/3dpg/ 3D Printing General

[Anonymous No.2590451]

Fresh Knedliky Edition
Last Thread: >>2585417


All the outdated info you need about /3Dpg/-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>Calibrate your printer.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 3/22/23]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper
Under 1000 USD: Bambu Labs P1P
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own Voron, Rat Rig, Bambu Lab X1 Carbon
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars 2+, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://printables.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://cults3d.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional parametric CAD programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, TinkerCAD, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do mesh free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.

[Anonymous No.2590454]

>>2590448
>>>2590179
>>STM32*** 32-bit board
>>this is already common in much cheaper printers.
>
>LOL this is the same shit apple does, implement hardware that has already been in phones for years, and sell it expensive as fuck, acting like they are the first to do it.
>
>Jesus christ this is sad.

>>2589807
>Beardy man continues to troll his cult of retards, now selling the Prusa Ankermake M5 Mk4 for only $800-$1100.


>>2589953
>wake me up when you can daisy chain 12 colors

>>2590036
>It's still a bedslinger
>Linear advance? Been using it for years, it's a Marlin feature that Prusa could've been using for years now but hasn't.
>Input shaping? Finally gets added to Marlin, suddenly Prusa announces it as a "feature."
>250x210x220 vs 256x256x256 - P1P
>Optional ESP Wi-Fi vs Wi-Fi and Bluetooth as standard - P1P
>Haribo salesman continues to fail to impress

>>2590284
>It better damn well be plug and play, because otherwise Broseph has some justifying to do when it comes to price.

Sounds like we're off to a good start here.

[Anonymous No.2590465]

>>2590307
>Can you cut models in Cura? Print only a portion of it for test purposes?
Yes, you can do this with mesh modifiers in Cura, but it's shitty and inconvenient.
It's extremely easy in PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, and Bambu Studio, any of which I highly recommend over Cura.

In Cura, you need to first add another mesh to use as your cutting tool, and position it so it overlaps the part of your model you wish to exclude.
With your "cutting tool" selected, you click "Per Model Settings," then "Modify settings for overlaps."
From the drop-down, select "Cutting mesh," then click the "Select settings" button.
From the pop-up, select Wall Thickness, Wall Line Count, Top/Bottom Thickness, Top Layers, Initial Bottom Layers, and Infill Density, then close the pop-up.
The settings are now displayed in the Per Model Settings window, set ALL of them to 0.
picrel

[Anonymous No.2590472]

>>2590465
Fuck it, I made a video.

[Anonymous No.2590474]

>>2590472
SuperSlicer, for comparison.

[Anonymous No.2590539]

>>2590451
wait where's last thread's garfileld?

>>2590472
>>2590474
can't you just drag it partially across the edge of the build-plate if you just want to cut a straight line to cut off one side?

[Anonymous No.2590553]

trying to print an AR-15 lower and keep getting weird layer shifts -- this has happened to my AnyCubic Kobra Go once every few days lol and i'm getting tired

[Anonymous No.2590555]

I have read that I can make cloth-like prints with slicing options by making the extruder purposely string the plastic.

How do I do it?

[Anonymous No.2590563]

>>2590465
Huh, i saw that cutting mesh but it didn't look like that when i try, thanks anon will try again today

[Anonymous No.2590564]

>>2590563
>>2590465
But yea, that is inconvenient indeed. I should try Prusa for this perhaps, but it also has some inconvenient flows

[Anonymous No.2590574]

>>2590465
I'm gonna be completly honest with you

I have never used that feature nor expect to use it in the future.

But thx anyway

[Anonymous No.2590578]

>>2590451
https://youtu.be/1sFyrfqTdcg

[Anonymous No.2590593]

What went wrong? It's an Anycubic Kobra Neo.

[Anonymous No.2590601]

>>2590593
You answered yourself lmao.
Jokes aside, try to dry the filament and see if the problem persists.

[Anonymous No.2590629]

>>2590593
the jews. also you're too hot I believe so when the print area is smaller you're not cooling enough and the stringing starts. what filament and temp?

[Anonymous No.2590654]

>1st layer was too far
>relevel and set z offest
>too close
>relevel and set z offset
>too far

[Anonymous No.2590669]

>>2590451
fucking HELP
Nothing's sticking to the print bed, and I mean NOTHING literally
>it's level
>printhead's Z-level is fine
>it's heated at 60 C (using PLA, tried different temps like 50 C up to 70 C, no change)
>clean
>printing very slowly at like 20mms
BUT NOTHING STICKS
NOTHING

[Anonymous No.2590677]

>>2590669
What's the build surface made of?
Has anything ever stuck or is this a new printer?

[Anonymous No.2590703]

>>2590677
>What's the build surface made of?
Soap. pls hlp sirs

[Anonymous No.2590708]

>>2590669
tried turning the fan off for the first layer? that seemed to do it for me

[Anonymous No.2590711]

>>2590669
You can try using the ol' trick of hair spray, but that helps the print stick it doesn't force them to stick.

Have you tried leveling to the point where the plastic gets crushed somewhat? If that doesn't help then the problem is clearly in your print bed.

[Anonymous No.2590714]

>>2590669
you can use glue stick but this is the real patrician choice. Also clean your bed, sand/sharpen the nozzle tip a tiny bit, and keep your room free of dust and moisture.

[Anonymous No.2590716]

>>2590539
>wait where's last thread's garfileld?
It's literally the first image in the collage.

[Anonymous No.2590731]

>>2590714
>sand/sharpen the nozzle tip a tiny bit
What the fuck? No, don't do this.
Your nozzle is a soft piece of a metal that's been made to a degree of precision, don't ever take sandpaper, a file, or steel brush to it.
You wipe it clean with a paper towel or similar, but that's ALL you need to do with the nozzle.

Any bed needs to be clean or there's no chance of good adhesion. Clean with rubbing alcohol or ethanol. Soap and water is fine for some beds, but not for others, and most "dish soap" leaves behind residue that won't help your adhesion. Great for cleaning up a particularly nasty bed, but between prints a quick wipe with an alcohol damped paper towel keeps things perfect.

Hairspray can help adhesion to glass or build-tak.
Glue stick can help ASA and ABS adhere to glass, or help prevent PETG from bonding with a PEI or PEI-coated bed.

You say your "z-level" is fine and you're printing at 20mm/s but nothing sticks.
Have you considered lowering your z height more anyway and printing even slower?
Can you share a photo to show us what you consider "fine"? Because something's not fine if it's not sticking.

[Anonymous No.2590737]

>>2590731
After trying to get shit to stick all morning I'm burnt out and just relaxing now, I'll get back to you anon with pics, thanks for the help.

[Anonymous No.2590743]

>>2590731
>but that's ALL you need to do with the nozzle.
heavy users keep the bottom of their nozzles planed (which is already planed flat when you buy it a little, btw, not a sharp point), and the holes reamed out occasionally with a diametrically matched tool. Otherwise the rough geometry that builds over time will pull on your layers and you will replace nozzles about 4 times as often.

[Anonymous No.2590745]

>>2590731
>Your nozzle is a soft piece of a metal
so contaminants in your filament and dragging on the bed will wear it down from correct geometry. Just like a kitchen knife.

[Anonymous No.2590746]

>>2590743
Considering the price of Chinabro nozzles, can replace daily.

[Anonymous No.2590747]

>>2590743
>>2590745
This is exactly right.
Which is why >>2590714 is so very wrong.

[Anonymous No.2590748]

>>2590747
hey dude, I am the same guy, and I do both. I really do think the bed weld stuff works, and I used to use the purple gluesticks all the time too before discovering its a strict improvement. Because its so nonviscious and the applicator is a smooth rollon like Certain Dri, it goes on very thin and evenly.

[Anonymous No.2590749]

>>2590555
So, no one?

[Anonymous No.2590750]

>>2590746
precision will vary so much, every single one will need individual unique calibration for flow rate and shit. Not remotely worth it IMO, especially if you are changing diameters often.

[Anonymous No.2590765]

>>2590750
Buy a hundred, they will have all fallen from the same CNC lathe, from the same brass coil, in the same batch. Same same same. I've had no problems.

[Anonymous No.2590770]

>>2590765
>Buy a hundred, they will have all fallen from the same CNC lathe, from the same brass coil, in the same batch.
That sounds impressive but I don't know if it would be true. They could come off different batches or production lines and just be tossed in a bag together whenever. Also that's $500, what if they ALL suck?

[Anonymous No.2590773]

>>2590770
>Also that's $500, what if they ALL suck?
What's $500?
Nozzles are < 15c in bulk.
I change nozzles frequently, it's easy, they're cheap, swapping is quick, no tuning required when swapping like-for-like nozzles.

Nozzles are consumables, they wear out, you toss 'em.
If you want a longer lasting nozzle, they make those too, but they're more expensive; if you don't like doing nozzle changes, then it may be worth it for you.

[Anonymous No.2590776]

>>2590773
>Nozzles are < 15c in bulk.
That is admittedly much more impressive. When you said $5 I figured it wouldn't have that big an economy of scale. I might definitely try this, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2590781]

>>2590773
>they make those too, but they're more expensive
ruby, diamond, and carbide nozzles are an absolute meme, the garbage thermal characteristics more than offset their durability.

[Anonymous No.2590782]

I want to clean my hotend, can I just dump the heater block, the heatbreak and the nozzle in acetone?

[Anonymous No.2590784]

>>2590776
I picked up a variety pack of 0.1 -> 1.2mm nozzles a few years ago, 100 nozzles, cost me $15USD, still working through it.
I've had rolls of filament come with bags of 5 - 10 nozzles, always 0.4mm of course.
Actually I had a roll of teflon tube come with a bag of nozzles once.

Now I can't downplay that there is a quality difference between the cheapest garbage and good nozzles, but it's less of an issue now than it was 5+ years ago when the cheap nozzles looked like they'd been whittled by a rice baby with a box cutter.

[Anonymous No.2590785]

>>2590782
Sure. Acetone won't dissolve PLA or PETG though.
In fact it does pretty much nothing to PETG, and only slowly degrades PLA.
Unless you print entirely ABS and/or ASA, that acetone isn't going to help much.

How dirty is it? I wipe mine with a paper towel or rag with a little alcohol on it when the whole thing is at temperature. Works well enough.

If you really need to dissolve everything off of it, then I'd start with the acetone bath, brush/wipe the whole thing down, let it dry out and fume off, then go for an ethyl acetate wash. Real ethyl acetate, not ethyl acetate "substitute" that most hardware stores carry right next to the real shit. It'll do a much better job of clearing up PLA. Won't always necessarily dissolve it, it can dissolve some, but degrades the shit out of it pretty rapidly and makes it easy to clear it all up with a brush.

[Anonymous No.2590789]

>>2590731
>Hairspray can help adhesion to glass or build-tak.
what if I'm trying to print ABS on buildtak (don't have anything better around), asking for a friend who had some not terrible warping

[Anonymous No.2590791]

>>2590789
Just buy the bed weld, jesus. It's cheaper by mass, most of that hairspray is can.

[Anonymous No.2590797]

>>2590789
Buildtak sucks in general, but it especially sucks for ABS.
Clean the shit out of it, as usual, and run that bitch HOT. 90C minimum, 100-110C is usually better.

>>2590791
>$5.75/floz
>Hairspray: 50c/floz
That can could be 90% air and nothingness and it's still a better deal than the bed weld.
Bed weld, and the millions of products like it, can work well for some people, but you can't pretend it's a better price.
It's not even remotely close.

Best thing you can do is use a better bed for whatever you're doing.
Plain glass is great for PLA if you're not a retard.
PEI coated spring-steel is great for most things and is extremely forgiving to work with.
FR4/G-10/Fiberglass sheets can work well, especially purpose made ones.
Buildtak is ancient garbage that needs to die off already.
Straight PEI sheets aren't worth fucking with anymore because PEI coated steel sheets are better in every way.

[Anonymous No.2590798]

>>2590789
Oh I totally forgot one of the old tricks we use for buildtak because it's so bad, steel wool.
Scuffing the shit out of the entire surface with 000 steel wool until it's evenly matte.
Buildtak is smooth, extremely smooth, even the "textured" buildtak sheets are glossy, and roughing the shit out of them can help a lot.

[Anonymous No.2590799]

Guys i need help finding a model. It was posted in this thread a while back, i cannot seem to find it in the archives.
Its a nut cracker that can crush two nuts at the same time. It will be for a friend.

[Anonymous No.2590803]

>>2590797
>>$5.75/floz
>>Hairspray: 50c/floz
do you have any clue what MASS means??

[Anonymous No.2590805]

>>2590797
>Hairspray: 50c/floz
No, hairspray in solution with vapor in the can is 50c/floz. Which is butane, not just compressed air, it's a not-insignificant proportion of the moles and the weight.

[Anonymous No.2590807]

>>2590803
Yes, I do. Do you know what density is?
The specific gravity of hairspray is typically around 1.0, about the same as water.
Bed Weld is roughly 50% water, you want to tell me you think it's considerably denser?

If it were as dense as molasses there'd be 165g of goo in their 4oz bottle.
An average, not cheap, average can of hairspray gets you 10oz for $5, roughly 300g of product.

Bed Weld, realistically, ~20c per gram, but I'll be generous and assume it's molasses heavy and runs 14c per gram.
A typical, midrange can of hairspray runs ~1.6c per gram, 9-12x cheaper than the Bed Weld.

Open your mouth again faggot child.

[Anonymous No.2590810]

>>2590807
>The specific gravity of hairspray is typically around 1.0
This is true in liquid form, not remotely for gas. That can't volume is measure in gas. Just because it's advertised in fluid ounces rather than grams, doesn't mean it relates to the liquid state if it's not marketed or used that way.

[Anonymous No.2590811]

>>2590810
>can't
can's.* If you wanted to cool it into a liquid, it would lose a massive majority of its volume.

[Anonymous No.2590814]

>>2590805
>>2590810
Hairsprays run around 30% propellent by weight.
Most 10floz cans of hairspray are advertised as ~280g of product.
If 30% of that is propellent, you've got roughly 195g of actual product in the can.

195g for $3 - $6 as opposed to a 110-165g bottle of Bed Weld for $23.

[Anonymous No.2590815]

>>2590807
>10oz
of vapor is nowhere near 300g. It's probably like 3g.

[Anonymous No.2590818]

>>2590807
>Bed Weld is roughly 50% water
This is the whole point btw. Almost all the water evaporates as your bed warms up leaving a film of pureish adhesive.

[Anonymous No.2590820]

>>2590814
>roughly 195g of actual product in the can.
As a daily ahirspray user I can tell you this doesn't matter either. Go ahead annd check if you want. But than can from walmart and hold down the button until it stops spraying. Weigh it again. You have not lost 195g or 600g. you've lost like 1/5 of that.

[Anonymous No.2590821]

>>2590820
>But
buy*

>or 600g
300g*

[Anonymous No.2590822]

>>2590820
>hold down the button until it stops spraying
Indoors, without ventilation, near an open flame. if possible.

[Anonymous No.2590828]

>>2590820
Have you tried this yourself?
You'll be disappointed when you discover from new to empty there's a difference of over 200g.

My brand new 11oz can of Aquanet weighs 410g.
My not yet empty but well used can weighs 273g.

Y'all niggas retarded.

[Anonymous No.2590829]

>>2590818
>leaving a film of pureish adhesive.
Hairspray, by constrast, also leaves a film of 25-50% benzene esters and ethanol and other solvent/nonadhesive contaminants, which actively fight adhesion and seep right into some filaments.

He is not wrong dude, no commercial shop or mkspace uses hairspray. If anything they use gluestick or chink knockoff at 1/5th the cost of normietier namebrand adhesive.

[Anonymous No.2590830]

>>2590829
Oh the Bed Weld is definitely way better than hairspray.

[Anonymous No.2590831]

>>2590828
>273g.
I'm sorry, is 410-273 equal to 300 now? Or is it literally unabashedly less than half that? You're also still including mass of propellant.

[Anonymous No.2590834]

>>2590831
>My not yet empty but well used can weighs 273g.
I've already used 137g, which I'd say puts the can around halfway empty based on the weight measurement.

The whole can new weighs 410g. They claim 312g of product. Most hairspray is around 30% propellent, so that's more like 218g of product.

