/wwg/ - Woodworking General

[Anonymous No.2579104]

Welcome to the woodworking general, here we discuss the working of wood and the tools and techniques of working wood. So far we tend to be mostly hand tool folk with a slant towards cabinetry and carving but all are welcome and we have some capable power tool folk amount our ranks. General carpentry question such as framing/decking/general construction seems to get a better response in the /qtddtot/ or /sqt/.

>essential /wwg/ books
Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places, but the other two are MIA.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561588261

Christopher Schwarz tells you everything you need to know about planes and saws and their use
Handplane Essentials
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440332983
Handsaw Essentials
Best to find this one in PDF from the usual sources, out of print and pricey!

Chris Pye wrote the book on carving and keeps on writing them.
https://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/

The Eastern tradition, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0941936465

Leonard Lee The Complete Guide to Sharpeninig, how to sharpen most everything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561581259

Bob Flexner - Finishing 101, covers the common stuff, his other books cover the uncommon and go into more depth
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440308454/

Illustrated Cabinet Making by Bill Hylton, learn to design furniture that won't fall apart
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565233697/

>essential /wwg/ tv
https://www.pbs.org/show/woodwrights-shop/
https://www.newyankee.com/

[Anonymous No.2579106]

The groove/drawer bottom idea worked great. I might add stiffeners to the bottom simply for looks but it already feels very solid. I think it's time for the electronics now.

[Anonymous No.2579335]

sawmill visits my town next week. i want to cut some european beech slabs for a future workbench. Future size after milling should be 220x25x8cm, what % should i calculate as waste in each dimension?
I have no experience with beech or drying it

[Anonymous No.2579340]

>>2579335
I don’t know exactly but my experience with beach drying is that when flat cut, jt will cup a lot. I have a 20mm thick board here but if I were to plane it flat on both sides there would be maybe 16mm left

>>2579106
Did you use a router plane or table saw for the grooves? I’ve found it pretty hard to do them with a chisel alone

[Anonymous No.2579343]

>>2579340
Table saw, it was very easy. Did the trick with spacers between the fence and they ended up perfect. This whole project has been going suspiciously well.

[Anonymous No.2579350]

>>2579340
a plough plane is way better suited for groove than a router plane even if it has a fence attached to it
If you only have a chisel you need also a good cutting gauge or a kerfing plane, you can make both yourself easily. Or you can clamp a fence and use a small saw, you just have to cut the sides of your groove then remove waste with a chisel. If doing a stopped groove make a small mortise or drill a hole at each end of your groove first

[Anonymous No.2579352]

>>2579340
>>2579350
forgot to add, regarding your beech plank if you want it flat with less wasted thickness, you can rip it in half, plane both halves then re-joint them together

[Anonymous No.2579355]

>>2579352
you say that but ripping, jointing and gluing such slabs is not an easy task if you expect good results.
edge jointing 1/2" is piss easy. edge jointing 3" is not.

[Anonymous No.2579356]

>>2579355
true, but here anon is talking about a 20mm thick plank, 3/4 inches in freedom units

[Anonymous No.2579428]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrlV5cEoIQc

What do you guys think about this?
Savage is very good at making props and finishing etc... .
But this video just highlights how shit he is at woodworking.
He did that rabet in the most horrrible way possible.
It's going to get problems with vibrations due to him glueing it to the machines.
There are huge gaps visible for just simply joining 2 boards together.
I'm worried that people will try to replicate this as is visible in the comments and get hurt (as seen by him slipping with the circular saw).

[Anonymous No.2579433]

>>2579428
>battery dead after one and a quarter cut
kekekekek
>I'm worried that people will get hurt
in my country mutt and jap woodworker are famous for being stuck in 1890 safety wise lol

[Anonymous No.2579435]

>>2579433
That battery situation is absolutely horrible, he has a fucking Festool and decides he should switch to a Dewalt instead of waiting 30 min.

I bet not even the japs and mutts would be stupid enough to do a rabet like that.

[Anonymous No.2579538]

>>2579350
>>2579352
Thanks for the tips. I don’t have either of those planes nor a table saw, I tried a bit with chisel and saw but it seems to become progressively more difficult as the groove becomes longer (the depth is almost impossible to control and it’s very easy to rip out the walls). For my drawers right now I just dowel the bottoms with 2 dowels per side and they seem pretty sturdy. Dowels also allow me to put the bottom board at the actual bottom of the drawer so i guess I’ll keep doing it this way until I get a plough plane.

[Anonymous No.2579574]

>>2579538
Also another question, I still don’t know what’s the best procedure to mark/make a joint (barefaced housing joint in my case):
- Mark the groove, cut it, and measure rabbet from groove
- Mark the rabbet, cut it, and measure groove from rabbet
- Mark both of them and adjust when they don’t fit

Any hints or reasoning about what’s best? Or is this just ‘do what works in your experience’

[Anonymous No.2579601]

> shopping for cheap Chinese bits
> see this review

Woodworking bros... I thought this hobby was supposed to bring us closer...

[Anonymous No.2579727]

>>2579574
Use a reference face. Everything is measured from the reference face. This stops you from FUCKING IT UP.

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2579766]

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2579768]

>>2579766
Currently rebuilding/redesigning a teardrop trailer. Widened the frame 20", insulated floor. Half the wiring done, started insulation and 1/4" Cedar lining.

[Anonymous No.2579828]

Finally finished this cam clamp according to the instructional videos by Paul Sellers. I had to build a chisel with a narrow blade to cut the mortise. One big problem I ran into was that I couldn't find the drawings for the lever which were referred to in one of the videos. I was able to find measurements in one of his websites, but no drawing so I had to estimate the shape. In the end I ended up with a lever that slipped when thrown and under pressure so I had to flatten the contact point a bit to make it work.
The more obvious problem here is the extra holes in the moving head. Early on I drilled the holes in the wrong place and messed up one of them in the correct place which is why there is no pin in there as it wouldn't have allowed the steel bar through the moving head at all. It does work as is but the area without a pin where the steel bar touches the moving head when under pressure is quite crushed up after a few uses.
I'll be making a few more of these clamps.

[Anonymous No.2579839]

I want carpentryfags to leave.

[Anonymous No.2579844]

Can anyone here identify Australian hardwoods? I got these for free

[Anonymous No.2579898]

https://i.4cdn.org/wsg/1678691008479766.webm

[Anonymous No.2579924]

>>2579727
I know, but then there are still 3 ways of doing it

[Anonymous No.2579971]

What type of wood are these cabinets made of?

[Anonymous No.2580033]

>>2579971

Looks like oak

[Anonymous No.2580037]

>>2579844
i'm not good with australian hardwoods, but one of the first steps that's helpful is to look up what common domestic hardwoods are available and compare.

[Anonymous No.2580145]

Took forever but I’m finally making some progress on joinery. Made 3 drawers and hope that the next ones will be even better. The joints aren’t too pretty yet but at least they’re square and register now. Thanks for reading my blog

[Anonymous No.2580221]

tried making a trolley for moving wood.
seems to see more use turned upside down as a table...

[Anonymous No.2580222]

>>2579898
Who is this man?

[Anonymous No.2580228]

>>2579428
Why not just use a door?

[Anonymous No.2580232]

Bought a 3" surfacing bit for slab leveling and endgrain work. It's absolutely terrifying but God damn it hauls ass.

Pictured next to a 1.5 inch flattening bit which was no slouch itself.

[Anonymous No.2580233]

>>2579428
This is going to rattle like crazy every time he uses the machines

[Anonymous No.2580291]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUM23f6Hang
>>2580222
james burke connections

[Anonymous No.2580324]

>>2579335
Hard as iron. There are online calculators for this, easy to find. I would use a table saw with a dado blade.

[Anonymous No.2580327]

>>2579898
What is this, a water wheel for ants!

[Anonymous No.2580330]

>>2579971
that's beech

[Anonymous No.2580437]

>>2579971
Red oak

[Anonymous No.2580566]

>>2580291
You are beautiful anon.
This is an incredible series I have never seen before
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XetplHcM7aQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frzVi3mTiTU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-Fp8KD6t4E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yVWSnH3LB4

[Anonymous No.2580636]

>>2579768
I'd love to see more pictures anon, what's it look like from the outside? Is it one of those 90s deals? What's the goal? Something for cold weather camping?

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2580693]

>>2580636
Outside isn't finished, I'm waiting on more a delivery of waterproofed. Yes, the plan is to have a 4 season camper/ hunting camper that can go into rougher areas when I need it to.

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2580695]

>>2580693
* waterproofer. I added a hitch mount under the front of the frame so I can stick a tire carrier or bike rack there.

[Anonymous No.2580732]

Is there a minimum material thickness you would trust a hole saw to cut without damaging the piece?

[Anonymous No.2580760]

>>2580732
If you clamp it tightly between two thicker sacrificial boards in my experience about 3/16” (5mm) with hardwood. Less if the hole saw is sharp and runout is minimal. But use a solid hole saw not one of those clip on things. Also not in pine because it will fracture from the vibrations alone

[Anonymous No.2580761]

>>2580760
>3/16” (5mm) with hardwood
so if I want to make a hole in something more like 1/8" or 1/16" should I maybe make the hole in 3/4" or 1/2" then resaw it?

