heater block and heatsink, with a heatbreak extended deeper into the block to allow MK8 nozzles to fit the V5 block.
Fucking TERRIBLE design choice, and it's why their steel all-metal heatbreaks jam so consistently. The titanium one is barely livable with PLA.

Cheap Chinese V6 heatsink, bi-metallic heatbreak, V6 nozzles, far better experience for <$10 from Shenzhen. Toss in another $2 for a V6 block and silicone socks. If you prefer the little MK8 nozzles, get a MK8 block instead.
The fan shroud for the heatsink will be too large for a V6 heatsink, might fit loosely, might need to print a new one.

Anyone else notice how almost all the cheap V6 heatsinks on Amazon and Ali don't have the 4.2mm through-holes their supposed to have?
They've just got a 2mm hole, even the bowden style ones god dammit China. You can run a 4.2-4.5mm or #16-#19 drill bit through it to dramatically improve the piece of shit, the existing hole makes it easy to stay centered, and the finish of the hole you drill doesn't matter once you've run the ptfe through it.

[Anonymous No.2624341]

So some of you really spent hundreds of dollars on 3D printers just to print crappy little knick-knacks and toys instead of parts for a project or something?

[Anonymous No.2624342]

>>2624341
You're in the wrong place.
>>>88979870

[Anonymous No.2624343]

>>2624342
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>/tg/88979870
why delete when i can just kill myself

[Anonymous No.2624347]

>>2624343
Don’t think I am
>>2623097
>>2623432

[Anonymous No.2624352]

>>2624347
Kids get lost sometimes.

[Anonymous No.2624363]

>>2623990
Is your TPU dry? It's apparently bad for that. Being direct drive helps a lot with it too.

[Anonymous No.2624373]

Neptune 3 Pro right this instant or wait for Neptune 4 to be in stock?

[Anonymous No.2624375]

>>2624373
It's the same printer aside from the fact that it runs Klipper, saving you the "hassle" of buying a Pi or similar to run Klipper on.
You can buy Pi clones, other SBCs, thin clients, Android set-tops boxes, all sorts of shit that can serve as a Klipper host for $20 - $35, they're readily available globally from all the usual suspects.

They're charging you $50 over the Neptune 3 for integrated Klipper, already set up and ready to go, installed inside the printer nice and neat and "professional", with a handheld touchscreen controller.
Not a bad value in my mind, if you're weighing your options then at least now you know what you're paying for.

[Anonymous No.2624378]

>>2624090
I keep telling people that eventually, the faggots will come for the things they like. No exceptions.
Reject them outright until they can behave decently.

[Anonymous No.2624380]

>>2624064
if only there were some way to remove you're mothers lips from my c*ck,
>>2624063
>>2624065
>>2624069
>>2624071
is this u samefagging, u diarrheal,, adorable little shit?

>>2624363
That's a good point. I'm moving the spool holder inside the enclosure so I'll be able to test that theory. Actually the reason I removed the panel is because the plywood had warped, so there could be a high moisture content. maybe I should get one of those temperature sensors with a humidity sensor.
>Being direct drive helps a lot with it too.
My toolhead is direct drive, I'm not confident in the setup. When I built it I was able to feel the tension but the screws have all vibrated loose and the parts are breaking. It prints ABS and I'm upgrading a bunch of stuff anyway so it's not worth the effort.

[Anonymous No.2624387]

>>2624375
Wasn't there something else about bed leveling and other improvements?

[Anonymous No.2624388]

>>2624387
The standard Neptune 3 doesn't have bed adjustment wheels, it has a solid mounted bed rather than a bed on springs. If anything, the springs are a downgrade.
It's got their new extruder, which is "different" but hardly what I'd call better, the 5.2:1 ratio is excessive, and is just going to make for noisier and less effective Linear Advance/Pressure Advance.

That's it, those are the improvements, and neither is much of an improvement.

[Anonymous No.2624393]

>>2624388
Neptune 3 Pro though, unless you're talking about that one as well. And I'm being autistic but I want to buy once. Maybe some upgrades in the future, but I'm not looking to buy any other printers in the next 5 years.

[Anonymous No.2624395]

>>2623432
>Get TPU
>Print new foreskins
>???
>Profit

[Anonymous No.2624397]

>>2624393
Then fucking buy one and stop debating.
There'll be another new printer next week, and another, and another, just like there has been for the last decade.
You could've bought a printer years ago, or 2 weeks ago, or today, but instead you're still just talking about it.
Keep thinking about the Neptune 4 and we'll see what new printers get announced while you sit on your balls and fantasize about the 3D printer that will never come.

Buy the Neptune 3 Pro, or buy the Neptune 4, it doesn't matter, you'll get comparable results from either, or just about any other similarly sized bedslinger on the market for that matter.

[Anonymous No.2624404]

>>2624397
If you were me are you buying the neptune or waiting for 4?

[Anonymous No.2624408]

>>2624404
I'd have bought the Neptune 3 Pro several days ago when this retarded back and forth started.
You should join your 3rd-world shit-tier military, you're not capable of making decisions or acting of your own volition. Military service will either fix you or kill you, it's a win/win all around.

[Anonymous No.2624411]

>>2624408
You're a bitch and you wouldn't say that to my face irl.

[Anonymous No.2624434]

>>2624285
>Fucking TERRIBLE design choice, and it's why their steel all-metal heatbreaks jam so consistently. The titanium one is barely livable with PLA.

If thats your experience, thats a user error problem AKA you.

I have a titanium alloy heatbreak with V6 on my cr10s-pro, ender 3, not a single jam. Maybe consider letting your printer stay on after a print, heat does transfer from the heatblock to the heatsink, even if you hve a bimetal heat break, all you need is 40-50C temps to soften pla, have it bulge then cool down.

If your jams are happening during printing, redo your retraction length/speed

>retraction length 2mm
>retraction speed 40mm/s

If you can disable z lift too, if you have it on because of small curls that the nozzle would hit, I would recommend lowering your fan speed, that will also help with stringing.

>Cheap Chinese V6 heatsink, bi-metallic heatbreak, V6 nozzles, far better experience for <$10 from Shenzhen. Toss in another $2 for a V6 block and silicone socks. If you prefer the little MK8 nozzles, get a MK8 block instead.

Aight, I am gonna stop you right here, I don't recommend doing this, you literally have to find a new cooling system when you switch to V6, I know this after switching my first kingroon to V6, it was much shorter than the V5, the stock part cooling fan would hit the bed way before the nozzle, the only cooling system that you can use reliably its Hermo, there was a kingroon gantry adapter remixed then released for that system.

When I bought my second kingroon, a kp3s pro, I just bought the 10 pack of all metal heatbreaks for that hotend, not going to dick around printing more abs parts. I am 99% sure I am switching my first kingroon back now that I have all metal heatbreaks.

[Anonymous No.2624538]

Which PLA filament should I buy? I wanted to get eSUN but all of the good colors are out of stock. Is Geeeeeeetech good?

[Anonymous No.2624542]

>>2624538
hatchbox, RepRapper, Sunlu, FilaCube have all been fine for me. I've had a great roll and a terrible roll from GizmoDorks. Stay away from shiny or metallic. PLA2 or PLA+ is fine, I don't put any stock in it being better. I would look for color first then brand, figure any kg ~$25 is decent, anything ~$20 is a crap shoot.

[Anonymous No.2624543]

>>2624434
>I have a titanium alloy heatbreak with V6 on my cr10s-pro
Yeah, that's a totally different hotend, with a different heatsink, heatbreak, block, and nozzles, so what does that have to do with the V5 hotend with custom heatbreak that Kingroon uses?

The problem is the unique heatbreak Kingroon used on the E3D V5 derived hotend, it's NOT a V6 heatbreak, it's NOT a V6 hotend.
The V5 with a STEEL all-metal heatbreak is a jam-o-matic piece of shit with PLA, just like anything that pairs a steel all-metal heatbreak with insufficient cooling. As I already said, the titanium one is better, but it's only barely acceptable in my opinion, it still can't push the flow-rates with PLA that it really should be able to.
Extending the heatbreak deeper into the block to facilitate the MK8 nozzles was a BAD idea from people who didn't know what they were doing.
It just makes the job of the heatbreak more challenging, they'd have been better off using V6 nozzles, or using normal V5 heatbreaks and pairing it with a MK8 block if they really wanted to use the MK8 nozzles. Either of those combos would be far better, but instead we've got a V5 hotend with a custom/unique heatbreak and MK8 nozzles, terrible combo.

Also, 2mm retraction would be insane for that setup, 0.5-1.0 is normal, if you're rocking 2mm in a direct drive setup like this then you're doing something wrong.
I'm running the stock part cooling fan and a V6 on a KP3S Pro works absolutely fine, doesn't hang lower than the nozzle.
If it does for you, guess what, print a new hotend fan mount/shroud, a trivially easy and common project for any printer.

Extending the heatbreak deeper into the block was a terrible design choice that contradicts the purpose of the heatbreak.

[Anonymous No.2624546]

>>2624542
>go on Sunlu website
>all filament is sold out

Gonna cry.

[Anonymous No.2624577]

>>2624388
Retard it has USB and LAN ports which are big. Do your research next time.

[Anonymous No.2624587]

>>2624577
Nigger those are part of the Klipper host that it has on-board, which I did already point out as the main difference between the two printers.
> it runs Klipper, saving you the "hassle" of buying a Pi or similar to run Klipper on.
Didn't think I had to add "and the features you expect from any Klipper host."

[Anonymous No.2624602]

>>2624587
>damage control

Work on your 3D printer knowledge.

[Anonymous No.2624638]

>>2624546
what 3rd world shithole doesn't have amazon?

[Anonymous No.2624641]

>>2624638
retard

[Anonymous No.2624695]

>>2624638
And can I move there?

[Anonymous No.2624729]

have my second client and they seem interested in buying a lot of these 35mm film cases, this is the current design that i'll be bringing to them tomorrow

[Anonymous No.2624730]

>>2624729
Very nice work anon.

[Anonymous No.2624742]

>>2624543
>Yeah, that's a totally different hotend, with a different heatsink, heatbreak, block, and nozzles, so what does that have to do with the V5 hotend with custom heatbreak that Kingroon uses?

Bro I literally said right here
>When I bought my second kingroon, a kp3s pro, I just bought the 10 pack of all metal heatbreaks for that hotend

>The V5 with a STEEL all-metal heatbreak is a jam-o-matic piece of shit with PLA, just like anything that pairs a steel all-metal heatbreak with insufficient cooling.

I am literally running the stock hotend, the V5, with all metal steel heat break, stock 3010 hotend cooler, no jams at all on my kp3s pro.

Like I said YOU are the reason why its jamming all the time.

>Also, 2mm retraction would be insane for that setup, 0.5-1.0 is normal, if you're rocking 2mm in a direct drive setup like this then you're doing something wrong.

