Sewing Thread

[Anonymous No.2598950]

Because I couldn't find one in the catalog. Post projects and questions.
Here's my question for you: has anyone gotten good results with one of these? I can never get the tension right on this thing.

[Anonymous No.2598951]

Got lots of work pants with rips I'd like to fix but I don't know how to begin. What do I need?

[Anonymous No.2598953]

>>2598951
First, you're gonna need lots of work pants with rips...

[Anonymous No.2598954]

>>2598953
Why?

[Anonymous No.2598955]

>>2598951
you're best off using a ladder stitch or just patching them

[Anonymous No.2598958]

>>2598955
I have a lot of time and plan to spend very little money if that's what you're asking

[Anonymous No.2598983]

>>2598950
>thread
kek

[Anonymous No.2598988]

>>2598950
Your best bet, as with all trades, is asking someone who knows a little. Just copy what they do and if they do retarded shit don't do that. Next best bet is youtube vids. You can get the thread from unwanted clothing and a needle is pretty easy to come across

[Anonymous No.2599169]

>>2598958
a ladder stitch can be done with a basic sewing kit, you can make patches with clothes you dont wear anymore
heres a vid demonstrating ladder stitch
https://youtu.be/pPS2CQvpD78

[Anonymous No.2599172]

I've never seen a good review for that style machine that didn't come off like it was sponsored. Maybe they're OK for a double or triple fix of large material. Like stitching a huge canvas cover, then some kind of liquid sealant and tape over. But for stuff that doesn't have to stay outside, just use a traditional sewing machine.

[Anonymous No.2599249]

>>2598950
I could never get this this to work. Anyone have any tips to get this to work?

[Anonymous No.2599540]

>>2598950
>Here's my question for you: has anyone gotten good results with one of these?
I read into those after seeing them come up at thrift stores for cheap a few times. IIRC the type of stitch they do unravels easily if the thread breaks anywhere, and you're basically better off just hand sewing.

[Anonymous No.2599593]

I am armor anon, I dyed 3 bundeswehr splitterschutzwesten. Today I will try another attempt on the 2 greener ones with black and blue dye, should work
>2597089

[Anonymous No.2599594]

>>2599593
>>2597089

[Anonymous No.2600663]

>>2598954
Well, otherwise you couldn't fix them, could you?

[Anonymous No.2600703]

>>2598950
I've only seen these used for "emergencies" and those are usually temporary.

[Anonymous No.2600821]

>>2599249
Me neither. Like, where is the bobbin and underthread? I followed the instructions on a cheap one I bought, but it made no sense and couldn't do anything.

[Anonymous No.2600858]

Just bought my wife a sewing machine, a Singer 4423. She’s very excited. I don’t know shit about sewing machines so I hope it’s a good’un

[Anonymous No.2600868]

>>2600858
Singer is a well established solid brand for sewing machines, it’ll probably last for decades, make sure it gets cleaned/oiled once in a while

[Anonymous No.2600889]

>>2600858
It's a good basic machine with a little power behind it. Has all the essential stuff--buttonholer, adjustable needle position, variety of stitches. Ya done good. Get it serviced once a year, oil it every six months if she sews a lot, and clean under the throat plate every 4 months.

[Anonymous No.2601120]

Is it literally impossible to find info about vintage machines?

pircrel: Gimbels 450 cant find shit about it

[Anonymous No.2601136]

I've started quilting and it's turning into a bit of an obsession. It's fun. This is my second quilt ever.

[Anonymous No.2601143]

Quilt number one

[Anonymous No.2601252]

>>2601120
Japanese-made machine badged by now-defunct Gimbels Dept Stores. Maybe try searching the Internet Archive, to see if you can find an old manual for it or similar Gimbels models. Most were based on Singer machines of the time.

[Anonymous No.2601276]

>>2601120
Quiltingboard.com has a vintage board with a resources sticky. Do you own digging from there, and learn to find boomer forums.

[Anonymous No.2601467]

How do i make a bag out of a pair of jeans?

[Anonymous No.2601483]

>>2601252
>>2601276

thanks

[Anonymous No.2601943]

>>2601143
Not too bad, anon! A great start. I'd say get a little more accurate with your cutting measurements to get that alignment a little more tidy, but otherwise, I think these are super fun. Keep on quiltin on!

[Anonymous No.2602763]

How useful is a straight stitch only machine? I want to sew clothes but much of it would be activewear but also slightly stretchy woven for casual stuff, and also do some upholstery and that sort of thing at least for my current couch and chair’s cushions. Maybe some boat upholstery too. And probably some MYOG stuff too

Point being I found a nice lightly used juki ddl-8700 with servo motor for $500 and can’t decide if it’s worth it. At the moment I’ve got various home machines and was in the market for a serger but if I buy the industrial machine that would delay a serger purchase for the time being.

[Anonymous No.2602796]

>>2602763
It depends on your priorities--clothes or upholstery? Honestly, you can probably do all or most of the upholstery work on one of your existing home machines. But you'll have a time making good looking, long-wearing knits and activewear without a serger/overlock. A straight-stitch only machine is great for lots of repeated stitching, like curtains, pillows, etc.n but is has no real versatility for clothing, esp knits or stretch.

[Anonymous No.2602811]

>>2602796
Yeah I think you're right, the more I consider it the more I figure the serger is a better use of my money. And maybe later a walking foot zig zag industrial or at least one of those small ones like a sailrite for heavier stuff, since the walking foot would be a bigger boon than being able to run 24/7 fast as hell.

[Anonymous No.2602847]

Okay another question. If I want to sew really stretchy stuff, like bike shorts or similar, what is the best stitch? 4 thread overlock? 5 thread safety stitch (does it have enough stretch?), or maybe 3 thread overlock + zigzag? I ask because I've been considering an industrial overlock machine that's a 5 thread safety stitch, and it's my understanding that it can also do a 3 thread overlock by removing a needle, but cannot do the 4 thread overlock. But if the safety stitch isn't stretchy enough, would the 3 thread + zigzag work well?
Also, on a domestic machine like a juki mo654de, are the other stitches worthwhile, like the rolled him and flatlock? Would I be missing out by getting the industrial safety stitch machine instead (it's cheaper which is why I'm considering it)?

[Anonymous No.2602850]

>>2602847
I should say I'm under the impression (but not sure) that a 4 thread overlock is stretchier than the safety stitch.
Also what about for flat seams, is the serger flatlock better, or a zigzag? Would it be better to do one zigzag over the center of the whole overlapped seam, or one along each side, overlapping the edges? If that doesn't make sense I'll try to draw a picture lol.

[Anonymous No.2602852]

Oh and also what about the other common stretch stitches on a domestic sewing machine? I've never tried anything but zigzag, but at least one of my machines has others, like multi-step zigzag or some kind of stretch straight stitch.

[Anonymous No.2603093]

i have 2 square meters of linen does someone have good patterns for dress shirts?

[Anonymous No.2603616]

where do i go if i want to learn how to sew cute lil dolls?

[Anonymous No.2603683]

>>2603093
David Page Coffin has a book on shirtmaking, go pirate that (or buy it I guess, but dude's dead anyway).
>>2603616
Unironically DeviantArt has plenty of tutorials and infographics about that, though I can't vouch for the quality as it's not something that interests me. Also, and I say this fully unironically, but these days pinterest is a better bet than most search engines for finding useful information.

[Anonymous No.2603824]

>>2603683
thanks a ton for pointing me in the right direction!
I'll see if i can find anything on pinterest and deviantart

[Anonymous No.2603833]

>>2603616
If you want to do like chibi plushes, pinterest has free patterns, and etsy has lots of pay patterns. If you're looking to make something more like art dolls, pic rel is a good book for lots of basic info.

[Anonymous No.2603839]

>>2603833
wow thank you!
my goal is to make a huggable doll? if that makes sense.
a bit like a raggedy ann doll

[Anonymous No.2603951]

>>2603616
The /stg/ Soft Toy General thread on /toy/ has a long list of plush-making resources at the top. Maybe look there too.

[Anonymous No.2603954]

Sewing is dope. Made my own plate carriers all matching for the gang.

[Anonymous No.2603957]

>>2603839
not this shit again lmao

[Anonymous No.2604015]

>>2601136
Good job mate

[Anonymous No.2604157]

>>2598951
cheap sewing kit should have most tools u need. u honestly only need a needle and thread, but scissors can make some things easier. youtube vids can teach you which kind of stitch you will want to use. if u have patches, try the backstitch, its fairly strong and should work okay for pants. maybe even do two parallel lines spaced 1/8'' or 1/16'' apart if ur doing heavy lifting

[Anonymous No.2604235]

Are the super cheap parts on amazon just as good as from other places? I assume they all come from China anyway. Talking about like class 15 bobbins and bobbin cases.

Also I need a new take up spring for the tension assembly for an old Morse straight stitch, are the industrial ones the same size as a presumably generic class 15 clone? I may also just need to replace the whole unit I don't know, but I know for damn sure the spring is fucked. The rest of the machine operates soooo smoothly though.

[Anonymous No.2604262]

>>2603957
qrd? am i doomed to be lolbait if i try this?

[Anonymous No.2604300]

>>2603839
>if that makes sense.
We made one as a school project back in the 80s. Ours was 80% worse and floppier then pic rel.

[Anonymous No.2604302]

>>2604300

[Anonymous No.2604339]

>>2603683
>Coffin
>dude's dead
also, is lib-gen down?

[Anonymous No.2604367]

>>2604300
>>2604302
lmao at the first one, second isn't bad looking
however, both of these are for more ambitious than I was considering. just a small doll that's probably going to be made of felt unless I discover felt would be a good material to use
would something like that be too advanced for a starting project?

[Anonymous No.2604368]

>>2604367
>discover felt wouldn't

[Anonymous No.2604386]

>>2604367
Felt is going to pill very badly with wear/abrasion, especially if it's the commomly available wool/acrlic blend. Try either a woven fabric like muslin, or a plush fabric like Minky instead.

[Anonymous No.2604402]

>>2604386
thank you for the guidance here.
I wouldn't want my doll to pill, and although I think muslin would look cuter, making the doll actually soft and huggable might be more of a challenge than I can handle.
I want it to keep complexity down and create a soft doll so maybe I'll just get some minky.
felt is also just what I have on hand right now, so I'll just consider the first one a practice doll

[Anonymous No.2605212]

>>2598950
>>2599249
>>2600821
bird and clamp set. apply that same principle. consider how a regular sewing machine operates:
>fabric feeds across machine
>your hands are guiding the fabric
>the presser foot remains engaged
and compare that to the handheld:
>machine passes across fabric
>your hand is guided by the machine
>the presser foot selectively engages
the biggest functional difference isn't that it lacks a bobbin, it's that it doesn't control and tension the fabric. what the lack of a bobbin does is give you a chainstitch instead of a lockstitch.
>>2599540
>come up at thrift stores for cheap a few times. IIRC the type of stitch they do unravels easily if the thread breaks
not only that, it unravels if you tug the machine away slightly too hard at the end or neglect to tie it off right too. people probably see that and nope out. i was gifted one a couple years ago. it works fine for what it is but i don't ask a lot it.