[Anonymous No.2580766]

Is it okay to put dowels into the edges of plywood and then load the faces? There many saying it won’t last but then there’s Matthias wandel who builds a bookcase this way and he seems pretty knowledgeable.

My design has a total of 8 dowels (6x30mm, 2 per side), spaced 100mm apart for a box bottom that holds 10kg. Is that enough or should I add more? I don’t really have enough material to do a destructive test.

[Anonymous No.2580784]

>>2580761
I guess 1/8” would work if it’s a dense wood and your hole saws and drill press aren’t as cheap as mine. Not sure about 1/16” but if you’re doing marquetry, most people use a scalpel or exacto for that

> should I maybe make the hole in 3/4" or 1/2" then resaw it?
Wouldn’t that break it even easier? I dunno I never resawed anything that thin

[Anonymous No.2580804]

>>2580784
I want to make a flush veneer for some panel mount electronic connectors. I've found that the table saw at least can shave stuff pretty thin without blowing it out so I think I will try that.

[Anonymous No.2580807]

>>2580804
I’d really look into scalpel/marquetry knife if your veneer is marquetry grade (ie not rock hard or stringy). You can use the window method or even just cut around piece of hole sawn thicker wood or around the connector itself. Cutting through 1/16” in a few light passes gives you crystal clear edges with zero tearout

[Anonymous No.2580809]

>>2580807
I've got like 8 of these holes to make, I really don't want to scalpel them all. Material is walnut. It's just a 3"x9" strip with the holes in it so it shouldn't be so complex as marquetry.

[Anonymous No.2580833]

>>2580732
>>2580809
Forstener bit >>> hole saw

[Anonymous No.2580875]

>>2580833
the plugs are fun to use for other things though too

[Anonymous No.2580895]

How should i make my table legs when i have limited tools?
Pic related is my current plan, The board would be made out of wood panels that are 2cm thick so i think they would need a strong support in order to not bend.
Support beams in picture would be 100mmx47mm pine planks and legs would be generic metal pipe table legs
Table should hold 3 screens, amp+speakers set, a big pc in the corner and whatever else.
Other options i have considered are
recycle drawers from random old work table on sale for cheap
square metal pipe frame

Any tips on what would be the best plan?

[Anonymous No.2580928]

Built a wireless fightstick recently. First time working with hardwood. I normally work with fir or pine, but I wanted to make a stick before I moved to an apartment in texas. Anyone here got any tips for woodworking in an apartment? I wanna continue woodworking but don’t want to be a nuisance to my neighbors.

[Anonymous No.2580943]

>>2580928

If you're forced to be a subhuman rentoid living in a bug hive, you'd be dumb not to just join a makerspace in your negro containment district.

Other than hand tools any tools you find suitable for apartment use will be far too small or irritating to set up and use. If you go to a decent makerspace you'll have decent or very good tools and probably skilled people there to get help or learn from.

[Anonymous No.2580955]

you wouldn't cut this rectangle out of your table apron right? How much would you be willing to cut out? I could do a longer and less high cut maybe.

[Anonymous No.2580957]

>>2580766
Yes if glued well that will be plenty

[Anonymous No.2581019]

Poorfag here, I picked up this desk for free, can I somehow reinforce or fortify it so that it can be a functioning workbench for the next few months? It's heavy enough but it isn't stable
I don't care if reinforcement methods completely fuck up its usability in other areas because I'll probably end up throwing it out myself once I can afford a purpose built bench

[Anonymous No.2581021]

>>2581019
Desk/shelf/whatever, it came with 4 shelves I could nail into the sides but I'm not sure if that would help with its stability

[Anonymous No.2581045]

>>2580895
make uprights two planks thick, offset one by a plank width to fit the horizontal and bolt on

[Anonymous No.2581072]

>>2581045
Had to read that embarrassingly many times and had to look for carpentry terms but finally got the idea, that what i get for being esl i guess
Thanks, looking at my local wood availability that solution actually might drop a bit off the price tag with some planning

[Anonymous No.2581131]

Hey guys, I'm an idiot who doesn't have a table saw. I'm looking at a couple of them at Lowes and Home depot, both are $150.

A Craftsman model CMXETAX69434510

And a Ryobi model RTS08

Are either of those worth it? I'm pretty new to the hobby, and I've made due with a shitty circular, and an old miter and it's to the point where I need one, bit I'm too poor for a fuckin Stopsaw or something thousands of dollars.

[Anonymous No.2581145]

>>2581131
It's a bit of an effort but you could rig up your own
https://woodgears.ca/homemade_tablesaw/saw2.html

[Anonymous No.2581147]

>>2581072
Ah, sorry, perhaps I could have worded that a little more clearly.

[Anonymous No.2581211]

Thougts on stain? I want to make bookshelves with a dark wood but I doubt I can afford walnut or mahogany.

[Anonymous No.2581268]

>>2581211
I don’t stain hardwoods, but use walnut stain on planed construction pine every now and then, turns out pretty good, looks a bit like real walnut from a distance but it will make every dent and scratch a lot darker than the rest so from up close it can look a tiny bit ’fake’

[Anonymous No.2581305]

>>2581211

Using wood conditioner can help with staining cheap construction lumber or you may be surprised at the price of "real" hardwood lumber.

I can get red oak rough for $2.85 bd/ft locally. Most lumberyards will s4s rough stock for a fairly reasonable cost. You'll end up with prepared lumber for only a few times what big box pine or Whitewood would cost and not have to worry about dryness either.

The $50-100 you saved on cheap store dimensional lumber won't feel cheap when it bows or something a few years from now.

[Anonymous No.2581308]

>>2580955
I would, the apron pieces are not stressed that much. I have cut large sections out for drawers. For my next table I am ripping the top and bottom pieces, cutting a piece out of the centre, and gluing the whole mess back together to create a perfect drawer opening. I have cut openings by hand before in Pine, but his project is in Black Cherry and harder to cut out by hand.

[Anonymous No.2581314]

>>2581305
I never said anything about buying construction lumber. I was asking about staining a cheaper hardwood dark. I guess I haven't actually checked prices but from what I gather both walnut and mahogany are pretty expensive and I'm don't know of any cheaper dark woods.

[Anonymous No.2581336]

>>2581314

Oh, I figured you would have looked at prices.

Mahogany and walnut is expensive no matter what. Sapele can be a good alternative to mahogany and is often relatively inexpensive (a little over $4 bd/ft for 4/4 near me last I saw it). Barely anyone would ever be able to tell sapele from mahogany by casual observation, other than sapele often has reversing grain that can make for tearout with straight knives. Maybe check it as an alternative.

[Anonymous No.2581358]

>>2581019
Try doing this.

[Anonymous No.2581362]

>>2580955
It’s only loaded in tension/compression and mostly on the outside. Guess it’s fine but if you’re going to change the shape put it more towards the vertical center and only make it wider horizontally instead of higher

[Anonymous No.2581369]

Building a John Wellsford design Joansa row boat

[Anonymous No.2581428]

>>2581211
Poplar takes stain really well, perfect for cherry stain, should work well with walnut, I would use a wood dye (not stain).

[Anonymous No.2581563]

>>2581308
>>2581362
I think I'm going to go with a longer, less tall cutout, or possibly just cut individual holes after all if I can get a consistent and reliable method for lining the holes up. The initial plan was to make large cutouts in the apron and chamfer them in, then make a 3/4" ply structure to hold panel mount connectors and apply a 1/8" veneer to the front, then mount it all behind the apron opening. That way it's relatively easy to retrofit the table for new TV or PC systems, but it might be safe to drill a few standard sized holes directly in the apron and bypass the veneer and large cutout plan. The only thing that definitely won't be standard between systems is the TV buttons so that should probably remain a full cutout but that's a small footprint.

anyway the hole saw handles <1/8" material just fine

[Anonymous No.2582061]

>>2581563
Thanks for posting result, that hole looks neat.

As for your plan, I would always make something replaceable like your veneer idea but why not cut a piece of the original stock so that it exactly fits the hole in >>2580955?

[Anonymous No.2582075]

>>2582061
because if I cut individual holes for all 8+ panel mount components I need and 45° chamfer them all in 15/16" material it'll blow up the footprint significantly. I want to group the connectors as close as they can possibly fit, apply a flat veneer, then cut a single slot per group of connectors, probably like 3 or 4 at a time, then chamfer that. That will save a lot of horizontal space at least.

[Anonymous No.2582186]

>>2579106
Nice. What kind of wood is that?

[Anonymous No.2582190]

Where can I buy a file small enough to sharpen a 20 tpi dovetail saw?

[Anonymous No.2582235]

>>2582190
look for jeweler's needle files.you can also grind one flat surface on the file which would make the edge come to a sharper point.

[Anonymous No.2582253]

Cutting the I/O holes was a pain. Instead of trying to line up the drill a million times I just did the ends and chiseled out the middle but this particular piece of wood was super splintery. Should have been able to tell that from just looking at it really. And my router's chamfer bit only goes about halfway down so it can't hide as much of the flaws as I was hoping for.

>>2582186
walnut and oak plywood

[Anonymous No.2582316]

Retard here, never glued wood before.
How much surface prparation do I need?
What is wood glue made from, which wood glues are suitale for external use, and what types of dowel are suitable for external use?