I used a stock profile from a ratrig v-minion, *shrugs* no problems.

>I'm running the stock part cooling fan and a V6 on a KP3S Pro works absolutely fine, doesn't hang lower than the nozzle.

>paying the price of a e3d v6

That's probably why it fine. Clones are shorter. If you claim you bought a clone, send me a link, and the heatbreak you're using.

[Anonymous No.2624774]

>>2624742
Clones, only clones.
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H7ZYQTQ
Pneumatic fitting removed, through-hole drilled out to accept PTFE.
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B71C796D
Some old MK8 block I had laying around but that doesn't matter to the stackup height.
Generic Chinese V6 nozzles I had laying around.

Did you switch to a complete V6 hotend, including V6 nozzles? You've got me wondering where the difference is now.
A complete V5 hotend is 69.6mm tip-to-butt, a V6 is 62.3mm. The Kingroon stock hotend, with Kingroon steel heatbreak, 67.2mm, so it's almost 5mm longer than a stock V6.

These clone V6 heatsinks measure 42.7, exactly to spec, but the heatbreak does stick out more, 2.3mm more than a normal V6 heatbreak, I hadn't caught that before. So my whole hotend is 64.6mm tip to butt, only 2.6mm shorter than the stock Kingroon hotend.

What's the height of your fan shroud relative to the nozzle? I've got a ~1.2mm gap, it is a little tight. I never had to adjust it, I don't know how much play there is, how much you might be able to move it just loosening and tightening it.
So is the stock shroud ~4mm higher than the nozzle? I'm now very curious as to why this works, what the difference is between our hotends, and if that 2.3mm difference is really what's allowing the use of the stock shroud.

>Like I said YOU are the reason why its jamming all the time.
It jams during normal usage, doing things I would do with any hotend, nothing that causes a jam on any other printer I've owned.
I tried multiple steel heatbreaks, and an old Creality Spider heatbreak, with a variety of V6 and MK8 nozzles.
The Kingroon steel heatbreaks caused jams, very frequently with silk PLA, the titanium ones didn't but still couldn't keep up with the flow rate that the V5 and Spider heatbreaks managed. It's a bad design.
If it jams doing things that are normal, I don't care about band-aids, it's garbage and it gets replaced with something that works as expected.

[Anonymous No.2624775]

>>2624774
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H7ZYQTQ
Holy fuck those are overpriced right now, nobody be a retard and buy those for $4/ea, that's disgusting, I was complaining when it was $10 for 4.

[Anonymous No.2624783]

>>2624774
Fuck everything I give up. The stock Kingroon heatsink is fucked. It's a completely out of spec V6 heatsink with M6 threads.
It's just a little too tall, the bayonet mount is just a little wrong is every dimension, the fins are just a little too large in diameter, and a little too thin.
It's all there, but it's all off by 0.1-0.4mm.

Out of spec V6 heatsink with M6 threads, weird unique shitty heatbreak, V5 block, MK8 nozzles.
I like these printers but fuck whoever put this mess of a hotend together.

[Anonymous No.2624805]

>>2624774
>Did you switch to a complete V6 hotend, including V6 nozzles? You've got me wondering where the difference is now.
>A complete V5 hotend is 69.6mm tip-to-butt, a V6 is 62.3mm. The Kingroon stock hotend, with Kingroon steel heatbreak, 67.2mm, so it's almost 5mm longer than a stock V6.

I bought a v6 from trianglelabs that came with all metal, heatblock, nozzles, sensors for ~17USD. The heatsink on both of them are roughly the same by ~.5mm, the heat break are different in size for sure,

Pic related V5 on the left, V6 on the right. I showed the v5 with and without the heat block to show I do have the nozzle screwed in all the way.

[Anonymous No.2624814]

after about 4 months, i finally got the motivation to fix my printer and fixed it in about 5 minutes, printing a massage gun attachment rn

[Anonymous No.2624822]

>>2624814
Good job you pervert.

[Anonymous No.2624831]

I'm working on a prototype sort-of adapter for my standing desk to let me mount a 18 pound drawing tablet in a better location, does PETG with a 60% infill seem like it'd be able to handle 24/7 stress from that weight or should I look into something sturdier

[Anonymous No.2624835]

>>2624831
it should be more than enough, however it might deform over time but that could be many months before that's even an issue to begin with

[Anonymous No.2624840]

>>2624831
As that anon says, creep is a real issue. There's some papers and such on the topic (make sure to stop any results for "heat creep" showing up), from what I recall polycarbonate is a great filament for low-creep prints. That said, if the total stress isn't that high, you may find that PLA or PETG performs just fine. It's also an option to add holes through the print to add strengthening members, be those carbon fibres or CFRP rods, nylon rope or fishing line, threaded rod, or anything else you have lying about to provide some central strength. If you do this, you can probably drop that 60% quite a lot.

[Anonymous No.2624852]

>>2624831
You could easily lower the infill and use a continuous pattern and fill it with an epoxy if the print's weight isn't an issue

[Anonymous No.2624862]

>Neptune 4 is on pre-order
>three different tiers with expected delivery dates of August/September/October
>all are sold out
>who knows when it will be readily available for purchase

Kinda bummed because it has all the upgrades more or less I want over the 3 Pro, except I just don't want to wait more than a month. Otherwise upgrading to Klipper for the 3 Pro simply isn't worth it.

[Anonymous No.2624885]

>>2624729
yeah, um, ah, are those light tight? they don't look light tight.

[Anonymous No.2624891]

>>2624852
get fucked you tool, solid objects are less strong than hollow objects.

[Anonymous No.2624893]

>>2624891
based myth believing speedreading retard

[Anonymous No.2624896]

>>2624831
>will this hold?
you provided fucking nothing bro. how wide the orientation how it's attached the scale of your drawing, I mean why make us guess. why are there stairs steps why is there a little jog in the corner how the hell does the left side attach or hold anything? 18lbs and PETG are not enough info. will you be leaning on it?

that said bigger line width and do like 6 walls. those paper thin walls on the cross section are not going to help. as noted do not make it solid. corners are your enemy fillet that shit boi.

you should prototype in PLA then when the design it tweaked you can start thinking about stronger material, printer settings and annealing. get the fucking design right first.

[Anonymous No.2624898]

>>2624893
you fucking retard it's material science 201 from Purdue. I have a BSE. Not a BS, a BSE. You don't even know what that is. Fuck off.

[Anonymous No.2624906]

>>2624885
printed some tpu o-rings so the caps are on tight, the plastic is also fully opaque to light

[Anonymous No.2624911]

I have a question, I have a 3D printer I built literally almost a decade ago with my dad. We've revamped it now, and set it to the thinner filament.

However, now, when heating up it doesn't seem to work correctly, clogging the hot end every time. Tomorrow I will look at it, but is there anything I must look out for?

[Anonymous No.2624915]

>>2624898
>I have a BSE

I too have Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy!
Based moobros unite.

[Anonymous No.2624980]

Is anybody here familiar with printing Nylon? (PA6,11,12) .. Today I printed PA6/6.6 because my PLA prints gets soft in the hot sun, but that PA shit gets just as soft. I thought Nylon would be more head resistant? Is PA11,12 better in that regard?

[Anonymous No.2624985]

>>2624380
y-you t-t-too anon

[Anonymous No.2624987]

>>2624906
okay I'm changing my opinion to based

[Anonymous No.2624991]

>>2624911
After thinking about it for some time, I've decided that my dad probably did a config error and didn't change the feed rate when adding the new extrude.

[Anonymous No.2625043]

>>2624980
Nylon is a soft as fuck plastic to begin with, and doesn't necessarily have a high glass transition temp (Tg), but most fiber reinforced PA does have an impressive heat deflection temperature (HDT).
Most PLA has a Tg of around 60C, most PA6 between 65C and 75C, PA12 between 55C and 65C, ABS and ASA >100C.
ASA not only has a Tg of around or in excess of 100C, it has excellent UV resistance, and is a widely recommended material for outdoor use in general.
However, while ASA and ABS both have an HDT (at 1.8Mpa) of around 100C, same as their Tg, a fiber-reinforced PA like PA6-GF/PA6-CF/PA12-CF can have an HDT of over 150C!

Check the datasheets and know what you're buying before you buy it. If the filament you're looking at doesn't have a TDS available, then it's rebranded generic chinese shit, and you're just gambling with what you're getting. All good filament from reputable brands has datasheets available, with information about strength, rigidity, temperature resistance, all sorts of useful shit. With many datasheets for filament, the testing is all done with annealed samples, so frankly none of it applies to unannealed samples, be sure to read the datasheet and know how the testing was performed. Also know that they may use different testing standards that can't be compared directly, like trying to reconcile Charpy and Izod impact data, you can't actually convert between them because the testing method is fundamentally different.

Overture "Easy" Nylon will absolutely deform if left in a hot car, unless it's been annealed correctly, lots of Nylon will. If you're aiming for temperature resistance, I'd be looking at something like PolyMaker PA6-CF, a fiber-reinforced PA6 is about as good as you're gonna get for temperature resistance in a common and affordable Nylon. You'll get the best performance if you anneal your parts.
Personally, I'd just use the far easier and cheaper ASA.

[Anonymous No.2625069]

>>2624393
>I'm not looking to buy any other printers in the next 5 years.

retard take, be honest there's no way 1-5 years of printer advancement won't have you jonesing for another printer

[Anonymous No.2625075]

>>2625069
>I'm not looking to buy any other printers in the next 5 years.
I remember that feeling when I was buying my 2nd printer way back in 2012. What a fucking joke that turned out to be over a dozen printers later.

[Anonymous No.2625076]

>>2625043
on point. much appreciated. I never heard of anealing FDM printed parts. How do you anneal nylon? Like bake it in an oven at 70° for 4 hours?

[Anonymous No.2625078]

>>2625069
What if I print everything i want in the next few months and never touch it again? I really hate reselling shit. It's a fucking hassle. I also hate hoarding. One printer is the goal.

[Anonymous No.2625079]

>>2625075
I'm on 4, eyeing 5 and 6 for later this year.

>>2625078
>I really hate reselling shit.
Who gives a shit about reselling? I only sell things when people ask for them. I own multiple printers to print guns, gun attachments and shit for around the home.

[Anonymous No.2625082]

>>2625079
I hate hoarding. Speaking of guns, I kinda wanna print a nerf gun.

[Anonymous No.2625091]

>>2625076
Get on the Youtube and look into it.
There's a LOT about annealing parts, and a lot of different methods people use. Ovens, sous vide cookers, salt-packing, oil annealing, water annealing, surface annealing...
Tons of things people do for either different materials, or just in an effort to combat the usual warp/deformation that occurs while annealing.

