/wwg/ - Woodworking General

[Anonymous No.2557534]

Welcome to the woodworking general, here we discuss the working of wood and the tools and techniques of working wood. So far we tend to be mostly hand tool folk with a slant towards cabinetry and carving but all are welcome and we have some capable power tool folk amount our ranks. General carpentry question such as framing/decking/general construction seems to get a better response in the /qtddtot/ or /sqt/.

>essential /wwg/ books
Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places, but the other two are MIA.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561588261

Christopher Schwarz tells you everything you need to know about planes and saws and their use
Handplane Essentials
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440332983
Handsaw Essentials
Best to find this one in PDF from the usual sources, out of print and pricey!

Chris Pye wrote the book on carving and keeps on writing them.
https://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/

The Eastern tradition, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0941936465

Leonard Lee The Complete Guide to Sharpeninig, how to sharpen most everything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561581259

Bob Flexner - Finishing 101, covers the common stuff, his other books cover the uncommon and go into more depth
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440308454/

Illustrated Cabinet Making by Bill Hylton, learn to design furniture that won't fall apart
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565233697/

>essential /wwg/ tv
https://www.pbs.org/show/woodwrights-shop/
https://www.newyankee.com/

[Anonymous No.2557535]

The USDA publishes the Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material, has some good info in it but the bulk of it is beyond what most woodworkers need and it is primarily concerned with wood used in construction so most of the info dealing with strength and the like would result in massive overkill. PDF is free to download from their site but getting an old edition for a couple dollars used is probably a better idea for most, less of the old editions is dedicated to things of no use to the woodworker, 1980s editions have a good balance. The section which deal with the structure and quality of wood/trees, how they grow and what that means to the woodworker is good knowledge to have.

wood-database.com is useful and may be all you need.

[Anonymous No.2557551]

>>2557534
is it feasible to build an office chair to replicate picrelated out of wood? i have lots of wood and free time so i wanted to see if this could be accomplished before buying a $400 chair. dont care if its ugly as long as its functional. using a stool at my desk right now and its killing my ability to stay at my desk for long periods to study

[Anonymous No.2557555]

>>2557551
If you're under 200lbs, probably. Get some nice thin sheets and laminate them into the shape you want.

[Anonymous No.2557559]

>>2557551
Possible if you have the skills. You don’t have the skills though or else you wouldn’t be asking. Just buy the chair.

[Anonymous No.2557578]

why did you people try to meme me into cutting dovetails by hand when it's braindead easy with a router?

[Anonymous No.2557582]

>>2557578
Because it's about the journey, not the destination.

[Anonymous No.2557583]

>>2557578
It’s usually just poorfag cope. There’s absolutely no reason to cut dovetails by hand these days but poorfags will cope with being poor by spouting memes like “muh life skills” or “muh tradition”.

[Anonymous No.2557587]

>>2557582
the fun parts of the journey are planing and finishing and joints that fit correctly

[Anonymous No.2557589]

>>2557587
That's my least favorite part after ripping by hand. I like cutting joints and getting joints to fit by hand just feels so nice. To each his own and all that.

[Anonymous No.2557602]

>>2557578
sovl vs soulless
just skip the router and go ikea already

[Anonymous No.2557649]

>>2557583
Why not just buy some stuff with dovetails then. I don’t care about how anyone make them but the people saying “you have to use hand tools” and the people saying “hand tools are for poorfags only” are both equally autistic imo

[Anonymous No.2557664]

I just got my first hand plane. Why didn’t you assholes tell me how satisfying this is?

[Anonymous No.2557676]

>>2557664
Cool plane. I don’t know who really manufactures these, but mine is exactly the same except it has a different logo engraved. Would definitely recommend tho, they are ten times better than the cheap modern ‘Stanley’ ones with the black plastic handle, at only $10 more

[Anonymous No.2557685]

>>2557583
the only things i cope are the tail and pin wastes.

[Anonymous No.2557713]

How many years of woodworking experience do you need to make convincing rococo furniture? I want my house to look like a nobleman's house but I don't have 5 figures to drop on furniture...
I have a circular saw and a miter saw, but nothing capable of cutting curves.

[Anonymous No.2557716]

>>2557713
from what ive seen on youtube, 3 years of training, another year for the master title, 5 years experience in period correct restaurateur buiseness

[Anonymous No.2557729]

>>2557713
Define convincing
If you had a big ass cnc router you could learn to make a lot of the parts easily but some people may be able to see that it’s not “real”.

You could also buy the ornaments online and glue them onto simpler made stuff. But it can already take a year or more to learn to build a pretty basic hardwood cabinet so it won’t be easy.

If you want to diy the correct shapes, joinery, finishes, ornaments etc in the right woods then 5+ years

[Anonymous No.2557737]

>>2557713
are you going to use traditional joinery and boulle for them?
hand carved ornaments with period-correct tools and materials?
designing your own furnitures or just making inferior replicas of existing pieces?
would it convince specialists working museums or just the average weeaboo who has more exposure to fantasy aristocrat furnitures? (You)

[Anonymous No.2557739]

Update on wardrobe:
after holidays I may go to a woodstore and get big planks to work with.
The shidded wood may eventually be restored to its old position as table

[Anonymous No.2557755]

>>2557578
All of woodworking with handtools is working to a line, once you get the skill down all hand tool work is brain dead easy.
>>2557583
I have a router and everything needed for cutting dovetails with that router, I still almost always cut them by hand. Some dovetails are also not possible to do with a router.
>>2557713
You will be spending 5 figures on the wood for such furniture unless your house is a tiny house. You can't go cheap on the wood for such furniture. The cheapest way to do this would be to work on your restoration skills and fix up old neglected stuff which tends to be cheap when you can find it.

[Anonymous No.2557792]

>>2557713
I had to look up recoco furniture. Holy shit that’s vomit-inducing ugly. This shit is for people with more money than taste.

[Anonymous No.2557797]

I can’t even make a basic fucking mallet without fucking up

[Anonymous No.2557799]

>>2557755
>All of woodworking with handtools is working to a line, once you get the skill down all hand tool work is brain dead easy.
and guitar playing is just pushing down the right strings and weightlifting is just picking up the bar

[Anonymous No.2557801]

>>2557799
And you going about your daily life is just sucking my dick.

[Anonymous No.2557898]

How does one do the woodworking without the space for said woodworking?

[Anonymous No.2557903]

>>2557898
Spent half your available free time moving things around and re organizing.

[Anonymous No.2557908]

>>2557898
I’m using a roughly 4’x6’ room with a 4’x3’ bench. Inside the house so almost no power tools. Store everything in small boxes on wall shelves, just take out one or two boxes with the tools I need at a time. Clean up after every step (which is good practice anyway).
So take out saws, saw stuff, store saws, vacuum, take out planes, plane stuff, etc. It’s okay for making some nice small things but too small to build a table top.
Get a bench top drill press is light and small enough to put away underneath the bench

[Anonymous No.2557936]

How hard of a project like pic be? I've built a few sheds (one lean-to, another with a standard roof) but nothing with one of these pure wooden joinery.
I'd probably use wooden shingles, just cause that's what I can produce at home.

I mean I've never built anything with 4x4" beams, I don't think my circular can cut past 3" so I'd probably have to handsaw it

[Anonymous No.2557939]

>>2557898
there are low workbenches that you can disassemble and put away very neatly.
or you can learn japanese woodworking where they just work on the floor with a large board of wood.
smart use of tool racks and shelves.

[Anonymous No.2557958]

How can I give my most recent timewaster a decent handle with barely any tools? I have multiple sandpaper grits, a knife and BLO

[Anonymous No.2557959]

>>2557958
jfc just stick that wittled stick up your butthole and then throw it away

that will leave a nice stain

[Anonymous No.2557961]

>>2557959
Don't ruin my inner child's dreams like this

[Anonymous No.2557967]

Continuation of building garden beds out of oak.

Based on advice from /wwg/ about better rot prevention, i planed and sanded these rough cut boards a bit. I couldn’t easily get all the cut lines out, but at some point said “good enough”

Looking at the 4 boards I did, I’m worried it will look like I cut up a fucking oak dinner table. I like seeing the grain, but it’s gonna look weird as fuck in the garden.

I’m tempted to oxide the other boards a bit before I oil them. Thoughts?

But then the beds won’t match and goddamn it I hate making things.

[Anonymous No.2557968]

>>2557961
Ok im sorry

Cut a spiral groove and inlay a dark string or wire into it, make the ends of the handle fully wrapped

[Anonymous No.2557969]

>>2557958
I’m assuming this is some gay Harry potter wand or something for larping. You can do a decent handle with leather twine cord etc. google how to wrap knife handle.

Here is a sword one. Check out the shammy methods at the bottom of page.

https://www.sword-buyers-guide.com/sword-handle-wrap.html

[Anonymous No.2557972]

>>2557534
I've started doing some basic joinery (cross lap joints for now). I find it hard to eliminate the gaps, as my wood likes to chip off (when trying to flatten a face by scraping with chisel, chisel edge parallel to the grain). I'm using some construction lumber, probably pine, 21x21mm. It feels like it has some areas of significantly higher density (often with visibly darker colour) and that's where issues happen. Should I:
(a) try different wood, perhaps some hardwood
(b) practice with bigger lumber
(c) git gut

Going to finish the current project using the wood I have anyway, it's not that bad that I wouldn't use it (making stands for desktop speakers).

[Anonymous No.2557973]

>>2557972
Oh, I should probably add I'm only using hand tools.

[Anonymous No.2557975]

>>2557968
Then, jam it up your ass

[Anonymous No.2558000]

>>2557799
Nah, failed analogies. You could make the case if design was included but I clearly was not talking about design.

[Anonymous No.2558002]

Morrowind fag here, how hard would it be to jury rig a tiny steam box to coil a piece of wood for chimes like in picrelated?

[Anonymous No.2558003]

>>2558002
to add on: would I be better off coiling the wood then trimming it into the desired shape, or shaping it while straight first and then coiling it?