[Anonymous No.2582342]

>>2582316
If you ask like this people will tell you to Google it yourself

[Anonymous No.2582441]

>>2582342
How much crud and algae do I need to scrape and sand off pieces of wood from an old shed for glue to stick it together face to face properly? Would it make sense to drill dowels to holes to give it more lateral shear strength I can only seem to find softwood dowels but I think they'll probably rot out is there an alternative or will the wood glue act as a rot barrier?

[Anonymous No.2582444]

>>2582441
> How much crud and algae do I need to scrape and sand off pieces of wood from an old shed for glue to stick it together face to face properly?
All of it, down to the bare wood, but it’s more important that the glue surfaces are flat unless you use gap filling glue. Most regular glues won’t glue properly if the gap is more than 1/16” some even less

> make sense to drill dowels to holes
Yes that can help a lot depending on application.

> I can only seem to find softwood dowels
Most stores have beech dowels as well but they often come as one long rod rather than a bag of dowels. Beech dowels are great

> will the wood glue act as a rot barrier?
It’s not meant to but I’m sure that if you cover the dowel in PU glue, it won’t rot. But shouldn’t you paint or weather seal the shed anyway

[Anonymous No.2582452]

>decide to start woodworking
>watch paul sellers videos
>spent the last two months acquiring and setting up hand tools
>fingers are all cut up from learning to sharpen
>haven’t built shit
When does this get fun?

[Anonymous No.2582453]

>>2582444
the wood is from an old shed, I'm trying to make a garden table out of it.
I was considering drilling part way into the glue face of each piece of wood and inserting the dowels gluing them into one side then when that's set gluing the two faces together.

[Anonymous No.2582457]

>>2582452
when you interact with the things you build.
The fruits of labor so to say

[Anonymous No.2582461]

>>2582452
it doesnt lmfao

it actually does around the time you start doing an actual project not just setting up tools and the like

[Anonymous No.2582473]

>>2582452
>spent the last two months acquiring and setting up hand tools
>>fingers are all cut up from learning to sharpen
this is your problem. Don't expect a perfect result with your first project. Whatever tools you have are good enough for your newbie retard hands. As your skills improve, then it makes sense to improve your tools to improve your work. Would you spend two months "setting up" a guitar before actually trying to play it?

[Anonymous No.2582518]

So I'm totally clueless as to what I'm doing but I want to try woodworking. My first project is gonna be this small table I'm going to use to play Go on. I'm pretty confident I can handle cutting without much issue but how do you recommend I go about joining all these pieces together?

Forgive my preschool level handwriting. I've had very little reason to write on paper for the past decade and I was never good at it to begin with.

[Anonymous No.2582536]

>>2582453
In that case the softwood dowels would be fine (probably better) because water won’t reach them and beech dowels expand a lot which can cause cracks when they’re all locked in.

PU is the best outdoor glue imo

[Anonymous No.2582540]

>>2582518
For the top you glue them and optionally use dowels as well. Legs can be glued/doweled as well, or screwed on if it’s your first project, optionally with pocket holes

I really hope that with 2x4 you don’t mean construction pine 2x4 tho, because then you’ll be in for a bad time

[Anonymous No.2582546]

>>2582452
Been there, don’t worry it’ll get better. At some point you realise that you can actually make some stuff. You can always watch some Rex Krueger vids and get motivated to just do stuff and cut some corners.

It’s also why many people start with building shop stuff, benches, storage boxes etc. They don’t have to look pretty and you can plan as you go

[Anonymous No.2582562]

>>2582536
I think I have some pva, will that do?

I was originally considering bolting the two pieces together with threaded bar but thought glue might work better for the purpose but I've not used it before.

[Anonymous No.2582566]

>>2582540
I know construction pine is finicky and prone to warping but is it that bad? It's my first project so I was planning on using cheap materials. What should I use instead?

[Anonymous No.2582570]

>>2582566
yes construction pine is that bad. You will pay for the cheaper material cost in time and effort making it straight and it still will never be quite right since it's not usually dry when you get it anyway. Just go with a cheaper hardwood and make sure it's kiln dried and surfaced on at least 2 sides. That will make your life significantly less miserable.

[Anonymous No.2582574]

>>2582562
*I have this not sure what it would be classified as chemically.
https://gbr.sika.com/dms/getdocument.get/54f99055-ca0b-40d5-9ec5-0c3a75235e15/everbuild_502_weatherproofwoodadhesive.pdf

[Anonymous No.2582582]

>>2582566
For a table it’s really that bad yes. There is good pine but the cheap stuff in the hardware store warps a lot, has a lot of knots and is often not true to begin with. Making a table top out of that really isn’t worth the effort imo.

> What should I use instead?
Depends a lot on where you are, a cheap local hardwood will do. In many places that means oak but in many more rural places you can get other good local hardwoods for cheap

>>2582574
Should be fine if you don’t have monsoons. Would def use glue and dowels over threaded rods for outdoors stuff.

[Anonymous No.2582584]

More drawers, slowly getting there. The joints don’t look pretty but they pass the drop test. Time for cabinets tomorrow

[Anonymous No.2582585]

>>2582582
>>2582570
Thanks for the advice. I do live in a rural area. Ill see how cheap oak is around here.

[Anonymous No.2582590]

>>2582584
im guessing you used stock board from home depot? They still came out pretty nice. But you wouldnt believe me if I told you how my life changed when I got a jointer and a planer. Its about 1,000 bucks for both but god damn is it worth it.

[Anonymous No.2582623]

>>2582452
Wait until you actually start sawing stuff and doing joinery and realize it’s impossible to get anything straight or square

[Anonymous No.2582681]

Does anyone have the pic of the super overbuilt fuck bed a kid here made a few years ago? Had underside auto tensioning restraints too.
Or just any bed frame ideas you have

[Anonymous No.2582685]

>>2582623
you got to look at some old furniture. the joints are trash. they are strong though. nobody used to care about aesthetics of joints. in fact ehy hid joints,

[Anonymous No.2582699]

>>2582685
You’ve never cut a dovetail in your fucking life

[Anonymous No.2582703]

>>2579104
I used to carve stuff out of wood and expensive inlays for clients but stopped for a few years. The most expensive commission I made was a gabon ebony dagger w a mother of pearl mosaic handle. I still have a few pieces of exotic lumber and turning blocks laying around, I should get back into it.

[Anonymous No.2582704]

>>2582703
Post pics

[Anonymous No.2582714]

>>2582704
old bitches will remember me posting these eons ago

[Anonymous No.2582716]

>>2582704

[Anonymous No.2582718]

>>2582704
making stuff for cosplayers and people into wicca/pagan shenanigans early on helped pay for a lot of new tools.

[Anonymous No.2582732]

>>2582699
Hes right thou
Especially old dovetails are sometimes atrocious, they even wedges the tails for them to fit at all. My first attempt was better than the drawer on an old handbuild table i own

[Anonymous No.2582739]

>>2582590
Nah I found these on the curb, someone was throwing a lot of stuff out and I picked up most of the solid wood. Made them back straight and removed rounded edges with a hand plane.

[Anonymous No.2582845]

Just picked these bad boys up. How’d I do?

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/back/71370-veritas-rip-and-crosscut-tenon-saws?item=05T1410

[Anonymous No.2583014]

>>2582845
I don't really see the point of the crosscut one. I'd rather have the crosscut carcass saw.

[Anonymous No.2583037]

>>2583014
What’s the fucking difference?

[Anonymous No.2583082]

>>2582845
Not same anon but in my understanding a carcass saw is just a cross cut back saw slightly bigger than yours. I never buy precision cross cut saws because for big cuts a normal crosscut works and for small precise cuts (like tenon shoulders) a rip tenon saw does fine.

I have that same veritas rip one and love it but haven’t tried to sharpen it yet. not sure if you overpaid though, I think got it for like €100 here

[Anonymous No.2583268]

I just glued a plane tote back together. Is it ok to reinforce with a dowel? That's what an old woodworker I met recommended.

[Anonymous No.2583284]

>>2583268
>listening to boomers

[Anonymous No.2583336]

>old classical methods are the best
>old boomers are retarded and give bad advice
why are these always both true

[Anonymous No.2583379]

If I carve / CNC a ‘stamp’ shape out of beech, could it be used to stamp into pine faces reliably? Not with ink but just a light hammer tap

[Anonymous No.2583386]

>>2583037
The carcass saw is smaller.

[Anonymous No.2583398]

>>2581369
Exciting project, anon. What style construction are you going to use? I've only ever made a 4 plank stitch and tape canoe before but it was a ton of fun.

[Anonymous No.2583421]

>>2583336
Because 100 is the average iq and 50% of people you meet are below this number.

[Anonymous No.2583429]

>>2583421
*and above that 34.1% will be up to 115 then another 13.6% up to 130, which is roughly the midwit cut off, people above this point are generally pretty smart but only make up about 2-2.4% of the entire population. so only about 1/40 to 1/50 people can give reasonably good advice but most of these will probably not be in the trades

[Anonymous No.2583433]

>>2583421
> 100 is the average iq
> 50% of people you meet are below this number
American education, everyone.

[Anonymous No.2583436]

>>2583433
Are you feeling okay anon? It was intended as a flippant quote, I extended it in my second post with the gaussian standard deviation figures.
We coould go into more detail on the topic if you would like?