>>2599593
>>2599594
aww yiss. was hoping to see an update. results looking good so far. much better than the first go! how'd this last round turn out? i spent ages trying to pinpoint exactly what the fiber content is on these. couldn't ever narrow it down beyond 80/20 cotton/poly, 65/35 cotton/poly, or 100% nylon. seems like i learned damn near everything else about it in the process though kek. based SpliSchu. what sort of dye are you using now? did you go the fiber reactive, soda ash, retayne route? disperse? acid? and how's the dye pot, did you find a heatproof enamel paint for the rust or just roll with it?

[Anonymous No.2605216]

>>2598951
>>2598958
>bare minimum equipment
needle, thread, fabric for patches, sharp scissors. a note on thread: slightly darker > slightly lighter when exact match isn't an option. don't compare against the spool, unwind a length of thread and lay the strand atop the fabric.
>helpful/recommended
seam ripper, iron, pins, thimble, smaller scissor for close work
>helpful but optional
a yard each of a lightweight tricot fusible interfacing and a midweight weft insertion fusible interfacing

>basic terms/concepts
basting, seam allowance, flat fell seam,
woven vs knit, plain weave vs twill weave, bias stretch,
pressing vs ironing, cotton vs polyester, threadbare
>basic techniques
the different hand stitches
sewing single thread vs double thread
ways of anchoring the thread


>mending techniques
seaming, patching, darning, combo
which method you go with depends on the rips

i'm using seaming here to refer to two visually similar but fundamentally very different scenarios. 1) restore a busted seam by stitching it back together. 2) repair torn fabric the quick and dirty way by creating a seam. the difference to bear in mind is that 'rip allowance' isn't a thing. don't treat an actual rip like it's a seam without thinking it through first, you can make the garment fit weird and hang funny. ladder stitch earns a special mention here. ladder is Best Stitch. because of reasons (fite me). but ladder can fuck you and this is where it'll do it. i think people see the word invisible associated and sorta mistranslate it. anyhow, the following applies for both scenarios mentioned above: can you gain access to the wrong side of the fabric by turning the garment inside out? if no, ladder stitch it (say for instance the garment has a lining, or the waistband has a tear). if yes, think it through first (maybe backstitch is best friend now, or patching would be the better choice).

an example of patching:
https://youtu.be/w82UNSIYW_c

an example of darning:
https://youtu.be/HXZEV3toMhg

[Anonymous No.2605245]

>>2598950
Is sewing by hand even worth it? Want to stealth sew a think while living with my parents and i don't think using a machine would work.

[Anonymous No.2605258]

>>2601467
lots of ways. easiest would be to hack a leg off, flip it inside out, sew across the hacked off end, flip it back right side out, and add a handle or two. what kind of bag are you wanting?

>>2602763
>>2602847
serger all the way.
>If I want to sew really stretchy stuff, like bike shorts or similar, what is the best stitch? 4 thread overlock?
yes. and the few times it hasn't been stretchy enough, using wooly nylon thread in the loopers solved the issue. the 5 thread safety stitch is at most minimally stretchy. most of what i'm seeing indicates it's basically inelastic, and looking at the structure of the stitch that seems about right.
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2022/04/04/what-kind-of-serger-is-right-for-you
good overview there. my serger is very similar to the juki you mentioned and the extra functionality does come in handy. if it were me, i'd go for the juki.

>>2605245
>Is sewing by hand even worth it?
yes
>Want to stealth sew a think while living with my parents
what sort of stealth think?

[Anonymous No.2605260]

>>2605258
>what sort of stealth think?
Me thinks a fursuit head.
Haven't sewn anything since 3rd grade though so I'll have to do a could of trial runs first.
Should be able to find some kinda basic sewing kit on amazon i feel.

[Anonymous No.2605263]

>>2605260
>stealthily yiffing in hell
my sides. corner store ought to have a basic kit if that's all you need just now. what sort of critter will it be?

[Anonymous No.2605267]

>>2605263
Would be a bit hard to explain to my 50-60yo parents so it's for the best.
It will most likely be an otter of some sort, I'm in the process of ordering a 3d printer as well for the base so I'll be able to skip a lot of the foam sculpting and gluing which seems like a pain.

[Anonymous No.2605268]

>>2605267
https://www.wonderflexworld.com/faq/fosshape/
ctrl-f mascot
dunno shit about foam sculpting, not sure whether this will be any less of a pain but it sure looks neat

[Anonymous No.2605275]

>>2605268
Neat, but I'll stick to printing it, seems easier.
>>2605263
>corner store
Ah, we don't have that where i live, would have to take the bus to some kinda craft supplies thing.
Still need to do research about the kind of fur and stitching I'll need to use so there's no rush anyhow.

[Anonymous No.2605306]

>>2605275
Besides basic sewing tools, when you're working with faux fur, I'd recommend getting an Xacto knife and spare blades, and a white gel pen or white tailor's chalk for darker fabrics. Most faux furs have a knit backing. When marking out pattern pieces on the back of the fabric, white shows up best. Gel pen gives the cleanest line without bleeding thru to the front. When cutting out the pattern pieces, you need to cut just thru the fabric backing and not damage or cut the fur. Much easier and cleaner to do that with a blade than scissors. Backstitch will be the strongest stitch for joining. It's flexible, easy on curves, and stronger than a straight stitch for seams that will be under pressure. Ladder stitch is good for invisibly closing small sections after fitting to a rigid frame, and for sewing darts or attaching surface details. t. plushmaker

[Anonymous No.2605318]

Got this radiator in my hallway that's being a dickhead; always on. The knob's kind of busted so I took it off, ziptied a metal shim to the pushpin and now it's "off".
Seems like the valve works fine enough but there's still heat coming off the pipes, not the radiator itself. Not much, anyhow.
I suspect the bottom right in/out is just flowing the entire time, and heat creeps up through the pipes since the main body is cool and the farthest corner cold.

I have 0 experience in plumbing/heating. I do have a fair amount of experience in general maintenance and DIY, as well as a fair number of general use tools. No pipe/plumbing specific tools beyond wrenches and the like.
Is there a way for me to fix this myself? If so could someone point me towards a guide/basic information document?
If not does anyone have a rough guesstimate on what a plumber would charge? Or perhaps how much the parts cost and time it'd take a professional.

[Anonymous No.2605332]

>>2605260
Honestly, for complex 3D shapes, hand stitching can be rather more straightforward, than trying to figure out how to flatten things out to stitch on a machine.

>>2605258
>serger all the way.
I ended up ordering the Juki, just got it about 20 minutes ago. I don't have any thread for it though, gonna have to hit up the store and hopefully score some clearance jersey or other stuff to practice on.
Ngl I'm pretty stoked rn, no more being constrained by the garbage I can find at clothing stores.

[Anonymous No.2605512]

>>2605306
Nice, thanks you. Just picked up a cheap 8 euro sewing kit to practice with.
>>2605332
We do have a macjmhine at home but i don't really have a good excuse for borrowing it.
Hopefully my carpal tunnel and arthritis ridden wrists hold up though.

[Anonymous No.2605599]

>>2605512
Good luck with the fursuit anon, heavily recommend practicing a blanket stitch or whip stitch for sewing fur for the head. Tons of good tutorials are available on youtube.

[Anonymous No.2605864]

>>2605599
Yus, thanks. Probably going to make it out of or at least train with minky fabric since it's so much cheaper.
Preparing my first sewing attempt on some ripped bed sheets rn. Might bost results

[Anonymous No.2605915]

>>2605864
If you're looking for Minky to practice with, or even longer faux furs, Fabric Empire has the best price/yard. Quality is not top top notch, and color selection is thin, but pricing is the best I've seen online. Been a customer of theirs for over 10 years. Good customer service too.

[Anonymous No.2605934]

>>2605915
I'm in Europe so the shipping from the US would probably be a bit much. Have already found some here that are 100x165cm for 10usd or so. Which seems really cheap. Most are that weird dotted minky but i saw a video on YouTube about how you can remove them by ironing.

[Anonymous No.2605945]

>>2605934
Yeah, the dots are heat embossedn so you can flatten them with steam + pressure from an iron. Just be sure to use a thin otton pressing cloth between the fabric and the iron, so you don't melt or damage the fabric.

[Anonymous No.2605947]

>>2598950
sewing is for women

[Anonymous No.2605978]

>>2605945
Good idea. The girl i saw doing it just went raw but serms more secure with a piece between.

[Anonymous No.2605979]

>>2605947

[Anonymous No.2606315]

I want to make a gamberson like this because I like medieval stuff:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=9Bgew7DOoHU

How do I sew this without using machines? What tools do I need?

[Anonymous No.2606339]

>>2606315
If you want to hand sew it, then just a needle, thread, and a thimble. You may want one of those palm things like traditional sailmakers use (pic related) though too, since something like that is going to be thick and the needle may stick. Probably a mallet too for trying to flatten shit out and some pliers just in case for pulling the needle. Anyway, should be a pretty straight forward garment to construct, but it will be time consuming to do by hand since it's basically quilted.

[Anonymous No.2606370]

>>2606315
Tools: chalk or a pencil for drawing out the pattern and the quilt lines, needle, thread, ruler to get parallel quilt lines, thimble, scissors, fabrics, pattern, iron to press seams. If you want to bind the edges like he did, double fold bias tape or enough fabric to make your own bias tape. Couple dumb things that he did: lay the pattern on the crossgrain. Used modgepodge (wtf?) on the raw edges. Sewed the garment then quilted it. Glued his knots (again wtf?). Don't do those, k?
Lay the pattern on the straight grain so the line from neckline to hem is parallel to the selvage. Whipstitch your raw edges to keep them from ravelling. Add an inch to each seam allowance beyond the pattern edge, quilt each piece then sew the sections together AFTER quilting. Quilting reduces the length and width of a section. Use a much smaller quilting stitch than he used. Wash, dry and iron the fabric to preshrink it before sewing. Learnto do a tailor's knot or anchor backstitch instead of gluing the knots. Press the seams open or to one side after sewing.

[Anonymous No.2606520]

>>2606339
>>2606370
Thanks frens.
I will have to yandex most of the terms because I am a complete noob at this, but I really want to do that project. What if I use a machine to sew, is there are cheap machine that is capable of doing it, or am I fated to have to do it by hand cuz machines that are able to do it are expensive?

[Anonymous No.2606521]

>>2606520
*is there a

[Anonymous No.2606534]

>>2606520
Any machine could handle this.

[Anonymous No.2606537]

>>2606534
Can you suggest some models please?

[Anonymous No.2606546]

>>2606537
>Can you suggest some models please?

I was always kinda partial to Kathy Ireland.

[Anonymous No.2606581]

>>2606537
Literally any machine you can buy or access or borrow can sew this, evenreally cheap beginner machones. As long as it runs. No need to recommend a model, really.