I've used 137g of the 312g I expect to get out of that can. If I had an empty right now to compare, I would, but I don't and I don't intend to completely empty the rest of that can to make the point.
The weight difference between a brand new and a totally empty can will be roughly the weight rating on the side, arguing otherwise is retarded shit for children.

[Anonymous No.2590837]

>>2590820
>>2590821
You think on a can that says 300g on it you get 60g out? You're fucking retarded.
You get 300g out. You're welcome to try it yourself.

[Anonymous No.2590850]

>>2590837
>You think on a can that says 300g on it you get 60g out?
Yeah dude, that's exactly what this other anon's picrel with the scale is showing. More than half the mass is propellant according to him
>>2590814
>30% of that is propellent,
and the other half doesn't come out at all.

>I've already used 137g, which I'd say puts the can around halfway empty
say it all you want dude.

[Anonymous No.2590851]

>>2590837
>You get 300g out.
By bursting the can maybe. You don't get the net wt out of a peanut butter jar by pouring it.

[Anonymous No.2590852]

>>2590850
>propellant
propellant and water*

[Anonymous No.2590862]

I'm not ready to get into printing yet, but I got a model gun kit for christmas that needs sanding.
It seems to me the best way to go would be a Dremel, so what kind does /3dpg/ recommend?

[Anonymous No.2590864]

>>2590716
No I mean where is it in last thread

[Anonymous No.2590874]

>>2590785
Thanks anon, I just finished cleaning the hotend, shit was full of some demonic black goo but now all is working properly

[Anonymous No.2590883]

>>2590864
>No I mean where is it in last thread
>>2586899
>>2586900
>No one man should have all this power...

[Anonymous No.2590954]

>>2590654
ender 3? If so, grab the opposite end of the gantry from the z screw and see how much it moves up and down by hand.

[Anonymous No.2590956]

>>2590708
you want the fan off for the first few layers, for some reason it makes elephants foot worse, apparently that "common knowledge" according to a user on discord a few years ago, but all the articles I read never mentioned this.

[Anonymous No.2590966]

Tiny ass photo cos this is print came out kinda messy but Mini 13 is cool

[Anonymous No.2590994]

>>2590601
>>2590629
It's some Bilby 3D PLA filament? I know it was opened last year, but I'm not sure how old the actual filament is cause it looked like it had been around a couple of years. I found some GitHub with some optimal Kobra Neo settings, so it sets the temp to 201 and a bed temp of 60. The room it's on is also pretty warm if that matters.

[Anonymous No.2591118]

cura slicer tried printing 0.01mm layers with adaptive layers and I didn't notice. My print failed. Thanks cura

I hate despite having 10 thousand settings, you can't customize layer heights through the print

[Anonymous No.2591135]

Why aren't we seeing more Z belt bedslingers like pic related?
>one motor is cheaper than two
>good belts are cheaper than good leadscrews
>no wobble issues
Of course some gears and bearings have to be added, but still nothing that would sway costs suddenly or drastically. Especially if we assume high quality steppers to begin with.
Gave it quite some thought now, but I keep coming back to these points. So what's the catch i'm not seeing here?

[Anonymous No.2591143]

>>2590797
>PEI is fucking great
>Buildtak is ancient garbage that needs to die off already.
You guys have me all confused.

[Anonymous No.2591146]

>>2591143
nm I figured out that "original" buildtak is some other shit.

[Anonymous No.2591152]

>>2591143
BuildTak is a company, known for their "BuildTak Original 3D Printing Surface."
It was better than a lot of the shit we were using before, but it doesn't compete with the options that are available now.
BuildTak the company also makes BuildTak PEI Printing surfaces like what you see in your screenshot, functionally no different than any other PEI sheet.
They also make a version of their BuildTak surface called BuildTak Nylon+, which is not made of nylon, but intended for printing nylon.

I'm a fan of PEI coated steel sheets. Magnetic build plates are convenient as fuck, PEI coated steel works well, and double-sided ones are cheap, giving you the option between a smooth and a textured surface.

[Anonymous No.2591177]

>>2590883
Ah thanks anon

>>2591135
what's the net gear ratio (e.g. steps per mm) like? with screws you get like a 5:1 or 10:1 reduction from the pitch of the screw, with that belt you might not get enough z resolution, even with tiny gears like that. also small gears might not be circular enough

i'd also like it more if there were an easy way of finely adjusting the difference in height between the two belts, maybe a vernier stack of different holes to bolt the belt holders in place is the way to go. that way you could ensure the gantry is perfectly level, just levelling the bed could end up with skewed angles (not 90° verticals).

[Anonymous No.2591189]

>>2591177
>what's the net gear ratio (e.g. steps per mm) like?

2mm pitch belt, 200 steps/rev, 16-tooth pulley, 0.16mm resolution with no microstepping. 4x brings that to 0.04mm. 16x, or 0.01mm, would probably be right on the limit of what's realistic in terms of usable resolution.

>>2591135
>nothing that would sway costs suddenly or drastically
Most of these machines are very cost optimized. The extra few thousand dollars a year not adding these parts saves would absolutely sway the companies making them. You're also forgetting you need to add a brake for when the machine powers off, which is yet more cost and design work.

Considering the benefits are marginal for 99% of users, there's just not much incentive to produce a machine with a belted Z axis.

[Anonymous No.2591206]

>>2591189
Some of the Belt Driven Z mods I've seen, including the fancy Ender 3 one from KevinAkaSam, use a reduction.
In the case of KevinAkaSam's mod, it's a 5:1 (80T:16T) reduction driving 20T pulleys.
1.8° stepper, that gets you 25 steps/mm or 0.04mm per full step, 16x microstepping takes that down to an unrealistic 2.5 microns.

[Anonymous No.2591222]

>>2591189
>You're also forgetting you need to add a brake for when the machine powers off, which is yet more cost and design work.

Not the anon you replied to, but anon that has z belt mod. Like on the voron switchwire, z belt mod has keybak system to hold the gantry, they are heavy duty retractable ID badge holders. The ones you need to buy are "14oz workload"

Here is some info about it. https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3/tree/main/V3_Extras/Keybak

I don't use keybak, mine slightly drops but nothing to be concerned about.

[Lela Rodgers No.2591233]

>>2591206
>use a reduction.

What's even the point, then? Most of the draw of a belt, far as I can tell, is the speed. Most acme screws used on 3D printers (at least, as far as I can tell) are 8mm lead. That setup described gives the exact same 8mm/rev when using a 2mm belt. All you've really done at that point is the ability to z-hop, since there's little to no backlash in a belt. Might be worth it for some materials, but probably not enough for a manufacturer to hassle with it.

>>2591222
>keybak system to hold the gantry

A counterbalance certainly works, not sure that or a very simple solenoid-actuated brake on either the shaft or belt would be cheaper. Either way, added cost is added cost.<div class="xa23b"><span class="xa23t"></span><span class="xa23i"></span></div>

[Anonymous No.2591252]

>>2591233
>powered by GPT-4chan

Did I just get called an NPC by a fucking website?

[Anonymous No.2591265]

for me... its Hegron... cheap, hair gel

[Anonymous No.2591266]

>>2591265
neat, will try this, where do you buy

[Anonymous No.2591268]

>>2591266
hebe () or rossmann

[Anonymous No.2591270]

>>2591233
>Most of the draw of a belt, far as I can tell, is the speed
No, not at all. Speed is hardly a concern on the z-axis of a bed-slinger.
Most of the advantage is eliminating the problems with cheap leadscrews, nuts, and poor alignment.
The belt-driven z mod removes the mechanical influence of the leadscrew entirely, which eliminates most VFAs.
The real goal is more consistent layers and better overall print quality.

[Anonymous No.2591305]

>>2591233
>z-hop
also non-planar shit

[Anonymous No.2591310]

>>2590451
Gentlemen, I was trying to create manual supports for a piece where some of the supports will be pretty long. Felt generous, so I enabled base pattern generation, but the pattern it generated is all fucked up, and going through itself on the same layer, this shit will knock my print over in no time. What the fuck am I doing wrong? Anyone encountered this before?

Its bambu studio...

[Anonymous No.2591322]

>>2591177
>gear ratio
Don't know on previous pic related but i'm currently planning on 4:1 as in if it's good enough for vorons it should be good enough for me. As right now i can only say my friend's voron 2.4 prints far nicer layers than all of my uni's prusas.

>finely adjusting the difference in height between the two belts
I'm not sure if understand you correctly. Obviously i wouldn't use different sized belts and as in position, i'd rather attach the pulley on y than z framepiece. Same above, i'd start on top the x framepiece.
I'll see if i can move my plan from paper to cad later today and will post again.

>>2591189
>You're also forgetting you need to add a brake for when the machine powers off
This discussion is so overdone, so i'll just say given any notch of a (hot) nozzle into the print, i'd restart anyway.

>The extra few thousand dollars a year not adding these parts saves would absolutely sway the companies making them
That's the point though, i know everything is a bit different in chinese supplies, but at the end of the day i see a motor and some lead screws less for pulleys and belts. Even if it's penny grabbing, why is there nothing midrange up to prusa doing it? At this point it should be something obvious in my mind.

[Anonymous No.2591337]

>>2591310
okay, the randomly placed honeycomb patter was somehow related to the support type not being set to default, but the fucker still trying to pull weird movements like this...

[Anonymous No.2591349]

>>2591337
Alright, I fixed it, dont know why, but if you set multiple wall loops on the support, the infill base pattern just ignores it and goes right trought it.
Thanks for listening to my blog.

[Anonymous No.2591356]

>>2590731
It seems to be a problem with the model (it's a tile).

This is the tile seen from above. On the left is what should happen: it starts printing, goes around in a spirally fashion, then begins filling up the inside.
On the right is what actually happens: on the very first lap it clips the starting point and drags it around.

Again, I've tried everything. Different temps, slow speeds, cleaning the bed, leveling the bed...

[Anonymous No.2591357]

>>2591349
>>2591310
Neat stuff, and I guess thanks for letting me know bambu studio exists, seems solid

[Anonymous No.2591364]

>>2591357
If you want to use a bambu studio based slicer, then I recommend using OrcaSlicer. Has everything that bambu got, and then more.

[Anonymous No.2591366]

Hello fags, what's the best way to run a 3D printer with Klipper that doesn't involve a sòyberry Pi?
Virtual machine on my PC? Is that possible?

[Anonymous No.2591369]

>>2591366
>best way
>VM on PC
Yes, it is possible, but you might as well just use your old phone like everyone else.

[Anonymous No.2591371]

>>2591369
So a smartphone is the way to go?

[Anonymous No.2591373]

Hey dudes, I've been using my FLSUN Super Racer for a month by placing my gcodes in an SD card then placing the SD card in the printer, essentially with the printer never ever connected to the PC.
Is this bad? Should I use something like Repetier Host to control the printer instead?

[Anonymous No.2591374]

>>2591366
Klipper can run on anything you can install linux onto, its that simple. Of course hardware has to be decent.

>>2591371
If you can install linux using linuxdeploy, then thats fine it can double as klipperscreen, too.

[Anonymous No.2591375]

Any idea what my hotend isn't getting hot?
>Geeetech a20
>Replaced hotend
>Replaced hotend board on the z gantry
> Replaced both fuses on the control board underneath.

Only thing I haven't replaced is the entire control board (I think it's a Rambo not sure offnhand), and haven't replaced the power supply in 1+ years

[Anonymous No.2591393]

>>2591375
did you verify its actually not getting hot or reading what the sensor says? Have you considered it is getting hot but the sensor went bad?

[Anonymous No.2591404]

>>2591393
Yes, stays cold
I put a hairdryer on the thermo resistor? And it was reading a change in temp.
So new resistor, new tube, new hotend and element, new z gantry board. Display reads power increase for temp (as does octopi) , just no temp change

Only thing I haven't done that comes to mind is
Replace entire main board (fuses have been replaced
Replace entire power supply

>Any idea what my hotend isn't getting hot?
>>Geeetech a20
>>Replaced hotend
>>Replaced hotend board on the z gantry
>> Replaced both fuses on the control board underneath.

>Only thing I haven't replaced is the entire control board (I think it's a Rambo not sure offnhand), and haven't replaced the power supply in 1+ years

[Anonymous No.2591424]

How hard a job it is to change the stepper drivers/ whole ass mainboard of a printer? It's an older MEGA-board type shit running Repetier. It would be great if it didn't sound like robots fucking when it prints.

[Anonymous No.2591430]

The centre of my glass bed feels smoother then the edges when hot. Is it possible I've worn out the surface or maybe damaged it? I've only had it since January and I haven't printed out loads. Probably not even 1kg of filament

[Anonymous No.2591443]

Update on belt thoughts; probably gonna turn it into dual Z due to looking too long at it. I'm enjoying the process of going from scratch though.

[Anonymous No.2591539]

>>2591404
Anyone else have any thoughts?

[Anonymous No.2591549]

>>2591404
>Replace entire main board (fuses have been replaced
>Replace entire power supply
Sounds like you probably burned out a power MOSFET somewhere on your mainboard, or a peripheral board between mainboard and hotend.

Have fun fixing that, I'd probably just buy a new board.

[Anonymous No.2591558]

What do? Just trying to split a part down the middle so I can print it

[Anonymous No.2591559]

>>2591558
It doesn't matter. The actual geometry is the same, it will print exactly like a cylinder would when considering the precision of your printer.

[Anonymous No.2591562]

>>2591559
>print exactly like a cylinder would
In fact, I think it would produce an indistinguishable .dxf, other than including 2 unnecessary points.

[Anonymous No.2591563]

>>2591559
>print
slice*

otherwise correct

[Anonymous No.2591577]

>>2591559
All I had to do was make two vertical lines extending past the curves. Thanks anyways.

[Anonymous No.2591579]

Bought the glass bed for my Eneder 3, perfect first layer here I come. Do I need some adhesion glue for PLA, or does it just stick?

[Anonymous No.2591580]

>>2591577
>All I had to do was make two vertical lines extending past the curves.
sounds like work.

[Anonymous No.2591595]

>>2591270
>Most of the advantage is eliminating the problems with cheap leadscrews, nuts, and poor alignment.

IDK, at that point, it almost feels like buying a new car because the tires are balanced wrong.

>>2591322
>so i'll just say given any notch of a (hot) nozzle into the print, i'd restart anyway

Not specifically for unexpected power off, but ANY power off. If you don't have a brake and the gantry is heavy enough to overcome the cogging of the stepper, the gantry will just fall untli the nozzle hits the bed. Probably not hard enough to cause damage, but not a good look, at best.

>Even if it's penny grabbing, why is there nothing midrange up to prusa doing it?

There are also costs associated with just changing the design even if it costs the same. Re-tooling/training for the new features isn't free. Might not be a lot, but money is money, in the accountant's eyes. If it costs to change and the new design costs more to make, it's not hard to see why a manufacturer would be hesitant. The only way they'd do it is if they were looking to boost sales because something competitive came along that was doing similar.

[Anonymous No.2591616]

Why printers have "min layer height"? They can move z motor in smaller distances, why can't they also print layers at such distances? What is the cause for that limitation?

My printer's web page (sovol sv01) lists it as 0.1mm. I will try pushing for lower. I think it should be fine as long as I am not printing over infill but other solid layers

[Anonymous No.2591644]

what is this outside support for? It is not supporting anything

[Anonymous No.2591645]

Is there a college course on 3d printing yet? I feel like there's a lot more to it than what most people do. Like a course on writing 3d printer g-code or building a custom printer

[Anonymous No.2591647]

>>2591616
>can move z motor in smaller distances
they can, but there is indeed a limit eventually, because they are stepping.

> I will try pushing for lower. I think it should be fine as long as I am not printing over infill but other solid layers
Smaller layers are harder to print because the plastic is viscous. It doesn't want to bead out that thin, and it drags instead. Consider honey vs. water. Printing a solid layer of hot glue on top of another one. etc.

[Anonymous No.2591682]

>>2591645
>writing 3d printer g-code
no one does this by hand ever

>building a custom printer
mechatronics or shop class

[Anonymous No.2591685]

>>2591682
>mechatronics
not the anon you replied to but

>keep switching to software, electronic, mechanical
>Hear about mechatronic engineering
>Live in the US
>doubt theres any courses
>surprise.jpg there isn't any
>Find out waterloo university has mechatronics courses

I kind of want to see if I can get in.

[Anonymous No.2591686]

>>2591685
mechatronics and protptyping courses are the most fun you will ever have in an engineering curriculum, unless you are a math sperg.