[Anonymous No.2583656]

>>2583336
The "old classical method" is more like, pre-1930's. After that, disposable cheap furniture really sets in.

[Anonymous No.2583749]

>>2583336
Boomers are born post ww2, the good old woodworking methods are pre ww1. After ww2 it got worse as changes in society and economic growth caused huge demand for everything and the ikeafication of consumer products

[Anonymous No.2584033]

Hello friends, retard here. I want to get into wood working and wood carving, but I legitimately do not know where to get started. What to look for in tools, what to look for in the wood, how long does a singular project usually take, what's a good starting project?
If I were to guess, I'd say that my "end goal" would be to carve whatever I may think of, but also stuff like pic rel

[Anonymous No.2584191]

>>2584033
Get a pen knife and start whittling bits of stick. when you can handle a knife well enough expand into other ideas

[Anonymous No.2584260]

Is it practical to learn to make furniture from books and trial and error? I'm mostly interested in traditional techniques with hand tools and such. I live in a condo with a big woodshop and everyone there is clueless they just like their power tools and making simple things so I can't really get advice from them. Or should I take training classes or something like that?

[Anonymous No.2584266]

>>2584260
YouTube helps if you follow along, I think very few woodworkers I know have ever had a class or something, just books videos and practice

[Anonymous No.2584292]

Why shouldn't I make a permanent zero-clearance plate for my table saw? I lost so many 1/8" pieces down the hole this weekend.

[Anonymous No.2584330]

>>2584292
Because you should be doing stuff by hand instead.

[Anonymous No.2584352]

>>2584330
yeah let me just spend an hour making a dozen 1/8" spacers by hand instead of banging them out in 10 seconds on the table saw

[Anonymous No.2584354]

>>2584352
Skill issue.

[Anonymous No.2584356]

>>2584354
I bet you didn't even forge your own chisels you lazy buyfag

[Anonymous No.2584417]

>>2584356
>/wwg/ - Metalworking general
Retard.

[Anonymous No.2584446]

>>>/wsg/5015342

why are threaded inserts such a pain? It's a miracle I didn't ruin anything fighting with those things.

[Anonymous No.2584460]

I’ve been reading Tage Frid and watching Paul Sellers videos and they disagree on a lot of things.

>Tage hates back saws and panel saws, exclusively uses frame/bow saws
>Paul mostly uses back saws and panel saws, rarely uses frame/bow saws
>Tage says a jack plane and a jointing plane are essential
>Paul rarely uses anything bigger than a no 4, said he doesn’t like jointing planes
>Tage says housing dados aren’t strong enough on their own
>Paul says they are
>Tage goes over dozens of different joints he uses
>Paul likes to stick to 3 basic joints

Honestly I’m gravitating more towards Paul’s way of teaching. He seems to really enjoy what he does and is able to explain things in a way that makes sense to people with little to no experience. I’m barely halfway through the first Tage Frid book and the guy sounds like a pretentious faggot. I regret shelling out $70 for the set. It’s retarded that this asshole is shilled in the OP but Paul Sellers isn’t.

[Anonymous No.2584526]

>>2584460
It's not pretentiousness. Tage was a production woodworker in Denmark so he grew up with bow saws and large planes. The former is a preference and the latter is an efficiency thing.

[Anonymous No.2584590]

>>2584460
I would call it historic English style vs Scandinavian.
Don’t get sellers obsession with using only 2 planes, he even recommends against using a block plane for no obvious reason but doing end grain with the no 5 instead.
I like specialising in a few joints over learning many different ones just because you can but it’s aesthetics and personal preference I guess.

Also
> Tage says housing dados aren’t strong enough on their own
Depends on the case? Housing dados offer little racking resistance but that’s more of a design problem imo

[Anonymous No.2584705]

>>2584460
Paul is also a gigantic egomaniac.
I bet half the things he's strong opinionated about is simply to differentiate his brand.
Why not stick to book learning and accept that you will buy some onion tools anyway. In the end its what you like to use, not them.

[Anonymous No.2584729]

how effective is a bow drill compared to the hand crank drills? i'm planning on making a bow drill since i broke two of my hand crank drills. i want to
what about a pump drill?
the problem would be making it really accurate in the chuck part.

[Anonymous No.2584730]

>>2584729
What are you using it for?

[Anonymous No.2584737]

I've always just used my dad's and grandad's shop tools for wood projects, but finally have a big enough garage to start setting my own shop up. Every where I look, someone is complaining about every single brand. Which brands are truly the greatest? I've already got a nice table saw, so next I'm getting a belt/disk sander combo, a jigsaw, and a drill press. I do wood and metal so who truly are the best brands?

[Anonymous No.2584738]

>>2584737
Band saw not jigsaw.

[Anonymous No.2584755]

>>2584730
anything that a crank drill would do. mainly wondering how it compares in accuracy for doing things like drilling through a rod like chisels handles. maybe even make some kind of portable manual drill press set up for it when i need one.

[Anonymous No.2584758]

>>2584755
Why not use a brace?

[Anonymous No.2584766]

>>2584590
i understand that backsaws are mostly english and then american, but did scandinavia really not use panel saws of some kind? i know that other germanic countries had saws that are essentially panel saws with their own different shapes and handle design such as the ones with narrow curved blades and straight handle or steel plate saws that have a peg and socket style attachment for handles.
i think paul sticks to no 4s mostly because that's what is available (or what was available for a while) and he wants to introduce as many people into woodworking. the mechanical metal bodied planes also have a lot of literature from tool autists unlike wooden bodied wedged planes.

[Anonymous No.2584775]

>>2584766
bowsaw for everything, even fine joinery. At least until the japan saw replaced it in the 80s
Tages most impressive saw is the dovetail saw, never seen on in person myself.
capable of cutting the waste of in one stroke

[Anonymous No.2584779]

>>2579104
I want to create a desk for my computer from 2 2x4 feet sheets of plywood. I was originally going to just screw them together but then I thought that I might be able to just glue them together and place a bunch of 10lb weights around the top.
Should I try this or just go with screws?

[Anonymous No.2584786]

>>2584758
my braces don't accommodate a lot of the smaller sizes that i use with the hand crank drill.

[Anonymous No.2584823]

>>2584705
How is Paul an egomaniac? He rarely makes any objective statements. When he talks about his preferred ways of doing things he always acknowledges that it’s down to personal preferences. In fact one of the phrases I’ve heard him say the most is “different strokes for different folks”.

As for his “brand”, I’ve watched dozens of his videos and I can only recall him mention his books 2 times at most. He does often refer to his websites. He does often plug his websites but they have a ton of content and one of them is free while the other is subscription based but that just gives you access to his project videos a week before they go on YouTube.

I doubt you’ve ever watching any of Paul’s videos if you actually think he’s an egomaniac.

[Anonymous No.2584852]

>>2584823
ffs this is the last thread i want to derail with e-celeb discussion, so last post on this
>I doubt you’ve ever watching any of Paul’s videos
yea maybe you should browse through his blog some before accusing others (especially the older rants)
>As for his “brand”
He, his face is his brand, im not talking about shilling his offerings. Every successful youtuber has to differentiate himself from other successful ones in the same nieche. Its how you share a fanbase with others instead of cannibalizing it

[Anonymous No.2584860]

>>2584852
>paul sellers is an e-celeb
>paul sellers is a youtuber
You’ve lost all credibility in this general. Leave now.

[Anonymous No.2584870]

>>2584766
> i think paul sticks to no 4s mostly because that's what is available (or what was available for a while) and he wants to introduce as many people into woodworking
Often see the opposite and it’s the one of the things I don’t like too much about his videos. Sometimes it starts with “very easy anyone can do it” but he ends up whipping out a four jigs, combination plane, rabbet plane, dovetail gauge and a mortise chisel

I don’t get the other hate as much btw I’ve never found him come across as egomaniac or whatever, most brits of his age are a lot worse

[Anonymous No.2584896]

>>2584779
Hope it isn't an expensive computer

[Anonymous No.2584934]

Took a few weeks with mineral spirits but I finally got most of the oil out of my gun stock, only now the chalk I used on it is stuck in the crack. Any ideas on how to clean it out without widening it? Is it still too oily to glue?

[Anonymous No.2584943]

>>2584934
Update, forget about the chalk, I just flossed it out with a string, a bit left deep in there but it should be fine. I'd still like to get your opinions on the amount of oil left in the wood. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.2584985]

let's say I want to glue some plywood blocks to a solid base to act as spacers and guides for lining up other components. If I go back and flush cut them and plane it all back flat is there any harm or risk? Can I consider any small glue piece potentially non-permanent?

And this isn't a job for double sided tape. I'm talking about years later, not minutes.

[Anonymous No.2584996]

>>2584943
>>2584934
Why the fuck are you doing this retard? If your trying to do a restore, you've already ruined it. Did you buy a piece of shit for $5 and think you could just salvage it? Make a new stock, retard.

[Anonymous No.2584997]

>>2584985
>>2584779
Hey samefag retard, just do the project right. Half assing this now will have you spending even more on a new computer in the very near future.

[Anonymous No.2585008]

>>2584997
I'm not the computer desk retard. Does he sound like he knows what flush cutting and planing is?