[Anonymous No.2606593]

>>2606546
B.1963 proving the other Boomer women have no excuse for looking like my balls.

[Anonymous No.2606646]

>>2606546
She got them Ben Sharpie-ro eyebrows

[Anonymous No.2606666]

A serger the best way to finish an edge? I only have a straight stitch machine. Folding the edge isn't enough for me.

[Anonymous No.2606677]

>>2606666
Nice quads there Satan. Finishing depends on the fabric and garment. French seams (very fine sheer fabrics), bound edges (wool suiting), Hong Kong finish (silks, suiting, etc.) are other ways to finish with a straight stitch. Pinked edges are good for wovens. Whipstich finishes edges that ravel, like sweater knits or boucle. There's no one-size-fits-all way to finish raw edges.

[Anonymous No.2606822]

>>2606546
What do you mean, will she help me sew the damn gamberson? Kek

[Anonymous No.2606835]

How do you prewash cloth when you have a large quantity? Do you just do the whole thing at once, or cut some off and wash it? I don't want to create excess waste by cutting too much too little while accounting for shrinking. Right now I've got a roll of 10 yards of like 66" fabric to I just toss the whole fucker in the washer?

[Anonymous No.2606839]

>>2606315
I made a gambeson for HMB with no prior sewing experience. took me a while but its def doable. My cheap silvercrest (Lidl) did fine through 3 layers of wool, but u might want to hand quilt it with five layers.
I'd suggest sewing the main parts of the shell together first then adding the padding (without the seam allowance!!) in with a quick basting stitch, before quilting it properly.
U can add a lining but I dont think its necessary, mine doesn't have one and it makes repairs easier.

Wait until u quilted the arms before closing them into "tubes", it'll be easier. Also, quilt the body and the arms, and only then attach the arms to the body. again, it makes everything simpler.

good luck it's a cool project, it really got me into sewing and its one of my main hobbies now

[Anonymous No.2606848]

>>2606835
Lay out the unwashed fabric flat and place the pattern pieces on the fabric as you would place them for cutting. Add about 5-6" then cut off that section of fabric and wash it. Fold the rest up for another project.

[Anonymous No.2606961]

Bought some upholstery thread bundles with some needles and the needles are disappointingly dull. What would be the best method of sharpening them? I've seen some needle sharpening tools but I'm not too sure.

[Anonymous No.2606992]

>>2606961
If you have a very fine sharpening stone or honing stone you can just use that. Simply rotate the needle as you pass it across the stone.

[Anonymous No.2607791]

>>2606961
You'll read some online bs about using steel wool and plunging the needles in and out. Just don't. You'll end up with a dull(er) point and snagged fabric. Use a stone like anon above said, being careful to keep the angle to the dtone consistent and you turn the needle.

[Anonymous No.2608542]

>>2598950
Newfag to sewing here, aiming to eventually make my own clothes or at least some bits for reenacting. I have a singer tempo 60 to hand, any suggestions for beginner projects?

Ta

[Anonymous No.2608554]

>>2608542
When I taught sewing, I'd always start with a simple pair of elastic waist pajama pants or shorts. Lots of fitting ease, so hard to fuck up, but lots of sewing skill sets: how to measure yourself to find your pattern size, learning about ease, casings, inserting elastic, hems, sewing curves, finishing seams, crotch depth, stitch length, pinning, cutting single vs doubled layers, fabric pattern matching, etc. See pic rel for a sample "easy" unisex pattern.

[Anonymous No.2608556]

>>2608554
Ta anon never thought about making pj's, mind's often occupied by making something like in Bondarchuk's war and peace, been binge watching that film series recently.

[Anonymous No.2608958]

>>2608542
That shirt is a decent beginner project, but it's designed more for hand stitching than machine sewing. Many of those steps will be less straightforward on a machine, while they'd be perfectly simple by hand albeit slower.

[Anonymous No.2608963]

Which stretch stitches are most vital for sewing arbitrary clothing? Say, beyond the basic zi- zag, how much would I miss not having them? I have a serger now, so that will cover most needs AFAIK, but some situations still call for a sewing machine. I've seen a few thigns where they call for a stretch straight stitch or triple straight stitch or whatever, but does it make that much difference versus a zig-zag or a multi-step zig-zag?
Reason being I already have a Singer 237, but I'm thinking about picking up a cheap Singer 401a since it's supposed to be a great machine, but other than a billion decorative stitches it doesn't add much beyond the 237, except for the multi-step zig-zag. I could also get a slightly newer Singer 600 series which I believe does have some of those other stitches, but also may have a few plastic oy nylon gears that at this point are >60 years old and prone to breakage due to age.

[Anonymous No.2608966]

>>2598950
>Sewing Thread
sewing is not easy if you have no idea how to. i bought a machine and it confuses the shit out of me to this day.

[Anonymous No.2608973]

>>2608966
Have you considered getting some idea how to?

[Anonymous No.2608983]

>>2608973
I'm going to join a sewing circle. So yeah.

[Anonymous No.2608992]

>>2608963
If you're sewing a lot of strong stretch fabrics (think swimsuits, bike shorts, etc.) or making bras, wirh comfort stretch elastic, then a straight or zigzag stretch stitch is invaluable for turning and top stitching hems, inserting elastic, etc. But for regular weight knits (tshirts, jerseys, sweater knits, etc.), wovens, etc., you can by without them. Xana04

[Anonymous No.2609073]

>>2608983
we are your sewing circle

[Anonymous No.2609127]

>>2608992
So would having just the 3 step zig-zag stretch stitch but not the straight stretch stitch be sufficient? Kind of hard to find the right balance between price, reliability, and versatility.
Probably get the 401a anyway though cause fuck it, why not add it to the collection lol.

[Anonymous No.2609128]

On a table like pic related, what are the odds the legs unscrew at that metal band so I can fit the thing in my car?

[Anonymous No.2609129]

>>2609128
Lol forgot the pic.

[Anonymous No.2609181]

>>2608542
Cheapest is probably buying oversized thrifted clothes and tailoring them to your own fit.

[Anonymous No.2609214]

>>2609127
I think it would be more than adequate. I rarely use a stretch straight stitchn easy enought to substitute a narrow zigzag instead on knits.

[Anonymous No.2609216]

>>2609129
Probably will. Just be careful. The lower legs might be glued in. Better to drop the machine down and lock in place, close the extension and tie it down, then turn the whole thing in its side in the back seat.

[Anonymous No.2609260]

>>2609073
>we are your sewing circle
ty, need to dart some t-shirts. you use a straight edge to keep the line?

[Anonymous No.2609265]

>>2609260
Yes, if the dart legs are straight. If they're cured I use a hip curve ruler. Make sure to mark the center fold line.

[Anonymous No.2609278]

Is there a reliable modern machine you'd get for a 9 year old? I'm a basic bitch, I probably only need straight stitch for hobby tier shit but I want my kids to learn and not have it be too complex or broken all the time. Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.2609458]

>>2609216
Main worry is that it wont fit through the door. I was hoping to take the legs off and set it flat in my trunk. But those round legs don't look like they're simply bolted into the cabinet the way the square leg ones often are. Guess I'll find out.

>>2609214
Awesome. Hopefully with a bit of practice I can get to where I'm sewing more or less my entire wardrobe.

[Anonymous No.2609499]

I was trying to make some custom lashing straps, I’m pretty much a beginner but I sewed a few cat hammocks and pencil cases etc earlier.

Using Dyneema webbing, 25mm wide, about 2mm thick with dynforce 40 thread. No matter what I do I get a ‘rats nest’ underneath after 10 or 15 strokes. With normal webbing it works fine. I readjusted the thread tension, dogs, oiled the machine etc already. Anyone know what I should do? Better needle and if so what kind? 1908 singer model 15 btw

[Anonymous No.2609506]

>>2609499
It sounds counter-intuitive but birds-nesting on the underside usually indicates a problem with the top thread, not the bobbin. Couple of things to look at: 1) are you using a new needle that is the correct type for your thread and fabric? Needles develop burrs quickly with web fabrics. Try a new heavy duty, microtex or leather needle. 2)Rethread the top thread, making sure the thread sits properly between the tension discs. 3) Check how the top thread feeds off the spool. It should flow smoothly and not hang up or snag on the spool edge. 4) Are you using the same thread in the bobbin? Thread weights should match for best results. 5) Is the bobbin case clean or full of lint and thread bits? If it's dirty, clean it out and try again.

[Anonymous No.2609514]

>>2609506
Thanks for the swift and informing reply anon! I’m not sure which needle to use for it have only used ‘standard’ so far, but it’s as good as new and has no burrs. The thread sits okay, redid it a few times and the tension seems good. Same thread in bottom, but I really suspect it’s the fabric because it sews okay on pe webbing.

So I’ll check the other stuff (if bobbin case and thread flow), and try to find a more suitable needle then right?

[Anonymous No.2609683]

Went and bought the 401a in its cabinet. Legs did not readily detach, but I managed to fit it in my backseat.
Any tips on how to clean the exterior? It's not dirty exactly, but has some dark residue along seams in the metal, and over all looks a bit matte rather than glossy.
Also missing both thread posts which is no big deal, and needs a new bobbin winder rubber wheel thing. And I just realized it has a straight stitch foot on it, though not the straight stitch plate. Did not come with any accessories sadly, so I guess I'll have to order a general purpose foot.
Anyway, wheels turned smoothly, I just let it run for a few minutes it was quite fast and nothing sounded wrong.

[Anonymous No.2609807]

What kind of grease should I use for the gears in my sewing machine?

[Anonymous No.2609816]

>>2609514
>>2609499

What kind of machine is this? It sounds like a tension issue. 2mm webbing is pretty heavy for a home machine, I assume you've tried just maxxing out the tension? Pretty much no risk of breaking that thread, so I'd just try it as high as it goes.

I actually just made a padded cover so thick it didn't even really fit under the needle properly. Ended up having to do some jank routing of the thread to get more tension than the tensioner could normally provide. You may have to do similar on a light machine.

[Anonymous No.2610116]

>>2609807
I use SuperLube. Sailrite carries it in a precision pen applicator.

[Anonymous No.2610118]

How important is it really to match your thread to your fabric color? Especially when your fabric has different colors, like a floral print? I don't want to end up with a bunch of spools of thread I'm only going to use once. Does the bobbinthread have to match too or can I just use white, black, greys inthe bobbin?

[Anonymous No.2610129]

>>2610118
Completely up to you.

[Anonymous No.2610130]

>>2609499
>>2609514
try increasing the foot pressure. try basting it by hand first too.
>I really suspect it’s the fabric because it sews okay on pe webbing.
dyneema is pe too. it's just more slippery, cut resistant, and inelastic than the other webbing.
a walking foot would also help. mind the width if you get one, there are ones compatible with your machine. also seconding the denim needle suggestion. you know how to check your needle and thread sizes against each other to make sure they work well together?