[Anonymous No.2591695]

>>2590749
Fuzzy skin feature unser"Experimental"

[Anonymous No.2591713]

>>2590862
Get the pro one that you can attach a flex shaft to it and something to hang the tool from. I don't recommend the battery powered version if you plan on actually using it to cut shit like metal.

[Anonymous No.2591747]

>>2591424
Not hard at all, but it depends on the board obviously.
Did you have a specific board in mind?

[Anonymous No.2591748]

>>2591579
Mate, i would always use some glue, it's a lot easier to remove.
I use just a little bit and then use a drop of water to smear it into a very thin layer.

[Anonymous No.2591755]

>>2591356
pls respond

[Anonymous No.2591756]

>>2591579
I don't use anything and I often have difficulty removing prints from glass bed. if anything it sticks too well

[Anonymous No.2591817]

>>2591686
>unless you are a math sperg

I sucked at math in high school (im 33 now im a old fag) and I finished my intermediate algebra in college with a 90%

I am in college algebra course now, and this shit makes much more sense for me. I am hopeful I can get up to where I need to be. I know thats saying quite a bit just for passing intermediate algebra. But I've had a better outlook on my life than I use to.

Thanks for coming to my TedTalk

[Anonymous No.2591818]

>>2591756
I lightly spray the base of the print if I used glue or hair spray, if you can get a corner to slightly lift and spray under it. You will hear cracking like crazy.

[Anonymous No.2591819]

>>2591356
You're nozzle is too far from the bed, like its close enough to have print stick, but its not sticking well enough.

What bed surface are you using?
What kind filament are you using when this happens? (pla / petg / abs / asa)
If you are using isopropyl alcohol to "clean the bed" you're not cleaning the bed, you're just moving the oil/dirt/whatever around.

[Anonymous No.2591820]

>>2591443
>probably gonna turn it into dual Z

unless you are going to use a controller board to independently control each z I would scrap the idea.

Why do it from scratch when the mod exists already? Or are you wanting change some of the designs but not bother remixing the existing ones?

[Anonymous No.2591821]

>>2591818
I meant water btw.

[Anonymous No.2591823]

>>2591817
>admitting to being a math sperg
>>>/sci/ basedboy.

[Anonymous No.2591934]

Making a mosquito mesh frame to fit in my window. The mesh is sandwiched between thin pieces of PLA frame and angle aluminium for rigidity. Once the glue is dry I'll glue foam to one side and use little plastic clips to hold it in the aluminium window. Hope JB-weld sticks to PLA.

Aluminium cost like 12USD, mesh cost 5USD, foam was lying around, maybe 100g of filament, looks like it will be a pretty cheap project.
No I'm not sticking that magnetic shit to my window.

[Anonymous No.2591972]

>>2591558
Your sketch is all blue so it's underdefined. What I'm guessing is that the upper arc is a hair more than 180 degrees. On top of that the surface you're extruding seems to have some sort of option to extend past the sketch so it's extending tangentially thus making the extra cut. I don't have inventor currently installed so I don't know the exact option. When creating surfaces for slicing in invetor you need the cutting surface pass the solid by a safe margin, otherwise there are errors. You can project cut edges when creating the sketches to use as construction geometry, so you don't have to do silly maths to figure out centers and all that.
Also, you might want to locate the tabs or other centering geometry away from the edges of the cut so you don't end up with sharp endes that are hard to print and weak.

[Anonymous No.2591985]

Bros, my print failed right at the end, it looks like at some point the print suddenly shifted coordinates https://streamable.com/8b7o7h
It was printing on a long support, but the support was stable when I checked it afterwards, also the g-code looked fine to me. I printed a quick test print on that location after the failure, but it came out perfect. Any Idea what went wrong?

[Anonymous No.2592017]

>>2591985
Why would you possibly orient and float your part like that, and with those curved wide supports? I think I need to vomit.

[Anonymous No.2592023]

>>2592017
Its a case for a dagger, the supports are wide because at that height it would topple otherwise.
With this angle I could print without supports on the inside. Also its longer than the maximum height of the chamber, if you wonder.
But if Vomit-kun has a better idea to print a single piece ASA case for a dagger, Im all ears.

[Anonymous No.2592026]

>>2592023
>longer than the maximum height of the chamber
nope this is what I needed to know. Good ol pythagoras.

I don't think it would need internal supports if it were printed with the short side up, like {()}, across your bed corner to corner. The overhang angles are not that steep that way.

[Anonymous No.2592027]

>>2592026
>I don't think it would need internal supports if it were printed with the short side up, like {()}
Fucking hell Im retarded, didnt think about that orientation, will try that later, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2592057]

>mfw have to babysit my print because the PLA snags constantly in the spool
what fucking melanin-enriched individual at PRIMA wound this fucking shit? I have to keep peeling the filament free from overlaps

[Anonymous No.2592069]

>>2592057
>what fucking melanin-enriched individual at PRIMA wound this fucking shit? I have to keep peeling the filament free from overlaps

People are going to 10000% sure that you let go of the end and the spool unwounded wound it back up, and you caused the snag.

But! at the factory someone has to take it off the machine right? If you are being rushed in that job you can easily lose the end of the spool, but you don't have time or care to make sure the end is free from binding before vacuum seal it.

Happened to me with hatchbox spool. I didn't let go of the end, I have to wind up hoists on cranes at work, its a pain in the ass if you don't wind it properly. Same concept with filament spools but smaller. But people were still saying it was me. *shrugs* aight I know I didn't let go of the end at all.

So I will give you the benefit of the doubt that you're competent enough not to cause a snag on the spool.

[Anonymous No.2592139]

>>2591819
>What bed surface are you using?
Glass, heated bed
>What kind filament are you using when this happens? (pla / petg / abs / asa)
Standard PLA
>If you are using isopropyl alcohol to "clean the bed" you're not cleaning the bed, you're just moving the oil/dirt/whatever around.
I was actually using what I thnk is ethyl alcohol, you know the pink one.
Anyways how do I properly clean it then?

[Anonymous No.2592193]

Who was the guy in here a few weeks ago complaining about how hard it was to print Polycarbonate?
I got this on my second print, using no brim. Explain yourself!

[Anonymous No.2592198]

>>2592193
Thats a pretty nice print Anon, what machine?

[Anonymous No.2592205]

>>2592198
Thanks! It's a Voron 2.4, with 3DXTech ezPC-CF.

[A-Anon No.2592215]

>>2592193

Hey, I want one of those

[Anonymous No.2592222]

>>2592215
You're in the right hobby then.

[Anonymous No.2592264]

>>2591558
bro printing the ak gas toob, kek.

[Anonymous No.2592308]

>>2592139

>Glass, heated bed
I would try elmers glue stick like those purple ones, or aquanet/

>I was actually using what I thnk is ethyl alcohol, you know the pink one.
>Anyways how do I properly clean it then?

Sorry for the late response, dish soap and warp water is fine, I wear latex gloves when I clean them to avoid smudges. Do not use any windex I tried this multi surface stuff and I think it removed what glass sheet on it, IDK how to describe it, but theglass sheet seemed like it had some sort of finish or something to help hold prints to the bed.

[Anonymous No.2592317]

>print stops at 98%
>makes a beep-beep-beep sound for a few seconds, then beepbeepbeepbeep, then nothing
>pressing print button makes it reheat, beep again then cool down
>no visual error on screen, just the beep
WTF happened? I can't find anything about this online or in the manual. It's an Ender 3.

[Anonymous No.2592320]

>>2592317
Should have bought an Ender3, they are top quality from China for good prices. Particularly the Ender3 V2 and Pro are known for their robust performance.

[Anonymous No.2592326]

>>2592317
run your fingers across the top gantry; does it feel smooth or is there a tingle in your fingertips?

[Anonymous No.2592327]

>>2592023
Cut it in half here, then print the two parts standing up, finally glew them together

[Anonymous No.2592351]

It spins, even if it squeaks a little and it's still stiff.
The white part is a printed nylon bushing on a ferris wheel

[Anonymous No.2592426]

>>2591443
Z resolution is a meme. Some guy made a 2.4 with direct drive and it prints fine, the only issue was that if you don't code the brakes correctly, it kinetically penetrates your precious cast gantry. That's probably the main reason. If anybody tries to sell you a lead screw with a smaller pitch, it's because it's cheaper to source or because they're trying to put more weight on cheap stepper motors. Nobody's cnc machine accuracy is limited by the resolution of the electronics.

[Anonymous No.2592434]

My wife made Sonic.

[Anonymous No.2592452]

>>2591747
No specific board. It's a CoreXY-kinematics printer with a dual extruders so I'd want support for that. It'd be on company dime so It doesn't have to be the cheapest option.

[Anonymous No.2592454]

If non-planar and arc overhangs become the standard technology for making any slope under 10° or so smoother, what would be a good stress-testing model for that?

[Anonymous No.2592495]

>>2592320
That’s an ender 3 s1 tard.

[Anonymous No.2592498]

>>2592434
Cool.

>>2592452
In that case you want a board with 5 drivers. I got a SKR E3 1.4 with TMC2208 drivers my Tronxy X5SA Pro (also CoreXY):
https://de.aliexpress.com/i/4000470048293.html
Don't get the Turbo variant, it has no advantage in real life. Runs Marlin or Clipper, cost was 45€ for me.

[Anonymous No.2592601]

bros I love my super racer
do you love your printer?

[Anonymous No.2592653]

>>2592601
My printer could beat up your printer.

[Anonymous No.2592659]

Holy shit lads, bought some cheap glass (or mirror) and hair spray and newer knew that first layer could look so good and stick so well. Bretty good investment. Wonder how is pei sheet since I really like that rough surface.

[Anonymous No.2592782]

my first print ever

[Anonymous No.2592784]

I've had my 16h print fail while I was asleep, woke up to a clogged nozzle. I was able to use the good old negative Z trick and, after unclogging, resume the print from where it was.
It kinda looks a bit weird on the layer where it resumed though, and I'm afraid it might be too fragile. Is there some kind of fix for it? I thought about using a heat gun trying to increase strength there but I'm afraid of fucking it up more.
I'll post a pic when the print ends.

[Anonymous No.2592785]

>>2592782
very nice, anon.

[Anonymous No.2592786]

>>2592782
Let's see Paul Allens benchy

[Anonymous No.2592787]

>>2592785
>>2592786
x1 carbon finally came in

[Anonymous No.2592795]

>>2590593
I tried drying the filament in an oven for a couple of hours and tried printing the same thing again. It looks a lot better, but it still isn't great. At this point should I just assume the printer settings are fine, and it's just a filament issue so not really a problem since I could just buy a new reel?

[Anonymous No.2592797]

>>2592795
Let me try that again. I have no idea how to use Kuroba's resize features.

[Anonymous No.2592801]

>>2592795
You could try a filament dryer. Also, make sure to add some desiccant to the oven/dryer otherwise you'll never get a complete dry.

[Anonymous No.2592802]

>>2592782
Thank you for the palm print, citizen.

[Anonymous No.2592809]

>>2592801
So it's definitely just busted filament at this point and not printer settings? I'm just trying to fine tune the printer itself, so if at this point I'm just getting filament issues as opposed to printer issues, that'd be great.

[Anonymous No.2592851]

>bambu lab recently started being unable to autolevel the bed
>restart it, reseat the print sheet, home it then run it again
>it works, remove print without removing the sheet
>next print autobed leveling fails
>repeat same process, still errors
>turn it off and walk away
>next day turn it back on and autolevel and starts print perfectly fine
>come back 45 minutes later and its birdnesting because apparently grid infill overextrudes and can cause the front of the toolhead to jiggle off and knock the toolhead around. all without triggering a crash error
i fucking hate chinks so much oh my god. I'm going to take the back apart to check the wire for the bed sensor, but it's intermittent so i have no fucking clue whats wrong with this piece of shit.

[Anonymous No.2592854]

>>2592851
>1. Rip out printer brain
>2. install Klipper on an Octo-Pi
That's literally all you need to do.

[Anonymous No.2592869]

>>2592854
This, but mainsail. Octoklipper is gay, no reason not to go with a more efficient approach

[Anonymous No.2592870]

>>2592809
>So it's definitely just busted filament at this point and not printer settings?
It could be both, it's up to you to figure it out

[Anonymous No.2592872]

>>2592869
I should have been more clear: Klipper on an Octopus MCU and Raspberry Pi. And Mainsail is implied, because Fluidd is for trannies.
I forgot that Octoprint even existed.

[Anonymous No.2592916]

Is there some kinda of parametric model for a hotend fanduct. I want to put a chc volcano on an ender 3. But the whole designing a cooling system looks daunting. Ive already spent over 6 hours doing so and realized Im doing it poorly.

[Anonymous No.2592922]

>>2592653
maybe the stock version of my printer
what you got f a m

[Anonymous No.2592928]

Trying to learn 3D modeling for printing. Friend of mine said solidworks can't be torrented because it's DRM is impossible to crack, is that true?

[Anonymous No.2592929]

>>2592922
I've got a 300mm V2.4, let's race to see who can print a 12"x12"x11" calibration cube the fastest.

[Anonymous No.2592930]

>>2592928
It's true, plus even if you figure out how to crack it, egghead engineers like myself who paid out the ass will snitch on you so you don't eat our lunch.
Solidworks is serious business, may I suggest Fusion 360?

[Anonymous No.2592932]

>>2592928
I use freecad. If I can figure out how it works having never done 3d modeling before, you can too. 100% free and you own all your models unlike basically every other piece of software out there.

[Anonymous No.2592933]

>>2592929
Aight that's a big printer

[Anonymous No.2592934]

Has anyone built a Voron? Im pretty excited for the poosa mk4. I’ve run a business with my mk3s for the last 3 years or so and it’s been a nice side hustle. I’ve never had any problems with the quality of parts that comes out of it but I like the fact that the new one is faster and for me, the quick change nozzle is a game changer. I always seem to fuck up nozzle changes which cucks me into sticking with the 0.4. Picrel is some part I just got payed £30 to print out.

[Anonymous No.2592937]

FDM fellas, what do you sell? Vases?

[Anonymous No.2592943]

>>2592937
car parts

[Anonymous No.2592944]

>>2592932
How do you like it?

[Anonymous No.2592947]

>>2592933
For you

[Anonymous No.2592948]

>>2592944
NTA
its ugly, unintuitive, buggy as fuck and i absolutely love it
i do sometimes use openscad for actually parametric designs, but its a bit harder to use in some cases

[Anonymous No.2592951]

>>2592944
Once you get over its autism it's really solid. It's a HARD-LINE autist-only program, but really solid. Only main complaint is that you can only have one single object at a time.

[Anonymous No.2592966]

A guy is selling an Ender 3 for 85€ locally. It would be my first time into 3D printing, which I have always wanted to do, but didn't because I don't see myself doing anything with it, but maybe once I dig a little I might use it more.
The thing is that the guy claims he doesn't know which model it is, apart from being the "3". Is it that relevant? It's just 85 bucks and he includes some filament.

[Anonymous No.2592974]

>>2592966
Likely the oldest model. It's results can be as good as the newer ones, but it will be louder. I for one don't care.
Let the guy print some calibration cube or something when you are there, it doesn't have to be perfect, just to make sure the printer works at all.
Pic rel is my original Ender 3 i sold for 110€ last year.

[Anonymous No.2592975]

>>2592974
Nice, he says it has an alimunium strudder, and two different "beds", magnetic and glass.
It looks heavily used, but I guess it's OK for a starter? Also he says it's the 3X, which I don't know if it actually means anything.
He will bring it to me at 19:00 here (12:00 right now).

The only thing I am a little worried is about the filament being "wet"? Because I live in a pretty smol and humid island, so leaving the filament on top shouldn't be a good idea I guess, and the things I have seen to dry the filament looks as expensive as the printer itself.

[Anonymous No.2592977]

>>2592975
>strudder
I derped there. Extruder. It's looks like a 10~15€ upgrade.
There are lots of stuff for the ender 3 on Amazon, so I guess that's a plus for a beginner.

[Anonymous No.2592981]

Hello /diy/, I'm clueless as a brick and just decided to blow some money for a 3d printer. Everyone including the OP recommends an Ender 3 v2 but it's now the same price for me to buy a CR-6-SE. It already has autoleveling, the one upgrade i thought I'd definitely need. Will there be a downside to it? Should i stick with the Ender 3v2 instead for having "customization options"? I've read as much as i could find but I'd really like your opinion on it - am i missing something?