[Anonymous No.2585036]

>>2584996
Why so mad? I didn't ruin it, I'm gluing the cracks so it won't break when I shoot it. I cleaned the oil first, and I'll apply some linseed oil when I'm done.
>Did you buy a piece of shit for $5
Lee Enfields are pretty expensive, and these cracks are unfortunately very common. They're also impossible to see unless you take it apart before buying.

[Anonymous No.2585038]

>>2585008
You sound like you googled it.

[Anonymous No.2585105]

>>2584860
Must have immagined the channel and his army of discibles

[Anonymous No.2585107]

>>2585105
>army of discibles
How loud is that?

[Anonymous No.2585111]

>>2584775
Unfortunately you don't find many of them anymore. I imagine it's because those very thin blades have rusted through by now. You still find shitheaps of big frame saws on the used market here in Denmark, most of the time even in a decent enough condition to use and for next to nothing. Pic related is just a quick search, going for 50kr/$7.23 per saw.

[Anonymous No.2585255]

>>2585111
its because production shops dont bother with used sales. My neighbor just trashed 30 bowsaws last year because he didnt knew i'd be interested.
What you find on ebay is either from insolvency sales or grandpas estate

[Anonymous No.2585326]

>>2585111
Damn, I paid $100 for a new one just a few weeks ago.

[Anonymous No.2585365]

>>2583398
It's technically stitch and glue but with frames. I don’t need to add any glass but will still glass the bottom and put Kevlar tape along the chines. I used to be a professional shipwright so this is a pretty “basic” project but I’m still a bit rusty and will have to do a good bit of sanding. Transom is Sapele and the thwarts will be as well. Haven’t gotten to work on it in a few weeks but I start planking soon. Everything is 1/4” Okoume

[Anonymous No.2585506]

>>2584775
surely they have saws that are not framed for rough cutting large boards and ripping.

is there a video of that illustration in action?

[Anonymous No.2585628]

I dont know if i wanna chuck pu on my workbenches, but i dont want a coating that peels easy or goes sticky/oily. Is there any other choice? Honestly dreading how long the application will take because weve been having 70+ humidity days

[Anonymous No.2585653]

Wrong thread perhaps but how much overhang do I "need" with a wooden shed with a flat(slightly angled) roof? Would 15 cm / 6 inches be enough?

[Anonymous No.2585683]

>>2585365
Are you Australian?

[Anonymous No.2585752]

>>2585653
How much wind and rain do you get? 15cm is right normally I think it’s even the standard amount in prefab sheds. As for slope just make sure you have at least a few cm/m, you don’t want to get water pooling once the roof sags a bit

[Anonymous No.2585753]

>>2585628
What are you trying to achieve with it? Normally just some wax is more than enough, you’ll go through that PU anyway with a chisel or drill at some point

[Anonymous No.2585759]

>>2585752
Quite heavy rain and wind on the "prevailing" side but I won't need doors or windows on that side anyway. Thanks! Maybe I'll post my plans here when I finish all the details

[Anonymous No.2585786]

Well, well, well. What do we have here? Whatever’s inside is sure to make poorfags seethe.

[Anonymous No.2585801]

>>2585786
FUCK I love being able to afford the finer things in life

[Anonymous No.2585817]

>>2585506
yes but i cant find it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFqY73lelq8&t=56s
this here shows a similar technique with a twisted coping saw blade

[Anonymous No.2585818]

>>2585801
Wew lad you are so cool wew wew wew ebin saws lad weew all the guys on fourchin are going to be so impressed

[Anonymous No.2585837]

>>2585801
Good saws but why buy all three. The dovetail does anything the other two do just fine and with the stiffest blade. But whatever, have fun with them.

[Anonymous No.2585838]

>>2585818
Seethe, poorfag. :^)

[Anonymous No.2585855]

>>2585801
>$89.99
Sure that's expensive when compared to Harbor Freight, but not really when compared to something other than bottom of the barrel crap.
Come back when you're dropping thousands on dumb Amazon crap.
https://www.amazon.com/Rob-Cosmans-Dovetail-Black-Resin/dp/B0037MF3M8/ref=asc_df_B0037MF3M8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242034450866&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10537868577659559252&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014680&hvtargid=pla-680640007122&psc=1

[Anonymous No.2585867]

>>2585837
Good luck cutting a tenon with a dovetail saw lmao

[Anonymous No.2585877]

>>2585801
Based. I have never regretted buying a Veritas tool. They just work right out of the box. I’m currently thinking about pulling trigger on this little ditty.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/plow/74089-veritas-right-hand-small-plow-plane?item=05P5820

[Anonymous No.2585882]

>>2585877
i swear this boomer bait gets more expensive every time i see it linked.
while im not happy with my no. 50s, its sadly more than adequate for the two grooves i do in a month

[Anonymous No.2585884]

>>2585882
What the fuck do you make if you don’t need to build boxes, panels, or drawers.

[Anonymous No.2585888]

>>2585884
last furniture pieces did indeed not have any of those. One is upcoming but i procrastinated that for a month now.
Right now im building a scyth snath fitted to my size

[Anonymous No.2585890]

>>2585867
I’ve shown some pretty fine tenons in last thread cut with that dovetail saw but I can’t be bothered to look them up for you.

>>2585884
> What the fuck do you make if you don’t need to build boxes, panels, or drawers.
Nta but is this a real question? Have you ever seen a chair

[Anonymous No.2585995]

>>2585365
I have that same jap saw and find it to be absolutely dog shit comparted to other jap saws I have used.

How old are you, how long were you a professional shipwright and how did you get into it?

I've been a fine furniture maker for 10+ years and have always wondered what life would be like if I took the shipwright path instead.

[Anonymous No.2586110]

I did my floors recently and opted for custom flush mount vents. Not sure how I feel about the finished work. What y'all think?

[Anonymous No.2586131]

Does anyone know where I can find a dowel jig that can drill two holes with a single clamping? Im so sick of clamping and unclamping the jig for every single hole.

[Anonymous No.2586133]

>>2586110
looks pretty comfy desu. good grain matching between the vent and the floorboard. would have gone with the same wood for the frame though.

[Anonymous No.2586154]

>>2586131
Here you go, nigga. This is the lowest price I’ve seen in months for this too, so you better act fast.

https://a.co/d/bMpBXA3

Also
>dowels
Do a proper mortise and tenon, faggot.

[Anonymous No.2586156]

>>2586154
>mortise and tenon
As gorgeous as that is it's pretty pricy. I also found this thing which looks fairly promising. Doesnt look like the manufacturer is in business anymore.

https://thewoodsmithstore.com/product/task-self-centering-doweling-jig/

>mortise and tenon
I aint got the tools for that.

[Anonymous No.2586167]

I bought a guitar kit and I want to paint the body proper. Do I have to put wood filler on the body or should I go straight to sanding and water sealing it? I'm going into this project blind and could use some guidance.

[Anonymous No.2586193]

>>2586167
Kek

[Anonymous No.2586227]

>>2586110
For something at floor level I think that looks perfectly acceptable. Nice tidy job.

[Anonymous No.2586240]

>>2586167
Lol

[Anonymous No.2586258]

Fitting drawers turned out to be a lot more difficult than making them but at least they slide properly.

[Anonymous No.2586286]

>>2586167
Son I...

[Anonymous No.2586300]

>>2586193
>>2586240
>>2586286
I'm going to figure this out goddammit

[Anonymous No.2586322]

>>2586258
Why are they crooked?

[Anonymous No.2586341]

>>2586300
>>2586167
Why are you wanting to put wood filler on the body?

[Anonymous No.2586352]

>>2586156
This isn’t the hobby for you, poorfag.

[Anonymous No.2586360]

>>2586341
Some of the tutorials I read mentioned using it after removing paint, but they also start with a guitar that already has paint on it. I should just ignore the paint removal and body filler parts and sand the body?

[Anonymous No.2586372]

I'm a programmer and AI is taking my job away in 5 yrs tops.

I'm thinking of learning fine woodworking and selling luxury furniture to rich folks around area. I want to make classic, minimalist styled furniture (think nordic/midcentury) with quality materials and fine details. How should I go learning this? What is the ballpark estimate for setting up a productive shop? Also were are some places I can learn about design and styles for inspiration? Thanks

[Anonymous No.2586377]

>>2586258
now making a tray with dividers would be nice to your tools

[Anonymous No.2586379]

>>2586372
Lmao

[Anonymous No.2586392]

>>2586372
Go get a job as a bitch at a cabinet maker and work hard and stfu. Eventually they will teach you.

[Anonymous No.2586398]

>>2586377
Yea I’m thinking of making something like that. But it needs to be sort of modular, haven’t found too many good ideas yet, maybe it’ll just be a bunch of small boxes

[Anonymous No.2586408]

>>2586360
Yes.

[Anonymous No.2586410]

>>2586372
School, dad, or apprenticeship.

[Anonymous No.2586500]

>>2586408
Thank you for taking mercy on a retard

[Anonymous No.2586517]

Hey y'all

I've got a second floor deck at my parents house, and they're getting older and I can't be there every single time they need someone to do some heavy lifting. So I've been thinking about using the deck and installing some kind of pulley system with a platform to help them with heavy lifting like groceries and the like.