>>2610118
personal preference really. some people do all their sewing with various grey shades. a light color (meaning lighter than the fabric) will visually stand out more than a dark one. with multicolor prints when you're wanting the stitching to blend in, choosing a thread that matches a dominant color in the fabric is a popular strategy. another is to match the thread to the brightest accent color so it purposefully contrasts visually with the rest but in a harmonious way.

[Anonymous No.2610131]

>>2601136
Hi... Um... r u. an.. uh.. a w-women?

[Anonymous No.2610250]

>>2598953
I legitimately laughed pretty hard at this

[Anonymous No.2610290]

I've got a Morse super dial straight stitch machine and the upper thread tension is right fucked. It may or may not be missing parts in the tension unit but I know for sure the tension spring is fucked cause I fucked it, accidentally pulled it apart and stretched it.

Anyway, will a thread tension spring from a Singer fit it? I think it's basically a Jap made Singer clone anyway.

Also how bad is some slight corrosion on the tension discs? I have some micromesh pads so I should be able to polish that shit smooth af.

[Anonymous No.2610423]

>>2598950
Made my own wallet. At first with paper reinforced with tape and staples, then with leather and stitched by hand (horrible results) and then with silver tape sheets stitched by hand. This one came out almost perfect, the design is exactly what i wanted and the stitching was perfect.
But i made it maybe 5% too small.
And then the law changed over here and i don't have to carry my driver's license anymore and one credit card stuck to my phone case solves everything else so no more wallet.
I want to make a new one but i need a decent material for it and i've never found it. The tape is not bad but i don't want to make the same thing again.

[Anonymous No.2610603]

I think I asked before but just want to double check, would "reel butter" fishing reel grease be suitable for my sewing machine's gears? Any reason not to use it?
It's fully synthetic, supposed to be safe on any metal and plastic, bond to brass gears, water proof, rust inhibiting, etc.

Pic related. I already have it so I'd rather not buy more grease when I only need a tiny amount lol.

[Anonymous No.2610841]

>>2609683
>Any tips on how to clean the exterior? It's not dirty exactly, but has some dark residue along seams in the metal, and over all looks a bit matte rather than glossy.
sewing machine oil and a gorillion cotton balls & cotton swabs

>>2610290
>Anyway, will a thread tension spring from a Singer fit it?
might do.
https://www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/upper-thread-tension-check-spring-part-b2354
https://www.etsy.com/listing/840257532/tension-assembly-for-vintage-morse?show_sold_out_detail=1&ref=nla_listing_details
>I think it's basically a Jap made Singer clone anyway.
definitely jap made but morse weren't singer clones. far as i know anyway.

>Also how bad is some slight corrosion on the tension discs?
bad enough it probably wants addressed if you've been having tension issues. this site is a real gem.
https://pungolivinghome.com/2019/05/14/ultrasonic-cleaning-a-gift-from-heaven-for-a-guy-like-me/
there's a super dial entry among the restoration pages. nice clear photos too. should answer the question of whether you're missing a piece if nothing else.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=ABYrdfC4p3M

[Anonymous No.2610851]

>>2610423
oilcloth maybe?
>i need a decent material for it and i've never found it.
if you had found it, what would it be like? describe your perfect wallet material. or explain what sucked about the leather, what you liked about the silver tape sheets (duct tape?), what would've made it perfect, etc.

[Anonymous No.2611000]

>>2610851
>oilcloth
Damn, that exists! Sounds pretty damn good.
It's tough/thin ratio is pretty good but doesn't that material crack and flake with use?
Leather was bad because it's difficult to work with no proper tools and is a bit too thick.
I don't know shit about shit, hence why i chose the materials i chose. Whatever is easy to use and available was my choice.
I might no resist the temptation and end up making another wallet if i come across the obviously right material.

[Anonymous No.2611436]

>>2610841
Damn, appreciate the thorough reply. I guess I just assumed the Morse was a Singer clone, since so many Japanese machines back then were, though I've always heard they were quite high quality sometimes a fair bit better than the Singers themselves.
Anyway, I went ahead and ordered that spring you linked to, since I realized (looking at my tension unit again) that the end loop on the Singer spring would get in the way. Should work, but there shipping is slow so it'll be a bit before I know for sure. Also kind of disappointed the spring looks kind of gray, since my original spring was a nice shiny chrome. Oh well.
Also took the tension unit back apart and spent some time with micromesh and got rid of the small spot of corrosion and polished that disc up. Luckily the corrosion was not deep, it felt pretty smooth even before I cleaned it up, I could just feel it if I ran my fingernail across it. Both discs feeling glassy smooth now though. And if it doesn't end up working I'll just order new discs.
And finally, I think one of my issues with thinking I might be missing parts or something was simply the set screw for the central shaft in the tension unit wasn't in tight enough, so the whole shaft would turn a bit, driving me crazy because on the front there was a little piece marking zero that would end up getting turned around. It's one of those plastic dials, not the shiny metal ones. The machine I have looks like pic related (low res but only picture I could find that matched mine, that style seems less common and even then most seemed to have the metal tension unit not the plastic dial).

Really want to get this thing fixed up though, most of it's problems are my fault being stupid and taking stuff apart years ago for some purpose I don't even remember. When I bought it it was practically new old stock, came with the original tags and manual and all the accessories new in box, with the factory cellophane. Even have a spare lightbulb and 60+ year old oil lol.

[Anonymous No.2611439]

How do I stop myself from buying sewing machines I don't need?
The price is a little high but if they go down lower, there's a nice 301 near me, in a cabinet. Don't need another straight stitcher, but it's in that classic black with gold trim and looks sexy...

[Anonymous No.2611540]

>>2598950
These things suck. Easier to learn how to stitch with a needle and thread than use one of these shit things.

[Anonymous No.2611574]

>>2610118
it comes down to how neat you can sew
do you want to show how jagged and crooked your lines are, or do you want to show off how perfect you can sew

[Anonymous No.2611763]

>>2611574
I don't get what you're saying. If the stitches are crooked then thread color doesn't matter? Or it does matter? You're not very clear on your "advice" there.

[Anonymous No.2611854]

I get a regular supply of second-hand shirts that are slightly too big for me. Could learning to sew help me tailor them to my size?

[Anonymous No.2611858]

>>2611763

I think that was supposed to be "do you want to hide how jagged and crooked your lines are".

[Anonymous No.2611896]

>>2611763
Different color = stitches visible = they need to be pretty but you can show them off if they are
Same color = stitches hidden = don’t need to be that pretty but if they are very good nobody will see them

> Especially when your fabric has different colors, like a floral print?
I’d use a color that doesn’t match any of the pattern, it looks weird if a line ‘disappears’ for a bit because the colors match. But whatever you prefer

> Does the bobbinthread have to match too or can I just use white, black, greys inthe bobbin?
Doesn’t have to match but use the same thickness to avoid surprises

[Anonymous No.2611933]

I want to learn to sew so I can make military uniforms for my jp dolls. How should I start and what equipment do I need?

[Anonymous No.2611984]

>>2598950
had one of those for about 10€, was utter shit

[Anonymous No.2612109]

>>2611933
All you really need is some hand sewing needles, thread, and cloth. You can use a machine too, but dolls clothes are pretty small so might as well do it by hand.

[Anonymous No.2612117]

>>2598950
Do they make sewing awls for light fabrics? I can't find any that aren't heavy gauge needles meant for leather and tarps.

[Anonymous No.2612183]

>>2611763
i was high as hell when i wrote that, its supposed to mean this yea >>2611858

[Anonymous No.2612207]

been practicing with the antique singer but still not quite right, is there a trick to let the fabric pass through more straightly? I have to use right hand to drive the hand crank. Surely the 1910s tailors made straight stitches somehow

>>2612109
Was going to comment this but it’s 4chan so you never know how big peoples dolls are

[Anonymous No.2612211]

>>2612117
This is one of the ones I have. https://www.clover-mfg.com/product/9/275

There are finger mount tailor's awls too, as well as ballpoint awls.

[Anonymous No.2612225]

>>2611854
Yes. Before I retired (seamstress who also did alterations) I had a regular customer who had wide shoulders, a thick neck and upper arms, but a slim waist and narrow hips. Think football or baseball player. He'd buy shirts to fit his chest and neck , and I'd take in the sleeve length, waist, and extra fabric in the shirt back.

[Anonymous No.2612276]

>>2612183
No harm no foul. I was hammered when I read it, so yeah. All good bro

[Anonymous No.2612733]

>>2612207
Here’s babies first project btw. Didn’t have a laptop sleeve the right size. Felt probably isn’t the right material but it’s just to protect it from other stuff when in panniers

[Anonymous No.2612745]

>>2612733
This looks great! Felt isn't too bad of a material either, because it's got a bit of water-repellant to it while it's in your panniers too.

[Anonymous No.2612749]

>>2612745
Thanks, I aspire to some day make my own travel/camping gear. But trying learn using the machine well before I spend a lot of money on durable/expensive materials

[Anonymous No.2612853]

Why is shipping on cloth always so expensive? Like $0.99/yard sounds great until it's like $2-$3/yard for fucking shipping.

[Anonymous No.2612865]

>>2612749
I like this and this is what I am trying to do as well.

[Anonymous No.2612932]

>>2611000
checked
depends what kind you get. if the material is more coating than fabric, then yes expect cracking and flaking. if your wallet design is trifold, bifold, or has any sort of flap, you can expect it to happen sooner.
>tough/thin ratio
>difficult to work with no proper tools
>bit too thick
>easy to use and available
gotcha. two other materials that might fit the bill are ballistic nylon and ripstop nylon. ripstop is thinner; ballistic is hardier; either will outlast oilcloth. i'll caution you that fabric isn't the way to go if you're looking for longevity and hard wearing durability. the two nylons won't deteriorate rapidly enough to become structurally unsound but the wallet will look ratty as shit after a few years of normal daily use riding in your pocket. duct tape is unironically a more suitable material that'll hold up much better over time. re: leather, any cobblers or shoe repair shops nearby? pop in sometime when it's not real busy. bring the wallet along so he can see exactly what it is you're wanting to do, and tell him some basket weaving faggot from the internet suggested asking a shoemaker if he has any scrap offcuts of 1-2oz lining you could buy. might get lucky. tools you'd need are a razor blade, an awl, a steady hand, a cutting board, a second needle, and any yt vid on saddle stitching.

[Anonymous No.2612953]

>>2611436
>Damn, appreciate the thorough reply.
anytime. happy to hear it was useful. the cellophane kills me. dunno why either. your post was a whole pile of lovely good news with one hell of a cherry on top. spring looks like a match, discs sound like they're in great shape, set screw discovery resolved the missing parts question... and i'm just sat here onionsfacing internally over the cling film. fuck sake, kek. man what a find though! what's the manual like?? and the accessories? is it an R-5L or does it have a different model number?

morse history was short and great and reads like a straight up shitpost.
>be 1948 yankland
>suddenly, a wild Philip Morse appears!
>shenanigans_engage.exe
>tricks loads of people into buying from him
>sells high quality absolute units for 7yrs
>gets called out by FTC jannies for larping
>refuses to elaborate
>leaves
both the main company and the sock puppet apparently went under shortly thereafter, but new machine sales somehow didn't knock off until the sixties. sidepiece company was even named Mercury for extra lulz and strategery. complete piss take. the spotty documentation sucks though. i decided against a 'broken' morse that in all likelihood would've only needed cleaning and went with a necchi in better condition mainly because of the crazy disparity in available info on each machine. the necchi is tits but i'll still jump on a morse in a heartbeat whe- i mean IF i find one cheap locally. they're just such cool machines.