[Anonymous No.2592987]

>>2592975
My extruder was the plastic one for years, sometimes they break and you replace them, sometimes they don't. Doesn't matter to you, as you have the metal version.
Glas bed is awesome, once your printer is dialed in, you can have awesome prints on it. Not a fan of the magnetic polycarbonate beds (black). Both work, but glass is better in my opinion.
These are the revisions of the Ender 3, yours looks like the first one:
https://finest-plastics.cybercowboy.de/doku.php?id=printer:creality_ender_3:creality_ender_3
Filament is hygroscopic, PLA less so than PETG. That is why i store mine in vacuum bags. Bought a kit with 10 bags and a pump and indicators for 15€. Wet filament is still ok for technical parts or for experiments, take it if it's free, leave it if it costs money.

[Anonymous No.2592992]

>>2592981
Get an FLSUN Super Racer

[Anonymous No.2592998]

>>2592934
>payed

[Anonymous No.2593015]

>>2592987
I use ikea ziploc bags and suck the air out with my mouth
Working fine for PETG for years

[Anonymous No.2593016]

>>2592937
I just made some check gauges for work last night. The place they were going to have the made was going to charge $86, and it cost me $2.40 in filament. I'm going to see if I can get a free roll out of the deal.

[Anonymous No.2593017]

>>2592937
Very niche milling jigs for car model parts

[Anonymous No.2593018]

>>2593017
Sorry I'm esl, meant to say RC/toy cars.

[Anonymous No.2593020]

>>2592975
new filament is dry and worth the price to start with good filament. that machine looks a little beat, but it should be fine. you can also find sealed filament (new) on marketplace or craigslist.

[Anonymous No.2593023]

>>2592975
Well, it doesn't look beat, it looks used. It's likely just the polycarbonate layer on the glass that is used, or maybe it's just glue stick you can wipe off. Either way, just use the other side if it bothers you.
Ender 3 uses plastic rollers, check if they are used much. It's likely this printer hasn't been used much at all, maybe just 20 or so print hours, by then normies lose interest.

[Anonymous No.2593024]

>>2592928
>>2592930
lol don't worry about this pencilpusher.

I'm an engineer as well and have a copy of SW cracked. Check the pirate bay, think there is one there from SolidSQUAD, they usually pretty solid with their stuff.

[Anonymous No.2593040]

>>2592981
you'll be fine with the CR6SE. we'll call you a faggot for buying it but you won't be paying a premium to be an enderfag.

[Anonymous No.2593041]

>>2592937
sell? I'm too busy printing utility shit for my self. I should put some shit up on 3dcults for a few cents but I can't be assed.

[Anonymous No.2593058]

>>2593024
Where do you work?

[Anonymous No.2593061]

>>2590553
Is that happening during a layer with an overhang? It could be that the circles up side is hitting your nozzle

[Anonymous No.2593141]

So this is it. 4 filaments, one white still closed, another just started, a Grey one half way in adn a pink one almost done.
The machine is very dusty, and the dude said he has used it a lot, but didn't touch it for the last three months. I will calibrate and do a benchie later. I think I will set this in the corner of my new house (I'm moving and I'm still figuring out how to set my furnitures and such), next to a window, but I don't really have a better place I think.

[Anonymous No.2593184]

>>2593141
That thing looks surprisingly clean, and barely touched/modified, nice find.

Fix that hotend cable routing, it cannot hang free like that, that is fuckin' terrible.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ender+3+cable+management

gl;hf

[Anonymous No.2593193]

>>2590451
I am a noob that wants to get into 3d printing and cnc milling, maybe lathes and lasers as well. I will hopefully turn it into a sort of business making custom shit but for now I just want to build parts and pieces that I can't find in stores.

what software would I want to start learning and which machines?

I've done a bit of research and people are shilling fusion 360 greatly and cheap chinese cncs but there are thousands of models and softwares out there i am paralysed by choice.

i must mention that I have fucked around with cad before but it wasnt anything serious

[Anonymous No.2593203]

>>2593184
Will do, many thanks. Also the guy said to use hair spray (laca in Spanish, idk the name in English) before printing to it's easier to remove. Is that a good way or are there any specific products for this?

[Anonymous No.2593211]

>>2593203
Specifics are gonna be regional, Aquanet is popular in places where it is available.
There are also purpose-made products, they cost more but work very well, like Bed Weld, Magigoo, Nano Polymer Adhesive...

Bed adhesion is a constant topic. I like PEI coated steel sheets, and plain glass, but it's preference. There are a LOT of options nowadays.
Plain glass sheets are cheap from the hardware store, $3-$10 USD depending on thickness of the glass.
PEI coated magnetic steel sheets are great, very nice to work with, for an Ender 3 they run ~$10-15USD from China.
Some folks still like plain sheets of PEI, rather than coated steel, price varies a LOT and they're somewhat easy to fuck/ruin, but god damn they work well.
G-10/FR4/Garolite sheets are getting popular, they do work well and can be inexpensive, but there are a LOT of options related to them; depending on your /diy/sticles you're looking at anywhere from <$10USD to >$50USD.
What you've got on there looks like a "textured" glass sheet. They're pretty solid, much better than the Buildtak sheets that some printers still come with. The thick glass is flatter, more rigid, and more dimensionally stable than an aluminum heatbed with a Buildtak sticker on it.

The MOST important thing for bed adhesion is cleanliness. You need to keep the bed clean. Every fingerprint, hair, spec of dust, it all makes adhesion a little worse.
Rubbing alcohol (isopropilico) is your friend, it's great for quick wipes with a dampened cloth/paper towel, avoid stronger solvents. If you ever need to seriously clean the bed, it's glass, you wash it like your dishes.

Avoid old dead methods, some people still buy new sheets of Buildtak (garbage), I still see people using painters tape (garbage), or sticking paper to the bed for printing Nylon (fun, stupid, use textured PEI). All this shit had a place somewhere in the last 15 years, but they're dead methods now and need to be left alone.

[Anonymous No.2593215]

>>2593203
glue stick

[Anonymous No.2593216]

>>2593193
>fusion 360
nearly full featured, free but awkward in some things and they fuck with you for being a hobbyist (free). great for everything from gears to cases, has patterns and other useful tools. however it's absoulte shit at imported stl files and bad at organic shit (actually sculpting)

it's free. fucking download it and join us.

[Anonymous No.2593218]

>>2593141
nice. PLA doesn't smell unless it's wood filament. my mini sits about 20" from my computer mouse. UV from a window might fuck up your PLA.

[Anonymous No.2593219]

Just had an idea
Can't you just chunk a glue stick in some 50% or 70% IPA and and a spray bottle to very thinly coat a bed in pva glue?

[Anonymous No.2593226]

>>2593219
PVA isn't actually soluble in isopropyl or ethanol, the water in rubbing alcohol is doing more of the work than the alcohol itself.

You'd be better off using distilled water, put it on the stove and get it hot but not boiling, 170-180F, chunk your glue stick into that and stir with a wire whisk until your arms are numb.
It will dissolve entirely, most glue stick they intentionally make even the additives water soluble for easy cleaning.
I've read that a mix of distilled water and methanol together works extremely well, but I've not tried it, and don't know the proportions. (probably mostly water)

[Anonymous No.2593229]

>>2593226
If you have a nice thick aqueous solution of gluestick, you could then cut it with some 92%-99% isopropyl to make for more effective wetting and faster flash-off when the bed is warming up.

I should probably go do this now, not because I need it, but because I want a little spray bottle of purple goo.

[Anonymous No.2593243]

>>2593193
>cheap chinese cncs
>which machines?
i'm also looking at people talking about how there are some great options but i open up aliexpress and it all just smells like cheap scam shit to me, so i'm echoing this request for info on these
does anyone have experience getting one of these that isn't a total housefire? i'm more than willing to upgrade and hack at shit like i did with my 3d printer to improve quality but i'd like it if the base machine functions without risk of arbitrary detonation

[Anonymous No.2593247]

>>2593243
>>2593216
also I've seen that youtube is full of people building their own machines and it should be too hard once you get a good understanding of what you want from such a machine.
but at firstI think I'll get a shitty one to get a feel for it and see how it operates.

>>2593216
I've seen people shill carbide as well. I've experience with tinker cad some 3ds max from years ago and a bit of autocad 2d from university, but again very limited.

so fusion 360 really is the go to for hobbyists aka diyer aka poorfags?

[Anonymous No.2593251]

>>2593247
>fusion 360
i've used onshape a fair bit and it's bretty good. but if you're a free user, your designs are published publicly by default... but i don't care so far if anyone sees my nipple piercing clamp designs, pci covers, or firearm holsters

[Anonymous No.2593254]

>>2593247
FreeCAD isn’t unusable if you’re on the spectrum.

[Anonymous No.2593257]

>>2593247
people will shill anything, have you heard of OnShape? Just try fusion 360 for fucks sake.

[Anonymous No.2593258]

>check craigslist
>dude has an ender 3 pro for $300
>he built it and can't be assed to plug it in

[Anonymous No.2593272]

>>2593219
>>2593226
>>2593229
Well that was fun.
5g Elmer's Purple Gluestick dissolved into 50ml distilled water (HOT, took >5 minutes stirring) then diluted with 50ml of 92% isopropyl alcohol.
Sadly, in this spray bottle, even though it's over 40% alcohol it's too thick to atomize and just fires a shot of purple snot.

Fun though, pictures don't do it justice. Before diluting it with the alcohol, it was a brilliant deep purple syrup, much darker than I expected.

[Anonymous No.2593275]

>>2593272
Image is misleading.
The goo is very transparent, but the bottle has a label on the other side of it so the goo appears opaque.

[Anonymous No.2593276]

>>2593258
probably something wrong with it and he's playing dumb like when someone sells something on ebay "as is" and says it's untested

[Anonymous No.2593279]

Whats the status on 3D printed firearms?
AFAIK glock frames are pretty EZ to 3d print for obvious reasons.

[Anonymous No.2593282]

>>2593272
Gonna try this too but use a full sized spray bottle, much more pressure and room for experimenting with dilution
Have the remnants of a mostly full large elemers stick in 100ml of hot water
Just gonna let the stirrer handle it

[Anonymous No.2593316]

>>2590451
I need to print an Albatross... For reasons.. The onyl decent model I could find is here:
https://open3dmodel.com/3d-models/lake-bird_482597.html

But how tf does this site work? I click "download link" but nothing happens.

Have any of you ever used this? I feel like a boomer opening a pdf

[Anonymous No.2593331]

>>2593279
In English, zoomer.

[Anonymous No.2593333]

>>2593219

[Anonymous No.2593343]

>barely do any cad
>mostly just retard level fixture shit and its all at work
>get used to solidworks because of this
>go home and try free hobbyist programs, but they're different and just aren't as easy
wat do? I hear the student version is being replaced with the 3DExperience which is apparently shit.

[Anonymous No.2593346]

This kinda hurts ngl
I pray it gets here in one piece
Also I hate my state

[Anonymous No.2593347]

>>2593316
Your ad blocker is hiding shit from you.
The site is garbage.
Here's your birb (duplicate links, they're one-time-use):
https://file.io/4cnAWE11zbg2
https://file.io/1r4C2LQior7D
https://file.io/KBwh27MudXaS
https://file.io/lVHNpRAbRI7M
https://file.io/3bQHTZfigkkH

[Anonymous No.2593348]

IT'S ALIVE...
THE T.D.P.F.E.V.S. M1
OR THE THREE-DEE PRINTER FUME EXHAUST VENTILATION SYSTEM MARK 1.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY POORFAG CUNT INDUSTRIES.
I ENDED UP ABANDONING THE CARDBOARD IDEA.
WENT WITH THIS INSTEAD.

PRINTING BALL JOINT DOLL RIGHT NOW.
GONNA PRINT SOME CAR HOSE MOUNTS I NEED NEXT, A USB ORGANIZER, AND PERHAPS SOME LEGO.
NEXT PROJECT IS FULLY MECHANICAL CLOCK.

FUME EXTRACTION WORKS GREAT
TESTED WITH MATCHES, AIR FLOW OUTSIDE IS STRONG ENOUGH TO PUT A BURNING CANDLE OUT AND SUCK ALL THE SMOKE AND ODOR TOK, I FIGURE IT'S GOOD ENOUGH.

[Anonymous No.2593358]

>>2593346
I regret getting the p1p instead of a regular X1

[Anonymous No.2593365]

>>2593358
p1p is alright if you exclusively print common materials.
If this printer otherwise didn't have to put in work printing nylon (and preferably printing multiple spools worth of material in one go) I would just get a p1p for personal use.

[Anonymous No.2593378]

>>2593346
Ouch, shoulda builta Voron!

[Anonymous No.2593388]

>>2593348
this post is boomer-energy as fuck
if you are actually under the age of 45, you are likely a mechanical engineering genius
if you are equal to or over the age of 45, good work carry on, which translates to: GOOD WORK... CARRY ON...

[Anonymous No.2593392]

>don't worry bro, 3mm magnets are all you need to hold a toolhead together

[Anonymous No.2593397]

>>2593348
Fully mechanical clock sounds cool

[Anonymous No.2593398]

>>2593388
I'M 21 BROTHER, BUT I APPRECIATE THE SENTIMENT, BLESS YOUR HEART.
I LOVE DOING THIS STUFF - MY OLD SHOP TEACHER WAS INTO LIVE STEAM ENGINES, AND THAT GAVE ME THE MECHANICAL BUG.

CHEERS AND GODSPEED!

>>2593397
I BUILT A TOURBILLON BACK IN 2017, BUT DIDN'T HAVE THE RIGHT SUPPLIES TO SET IT UP PROPERLY, THIS TIME, WILL BE BUILDING A FULL TIME-KEEPER WITH A WEIGHTS-BASED MOVEMENT

ALSO WANNA BUILD A LATHE OUT OF 3D PRINTED PARTS (FOUND A DESIGN), AND USE THAT FOR MACHINING A SECOND, BIGGER LATHE, MADE OUT OF METAL.

[Anonymous No.2593400]

>>2593398
brings a tear to my eye. the younger generations have a chance after all

[Anonymous No.2593405]

>>2593398
- BILL

--------
US Coastguard 98-98
Semper fi
NOTHIN LIKE GRILLIN, SON
John deere

[Anonymous No.2593406]

>>2593405
>NOTHIN LIKE GRILLIN, SON
ok but is this wrong?

[Anonymous No.2593407]

>>2593400
I TRY TO ARCHIVE AND DOCUMENT THE WAYS OF GENERATIONS PAST, LOST SKILLS/ CRAFTS / ARTS, OUR CULTURE, AND MORE IN ORDER TO DISSEMINATE THEM AMONGST MY ZOOMER KIN
I SEEK TO ENSURE THE CONTINUED EXISTENCE OF OUR TRADITIONS, SELF -SUFFICIENCY, AND LIFESTYLE FOR A THOUSAND YEARS MORE.

GONNA HAVE AT LEAST 5 KIDS AND RAISE 'EM RIGHT.
I'M GLAD I CAN INSPIRE HOPE IN YOU, BROTHER, IT'S AN HONOR.
NEVER SURRENDER.

CHEERS.

>>2593405
HEY BILL....
GLAD TO HEAR YOUR BACK IS BETTER..... STILL ON MY "ADVIL REGIMEN" HAR HAR....
LET ME KNOW IF YOU'RE STILL COMING TO THE BBQ ON SUNDAY......

-JOHN
1969-1973
U.S. INFANTRY 16TH RIFLE REGIMENT

[Anonymous No.2593412]

>>2593398
WHEN YOUR RIGHT ...... YOU'RE RIGHT .....

Sent from my iPhone using tapatalk

[Anonymous No.2593427]

Does anyone have experience with pic related? Can one make a business off this idea or is it too finicky to be worth it?

[Anonymous No.2593428]

>>2593427
People do write, anon, yes.
Booms have sold in the past.
I don't see why you wouldn't write it by hand, OR type it, but instead have something write for you, but to each his own.

[Anonymous No.2593430]

>>2593348
Fantastic!!

[Anonymous No.2593485]

Solidworks or Inventor. Discounting the price which one do I wanna try to learn as my first program?