Some people still ignore some of the most basic shit, like using rectilinear infill and lots of walls for a part they're going to anneal.
All of those long continuous lines in your part make for considerable stresses that warp the shit out of it when you try to anneal.
Something as simple as dropping to only 1 or 2 walls and using hilbert curves for top and bottom surfaces can make for WAY easier annealing, way less warp. Solid parts are usually easier to anneal as well, and are a requirement for methods that fully re-melt prints like some do with salt-packing.
Same applies in general to printing in challenging materials that like to lift/warp, like ABS and Nylon.

>>2625078
Old printers are a pile of parts for new projects. Like the buffalo, there's a use for every part. There is peace in using your new printer to turn your old printer into something new, and make it useful once again.
Unlike the buffalo, the Chinese made some of those parts so their efficacy is dubious, I don't think the naive americans had to worry about that so much.

[Anonymous No.2625146]

>>2624783
Just drill and tap the stock Kingroon heatsink to M7 then you can install whatever heatbreak on it you want.

[Anonymous No.2625155]

>>2624985
An historic event in my shitposting saga. I'm gonna frame it.

[Anonymous No.2625184]

What's a good small display I can attach to my octoprint server?
Don't need a full monitor just something that can display the status of the server.

[Anonymous No.2625208]

>>2625184
I just use the webui, is that not an option?

[Anonymous No.2625213]

>>2625208
I do too.
But I wanted a display connected to the server itself.

[Anonymous No.2625214]

>>2624906
Looks nice. I'd maybe modify the lid so the o-rings are held more captive, like by raising the middle of the base.

[Anonymous No.2625215]

speaking of octoprint, has anyone had any luck flashing the god awful Creality Box?
I am looking at https://github.com/ihrapsa/OctoWrt and have been trying all day but the thing just flashes at me, taunting me, without any progress

[Anonymous No.2625217]

>>2625213
Ah fare, can't really help you there. Sorry and good luck

[Anonymous No.2625234]

>>2625214
and or an inner ring found on soda bottle caps and other things

[Anonymous No.2625235]

>>2625214
>>2625234
the threads of the cap are captive enough, don't think i really need to go that overboard

[Anonymous No.2625236]

>>2625078
I can go for months without printing. The only thing you might lose is filament if you live in a swamp.

[Anonymous No.2625238]

>>2625235
>don't think i really need to go that overboard

[Anonymous No.2625257]

>>2625235
To keep the o-ring from falling out?

[Anonymous No.2625261]

Is it worth building an enclosure for my printer?

[Anonymous No.2625264]

>>2625261
Yup. It'll pay itself off if you start printing in ABS, which is easy with an enclosure, and a better value than PLA $/volume.
It also enables you to print in stronger, more durable, and temperature resistant materials like ABS, ASA, and Nylon.
Do it.

[Anonymous No.2625294]

>>2625264
Not him, but what's nylon like compared to ABS? Assuming you already have a good printer.

[Anonymous No.2625301]

>>2625294
It's the next step up in many regards, Nylon can be a massive bitch to print.
The first main issue is warp, Nylon warps much like ABS does, though it's less prone to splitting layers. A good bed and plenty of gluestick are highly recommended, though purpose made adhesion promotors exist that are advertised specifically for Nylon. An enclosure is basically a requirement, though just like with ABS some small prints may be possible without one.
The next big bitch with Nylon is how incredibly hygroscopic it is. It rapidly sucks moisture out of the air, way more so than any other filament that I'm aware of.
You absolutely need a way to dry the filament, and you need a dry box to print it from. I live in the fucking desert, it's permanently <20% humidity in my home, but a roll of filament will suck enough moisture out of the air to start printing like shit after only a few hours. Nylon is the only filament I ever bother to dry, I can leave rolls of PLA and ASA in stacks on shelves, but Nylon I always have to dry a roll before I use it and keep it in a dry box for the duration of printing.

It's a finicky cunt but if you have an enclosure, gluestick, and a dry box, then it's manageable.

[Anonymous No.2625318]

>>2625294
Glass fiber nylon is pretty easy. Just bake it at 80-90C for a 12+h. (cheap chink filament dryers wont to shit). Bed adhesion and warping are similar to abs.
Pure nylon is an absolute bitch. It warps and unstick no matter what. It is possible to print small gears on a raft but thats it.
Also try glass fiber polypropylene. It does not need drying at all, warping is minimal, just a tiny bit weaker compared to nylon. Only downside is bed adhesion. It is a little bit tricky. Special spray-glue and 135C bed for the first layer works for me. Some folks are using FR4 or PP tape.

[Anonymous No.2625319]

Ok so the laser works for removing etch resistant paint, and for removing the solder mask, but it's significantly charring the epoxy FR4 underneath it, with the same 40% power + 2 pass lasering. Would be even worse with phenolic+paper FR2.
Guess I'll need to do some testing to see what power levels and pass numbers works for me.

Also it's really hard to get them aligned properly. I should 3D print a corner alignment jig.

[Anonymous No.2625320]

>Neptune 4 will be available starting literal JULY 21st

Fuck man that's literally two entire months. God damn it.

[Anonymous No.2625322]

>>2625319
Oh and I realised I can add a non-zero stroke width to the lines in Inkscape, and convert that stroke into a path again, in order to compensate for laser width. But I'll need to change my workflow. The Inkscape stroke-to-path function is giving me strange artefacts (pic related). In addition, and the GUI-dependant actions like converting units to absolute (makes python parsing much easier) and flattening beziers (prevents artefacts when converting stroke-to-path) take a really long time for large files, so I'll probably do another method.

Like just converting the svg into a png and then back again. Which is what I should have been doing, instead of writing 400 lines of shell script and 200 lines of python. Hopefully I don't have scale issues.

[Anonymous No.2625326]

>>2625261 For a bedslinger no. Just put a cardboard box on top of it.

[Anonymous No.2625331]

So I decided to print a plane model. I've watched some videos on the internet about it and people say that lightweight PLA is the best choise.
What would you recommend for PLA-LW prints? Any techniques? Maybe some post-print work on the models?

[Anonymous No.2625333]

>>2625331
> lightweight PLA is the best choise
Still heavy AF. Hot knife tool + styrofoam is the way

[Anonymous No.2625336]

Might not be the best place to ask, but what are some good CAD tutorials? My work is wanting me to start doing more design work for them, despite being hired as a chemist.

[Anonymous No.2625347]

>>2625336
RTFM
No, really. Best CAD tutorials for starting are always the ones provided by the maker of the software. Pic related is the one for solidworks. There's easily 30 hours of lessons and if you complete them all you'll know shit that seasoned CAD-monkeys wont. The one in Inventor is even better due to it being integrated and interactive.

[Anonymous No.2625357]

>>2625347
Fair but I was hoping for more the engineering point. It's not really my area so dunno what I am meant to be doing.

[Anonymous No.2625360]

odds: wait two months for Neptune 4
evens: buy 3 Pro right now
0: kms

[Anonymous No.2625362]

>Neptune 4 Pro up on 3djake
>delivery august 9th
I've already got an N3Pro, does the 4 offer anything I can't easily upgrade myself?

[Anonymous No.2625364]

>>2625360
good news!

[Anonymous No.2625365]

>>2625362
Klipper, USB, better leveling, better extruder.

>>2625364
0 is an even number.

[Anonymous No.2625377]

>>2625357
All right, then. What does your employer want you to design? After the basic techniques it gets real specific real fast. I might be able to help, I do this for a living.

[Anonymous No.2625379]

>>2625377
We're looking at a few things.
One is efficient building designs, one is insulation and the rest depends on the client.
Sorry I can't be more helpful this all kinda got dumped on me at the end of a meeting.

[Anonymous No.2625385]

>>2625336
It really depends on the software. For AutoCAD there is a lot of training and tutorials, classes, etc. built in to your employer taking it. For something like OnShape it's "intuitive" so you're looking at youtube videos that are maybe questionable. For Fusion360 you're going to be watching outdated videos by indian tier tech support where the features don't match your installation and many things are obscure.

For me the best way to learn is by doing. Basic cad is you define a plane, make a sketch, extrude the shape and then add or subtract with more sketches, shapes or operations (loft, chamfer, fillet). There is some specific nomenclature by software, again, e.g. there are two types of extrude in Fusion360 and they work differently.

[Anonymous No.2625389]

>>2625379
also your recommendation should be to hire some college faggot who will CAD for $22k annually. employers think you're going to get studio tier walkthru graphics by just "using cad" when the skill, tricks and efficiency take some years to develop. Someone in graphic design is a lot more likely to be able to do something more than a 1980s render, and your average unemployed CAD person is going to be worlds ahead.

Also technically this is a >>>/3/ board question.

[Anonymous No.2625394]

is anycubic resin good?

[Anonymous No.2625395]

>>2625389
I know but unfortunately that's my reality and sorry I don't browse /3/.

[Anonymous No.2625397]

https://www.reddit.com/r/4chan/comments/13x1jyy/meanwhile_over_in_diy/
someone here has to kys

[Anonymous No.2625404]

>>2625397
>browsing and linking reddit

Yeah you.

[Anonymous No.2625438]

>>2625397
>harvesting (You)s on reddit
I've reached a new level of shitposting glory. Also love that the bot goes "you are not allowed to say FAGGOT on this board. anyone saying FAGGOT will get banned. The word was FAGGOT." lol. fucking redit.

[Anonymous No.2625453]

I need a spool to spool winder to transfer filament. Anybody have a good print for this?

[Anonymous No.2625490]

How does the Creality Halot Mage compare to other 8k printers? It's pretty cheap on Amazon, is there anything to watch out for?

[Anonymous No.2625496]

lowpolyGODS here you go, this art piece is called "athlete wrestling a python lowpoly™" only TRUE thinkers can understand the beauty. Unwashed masses shall not reply.

[Anonymous No.2625503]

>>2625379
Welp, this is somewhat out of my engineering scope. I've used Grasshopper in Rhino to do a little large scale structural design, but that was steel structures. I'd still recommend learning a little grasshopper. It's good for creating highly adaptive patterned structures such as in building design and is far less of an investment than some autodesk architecture suite. It's also good to own a rhino license for backup purposes. It can pretty much do anything other software won't but has a steeper learning curve.

[Anonymous No.2625504]

>>2625496
I enjoyed this post.

[Anonymous No.2625508]

>>2625496
where's the print?

[Anonymous No.2625517]

>>2625496
how do you even sculpt in high poly anyways, blender always gave me shit when I tried to sculpt a cube since it was always low poly. The guides didn’t help at all…

[Anonymous No.2625518]

>>2625517
First, you make a low-poly cube, like 12 triangles tops, then you subdivide it until you get the poly count as high as you want!

[Anonymous No.2625521]

>>2625518
that’s very fake and gay, why can’t I just sculpt it like normal clay?

[Anonymous No.2625523]

>>2625521
I hear 3D scans can have really high poly counts.
Maybe sculpt an actual cube out of normal clay, then just 3D scan it.

[Anonymous No.2625542]

What's a thread for 3D print designs? I need some resources and inspiration for my very specific functional 3D print wants.