The deck is on stilts though, but it seems sturdy enough. I'm hoping I can make a motorized pulley system that can handle loads up to 100 lbs max. Is this possible? Can the wood handle it? The deck is ~ 20 ft above ground.

[Anonymous No.2586528]

>>2586517
My first thought is just a basic pulley system, with a platform on rails to guide it to stay parallel to the deck, then hooking up a tow wench to motorized it.

[Anonymous No.2586545]

>>2586517
> 100lbs
If the deck holds you it will probably hold 100lbs, don’t you think? If unsure stand on it with 3 or 4 people and see how much it gives. Just make sure to spread the load a bit (screw the pulleys onto different joists) and use the right fasteners

[Anonymous No.2586585]

>>2586517
Harbor Freight winch.

[Anonymous No.2586591]

>>2586517
This is retarded and will end up killing one of them. If they've made it to retirement age and can't afford to pay someone $20 an hour to help them with this crap, then they've failed at life.

[Anonymous No.2586695]

>>2579898
>Saves the thumbnail

[Anonymous No.2587079]

What are these carvings in handles called?

[Anonymous No.2587136]

>>2587079
Ugly.

[Anonymous No.2587236]

Any fractal burning chads in here

[Anonymous No.2587248]

>>2587236
What kind of redneck shit is this?

[Anonymous No.2587259]

>>2587248
Using the transformer from a microwave to burn wood

[Anonymous No.2587261]

>>2587259
You're going to die. You didn't see the thread with all the pintrest people melting their hands doing this?

[Anonymous No.2587281]

>Be me
>go to antique store with my wife
>Sweet! Find a nice Disston D8 cross cut for a good price
>get home
>already had a D8 cross cut in my "to sharpen" pile

I'm not a tool hoarder, but I am trending in that direction.

[Anonymous No.2587287]

>>2587281
How much did you pay? I just bought 2 Disston D8s on ebay for about $50 each

[Anonymous No.2587300]

>>2587287
$29 for the one today. The first one was from an estate sale for $7.50 (was on the last day, so everything was 50% off).

[Anonymous No.2587306]

Hello woodworking anons. I am looking to make domino size tiles of wood, or perhaps palm size coins of wood. These would be for craving various symbols and runes onto, one per item.
I was thinking of using driftwood and large branches for this.
I am very novice at wood, I obtained a set of chisels and some pure linseed oil to keep the wood pieces from rotting.
These would be for eventually making a set of runes to divine with, as I would handle them daily I would like to avoid any toxic chemicals to seal them with.
Any advice would be appreciated. If you like I can give you a tarot reading in return.

[Anonymous No.2587307]

>>2587306
Kek

[Anonymous No.2587311]

Can you make this kind of thing with just hand tools? It has to be fairly long and precise.

[Anonymous No.2587335]

>>2587236
We had one about a year ago but he died

[Anonymous No.2587344]

>>2587311
Yes, almost. You get a router plane to make a wide grove. Then you glue to pieces of thinner wood on top to make the narrow groove.

But does it have to be a T slot? If a dovetail slot will do, you can get a plane for that.

[Anonymous No.2587350]

>>2587248
Junkyard euthanasia project.

[Anonymous No.2587356]

>>2587236
trained electrician here
Your setup is shit, no sugarcoating that. only ever touch it with the primary side powered off. Never touch anything on the secondary side. at the voltages involved, there is a good chance you get a lethal shock even touching the insulated sections, you'd need silicon coated hv wire, not jumper cables
Due to the nature of a transformer, if the secondary side circuit gets interrupted (high resistance in wood, clamp getting loose, your dumbass disconnecting under power) the voltage will jump way past 1 million volt for a moment
>>2587311
you could grind a special purpose L bit for a router plane, but is that worth the effort for the sake of larping?

[Anonymous No.2587357]

>>2587356
>silicon coated hv wire

[Anonymous No.2587360]

>>2587357
right, you yanks call is silicone
look at this nibba here. Tested to 15000V before dielectric breakdown occurred. This is barely enough for a fractal transformer depending on how the secondary was made.

[Anonymous No.2587364]

>>2587360
No, everyone calls it silicone. The name was, in fact, coined by a bong. Silicon is atomic element number 14. Always has been. In both languages.

[Anonymous No.2587369]

>>2587356
>but is that worth the effort for the sake of larping?
Probably not, but I wondered how it was done in the past.

[Anonymous No.2587454]

>>2587259
Looks like shit, what's the point?

[Anonymous No.2587457]

>>2587306
This is bait, you didn't even ask a question.

[Anonymous No.2587460]

>>2587360
Lmao, the cope.
>>2587364
Btfo

[Anonymous No.2587464]

>>2587311
>>2587369
Hammer and chisel, it's not as precise though.
>>2587356
>you could grind a special purpose L bit for a router plane, but is that worth the effort for the sake of larping?
Why do people insist on giving autistic answers? Answer the question and keep your opinions to yourself.

[Anonymous No.2587473]

>It has to be fairly long and precise.
>>2587464
>didnt even read the question
>gives shit advice
oh why is the internet full of your kind

[Anonymous No.2587486]

>>2587473
He also asked how people used to do it with hand tools. Keep seething autist.

[Anonymous No.2587493]

>>2587486
they didnt, thats the whole point
fuck this general is dead

[Anonymous No.2587514]

>>2587356
It'll be fine I think
>>2587454
It still has to get worse brushed clean and sealed up tho
>>2587335
How did you find out? Did he post about his death afterwards?

[Anonymous No.2587516]

>>2587236
If you aren't already fried by the time you read this comment think about a few simple safety features.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZ2CQMf1NRc

[Anonymous No.2587530]

>>2587516
Its pretty safe since it's a few feet away when I plug it in. We're testing it out so I can use the method to etch a butcher table I'm building

[Anonymous No.2587531]

>>2587454
The point is they look good if you move the electrodes all over boards soaked in electrolyte fluid. Too bad makers like above aren't going to practice proper isolation. They should have multiple safety dummy switches, minimal probe exposure, and an iso box where work is performed. If you want to run a knife switch and just power your MOT across the room that's all said and good. The guys that run jumper cables or spring clamps lol and want to move the electrodes will get maimed.

[Anonymous No.2587561]

>>2587493
Retard

[Anonymous No.2587696]

>>2587457
Is the dialect here more like /b/ then?
Uh
hey faggot, how do I make wood tiles out of wood that won't fucking kill me or give me splinters when I use it?
Is driftwood or fallen logs from a forest safe?
I already got fucking linseed oil, the most ancient oil for wood in the damn world so don't even fucking start with that.

[Anonymous No.2587702]

https://youtu.be/K4xbH5YIMUE?t=101

At 1:41 he is showing a box that he apparently made in his first year of woodworking.
It looks complex imo, do you think it's a good beginner project?

[Anonymous No.2587747]

>>2587311
It’s easy if you make it in three layers: one bottom, one for wide groove, one for narrow groove. Precision then only depends on how straight and even in thickness you can make your material

>>2587702
> do you think it's a good beginner project?
Video says that first year is 4 days of woodworking school plus 1 day of working in a professional wood shop every week. So after half a year he has say 900 hours of hands-on experience and professional training, access to all the right tools etc and it’s a pretty good project for that. As a first project for a beginner hobbyist I’d say it’s way too complex.

[Anonymous No.2587773]

>>2587696
Just sand it into shape. You literally never asked how to make them, you just said that you wanted to. No one gives a fuck what you're finishing it with, are you looking for recommendations on that too? No finish, no matter the ingredients, is going to poison you unless you're eating it or sticking it up your ass.
>wood that won't fucking kill me or give me splinters when I use it?
Are you using the tiles to make a bridge? How is the wood supposed to kill you? No wood will give you splinters if you sand it down.

[Anonymous No.2587798]

>>2587696
Beeswax has been used much longer than linseed oil

[Anonymous No.2587822]

>>2587696
>>2587457
God damn you're retarded, is sanding a small piece of wood really that hard? This little piece of shit only took me 10mins. You're lucky I have my own project drying and wanted to finish my beer.

[Anonymous No.2587825]

>>2587822
Forgot gif

[Anonymous No.2587916]

>>2585995
Tajimas are pretty standard, I definitely wouldn't call them dogshit. Maybe you had the wrong thread count for what you needed/

I'm 30 and have been doing this for 10 years after attending the NWSWB and staying in Port Townsend. Fine furniture is a much better gig. Far easier on the body and almost no toxic chemicals. The big benefit of being a shipwright is the adventure that can often come with it and being active in the sailing and fishing community. Even after all of that I'm trying to get out of it and do facility maintenance and keep the boat work as a hobby

pic is of my old project. A Tumlaren I rebuilt

[Anonymous No.2587921]

>>2587822
>>2587825
Thanks for showing me. I just got off work myself.

>>2587773
I just didn't know, thanks for telling me.


If either of you actually want a tarot reading, I'll do a Celtic cross spread for you.

[Anonymous No.2588025]

So uhh does anyone have a torrent for Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, or am I expected to spend over a hundred dollars on the books plus import fees because I don't live in America?