[Anonymous No.2593498]

>>2593485
not inventor

[Anonymous No.2593524]

>>2593485
why not trying both, as a beginner I found solidworks the most welcoming but you may adapt better to Inventor's workflow
also just a personal opinion but fuck autodesk

[Anonymous No.2593537]

>>2593398
>ALSO WANNA BUILD A LATHE OUT OF 3D PRINTED PARTS (FOUND A DESIGN)
Incredibly based. What is the design you found? A quick search gave me this, which only mentions "some really soft metal".
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4319672

[Anonymous No.2593547]

>>2593347
thanks bro.

[Anonymous No.2593550]

>>2593485
openscad

[Anonymous No.2593572]

>>2593550
do you hate yourself

[Anonymous No.2593576]

>>2593347
>>2593316
Is there a way to reduce the polygon count of an stl file? I'd like to make this birb very blocky. I am mostly using openscad and freetard stuff.

[Anonymous No.2593581]

>>2593576
Sure, you're looking to reduce a mesh, which practically everything that can edit meshes can do.

This is /3DPG/ so I'm obligated to mention Meshmixer, but FreeCAD can do it.
Select the birb, go to Meshes, Decimating, select Reduction.
Try Meshmixer if you don't get the results you want, or Blender if you already have it installed.

[Anonymous No.2593609]

>>2593581
thanks bro

[Anonymous No.2593625]

>>2593581
>Meshmixer
if meshmixer were a pickup truck...

[Anonymous No.2593629]

>>2593581
>>2593625
meshmixerbros do you have an opinion on meshlab?

[Anonymous No.2593630]

>>2590669
Glass bed? I use a thin layer of glue stick, but the heat will cause that to dry quickly, and so hair spray can give it back some moisture and stickage.

[Anonymous No.2593639]

How to remove a heatbreak after a leak? Fire? The nozzle is out already.

[Anonymous No.2593642]

>>2593630
It was an issue with Cura slicing the model in a way that lends itself to fuckups, I solved it by sheer trial and error since I'm not going to print that model again any time soon.

[Anonymous No.2593643]

warframe released stl of a mask for their upcoming update
https://www.warframe.com/news/craft-your-very-own-customizable-duviri-paradox-mask

[None !P3141593qY No.2593649]

what options besides bambu do I have if I want a coreXY printer?

[Anonymous No.2593682]

>>2593649
If you want something just as cabable and better, a Voron 2.4

[None !P3141593qY No.2593700]

>>2593682
I don't have a 3D printer yet, though. I read you need to print some parts to build a Voron

[Anonymous No.2593749]

>>2593537
THANKS, FREN.
I WAS GOING TO DESIGN MY OWN PARTS, FOR THE MOST PART, GOING TO "BORROW" FROM THIS DESIGN:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFTKBYK-Bsc

IT'S A NICE LATHE, WITH METAL COMPONENTS.
IF IT DOESN'T WORK OUT, I WILL TRY MAKING MATTHIAS WANDEL'S WOODEN LATHE OUT OF WOOD, MADE WITH THE PARTS OF THE WOODEN LATHE AS IT'S IN PROGRESS.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCt3LooUVsQ

[Anonymous No.2593773]

>>2593700
Buy from Printing Service on Internet or go to your local library

[Anonymous No.2593786]

>>2593537
>>2593749
Guys take a look at these projects. These are CNC but can be build as manual also.
https://www.mycncuk.com/threads/14589-4th-axis-as-a-poor-man-s-lathe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0n1MOxol5Jw

[Anonymous No.2593789]

>>2593786
>two pillow blocks to stabilize shaft
THAT'S HONESTLY PRETTY BRILLIANT...
NO NEED FOR A BODY, CAN JUST BELT-DRIVE IT.
LOOKS LIKE MUCH OF IT IS OFF-THE-SHELF PARTS TOO.
QUALITY STUFF, METAL CONSTRUCTION, GERMANS!

But, very good. Extremely well-built for what it is. Although, probably at least $400 in parts to build.
MY BUDGET'S $50.
But thank you for sharing, fren. Saved the video onto my computer.

[Anonymous No.2593794]

>>2593700
>>2593773
The Voron Discord'd buy/sell section will probably have the best price on a printed parts kit, often with no wait.

[Anonymous No.2593816]

>>2593427
I had a printer plotter on my Commodore64. Had 4 different color pens. you can make a business doing twitch streams about how you're trying to make a business out of this dumb shit, t hat's for certain. as a side hustle sell the printed pen holder on etsy.

[Anonymous No.2593838]

>>2593816
You've inspired me.
I'mma take one of my old 3D printers and turn it into a pen plotter, add a feeder to automatically pull paper from a 12" roll.
Set up a raspberry pi to watch the current most-watched livestream on Twitch and draw it one frame at a time as quickly as possible.
Finished frames then feed directly into a paper shredder, and the next frame starts drawing. Adjust the speed to achieve that sweet, sweet 1/60th of a FPS.
The camera feed will be streamed 24/7/365, an automated livestream that only requires me to load a roll of paper weekly while I buy hookers and blow with that sweet Twitch and Youtube money.

I'll pay for ads to target people who consider themselves to be artists. You've made me a millionaire you retard. ©®™ Can't steal my idea now.

[Anonymous No.2593892]

>first layers barely visible
>paper test says bed is level
>when I pull the head up and extrude manually the flow is normal
I think I will just kms

[Anonymous No.2593959]

>>2593892
Happens to me, if you preheat it for too long, you can get some of the filament to retract too much / gravity extrude onto the floor or wherever.

Just make sure to start printing as soon as you finish preheating, OR, manually push a bit of filament through right BEFORE you start printing.
It's a bit tricky to do fast without disturbing the printer, but it's doable, and gives me great results.

Beyond leveling your bed, make sure your actual extruder's Z axis is properly calibrated.
Cheers and good luck.

[Anonymous No.2593984]

Is there a fan meta?
My hotend cooling fan broke, not sure if I should just buy a chinkshit replacement or if there's some kind of upgrade I could do rn.

[Anonymous No.2594029]

The F-35 of ender 3's continues. It's printing crazy reliable quality now, and it's quick. I haven't installed my z rails yet. Printing an ercf for the aliexpress kit I got now.

[Anonymous No.2594032]

>>2593892
Did you try the paper bag test?

[Anonymous No.2594039]

>>2593984
lm2596 buck converter for a massive silent pc cooling fan with big 3d printed adapter duct that melts when printing for more than half an hour

>>2594029
do you have rails under the bed too? how do they mount?

wonder if anyone has made a 3d printer motherboard with an sbc built in
or like a slot for a pi compute module

[Anonymous No.2594050]

>>2594039
dual rails on y mounted on the sides of the v rail with those twist nuts. It's gulf coast robotics kit, the z rails (not installed yet) are from 3Dfused.

[Anonymous No.2594109]

V1 and V2 of my RC car rear suspension hubs. Point of failure obvious in V1, layer split due to impact force when crashing. V2 uses screws and nuts in the same manner as pre-stressed concrete to keep the layers in compression at all times.

[Anonymous No.2594118]

>>2594109
Cool. Is the other side a potential weak spot? Even if not, I'd maybe want to put tensioning screws between the holes.

[None !P3141593qY No.2594129]

>>2593794
thanks, i'll check it out

[Anonymous No.2594133]

How do voron printed parts fare in an enclosure for ABS or nylon or whatever? I'd have thought that metal parts would basically be a rigidity requirement for decent speeds too. I've seen the horror pictures of prusa stepper mounts snapping.

I'm unironically considering doing an EDM conversion for my ender 3 so I can mill metal parts for a CNC machine.

[Anonymous No.2594152]

i recently got an ender 3 and im happy so far but its really loud. realistically the only thing i could do to amend this would be swapping the stepper motors for something better, assuming thats even possible. would that be feasible? i heard the V2 is quiet but is it significant? for reference, i have the printer standing badically next to me, maybe a meter away and thats as far as i can put it away save for putting in a different room entirely. could a cardboard box with foam padding do the trick? i tried dampening feet already but its not really the vibrations but the general motor noise that is bothering me.

[Anonymous No.2594157]

>>2594152
Wrong track fella, the steppers are noisy because of the drivers that control them, different motors won't be quieter.
"Good" drivers make for near-silent motors, you'd be looking at a new control board.
If that's intimidating, do not worry, any retard can do it. There are several drop-in boards that are made to be as easy as possible to install in your specific printer.
If you can piss in the bowl without needing someone else to hold your cock, then you can manage this.

Stepper drivers are by far the noisiest part of most printers that don't have "silent" drivers.
Once you have good drivers, the loudest things will be fans, the hotend fan and part-cooling fan are especially bad because they're small (high-pitched and obnoxious) and exposed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhbI1ouIlsU
Makes my skin crawl, I don't miss that noise and thankfully haven't had to hear it for several years.

[Anonymous No.2594160]

>>2593282
I definitely want to see how this has gone for you.
I think I've got too much iso in mine, some whiteness precipitates out overnight, but dissolves again by the time the shop gets above about 60F. Mixed it when the solution was at room temp, so I have to imagine it's the iso that causing it.
Hasn't separated though so that's good!

[Anonymous No.2594167]

I want to do a multicolor 3D print, but without all the transition tower bullshit.
Couldn't it very easily work this way:
>slice model with areas marked of different colors
>slicer gives you total length of filament needed
>let's say 6 meters
>of these 6 meters the first 2 are of color X, then there's 30 centimeters of color Y, then the rest is color Z
>you manually cut and fuse together the filament by yourself
>start print as usual

Wouldn't this be much simpler? is there such a way to turn your colored model into the separate lengths of filament that it needs?

[Anonymous No.2594169]

>>2594167
It can be done manually, but it's a massive pain in the ass, it is NOT an easy process.
You're talking about cutting and fusing a roll in reverse onto a spool. Fusing filament is a bitch, genuinely, it's one of those things that sounds like it'd be easy but then you go down the rabbit hole of struggles and products and fuck man it sucks fuckin' dick.

What you're describing is how the Mosaic Palette system works.
The Mosaic Palette does it all automatically, or at least that's the idea. I actually got to play with an OG Palette about 10 years ago.
They're unique, they're cool, they definitely work, but you pay to play and you end up stuck halfway into their ecosystem to make everything work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GI3y8hQrQw
Personally, I'd sooner look at the Enraged Rabbit Project, 100% DIY means it's 100% DIY-friendly, and I like doing things the hard way when I feel like it.

[Anonymous No.2594171]

>>2594169
>What you're describing is how the Mosaic Palette system works
Is it? Doesn't that Palette 3 line of products all create transition towers?
>Enraged Rabbit Project
Very interesting, thanks anon

[Anonymous No.2594172]

>>2594171
They create towers *if you so choose* because colors cannot change instantly in the same nozzle. There's a transition. That's what the tower is for, getting the last of the previous color out of the nozzle.

You can use any multi-material printer with little-to-no purging if you want, but the colors will just be a blended mess. Fun for an artsy effect but horrible for actual multi-color/multi-material prints.

[Anonymous No.2594174]

Speaking of multi-color prints, can someone explain to me how manually switching filament mid-print works? What kind of modification to the slicer settings or g-code is needed?

[Anonymous No.2594175]

>>2594171
>>2594172
I should add, there are other options depending on your goals.
IDEX printers have completely separate hotends, and if used correctly you can get away with little or no waste material at all.
Drawback being you're limited to the number of carriages, which is almost always going to be just 2, so only 2 colors or materials at a time.

Similar for dual-nozzle printers, limited to 2 colors, and usually more wasteful than an IDEX printer.

The fanciest, fastest, and least-wasteful setups are tool-changers and nozzle-changers, super cool but pricey, large footprints, the market is really competitive right now and competing products vary wildly in cost, design, and effectiveness, it makes it hard to point to them as a serious option for hobbyists, or anyone really, with the exception of the crazy high-end professional machines.
There are many out there though, cool stuff. Tool-changers are getting really attractive, but they're rarely compatible with bedslingers.

Can't not share the Swapper3D, so fuckin' majestic.

[Anonymous No.2594176]

>>2594175
>can only switch between 2 materials
>has a thousand spare hot-ends
wat

[Anonymous No.2594180]

>>2594176
Dual-nozzle and Idex printers can only switch between two materials, because only two materials can be loaded at a time.

That Swapper3D is meant to be paired with a MMU2, Mosaic Palette, Carrot Feeder, or other multi-material/single-nozzle setup to allow you to avoid purge blocks entirely, it just swaps the nozzle at the same time it swap the colors, so the nozzle is always primed with the correct color. Biggest downside, nozzles are out-of-play when not in the hotend, so you're waiting for it to heat up between color changes. It's not that significant, but it's a trade-off, it ends up not being significantly faster than just using a purge block, but at least you still save the otherwise wasted filament!

The reason for so many nozzles is to have a "catalog", not to use so many during printing!
You're still limited by your multi-material unit, Prusa MMU can switch between 5 filaments, the CoPrint up to 7, the Mosaic Palette up to 8, the ERCF up to 12 I think.
The "catalog" of 25 nozzles on the Swapper3D allows you to have nozzles dedicated to specific colors/materials, so when you change out the colors in your system you're not also having to swap out nozzles every time. It also gives you the option to maintain different nozzle size/color combinations. Say you've got 8 colors in your Mosaic Palette, you could have a 0.2, 0.4, and 0.6mm nozzle for *each* of your 8 materials all used in one print! It'd be a really fun one to slice for that's for damn sure.

[Anonymous No.2594181]

>>2594157
can i upgrade only the drivers themselves or do i have to go for a full board replacement? at ~$50 thats a pretty big cost when the entire printer only costs $170

[Anonymous No.2594184]

>>2594181
Ender 3, whole board.
$50 is more than you need to spend though if all you're looking to do is shut it up!

For the Creality branded option, definitely the most "plug and play,"
$37USD on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Ender-Pro-Silent-Mainboard-V4-2-7/dp/B08HRJD51Y

Or, go to China, get this better aftermarket board that's made specifically for your printer, and is currently <$30/shipped: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800863939920.html
It's not just silent, it's better in every way that matters.

[Anonymous No.2594196]

Do you guys sandpaper your PLA prints if you want a smooth surface? Does it work if surfaces are completely flat?

What sand paper grits should I use?

[Anonymous No.2594197]

>>2594180
Man you sure know a lot about those printers

[Anonymous No.2594204]

>>2594167
How does swapping between 2 colours actually work? I've not tried it yet but it would make something I was thinking of doing a lot easier. I wanted to print off a small JP style license plate keyring and have the text be different to the rest of the plate

[Anonymous No.2594210]

>>2594167
If you have time to watch over your print, you can cut the fillament as it approaches the part you want to switch and put in the next one (or you can add pauses before it switches to part you want) You can just feed/push fillament to extruder's hole as the cut one is still being fed. Once it bites the new fillament, the rest should be fine

You need to ensure switch is hapenning while it is printing somewhere not visible though

[Anonymous No.2594215]

>>2594196
PLA fucking sucks to sand. Fucking. Sucks.
But hey, people still do it, get on the Youtube and watch some cosplayers.
I mean that genuinely, of anyone they're gonna be the most experienced in it, and whatever "tips and tricks" they've got are probably worth hearing. I really truly hate sanding PLA.

>>2594174
>>2594204
The layer-swap is pretty easy depending on your printer!
The worst way to do it that most people try at least once, manually hit the pause button! Ideally when the nozzle is somewhere in the infill where it won't melt anything while you scramble to swap in the new color as quickly as possible. As a bonus, if it's over the infill like that, you can shove the new color through and purge straight into the infill until your new color comes through. Then, you hit resume.

All the Slic3r derivatives like PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, BambuSlicer, OrcaSlicer, all of which I highly recommend, they've all got the ability to select layer heights at which to pause! You can even add custom gcode right there in the slicer to move the print-head out of the way when it pauses to let you swap filament. Depending on your firmware and settings, your printer might actually do that on its own with Marlin's Advanced Pause feature. Point is, in the slicer you can specify one or more layer heights at which to swap filaments.
I assume other slicers like do this too, but Cura makes me vomit 2015 everywhere so I'm not certain.
The printer will pause, you do the swap, you hit resume, that's about it.
If your firmware is set up with certain features, it may even have a filament loading and unloading sequence. Gcode M600 and M603, standard shit your printer "probably" supports already, and can be added with customized firmware if it doesn't.