[Anonymous No.2625573]

I want to print myself a huge ass Metal Gear REX, but I'm unwilling to pay for the files before I have a finished print.
I've landed on this:
https://www.gambody.com/3d-models/metal-gear-rex
Anyone have pointers towards pirating this?

[Anonymous No.2625575]

I havent done a redundant upgrade in awhile, should i buy one of those double sided magnetic flex plates for my e3v2?

[Anonymous No.2625577]

>>2625575
You don't have a two-sided PEI coated magnetic spring steel bed yet? Get on it, they're great.

[Anonymous No.2625588]

I've been going back and forth on getting a 3d printer for a while. I have a new friend who has an flsun printer he said I could print whatever I want on, I'm thinking about usint it to print my own printer and building one from scratch.
Eventually I'd like to use the printer for prototyping ergo mech keyboard parts, idk if printed parts on the printer itself sacrifice accuracy to the point where it's not worth it. I'm at a loss of where to find more info, is there a good source for learning about printing printers?

[Anonymous No.2625612]

>>2625588
Why would you want to learn 3d printing by building a complicated 3D printer? Start by buying one, learning how they work, and go from there. They're like $350 tops

[Anonymous No.2625613]

>>2625575
>>2625577
lol I literally just ordered one myself so I can print PETG. I think anything else at this point is just going into the CoreXY fund.

[Anonymous No.2625619]

>>2625573
What's wrong with some of these?

https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Metal+Gear+REX&page=1&type=things&sort=relevant

[Anonymous No.2625639]

>>2625619
I want to pirate it, not get it for free. duh.

[Anonymous No.2625640]

>>2625613
I print PETG on glue stick. It's either painters tape or the bambu cold plate under it. God I wish you faggots would let this "PETG is hard" meme go.

[Anonymous No.2625643]

>>2625588
>has an flsun
based af

print some keycaps for your cherry browns on his printer to decide if you should buy your own or not for this project. I made my left handed kid a custom layout on my mini delta so you don't need a god tier printer, but you'll probably need a bigger bed than your fren has. regardless don't make him print you an entire printer unless you're sucking his dick on the side.

[Anonymous No.2625660]

Is there a way to add a layer pause in bambu studio? It doesn't seem to have gcode export/import and not even sure I can directly print sliced g code. Anybody have thoughts?

[Anonymous No.2625662]

>>2625660
1) It does all of those things
2) Use Orca Slicer.

[Anonymous No.2625663]

>>2625612
I was hoping to build one on the cheap. $350 isn't much but I'm even more at a loss on what's good to buy at that price range. I don't want to buy something and find out it's not going to work for my purposes. If I print it I can more easily replace parts to fix problems, at least that was the train of thought.
>>2625643
I was thinking of starting with caps to test print before doing a whole dactyl. He's pretty new to printing and his prints have some of those little holes in the sides which from what I've seen online might be a retraction tuning issue. I can't learn much without a printer on hand though.
>don't make him print you an entire printer unless you're sucking his dick on the side
He's actually more interested in the "print a printer" concept than I am. Offered to pay for the filament too which I turned down.
At this point I might just get something that is easy to print upgrades for, I was hoping to cut costs on building an ergo mech and here I am thinking about getting a $400 printer and spending ~$300 on parts just to print a keyboard I can buy for $350.

[Anonymous No.2625664]

>>2625588
>I'm thinking about usint it to print my own printer and building one from scratch.
>Eventually I'd like to use the printer for prototyping ergo mech keyboard parts, idk if printed parts on the printer itself sacrifice accuracy to the point where it's not worth it. I'm at a loss of where to find more info, is there a good source for learning about printing printers?
i agree, what would such complications achieve?
also if youre doing serious prototyping then a 350 diy printer seems like a terrible idea.

[Anonymous No.2625670]

>>2625663
The wear items on printers aren't printable.
You can't print nozzles, heatbreaks, mosfets, fans, thermistors, heater cartridges, roller bearings, v-wheels, bearing blocks, extruder gears, (good) belts...

[Anonymous No.2625674]

>>2625662
Care to elaborate on where to edit the gcode in bambu?

Also I'm guessing orca doesn't support the ams which I'm not using right now but do have.

[Anonymous No.2625675]

>>2625664
>i agree, what would such complications achieve?
I was hoping for cheaper or upgradable parts that I can make myself.
>also if youre doing serious prototyping then a 350 diy printer seems like a terrible idea.
Not serious as in potential business prototyping. I found a site that lets you create a ergonomic keyboard layout and generate stls to print it, I would print one I think works best then maybe make small changes to the thumb clusters and curvature of the keys until I settle on what I like.
>>2625670
Hmm I knew most of the important parts can't be printed, I guess I saw some prototypes with these long screws for axis movement and it seemed like most of it could be printed.

[Anonymous No.2625678]

>>2625663
Well there's an issue, you're not going to want a printer printed with gaps in the print. Get a printer off craigslist and you can fuck with it yourself then decide if you're going to print a voron to print your keyboard.

[Anonymous No.2625681]

>>2625664
>if youre doing serious prototyping then a 350 diy printer seems like a terrible idea.
I agree I've been using a $150 printer for 3 years. Spending $350 is way more than necessary.

[Anonymous No.2625682]

>>2625663
>$350 isn't much but I'm even more at a loss on what's good to buy at that price range.
Ender 3 V2 neo. Been working nearly 24/7 for me for nearly a year. I've had to clear the nozzle once and that's it on maintenance.

[Anonymous No.2625683]

>>2625663
>$350
That's $350 canuck bucks too, so like $2 USD thanks to that cunt PM of ours.

[Anonymous No.2625684]

>>2625678
>Get a printer off craigslist
Well fuck me how did I not think about checking for used printers around me. I found an ender 3 pro for $100 and ender 3 v2 for $170 on offer up already. There's a couple AnyCubic printers too but I don't know much about those. Well I don't know much about ANY printer but at least I've heard of ender 3s.
>>2625682
You know how a v2 compares to an ender 3 pro? I'm looking around and people are flip flopping between saying one is better than the other.
>>2625683
Looks like it, they're way cheaper than I thought.

[Anonymous No.2625687]

>>2625675
If you're going to print a printer you're going to print a voron. You can get hardware kits from China at various levels to go with the prints but looking at these should explain a lot. Once you have a printer there are a lot of upgrades from cooling ducts to spool holders, but you're not going to be worried about that until you have a working printer.

[Anonymous No.2625688]

>>2625684
>You know how a v2 compares to an ender 3 pro?
Whichever one looks less blown out. Printers aren't like pussy in that you can actually see the miles on a printer.

[Anonymous No.2625700]

>>2625619
Not poseable, I need to divide the mesh myself to get the scale I'm looking for, generally less on-model etc.

[Anonymous No.2625703]

Say good bye to pegs, say hello to fancy 3D printed bracket.

[Anonymous No.2625704]

Printed it this way around to ensure I get a nice sharp corner to notch the board into.

[Anonymous No.2625707]

>>2625674
>Also I'm guessing orca doesn't support the ams which I'm not using right now but do have.
You guessed wrong, probably shouldn't just guess, probably should Google the questions you have in your head.

>Is there a way to add a layer pause in bambu studio?
>It doesn't seem to have gcode export/import
You can add a pause or other custom gcode within a print directly by right clicking on the layer slider in print preview mode.
The export button is the print button.
picrel.jpg

[Anonymous No.2625714]

>>2625707
>probably should Google the question
Modern information is buried in a sea of YouTube videos that often don't have the thing you actually need. Also I'm stuck phone posting. But yeah, right click on layer preview slider. So fucking obvious I should have just found it myself. You're quite the saint for being such a cunt you know.

[Anonymous No.2625718]

>>2625714

[Anonymous No.2625719]

>>2625703
>>2625704
Using three thumbscrews to hold it in place, two M4 (from a half-dead resin printer) and one M3 (from the laser's own glare-shield). Not sure if there's a good way to diy 3D printed thumbscrew heads. All I can think of is to print a knob with a flanged hole so a screw head sits neatly inside it with the shank protruding, and epoxy the head in place.

[Anonymous No.2625730]

>>2625719
Should be able to interference fit a knob on a hex without too much trouble. Heat head and insert would be my next thought.

Reverse thumb screw with captive taper and you can seat it with a nut and washer.

[Anonymous No.2625758]

>>2625703
Oh and the solder mask I'm using doesn't seem to be a good laser target. Burns nastily when in front of FR4 such that I have to scrub the char off and risk delaminating traces, and it doesn't get removed completely when atop copper. There is no goldilocks zone. Going to buy a few different types of rattlecan paints to see what works both as a soldermask and as a laserable medium.

Worst case I go back to manually painting, or buy one of those spring-loaded router bits for my ender 3 V2 -mounted rotary tool.
Speaking of which, I realise I need to make another jig that clamps the PCB to a sacrificial layer for drilling, with the same alignment as the laser setup. Eventually.

>>2625730
Yeah external hex is almost certainly the way to go, if not those square-head bolts you find in vintage tools. But I don't have any of those.

[Anonymous No.2625762]

>>2625684
>There's a couple AnyCubic printers too
AnyCubic is fine and common enough with common enough parts to consider buying and possibly repairing secondhand

[Anonymous No.2625772]

I might be able to get one of these for a low-ish price. I've heard bad things about them, but the 3-filament blending system intrigues me. Does anyone know what I'd be in for if I wanted to use such a printer as a daily driver?

[Anonymous No.2625784]

What's a 3D printed solution for me just slamming my knee cap really hard to the point of tearing up directly into the edge of my desk when I was rushing to get out of bed?

[Anonymous No.2625788]

>>2625772
It's garbage, a heap of proprietary garbage from a Chink company that tries to disguise themselves as Eurocucks.
You'll be in for a shitfest of pain and disappointment under a thick veneer of Chinese gimmicks, Chinese QC, and Chinese lies.
Nothing redeeming about them, terribly overpriced. You can buy a 3-color-mixing hotend on Ali for cheap and a couple extra stepper motors if you want to add this functionality to any other printer, not that you should.
As a daily driver, fuck what a horrible, horrible choice of printer. It's a bad delta implementation, with shit-tier proprietary electronics, and a shit-tier hotend.

Don't fucking do it.

[Anonymous No.2625790]

>>2625788
Fuck yeah anon based factpost

[Anonymous No.2625817]

>>2625758
>But I don't have any of those.

well what the fuck do you have

[Anonymous No.2625818]

>>2625772
that design looks like zoomer shit. the 3 head thing is interesting, are the complaints about the filament system or something else? how cheap?

[Anonymous No.2625819]

>>2625788
+1 internets

[Anonymous No.2625821]

Considering getting Polymaker PolyTerra filament since eSUN isn't in stock on 3Djake right now. Thoughts? I'm not printing toys with tits on them by the way, I want to do functional prints. Need some decent strength.