[Anonymous No.2558004]

>>2557898
In the winter I do most of my wood working in my house which is quite small at 400 square feet (old guest cottage), working with handtools makes it fairly easy to contain the mess, just keep the vacuum handy and suck up the dust regularly. I do most of the work on a saw bench about 34" long and 18" high, tool box sits on the shelf below it when not in use. When I need to do a lot of saw work like resawing I go outside, the work keeps me warm.
>>2558002
Easy. Zip tie some tubing onto the spout of a tea kettle, run the other end of the tube to some sort of box to hold the steam and the wood, some PVC, a couple end caps and a barb or an end cap and a few reducers. Steam boxes are easy.

[Anonymous No.2558006]

>>2558002
>>2558002
>Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places


the pdf has a steam chapter

[Anonymous No.2558009]

>>2557972
They are called summer wood (harder, darker) and spring wood (lighter softer). The difference between them makes it really difficult to make flat faces in pine. Making your cutting tools razor sharp can help but taking a cheap hardwood would be easier. Also, pine shrinks and warps a lot so it may fit today but have gaps tomorrow

[Anonymous No.2558010]

>>2557958
Paracord wrap, some patterns are pretty nice.

[Anonymous No.2558011]

>>2557936
If you can get the footings perfectly level and the upright beams vertical (which may be a challenge), should not be too difficult. Joints don’t need to be perfect on this, and a hand saw will do fine

[Anonymous No.2558107]

>>2558009
I tried reading Tage Fried. Shit was boring. It felt like I was studying for a college exam. I’d rather just build shit.

[Anonymous No.2558176]

>>2558009
Thanks anon, I'll try searching for hardwood for the next project.

>Also, pine shrinks and warps a lot so it may fit today but have gaps tomorrow
Indeed my joints that were tight couple days ago are pretty loose now. Oh well, I'll make it hold together.

[Anonymous No.2558242]

Just bought a set of these at Lowes. Are they okay for fine woodworking?

[Anonymous No.2558246]

what's your go-to hardwood for hidden but structural components? Or do you just deal with construction lumber as long as it's hidden?

[Anonymous No.2558248]

This sounds simple, but if anyone has difficulties working wood, before you do anything else, sharpen your tools. Made a huge difference adjusting sharpening angles on a 120 grit equivalent belt, especially with difficult woods like Xylia.

[Anonymous No.2558254]

>>2558242
People love to hate on them but I still have my set and still use them despite having chisels which are supposedly much better. Turned them into butt chisels awhile back with some new handles. Not great for chopping in harder woods but quite good for paring, have become my goto for paring anytime I don't need length. They hate red oak but that is ok since so do I and so do most tools.
>>2558246
Poplar. These days a quality plywood is more common for hidden structural.

[Anonymous No.2558267]

Do you americans have any coppice culture?

[Anonymous No.2558269]

>>2558246
Balsa

[Anonymous No.2558271]

>>2558267
Not really. We have enough land and forests that we don't have much use for it. I am sure it is done in some places on the small scale.

[Anonymous No.2558283]

>>2558002
You need wooden tubes that will resonate when struck. I don’t think rolling will get you that. Why are you using wood and not bamboo, or some other pre existing reed? Are you planning to tune them?

2vsgyr

[Anonymous No.2558298]

>>2558283
He's asking about the spiral band that encircles the ropes holding the reeds.

[Anonymous No.2558358]

>>2558246
Ply for something that needs to be really cheap
Bangkirai / Yellow balau if it needs to be cheap ish but strong
Azobe if it needs to be really strong or for outside

The latter two also because they are some of the cheapest hardwoods where I live

[Anonymous No.2558377]

>>2558271
I was thinking of traditional specialist coppice products like poles?

[Anonymous No.2558387]

>>2558377
I know. Most construction in the US outside of cities proper requires cutting down trees, add on top of that tree farming and the lumber industry and we have plenty. We mostly use confifers for poles and the like which dont coppice, we just plant them or cut them wild. The majority are probably planted at this point with the rest being trees that need to come down to access more valuable lumber or come down because of construction projects.

[Anonymous No.2558489]

anyone make their own wooden bodied hand planes and the irons?
i'm planning on making a toothing plane. making the blade myself. been practicing with hand cutting the teeth with a chisel and hammer, similar to how files are cut, but having problem. can anyone confirm if the orientation on the cuts are always slanted like files or are they sometimes even? engraving seems easier.

[Anonymous No.2558500]

>>2558489
I have made planes and irons. Teeth on a toothing iron run the length of the blade and are parallel. generally they are just cut in with an abrasive disc.

[Anonymous No.2558541]

>>2558500
supposedly traditional ones are cut by punching a chisel, the same way that traditional files are cut but with the grooves parallel along the blade.

[Anonymous No.2558598]

>>2557797
Post mallet

[Anonymous No.2558620]

so I'm being that newbie who's afraid to start making cuts but it gave me a chance to think through my design more and while it's much more elaborate than my initial idea it's hopefully still beginner-friendly. I've watched and read plenty about each individual technique but I couldn't find any info on planning final assembly. Any other advice?

[Anonymous No.2558623]

>>2558620
>paper
Learn SketchUp pussie

[Anonymous No.2558659]

>it's another "drove a splinter into the skin under my fingernail" session

[Anonymous No.2558661]

>>2558620
Plan where the inaccuracies go and write down a work order from there.

For example your case the 2 horizontal middle beams need to be exactly parallel in the half lap joints but you can easily make them shorter on the outsides afterwards. Likewise the outer aprons need to be exactly to length to make it square but the position of the dowels can be off a bit as nobody would notice. Obviously don’t try to make all individually, make part of the construction to serve as reference and measure additional parts from there.

> beginner-friendly
Did you try long sliding dovetails before? Wouldn’t call them very beginner friendly (a dado in the uprights and maybe dowels would be a lot easier) otherwise it looks fine

[Anonymous No.2558708]

>>2558541
Sure, I was not talking traditional. Traditionally it depends on who was doing it, I have seen ones that were cut with a file. The only ones I have seen done with a chisel are the fine sort meant for veneer work but I have only seen maybe half a dozen pre-industrialization toothing blades. All of the later ones I have seen were cut in with a saw.

[Anonymous No.2558769]

Why does OSB have better sheer strength?

[Anonymous No.2558777]

>>2558661
>Did you try long sliding dovetails before? Wouldn’t call them very beginner friendly (a dado in the uprights and maybe dowels would be a lot easier) otherwise it looks fine
my first thought was a castle joint. Is that easier? I have been practicing dovetails and I think if I cut all the grooves first then try scrap until it's perfect, every real cut after should be right if I lock in the setting.

[Anonymous No.2558780]

>>2558598
Here. You can tell the handle isn’t square to the head and the angles don’t match on the ends.

[Anonymous No.2558783]

>>2558777
Castle joints by hand are more difficult than dovetails imo. Dovetails don’t have to be very hard but they do get more tedious the longer you make them

>>2558769
Plywood will break along the aligned grains while osb has grains in all directions. I don’t think the table takes into account in which direction shear stress is applied (I’d say ply has higher shear resistance cross grain while osb has the same in all directions)

[Anonymous No.2558784]

>>2558783
so shear strength would be highest along the diagonal for ply?

[Anonymous No.2558827]

>>2558780
> handle isn’t square to the head
Good because your wrist angle isn’t normally square to the surface/tool either

> angles don’t match on the ends
Good for hitting chisels at different angles

7/10 mallet imo.

For next one I’d recommend doing the taper the other way round, making the top of the handle wider than the bottom. Much easier to make construction and no wedge makes it easier to correct or replace the handle or head.

>>2557797
> basic fucking mallet without fucking up
The only fuck up is you didn’t correct it when you saw it was off. You could have planed the angles to match each other, or planed the top and bottom to be square to the handle when you found out. Yet you decided to assemble it anyway (or didn’t check) which may be perfectly reasonable (all my mallets have flaws because they are practice projects normally)

[Anonymous No.2558843]

>>2558783
>by hand
I have a table saw and a router. It's mainly a question of if it's harder to make a 5" cut for the castle vs keeping the router perfectly square to the end of the long boards.

[Anonymous No.2558868]

>>2558489
>cuts are always slanted like files or are they sometimes even?
can you do a drawing what exactly you want to know? i thing i have a pretty old iron, should be prewar

[Anonymous No.2558870]

Trying to ID trim wood to replace some pieces but having some trouble. I thought it was just cheap white pine boards but the stuff at HD has massive grain spacing unlike this. Has wood gotten that shitty in 35y or is it something else.
Of course I already bought the wood so I may just run it.

[Anonymous No.2558877]

>>2558780
>You can tell the handle isn’t square to the head and the angles don’t match on the ends
It's a fucking hammer, just use the damn thing, Jesus Christ. Let me use it for a few days, there will be a whole lot more fucked up with it than the angles not matching on the ends..

It's a hammer. You beat on shit with it

[Anonymous No.2558895]

>>2558784
Just use plywood man, OSB is shit. Never once in my life have I used plywood and thought "I shoulda used OSB instead." Meanwhile, every single damn time I've used OSB I've thought "plywood would have been better.." and a few times ".. at least I saved a few bucks though"

[Anonymous No.2558932]

>>2557551
>>2557559
this
and ur gonna need some nicefuckin wood.

[Anonymous No.2558933]

>>2557589
>nothing as perfectly zen and planking by hand.

[Anonymous No.2558934]

>>2558895
I didn't ask that question, I'm not sure whose you are replying to but it isn't related to mine.

[Anonymous No.2558936]

>>2557551
steam bent frame chair?

[Anonymous No.2558939]

>>2557797
keep trying
>my second mallet was much better than my first.

[Anonymous No.2558940]

>>2557898
i used a spare bedroom but wife got mad cause sawdust was on everything...
then two years later i built something myself. 12x20x8

[Anonymous No.2558945]

>>2557972
>) try different wood, perhaps some hardwood
i found yardsales and thrift stores to be odd places to get some cheap random woods.

[Anonymous No.2558946]

hey guys, i posted in the last thread but it was at the end of it and looks like it's gone now.

i'm a piece of shit pallet wood goblin, and I need help identifying some wood I pulled. it's extremely fibrous. giving off long wispy fibers when coarsely sanded, and it very lightweight.

can anyone help me identify it? i don't have a clue what it is.

[Anonymous No.2558947]

>>2558946

this is what it looked like when i pulled it off, before working it.