[Anonymous No.2588059]

>>2587306
>>2587696
Hi anon, this is a very slow-moving thread on a slow-moving board. Sorry you happened to post right before some agro anon was lurking.
As far as your question / request for guidance I can chime in as an intermediate in the hobby. I'm a few years in and have a good overview of what's out there and can deconstruct most project / furniture to make it on my own.
To make your tiles at a passable level will be more or less complicated depending on the materials chosen and the route you want to take (primarily power tools vs hand tools). Most important though will be the design of the tiles. If you're picturing some multi-faceted perfectly flat tiles that can fit together like the hexagonal tiles from settlers of catan, you will also need to make your own jig(s) to help you get to a final shape. For this post I will assume you're making something like that.

You already have chisels, should I assume you can sharpen them properly? If you can then the cheapest way to get to a point where you can take deadfall wood or driftwood and make something would be to first get the following items:

- a serviceable block plane. The new Jorgensen No 60-1/2 at lowes might be the best deal right now. Don't go cheaper than this. An old stanley 9 1/2 would also be perfect and can often be found locally for under $20. That's what I started with. Anything cheaper / offbrand will be an exercise in frustration and might hinder your whole project.
- A way to cut your wood. This is personal preference. Some people like those new commercial hardened teeth handsaws from the big box stores. If you think you'll keep the hobby I would say get a Ryoba. It's a two-sided pull saw that'll do everything you ask of it. Any of the popular brands are fine.
- Flat material and wood glue to make your jigs. You will need a shooting board to make the wood you cut perfectly square with your block plane. You will also need a jig that will enable you to use your plane to get the tiles to shape.

[Anonymous No.2588060]

>>2588059
- Finally you will need some way of holding your work as you cut it / plane it. If you continue in the hobby you will eventually want a vise, but for now you can do fine with just a single bar clamp. Get one with a screw on it, not with the squeeze mechanism.

Now, for actually making this stuff there's a couple things to note. First you mentioned linseed oil to prevent rot. It won't prevent rot, it will just keep your wood looking nice and keep it from getting dirty from other oils like those on people's hands. It's a good first finish so go ahead and use it, just know that the only thing that prevents rot is keeping wood dry.
Next, when looking for deadfall you need to find dry wood. Trees that have died still standing will often dry out so you should look for either that or freshly fallen trees. In either case, depending on how long ago the tree died it will still be too moist to work with. When you buy wood from a lumber yard it's already dry. Drying your own wood can be a rabbit hole but don't be intimidated. For a first project like this just cut it into planks a bit thicker than what your tiles will be. Like 1.5 times as thick or so. Let it air dry for a few weeks / months. Since you cut it thinner it won't take so long. Drying will cause the wood to warp so you'll use your plane to plane it down flat again.You can use your clamp. Either clamp the wood to a table and plane, or clamp some sort of stop to a table and plane the wood against that stop. The stop should be thinner than your plank.

The main thing with working with rough stock is use a saw to get it close to dimensions, then use the plane to make it perfect. A sharp plane will also eliminate the need for sanding if your technique is good enough. And a first timer can indeed get this result with practice.

Did you need guidance on carving the symbols too or just the tiles? If there's anything I mentioned that you'd like resources / more info on let me know (sharpening / planing / etc).

[Anonymous No.2588065]

>>2587921
You bet your ass I want my tarot reading.

[Anonymous No.2588095]

Finally made myself a marking gauge

[Anonymous No.2588192]

>>2588025
holy fuck you are dumb
sorry anon, reading a real book might be over your head

[Anonymous No.2588197]

>>2588192
excuse me

[Anonymous No.2588237]

>>2587306
Random thoughts:
- Driftwood may be way too porous to finish properly, at least the kind I know. When dry it wants to soak up anything it touches so it turns ugly real fast when handled. You might want a smooth and hard surface instead
- Branches depends on the wood type but if you get a big tree branch and cut it into disks you have end grain for the surface and that might last a while (that is if it doesn’t split while drying). You could cut disks from a branch using a miter box of sorts, and then rub them over sandpaper to get them flat
- Linseed is an okay natural finish but not as resistant as tung oil. It can only be applied in very very thin layers and its scratch resistance isn’t all that, but its cheap and can be touched up with a new coat
- Contrary to popular belief both epoxy and polyurethane coatings are non-toxic and pretty much inert when dry (some are even food safe). Very suitable for coins/runes if you ask me

[Anonymous No.2588279]

>>2588237
Hello anon
Thank you so much for the detailed, multi-post reply. I have saved this information for reference.
I think I can use the chisel set to carve the symbols, first by drawing with a pencil and then scrape a little out in the shape. Is that right?

I will look into wood drying methods over the week. I know of using smoke to do this, but not the full details, I think this may be possible in my situation. There is abundant natural wood here, for a small project like this I shouldn't have an issue getting the wood myself.

I will of course deliver a tarot reading to you, after work, about 9 hours from now. apologizes for making you wait, I had only just remembered to check the thread again as I was getting ready.

[Anonymous No.2588284]

>>2588279
Why not use pebbles or clay?

[Anonymous No.2588309]

>>2588279
You’re responding to two different people, I only made >>2588237

> I think I can use the chisel set to carve the symbols, first by drawing with a pencil and then scrape a little out in the shape. Is that right?
Yes it is. But don’t expect to make clean curves with straight chisels, a pocket knife may work for those

> I will look into wood drying methods over the week.
Good luck, I’ve never really tried it except for just stacking some branches in my house for 8 months. I’ve heard low temperature in an oven works for small pieces but ymmv

> I will of course deliver a tarot reading to you
Leave it for the other anon, i’m too sceptic

[Anonymous No.2588312]

Is there a fool proof way to cut big circles like in pic related? I have a jigsaw but no router

[Anonymous No.2588314]

>>2588312
lathe

[Anonymous No.2588324]

>>2588312
tie jigsaw to string, tie other end to nail, cut circle

[Anonymous No.2588334]

>>2588312
Do you have anything aside from a jigsaw? If you have a table saw you can do it pretty easily, just going to take a good few cuts.

[Anonymous No.2588339]

>>2588312
i can cut good enough circles with a jig saw, and so can you. Best advice is not get too autistic over it and just enjoy crafting.

[Anonymous No.2588363]

>>2588095
Ok?

[Anonymous No.2588364]

>>2588237
>>2588060
>>2588059
Someone snorted an Adderall

[Anonymous No.2588406]

>>2588279
>>2587921
Wheres my reading bitch?

[Anonymous No.2588505]

>>2587079
Gimping, pronounced "jimping".

[Anonymous No.2588507]

>>2588095
I like in anon.

[Anonymous No.2588608]

>>2588406
here
Your current situation: Three of wands
You are at a turning point in life, a new beginning, something you're excited about and a bit nervous. This often indicates a new location is involved, and reminds us that we have the abilities and tools we need to press forward.
Your cross: six pentacles
A card of fair trade, where everyone gets what they needed and they give a fair price for it. As your cross, it means that you struggle with this, giving too much for too little, overpaying in some way.
Outcome/goal: Five of Wands
A card of dueling minds. By debating and practicing against each other they all get stronger. In this position, it is like joining a club with peers, or meeting up with friends who you can have interesting conversation with.
Concern: Two of Wands
A harmonious and balanced relationship, this isn't necessarily a romantic relationship either. It could be a trusted friend who supports you. The position of it here indicates worry about ruining a good thing. The advice of this card is to keep everything in balance, a thing which is easy to say and hard to do.
Past: Magician
This shows you as a master of your own domain, in the past you have used your skillets to advance your own goals and get your desired results.
Near Future: 6 swords
A costly venture. It means that soon you will have to make a hard choice to keep moving. If you are traveling this could be unexpected travel expenses due to issues, check what the travel insurance covers. If you are starting a new project, inspect the tools for flaws and price check anything new you are buying.
General You: Knight of swords
You are full of energy, enough to take on the world. This card appears to encourage that, to make your dreams a reality, to go while the momentum is there. It cautions you not to let eagerness turn into haste. This says you are a very ambitious and driven person.

1/2

[Anonymous No.2588609]

>>2588608
Influences: Queen of Wands
A lady of wisdom is in your life, most likely literally, but has been figurative before. She will give you guidance, direction and even a plan to succeed.
As influence on your life, this lady may steer you in directions you didn't expect, but it is generally for your own good.
Hopes and Fears: Knight of Pentacles
The successful and reliable knight, who earns his coin fairly. This is what you hope to be, and what you fear you cannot be. Everyone wants to have a well paid job that they are able to succeed at, and maybe even enjoy parts of, and sometimes it feels so far away.
A key point about this Knight is that he raised himself up slow and steady by honing skills that were valued.
Outcome: King of Pentacle
The kind and generous king, he has built himself a wealthy and successful life. As your outcome, it means you are headed toward a good life, that your efforts will bring you a life that is stable and lets you help others even. As a king, it means you are in control of your destiny.

Summary:
You are on a good path, it might be lonely right now, but you can make friends who will bring you higher in terms of knowledge and skill. When you funnel your energy into productive projects, you get real results. Your new adventure might have a rocky start, but if you're prepared properly, it will be amazing. Main things to watch out for are overdoing one area of your life/studies and neglecting the others, cutting too many corners and damaging your project, a small accident, setback or inconvenience that slows down but doesn't totally stop you.

thanks again for the help.

[Anonymous No.2588610]

>>2588309
Ah, my mistake then.

>pocket knife
Yea I have a really small one that could probably do it.