[Anonymous No.2625872]

>>2625821
pla is pla, strength is in the design and slicing.

[Anonymous No.2625873]

>>2625872
wrong

[Anonymous No.2625890]

>>2625873
you the guy who thinks engineering is just a fancy? there are zero appreciable differences between PLA in regard to material strength. PLA+ and PLA2 included. the fucking COLOR of PLA you choose matters more than who made it. now fuck off back to your hole retard.

[Anonymous No.2625895]

>>2625890
no not him

[Anonymous No.2625902]

>>2625890
PLA has poor creep resistance even at room temperature. Other filaments will hold up way better. There's a reason why ABS is still the de facto for engineering prototypes and nylon and delrin are used for actual functional parts. When's the last time you've seen PLA used in real products? The only ones I can think of are disposables and consumables where a short lifespan and biodegradability are the main selling points.

[Anonymous No.2625910]

>>2625902
>When's the last time you've seen PLA used in real products?

Not him but the product I'm about to build when pic related gets to my door. It's gonna be all PLA. I just ordered and can't wait.

[Anonymous No.2625918]

>>2625902
my point stands, manufacturer of said PLA is moot when considering product strength.

[Anonymous No.2625919]

>>2625910
>buys inserts
>no M3 fasteners
>buys vacuum bag
>only 1 filament
>buys block and bi-metal heat break
>no nozzles, fan, heat element
>buys neptune 3 pro
>doesn't wait for 4
NGMI

[Anonymous No.2625920]

>>2625910
>>2625919
>dubious upgrade
>it's for printing PLA

[Anonymous No.2625924]

>>2625919
What's wrong with inserts? I didn't see M3 fasteners on the website. What's wrong with vacuum bags? I'm waiting on filament stock from my local, this is just to test. A youtube video said the block and heatbreak are a good upgrade. I don't know what nozzles I want, but I can buy them later. The extruder has two fans. I don't know what a heat element is. You guys said the Neptune 3 Pro is the thing to buy. 4 will be available late July and I don't wanna wait.

>>2625920
I'm planning on printing high volume and these upgrades are allegedly supposed to help prevent potential clogging. I'm also not limited to the filament, I just bought this PLA to try. I have a local store for all sorts of filaments and I want to support them.

[Anonymous No.2625927]

>>2625919
What do you mean by M3 fasteners anyways? This uses M2 bolts.

[Anonymous No.2625935]

>>2625890
So fucking wrong, an actual retard wrote this.
>>2625918
Unequivocally wrong, and retarded. I suppose you think all ABS is the same too?
>>2625902
>When's the last time you've seen PLA used in real products?
Pretty much every single day. One of the major uses for PLA today is automotive interiors. It's used to produce structural components, soft-touch panels, and fiber material for carpets and headliners. Manufacturers have been touting their use of biodegradable PLA in their interiors for over 15 years now.
Keep spouting off like you know something you fucking child.

>>2625821
The PolyTerra PLA and PolyTerra PLA+ are made from recycled materials and have considerably less tensile strength than their PolyLite PLA, PolyLite PLA Pro, and PolyMax PLA.
Head to PolyMaker's store page https://us.polymaker.com and find "Material Comparison", they've got their datasheets in a Microsoft PowerBI chart, makes it easy to see and compare the filament they sell.

[Anonymous No.2625937]

>>2625935
>The PolyTerra PLA and PolyTerra PLA+ are made from

Yeah I checked all that. I just got the polyterra pla to try out, hence the 1 roll. I'm brand new to 3D printing, but I'm not retarded. It's to obvious all PLA is not the same.

[Anonymous No.2625939]

>>2625937
>The same
Keep in mind these charts don't convey the details of testing methods, definitely recommended to look at the datasheets.
Lots of PLA filament datasheets are just regurgitated data from the actual resin manufacturer and don't apply to printed parts.
Other times, especially with some specific PLA resins like NatureWorks 3D850 and 3D870, you'll find the datasheets typically specify that parts have been annealed, it's hard to find a 3D850 or 3D870 datasheet where the testing was done with printed test coupons that weren't annealed.

[Anonymous No.2625941]

>>2625939
The real question is. What are your favorite PLA fillaments?

[Anonymous No.2625942]

>>2625573
You gotta look on Trannygram unfortunately

[Anonymous No.2625945]

>>2625941
Overture PLA "Professional" and PolyMaker PolyLite PLA Pro, which are probably the same material given that they're the same company, Overture being PolyMaker's American sister company founded and operated by the same people and featuring a nearly identical product lineup.
Prusament is good, consistent, overpriced as fuck. I really like Printed Solid's Jessie PLA, it's my go-to for distinct or specific colors, very good stuff and not terribly overpriced.
3D-Fuel makes good filament, their standard PLA being 4043D and their Pro being 3D870, they're transparent about their materials and processes, and they also sell some unique filaments.
I love ProtoPasta for making really "neat" filament, it's high quality and consistent sure, but mostly it's just expensive and cool looking and good at clogging nozzles with glitter and crap.

Highly recommend avoiding iiiDmax, the Palestinian Floridian who owns and operates can't keep debris out of his filament. They've got near constant sale prices to attract buyers, good luck returning the last 7 rolls of that 10 roll bundle deal after clearing yet-another-clog. Don't know if they've improved, don't care at this point, they were bad enough they made many people's lists of scams.

[Anonymous No.2625950]

>>2625945
Damn those are some expensive options.

[Anonymous No.2625952]

What's a good retraction length and retraction speed for a humble E3 V2 neo?
Currently set as 6mm and 25mm/s and prints turn out pretty nice, but I believe this clogged my printer twice last month.

[Anonymous No.2625955]

>>2625952
>E3 V2 neo
>3mm @ 50mm/s retract and 40mm/s deretract
Do retraction tuning and play with your options, your 6mm is higher than I'd expect even with the stock shit-tier bowden tube, and 25mm/s is pretty slow even for a bowden extruder.
Shorter retractions might reduce your problems with clogs, assuming the length is actually a problem right now, could be. Quicker retractions add up considerably in lengthy and otherwise complex prints, it can save you a lot of time.
Maybe my values will "Just Werk" for you, but fuck that, do some retraction tuning. I do it for every distinct type of filament I print with, not really a surprise that good retraction settings vary between ABS, PLA, and TPU.
Your slicer may have retraction tuning/retraction calibration functions built in, like you find in SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer, or you can use a nice hand-holding website like https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction and Ellis' guide https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/retraction.html

[Anonymous No.2625956]

I'm absolutely appalled how I got disrespected with these two posts >>2625919 >>2625920 and then neither of them addressed my retorts.

[Anonymous No.2625963]

>>2625955
I had this thing for just a month, so lots of values I use are default ones. My prints have zero stringing and I'm pretty happy with them, but I did notice a lot of time is wasted on retraction alone.
I'll try your values first and see if they just werk, if they don't I'll do this retraction tuning thing

[Anonymous No.2625964]

>>2625935
>One of the major uses for PLA today is automotive interiors. It's used to produce structural components, soft-touch panels, and fiber material for carpets and headliners. Manufacturers have been touting their use of biodegradable PLA in their interiors for over 15 years now.
Drop some part numbers right now

[Anonymous No.2625967]

>>2625956
>Neptune 3 Pro
Great choice of printer, great value, top-tier quality control by Chinese standards which is probably their biggest claim to fame.

>Block and Heatbreak
Heatbreak's an upgrade, a cheapy Chinese one, but an upgrade. I'd save it for a little later and not bother to install it right away. Gotta learn to service the hotend, it's the wear-end of your printer, it's what you fully expect to have to perform maintenance on in some capacity. Save the heatbreak, just until a little later. You'll feel like a real shithead if you shear a heatbreak or strip the heater block before you've even gotten to do some printing. The block is a non-upgrade, and even the £20 they want for it is too much.
The block is overpriced because it's MicroSwiss brand, American made. The heatbreak is overpriced because it's a £1 Chinese heatbreak they've marked up over 1000%.
If you want the bi-metallic heatbreak then buy a 5 pack from China for £10, buy a spare block to keep around for 80p, and while you're there buy a SACK of a few dozen nozzles for £5.

You nozzle is your main wear component, it'll wear out from normal usage very slowly, but can be abraded and destroyed quickly by certain filaments. They can be clogged by debris, they can get caked in charred and crystalized plastic, they can get fucked up by you dicking around with spanners and pliers. You won't necessarily change it often, but you'd be stupid to not keep replacements on hand.

Heatbreaks are delicate, they've got thin cross-sections, the titanium used in many is very soft, and Chinese bi-metallics can fall apart in odd ways. Keep your retard strength down and always follow the golden rule: No Torque on a Cold Hotend
You ONLY remove and install nozzles from a hotend that's HOT. Try to remove a cold nozzle, you'll easily shear the nozzle, the heatbreak, or the threads in the block. Install a nozzle while cold, gotta warm it up to torque it or you get a leaky hotend shitting plastic where it doesn't belong.

[Anonymous No.2625971]

>>2625967
I see what you're saying but we don't have Amazon and I don't want to wait literally two months on shipping from china. I can get nozzles locally, just haven't read up on them yet.

[Anonymous No.2625974]

>>2625964
Mazda
>2006 – Mazda starts developing bioplastics under the brandname Mazda Biotech-material. Teijin & Mazda codeveloped Biofront™, the first mass-produced stereocomplexed PLA. It’s used in car seat fabric (Mazda Premacy), but also for floor mats, pillar cover, door trim, front panel and ceiling material. Mazda claims to be the first to reach a plant-derived content above 80% for interior fittings (Premacy Hydrogen RE Hybrid) and a 100% plant-derived bio-fabric for seat covers.
>2015 – The bio-based plastic made its debut for interior parts with the Mazda MX-5. It was made of 88% corn and 12% petroleum.

Toyota and Lexus
>2003 – They used PLA fibers and fabrics for the floor mats and PLA/kenaf biocomposites for the the cover spare wheel and translucent roof of Prius and Raum.
>2003 – 2015 They mixed PLA with PET for upholstery material on door and luggage area trims, and PLA with polypropylene (PP) for injection moulded parts such as scuff plates and interior trims.

Ford's noted for a lot of their work in this regard but in actual production vehicles you're much more likely to find their onions products and "bio" polyurethane/polypropylene.
If you do some research yourself then you may be impressed at how many still use PLA for floor mats, headliners, and interior panels. Maybe flip some parts in your own interior and look for the recycling symbol.
You're welcome to look up part numbers for specific components if you want, the MX-5 is an easy one, shit heel.

[Anonymous No.2625981]

Is there a way to choose in slicer/prusaslicer/superslicer how it should alternate between two extruders?

Currently it optimizes tool changes and prints like this: T0, T1 next layer: T1, T0, next layer T0, T1....
I want to have T0, T1 next layer: T0, T1, next layer T1, T0....