[Anonymous No.2594217]

>>2594210
Switching like that, I've had bad experiences with bowden extruders, but with a direct drive it's delightful.
I used to do it all the time on my workhorse 113860 running the tail-ends of spools, watching it intently as it chewed through cut-offs I'd steal by the bagful from the library. Their shitty printers had huge bowden tubes, so their "useless cut-offs" were often 4-5ft long.
Of course I couldn't reliably tell the ABS apart from the PLA and the HIPS. Fuckin' HIPS, I'm glad that shit isn't really around anymore.

[Anonymous No.2594218]

>>2594215
Cura actually has a "park print" feature to move extruder to a safe pos
Extensions > Post processing > modify gcode > pause at height

and there are a bunch of settings there

It also allows you to extrude some plastic before continuing, so it can discard remaining PLA with the old color

[Anonymous No.2594221]

>>2594218
Cura's usually pretty good in there somewhere underneath the surface.
It's the surface part that I hate.
The devs have made incredible contributions to 3D printing as a whole, especially relating to slicing.
I love hearing about new Cura features, because I know all I have to do is blink twice and they'll be in the beta version of PrusaSlicer and every other part of the slic3r family, where I can enjoy them without having to experience that UI and the pain it causes.

[Anonymous No.2594222]

>>2594215
I have an ender 3 so I can probably google if it supports stuff like that. I shouldn't need to purge much going from white to black at least. Going from black to white is a nightmare though if I ever wanted to do that on a small keyring thing I'd need to work something else out

[Anonymous No.2594229]

I am printing my part, 4th time is a charm amirite. send your energy /3dpg/

[Anonymous No.2594230]

>>2594222
Ah yeah, stock Ender 3 / Pro / V2 I know do NOT have Advanced Pause and Park Head enabled.
Don't know about later ones, there are so many fucking "Ender 3" models it's pretty retarded.

Still, you can implement it yourself manually, so to speak.
I know in the slicer's I use it's as easy as adding a little custom gcode.
I know off hand that in SuperSlicer you'll find Color Change and Pause Print gcode sections.
For totally stock Marlin like a normal Ender 3, you throw M25 in Pause Print, and then a little jog out of the way before pausing in Color Change.
Couple lines, easy,
G0 X{print_bed_min[0]} Y{print_bed_max[1]-10} Z{layer_z+3} F2000
M25
G0 X{print_bed_max[0]/2} Y{print_bed_max[1]/2} Z{layer_z} F2000

That's it, now the pause-at-layer feature works, no custom firmware, no funny business, just slicer settings.

[Anonymous No.2594233]

Are there visual gcode editors? Say I want to insert some custom gcode at some point during the print (and that point is not layer change, I can do that because finding layer changes in gcode is easy).

Something like that previews the print, and I can pause the preview and insert code at current location. Is there such a tool?

[Anonymous No.2594237]

>>2594233
Uh, yes. Your slicer.
I mean, PrusaSlicer SuperSlicer BambuStudio and OrcaSlicer all do that.
I don't know about Cura. It probably does, and it's probably hidden.

[Anonymous No.2594238]

3dpbros how can we cope knowing that we never gonna be as good as injection molding?

[Anonymous No.2594242]

>>2594237
it doesn't really allow me to edit gcode thou, just preview it. slicers I use supports "insert gcode at layer change" but not at specific parts during the print, while it is in mid layer

say I want to insert some gcode here. I could edit the gcode file manually using a text editor and insert code after that line (14586) and reload the gcode to prusa but I was hoping for a a tool that both previews and allows me to edit

[Anonymous No.2594243]

>>2594238
My cope is I hope our 3d printers will print just as smooth parts in 5 years and don't have the current limitations

[Anonymous No.2594244]

>>2594242
On your scroll bar for layer height, right-click, that's where you find what you're looking for.
Here, I made this for you.

[Anonymous No.2594246]

>>2594244
as I said, that insert code at a specific layer change. I can do that as well. Can you move bottom slider to here and make it insert code after that line 108730?

[Anonymous No.2594248]

>>2594229
you'll have a successful print, I know it!

[Anonymous No.2594250]

>>2594238
>requiring molds
tch, no way fag

[Anonymous No.2594251]

>>2594246
Not within the slicer, but if you want to get that specific with it, you're literally just writing text into a text file, and that slicer preview guides you to exactly the specific line you're looking for including the line number.
Open up your .g .gcode or whatever in notepad, Ctrl+G, line number, hit enter, you're there, start typing some Geee Code.

[Anonymous No.2594255]

>>2592932
>>2592948
>>2592951
Basically what the other anons said. It works mostly okish once you get used to it. ATM it still has a big bug which can destroy your models but it should be fixed in the next major release

[Anonymous No.2594267]

Has anyone ever had the problem that the M48 sometimes gives a completely different result between tests? I usually get a result of ~0.001-0.002, but sometimes it happens that the result is 0.01, sometimes even 0.02. I'm trying to determine if this is a software or hardware fault.
Ender 3 V2 with mriscoc firmware and BLTouch.

[Anonymous No.2594268]

>>2594160
It all dissolved
It sortve sprays, I diluted it heavily in 91% iso where it's a more transparent purple liquid.
It doesn't give like a one spray coverage to the entire bed but it is liquid enough where I can spread it out manually and once it dries it does leave a very thin layer.
I mostly like to print petg and just want the absolute best adhesion on glass and want the bare minimum for it to not fuse to it.

[Anonymous No.2594367]

I hate CURA so much it is unreal. For some reason sometimes it forgets my profiles and use old ones (I think it is because I made the mistake of creating an account and logged in). I didn't notice it reverting to my old profiles again and starting printed with an old/bad profile.

Now I am 6 hours in, with another 3-4 to go. I am not sure it will probably fuck it up at the end but I will still go through it.

There are probably 2 types of engineers at cura. Genius ones that did the core part of slicing and shitty ones that created all that buggy mess of UI on top of it

[Anonymous No.2594384]

>>2594367
Stop using it.
There are much, much better options now.
All the good bits of Cura are open source and are quickly added to better slicers with better interfaces that fucking work.

[Anonymous No.2594395]

>>2594169
Currently what I'm attempting to build for my supped up E3 neo. It looks like it will be a PIA to tune, and I might have to come up with a better hotend side runout sensor for my microswiss NG though. I have no clue how I'm going to get the filament to retract out of the hot end cleanly, let alone pass through my simple switch sensor and reload another.

[Anonymous No.2594402]

>>2594230
When a normal Ender 3 Neo pre-set is available for marlin I'll have to flash that onto it. I know the V2's only real difference is the bed + screen but I dunno if it will fuck up if I use that on the base neo with its different screen

[Anonymous No.2594420]

>>2594384
I am also trying prusa but imo its ui is even worse. With settings spread in lots of different windows, not being able to easily change a setting and hit slice etc. Cura settings have a search option and very good help popups, which makes it a better option for me at the moment

Plus there are some settings in cura that are not in prusa

Prusa has some very good features though, that is why I am planning to switch at some point.

Do you have other suggestions? Tried a couple other slicers but they seem to be just a prusa clone

[Anonymous No.2594431]

>>2594420
>Cura settings have a search option
So does Prusaslicer
That and superslicer have a decent interface I don't really understand your complaints. Cura tries to look nice and is cunt to actually use. Super/Prusaslicer is function over form

[Anonymous No.2594432]

>>2594420
PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer, BambuStudio.
All are derived from Slic3r.
Slic3r became slic3r++ and then PrusaSlicer, which is the basis for SuperSlicer and BambuStudio, and BambuStudio also incorporates some SuperSlicer features, and OrcaSlicer is built on top of BambuStudio with even more features from SuperSlicer on top.
So there you go.
You can customize the interface quite a lot in PrusaSlicer, but it's not well documented for whatever reason.
You can do even more in SuperSlicer, you can pick/choose/move damn near every button and box if you want to, rearrange menus, add new ones with the options you want together, etc.

For fuck's sake you can split the interface into separate windows if you want in PrusaSlicer and SuperSlicer.

[Anonymous No.2594435]

>>2594432
>>2594431
oh, I guess it has the features I felt missing after all. I will try to learn it more and will try super slicer. thanks

[Anonymous No.2594437]

>>2594432
How do you split plater window from others?

[Anonymous No.2594438]

>>2594420
>Plus there are some settings in cura that are not in prusa
No, there are some leftovers from when printers were made out of MDF and printed with trimmer line and HDPE/LDPE welding rods.
Switch to a real slicer. OrcaSlicer is getting really fuckin' good, but PrusaSlicer will have less of a learning curve and more community support.

[Anonymous No.2594440]

>>2594437
Preferences -> GUI -> Layout Options: Settings in non-modal window

[Anonymous No.2594460]

im only getting those squishes on one side, the other is pristine. it goes all the way up to the chimney as well

[Anonymous No.2594465]

>>2594460
also, i just finished this print and wanted to start the next but suddenly the nozzle wont reach the plate. i releveled it with the paper test and theres still a huge gap when it starts printing. could the model file have something off?

[Anonymous No.2594468]

>>2594465
tried a different file and it works fine. the file thats causing issues also changed the bed and nozzle temp. ill use a different file for that model for now but how can i avoid running into this issue in the future? strip any presets off the file?

[Anonymous No.2594475]

Whew... finally finished. Glass bed and hair spray really helps a lot. Just soldering work to finis and clean that hair spray

[Anonymous No.2594476]

>>2594432
which one has those new tree supports?

[Anonymous No.2594528]

>>2594476
Bambu and Orca have proper tree supports, the current dev build of Prusa have their new organic tree supports that people are shit-hot about.

[Anonymous No.2594531]

>>2594475
Neat

[Anonymous No.2594552]

>>2593639

help, it is mostly pla

[Anonymous No.2594568]

>>2594468
>>2594465
seems its the printer preset in slic3r that is outta whack. my cura sliced files work fine but the slic3r files dont.

[Anonymous No.2594572]

>>2590451
is freecad good enough for cnc machining and 3d printing?

the main challenge would be turning the 3d file into cam and subsequently into g-code, afaik other tools have dedicated plugins for this

[Anonymous No.2594578]

>>2590451
What "industry" should I choose when making a Thingiverse account? The choices are:

>Education
>Commercial/Professional
>Maker/Consumer

Do I get limitations if I pick Maker/Consumer?

[Anonymous No.2594586]

the print summary in slic3r is showing empty for any file i use. havent found anything online, anyone know why this happens?

[Anonymous No.2594603]

>>2594039
>wonder if anyone has made a 3d printer motherboard with an sbc built in
>or like a slot for a pi compute module

I believe makerbase does something like what you are talking about, I remember this one it connects to the board via gpio

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804323039950.html

Mellow 3d printing has a place you can mount SBC ontop of course its mainly for RPI or any SBC that has mount dimensions as a RPi.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804305416750.html

IDK if thats what you are looking for.

[Anonymous No.2594633]

Anyone seen the Annex Engineering K3 before? Prints real fucking fast. There's a BOM on their github, but without prices listed. Anyone who's built similar projects have any idea what the end cost would be like?
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oXqvtk06rsHcD06igabW3sL7RkIG_uLstGmKU9D9Gv8/htmlview#

>>2594603
Very cool, yeah the GPIO header is the other thing that makes sense.

[Anonymous No.2594636]

>>2594633
That is my next build. Not until July though, I am moving near the end of June. I have a voron trident and v0.2 and I like them. I am really interested in the cross gantry setup.

[Anonymous No.2594672]

Page 7 just can't come soon enough.

[Anonymous No.2594675]

>>2594672
Cool

[Anonymous No.2594848]

>>2594238
My cope is speed and cost. Feels pretty good desu

[Anonymous No.2594850]

>>2594460
You need better cooling, my boy.

[Anonymous No.2594851]

>>2594238
>artifacts are feature!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIanWhvsWMc
just saw this today, holy cope

[Anonymous No.2594857]

>>2594851
not gonna watch the video, since i can guess what he says, but as long as the lines dont impede the function of the part i dont even care
i want to make things that are useful, not things that look nice

[Anonymous No.2594860]

>>2594857
>coping continues
kek. He claims lines are basically "a texture" and says injecting molding is smooth because it can't have textures. So according to him lines are kinda a feature of 3d printing and injecting molding lacks that feature?

Which is retarded because injecting molding can have textures/bumps/indent on its surface. Just not very deep ones

[Anonymous No.2594861]

>>2594851

[Anonymous No.2594862]

>>2594860
>injecting molding is smooth because it can't have textures
thats just wrong
>coping
im not saying i dont want smooth prints, i just dont think its a requirement for 3dp to be useful

[Anonymous No.2594879]

>>2594672
>page 7
>when the thread will take another two full days to archive after that
wait for page 10

[Anonymous No.2594887]

Wish prusa gave better control for brims. Like how you can block or force supports.

It creates these tiny brims and also brims under holes (they are not really holes, they are lift a bit or has an empty side. so brim inside holes does not catch them)

[Anonymous No.2594904]

What is the max extrusion width I can do with a 0.4mm nozzle?

[Anonymous No.2594923]

>>2594904
999mm

[Anonymous No.2594925]

is there anything more cunt than companies selling translucent white as real white? fuck you assholes.

[Anonymous No.2594937]

>>2594925
everything is translucent if thin enough

[Anonymous No.2594959]

Assembled the first leg for my quadruped robot. Quite happy with it.

[Anonymous No.2594979]

Can I get a qrd on the different stepper drivers and their advantages? Why does klipper only works with some drivers? And also, what's the difference in price concretely between top/low end?

[Anonymous No.2594982]

>>2594979
from what I know
a4988 - cheap and reliable, loud as fuck
tmc2209 - price/features king
TMC5160 - great but fucking expensive

[Anonymous No.2594983]

>>2594937
this shit is translucent on the fucking spool m8, I just didn't think about the flushed infill shitting this up. this is .20mm my last white is right next to this and is solid af at .10mm I just didn't want to run out so I swapped to the new roll. stop being a nigero pls.

[Anonymous No.2594985]

>>2594672
could you be a little more autistic please?

[Anonymous No.2594986]

>>2594578
I'm a professional,
you're a consoomer
education is for pedos and groomers.

[Anonymous No.2595004]

>>2594879
See if I do that then someone else makes it while it's still on page 8.
It's a race where we all lose even when we win.

[Anonymous No.2595019]

files sliced with slic3r all dont work. they dont even stick to the surface and it seems like the nozzle is always way to high even though i set it to go as low as possible. with cura i dont have to do anything and every print works right off the bat.
i configured slic3r as best as i could for my printer but i just cant get it to work.
im reading that i should get prusa slic3r instead, would that make any difference?

[Anonymous No.2595021]

>>2595019
check if bed temp etc are the same as cura. cura default is 60 i think, while slic3r is 55

[Anonymous No.2595024]

>>2595019
You need to compare gcode files produced by each slicer and figure out what's going on in your startup gcode that is different.
Z height offset, enabling bed leveling correctly, disabling software endstops as a hacky way around certain shit, there's lots of crap that is likely different.

Also, why are you using Slic3r at all?
It hasn't had a proper release in almost 5 years now, it was the basis for tons of other projects that have vastly exceeded it.

PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, BambuStudio, OrcaSlicer
These are all anyone should be using for FDM printing unless you really, really like Cura's terrible interface.

[Anonymous No.2595027]

>>2595019
>>2595024
Better yet, share.
Go slice a calibration cube in Cura and another in your other slicer, toss each Gcode file into a separate pastebin, share them.
I'd be happy to take a look for anything distinct.

[Anonymous No.2595039]

>>2595027
Slic3r: https://pastebin.com/9YXFZt7x
Cura: https://pastebin.com/wttFAzk2

[Anonymous No.2595046]

>>2595039
First off, the Cura file has an M82 to set it to absolute extrusion mode, the Slic3r file doesn't have an M82 or M83 specifying extrusion mode.
It would be good to add an M82 to the startup gcode given that it is slicing for absolute extrusions by default.
Or, you can turn on relative extrusions, in which case it will set M83 on its own.

Doesn't matter though, your slicer gcode contains no extrusions at all, none.
Make sure you Gcode Flavor in Printer Settings -> General is set to RepRap(Marlin/Sprinter) and no "No Extrusion".

You really, really shouldn't use Slic3r, it's long since dead and all the good parts served as the basis for several other significantly better slicers.
It doesn't have any support for modern features, it doesn't actually correctly support modern Marlin gcode, it's extremely outdated.