[Anonymous No.2558967]

>>2558870
If you’re sure it’s pine could be old growth, pic related. I’m not sure if anyone sells it legally

[Anonymous No.2559010]

>>2558784
Haven’t really tested it but think it’s safe to assume so. I have broken a lot of it and it normally breaks along one of the grain lines and delaminates along the other, giving a kind of ragged edge pattern. I’m not really sure if it matters a lot in practice though: under sustained pressure or impacts it tends to slowly delaminate instead of breaking right off at shear limit. Once delaminating it acts a bit like a leaf spring (or trampoline) and there won’t be a lot of shear stress as it deforms so I see little real world applications where it would fail under pure shear

[Anonymous No.2559016]

>>2558870

[Anonymous No.2559023]

>>2559010
How might you est it? cut squares of plywood and trap them in a vice and try to yank them sideways?

[Anonymous No.2559026]

>>2559023
Check out Mathias Wandel on YouTube. He tests a lot of wood and joints and stuff, in most videos I’ve seen he uses an hydraulic jack and a scale for controlled pressure

[Anonymous No.2559030]

>>2558489
check out paul sellers on youtube.

[Anonymous No.2559035]

>>2558967
I am not sure it's pine I just figured thats what would be most likely.
>>2559016
Pdf?

[Anonymous No.2559039]

>>2559026
I know the guy but I'm not sure how applicable it is to an osb board, there are a couple of possible shear directions to figure in, like linear, horizontal or torsional
but a vise, a crank chain and a spring gauge might do it

[Anonymous No.2559059]

>>2558870
Looks like pine with a couple decades on it to turn it a nice orange. That color is very difficult to match in anyway but with age. HD sells cheap farmed wood for cheap, go to a proper lumber yard if you want something better.
>>2558967
Old growth is not difficult to get.

[Anonymous No.2559079]

>>2558708
my bad. i should have specified i'm more into traditional tools. i have even tried it with a scratch stock before but it was slow.
>>2559030
already know about his poor man's toothing plane. want to make a really special one that's nicer than a tool should be.
>>2558868
these videos show more clearly what i mean with illustrations. the thumbnail on the second one shows a profile that is similar to rip saw teeth. i know that this same way of cutting the grooves was done on antique toothing irons, but i wonder if there were other groove cutting procedures of the same time period as the antique irons that would necessarily produce different geometries (such as an even /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ rather than slanted /l/l/l/l/l/l). it's hard to tell from pictures.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_YOjhOQXBE
https://youtu.be/QzkuIElUlQM?t=91
from my experience so far, having the softened steel on top of a soft metal like tin or lead, supported by a steel plate and pounded over the portion of the bench directly over a leg allows the chisel to bite deeper.
looking close my chisel geometry is somewhat wrong. more like a blunt chisel. i'll fix it and try again later.

i'm still not sure if i want it to be coarse or fine. does anyone have experience with using different coarseness for different tasks?

[Anonymous No.2559096]

>>2559079
>i'm still not sure if i want it to be coarse or fine. does anyone have experience with using different coarseness for different tasks?
Fine is for veneer work, the grooves just provides somewhere for excess glue and trapped air to go when veneering, makes the hammer work much easier. Coarse takes the place of scrub/jack planes for difficult grains which the scrub and jack would cause massive tear out in but the fine mouthed smooth is too slow. Toothing planes are not very useful beyond those two niche uses and not really worth having unless you need to glue down some large sheets of veneer in the old way or work a large slab of burl without power tools. Modern glues and power sanders have almost completely replaced the toothing plane even for hand tool purists, planing burl and other highly confused grain is slow and not much fun.

Toothing planes don't really have tooth geometries, would serve no purpose.

[Anonymous No.2559138]

>2559096
every cutting tool has geometry that is specific to how they are made or prepared. whether it would matter is another thing and depends on the user.
the few specific cases where it would matter are for specific period-accurate restoration, reproduction, originals, and for experimental archaeology, even though the surfaces won't be visible. some are interested in history and just want to own historically accurate tools.
actually, i'd be interested in knowing if toothing planes were used before 1700s, such as in the medieval and renaissance era. so far i have not seen confirmation.

[Anonymous No.2559151]

I am building a small bookcase for my children and I want to put X braces on the ends of each shelf. I drove myself crazy eyeballing the proper cuts and angles because I am not sure how to figure it out mathematically. Also I am working with pallet wood so everything is not perfectly square. Just before posting here I did another google search and came across this video (pic related) showing this app this guy created to calculate these angles. Is this legit? How do you guys measure these cuts and angels when trying to make an X brace?

[Anonymous No.2559153]

>>2557551
tell me what city you are in, and I will find you a good chair less than $200.

[Anonymous No.2559164]

>>2558248
>>2557664
>>2557676

I hate sharpening my hand planes. It seems after I do, I have to spend an hour adjusting everything until it cut correctly again.

[Anonymous No.2559187]

>>2559151
Remember when you blew off geometry class, thinking you'd never need that shit?

Yeah.

[Anonymous No.2559195]

>>2559151
I can solve with trig or hold pieces up and trace the angle.

[Anonymous No.2559196]

and I'm not getting the scientific calculator out for farmhouse furniture.

[Anonymous No.2559200]

>>2559187
NTA but I double majored in math and physics and I still can’t ever get shit to line up properly

[Anonymous No.2559207]

>>2559200
Is it cutting accuracy? measuring parallax? Do you kerf your cuts on the wrong side?

[Anonymous No.2559216]

>>2559151
trace one brace with the frame. trace the other or make another identical.
dry fit one of them halfway. dry fit the other one halfway over the first one. trace.

[Anonymous No.2559218]

>>2559207
Nah, it’s mostly that I have trouble cutting things to the exact dimension I need, lining stuff up by eye, and paying attention to which side I’m supposed to keep

[Anonymous No.2559277]

>>2559164
You’ll get better over time. You get a feel for how much to turn the adjusters. Make sure your process is exactly the same every time, use a test piece of eg 1” pine. I always go ‘from zero’ so if I overshoot, I set it back to sole level and repeat so that the adjustment is always in the same direction. This corrects for backlash/slack in all the parts.

[Anonymous No.2559329]

>>2559164
are you worrying about getting the shavings really thin? i find beginners tend to get bogged down on trying to achieve this, when it would be better to have another plane do most of the flattening and shaping work. this means less time trying adjusting the fine plane, less shavings done by the blade, and less sharpening.
of course, this means getting another plane or two.

[Anonymous No.2559331]

>>2559138
The actual geometry does not matter in a toothing blade, increasing rake angle of the tooth or the like will not change anything, all that matters is the amount of the blade which remains, the size of the tooth, not the geomatry of that tooth. The tooth geometry is ultimately square as far as the wood is concerned, the gullets may change in shape depending on how they were cut but this has no effect on how the blade cuts since the gullets do not carry dust/shavings away like in a saw tooth or a file tooth, the blade just does not cut where the gullets are.

Toothing plane almost certainly goes back to at least the 1600s, it was fairly common by the mid 1700s, unlikely it came into existence and got widespread use in a few decades. I have a vague memory that before the toothing blade came about they used to just chip out the teeth from the edge; downside of this being after a few sharpening you would have to redo the teeth but it would be cheap and something the cabinet maker could do himself or have his apprentice do. But few cabinet makers would have had need of a toothing plane, the things it is used for are the things only the richest could afford back then.

[Anonymous No.2559360]

How would one call this rounded corner thing? They are made out of square stock (rather than bent) right?

I have some pay ferro I want to make a similar box out of, but haven’t decided on splined miters or something more fancy like this. I only have thin strips tho (5mm)

[Anonymous No.2559380]

in a post and beam construction, they would be the post. in a stile and rail construction they would be the stile. the joinery are often very similar, with the difference that post and beam are terms used in the context of load bearing structures. whether it assumes a name different to stile when the joinery is not frame (consisting of rail and stile) and panel (usually floating and secured in grooves), i'm not sure. it could be the entire boards are called rails in this case. i have heard the apron attaching to the table leg in essentially the same joinery referred to as the rail.
yes, it is square.

[Anonymous No.2559382]

>>2559360
in a post and beam construction, they would be the post. in a stile and rail construction they would be the stile. the joinery are often very similar, with the difference that post and beam are terms used in the context of load bearing structures. whether it assumes a name different to stile when the joinery is not frame (consisting of rail and stile) and panel (usually floating and secured in grooves), i'm not sure. it could be the entire boards are called rails in this case. i have heard the apron attaching to the table leg in essentially the same joinery referred to as the rail.
yes, it is square.

[Anonymous No.2559393]

Wwg laughed at my first mallet so here’s my second better mallet. I hope to pass the mallet test some day.

[Anonymous No.2559396]

>>2559393
What the fuck is this?

[Anonymous No.2559400]

>>2557967
Bail on this project and use the boards for something else. Get some eastern or western cedar for your flower beds. Relax, woodworking is fun.

[Anonymous No.2559401]

>>2558246
You are talkign about secondary woods. Here in North America, especially Canada and northern states we have access to clear White Pine, that and poplar make great secondary woods for drawer construction and interior framing.

[Anonymous No.2559402]

>>2558661
Yeah, bail on the sliding dovetails for a corner joint, too difficult. This joint is perfect for a haunched tenon, good practice, you can dowel if you want.

[Anonymous No.2559403]

>>2559401
white pine doesn't move too much in comparison to primary hardwood? Wasn't sure if mixing them was safe.

[Anonymous No.2559404]

>>2558967
Pine, Red, White, or Jack Pine? It's not White Pine which of the three is fine for some furniture, the rest is construction lumber, those look likek Red Pine.

[Anonymous No.2559405]

>>2559402
I'm leaning towards something like this now but I can find any other examples of this kind of double cutout castle joint.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=aXsogyxbBm8&t=109

[Anonymous No.2559406]

>>2559403
Perfectly fine and preferable to mix them, get clear pine, should not be difficult at all. I get some great white pine from a local hardware store, cheap, very stable and easy to work with. I am making a Black Cherry and maple kitchen table. The interior framing and drawer sides are clear straight White Pine, and it's great for cutting dovetails.

[Anonymous No.2559408]

I’m planning on buying some parallel clamps for making cutting boards. The 24” clamps would be more than enough for this purpose but I’m thinking of spending the extra money and getting the 48” clamps in case I need the extra length for clamping future projects. Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.2559410]

>>2559405
I've been doing WW for 40+ years and made many tables. I use a mortise and tenon joint for the corners, depending on the style I peg with dowels. Not sure why you would want this other joint unless it's a personal challenge. I collect old period design books and replicate old methods, gives you a classic look and very functional.