[Anonymous No.2625991]

>>2625974
For one you got your shit from a shitty unsourced blog.
>Mazda Premacy
Straight up a lie. it was only used in the Premacy Hydrogen RE Hybrid, an extremely limited production car only available for lease in Japan with ONLY FIVE EVER LEASED and basically a showcase car for hydrogen engines. I have the Mazda press release right now.
https://newsroom.mazda.com/en/publicity/release/2007/200709/070912.html

Not to mention, as far as I can tell Mazda never specified it as PLA and tout it as a temperature and UV resistant plastic that's blended with polypropylene, resisting temps over 100C. Pic related. This profile fits plasticized cellulose acetate, not PLA.

Basically, you're full of shit and just reposting shitty blogs. Like I said, name those fucking part numbers faggot and while you're at it why don't you give a real source for these parts being PLA because it's clear you're full of shit.

[Anonymous No.2626012]

>>2625991
>https://www.greencarcongress.com/2006/05/japanese_resear.html
>https://newsroom.mazda.com/en/publicity/release/2014/201412/141210a.html
>https://www.mazda.com/globalassets/en/assets/sustainability/download/2022/2022e_all.pdf

I know you're having a hard time with this.
You'll find a PLA trim and fabric in the interior of the majority of recent Mazda vehicles.
They state openly and often that their pride-and-joy bioplastics are based around polylactic acid.

Here, from the article YOU LINKED because you couldn't even manage to read it:
>The biofabric is made of 100 percent polylactic acid
You're pathetic.

[Anonymous No.2626016]

>>2626012
Read the screenshot retard. I'm not talking about fabric I'm talking about the so called plastic that can sustain loads at temperatures above 100C. Also you posted yet another random unsourced blog, a statement from 2014 stating this
>NOW, Mazda has succeeded in making a material suitable for both interior and exterior parts.
with no mention of PLA and a sustainability doc that again doesn't reference PLA. You acknowledge you're talking about two totally different things but you're trying to conflate the fabric with the plastic

>You'll find a PLA trim and fabric in the interior of the majority of recent Mazda vehicles.
Again, source and part numbers, it's that simple.

[Anonymous No.2626021]

anyone know where to get a good sonichu medallion stl? theres a good one that behind a 17 cad paywall....

[Anonymous No.2626048]

I'm not sure what raspberry pi alternative I want to get for Klipper in yurop. I was looking at the mks pi but further reading the documentation and their github I got put off. Why are shitberries not in stock still? 50 bucks would be more than enough for one plus it's accessories to easily set Klipper up.

[Anonymous No.2626090]

>>2626012
>They state openly and often that their pride-and-joy bioplastics are based around polylactic acid.

Anon stop you're embarrassing yourself, you are trying to say the PLA mazda is using is equivalent to what we 3d print.

It's not, that's a fact

PLA you claim 100% guarantee went through a different process than what we 3d print, and yet you're trying to claim its the same, that's like saying the bar of soap I have in my bathroom, eggs I have in my fridge, and the seashells at the beach are all the same because they both contain calcium carbonate.

Honestly if you took basic chemistry you wouldn't have even considered spouting this non sense.

[Anonymous No.2626094]

>>2626048

Old android phone?
>https://github.com/gaifeng8864/klipper-on-android/blob/main/README_en.md

Is orange pi too expensive in your area? Also take a look at SBC OS like armbian and see what SBC they support that will give you an idea

[Anonymous No.2626159]

>>2626090
damn ESL, find a place to set those goalposts

[Anonymous No.2626170]

>>2626048
Look at thin clients

[Anonymous No.2626191]

Why is modeling a single layer of a floppy disk so hard?

[Anonymous No.2626195]

is it worth going to mriscoc firmware? im still on jyers latest update which is like 2 years old i think

[Anonymous No.2626196]

>>2626191
I mean I would've just grabbed a floppy disk cad model, go into slicer and slice it @ .01 height.

But you do you.

[Anonymous No.2626198]

>>2626191
It doesn't look like you're basing it off the actual standard, which doesn't bode well.
You can go find a PDF of ECMA-147 if you want all the external drawings and dimensions so you can get those holes sized and positioned correctly.

[Anonymous No.2626202]

>>2626196
They don't exist hence why I'm doing the project. Yeah it is surprising as hell. You'll find lots of game models showing the external part of the disk. One guy even modeled the shutter and read write switch, but more than likely you'll find coasters and floppy disk cases that hold SD cards.

>>2626198
I've seen this before, thanks for reminding me. It does not contain the drawings you say. It has a few but not all the inside details. It does have lots of things like for the major components:
L1 = 94,0 mm +/- 0,3mm.
Even then it lacks the inner details I need to model it. For example it just gives vague information about the shutter. I have two different floppies with different shutter designs. The standard is vague on purpose to make it easier for the manufacturer.

[Anonymous No.2626203]

>>2626202
>It has a few but not all the inside details.
>>2626198
>external drawings and dimensions
>external

[Anonymous No.2626205]

>>2626203
Yeah but sometimes they are the same like the center hole. For that it says it is 40 mm in. That makes no sense when it is a "center" hole. Has to be 45 mm given the 90 mm wide disk. In any case I see no reason to change my method if there is still no one that has modeled the inside of the disk.

[Anonymous No.2626206]

>>2626205
You should read the whole thing, it explains what you're talking about right now.
The center of the 26.5mm hole is 40x31mm from the reference X/Y point, is the center of the primary locating hole. All of the dimensions are defined from a plane centered at that point.
This is explained under the "Dimensions" section.

> The dimensions of the cartridge are referred to two Reference Axes X and Y [... that] define the Reference Plane XY of the cartridge.
You can see these axes in the drawings.
> The centre of the primary locating hole shall be at the intersection of the Reference Axes X and Y.

[Anonymous No.2626207]

>>2626202
>>2626205

Maybe this will help, but then again, who knows.
https://grabcad.com/library/floppy-disk-1

[Anonymous No.2626209]

>>2626206
Okay I see I made the mistake thinking that L3 started at the edge. In any case my dimensions are basically in line with their standards. Funny enough all their dimensions are in mm. But when measuring mine you can tell a lot of stuff is in inches. Things like 1/8 inches. They obviously convert but I've found when I get a weird mm measure the manufacturer obviously used inches.

>>2626207
Unfortunately no, that is an external model. Often used for game design. Here is a pic showing what I have yet to model. All the internal pertrusions.

[Anonymous No.2626210]

Is there a reliable way to join bits of filament? I could always just keep feeding longer bits into a printer with a runout sensor, but I have a bunch of dried out snapped off chunks that it would be cool to try out. I saw some tools on ebay etc. For joining filament, but they look like gimmicky garbage.

Pic of a cup I made for measuring out car windshield washer fluid concentrate for attention.

[Anonymous No.2626212]

>>2626210
You can just slide in the new filament. Sure it can't retract until it starts to get extruded but as long as you butt it against the stuff that is printing it works well enough.

[Anonymous No.2626214]

>>2626212
Pic related. Just slide it in as it is printing or just get it to temp and step it.

[Anonymous No.2626227]

>>2625788
>not that you should
Are we ever going to see good colour mixing hot-ends? I want to blend TPU and a hard filament to make my parts vary their elastic modulus throughout the structure.
At this point it feels like you'd have more success trying to do colour mixing with a modified pellet extruder.

>>2625817
Phillips sheet-metal screws (i.e. pan-head) that are either nickel or cadmium plated, and have a little dot next to them that makes me think there's a small chance they're actually JIS even though they're made in China. I get them cheap through work, for a variety of M3 and M4 lengths, plus one M2 and M6 length each.

[Anonymous No.2626229]

>>2626210
I've tried with a soldering iron and it worked sometimes, others (most) I just got a clog exactly at the welding point. Main issue when welding is you've gotta trim it until it's kinda 1.75mm, but when doing so the joint gets weaker, maybe a direct drive is more forgiving in this case but I haven't tried, in fact I've given up on this for now and just rely on the runout sensor. Still worth a try imo, plenty of videos on yt

[Anonymous No.2626233]

>>2626227
>Are we ever going to see good colour mixing hot-ends?
Yes, we're edging already. There are lots of people chasing this goal, CMYK filaments available, projects like Pleccer, all the important shit is already natively supported in Marlin and even by some slicers, and there are multiple unique color-mixing hotends available cheap on Aliexpress. Compared to even a few years ago it's become far easier and more accessible, as well actually being more usable and useful.
It's still not worth the time and effort required for most folks, it's multi-material printing with different headaches and in some cases even more purging, but like anything else it just keeps getting cheaper, easier, and better.

[Anonymous No.2626234]

>>2626210

[Anonymous No.2626242]

>>2625890
Posting retarded wrong shit like this should be a crime. Especially when answering a question.

[Anonymous No.2626254]

the new bigscreen beyond apparently comes with a custom facial interface 3d printed based on a face scan. is there any commercially available filament i can use to print soft foam like that on a standard FDM printer?

will a low shore number TPU (sub 90) filament with low infill % work for something like this?

[Anonymous No.2626263]

>>2626170
>>2626094
I just ordered one of those new bigtreetech boards.

[Anonymous No.2626281]

>>2626234
I'm not sure how that's gonna go through a bowden tube or extruder.

[Anonymous No.2626305]

>>2626210
there are a few designs for printing your own but your shit filament is just going to snap behind the weld. honestly I don't get it, filament is cheap as shit, why would you shove broken brittle pieces into your printer? If you just want to play with multicolor filament in short bursts there are much better ways. And don't fucking use shitty brittle filament when you do.

[Anonymous No.2626306]

>>2626227
>I want to blend TPU and a hard filament
I've fucked up my shit several times trying to do this over the last few days. I have two ideas left with my current equipment. It shouldn't even be that hard but TPU is kind of a bitch.

>>2626227
you think china doesn't also make all the JIS screws? But more importantly thumb screw and screw screw are hardly comparable, just because you have a lot of the wrong thing doesn't make it a good idea.

[Anonymous No.2626307]

>>2626254
just put caps on your eyes and make a cardboard shell and fill it with spray foam. instant custom soft, what more could you want?

[Anonymous No.2626308]

>>2626254
Varioshore might be what you're looking for.

[Anonymous No.2626326]

>>2626263
The duck is the best part.

[Anonymous No.2626329]

>>2626326
What did you buy from them?

[Anonymous No.2626335]

strictly speaking a worm gear printed in ABS would be stronger than PETG or PLA, correct?

[Anonymous No.2626336]

>>2626335
Only if it's going to get hot.

[Anonymous No.2626338]

>>2626335
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRJ4lnNAXY
>>2626336 is right, if they're not going to get hot, PLA+ is actually pretty damn good.

[Anonymous No.2626342]

Damn bro my printer isn't here yet and I'm already overwhelming myself with projects I want to do. 80% of the things I wrote in there I don't even have a clue how I'm going to realize. I have to figure out how to design some brackets, pieces with swivel functionality, mounts, and other shit asap.