[Anonymous No.2595048]

>>2595039
Yup, I can see it in the settings listed in your Slic3r gcode.

; gcode_flavor = no-extrusion

Fix that.

[Anonymous No.2595050]

>>2595039
NTA but nearly every setting is different, although it looks like slic3r should have perform better
>higher bed temp
>higher temp
>thicker first layer

[Anonymous No.2595052]

>>2595050
>>2595048
You'll also note that there are no extrusions.
>; gcode_flavor = no-extrusion

[Anonymous No.2595056]

>>2595052
what does it do? i see no E... in gcode, how printer knows how much to extrude?
although there are
>G1 X96.412 Y94.115 2.00000
is 2.0 E axis? what does 2.0 mean? it seems to be always 2

[Anonymous No.2595062]

>>2595056
The 2.0 is NOTHING. It's NOTHING ignore it.

>>2595046
Doesn't matter though, your slicer gcode contains no extrusions at all, none.
Make sure you Gcode Flavor in Printer Settings -> General is set to RepRap(Marlin/Sprinter) and no "No Extrusion".

Now delete Slic3r and download PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, or OrcaSlicer.

[Anonymous No.2595064]

>>2595056
There's no E because you have it turned off entirely, you're in "DON'T PRINT ANYTHING NO EXTRUSIONS AT ALL" mode.|

You need to set the gcode flavor to match your printer, which if you don't know is almost certainly RepRap(Marlin/Sprinter).
Then it will generate extrusions, E movements.

[Anonymous No.2595065]

>>2595064
I am not the OP

OP said it didn't stick, not it didn't extrude anything. that is why I was wondering how it decided how much to extrude

[Anonymous No.2595066]

>>2595065
It didn't, it was heating the hotend and not extruding, so it was just oozing. That's all it was doing, dribbling.

[Anonymous No.2595071]

>>2595066
ah I see, thanks for the explanation.

[Anonymous No.2595073]

>>2595071
no problem fren, go print a thing

[Anonymous No.2595086]

Can I heat my bed to some high temps, leave my flat surface print there for a few minutes (perhaps with slight weight on top?) and expect it to be smoother?

Ironing works but it still leaves some marks, especially if it jumps from one place to another and then come back

[Anonymous No.2595109]

>>2595086
Maybe? This is a neat idea.
If you have a glass bed, I could see this working for PLA prints getting the bed up to 75 - 100C.
Would be fun to experiment with smoothing surfaces or annealing thin prints on a print bed this way. Finish print, flip it, add second glass sheet with a little weight on it, run the thing through an automated thermal cycling where it heats the bed to higher temps and holds it for awhile then very slowly lets it cool down.

It wouldn't be a very versatile method but it might be legitimately useful for some shit.

[Anonymous No.2595223]

>>2595086
you going to get your bed above 190ºC?

[Anonymous No.2595233]

>>2595223
For the vast majority of PLA, the Vicat softening temp is around 60-65C, and the actual melting point is in the 150-160C range. Annealing is usually done around 90C.

Plenty of beds can get to 120C, I think anything above 80 may be enough to do something interesting.

[Anonymous No.2595246]

>>2594475
the fuck is that?

[Anonymous No.2595250]

printed the final-ish case. I hate those ironing marks but it will do for now.

well, back to programming. I will need a main menu to select games

[Anonymous No.2595279]

>>2595250
Nice, that's very clean inside for this type of project.

[Anonymous No.2595320]

Le fishe

[Anonymous No.2595322]

>>2595320
Le fishe au tongue

[Anonymous No.2595333]

>>2595322
Had to go and make it sexual.
Good work anon.

[Anonymous No.2595336]

Is SLA printing outside enough to help with ventilation, or is it bad enough i should get/make an enclosure or use other precautions when printing?
I don’t fully understand how dangerous the particulates or other issues with SLA printing is besides keeping it away from skin and don’t breath the fumes.

Side question - how effective can PLA printers be for batch printing TTRPG minis?

[Anonymous No.2595344]

>>2595336
Off skin, out of your eyes, don't breath the fumes.
That's about it. Biggest problems are respiratory and contact dermatitis. Particularly annoying is that you can develop sensitivity to it gradually, sometimes slowly, sometimes quickly. You might be totally fine slathering your whole body in resin one day, then the next day a drop on your skin leaves an inflamed blister and it hurts to breath. Pretty gay.
Just do your best to be safe with it to decrease the chances of it later becoming unpleasant or challenging to work with.
Gloves are the bare minimum, a face mask is a good addition but honestly if you're working outside I don't know if I'd go that far. Some people like face *shields* or safety goggles because they fear getting splashed in the face or eyes, fair enough.
Printing outside is super safe AF, that's more than enough ventilation.


> PLA printers for batch printing TTRPG minis?
> FDM* printers for batch printing TTRPG minis?
Compared to SLA/MSLA/DLP ? Fucking hot garbage compared to a resin printer. I mean, they're great and yes you can absolutely go small nozzle and do really impressive miniatures with an FDM printer. It's just absolutely no comparison to a resin printer for that specific purpose. Orders of magnitude higher detail, and large batch printing can take literally no extra print time.
Print time on a resin printer is based on height, there's a certain amount of time it times to do *every* layer past the first few, so overall height defines print time.
If you can fit 30 things of the same height on the plate side by side, they'll print just as fast as one would.
FDM printers are not like that at all, it's a relationship between volume, height, cross-sectional area, perimeter length for a given layer, for something like "batch printing minis" it'd be a downright bad choice.

[Anonymous No.2595349]

If I start my printer cold, it prints perfectly even with 0.12 layer height for the first layer.
However, if I start it with a high bed temperature (I usually use about 80 for PLA) it seems to fail at printing the first layer, missing lines and spaghetting and so on.
I can only imagine that's because of thermal expansion fucking up my calibrations in some way. Is there a simple fix for it using Klipper? I can't be the first bloke to run into this, right?

[Anonymous No.2595353]

>>2594959
very nice, anon. You could use some calibrations. though.

[Anonymous No.2595360]

>>2595320
>>2595322
Nice print anon currently printing this Conan statue myself.

[Anonymous No.2595362]

>>2595349
You do your leveling when everything's hot?
PID tune your bed if you haven't recently, assuming you had PID enabled for your bed heater.
Poor bed PID tuning can make for significant and continuous movement of the bed, like slow breathing, that really fucks with leveling.
Do your leveling, whether manual or totally automated, with everything already up to temperature.
If you have to worry about drips/dribbles, run the nozzle as hot as you can without it being a problem.
Leveling should always be done when your bed is at temp.

If you are doing that already, then your issue is something else I assume!

[Anonymous No.2595392]

>>2594578
>Do I get limitations if I pick Maker/Consumer?
Yes, they double the price for all prints

fr though, it's just datamining. Maybe they'll show you different Ultimaker adverts and send you different promotional emails but that's about it.

[Anonymous No.2595405]

>>2595246
Thanks doc

[Anonymous No.2595442]

HELP, Cura's going nuts
>create profile for miniatures
>thinner layers, slower print speed, the works
>do my miniature related jobs
>time passes
>time to print something else, let's use a different profile
>...
Long story short everything prints with the settings of the minis profile: slow, 0.1 layer height etc even though the profiles I'm using now are different.
I literally deleted the miniatures profile, closed Cura, launched it again, opened up a new model, set it up with the normal profile for my printer (0.2 layer height, fast speed) and it says it'll be done in 14 minutes.
50 minutes later and it's STILL printing, clearly with the Jerk and Acceleration options of the miniatures profile, and clearly at 0.1 fucking layer height.

What the fuck is happening here? Did that one profile infect my printer? Is Cura going batshit insane?

[Anonymous No.2595448]

>>2595442
>Normal Cura things.


>>2595024
>PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, BambuStudio, OrcaSlicer
>These are all anyone should be using for FDM printing unless you really, really like Cura's terrible interface.

[Anonymous No.2595449]

>>2595448
Weirdass greentext aside, which one's the better one?
I like Cura because I'm using the X-mas Alpha version that has the better tree branch supports, but goddamn it's one fuckup after the other

[Anonymous No.2595450]

>>2595448
>PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, BambuStudio, OrcaSlicer
idk anon, I used SuperSlicer for like 2 years and it's definitely flimsier than Cura. Besides, Cura has cloud backup which is super nice since >>2595442 can be solved by simply restoring an old backup. SuperSlicer struggles to even export/import configs. Honestly, I miss SuperSlicer's profile organization but there's 0 chance I'll revert back anytime soon since I like having shared configs between the different computers I use.

>>2595442
Cura has some unintuitive things such as Material Config Overrides that you migh have set up. Although, given >>2595449, it might just be some beta thing. Did you try using a non-beta version?

[Anonymous No.2595453]

>>2595449
PrusaSlicer has large community support, it's well maintained and updated frequently, the current 2.6 alpha features their new organic supports and all recent versions support arachne slicing.

SuperSlicer is a modified version of PrusaSlicer that's less frequently updated but has numerous features that PrusaSlicer lacks.
It's a somewhat more feature-rich PrusaSlicer, but a lot of it is fine tuning, little stuff for power users.
I think for most folks, it really wouldn't be better than PrusaSlicer, just more shit they can't take advantage of or fuck themselves with.

BambuStudio is also based off of PrusaSlicer, interface is organized differently, overall there's not much else to say to it.
It's solid.

OrcaSlicer is based off BambuStudio, PrusaSlicer, and SuperSlicer.
It's easy to paint it as "the best" of the Slic3r family, it's certainly the newest legitimate addition that's worth trying.
That said, while it's still fairly new, it's a great starting point. Prusa/Super/Bambu are all directly related, so pulling good bits together and working from there sure sounds like a good plan.
I'm very happy with it so far, but I've only been using it for a few months, first release was just last July, but so far I'm very happy with it.

[Anonymous No.2595456]

>>2595453
Thanks for the rundown, anon

[Anonymous No.2595457]

>>2595450
>I like having shared configs between the different computers I use.
Me too, that's why I use the datadir setting to save all the profiles and shit in the install directory, which is on a network drive.
That way everything's shared across all my computers and OS's'ss

[Anonymous No.2595460]

>>2595457
Actually I forgot it does this by default now if you make a directory named configuration.
PrusaSlicer and SuperSlicer support this, I don't know if it's still present in BambuStudio and OrcaSlicer.

[Anonymous No.2595511]

my ender 3 finally died after years of service, i'm looking to replace it
how hard would it be to adapt a voron / reprap kit to have a wide bed (400mm+)
would i be better served by a chinese clone?

[Anonymous No.2595512]

>>2594118
I have so far had zero failures on the upper pivot point strangely, I think it has to do with the nature of the forces applied. The direct impact force from crashes is (almost) always going to affect the lower pivot first since it’s closer to the tire’s contact patch. I’m actually hoping that if I do get a failure of the V2 hub, it’ll be at the upper pivot so I know my screws worked.

[Anonymous No.2595514]

>>2594118
Addendum, the upper holes are also being clamped by a nut and bolt that go through the holes to attach the suspension link to the hub. Picrel is the older design but the upper half is the same for both versions in this regard.

[Anonymous No.2595515]

>>2595511
>my ender 3 finally died
like,the whole thing? Did it catch on fire or something?
if the mobo died it's like 30$ to fix.

[Anonymous No.2595517]

It does not take much carbon filament to wear down these nickel plated copper nozzles despite the plating being advertised as hardened.

[Anonymous No.2595518]

>>2595514
This is good shit anon.

>>2595511
It's not terribly difficult, but you shouldn't do it.
The Voron designs don't keep up well when made to greater size, they're not intended for it, you start running into issues and have to keep your speeds down, ruins the point of the Voron. 350mm is about the limit for Voron. People do go bigger, but you should know what you're getting.
To try to keep up, you need thicker extrusions and redesigning parts, but even then you're chasing the dragon.
CoreXY in general is flawed in such a way that larger sizes make it worse. At sizes within the limitations, it's excellent, but the bigger you go the more you trade off.
For large format shit, cartesian makes way more sense, CoreXY doesn't scale well, the longer your belts the more problems it creates.

So yes you can, hell you can buy 500mm frame kits, but don't expect the full "Voron experience" and a 9 minute Benchy. If you're good with that, go for it.

A Chiron gets you 400x400x450mm for a decent price, but it's just a huge bedslinger.
Similar would like a CR-10 S5, a full 500mm^3 bedslinger.
Few bucks more gets you into TronXY territory, the X5SA is a big bitch. It'll never be a real Voron, which is perfect if you buy it for the size alone and enjoy tinkering with Chinesium.

[Anonymous No.2595523]

>>2595515
recurring problems with the extruder and z stepper, thought about refurbishing it, but i need a printer for parts

>>2595518
i'm not after speed, main concern is print surface, i'm printing wide but short spars
dual extruder would be massive

[Anonymous No.2595545]

>>2595518
Aren't all 3D printers cartesian? Do you mean crossed-gantry? Or xyz hot-end?

[Anonymous No.2595547]

Is there some kind of list of all the different kinematics FDM printers use and have used? I've been thinking of something and I want to see if its already been tried before.

[Anonymous No.2595550]

>>2595545
Cartesian is often used to describe printers that use separate motors for each axis, in distinct contrast to CoreXY.
A CoreXY still operates within cartesian coordinates, unlike a Delta. You could argue that CoreXY, H-Bot, Bedslingers, and SCARA arms are all "cartesian".
Yeah you're right, it's shitty terminology.

[Anonymous No.2595556]

>>2595550
Well the only advantage of CoreXY is that the motors themselves aren't part of the moving mass, right? So with a heavier gantry that doesn't matter nearly as much. Unless you're making a printer with CFRP linear rails, that could be cool.

[Anonymous No.2595558]

>>2595547
I mean, every arrangement/combo of mill has been used, delta bots including funny suspended ones like hangprinter, various SCARA arms, full robotic arms, there's Ultimaker with their crossed rods (I'd love to see someone do this with linear rails), H-Bots, CoreXY, polar printers where the print bed spins (vase mode king?), belted printers, and that's before you get into 4 and 5 axis machines.

Am I missing anything here as far as FDM is concerned?

[Anonymous No.2595565]

>>2595558
I see, I guess the best thing to do is describe what I've been thinking of.
>>2595547 (Me)
Basically, I was wondering how effective combining two CoreXY systems into a single CoreXYZ one would be, in this case a CoreXZ-YZ, where the X and Y are the "slide across the beam" motion and the Zs are the "beam slides across the gantry" motion. The toolhead then rides both the X and Y beams, like I've seen in a few other printers.
Picrel, excuse the autism.
It's probably not going to be the best system in any way, but I was wondering if its viable in any way.

[Anonymous No.2595569]

>>2595565
I don't see any reason it wouldn't work, just don't see any reason to do it this way, it's just lots of extra work and parts for nothing in return.
Two switchwire z-axis driving a single ultimaker style cross-beam head.
It'd be neat, that's for sure.

[Anonymous No.2595576]

>>2595569
>just don't see any reason to do it this way
My "goal" was to have a static bed, allowing for ECM/EDM and/or 5 axis modifications, to keep the X/Y movement as light as possible, as well as having a decently fast Z, all while keeping all motors stationary and using as few of them as I could. And having a frame rigid enough to be useful: The belts that I drew are located at one side of the machine, but it would make more sense to either position them in the center, or double them up and join them through an axle, still powered by the same motors. This, in theory, could improve the rigidity of larger printers, since every gantry would be moved from both sides.
>it's just lots of extra work and parts for nothing in return.
More or less, yeah. Maybe there's a niche that this design could fit, but for most printers it's not worth it.

[Anonymous No.2595582]

How tight should the BLTouch set screw be?

[Anonymous No.2595586]

>>2595576
>My "goal" was to have a static bed
Okay I can see where you're going with this, could be cool.

[Anonymous No.2595613]

>>2595565
You're going to need fuckhuge belts and you'll also have to change them constantly
is it worth it?

[Anonymous No.2595614]

So basically if you value speed it's
>COREXY > Delta > Cartesian

and if you value precision it's
>COREXY > Cartesian > Delta

right?

[Anonymous No.2595615]

>>2595613
>but for most printers it's not worth it.

[Anonymous No.2595616]

>>2595615
>for most printers
the hell does that mean

[Anonymous No.2595623]

>>2595614
> if you value precision it's
> Cartesian.
Your CAD software doesn't design in CoreXY coordinate space. Your slicer doesn't slice into CoreXY coordinate space.