[Anonymous No.2559413]

>>2559408
I have many different lengths depending on the project. If the clamp is too long it will need to be balanced if there is too much overhang. I like to minimize overhang. Remember to alternate your clamps, start in the middle and work out, the centre should be in compression, so slightly convex.

[Anonymous No.2559414]

>>2559413
Correction, concave.

[Anonymous No.2559416]

>>2559400
Thanks, but Way too many hours invested, plus I grabbed all this oak that I’ve cut to size and worked on. Need the first bed done tomorrow.

All my hobbies stress me out, just how I am

[Anonymous No.2559418]

>>2559410
I'm worried about the finished piece being too big to fit through my doors. It will be 42" wide and 36" tall. If the legs can be removable with a castle joint that makes it significantly easier to move and store.

[Anonymous No.2559420]

>>2559418
Yeah, that is a key consideration, I have never had a problem angling the tables in before through a standard door. That is a very tall table though, standard height for kitchen/side tables is 30-31"

[Anonymous No.2559424]

>>2559420
The table has a large inner cavity which will make the bottom of it lower than usual compared to the top. I'm also a big guy so in order to not be banging my knees on it all the time I'm building it high at least to start with. I might trim it shorter but again all the more reason for removable legs.

[Anonymous No.2559425]

>>2559416
There is some very good exterior deck finish I use for landscaping projects available at Home Depot. The trick will be corner joints that do not come apart with changing temp and humidity, dovetails would be perfect, but take time, tools, and lots of practice. You could screw together with deck screws that are counter sunk and filled with a plug.
This is the one I use, can get similar from any hardware store.

[Anonymous No.2559429]

>>2559396
Please enlighten me with the secret to making an acceptable mallet

[Anonymous No.2559430]

>>2559079
ok now i get it.
my prewar steiner very clearly has a |\|\|\|\|\|\|\ profile, possible even slight negative rake with 25 PPI. Obviously made on a file hammer machine, not by hand
from using mine i would not go more coarse, the main task of a toothing plane is (going diagonal to the grain from both sides) a, roughing up a surface and b, scraping gunk off. works fantastic here

In a historical context they regularly toothed their beech slab benches to get dried glue off and increase friction, old cabinet maker here never oiled their work surfaces.
Same as when veneering, prepped coarse surface prevents shit from sliding when you do hammer veneering, and after it dried they scraped of the glue so a scraper can do quick work smoothing it.

[Anonymous No.2559436]

>>2559164
if it takes an hour to adjust there is something really wrong with that plane

[Anonymous No.2559540]

>>2559429
Generally mallets have a striking face parallel to the handle, so force will be directed towards the target rather than… not towards the target. But I’m sure you have some obscure use case here you’re waiting to spring on us with a smug look.

[Anonymous No.2559578]

What goes into high end cabinets?
After watching every episode of Scuffed Realtor he's always going on about how shitty the cabs are even in these high end houses just from a glance.
My house has low ornamentation, square trim everywhere, no crown molding, no window grilles etc so I am leaning towards a shaker or craftsman style. How do you distinguish high quality in simple designs? Does it just come down to wood thickness and quality?

[Anonymous No.2559579]

>>2559540
I don’t want to look smug at all but I just got that idea from YouTube people desu. The theory is that the striking face is parallel to the work face without having to rotate the wrist beyond a comfortable angle when tapping a chisel. I’ll have to see if it turns out to be true

[Anonymous No.2559580]

>>2559578
There are no good cabinets. Cal closets is the high end cabinet in almost every rich gags he and they're barely better than ikea.

[Anonymous No.2559585]

What's the point of getting good at woodworking when the more I learn the more critical I become about furniture? Before learning to work wood I thought that I had nice furniture but now I can see that my furniture is cheap compressed sawdust covered in fake wood-patterned laminate from Ikea. Isn't knowledge supposed to make life easier not harder?

[Anonymous No.2559590]

>>2559585
>. Isn't knowledge supposed to make life easier not harder?

Goodness no. Where did you get such a ridiculous notion?

>eat of the of tree of knowledge
>you will know suffering
>you will know sin
>you will die
>you will know pain

[Anonymous No.2559607]

>>2559580
>Painting cabinets
>Those shiny panel doors
Someone will pay for this.

[Anonymous No.2559635]

>>2559578
Make a simple wall cabinet and you will know. Quality cabinets are solid wood, not just the frame, have correct joinery, and correct structural design. The frame can be quality 3/4 plywood, the face frame solid wood with mortise and tenon joints, but I've used biscuits or dowels, and pocket screws. The drawers are dovetailed (half in the front and full in the back) on wooden rails. Shelves are dadoed into the side frame. The finish brings out the natural qualities of the wood. Get a design book on Shaker furniture and it's all in there.

[Anonymous No.2559650]

>>2559635
My plan was to construct them entirely of solid white oak to avoid the use of plywood and veneers; dovetailed and dadod drawers like you mentioned; and find a nice stain to show the natural beauty of oak.
What thickness should the drawer/cabinet bottoms be?
I'll get a design book. Need to figure out if a wide quarter sawn, book matched door with rift sawn face frames would look good.

[Anonymous No.2559658]

>>2559429
I've made dovetailed mallets, pic is one before I shaped the handle.

[Anonymous No.2559665]

>>2559650
Stiles and rails not face frame*

[Anonymous No.2559679]

>>2559650
If I an not making an accurate reproduction I use white pine or poplar with the edges tapered for the bottom of the drawer, ensure it is loose. If I don't care I use 1/4 poplar ply. Rip a dado in the drawer sides.
Book matched oak (or anything) will improve the look, but add to complexity, you are now gluing two pieces together rather than a single piece.
Oak is ring porous, so you will have a lot of open pores to fill so decide if you are using a filler or not to get a smooth finish. This might not matter if you are going for an oiled/waxed satinish finish, which is my personal preference. This is not as much an issue with White Oak vs Red Oak, but still a consideration

[Anonymous No.2559689]

>>2559585
Knowing woodworking prevents you from buying a shitty cabinets for more than their worth

[Anonymous No.2559690]

>>2559658
Looks nice. Is that a combined half lap and dovetail or does it have something else on the other side

[Anonymous No.2559693]

>>2559690
it is a fancy sliding dovetail most likely, pushes on from the bottom and is a dovetail from the top as well. Good exercise in layout and cutting dovetails.

[Anonymous No.2559702]

>>2559693
>>2559690

That's what it is, tests your accuracy, made many, only two pieces.

[Anonymous No.2559704]

I know very little about woodworking. I have an idea to make money for myself. Basically- how much would it cost to have a stencil made where I could heat it up, and burn an image into wood?

[Anonymous No.2559706]

>>2559704
you can order custom branding irons

[Anonymous No.2559711]

>>2559702
>didn't do the center tenon
You have to have that tenon if you really want to test your accuracy. Whats with the glue, was your accuracy off on that one?

[Anonymous No.2559713]

>>2559706
How much are we talkin?

[Anonymous No.2559715]

>>2559585
You can respect price point, form, or function. If you were that good at woodworking and easily casting shade at everyone else's furniture then you could easily beat all three of these.

I did a large ikea dresser this week. It's a large paper wrapped LDF pile of shit and it's a wonder a good bump doesn't rip out 15 cam screws and send the thing crumbling to the floor. But they flat pack that crap tight as can be and at $200 you can barely buy two sheets of ply these days.

I got spoiled and used to custom cabinetry. Now when I have to try to work out someone's paper mache new furnishings it's a bit of a step backward.

I think you should determine if your goals are aligned with furniture design, production, or just general hobby enthusiasm. The first two are readily translated professionally at a certain level.

[Anonymous No.2559719]

>>2559711
Not glue but dish soap to help when I pounded it together, the handle is White Ash, boiled first.
Centre tenon, there would not be much of the mallet head left, but it would make it very challenging.

[Anonymous No.2559721]

>>2559715
Incorrect, it's easier to not know. You have started down the path of woodworking, criticism increases the value of the subject, music, art, literature. You have already learned something, it will take many years to become accomplished at the basic tasks, but for many it is worth the time and effort.

[Anonymous No.2559724]

>>2559721
>>2559715
I guess my issue is that while becoming good with cars would make me more critical of my car, or becoming an art connoisseur would make me more critical of the one or two prints in my house, nearly everything in my home is made or wood or fake wood so it would take a huge time investment for me to replace it. I have made some of my own furniture though which does bring me more joy than any piece of furniture I've bought.

[Anonymous No.2559733]

>>2559724
Mostly it would just make you hate cars and you'd buy a LS430 so you never have to work on your own car again.

[Anonymous No.2559736]

>>2559719
Ahh, I just beat them together but I can see some lube being helpful. There is plenty of head left with a center tenon, it is a bit tight at the bottom but plenty of meat left over all. Skip the tenon on the bottom for the handle and play with your dovetail geometry some if you find these are getting too easy for you.

[Anonymous No.2559748]

>>2559736
Thanks, I will skip the bottom tenon next time, have three more to make.

[Anonymous No.2559756]

>>2559748
As a side note, the grain of the head should be perpendicular to the grain of the handle, flat sawn grain on top/bottom and quarter sawn to the sides. Far less likely to split the head down the road or during assembly. Traditionally something with interlocked grain like elm would be used for the head since they are quite resistant to splitting.

[Anonymous No.2559827]

>>2559713

Not much, you can get them custom on amazon for anywhere from $30 on up. Probably less than you're expecting. Some fancy ones incorporate a heating element. Not really sure why you'd want that though unless you branded shit all day long.

Consider a laser instead though, it's like having infinite branding irons and a passable one is only a couple hundred bucks for simple burns.

[Anonymous No.2559845]

If Carnauba wax is the queen of waxes, what is the king of waxes?

[Anonymous No.2559931]

Ran a new 220 and 110 line to my garage to upgrade my cnc router spindle from 1.5kw 110v to 2.2kw 220 and put all the electronics on a dedicated 110. Feeling like it is probably going to be a waste of money, I never maxed the power the 1.5 put out and I will probably never use 1/2 bits the new spindle supports on my cnc. Oh well.