>Oven
They are small pieces It would fit in there anyway.
I can post when I decide what to do with it, if you're curious/invested in it now? lul.

And alright, I understand, some people don't like tarot after all.

[Anonymous No.2588613]

>>2588284
No real reason other than I want to try with wood. Trees and I have a special spiritual connection, I live next to a forest, It will work well.

[Anonymous No.2588615]

>>2588609
>>2588608
I always saw this stuff as dumb and on the schizo side of human perception, but as a practiced BCBA for almost 2 decades, I can see the lose connection to modern ABA.

[Anonymous No.2588620]

>>2588615
I take this to mean you liked the reading? This was a really nice set of cards, I have to say, I am a little jealous. My own self reads usually tell me I need to focus on the spiritual and am wasting energy on the material.

[Anonymous No.2588653]

>>2581019
or you could do this move to it so you still got leg room.

[Anonymous No.2588666]

>>2588613
Something you could try is getting a soldering iron and doing dot work using a pointed tip.
I made a sign like that a few years ago, just mark out your design in pencil and then plunge the tip into the wood following the lines, the effect looks pretty good, but practice it before trying for real so you can figure out how deep to go and how long to hold it. if you don't have a soldering iron you can use a nail held with pliers and heated in a candle or fire.
It's a really dead simple process as long as you don't burn yourself you can make very intricate patterns.

[Anonymous No.2588667]

>>2588666
*or you could just follow the pencil with a flat tip and mark it that way both option are pretty good. I just had a weak soldering iron that only had enough power to do dot work

[Anonymous No.2588672]

>>2588667
>>2588666
Apparently this is called pyrography and you can get kits and specialised irons that work better.

[Anonymous No.2588735]

>>2588312
To get cabinetry level cuts I have to use a router.

[Anonymous No.2588774]

Not sure if I should ask this here or metallurgy...
I made a new handle for an old sword I have as the old handle broke. I have an idea to melt down some brass scraps I have laying around and dip the pommel into it to give it a rough brass cap. Will the metal even coat it? Will it just burn the wood off?
Its cherry wood finished with BLO and an oil based stain.

[Anonymous No.2588795]

>>2588314
>>2588324
>>2588334
>>2588339
>>2588735
Thanks for all the replies. I’ll try the rough cut on the jigsaw and use the dremel router attachment to finish the edges (never tried that before though). If the test piece turns out shit I’ll make it an octagon instead

[Anonymous No.2588797]

>>2588774
Brass melts at what 1000C? Your wood will catch fire around 400C. Also why does your toe curve to the right

[Anonymous No.2588816]

>>2588797
I'm sure it will, but I'm wondering how fast it'll burn, and if maybe I can cool it fast enough to keep it from burning completely off.
The one next to the big toe? I've broken most my toes a LOT, so it's probably just grown wrong.

[Anonymous No.2588852]

Anyone know what species this might be? Tree was already cut down so can’t tell you what it looked like. Found in Germany

[Anonymous No.2588861]

>>2588852
definitely wood
a pic of the main stems bark would be more telling

[Anonymous No.2588872]

>>2588861
Sadly all I got from the main stem is short pieces like this one. The bark was pretty thin, smooth with small spots, greenish grey (greyish green?). When I removed it the outer wood was yellow but it turned dark brown like in pic after a few minutes

[Anonymous No.2588875]

>>2588872
i guess its ordinary beech, the outer sections already show signs of fungus which is typical

[Anonymous No.2588876]

>>2588872
>>2588852
I forgot the common name, but the Latin name is "hae nuces"

[Anonymous No.2588881]

>>2588672
>>2588666
>>2588667
>pyrography
Oh, is that's what this is called?
I saw this stuff at renfest and never knew. I called it "wood burning decorations" before

[Anonymous No.2588882]

>>2586110
I like the rounded corners, but it’s not really flush, though, is it? Neither the frame wrt the surrounding board, nor the vent wrt the frame. Can you still adjust the level by shimming the affected corners? Or better yet: make a virtue out of necessity and add the same kind of bevel to all edges that the boards have.

[Anonymous No.2588883]

>>2588797
That's probably just a callus.

[Anonymous No.2588889]

>>2588875
Thanks, doubt it though, all local beach I’ve seen has a different end grain pattern and is a lot harder. Could it be birch by any chance?

>>2588876
thanks

[Anonymous No.2588892]

>>2588889
No problem buddy

[Anonymous No.2588908]

>>2588889
birch has white bark dude.
i have another strong guess but it doesnt fit perfectly. did it grow in someoneones yard? perhabs a foreign subspecies. Is it a dense wood?
>and is a lot harder
fresh wood is never hard

[Anonymous No.2589010]

>>2588852
It's a diffuse porous hardwood, google some images. hard to tell without a closeup.

[Anonymous No.2589020]

>>2588816
>>2588774
you're better off just forming one out of sheet brass. if you want molten metal, you'd use something like pewter and it's poured in some way to cast it around the wood such as for bolster or end cap/chape

[Anonymous No.2589254]

>>2589020
What if he molded it using a rubber form to create a wax mold?

[Anonymous No.2589333]

>>2589254
Possible, but I don't think it is practical for this project, forming sheet brass is a sensible method.

[Anonymous No.2589344]

>>2589333
>>2589254
>>2589020
I wanted to try dipping rather than sheets or molding, because I wanted it to look rough and uneven. But I tried dipping with some scrap wood and it just ran off without sticking. I do appreciate y'all trying to help.

[Anonymous No.2589359]

>>2589344
>wanted it to look rough and uneven.
make it out of sheet metal then beat it up with a ball peen hammer.

[Anonymous No.2589380]

>>2589359
For that extra authentic touch get some 4" galvanised nails and whack them through the side to hold it from falling off.

[Anonymous No.2589584]

i've never done woodworking before but i'm interested in it.
should i spend 200 euros on a weekend woodworking course to see if i like it? or should i go balls deep right away and just start buying tools and materials, probably spending much more?

[Anonymous No.2589589]

>>2589584
I wouldn't pay that much. Don't you people get free college? Can't you take a class at a local college or something?

[Anonymous No.2589597]

>>2589589
i live in the middle of nowhere. the nearest school/college that offers those classes is quite far away, i factored that into the 200 euros

[Anonymous No.2589652]

>>2589597
You could also watch a bunch of YouTube videos. But the class may be worth it if you need an instructor, just make sure to ask plenty of questions and get your money's worth.

[Anonymous No.2589659]

>>2588908
Nah it was in a kind of tiny public park. Now that you mention it the bark definitely wasn’t like birch, much greyer

>>2589584
Could be worth it definitely if you’re new. You can get a quick idea of what’s important and most importantly you can get instant feedback instead of fucking around for hours before finally finding the video that explains something you overlooked.

But it should be given by someone who knows his stuff, and it should be about the general stuff. Theres a nearly €200 class in my area, where you learn to make custom wood laminated earrings from rare hardwoods on a specialty small wood lathe that nobody uses, such a thing would be a waste of money.

But someone explaining step by step how to make a chair or simple drawer cabinet over a weekend that could be worth it

[Anonymous No.2590039]

I’m making a box with a hinged lid. My stock is Pau Ferro at 8mm thick (1/4”). Bit worried about screwing the hinges. Any advice on what screws and how to make them tight but not split the wood? The holes in the hinges are about 3mm diameter but could make them bigger

[Anonymous No.2590043]

>>2590039
Sorry forgot to add pic. Do these screws seem right? And does anyone know how I can get these pins to stay inside the hinge?

[Anonymous No.2590066]

>>2590043
pilot holes the size of the screw without threads, rounded down

[Anonymous No.2590128]

>>2590066
Thanks I’ll try and find that size drill bit then. Also if I do, can I cut off like 3mm off the end so that it won’t protrude? Just fitted it and they seem to be slightly too long once assembled because I had to plane off more of the wood than I had calculated for

[Anonymous No.2590212]

>>2590128
that's already a pretty short screw. Have you considered a rivet or something instead?

[Anonymous No.2590217]

>>2590212
I’ve never really made anything this ‘fine’ before so I’m open to suggestions. It looks like most people use a thicker wood. But I could only get this pretty species in 8mm thick (it’s normally used for guitar fret boards) so I went with it

[Anonymous No.2590397]

>>2579104
Not sure if this is the right thread, but does anyone have any experience painting on charred wood? I work with two very talented artists who have agreed to make me a sign to hang over my bar. I got some absolutely beautiful red cedar I've been sitting on for years which I intend to use for the main body of the sign. It's just full of knots with spectacular grain between them. I am wanting to burn and sand the cedar to really make the grain pop, but I am unsure if this will hinder paint adhesion.

[Anonymous No.2590398]

>>2590217
maybe look into a rivet instead or something else that looks nice on both sides.

[Anonymous No.2590514]

Hello anons, first time posting here. I fucked up gluing some board together for a checkerboard and this end piece is misaligned on one side. Is this salvageable or should I start over? And how would I fix it?

[Anonymous No.2590699]

>>2590397
linsneed paint my dude. can be bought in tiny tubes for art purpose
.the paint adheres wonderfull to cured oil (that you should use as base layer) and charred wood has no problem soaking up blo

[Anonymous No.2591110]

first time doing fence work ourselves and need some help on what's the best nail gun for the job.

brad nailer, finish nailer or power stapler?