>Really want to get this thing fixed up though, most of it's problems are my fault being stupid and taking stuff apart years ago for some purpose I don't even remember.
pffft. i once spent half an hour trapped under a door because it slightly annoyed me. shit happens. the tension issue is already coming along well. what else? anything get rekt besides the spring?

[Anonymous No.2612983]

>>2611439
>but if they go down lower
whatever figure you have in mind there, cut it in half. make that your new maximum acceptable price.

>>2612207
is it going off to one side, like how a car does if the alignment's off and you let go of the wheel, or is it just generally hard to keep the fabric headed where you want it to go? the first is a machine adjustment, the second is a you adjustment. also where are your eyes? do you stay watching the needle the whole time? watch the fabric not the needle once you get going. watch how the edge is moving past. focus on keeping it straight.
>>2612733
fully agree with anon here, you did a fine job on this.

>>2612853
dunno but i encourage your cheap bastardry on the matter if you're just starting out. dead serious. look locally too.

[Anonymous No.2613000]

>>2612983
Thanks for the solid advice

> is it going off to one side, like how a car does if the alignment's off and you let go of the wheel, or is it just generally hard to keep the fabric headed where you want it to go?
It wanders towards the side where the fabric is the heaviest usually so edge stitches tend to go towards the edge. Increasing the pressure on the foot doesn’t seem to help.

> watch the fabric not the needle once you get going.
Will try to do this more, thanks. It’s tempting to look at the needle but I did notice sometimes the fabric moves or folds over on itself while I’m not paying attention

I think I’ll make a small tool bag next, any suggestion for a cheap but slightly stronger fabric that isn’t too hard to sew?

[Anonymous No.2613029]

>>2613000
no prob. have you got any hardcover books? arrange a few stacks around the machine to mimic what's in the pic. the fabric is shifting under its own weight. bringing the surrounding table surface up level with the bed of the machine will alleviate that. if no books or other suitable risers are handy, scoot the machine back enough so the fabric is supported by the front edge of the table rather than hanging off it.

>I think I’ll make a small tool bag next, any suggestion for a cheap but slightly stronger fabric that isn’t too hard to sew?
hard to go wrong with cotton duck. get samples of a few different weights if buying online. there's a nice succinct explanation here
https://www.fabricwholesaledirect.com/collections/duck-fabric
ballistic nylon is another option. that's the stuff you see on soft-sided black luggage and holsters and the like. duck cloth will give you an easier time.

[Anonymous No.2613805]

Got some various parts in including the tension spring for my Morse straight stitch machine. With that and having polished the tension discs a few days ago, seems to do fine. The stitch length indicator numbers don't seem accurate but that's no big deal since I don't need an exact number any way, so long as I can vary the stitch length.
Noticed now though that the rubber torus for the bobbin winder I guess is a bit dry, it won't turn the bobbin winder. Looked fine and felt rubbery but I guess it doesn't get enough friction. Wish I'd realized that before I ordered parts so I could grab a new one. Also found out the class 15 plastic bobbins don't seat all the way on the bobbin winder either, so the tab won't go down and that would also prevent it from winding bobbins. Pain in the ass because I just bought a pile of plastic class bobbins. I can always use another machine to wind but it annoys me.
Also noticed an issue maybe with belt tension but also the screw to engage or disengage the needle. If I ran the machine full tilt it seemed like it would slightly loosen that and the needle would slow down and then the belt would also slip a little or something. Don't know what to do about that, since I tightened it plenty hard. I guess I can fuck with the belt tension and see if that helps.

[Anonymous No.2613808]

Bought more fabric material. Can't wait to fuck it up.

[Anonymous No.2613975]

How do I make pouches and tie bags

[Anonymous No.2614012]

>>2613975
The easiest method imo is take a piece of fabric (twice as wide as your pouch), put a seam along the top for the string, fold in half, stitch the other two sides together stopping an inch short towards the top, then fold inside out.

[Anonymous No.2614962]

Got replacement thread spool pins for my Singer 401a... How do you put those on? They're just plastic sticks, do you simply jam it in the hole real hard?
Pic related.

[Anonymous No.2615253]

>>2608542
came here for this
for the past year or so I've been looking for a wool shirt and I can't find it anywhere
I'm so fed up with it that I'm about to do it myself
how hard could it be, assuming I'm not retarded and I do a couple of tries before the final one?
all I want is the typical canadian flannel shirt, but made of real wool

[Anonymous No.2615305]

>>2615253
Shouldn't be terribly difficult. Just find a pattern you like and make a muslin first so you can alter it and get the fit right. Also do plenty of practice stitching to make sure you can get clean top stitching.

You can also find a copy of this book to help:
https://www.amazon.com/Shirtmaking-Developing-Skills-Fine-Sewing/dp/1561582646
though there are tons of resources online on blogs or youtube about shirt making and tailoring it to fit and what not.

[Anonymous No.2615312]

>>2614962
yes, press fit by hand

[Anonymous No.2615471]

>>2615253
Pretreat any fabric you get at least once because shrinkage. Use whatever method you'll use to clean it after, so washing n hang, dry clean, etc.
For sewing, practice collar points so you don't get bunny ear points. Practice collarband top stitching and buttonholes and sewing/forming sleeve plackets, and cuff attachments. Practice hems and use flat pattern joining for sleeves instead of in-the-round insertion. Nicely finished shirts aren't hard but plaids are a bitch to work with.
You'll need 1+ extra yds of fabric to match plaids across the front, at side seams, pockets and plackets, yoke, and sleeve heads. Doesn't matter how careful your sewing is, if your plaid lines don't match it's going to look like crap.

[Anonymous No.2615484]

>>2615253
jesus christ. https://www.pendleton-usa.com/ or the bay.

[Anonymous No.2615806]

>>2615305
>>2615471
Thank you, I'll take a look at your suggestions. I never made any clothes before and it looks fun.
>>2615484
Thanks Anon, will search some more. I'm not in the US and in EU they only sell from the UK, which is expensive as fuck since Brexit. Their shirts cost literally double the price and you have to add customs and shipping on top of that, which could increase it 50% more. I'm not paying 500$ for a shirt I can't try beforehand.
They also don't specify anything about the weight of the wool and try to hide the fact that their shirts are made in Mexico. I'm not saying they can't be trusted, but at the very least it's shady.

[Anonymous No.2616029]

no idea how I ended up here, but fuck you, I don't need another hobby!
>>2600858
>Singer 4423
I'll get one of these
how expensive is it to make your own clothes? I never like anything they sell out there

[Anonymous No.2616042]

>>2616029
Outright costs mainly are in materials--fabric, interfacing, thread, etc. Fabric costs will vary wildly--dollar a yard for muslin to $120/yd+ for silks, velvet, designer fabrics, etc. The hidden cost is of course time. A Chanel style tweed jacket can take 300 hours to make in a haute couture manner. You can half-ass it in 20 hours. Expenses all depend on you.

[Anonymous No.2616071]

>>2616042
thank you Anon
at least for now I'm looking forward to make my underwear and shirts
in the future I'd like to make jackets or socks or whatever
>The hidden cost is of course time
this is what I have a lot of, and every time I try a new hobby I eventually reach a point where I'm slightly above average at it, and then lose all interest

>somehow related
I got into tanning lately and have a few almost finished sheep skins
what clothes could I make with them? a vest is the only thing I can think of

[Anonymous No.2616083]

Question on fabric weights... maybe somebody has some experience.
I need some linen cloth for a garden chair, pic related. What's a suitable ballpark here? I can go up to 630g/m2, but at what point is it overkill (keeping skin comfort in mind)?

[Anonymous No.2616114]

>>2616083
I would say suitable ballpark 250-300gsm but they’re mostly made out of dralon these days for durability reasons, I think some insects or molds can eat linen

[Anonymous No.2616515]

where do you get patterns? (for free obviously)

[Anonymous No.2616569]

>>2616515
Learn to draft your own.

[Anonymous No.2616749]

>>2616515
any particular sort? pickings are slim for menswear at the best of times
https://pastebin.com/Pz0D89N8
good idea to keep a supply of shite fabric on hand for test running new patterns

[Anonymous No.2617027]

>>2616749
>any particular sort?
right now I'm thinking about trunks/briefs male underwear, slim fit shirts and maybe regular pants
thanks for the links
>>2616569
with some experience maybe, but I never sew anything other than some holes
I was think about cloning my clothes first and learn from that if I can't find anything

[Anonymous No.2617028]

>>2598983
My nigga

[Anonymous No.2617123]

>>2617027
"Patterns from Finished Clothes" by Tracy Doyle is a great resource for this. You can pick it up used for less than $5 online. There's also "Making Pattern From Finished Clothes" by Rusty Bensussen.

[Anonymous No.2617713]

>>2600858
>Singer 4423
I was looking to get this one but almost everybody complains about the pedal and the machine going too fast. Looking at alternatives, I'm between
>Juki HZL-29Z
>Necchi Q421A
>Janome 3612 (no idea what's the international model of this one, it looks to only be sold over here)
They're all on the same price range as the Singer. If anyone has tried any of them, please give me your impressions.

[Anonymous No.2617786]

>>2617713
I haven't used any of those, but the Jukis are generally very well regarded, more so than Janome from what I've read. No idea about the modern Necchis, but odds are it's like all the rest, just rebadged Juki or Janome or something.

Like I said though,m I've not actually used any, was just doing research a while back considering a new machine but then decided fuck it I'll stick with the vintage ones I have. If I feel the need for something modern I'm just going to go with an industrial with a servo motor.

[Anonymous No.2617813]

>>2617786
>I'm just going to go with an industrial with a servo motor
That's way too expensive for me, I've never used a machine before so I'm looking for my first one.
It looks like making your own clothes is pretty expensive and it's not worth it unless you really need something unique not available out there.

[Anonymous No.2617860]

>>2598950
I have a Singer 401a that folds into a table. It's pretty cool. I don't sew though. Maybe I should give it a shot.

[Anonymous No.2618329]

>>2617786
>but the Jukis are generally very well regarded
I really like that Juki, but according to this guy
https://youtu.be/F2m9NkSHPH0
https://youtu.be/KqiPYIttO7E
https://youtu.be/67UXrvJTM8M
it has an underpowered motor that would probably burn over time and it has more plastic pieces inside than say the Singer 4423 which he also reviewed. I really wish there were more in-depth reviews of sewing machines out there...