[Anonymous No.2559936]

I started woodworking 3 months ago and have spent over $6k on tools and materials because I wanted to build some furniture for my new house. All I’ve made so far though are a bunch of jigs that YouTube has convinced me I desperately need. Did I fall for a meme?

[Anonymous No.2559941]

>>2559936

Did you have fun or are you having fun? Do you think you may have fun in the future?

If the answer is no to all of those, then sell your gently used equipment for 70% of what you paid and spend the money on another hobby.

For strictly utilitarian furniture you will not beat cheap shit from stores. If you do not enjoy it you will never learn to make fantastic shit.

[Anonymous No.2559944]

>>2559936
i'm such a cheapstake i don't even know what i would buy with $6k nor could i feel right doing it.
i don't even got bar clamps. i just use scraps with pegs and wedges to glue boards together.
most of the jigs would be from salvaged wood.
but 3 months is nothing yet so it's hard to tell and you won't be needing to make as much jigs as time goes on so you'll be able to concentrate on actual works.

[Anonymous No.2559945]

>>2559721
Easier to not know what? The price? You have to buy materials and if you ever plan on selling anything you'll compare what you have to comparable listings.
Easier to not know the design? Sure go draw up all your new furniture builds from scratch in a vacuum.
>many years to become accomplished at basic tasks
No, that's why they're basic tasks. Masters are have perfected the basics but that doesn't mean a novice will be incompetent for 24+ months. People with common sense choose projects at increasing difficulties to meet and expand their skillsets.

[Anonymous No.2559946]

>>2559845
Scapegoat

[Anonymous No.2559967]

>>2559277
Thanks. I don’t use them that often, so it feels like I have to relearn it each time. Same with putting on guitar strings.

>>2559329
No. I’ll set it back up and it either digs so deep I can’t push it, or does a skittering/chopping thing. Does the depth of the cutting blade, and the depth of the breaker have to change based on the hardness of the wood? It’s like I eventually luck into the correct settings, rather than understand how to set it up properly. I wish there was a 3D tutorial hat showed how each adjustment affected how it was cutting. Like a technical video showing how the pieces work together and why you would adjust the cutting depth to be longer, or the breaker to be higher or lower.

It really is awesome when it is working well, and Jin shavings of wood are coming off. Super satisfying.

On myis current project I know I shouldn’t be using the planer to remove so much wood, but it seems like the best tool that I can use at night without waking up the neighborhood.

Every now and then the popo fly over me at night and check me out with the infrared or thermal cam. No worry ghetto bird, and I wave. Just a 50 year old guy in his underwear and a headlamp planing down some wood in his back yard at 3 am.

One time they hit me with the big beam. I guess I left my car door open, and cops were looking for … someone. THey thought maybe they were hiding in my car? I hate explaining to cops why I’m doing woodwork or disassembling a washing machine at 3 am. I know I look like a total tweaker.

But I work evenings and it’s the only time I can do shit.

Ok you are ranting on a forum again bro. Dial it down. Use your inner voice.

[Anonymous No.2559968]

>>2559945
>that doesn't mean a novice will be incompetent for 24+ months
That’s exactly what it means. Look at any skilled trade and you’ll see the same thing.

[Anonymous No.2559977]

>>2559967

To be honest I'd probably be glad they were trying to run tweakers out of my yard at 3 AM, and tales of the late night underwear woodworker will spread quickly enough that they won't bother you for long

[Anonymous No.2559984]

>>2559967
there was a study on the effect of the chip breaker closeness with closeup video but i can't find it. i think they compared the bevel grind angles, depth of cut, and against single iron cutters.
the plane skipping is usually called chatter if you want more results on how to fix it.
if you want to reduce tear out, a chip breaker helps, but it also makes pushing harder.
personally i use wood-bodied planes and i like single irons just because less parts to worry about.

[Anonymous No.2559991]

>>2559580
>There are no good cabinets
What about these

[Anonymous No.2560080]

>>2559845
Carnauba has its uses but it is hard stuff, hand rubbed carnauba wax finish is a bitch to manage but does not offer all that much greater protection over rubbed beeswax. You really notice it when the finish gets damaged, the ease of repair that beeswax has really moves it ahead despite not being as tough. Carnauba has its place and is great stuff but beeswax is better overall.

You can make the case that carnauba is better when it comes to mixed finishes where solvents do the hard work for you but their added hardness generally does not add anything here since other things in the mix add greater durability than either wax provides.

Only place I really see carnauba winning out is in finishes which are high in wax and need to take heat.
>>2559967
Optimal chip breaker setting is depth of cut plus a tiny bit for clearance. So if your depth of cut is 1/32" (shaving size) than you would want the chip breaker a hair over 1/32" from the edge, this will make sure it breaks the chip as soon as possible without causing problems. In most woods we can just leave it around 1/16" from the edge and not worry, we only need to make it perfect when dealing with wood which really wants to tear out.

[Anonymous No.2560120]

Any thoughts on these paint spray systems?
I want one to apply paint evenly on my outdoor current projects, and to apply oils/stains on future ones.

[Anonymous No.2560204]

My table saw leaves really bad cut marks when ripping and I think it might be the blade I’m using (pic related). Will shelling out for a better blade help eliminate cut marks? What’s a good alternative? Should I have separate blades for ripping and cross cutting?

[Anonymous No.2560225]

>>2559991
>wood over the stove
That hood better suck like your mom, or that shit's going to get greasy.

[Anonymous No.2560228]

>>2560120
I've never had one that worked properly. They're very picky about the consistency of the paint or stain. You'll spend half your time clearing clogs, because a gnat will land in the container and one of it's testicles will plug some vital part.

[Anonymous No.2560229]

>>2560204
Post pictures of the marks please.

[Anonymous No.2560239]

>>2560229
This is on a piece of maple

[Anonymous No.2560243]

>>2558946
>using Pallet wood for anything
>boards full of nails, chemicals, feces and god knows what else
>off-gases shit into your lungs

It was relegated to being a palllet for a reason, anon. Pallets are the peasents of the wood world

[Anonymous No.2560246]

>>2560239
A couple things to check. First, make sure that your blade doesn't need replacing and that you're using a blade that's appropriate for the task. Sometimes you'll end up with a rough cut blade when you want a much higher tooth-per-inch blade. Although, the one you have shouldn't be doing that. A dull blade can really fuck you up.

Next, check to make sure that the blade and the fence are parallel to each other. If they aren't, it can cause marks like that.

A lot of it can end up being several small issues in adjustment that add up to bigger issues. I'd recommend googling "table saw tune up". Some of the stuff you'll find will require autist-grade measurement tools, but there's a few guys out there who make it more approachable.

[Anonymous No.2560250]

>>2560246
Thanks. I tuned up my table saw about 2 months ago. I didn’t know I had to keep doing it that often. I’ll definitely bust out the autist gauges and give it another look. I also ordered a higher quality ripping blade just in case.

[Anonymous No.2560256]

>>2560250
I wouldn't think you'd have to do it that often. If you do the tune up and it fixes the issue, I'd start to try and figure out why things are drifting so quickly.

[Anonymous No.2560262]

Best sawhorses?

[Anonymous No.2560312]

I want to start making and selling stuff out of wood.
What can I make? It will be easy to sell a lot of?
I thought about tables. Thoughts? Opinions?

[Anonymous No.2560320]

>>2560262
Matthias Wandel's
https://woodgears.ca/sawhorse/

[Anonymous No.2560335]

>>2560320
I like to screw an extra piece of 2x4 flat across the top as a sacrificial surface.

[Anonymous No.2560337]

>>2560239
I’m no expert but looks like a repetitive pattern here which could mean it’s vibrating or not straight on its axle I think.
Did you compare the width of a cut (can be cross or rip) versus the indicated width of the blade?

[Anonymous No.2560348]

>>2560335
I screwed a door onto mine

[Anonymous No.2560349]

I just completely hid a scuff on my nice corner table by rubbing a chicken flavored peanut on it

[Anonymous No.2560351]

>>2560337
Well I am using a jobsite saw on a stand (pic related) and my garage floor isn’t level so I could see vibration being an issue. I might try mounting the saw to my workbench to help dampen the vibration.

[Anonymous No.2560352]

>>2560351
Forgot pic

[Anonymous No.2560364]

>>2560348
That's awesome. I've had several door-based workbenches.

[Anonymous No.2560373]

>>2560364
The really nice thing is that I was able to make those sawhorses sitting on a concrete floor with a hardware store saw, chisel, and hammer. A truly underrated feature.

[Anonymous No.2560403]

>>2560312
shoehorns
small hand carved, comically large 2 feet steam bent ones

[Anonymous No.2560406]

>>2560239
this is flex in your guide
it is way to spaced for the sawblade to be the cause. double check that by ripping another piece with 1/3 the feed speed

[Anonymous No.2560424]

>>2560406
> this is flex in your guide
What does this even mean? Are you talking about the fence?

[Anonymous No.2560427]

>>2559991
I don’t know, next time try focusing your piece of shit camera.

[Anonymous No.2560456]

>>2560351
Could very well be the issue. But if so you’d see the same pattern (albeit less deep) when doing cross cuts.

>>2560424
Flex in your guide means in the fence indeed. If the fence is connected to the table only at its outer ends and/or not stiff enough, it can start to flex/vibrate/wobble in its center (where your blade is), pushing the piece towards the blade a bit. You can check this by clamping a temporary stiffer fence (metal rod or something) onto the table. In that case a rip cut blade would help too btw, as they don’t have a kerf so won’t cut ‘sideways’

[Anonymous No.2560460]

>>2560243

wow thanks for nothing you dumb fucking nigger

[Anonymous No.2560525]

>>2560456
>a rip cut blade would help too btw, as they don’t have a kerf

[Anonymous No.2560674]

>>2559430
i wouldn't rule out grooves hand-cut one by one. from a few days of practicing with the traditional method, i'm getting consistent. someone with years of daily practice could probably accurately cut them blind-folded.
as the chisel is hammered, a sort of burr raises, and the back of the chisel is made to rest against this burr which helps with consistency even when you do not see the grooves. i found that the angle that the chisel is struck changes the spacing and depth. the width of the back bevel of the chisel may have something to do with it too.
>>2559331
if the texture is only to be planed off, it doesn't matter. it matters to restorers and woodworkers who make replicas or are interested in historical authenticity, who often leave tool marks. tools transfer signature marks upon the wood when viewed closely. grooves with square walls will not make the same tracks as grooves that are triangular.
as for the tool itself, there are geometries that are weaker and likely to chip the teeth, such as closely spaced grooves that have deep vertical walls or grooves that are undercut.