[Anonymous No.2626344]

>>2626342
The best part is that if you have any CAD modelling skills at all, you'll find all sorts of weird shit to use it for that you've never expected. It's also a notoriously good at helping you with your other hobbies.

[Anonymous No.2626347]

>>2626344
I like to build quadcopters and the ability to cook up custom mounts is practically a requirement. It was insanity trying to do it without. Fucking love TPU!

[Anonymous No.2626348]

getting back into 3d printing after a 4 month lazy hiatus and just installed a pei flexplate and now i have the strong urge to do unnecessary upgrades again, i really want to get a dual z kit and a sprite extruder pro now....

[Anonymous No.2626351]

>>2626344
>if you have any CAD modelling skills at all

Damn you just hit me right in the nostalgia. I asked myself if I have any modelling skills, then I remembered that in 2009 when I was a little kid I made a skatepark design in what I think was google sketch maybe. I also went around town collecting signatures for the city to build one. I called the local radio and told them what I was doing and asked for an interview. After that the lady at the radio called her friend from the local tv station and got me on there for like a 20 minute interview too.

The city still hasn't built a skatepark lmao.

[Anonymous No.2626352]

>>2626348
>i have the strong urge to do unnecessary upgrades again
I should just leave it as a back up printer now that I have a Bambu X1C and an Ender 3, but I'm tempted to convert my MonoPrice Select Mini v2 to 24V and a mains voltage bed, but I'd probably spend a ton of money and work on a tiny printer and it wouldn't be worth it.

[Anonymous No.2626377]

do people set up print farms, realize its not worth it, then sell it all or something?

[Anonymous No.2626379]

I can have my printer in the corner of my room on the floor right? It just needs a flat surface, the bed to be leveled well, and not to be moved after right? I have literally no space.

[Anonymous No.2626381]

>>2626377
>2 printers
>print farm

[Anonymous No.2626382]

>>2626381
its THREE 'higher' end printers with a terminal thingy

[Anonymous No.2626385]

>>2626382
Need more quotes for """""higher end""""" there, people seem to really struggle with "good" versus "expensive" in 3D printers.
Like with Prusa and now Creality's """"higher end"""" offerings, you spend a lot of money and get fuck all for it.

[Anonymous No.2626393]

>>2626381
I have 6 printers and call it a print farm, and that's because its for me, not like its being used here for a business.

I would say this is gatekeeping, but two does seem low for it to even be considered.

[Anonymous No.2626395]

>>2626393
Yeah, it's kinda like growing one tomato plant and calling it a garden.

[Anonymous No.2626401]

>>2626377
yes. people do this a lot. running a print farm is pretty fucking thankless and they buy a bunch of machines thinking they can print money while they sleep.

[Anonymous No.2626403]

>>2626379
if you print ABS it will stink. otherwise you're golden. my little printer is next to me right now.

[Anonymous No.2626404]

>>2626393
it's buying multiple printers thinking you're going to be a business. I don't think it matters how many, it's the intention behind using them.

[Anonymous No.2626413]

>>2626329
I bought my board from Amazon. It came with a bl touch.

[Anonymous No.2626415]

>>2626413
Oh it was a SKR mini E3 v2. That was back in 2021 though.

[Anonymous No.2626434]

>>2626395
Makes sense, if someone wants a garden but lives in an apartment they would have to make due with a small one, I have thought about growing some peppers, but I don't have the time and I would stop caring after a while.

>>2626404
Oh yeah like on craigslist you search fo computer related parts and just see those DX racer chairs and other electronics where it was obvious the person tried become a twitch streamer, and failed. lmao

[Anonymous No.2626451]

convince me to buy or not to but it, its in cad btw, also cheaper than crealitys official website

[Anonymous No.2626453]

>>2626451
Idk it's just 100 bucks. I'd cop if it's good.

[Anonymous No.2626454]

>>2626451
Holy fuck that's a shitload of money to spend on a Chinese hotend and extruder.
You could put together a setup of equal or greater capability for < $50CAD, or use non-Chink parts for that $100CAD price.

[Anonymous No.2626455]

>>2626451
I guess it depends your goals and what you want to print. It won't really increase the speed of the printer or the ability to print abs and other materials well.

[Anonymous No.2626458]

>>2626454
nooo!!!! you have to buy the microswiss hot end for 150+tip !!!!

[Anonymous No.2626462]

>>2626458
I'm in three different threads on three different boards and I kid you not in the last few minutes someone has made one of these sarcastic "+tip" posts in each one of them.

[Anonymous No.2626473]

>>2626462
In my city one of the major gas station chains now asks if you want to tip before you select your grade, this shit's getting weird and unpleasant.

[Anonymous No.2626476]

>>2626473
Lmao what? Who are you tipping? The gas station? You're talking about one of those self service ones where you pay with card right?

[Anonymous No.2626495]

>>2626476
'Murica

[Anonymous No.2626498]

>>2626476
Remember to tip your landlord, the grocery store self-checkout kiosk, FedEx and UPS drivers, and police too.
When you're shot by a cop, the least you can do is reimburse them for the ammo, they had to go out of their own pocket to get those +P+++ hollow-points that the department doesn't allow.

[Anonymous No.2626513]

>>2626306
I think TPU can only be blended with some thermoplastics, and I'm not sure which ones it will adhere to.
>you think china doesn't also make all the JIS screws
Yeah but the japs have dropped JIS completely as of 5-10 years ago from what I heard (it's really hard to buy the screwdrivers) so it would be unusual if the chinks were still making them and selling them wholesale to a hardware store as phillips.

>>2626351
I still use Google Sketchup

[Anonymous No.2626548]

Why couldn't you just make an N3P "better" at bed leveling by including more points? It's not like the points are hardware-decided, right? I've already got an N3P, and the only thing pushing me towards an N4P is the bed leveling.

[Anonymous No.2626555]

>>2626548
Damn is it bad now? I already ordered my N3P...

[Anonymous No.2626560]

>>2626555
Don't get me wrong, the N3P is still an excellent printer and an unbelievably good choice for the price, it's just that I really hate bed leveling and the only thing I like about the N4P is the improved bed leveling. If I could fix that onto the N3P I wouldn't even think twice about keeping it since nothing else that's supposed to be "better" on the N4P is intriguing to me, especially as someone new to this hobby where I wouldn't be able to tell the difference either way.

[Anonymous No.2626566]

>>2626451
You might as well just save your money for a bambu p1p or k1

[Anonymous No.2626568]

>>2626560
What's wrong with the bed leveling? Also what are you using to run klipper from on yours?

[Anonymous No.2626575]

>>2626568
Since I'm new to 3d printing it might just be me being bad at bed leveling, but I've struggled for WEEKS to print anything articulating. Cleaned the plate, squared the gantry, enclosure/no enclosure, drying filament, new filament, the whole everything. Normal prints are a bit fucky and it's like a 50/50 if the first few layers are gonna work or not, so I'm just blanket-blaming it all on bed leveling since I don't know what else it could be. Also sorry if I gave off the impression that I'm using klipper, I'm not.

[Anonymous No.2626577]

>>2626575
How can the leveling be bad, doesn't it level on it's own? Fuck man I should have waited for the NP4...

[Anonymous No.2626581]

>>2626577
It does level on it's own but you do have to do the paper thingy at the end. Seriously, don't think you've made a bad decision getting the N3P, everyone else online seems to be having nothing but smooth sailing with it so the problem is just localized entirely within my home.

[Anonymous No.2626636]

>>2626581
I'm about to cry bros...

[Anonymous No.2626662]

>>2626636
Okay I don't own a neptune 3 pro, but I will do what I can to help, first off.

Bed sensor is a chinese knockoff of a panasonic proximity inductive probe.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-industrial-automation-sales/GX-H12AI/3896862

As I suspected like any inductive probe the sensor readings drift based on ambient temperatures.

So what I normally do with my inductive probe bed sensors is home my printer and keep my hot end close to the bed and preheat my bed for about ~ 10 minutes, that way when the sensor does start reading 50-60C or whatever temp you use bed it will be reading while the sensor readings drifted, and bed mesh when the bed has been hot for a bit, never do it cold then heat the bed up that will fuck you up.

I do this every time before a print and first layers are great, BUT this isn't a silver bullet, and I can't guarantee this will work for you or help.. but it wouldn't hurt to try it, and see if it helps.

Also, if possible provide pictures of a attempted prints that failed, a picture of how close the nozzle is to the bed whether printing/paper level if that is possible.

Pic related, if you can show this after it does a bed mesh that would be, if you can't no biggie.

[Anonymous No.2626666]

>>2626662
I don't know what any of this means but I hope it helps the dude that has it. You forgot your pic by the way.

[Anonymous No.2626676]

>>2626666
fuck
>>2626662
>trying to help anon and I forgot to add pic
>NGMI

[Anonymous No.2626682]

turned a pic of my dog into a lithopane.

[Anonymous No.2626683]

>>2626451
>>2626566
I bought,
all the other DD all metal hot ends are anywhere from 60-100cad +tip more

[Anonymous No.2626685]

>>2626682
very happy with the result

[Anonymous No.2626692]

>>2626685
>>2626682
Are these difficult to get right? Yours looks good. I want to make a gothrock lantern with litopane walls and usb powered leds that simulate a burning candle on the inside.

[Anonymous No.2626700]

>>2626692
you have to change a few settings on your slicer but seemingly not based on this being my first attempt.

I used the settings from this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haZyRS0yHac

[Anonymous No.2626860]

why the fuck do i keep hearing non stop bitching about fan noise? dont tell me everyone in this hobby lives in poverty and has to put their printer right beside their bed and no where else

[Anonymous No.2626890]

>>2626700
>>2626685
>>2626682
pretty cool anon, I'll keep this in mind when I make something for my wife

[Anonymous No.2626966]

>>2626860
>Ctrl+F
>"fan noise"
>1/1

Sounds like a you problem.

[Anonymous No.2627062]

FULLY MODELED
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6052072

[Anonymous No.2627067]

>>2627062
uuh anon what's this
also are these chink sizes?

[Anonymous No.2627069]

>>2626210
you are honestly better off just putting all your waste material, including the last bit of a spool, in a trash bag and hoarding it until you eventually build your own filament recycling machine and get all the support material and failed prints back.
less than half of a spool turns into actual usable parts (for me at least) the vast majority is waste that could easily be repurposed if you have a recycler. buying one is a bit expensive so you will have to /diy/ one yourself

[Anonymous No.2627074]

>>2627062
why...... i dont think puss puss or anuses look like that

[Anonymous No.2627077]

>>2626860
its just that the only real noise my printer is doing is the PSU fan running at full tilt at any given moment even when its idling. the entire printer is drawing a mere 9 watts after it finished the print and i bet the fan itself is a considerable part of it. only other major power draw atm could be the display.

[Anonymous No.2627086]

>>2626473
First they ask, then they tell. Fuckin kikes...