[Anonymous No.2618820]

these were the first big sewing project i did. sketched out the pattern and went to town

[Anonymous No.2618838]

>>2618820
Nice! I also make plushes, on top of clothing.

[Anonymous No.2619032]

>>2617813
Yeah I wouldn't get one as a first machine, but looking at mid range machines that are like $1200+ with a billion stitches I'll never, ever use... Then a $700-$800 industrial makes a lot of sense. Maybe one of those semi-industrial portables that do straight and zigzag, or just get two single purpose machines... Granted they're also quite large.

Anyway, for a first machine I'd honestly just go grab a heavy, all metal old machine from a thrift store or off the curb or whatever. Or check craigslist or facebook. I personally wouldn't spend over $50, unless it's all cleaned and guaranteed to function properly. Plenty out there under $20 or even free, and most run just fine after a bit of cleaning old varnished oil and grease, and removed crusted up lint and thread bits.
Pre 1960 Singers are mostly all metal, don't know for sure about other brands, but various rebadged Japanese imports like Kenmore and Montgomery Ward (and many, many others) were still pretty much all metal and solid and reliable as fuck up through the 80s.

Also, making your own clothes can be worth it, depending on what you make and how easy it is for you to find properly fitting clothing in store and readily available. Of course you'll never compete with cheap shit like t-shirts and such, the cloth costs more than I can buy the finished product for lol. But for a lot of other articles of clothing you absolutely can make things cheaper for a given quality of cloth, and that have the added benefit of (ideally) fitting perfectly and being exactly what you want rather than simply good enough from what was available.

[Anonymous No.2619033]

>>2618329
It's weird how stuff like this varies. I just recently got a Juki serger but then I saw a review on youtube where some cheap Singer serger and the ubiquitous brother 1034dx both sewed through thicker than the Juki mo-6** series.
Don't regret my purchase though, even with it being nearly double the price of the Brother, because of all the bad reviews I've seen for the 1034, being unreliable, feeling flimsy and palsticky, not lasting more than a year or two. Seems like most of the really good reviews are much older, and I'm sure Brother, like every corporation, has cut costs over time so the current machine is not really the same despite being ostensibly the same model.

[Anonymous No.2619034]

>>2618820
Nice job, those came out cute.
>>2618838
Yours too.

[Anonymous No.2619165]

>>2618838
That looks awesome! Good job :)

[Anonymous No.2620284]

>>2619032
>for a first machine I'd honestly just go grab a heavy, all metal old machine from a thrift store or off the curb or whatever
Well, I just got an old machine from a friend, but it doesn't even spin, so there's some work to do here. It doesn't have a needle either and there're some parts that look broken, but oh well, we'll see if I can fix it.

[Anonymous No.2620290]

>>2620284
Nice find.

That's a standard Singer Model 15 clone. There's probably hundreds of different brands of them from dozens of different countries, and for good reason... it's a solid, simple design that works well, and it's easy for brown people to fix with basic tools.

That one probably mostly just needs a good cleaning and oiling to get it somewhat functional, and any broken parts shouldn't be too hard to track down replacements, since they're pretty interchangeable between most of the brands. The Singer manuals and parts diagrams are floating around online, and should give you pretty much everything you need to know about fixing it and setting it up to use.

[Anonymous No.2620339]

>>2620290
>Singer Model 15
Sweet. Thanks a lot Anon.

[Anonymous No.2620685]

>>2603616
Are you the dude who was trying to make the fucking sarah doll and then stopped updating us like 8 months ago and we all thought you killed yourself after getting rejected by that coworker at the fucking dollat tree? Holy shit

>>2603951
Yeah I actually just asked them my question, it seems all those dudes do is just buy disney princess dolls and screw em though. My ass actually came to ask the doll question so I'll just copy/paste it from that thread into here

>Listen i'm not from here but I'm doing some really, really weird shit and I need to know how to make (and specifically only hand sew) something that an evil (as in unsaved and loitering) spirit would want to inhabit. Something that comes as close to an actual body of a (literal bitch) caprine/human hybrid. Keep in mind I can't use hard material for anything other than eyes (glass eyes are preferred) and I'm not willing to spend insane amounts of time hand embroidering anything either.

>Even if I can't hit the realism I just want it to be inhabitable, life-sized, and preferably have female genitalia, and a functional (non fucking uncanny valley shit and I'll probably wire it shut anyways) mouth, but I just can't find sewing patterns or suitable for this type of shit online.

>picrel is the closest that i could find anywhere but it's fucking hideous and doesn't fit my criteria. If you hated God and wanted to spite his creation, would you want to physically manifest in that? and no I'm not unleashing this cunt so don't even bother asking if I'm doing this shit just to be evil.

>So if yall could help me figure out how to make this type of shit that would be wonderful. thank you in advance. If I survive the luring process maybe I'll keep you updated or some shit. :\

>>2603957
post the screencap

>>2604262
look up sarah in the archives you'll find it and surgically remove your sides but yes you will and you will die a legend.

>>2605260
>fursuit
>parents
you must be 18 to post here
also yes hand sew

[Anonymous No.2620713]

>>2620685
>sarah doll
Archive link?

[Anonymous No.2620723]

>>2620713
https://archived.moe/diy/thread/2275607/
https://archived.moe/diy/thread/2304724/

[Anonymous No.2620882]

>>2619032
Id recommend sailrite machines because they do the straight line and z stitching but nowadays they go over $1000 for the cheapest ones and over $1500 for a mid tier one. I own a cowboy outlaw which is an extremely heavy duty manual machine and works good for my purpose which is heavy duty leather repair and the occasional prototype/one off item made of cloth, canvas, or leather. It is significantly faster than hand sewing.

[Anonymous No.2620910]

>>2598950
Yup I have recently managed to get it working but genuinely I think the stitch it uses is too shit to use for serious stuff

[Anonymous No.2621331]

>>2620882
Sailrite is such an instagram meme machine brand... Nearly literally ANY machine will do a straight line and z stitching.

[Anonymous No.2621400]

>>2621331
Yeah but I suggested it because they have a servo motor, good build quality, and excellent service. Do you have a better suggestion, or did you just want to try and meme on me?

[Anonymous No.2621492]

>>2620882
The Sailrites just seem really overpriced. I've seen similar stuff from other brands like Tuffsew for as little as $499. Maybe not the same quality standards, but for my use I doubt it makes a difference. Plus I don't know if the Sailrites are even particular high quality or if it's simply name recognition.

[Anonymous No.2621493]

>>2621492
Plus I'm thinking now my next machine will probably be a cover stitch, unless I could swing a flat seamer.

[Anonymous No.2621597]

Nooo frens, the machine stopped working. I was experimenting with different threads and needles, but at some point it stopped sewing, it still puts the needle thread through just fine but then goes it back up without picking up the bobbin thread.

I put the original needle, thread, bobbin etc back and the tensions as they were, but it still won’t work.

It picks up the bobbin thread fine through the hole when there’s no fabric, but doesn’t take the needle thread around the bobbin case thing when there is fabric. Any ideas or Google terms welcome

[Anonymous No.2621636]

>>2621492
It's 100% brand-related. People who use Sailrite machines immediately go into the "little bitch" category.
You should definitely get a cover stitch/overlock machine. I held off too long to get one when I first began to sew --not really sure why I didn't get one sooner. It seems intimidating at first, but once you get it down, it's a piece of cake. And it makes your sewing look very professional too.

[Anonymous No.2621762]

>>2621597
make sure the needle is inserted the right way round and all the way in. check it's not bent or dull. remove the bobbin case and, while turning the handwheel, look for errant bits of thread wedged in behind the shuttle hook or poking out from the feed doggos. check that the bobbin case is threaded correctly before you put it back, and that it's seated correctly after. then re-thread the machine and try again. assuming you're using the same fabric, it sounds like a needle thing. if different fabric, try adjusting the pressure on the presser foot bar.

[Anonymous No.2621825]

>>2621636
Coverstitch and overlock are two different functions, usually done on two different machines. There are combo coverstitch/overlockers, but they have reduced functionality for both operations. If you sew a LOT of knits, or make lingerie, the coverstitch is better for finishing than a serger. Serger is better for joining, ruffles, stretch seams, flstlock seams, and fine edges.

[Anonymous No.2621842]

>>2621597
Did you put the spool thread through the foot and lay it towards the back while you sew?

[Anonymous No.2621888]

>>2619032
if you already have an old sewing machine with straight line only, is a serger "all you need" to make your own clothes?

[Anonymous No.2621922]

>>2621842
Yea I did

>>2621762
Thanks a lot. Apparently round side of the needle goes out, but the pdf manual I found says flat face goes to the left. If I put it as per pic related it won’t work, but the other way round it does.

[Anonymous No.2621947]

>>2598950
Sewing is the virgin younger brother to leather work.

[Anonymous No.2621966]

>>2621825
I have a 5-thread machine that does many different coverstitches and many different overlock stitches. All on the same machine! You don't have to buy a separate machine for each. This machine wasn't even that expensive--like $500 maybe. Both coverstitch and overlock are useful --so my advice is to get a machine that can do both.

[Anonymous No.2622012]

>>2621966
If you're a casual sewer with limited space, a combination machine could be useful, I suppose. For someone who sews often or professionally, it's like having to stop and reset everything on your sewing machine for topstitching in the middle of a job. Easier and more convenient to have a dedicated machine for the job.

[Anonymous No.2622035]

>>2621636
>And it makes your sewing look very professional too.
For an overlocker that is debatable, unless you are doing sports clothing. All muh fast fashion is overlocked by asians for 50ct an hour so it really shouldn't be the standard.

[Anonymous No.2622386]

Was given some sewing patterns which my grandmother owned and really want to start making some, any channels or sites recommended to learn the basics of what i need to know? Have no knowledge beyond a high school class many years ago.

[Anonymous No.2622413]

>>2621947
Looks sewn to me bruh.

[Anonymous No.2622414]

>>2621966
Don't you need to potentially change out needle plates and make other adjustments and possibly rethread to change functions though?
For that alone I'd get separate machines. Also I already bought a 4 thread overlock, so a cover stitch would be complimentary. Almost nabbed a nice old 5 thread overlock on facebook but got beat to it by a few minutes, would have been nice for a safety stitch and chain stitch machine but oh well.

[Anonymous No.2622811]

Looking for a manual for a Montgomery Ward UHT J 1934 - can't find shit. I'd pay for a PDF if I could find one.

[Anonymous No.2622885]

>>2622811
Nice machine, there's one similar to that near me for $20 could probably get it for less... But I don't need yet another machine lol.

Anyway, what do you need a manual for? Operation is pretty straight forward. Anyway here's one for the uht j1933 which looks just about the same: https://www.scribd.com/document/554811650/Wards-UHT-1903-1933-1943-Manual

[Anonymous No.2622893]

Can I turn 34 inch waist pants into 32 by razoring all the seams and stitching them back together?
Is there an ART OF SEWING book?