[Anonymous No.2560768]

Made a baby gym out of scrap beech. Don't own any power tools excepting a drill. Between the gaps in the joinery so wide you could park a truck in them, all the little defects from where I wandered off with various tools and it being as straight and square as a roundabout I think it turned out alright.

[Anonymous No.2560773]

>>2560674
>it matters to restorers and woodworkers who make replicas or are interested in historical authenticity, who often leave tool marks
There is no place where toothing planes are used that would leave the marks visible, it is part of the reason why we don't know when the toothing plane came into existence. We have a good idea of when it came into use for veneer work since we have veneered pieces that show its use. You can not actually differentiate the marks made by old toothing planes from old ones.
>such as closely spaced grooves that have deep vertical walls or grooves that are undercut.
Strawman, neither serve any purpose on a toothing blade and would only serve to make them more difficult to produce.

You are showing you don't actually know anything about toothing blades or their function.

[Anonymous No.2560777]

>>2560768
I would say nice build but the sharp corners on the top really bug me, wouldn’t want to trip over baby toys and get impaled on one of those. Also I hope realise this isn’t the exactly right joint because any downward force is carried solely by the glue and the small square tenon. But it looks good and your baby will like it

[Anonymous No.2560778]

>>2560777
The tops are rounded over a lot. The gobbed on finish makes them look sharper than they are. Letting it soak in a bit before wiping it off. There's a diamond shaped mortise through the legs and a matching tenon on the bar. It's pretty small though so not all that strong. I can lean on it pretty well though so I doubt that the plush animals plus his ~7kg can break it.

[Anonymous No.2560781]

>>2560777
>>2560778
Sorry I apparently can't read. I think it's gonna be alright. Commercial ones are usually the same overall design but put together with one or two screws on each end.

[Anonymous No.2560807]

>>2560525
>>2560456
What are you getting at here? I would go as far as to say all electric saw blades kerf 1/8" at varying feed speed and cleanliness.

[Anonymous No.2560853]

>>2560427
Blame the realtor
https://www.realtor.com/realestateandhomes-detail/105-Eastway-Dr_Camden_ME_04843_M35195-01000

[Anonymous No.2560856]

>>2560781

Nice except any live load and it'll probably rack easily defeating btge purpose. Should've just built a baby sawhorse, 1000x stronger and then you can do some work on it since you're a toolet

[Anonymous No.2560860]

>>2560856
jej, defeating what purpose exactly?

[Anonymous No.2561007]

>>2560807
>feed speed
formerly Chucks

[Anonymous No.2561125]

>>2557936
I do pergolas and pavilion design + construction and it really is not that hard
that specific structure looks like about 2 days fabricating the pieces and 1 day to assemble it with a 2 man team
doing the benches and walls would add a bit, maybe

While it isn't as perfect as a cut with a large blade, you can just cut from both sides of the board by scribing your cut around each face
The most time consuming thing will be cutting joints, if you haven't done much of that before it will take a bit
If you don't have good, sharp chisels of multiple sizes it will be frustrating

Due to the size of our projects we typically pour footings close to grade, then laser level and cut each post to a unique length that makes them level across the tops
If you don't have a laser (or don't want to buy one) you could use water leveling
for something this size you could probably get away with using a small level on top of a very straight 2x4

[Anonymous No.2561191]

table saw is ezpz what was I worried about

[Anonymous No.2561196]

Anons, I wanna get into woodworking. What's something I can make that I can put on facebook or ebay and people will buy?

[Anonymous No.2561227]

>>2561196
> What's something I can make that I can put on facebook or ebay and people will buy?

[Anonymous No.2561235]

>>2561191
People not sending things through straight or without push blocks.
The tool deserves respect. Give the blade time to work, especially if you're doing specialty cuts.

[Anonymous No.2561237]

>>2561227
>faceberg marketplace is going to pay for that

[Anonymous No.2561240]

>>2561237
20 bucks and a VCR and you deliver it
Deal?

[Anonymous No.2561244]

>>2561227
I was thinking like one of those resin tables, but idk if people would be lining up to buy.
>>2561240
lol

[Anonymous No.2561337]

>>2561227
Shitty "barnwood" benches or whatever seem to always be on craigslist where I'm at. I don't have a facebook account, so I don't know what's on marketplace.

The reason I put barnwood in quotes is because I don't know if it's actually barnwood, or if it's just Lowe's cull pile shit that's been left out all winter to turn grey. I say that, because I have $350 worth of 1x2/1x3/1x4 stuff that I got for $60 because somebody placed an order and then never picked it up. I've currently got it spread out on the ground, and it's about halfway to looking like reclaimed lumber.

[Anonymous No.2561365]

I’m making some wood brackets like pic related for a shelf that needs to hold up to 100 lbs. I need the bracket to stick out 22 inches but I only have enough space to make the part that mounts to the wall about 15 inches. What is the likelihood that the shelf will fail if I do it this way?

[Anonymous No.2561370]

>>2561365
You're fine. Those brackets will hold a lot more than a hundred pounds, and since there's more than one of them under the shelf, it's going to be rock solid. Just make sure they're anchored to the stud well.

[Anonymous No.2561374]

>>2559218
stop lining stuff up by eye

[Anonymous No.2561380]

>>2561374
This. Master woodworkers line stuff up by taste and smell.

[Anonymous No.2561381]

32, never built a damn thing in my life. I'm a white collar office worker in the suburbs on something of a self improvement journey. Been lifting weights, gave up video games, picked up reading and book collecting among other things lately. Had the idea to build a workbench in my garage to tinker on, and eventually came across the idea of learning some basic woodworking skills so I can make the table as well as other small projects. Used up a few Lowes gift cards I had laying around today, tomorrow I'll be picking up some wood and see where it takes me.

[Anonymous No.2561400]

What do you guys think about this?

[Anonymous No.2561402]

>>2561400

[Anonymous No.2561404]

>>2561381
good luck and have fun, anon! I'm proud of you for bettering yourself and learning new skills :D

[Anonymous No.2561422]

>>2561402
Looks like you just slapped a bunch of mismatched shit together with no pattern.

[Anonymous No.2561436]

>>2561381
Why does everyone think video games are bad but somehow books arent?
Its escapism either way.
Not sure where we lost the whole "some things in moderation" thing

[Anonymous No.2561549]

>>2561365
About 1.5x the likelihood as when making both pieces 22 inches. But those almost never break right off, they are more likely to come loose from the wall so if you make sure to use proper screws and anchors you’ll be fine

[Anonymous No.2561585]

>>2561436
There have been several studies that show that reading is good for your brain. There are also several studies that show the opposite for video games. Now put down the controller and pick up a book, retard:

[Anonymous No.2561628]

>>2561381
Nice starter kit but I hope you have more than one grit of sandpaper because you’ll have to sharpen the chisel and plane at some point

> titebond original
Excellent choice

> build a workbench in my garage to tinker on
You may want to go with some saw horses or a saw bench first. Sawing and joining stuff on table/floor is a pain

[Anonymous No.2561631]

>>2561628
>You may want to go with some saw horses or a saw bench first.
Yep, and saw horses are hard to screw up, and cheap enough to remake if you do. Plus, it gets you used to using the tools and wood on a low stakes environment.

[Anonymous No.2561633]

>>2561628
>Sawing and joining stuff on table/floor is a pain
does anon not have two beer case he can turn over

[Anonymous No.2561689]

>>2561402
>>2561400
I'm not a big fan of pre-finish. You have to be stupid careful installing it so you don't scratch it and all the joints are highly visibly because of the gap in the finish. But you're avoiding stair stepping and spacing your joints appropriately while leaving the right size gap around the wall so it looks pretty good.

[Anonymous No.2561690]

>>2561422
There's not supposed to be a pattern.

[Anonymous No.2561694]

>>2561196
Bumping for more answers.

[Anonymous No.2561700]

>>2561694
The hard truth is that no one will buy anything off you unless they recognize your name or you studied under a legitimate master and became one or are close to becoming one yourself. Would you buy a shaker side table off of Anon McNobody on Facebook Marketplace of all places for some exorbitant sum?
A lot of people are attentionwhoring with epoxy river tables. Maybe that's a good avenue to getting your name out there. It sure is expensive.

[Anonymous No.2561704]

>>2561700
I guess maybe I shouldn’t even try honestly. Thanks though.

[Anonymous No.2561708]

>>2561704
Yeah, that's it: fuck it, never improve.
If you want to start a business, any business, be prepared to spend a lot of time and money before you see a single cent in return.

[Anonymous No.2561733]

>>2561700
> Would you buy a shaker side table off of Anon McNobody on Facebook Marketplace of all places for some
Not for furniture no, and you need some kind of marketing edge

t. Anon McNobody, bio-friendly local wood chemical-free baby-safe toy maker with circular economy (I buy them back for half price and sell used)

[Anonymous No.2561734]

>>2561700
>The hard truth is that no one will buy anything off you unless they recognize your name or you studied under a legitimate master and became one or are close to becoming one yourself.
This is retardation in written form. If you are turning out a decent product, it's highly likely that craigslist or marketplace isn't the place for you. Talk to the boutique stores around you, not the ones that carry factory made chink shit. You might have to start off selling consignment, but at least it's your foot in the door. If it sells, they might switch over to a wholesale model.
>>2561708
>If you want to start a business, any business, be prepared to spend a lot of time and money before you see a single cent in return.
Just don't quit your day job right off. Yes, it can cost money and take time, but starting a business has always been that way. I wouldn't see that as a reason not to start. Just don't be a retard and think that you're going to post a couple craigslist ads and hit it big. The hardest part is advertising reach. Whether it's social media or pounding pavement, it takes a lot of eyeballs on your product to make even a single sale. Most people do want the chink shit, but there are people out there who like to support small business. The biggest factor in my wife's business has been making local connections with other businesses. That's opened up the opportunity to go to different in person shows and markets, as well as them selling her products in their own shops.

The key here is, if you're passionate about it, then give it a go and don't let the corpulent fingers typing out negativity dissuade you.