[Anonymous No.2627087]

>>2627062
>>2627067
What even is this?

[Anonymous No.2627090]

>>2627062
>>2627067
It's a porn model (Like SFM or Daz3D) that's been posed and converted to an .stl.

>>2627087
Vaginal and anal canals viewed from within the model.

[Anonymous No.2627093]

>>2627090
Ok but the 3D printer wont be able to print them?

[Anonymous No.2627108]

>>2627093
yes, some idiot just ripped likely someone else's model and uploaded it as an .stl but didnt bother to actually make it properly printable. theres also tons of details in the face that would at best, not get printed and at worst cause some kind of artifacts.

[Anonymous No.2627148]

>trying to print a miniature scissor jack I found on thingiverse
>print failures every time after finishing the raft
>de-tension the extruder a bit so that it's not grinding the filament quite as much
>print failure again
>chalk it up to being a fluke and try for a third without doing anything to fix the problem
>print failure

>remove ptfe tube from nozzle
>the entire inside of the extruder is molten pfte tubing
>so much melted tubing that it was easier to pick the cotton off of a swab and shove it down the nozzle
>re-attach everything and place an order for a better tube (i'm using the one that creality shipped with my printer)
>no more print errors

Thank you Creality for these chinese-made horrors beyond my comprehension. The stink of molten tubing still hasn't left my fingers.

[Anonymous No.2627175]

>>2627148
PTFE gives off a neurotoxin when it gets that hot

[Anonymous No.2627183]

>>2627175
Well that explains why I'm so damn retarded. I own an Ender after all

[Anonymous No.2627185]

>>2627108
>>2627093
This is honestly one of the worst things with the huge upsurge in people wanting figure sized stuff for printing.
You get tons of idiots converting all sorts of models into STLs without any actual consideration if it would be possible to print in any reasonable way. And retards just eat that shit up as along as the renders look fancy.

[Anonymous No.2627243]

should i really change all my internal connectors to ferrules? i imagine it would take 100 000+ power cycles for the soldered joints to melt

[Anonymous No.2627246]

>>2627243
Yes you should.
Melting solder joints isn't the issue at all. Twisted or tinned wires will displace and spread over time, the connection gets worse over time until you end up with a poor connection, high resistance, and a melted connector or possibly a fire.
Vibrations from normal use contribute to this, as well as thermal cycling (which will happen whether you use the printer or not), there's no "avoiding" it.
Spend the pennies to ensure you don't end up dying a bug's death.
Your homeowners or renters insurance won't give a FUCK about you when they find out your chinkbox with the fake UL sticker set your house on fire.

[Anonymous No.2627257]

>>2627246
ok, you convinced me, a crimp and ferrule kit is 20 bucks on amazon

[Anonymous No.2627288]

>>2625326
>Just put a cardboard box on top of it.
Based

[Anonymous No.2627352]

>>2623019
I have a problem with my Artillery Hornet. The extruder isn't taking any filament in. It starts by taking about 3-5mm, then the gears are still moving but the filament isn't. I've tried to push it by force or change the setting of the spring, but nothing works. I've noticed that some white powder is starting accumulate on the gears, but when I take out the PLA It's not extremely crushed. I need your help

[Anonymous No.2627369]

I need a printer that can swap between 3+ materials, any rec?

[Anonymous No.2627370]

>>2627369
Bambu P1P

[Anonymous No.2627379]

>>2627370
Nice. I was looking at a Bambu Labs printer earlier that was $1500 and didn't realize they made cheaper models. That's about my price range

[Anonymous No.2627380]

>>2627379
No multi-material without the AMS though. Take that $700 and add another $350 for the AMS.

[Anonymous No.2627383]

>>2627380
I figured I would need to get that as well. It should be worth it to finally experiment will polymer composites for new material properties.

[Anonymous No.2627481]

Neptune 3 Pro bros, how big is the printer? Are these the actual dimensions or the print bed size? 25cm width?

[Anonymous No.2627496]

>>2627481
>Are these the actual dimensions
No, that's the size of the things you can print with it.
>Equipment dimensions: 475*445*515mm
Is what I found with a quick search.

[Anonymous No.2627644]

>>2627496
Holy shit lmao it will fit JUST RIGHT to the last milimeter in the corner of my room on the floor next to my wardrobe. Hope my wardrobe doesn't catch on fire.

[Anonymous No.2627714]

>>2627257
Don't buy a Chinese one, they probably make it worse.

[Anonymous No.2627751]

>>2627714
too late, it had good reviews on amazon and was most popular

[Anonymous No.2627815]

60c is too hot for softening butter

[Anonymous No.2627819]

>>2627815
Oh my way too high, you want more like 28C-30C

[Anonymous No.2627850]

>>2627815
>Land O Lakes
>they removed muh injun waifu

[Anonymous No.2627876]

What are Makeblock stepper motors like? They’ve got kinda thin shafts, only 4.5mm diameter (4mm thick at the D) which don’t give me confidence if I’m slipping a 3D printed gear over it. They’re otherwise kinda odd for having ferrules shoved into a phoenix connector, but I can remove those and crimp on a 4-JST.
I can also get Oukeda brand ones, but while the shafts are a bit fatter they’re not as long and are not as available.

Either for like 12USD through my work. Worth?

[Anonymous No.2627928]

Looking into 3D printing a knife sharpening jig for use with a (diamond) whetstone, probably one of these two styles. Does anyone have any experience with making these?

[Anonymous No.2627930]

>>2627928
Just print a new knife poorfag

[Anonymous No.2628045]

>>2626381
>>2626377
what do you even print so much of that you need a farm?

[Anonymous No.2628061]

>>2628045
probably thought they could be successful on etsy

[Anonymous No.2628075]

>>2628061
What the fuck is this stupidass degenerate shit????? There's no way this shit works well or at all even. Why would anyone put PLA on their shit?

>1922 sales

EYYYYOOOO NO WAY HOLY SHIT

[Anonymous No.2628082]

Where did the idea that marble looks like oreo ice cream come from? Every marble filament is just the same thing and none of them look like marble.

[Anonymous No.2628099]

>>2628061
Why the fuck does Etsy allow this shit.

[Anonymous No.2628103]

>>2628099
>Why does Amazon allow counterfeit shit to fill their warehouses?
They don't give a fuck what's being sold so long as they're making money and their lawyers aren't scared.

[Anonymous No.2628107]

Is carbon fiber filament a meme?

[Anonymous No.2628109]

>>2628075
I had to do the math. It's over $63,000 USD at the current exchange rate. That stupid shit made a wealthy retard.

[Anonymous No.2628112]

>>2628075
>>2628107
its 1922 store sales you goofs, not just that clit clamp

[Anonymous No.2628117]

>>2628112
We don't use Etsy.

[Anonymous No.2628118]

>>2628117
etsy is good if you want to buy silicone horse cocks at non bad dragon prices

[Anonymous No.2628119]

>>2628118
I regret choosing to omit "because we're not gay." on my last post.

[Anonymous No.2628133]

>>2628075
>>2628109
>1922 sales
That seller has 1,922 verified sales, total. Doesn't mean they've sold 1,922 of those clit clamps. That's an old picture too, they're up to 4,959 sales TOTAL now, over a period of 215 weeks, an average of 23 sales per week.
At best their profit margin is ~92% with Etsy, realistically it's more like 90%, so their average transaction needs to be over $64 to match median Canadian income, but realistically it's just over half of that.

Given the cost of items in their store and the sales figures we can see, this person is more likely making around $40-45kCAD per year in revenue, net profits in the $36-$40k range.
Not bad, but given they move an average of 23 sales per week, this is a fair amount of work, it'd be a bitch to maintain this while also working another job.
Accounting for the difference in exchange rate between the US and Canada, this is roughly a $14USD/hour job, on par with the minimum-wage upgrades that have been sweeping the US, though I guess that'd be worth a little bit more in Canada given their substantially lower cost of living. (10%-15% lower)

Honestly that's hard to complain about given it's work-from-home, not full time, and the customers are all perverts. If someone's happy with <$30k USD per year I sure can't argue with 3D printing sex toys for a meager living.

[Anonymous No.2628137]

>>2628133
i wish i was good at art so i could draw fucked up porn and make 80k a year through patreon alone

[Anonymous No.2628138]

>>2628112
>>2628117
I use etsy but I made a mistake.

[Anonymous No.2628193]

What chemical can i use to smooth polyamide? DCM? THF?

[Anonymous No.2628207]

>>2628193
Basically, you don't. You can actually store THF in Nylon safely.
There are commercial services that will smooth Nylon parts for you. There is off-the-shelf equipment you can purchase for this specifically, but it's all very expensive.
Even with those, the results are NOT like what you get from vapor-smoothing ABS, picrel is from a company that charges quite a lot for what they do.
I've never seen anyone successfully vapor smooth a Nylon part outside of a professional environment, it requires precise timing and temperature control, and heating aggressive solvents.

You'll be playing with hot sulfuric acid, formic acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrofluoric acid, nitric acid, phosphoric acid, acetic acid, phenols, DCM/formic acid mixes...

[Anonymous No.2628231]

>>2627928
Learn to do it by hand, you will end up with uneven angles on these things.

[Anonymous No.2628232]

>>2627928
Check out this video my dude
https://youtu.be/IM2il-zT2fA

[Anonymous No.2628234]

printing my first order of 20x 35mm film holders, client was okay paying $4 each but then offered $5 each, their 40 grams of pla each

[Anonymous No.2628237]

>>2628234
Great work anon.

[Anonymous No.2628240]

>>2628234
What printer?

[Anonymous No.2628241]

>>2628240
Rooka ryka PeeWonPee

[Anonymous No.2628244]

What is this and why is it happening

[Anonymous No.2628262]

>>2628240
bambu p1p

[Anonymous No.2628290]

>>2628231
Don’t really care, not my knives.

[Anonymous No.2628331]

uhh, new thread when???

[Anonymous No.2628334]

>>2628331
Not before page 10 or people bitch.

[Anonymous No.2628338]

>>2628334
Doesn't even have 500 replies yet, this thread ain't even close to dead.

[Anonymous No.2628344]

Well, I knew it was going to happen, the rocker switch felt cheap on my kp3s pro, I ordered new rocker switches, and a new power inlet, going to swap the switch first and use the power inlet as backup.

[Anonymous No.2628346]

>>2628344
Top-Tier BugQC

[Anonymous No.2628347]

Using Blender, is it possible to model things to exact measurements for 3d printing? You can set metric/imperial units in Blender, but I got a project that I want to print and I'm worried that the measurements are going to be off if I send it off to be printed.

[Anonymous No.2628349]

>>2628347
Yup.

[Anonymous No.2628382]

>>2628344
Same shit happened to my MP Select Mini V2, it always felt cheap as shit brand new, so I wasn't surprised the switch gave out. Ended up buying a 16 pack of switches.