[Anonymous No.2622911]

Does anyone have a good pattern for a boxy hoodie? I found a pretty decent free one online but the guy has it in full-form and I either need to find someone who can print 36" x 73", learn how to divide it up in photoshop into A4 size for home-printing or buy a printed version off of him

[Anonymous No.2622938]

>>2622893
Yes you can. 2" reduction is about the most you can do at the centerback seam. Any more than that, you'll need to either do darts above the pockets, or take in at the side seams. This video is basically how I do it: https://youtu.be/XUumbQG4Bz8
Pinch the back waistband together and mark a 1" reduction on each side of the center back seam. Mark the same 1" marks on the waistband and mark the center of the waistband. You'll need to shorten the waistband, so it will have a seam, but the belt loop will cover it. Pinch down the back seam until the back lays smooth and mark across the seam where that point is. That,s the bottom of the big dart you'll sew.
Remove the center back belt loop and set aside. Undo the stitching where the waistband is sewn to the back yoke. Open up at least 1" on either side of your reduction mark. Cut the waistband at the center mark.
From the bottom of the dart mark on the back seam, mark a smooth line up to the waistband. That's the stitching line. Open up the centerback seam on the jeans to an inch below the bottom of the dart mark and press open.
Sew the new seam. Sew the new waistband seam. Press open and trim the waistband. Trim the centerback seam. Press the new flatfelled seam, pin and stitch. Topstitch with matching gold thread.
Reset the waistband, sew and topstitch.
Biggest thing is to match the color, style and spacing of the topstitch gold thread, and make sure the yoke seams line up correctly.

[Anonymous No.2623336]

>>2622885

thanks, I'm just a nerd and like having the manual for things

[Anonymous No.2623403]

>>2622911
Most office stores can print large stuff for you, and fedex stores, probably ups stores too.

[Anonymous No.2623420]

>>2622911
>how to divide it up for home-printing
gif related if you wanna get started right this second; otherwise the full-form is better than A4 in every conceivable way.
>someone who can print 36" x 73"
go to a reprographics shop that caters to architects. far and away the least expensive option. avoid places that also do yuge advertising banners and photos and stacks of flyers and such. easily $28.00 from big name chain stores versus maybe $0.82 from three dudes who pump out blueprints and technical drawings all day. alternatively, university engineering departments are a good place to find a large format printer.

[Anonymous No.2623442]

>>2623403
>>2623420
Thanks for the answers, I'll try looking around locally for something like this

[Anonymous No.2623509]

>>2622911
> divide it up in photoshop into A4 size for home-printing or buy a printed version off of him
If you have a pdf and press ctrl+p and select a4 paper size with no scaling won’t your computer just divide it automatically? Works pretty well on Windows, the margins are pretty useful for taping it together

[Anonymous No.2623590]

Beginner here, decided I’m making a new bag for my tent. Cylindrical like a duffel but it opens on the end with a drawstring (not sure how they’re called in English).

Anyway what would be a suitable material for this? I never really made outdoor stuff before. I see many people use cordura 600d for camping stuff, is it easy to sew? Or just thick canvas and put beeswax on it. I made some stuff with pvc fabric before, it’s nice but can’t really get it to work with the sewing machine

[Anonymous No.2623628]

>>2623590

Ripstop Nylon.

It's a common material and its what the Army uses for many applications

[Anonymous No.2623630]

>>2623628
>>2623590

forgot pic

[Anonymous No.2623646]

where to sew a patch on these pants?

i noticed everytime i sew denim, the next tear is above/below/around the patch.
where should i place the patch so it doesnt happen? should i sew it along pic rel?

[Anonymous No.2623944]

>>2623628
>>2623630
Thanks I thought it was the same as cordura but it seems not always. I’ll try and look up if it’s safe around exhausts

[Anonymous No.2624105]

Best stuffing/material for seat padding? I want to fix up an office chair. Local fabric chain has some pricey foam squares.

[Anonymous No.2624111]

>>2624105
See if there's an upholstery supply store in your city. Some upholstery places will also sell supplies to diyers.

[Anonymous No.2624127]

Are these new Singer Heavy Duty machines any good?
https://singeroutlet.co.uk/collections/heavy-duty

[Anonymous No.2624176]

>>2624127
Yeah pretty good. Sewing repair man on YT took it apart and tested it, gave it a good review! Don't let your sewing dreams stay dreams anon. Go for it.

[Anonymous No.2624338]

>>2624127
The only complain I hear about them is the pedal. You simply can't go slow with the original one, but it's apparently possible to disassembly it and tweak it a little to make it less sensible.

[Anonymous No.2624609]

>>2624105
Best? Extra firm latex and wool batting. That shit ain't cheap though.

[Anonymous No.2626103]

>>2622386
There's always a tonne of sewing books are libraries or charity shops. With how to videos, you have to be careful they aren't teaching you bad habits. Find a reputable you tuber, and skip the amateur "teachers".

[Anonymous No.2626235]

Are there any handheld unit that I can use for 500d/1000d nylon? I want to stitch some hook and loop panels to things, but I don't want to invest in a tabletop machine.

[Anonymous No.2626422]

>>2626235
I think either hand sewing or getting and old machine are preferable.
Fixing up and old machine is pretty fulfilling in and of itself.

[Anonymous No.2627131]

>>2626235
speedy stitcher awl

[Anonymous No.2627142]

There was a thinning of fabric from a cut on my pants, I stitched it together but when I put them on and bent over it immediately popped the top of the stitch and broke the string. What should I do differently?

[Anonymous No.2627244]

>>2627142
try patching it instead. watch the vid linked here >>2605216

>>2623646
i don't like spanning across the center back seam like that (ditto for crotch intersection) so i'd modify it somewhat.
>the next tear is above/below/around the patch.
yep
>where should i place the patch so it doesnt happen?
you want to cover the entire threadbare area and then some. eventually, inevitably, the question becomes "how much do i like these pants?" at which point the answer is either to patch the new tear or to accept that the garment is dead and chuck it in the rag bin.

[Anonymous No.2627266]

i have zero knowledge about sewing and i want to make a flag for my friend. i hav eaccess to a machine
how can i get started??

[Anonymous No.2627277]

>>2627266
Solid color? Or stripes?

[Anonymous No.2627279]

>>2627266
>acquire fabric
>sew it until flag
>trollface.jpg
kek gibs us more detail lad. what's the design of the flag look like? post an example pic of it or make a quick sketch or something. second question, what's the end use case? does it need to survive being run up a flagpole and flapping in the wind? hanging on a wall indoors? mounted outside by the front door? or am i taking "flag" too literally and it's meant to be a smaller item more akin to a handkerchief?

[Anonymous No.2627309]

>>2627277
5 stripes
4 stars
>>2627279
Here's the design. i want to make it so he can hang it in his room

[Anonymous No.2627315]

>>2627309
Cut the stars out of fabric, no seam allowance. Cut out the stripes, with a half inch seam allowance. Applique the stars to the white stripe using a narrow zigzag stitch. You can glue them down with a glue stich first or apply them with some heat n bond. Embroider the letters. Sew the stripes together using a flatfelled seam. Hem the edges. You can put some small grommets in the top corners for hanging on the walln or add a canvas strip with grommets on the side.

[Anonymous No.2628587]

I have some Berber kicking around and I want to make a baby burp cloth, would this fabric be absorbent enough for the job?

[Anonymous No.2628588]

>>2628587
By berber do you mean picrel? Sherpa "fleece"? If it's acrylic or polyester, which most are, I wouldn't bother if you want to catch spit up. It'll just ride on the surface and not soak in. Also, when you wash and dry polyester sherpa, the fibers can melt/compact into hard lumps. A double layer of cotton flannel, or just a cloth diaper will work better and be easier to launder. And I say this as a mom of three.

[Anonymous No.2628615]

> first time sewing something bigger than 10 inches across
> have to fold everything over multiple times to turn it around
> finally understand why modern machines have a reverse function
Should have bought a 15k-88 but oh well

[Anonymous No.2628908]

>>2628615
aren't there other ways to finish stitching?

[Anonymous No.2629068]

>>2628908
I really hate the knot tying thing. I saw a guy on YouTube that lifts the presser foot and moves the fabric back a few stitches, but that makes it look off. If you know other ways I’m all ears

Anyway I made myself a tent sack. First bigger project and it turned out pretty well.

[Anonymous No.2629070]

>>2629068
Biggest struggle was this. At random times especially when going through many layers somehow the thread gets frayed. Any ideas? Using a 110/18 jeans needle with size 40 dynforce thread. I’m 90% sure it’s not the tension because the stitches look very good when it doesn’t happen

[Anonymous No.2629086]

>>2629070
Try switching to a topstitching needle. It has a larger eye and longer shaft groove to protect the thread from fraying.

[Anonymous No.2630258]

>>2628588
That's probably what I meant thanks.any recommendations for beginner sewing and new mom projects?

[Anonymous No.2630286]

>>2630258
2 layer flannel baby blankets. Good for bedtime blanket, tummy time, swaddling, drape for breastfeeding, cover for a carseat, changing pad, shade for a stroller. I make them 40"x40" with rounded corners. Bibs with velcro on the neckstrap, elastic waist skirts or shorts, pillowcases, crib sheets or pack-n-play mat covers are all easy.

[Anonymous No.2631074]

>>2630258
Plushies, or maybe shaped pillows?

Also what >>2630286 wrote. Good thing is baby probably won’t notice an ugly stitch so lots of room to practice.

[Anonymous No.2631291]

>>2604235
In my experience, yes. Needles, bobbin cases, and small notions are the same regardless of branding. I heard that you should stick with either plastic or metal bobbins depending on what your machine came with though.

I can't speak on your machine problem though.

[Anonymous No.2631297]

>>2605245
You have to handsew regardless of whether you primarily use a machine or not. It's just part of making things. Can you sew an entire project with just handsewing? Yes. Some people do it by choice. Is it also more time consuming and physically taxing? Also yes.

[Anonymous No.2631299]

>>2605512
>Hopefully my carpal tunnel and arthritis ridden wrists hold up though.
Get some compression gloves. Like the kind of old people. They won't erase or fully prevent the pain, but it'll lessen how much you deal with. Also stretch your hands, take breaks, and ice/heat as needed.

[Anonymous No.2631307]

>>2609278
I have a Singer 6160/6180 and I think it's been a fantastic first machine. I don't think it's too important which brand/model you get for a first timer so long as it has the necessary components. Things that are on my machine that I suggest: a light above the workspace, bobbin winder, automatic needle threader, a cutter on the side of the machine.

[Anonymous No.2631713]

stumbled across this just now and it's quite good
https://www.booksfree.org/sewing-for-fashion-designers-by-anette-fischer-pdf-free-download-a/

[Anonymous No.2632029]

How to get into cross stitching? Should I buy some kit to practice with before I think about making my own pattern? I want to make a gift item.