[Anonymous No.2561736]

>>2561734
>>The hard truth is that no one will buy anything off you unless they recognize your name
>This is retardation in written form
>The biggest factor in my wife's business has been making local connections
Do you read your own post before posting it?

[Anonymous No.2561744]

>>2557534
Why would you start what could be a cool thread with a pic showing how gay you are?

[Anonymous No.2561773]

>>2561744
why would you not just ignore that especially when the thread is 250 posts in

[Anonymous No.2561783]

>>2561773
Just gotta call out faggots when I see them, and I like woodworking/carpentry. Just built a deck, a squat rack, and a bench.

[Anonymous No.2561791]

>>2561744
Most of more interested in woodworking than /pol/ and ignored OP's virtue signalling for the sake of the thread.

[Anonymous No.2561816]

>>2561744
>>2561773
>>2561783
>>2561791
It’s just a funny pun for fucks sake. Why are Trumptards so sensitive?

[Anonymous No.2561835]

>>2561791
>/pol/
>>2561816
>trumptard
And this is why I mentioned it I dont want to be on the same planet as faggots like you let alone a woodworking thread. Next you'll be saying chud. Why don't you go build something besides wooden butt plugs.

[Anonymous No.2561841]

>>2561694
>>2561835
>wooden butt plugs

This is a lucrative option, I was going to mention it. Custom sex furniture makes even more, but you have to be able to deliver it instead of shipping it.

[Anonymous No.2561863]

>>2561835
>And this is why I mentioned it I dont want to be on the same planet as faggots like you let alone a woodworking thread
Kys then. Trump lost. Get over it. Chud.

[Anonymous No.2562011]

>>2560773
the insides and undersides of pre-industrial furnitures often have toothing marks, even those with very fine exteriors. 18th century ones certainly do. unfinished pieces exist. even if the toothing is planed off on the show surfaces, glue blocks and veneer grounds have toothing marks, and they come off regularly. the problem of knowing when they first came to be has more to do with what information is available or more accessible, and tools that survive.
what is said is not a strawman, as there are examples. nor do i find it more difficult to do it on metal. cutting straight down, which may be easier for one singular groove, does not create good burr to register the back of the chisel against. the angle of the walls, including it it happens to be undercut, depends on the angle of the chisel which also affects spacing. undercut is only an example, which nevertheless exists. even one that has a 90 degree wall on one side is more fragile than grooves that have valleys equally sloped.
maybe you specifically can't differentiate toothing marks of grooves manufactured differently, but that does not mean that they cannot be determined through close examination. marks on wood made by many modern toothing planes that have square grooves and teeth (lie nielson) will not make the same marks as those with triangular teeth. saying they do is like saying a square scratch stock makes the same mark as a triangular scratch stock.

[Anonymous No.2562018]

>>2561404
>>2561436
>>2561628

my progress for today. Surprised how much I can do with a tape measure, a square, a sharpie, a hand saw, and some clamps

[Anonymous No.2562026]

>>2562018
>woodworking
>uses metal hardware
This isn’t the thread for you, kid.

[Anonymous No.2562046]

>>2559984
Thanks I’ll look for something similar. I finally got my planar dialed in and it’s rocking.

>>2559425
I’m using tung oil. I should have mixed with citrus oil for the first coat. I’ll do that on the next one.
>>2559585
> Isn't knowledge supposed to make life easier not harder?
No, that is wisdom. Knowledge is just part of that equation.

>>2559425
Fucking deck screws wrecked my shit today. Whenever I had to take one out to make adjustments, they just tore the shit out of the hole. I think they are designed so I don’t predrill, and predrilling took out too much mass or something. I used 1/8 bit with #8 screws, but I should have used 7/64 or smaller.

[Anonymous No.2562248]

>>2562018
You've done exceedingly well but assuming that's a workbench in the making you really want to present a flat face on at least one long side so you can clamp things to it. Those protruding screws are going to be really annoying.

[Anonymous No.2562254]

>>2562018
Nice work, >>2562248 is correct. You could cover the brackets by putting a facing of 1x4s on the main long side, and chisel out space over the brackets. Countersink screws or use dowels. You might want to access the brackets someday so perhaps don't glue them on.

[Anonymous No.2562260]

>>2562248
>>2562254

thanks, and yes its a workbench in progress. You are correct, the front face is supposed to be nice and flat but some of the wood screws aren't going all the way in flush. I figured I'd try again later maybe the wood needs to loosen up or something

[Anonymous No.2562264]

to clarify its 6' long so I wasn't planning on covering the end brackets since the long face has more than enough flat room to clamp things (assuming I figure out how to get the wood screws flush in)

[Anonymous No.2562267]

>>2562260
>>2562264
While normally not necessary in softwood it's always a good idea to drill a pilot hole for your screw the size of the spine inside the threads (literally just hold a drill bit up in front of the screw threads and see if it occludes the spine but not the threads).
Those countersunk screws are not going to be nearly as annoying as the braces on the upper cross member, which is what I think we were both referring to. You don't normally put your vise in the middle because it's a lot more useful to have it right on top of a leg where the table is the strongest. To clamp long things you simply use a movable device like an F clamp or a deadman to clamp the other end. As a result you'll end up being right by one of the two braces. Like the other anon said, you can just put cladding over it, though I think the easier solution if you're uncomfortable with a chisel is to get some dirt cheap 3mm hard fiberboard, cut some pieces to match the front face minus the braces, and use it as a spacer for the 1x4 cladding. It doesn't have to be perfect because softwood will just deform if the screw heads protrude a little more than those 3mm.

[Anonymous No.2562269]

lets say I want to run a 120V power cable through a channel in a table leg. Do I need conduit?

[Anonymous No.2562270]

>>2562267
oh I didn't even think of predrilling. I know I have some thin long drill pieces in the dewalt box I got. For the top I will predrill and hopefully that will sort everything out (I don't really care if the bottom ones aren't perfectly flush desu). Thanks for the idea, will post updates later on

[Anonymous No.2562278]

>want to build a router table
>router lift costs more than the fucking router
What kind of fucking jewry is this…

[Anonymous No.2562285]

>>2562278
?? just drill a 1" hole in plywood and mount the router to it

[Anonymous No.2562293]

>>2562278
Jesus Christ and I thought the hand tool jew was jewing me.

[Anonymous No.2562306]

>>2562278
this is wood working, the pastime made to rob boomers of their pension

[Anonymous No.2562359]

Hi guys I made a box

[Anonymous No.2562360]

>>2562359

[Anonymous No.2562361]

>>2562360

[Anonymous No.2562362]

>>2562361
Do I have talent?

[Anonymous No.2562366]

>>2562306
I thought that was cars.

[Anonymous No.2562372]

>>2562278
If you don’t need precision height adjustment very often you could just diy a wooden sliding/clamping system with knobs or a t-shaped handle under the table. I used four vertically mounted drawer rails for the sliding part when I built a table saw, but just smooth pieces of wood may work as well

[Anonymous No.2562464]

if a joint is a little loose can you just paint on some glue+sawdust to add dimension? Or is there a dedicated substance for this?

[Anonymous No.2562469]

>>2562464
not with pva glue

[Anonymous No.2562485]

Can anyone recommend a whittling knife they like? i want to start carving wooden spoons?

[Anonymous No.2562567]

>>2558267
I think some natives did, and possibly some of the coloners as well, but currently? Not in the slightest.

[Anonymous No.2562578]

day 2. I know the shelf looks shit no bully

[Anonymous No.2562612]

so far the hardest part about woodworking is finding a moment of peace to actually do it

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2562614]

If the anon from the other thread who was interested in my trailer is here, here's the current progress. Deck sealed with truck bedliner, floor down and insulated with 1 1/2" foam, front and one wall mounted using 2x6s ripped down to 1x1.5 for framing. After the next wall and the roof I will begin wiring then insulating the walls and roof. Galley will be the last part to build.
Would this project be worth its own thread?

[Anonymous No.2562701]

>>2562578
Yes because workbenches must look absolutely pristine. In fact, working on your workbench ruins the aesthetic.

[Anonymous No.2562712]

>>2562578
Those corner brackets are scams meant to be sold to women (who can't understand physics). Just screw the 2x4s to the 4x4s, it's stronger and doesn't cost you $10 per corner.

[Anonymous No.2562891]

When making a Mortison Tenon joint is it better to round out the peg or to square out the hole?

[Anonymous No.2562929]

>>2562701
>>2562712
yeah yeah. Its my first project so I'm just trying to get the basics down and build something that will last a long time.

Also just realized that you can buy nice smooth reddish fir planks for half the price of whatever shitty looking 2x4 / 4x4 I got. Didn't even know there was different types of wood to use. I'm a fucking retard.

[Anonymous No.2562984]

>>2562891
>Mortison Tenon
To answer the question, traditionally both the mortise and the tenon are square because they're cut with a mortising chisel and a saw respectively. The best way is whatever way you prefer. If you get better results drilling out the mortise and rounding the ends of the tenon then that's the best way.

[Anonymous No.2562986]

>>2562984
But do they both hold the same?

[Anonymous No.2562987]

>>2562891
>Mortison Tenon
it's Mortician Tenant. it's a metaphor for the oblong box shape and the part that goes inside, like a dead guy in a coffin.

>>2562986
yes of course

[Anonymous No.2562988]

>>2562986
How well it holds is a question of how perfectly it fits. There's no functional difference between the two.

[Anonymous No.2562993]

>>2557936
make the footing stones mildly taper upwards so the post with a matching internal taper naturally self centres over it for stability and sheds water

[Anonymous No.2563028]

How come chisels only come in metric? I can’t find any Narex or 2 Cherries in imperial.

[Anonymous No.2563030]

>>2563028
Chisels come in both. Narex's only worthwhile series (Richter) comes in imperial, allegedly. Not that it matters. You're at most going to be 0.5mm over or under any imperial fraction.

[Anonymous No.2563071]

>>2562018
>brackets

Ew

[Anonymous No.2563089]

>>2563030
Thanks, senpai. Will check it out.

[Anonymous No.2563095]

Trying to make a wooden framed V trolley what are some good cad options for modelling this sort of stuff?