[Anonymous No.2595625]

>>2595623
what is this post trying to say

[Anonymous No.2595627]

>>2595625
You design a model, it's represented with cartesian coordinates.
You slice it, it's turned into a huge series of movements in cartesian coordinate space, represented by a huge list of cartesian coordinates.
You print it, your printer takes those coordinates, and directly translates them into movements at the axis.
100mm along the x-axis in CAD is the same as 100mm along in the x-axis in a gcode file and it's the same 100mm that your firmware will ask of your x-axis motor which will move your x-axis 100mm.
It's a direct linear relationship from start to end, and it translates into the real world flawlessly.

CoreXY, all the same until it hits the printer.
Then, it takes those cartesian coordinates, and uses an algorithm to translate them into the rotated CoreXY coordinate space in order to command the motors.
There is no direct relationship between a given coordinate in the real world and that same coordinate represented in CoreXY.

It will always be less precise, there will always be loss, rounding errors.
Picrel, those formulas, that's why CoreXY printers can't compete when it comes to precision.
In the real world, the differences are tiny, you lose more precision to G2/G3 arcs than to CoreXY kinematics.

[Anonymous No.2595628]

is it possible to use one model to cut a negative into another model? i know this works with cura but i cant figure out how to do it in prusaslicer.
i have a little keyholder plate with hooks on but no screw holes. i took a file for a countersunk wood screw and wanted to use it as a cutting tool on the keyholder so that i can cut a screw shaped hole in it.

[Anonymous No.2595631]

>>2595628
PrusaSlicer and SuperSlicer, you want a negative volume.
You can right click on a part, and go to "Add Negative Volume," then choose a default shape, or load a file.
Alternatively, if you have two models in the slicer and merge them, you can then change one to a negative volume.

This video shows both.

This is particularly useful for designing complex negative volume, support modifiers, anything like that.
You can design them in your CAD software, export it all together as a merged model, then individually change pieces to modifiers in the slicer while it's all already perfectly aligned. Fun stuff.

[Anonymous No.2595632]

>>2595627
Right, and I'm guessing it's the same game with Delta printers

[Anonymous No.2595634]

>>2595631
based webm tutorial poster

[Anonymous No.2595635]

>>2595632
Bingo. Again, it's not ACTUALLY a big deal though, at all.

[Anonymous No.2595636]

>>2595635
The calculations must slow down the printer's board somewhat though. It'd be better to run the entire coordinate-conversion process somewhere outside like on a PC or a Basedberry PI

[Anonymous No.2595637]

>>2595636
Great idea, let's make a new firmware that does that. We'll call it "Klipper".

[Anonymous No.2595639]

>>2595637
Why use that when Repetier exists

[Anonymous No.2595640]

>>2595639
It's a little out-of-date.
I prefer to just translate gcode files directly into complete arduino sketches, firmware was only ever a middle-man.

[Anonymous No.2595642]

>>2595442
Same anon here, I'm telling you Cura fucked with my printer.
I installed PrusaSlicer (great interface by the way), set all my shit up, and it's still printing way slower than it's supposed to.
I set it at 170mm/s (my printer can take it). The display on the printer SAYS it's going at 170mm/s but I fucking know what 170mm/s looks like and that ain't it. It's like 80mm/s max

what the fuck happened here

[Anonymous No.2595643]

>>2595642
1) What's the printer?
2) Run an M503 and pastebin the results.

[Anonymous No.2595645]

>>2595643
1) FLSUN Super Racer
It seems to me like the Jerk and Acceleration settings that I changed in Cura when I made the slower profile stayed. It's acting very "smoothly", clearly with a jerk setting preventing it from going fast

2) What's that? Do I just add M503 to my starting Gcode of any print? What's it supposed to do?

[Anonymous No.2595652]

>>2595645
You'd generally have to connect the printer to a computer with a USB cable and send the command from a terminal or printer controller.
It retrieves your firmware settings, all of them.
picrel is an example of an M503 result from one of my shitbox printers.
Unfortunately it doesn't save to the SD card or anything like that, just spits it out over the serial connection.

Yes, it sounds like your Jerk, Acceleration, or Junction Deviation got messed with.
It's also possible your Max Acceleration was changed.
Some printers support "silent" or "stealth" mode, it's just firmware shit so it's possible the Super Racer has such a thing, I wouldn't know. Worth knowing for sure.

It's possible your "fast" profile isn't actually putting the right commands to set your accel/jerk/etc in your gcode. You might share a sliced gcode file, that'd show me your Cura settings at least.

Ideally, I'd highly recommend just not using Cura. That's always the best solution for Cura related issues.

[Anonymous No.2595653]

>>2595652
Right now I've used the Restore feature on the printer's display. I've leveled it all over again and will now try to print once more.
If the issue still presents itself then I'll try to figure out how to get this log going
>Ideally, I'd highly recommend just not using Cura. That's always the best solution for Cura related issues.
Yeah I'm starting to see that

[Anonymous No.2595654]

>>2595631
i got it to work, but i was this close to just drill the holes in afterwards. is there a way to enable angle snapping when rotating a part in prusa slicer? you cant slice or lay a negative part down on its face. you have to rotate manually. and they couldnt have made it any more annoying than what they did with having the rotation point be at odd angles instead of the regular xyz arrows

[Anonymous No.2595660]

>>2595652
>>2595653
aaaand it's back!
Restoring did it. I'm now dealing with a bunch of adhesion issues (and also having to get used to the new slicer in general) but it's back to being lightning fast.
Man, Cura... shit'll fuck you up

[Anonymous No.2595661]

>>2595654
The white lines that appear when you go to rotate something are you snapping points. Snapping is always enabled and functions in 45, 10, and 5 degree increments.

Those weird off-axis arrows were showing the coordinate space of the merged model.
The "Merged" unit has a given location and rotation, and the models within "merged" have their own location and rotation relative to that "Merged" position. That can make merging and/or unmerging models you're moving around without paying attention to what you're doing can lead to funny situations like your screenshot there.

[Anonymous No.2595663]

>>2595661
oh, you have to hover the mouse directly over the line to get it to snap. if you are outside the white cirlce it wont snap on and give you way to fine increments

[Anonymous No.2595664]

Hmm, I'm trying to paste this starting Gcode from Cura to PrusaSlicer

G21 ; millimeter units
G90 ; absolute coordinates
M82 ; E absolute
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M109 S{material_initial_print_temperature}
G28 ; home axis
M420 S1 ; enable mesh leveling
; Lower nozzle and move to start position
G1 Z150
G1 X-130 Y0 Z0.4 F3000
; Extrude about 40 mm by printing a 90 degree arc
G3 X0 Y-130 I130 Z0.3 E40 F2700
; Retract and move nozzle up
G92 E0
G1 E-1.5 F1800
G0 Z0.5
G1 E0 F300

But when I try to slice, PrusaSlicer gives me pic related as error.
It apparently doesn't like any of the M lines, but they're important otherwise it starts trying to do the purge line when it's not hot yet

[Anonymous No.2595668]

Yeah those aren't valid placeholders for PrusaSlicer.

M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]}
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]}

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/list-of-placeholders_205643
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/macros_1775

[Anonymous No.2595672]

>>2595664
Could you translate all four of them for me? I think it's something like this:

M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]}
M104 S{first_layer_print_temperature[0]}
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]}

But then I have no idea for the fourth one, and even the second I'm just guessing that "print_temperature" is a thing that exists within PrusaSlicer

[Anonymous No.2595681]

>>2595614
>doesn't even mention croXY

then again coreXY and croXY are nearly the same on that list, I would think.
https://youtu.be/LDrulFDEXtM

[Anonymous No.2595683]

>>2595672
Can't remember the last time I got to hold hands like this.
Did you even look at them?

Cura
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M109 S{material_initial_print_temperature}

That "material_initial_print_temperature" variable? FUCKING RETARDED.
>The minimal temperature while heating up to the Printing Temperature at which printing can already start.
God damn that is fucking stupid, don't ever use that shit.

PrusaSlicer
M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]}
M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]}
M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}

[Anonymous No.2595684]

>>2595681
anon thats not a printer

[Anonymous No.2595685]

>>2595683
Thanks for the spoonfeedin' lad, cheers

[Anonymous No.2595687]

>>2595685
Gladly, go have fun printing.

[Anonymous No.2595688]

>>2595684
cro(ss gantry)XY

[Anonymous No.2595692]

>>2595672
M### is a m-code command in gcode. Each one is a specific command like
M190 == wait for bed to reach temp
S is the value so if you wanted your bed at 60C
M190 S60
the {x} are a variable and might be prusa specific, I don't see Cura putting anything out like that.
; is a comment

so
M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]}
M104 S{first_layer_print_temperature[0]}
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]}

is
>set bed temp to value1
>set hot end temp to value2
>wait for bed temp to reach value1

if you replace with
M140 S50
M104 S210
M190 S50
it will heat to 50C/210C, the assumption is the nozzle will reach temp before the bed. if that wasn't happening you'd want to find a "wait for nozzle to reach temp" command to add.
or maybe cura has some of it's own variables for start / end code. I just copy pasted some machine specific start / end and haven't looked at it since so I'm not sure how to handle variables.

[Anonymous No.2595701]

>>2595664
Anon, just a FYI, if you hover your mouse over the text fields it lists a parameter name, you can use in the gcode, but I super superslicer so it might be slightly different.

I don't use prusaslicer anymore but still have it on my pc. This is a pic comparing the two, superslicer is left, prusaslicer is right, I believe prusaslicer is forked from superslicer (or the other way around), and superslicer is a fork from slic3r so alot of similarities

Also,
>[0]

I am familar with this syntax in programming normally means to get the first item in the list
>[0] "index 0"

Which is interesting, has me wonder what else is in that list for the variable.

Anyways, anon, hopefully this is helpful.

[Anonymous No.2595702]

>>2595692
Oh, I can just write the number... Afterall it's not really a variable if I'm never going to have a different number in it. Derp
Yeah I'll go do that
>>2595701
I did know about the tooltips and used them for info on the various options but I hadn't noticed it tells you the gcode parameter for each option as well, that's really neat

[Anonymous No.2595703]

>>2595702
Yeah that way if you change temperatures in your profile you dont have to worry about doing it in the gcode if you used a parameter.

[Anonymous No.2595704]

I'm liking PrusaSlicer a lot.
Thinking about it, if this weird acceleration-related bug >>2595442 hadn't happened I would have probably continued to suffer through Cura's beyond-clunky shitheap of an interface without knowing any better.
See, not all bad things bring uhh bad stuff
however the idiom goes

big thanks to the anons who helped, you're the MVPs

[Anonymous No.2595707]

>>2594925
Chinked and chinked good.
Buy either ColorFabb or Prusa filament.

>>2595250
Based handheld maker. Post here, they will like it: >>>/vr/9784440

[Anonymous No.2595708]

on the topic of slicers, are there some without a zoom pull back limit? I use cura and before cutting big prints i like to load the whole model and its accessories to see how they would fit with each other and their actual size while having the buildplate there as a reference, except cura stops me from zooming out too far, are the others also like this?

[Anonymous No.2595724]

Collage's just don't do it for me anymore.
Letting the AI make a little slideshow, that's the good stuff.

[Anonymous No.2595750]

>>2595724
Maximum autism, I love it.

[Anonymous No.2595751]

>>2595724
that's pretty cool actually, it's only missing the /3dpg/ text

[Anonymous No.2595860]

>>2595751
Yeah was still debating how I wanted to do it.

It's getting there. I need to figure out why I'm having trouble with 2-pass encoding, there's quality being left on the table.
Currently it adjusts the bitrate slightly and tries again until with hits 2.90-2.99MB, because fuck it.

[Anonymous No.2595862]

Which print orientation for general purpose durability? I'm thinking left because right looks like it'd snap easily if stressed on the side, but I really don't know.

[Anonymous No.2595868]

>>2595862
Your intuition is correct.
Generally one can expect the one on the left there to be much, much more durable.

[Anonymous No.2595887]

>>2594672
>>2595724
>>2595860
Based.
We will observe your shit posting career with interest.

[Anonymous No.2595896]

>>2595862
Layers will always snap faster, the world for it is layer adhesion.
In really simple terms when you print with polymers, you essentially printing with long strings of molecules. When cooling, these long strings start to jumble together, giving strength to the plastic, but the previous layer you printed is already somewhat cooled down, so the next layer's "strings" wont connect that well to that layer. Many factors can improve layer adhesion, like higher printing temps, less cooling, slower printing and so on.
Picrel is a somewhat retarded illustration of this.
Usually with functional parts, you try to orient the print in a way that the forces on said part never go against the layers.

[Anonymous No.2595900]

ender 3
prusa slicer
geeetech filament
200° nozzle temp
55° bed temp

Speed for print moves:
Perimeters: 60 mm/s
Small perimeters: 15 mm/s
External perimeters: 50%

Speed for non-print moves:
Travel: 130 mm/s
z travel: 130mm/s

i guess i should look into retraction. i have found the settings for it but apparently they are all disabled by default. what would be some good settings for it before i go and do test print after test print

[Anonymous No.2595908]

>>2595900
Run a retraction tuning. One print, done.

>>2590451
>Calibrate your printer.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction

[Anonymous No.2595911]

>>2595900
One not many people consider is fan speed on part cooling fan, I mean its job is to cool the part right? little bit of filament getting hit with 100% fan speed will cause it dry cool very quickly, and thus, stringing.

I normally run my fan @ 35% but I have found 60-75% fan speed is needed for black, mostly due to overhang curling and essentially overheating.

For retraction, this is a good start. When I ran bowden these were the settings I used and never changed them.

Retraction Distance: 6mm
Retraction Speed: 20mm/s
*Maximum Retraction Count: 5
*Minimum Extrusion Distance Window: 10mm

* = slicer may support it, and its optionable anyways.

[Anonymous No.2595919]

>>2595576
ECM/EDM doesn't need high tool speeds though. Basically nothing besides 3D printing and laser cutting does. I think it's best to keep the machines seperate.

[Anonymous No.2595944]

>>2595908
ive done the configuration steps and got the gcode file at the end. opening it in prusaslicer looks like it has some issues and when i try to print it it crashes the printer.
heres the gcode if you wanna look at it
https://pastebin.com/rGA3XhxQ

[Anonymous No.2595952]

When the nozzle starts laying down a line on the bed the first half inch of plastic sticks to the nozzle before it starts adhering to the bed. It's causing these hairs to stand up and collide with the nozzle pulling itself off the bed. Anyone know of a Cura setting to help fix this? It's well calibrated otherwise

[Anonymous No.2595957]

>>2595944
>it crashes the printer.
You need to tell us what's happening, "crashed the printer" doesn't mean shit.
The gcode file is fine, it tells me nothing. If something's wrong, you probably chose something wrong in the configuration steps, or you've fucked up your printer in some other unrelated way.

[Anonymous No.2595960]

>>2595957
when i go to print the file the screen freezes up for a second, then the boot screen shows and im back on the main info screen with nothing happening. you can get the ender 3 to crash very easily. putting more than 20ish files on my microSD card is also enough to consistently crash the printer.

[Anonymous No.2595964]

>>2595960
Sounds like a problem with your microsd card.
The gcode file on it is probably corrupt.
It's not the sd card that came with the printer right? Because that should be in the landfill already.

[Anonymous No.2596009]

Prints started warping up consistently on one side, but the only thing I changed is putting on a new roll of filament, could I truly have just a shitty roll?

[Anonymous No.2596038]

>>2596009

what brand is it?

>the only thing I changed is putting on a new roll of filament

I highly doubt its the roll.

[Anonymous No.2596103]

>>2596009
Silk PLA strikes again?

[Anonymous No.2596125]

#500 - It's time for a new plastic vomiting robots thread.

New Bread
>>2596124

New Bread
>>2596124

New Bread
>>2596124

[Anonymous No.2596283]

>>2595896
this pic gives me cursed vibes, like I'm staring at a hairy penis or something

[Anonymous No.2596284]

>>2595952
I think it's just an adhesion thing, you need to fix your Z-level, make sure your bed is hot, don't print too fast for the first layer etc

[Anonymous No.2596305]

>>2596283
I, too, have unresolved childhood trauma because my uncle abused me.