[Anonymous No.2632041]

>>2632029
Cross stitch is easy. You need embroidery floss, embroidery needles, scissor, a hoop, fabric (aida cloth is typical), and a stitch/color guide pattern, usually called a chart. Practice first toget a feel for the stitch, and tension. Lots of beginner guides online. https://stitchedmodern.com/blogs/news/a-beginners-guide-to-cross-stitch

[Anonymous No.2632437]

>>2624127
>https://singeroutlet.co.uk/collections/heavy-duty
get a brother, or better yet, a juki. singers do not have the reputation they used to anymore and these will not sew heavy duty.

[Anonymous No.2632446]

>>2598950
I want to know how to sow.
Are these things a good place to start?

[Anonymous No.2632510]

>>2632446
not at all, you're better off with a hand sewing needle

[Anonymous No.2634040]

This is a comfy thread frens.

[Anonymous No.2634317]

>>2632437
Yes I did some research and found that these machines are trash. I also saw that new chinkshit industrials aren't too expensive. I'll look into Juki, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2634700]

>>2632437
>or better yet, a juki
does this apply to sergers too?

[Anonymous No.2634902]

Question here, pic related is from my machines manual. Especially with thick materials I always get a result like in figure 17. It’s not as bad as in the picture but the two sides are visibly different. This happens even with the needle thread tension almost at maximum (to the point where the needle has a hard time pulling the thread through) and the bobbin thread tension at minimum (the point where it bulks up underneath). Am I missing something here

[Anonymous No.2635537]

>>2634902
Did some more experimenting and apparently it’s mostly the fabric. With anything light (cotton, fleece) I can adjust it correct easily, with thicker coated cotton it’s more difficult but eventually I get it right. But with PU coated ripstop (500d) it still seems impossible and I always get fig 17. Are you supposed to sew from the coated or uncoated side? Tried the microtex, leather, jeans and universal needle all in 100/16 for size 40 thread (as recommended by the shop I got it).

[Anonymous No.2635571]

>>2635537
It might just be too heavy for your machine. I finally hit my limit sewing cordura and bought a walking foot. You should be able to sew from either side, I was able to do it with 2-4 layers, but once it starts to get into a bunch of folded layers it didn't have the power to punch through it. My tension on the smaller machine was almost all the way to max.

[Anonymous No.2635996]

>>2635571
Thanks but I doubt it really. The needle/thread goes in and out just fine or do you mean that the machine can’t make enough thread tension? Pretty new, and really can’t find what a normal amount of tension is either but I think it’s about 2 pounds on maximum setting

[Anonymous No.2636021]

>>2634902
>>2635537
try a larger needle

[Anonymous No.2637353]

>>2634700
people always talk about their babylock sergers, but personally I don't do enough garment sewing to really know. desu I'd check pattern review. I have a brother serger and it works fine on the rare occasions I need it

[Anonymous No.2637699]

>>2634700
I had a 3-4 Babylock, that I got about 3 years out of, then a Pfaff, that was great for about 20 years, and my new serger is a Babylock Vibrant. It's okay, goes through 4 layers of denim well, handles lettuced edges on chiffon, and hasn't given me any problems so far. I much prefer the Pfaff, to be honest, though, but that might just be familiarity talking.

[Anonymous No.2637740]

>>2634700
IIRC yes. The Juki sergers are generally well rated, whereas the ubiquitous cheap Brother has tons of complaints (at least recently, the older reviews were pretty solid, but they've clearly cut costs). I don't think I've ever heard anything about new Singer sergers, though the older ones from the 80s and maybe even 90s were made in Japan and solid work horses so I've read.

[Anonymous No.2637828]

>>2601120
Looks like a polish łucznik (archer) 400 series sewing machine with a different badge

[Anonymous No.2637986]

I want to make a fitted sheet for a V berth. Where do I buy fabric this wide?

[Anonymous No.2637987]

My sewing machine kept shredding synthetic threads right at the the eye of the needle. When I swap to cotton thread it sews fine. Also, when I'm sewing leather and thick canvas do I need to use a higher tension on the thread? Anything else I should keep in mind when sewing heavy material? What about fur?

[Anonymous No.2638249]

I’ve never made my own pattern. Any basic tips on how I would design (or find) a pattern for a rain hat like pic related?

>>2637987
Other thread gave me the advice to use a top stitch needle against shedding threads. I bought one that’s 2 sizes bigger than normal and it’s been fine for me since

> I'm sewing leather and thick canvas do I need to use a higher tension on the thread? Anything else I should keep in mind when sewing heavy material?
I’ve only used thick canvas, in my experience a bit more tension helps but bigger (and sharper) needle helps more if you don’t mind the bigger holes.

[Anonymous No.2638343]

>>2638249
Look for this one. Joann fabrics used to carry this brand. Not sure if they still do.

[Anonymous No.2638351]

>>2638343
Thanks. Where I live it’s called south wester but apparently in the us it’s norwester. They don’t sell digital patterns do they? For $7 I’d get one but they don’t shop outside the us and neither does Joann fabrics

[Anonymous No.2638353]

>>2638351
https://www.etsy.com/listing/760303918/green-pepper-norwester-hat-headgear-528?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_ps-c-craft_supplies_and_tools-patterns_and_how_to-other&utm_custom1=_k_Cj0KCQjwy9-kBhCHARIsAHpBjHj__Nh9xJbxg4aS_-p7XSV44nDI6pag1Qc_aAxbPCRjunE7DH_sJX0aAkgREALw_wcB_k_&utm_content=go_12565614461_119909315016_507187591098_pla-297065912291_m__760303918_211224892&utm_custom2=12565614461&gclid=Cj0KCQjwy9-kBhCHARIsAHpBjHj__Nh9xJbxg4aS_-p7XSV44nDI6pag1Qc_aAxbPCRjunE7DH_sJX0aAkgREALw_wcB

[Anonymous No.2638632]

>>2598950
i have Łucznuk 466 sewing machine and i broke the needle while testing it
will any needle do or do i need to find special one ?
needle shattered and i pulled it out of my feel few weeks later

[Anonymous No.2638671]

>>2638632
Usually a needle labeled "universal" will work BUT look only for the manual for your machine (I found a bunch in pdf format) and see what it lists as replacements.

[Anonymous No.2638690]

>>2638671
ye i have original manual and it doesn't say anything
i checked another manual in web and it has the needle so thanks
and i have Łucznik 431

[Anonymous No.2638843]

>>2638353
Thanks I ended up getting one similar to this. Will report back in a few weeks when it’s done (hopefully)

[Anonymous No.2639024]

>>2638632
Generic needles (flat on one side round on other) work with my łucznik 436.
I bought pic related, described as "half-flat" and "universal"

[Anonymous No.2639171]

>>2639024
thanks, this is also the number i found in online manual

[Anonymous No.2639359]

>>2637986
For fancy fabric, I don't know. But if you're fine with plain cotton muslin you can usually find it in wide widths like 120" or so.

[Anonymous No.2639725]

Someone had thrown this old thing away and I picked it up on a whim not thinking too much about it but after setting it up I realized that it's a pretty neat machine. It says Nora on it but I haven't been able to find an exact match for it online. Sadly someone had cut the wires and I had to wire a switch straight into the motor because I'm a bit of a dumdum when it comes to electronics.
Also sewing is not really not my thing to be honest but I do work with sewing machines as a part of my job.
Just wanted to blogpost somewhere about this sorry.

[Anonymous No.2640207]

Do you guys get like 1 bobbin for every type of thread you have or what?
Also what’s a good, strong but not too thick general purpose thread? I make outdoor bags, hats, rain covers, luggage. I’ve been using dynforce 40 but it’s a pain getting such a thick thread through dense fabric and the 110 needle leaves too big holes for my liking

[Anonymous No.2640379]

how do you call this thing in the pic?
I need a new one and can't find shit

[Anonymous No.2640394]

>>2640379
It's the tension disc for the bobbin winder

[Anonymous No.2640397]

>>2640379
https://www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-bobbin-winders-parts/products/bobbin-winder-thread-guide-singer-part-125396

I dunno if that's the exact part for your machine but there you go.

[Anonymous No.2640398]

>>2640207
Bobbins are dirt cheap and usually come in packs of like 10 or 20 so basically yeah.
Don't know about your thread question though, I've always just used general purpose thread but I've never sewn anything heavy duty.

[Anonymous No.2640399]

>>2639725
Damn nice find for free.

[Anonymous No.2640406]

>>2640399
I think so too. If anyone has any idea on how the original pedal might have been wired, any help would be appreciated. Right now I just got the motor hooked up into mains with some wagos but that's hardly ideal.

[Anonymous No.2640448]

>>2640394
>>2640397
thank you based Anons

[Anonymous No.2640508]

>>2638353
>>2638843
Found some time today. Obviously I made a lot of beginner mistakes and you can see the assymetry but at least it’s functional. thanks again

>>2640398
The cheapest one I can find that fit my bobbin winder are €3 a piece, but guess I’ll pick up some extra

>>2640379
Nice machine, paint looks way better than on mine

[George No.2640525]

Good thread.

[Anonymous No.2640558]

>>2640508
Noice! For a first efgort it looks preddy gud

[Anonymous No.2640620]

>>2598950

is glue going to replace sewing?

[Anonymous No.2640626]

>>2640620
as soon as jbweld going to replace welding?

[Anonymous No.2640682]

>>2598950
i fell for the vintage sewing machine meme, imagine not being able to stitch 4 layers of nylon webbing.

[Anonymous No.2640762]

>>2640682
muh 1900s singer does 2 layers of Kevlar webbing plus 3 layers of tent canvas so I don’t really get your point here

[Anonymous No.2640788]

>>2640682

try using the right needle you ogre

[Anonymous No.2640791]

>>2640406
try looking some retrofit videos like this?
https://youtu.be/fk8iSs_9uZo
pedals are usually easy to retrofit, we did one like a decade ago and we just put it in series or something, we just followed what the shop told us

[Anonymous No.2640900]

>>2640788
like?

[Anonymous No.2640910]

>>2639725
>>2640406
wew you've found a treasure there

motor: service manual for necchi bu mira & nova. scroll to the end. might not be exact but oughta be pretty close.
https://files.catbox.moe/qcn524.pdf

pedal: picrelated, plus a couple videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4cHkX8X5ho
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGf2DFQdcBQ
hope some of this helps!

[Anonymous No.2640939]

>>2640791
>>2640910
Thanks anons, especially for the manual. I'll try to wrap my brain around this tomorrow.
It would be fun to keep this as original as I can but I just realized that it would probably make more sense to just buy a pedal+motor set from somewhere like aliexpress since I'm going to have to get a new pedal anyway.

[Anonymous No.2640969]

This was a very nice thread, sewbros. Very helpful. Thank you.

[Anonymous No.2641025]

>>2640939
no dude, don't use a chink motor, just put it a compatible pedal.
Unless you pay good for it most probably the old motor will be better. just look at the end of that manual it says how to rewire it

[Anonymous No.2641328]

>>2640969
time to jump to the other thread >>2621160
>>2621160
>>2621160