[Anonymous No.2563100]

>>2563095
Fusion 360, Tinkercad, sketchup all free for basic. Since this is /g/ the real answer is "pirated SolidWorks"

[Anonymous No.2563102]

>>2562464
Yes but use CA glue or epoxy and it’s one-time use. Better would be to glue a piece of solid wood on and make that to size. Glue joints are stronger than wood fiber these days so it’s not as hard as it seems

[Anonymous No.2563103]

>>2559968
No. This isn't medicine. You don't need a 10 year degree to build a box. Most skilled trades are regulated to insure against large failure cases not that apprentices are unable to perform every aspect of the job.
Your concept of a true learning curve is radically distorted.

[Anonymous No.2563104]

>>2563100
>is /g/
isn't /g/*

[Anonymous No.2563109]

>>2562891
Rounding out the ‘peg’ is a lot easier to do if you’re not used to chiselling. No difference otherwise, except the rounding may give you a slightly bigger tap because it’s often less exact. It’s Morrison-Tenant btw

>>2563030
I would concur, their budget ones are among the best price/quality chisels I’ve owned

>>2563095
Pirated solidworks 2017

[Anonymous No.2563118]

>>2563095
I'm trying to figure out a way to reinforce the rear v enough to act as a leverage for heavy logs.
mspaint scribble for context if you can decipher it, the dots are bolts through to hold it together, I'll use metal strips to reinforce the plywood further

>>2563100
Are any of the opensource cad software actually usable?

[Anonymous No.2563124]

>>2563118
*across the top, with bolts ecuring it through.
The problem is I can't think of a way to properly support the v vertically.
I think I could probably just cut a notch in the 2x3s so that it directly rests on the 2x4?

[Anonymous No.2563174]

ok the behemoth is done, was kind of a pain in the dick. I'm thinking next can be an attachable frame + pegboard to hang tools and things

[Anonymous No.2563207]

How long does it take to get good at woodworking? I’ve been at it 3 months and I still can’t do basic shit like cut a fucking mortise.

[Anonymous No.2563220]

>>2557664
>>2557676
how does taylor tools compare to the sweetheart line?

[Anonymous No.2563221]

>>2563207
There is no getting good. Every craft is like running a race with infinite people. You'll never be in first, but there will always be someone behind you.

[Anonymous No.2563223]

>>2563118
>Are any of the opensource cad software actually usable?
I mean, sure. Fusion 360 and sketchup are used commercially plenty, 3dpd loves f360. But SolidWorks is just king, it can do *everything*, as good or better than *every* other parametric 3dCAD.

[Anonymous No.2563246]

this has gone not so bad so far, except I chiseled too hard when removing waste from the cross piece and it split a big chunk off the end. I also need a better method for cutting the half laps in the cross pieces because my table saw can't quite hit depth here and my chisel likes to ride the grain instead of cutting the edge straight. Tomorrow when the glue dries I'll cut the other cross piece and see how it all fits.

[Anonymous No.2563276]

>>2563246
What’s up with that piece of pine? Did you stain it with piss?

[Anonymous No.2563294]

>>2563246
Your chisels are not cutting which means either you're not presenting the cutting edge to fibers you want cut or they're just dull, or both. Once your chisel starts splitting the grain, the primary bevel will be a lever between the two pieces and the cutting edge won't engage. A sure-fire way of making that happen in taking off too much material at once.

[Anonymous No.2563295]

>>2563118
Librecad is free and pretty usable for me but the learning curve for 2d cad is pretty steep initially. I guess I prefer pencil and ruler because I learned it pretty well in school. Hate sketchup love solidworks

>>2563174
A sheet of ply with nails/screws beats pegboard in usability imo, at a fraction of the cost, and you can make your own wooden jigs to attach stuff to.

>>2563220
Im not sure, don’t have any sweetheart. Also they’re both not consistent quality brands, Stanley doesn’t make the sweetheart plane afaik, neither does Taylor make their budget planes. You may get the exact same tool from the same Asian manufacturer, the QC may be very different. But if you see two planes from different brands that look exactly the same, they probably are

[Anonymous No.2563340]

>>2563295
So far I've been doing everything on paper since it gives me most freedom but the idea of a cad software with FEA options is appealing from a design perspective and ease of sharing.


plywood with nails, or screwed on hooks is effective, what about french cleats or hooking over the top? he could attach a rail to the sides of his bench frame to hang off too?

[Anonymous No.2563342]

>>2563174
you want tool drawers

[Anonymous No.2563345]

>>2563342
This guy gets it. Drawers, tills, cabinets. The tool wall is low density and thus a pain to use.

[Anonymous No.2563351]

>>2563345
In defence of the wall.
If you have something that gets used a lot then a wall fitting might be a better idea because you can just reach for it as you need it but everything else should be somewhere enclosed and out of the reach of sawdust.
But wall mounted tool cupboards are another option.
everything is going to depend on what you want to make, what your work environment is like. and how physically able you are.
If your knees or back are fucked then floor chests are a bad option

[Anonymous No.2563354]

>>2563351
And I just came across slatwall when I was searching for pegboard stuff, looks much more aesthetic with its horizonal slits. does anyone have experience with it? How well do those hook things hold? How do you fit them?

[Anonymous No.2563358]

>>2563351
The shop at my uni had a tool wall. Nice as it was to be able to see all the tools it was a pain to actually get the one you needed. A tool cabinet with the most used tools right by your standing position at the workbench or a saw/plane till with maybe a shelf or two and some drawers makes it much easier. Tool walls are for displaying tools so anyone can find whatever he needs. Good in the "hey where does this shop store the calipers" sense.

[Anonymous No.2563365]

>>2563174
Good work, anon.

Consider a French cleat system, combines wall stuff with options for shelves and drawers. Best is you can change it around whenever you want.


(Pic not very related)

[Anonymous No.2563372]

>>2563358
The original guy was looking for a backboard for his workbench I think a wallrack of some sort has utility coupled with drawers.
of these options I think either a plywood sheet, frenchcleat, or slatwall seem like the most versatile.

[Anonymous No.2563376]

Is there a specific name for planks cut with a 45 degree edge angle either with one edge 90 and the other 45 or both edges at 45 either in a parallelogram or trapezium profile?

[Anonymous No.2563463]

>>2563358
Depends a lot on what you do I guess. My bench isn’t very deep so I can reach in easily to grab something, but more importantly I can put something back while I work (or exchange it for something else) without having to move away.

> French cleats
Fun until you try to make them without a table saw

>>2563376
Cant seem to find a common English translation (we call them “mastic ribs”), but you should be able to find them at roofing stores because they’re used to add an angle to the edge of flat asphalt roofs

[Anonymous No.2563472]

>>2563463
I was thinking after looking at some slatwall designs that you could easily make them yourself and potentially have pretty much all the functionality of french cleats and pegwalls.

[Anonymous No.2563499]

Recommend me some rasps and files

[Anonymous No.2563501]

>>2563499
iwasaki

[Anonymous No.2563503]

>>2563499
yes

[Anonymous No.2563555]

>sign up for local woodworking workshop
>it’s full of boomers giving me unsolicited tips and trying to impress each other

[Anonymous No.2563559]

>>2563555
I have never dabbled in anything that I didn't immediately surpass boomers with decades of experience at. Internet access is the most powerful tool in the world for learning skills. Irl meetups are for flexing only; you will not learn anything useful there.

[Anonymous No.2563565]

Should I shell out the extra cash for the 10” dewalt job site saw or is the 8” plenty for general woodworking?

[Anonymous No.2563571]

>>2563565
I have the 10”. Having the bigger blade definitely makes a difference, especially if you plan on using jigs that will raise the height of your stock like a crosscut sled or a tapering jig. Also the 10” saw can fit a dado stack which is a nice bonus.

[Anonymous No.2563661]

>>2563365
If I get into woodworking, will that lady bear my children?

[Anonymous No.2563664]

>>2563559
You can beat the average boomer by watching just Paul Seller's vids for a few hours

[Anonymous No.2563770]

>>2563664
>>2563559
This so much. Youtube and crafting forums have ruined me, even when it comes to hobbies I know I'll never personally attempt. Its hard enough to find anyone that even has an interest beyond "consume current thing", but when I finally do and try to discuss their "passion", it almost always turns out that I know more in passing than they do in active engagement. I admit I'm a bit of a unicorn when it comes to cataloging "how its made" type of info, but it really sucks to see how few people truly possess any nuanced knowledge for even the things they claim to actively effort.

[Anonymous No.2563782]

Finished the castle joint at least as far as dry fitting. Still some tune up to get the top flush.

I'm happy with how the half lap turned out but the upright portion was much harder to size correctly. I tried fitting it together earlier but was just a hair too tight and actually got a little split going down the upright before I backed off and ended up shaving too much off so now it's loose. I think "sneaking up" on the fit backfired a bit because I went through very many micro adjustments to eventually end up pretty much on my drawn lines so I'll probably just hit much closer to those to begin with going forward.

Besides the tenon jig this is the first thing I've ever made with wood so I certainly can't complain.

[Anonymous No.2563785]

and the apron didn't like the little tabs I left on either side, quickly snapping along the grain about level with the upright groove so in the future I'll just cut that all the way out to begin with. It's easier to cut that way anyway

[Anonymous No.2563787]

and hypothetically if I removed this inside upright piece, how much strength would I lose?

[Anonymous No.2563827]

How to center cylinders?

I have a cylinder #1 (a table) that can spin by its center. I want to place another cylinder #2 (art piece) to center of the spinning table. I need millimeter precision. How can I do that?

[Anonymous No.2563833]

>>2563827
Draw two chords in the circle
Construct the perpendicular bisector of both.

They intersect at the center of the circle.

[Anonymous No.2563874]

>>2563827
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUL24IdUrkU&feature=youtu.be

as described by >>2563833

>>2563827
I think when crafting these, you might want to go the other way. Start with a point, then create the circle around that point.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VJDy0fDcL28

[Anonymous No.2563885]

>>2563827
would this work:

make best guess for center, and place #2. Slowly rotate table, adjust location of #2 until it no longer wobbles as it turns.

It is now centered.

put light pencil marks on top of table to mark position of #2. lift up, place wood glue or other adhesive, something that won't dry too quickly.

Put #2 back on table and rotate. Adjust position as needed until smooth rotation is achieved.

[Anonymous No.2563905]

>>2563787
In which direction?

[Anonymous No.2563908]

>>2563782
I feel like finger cutting the cross over would and more stable and stronger.if a lot more hassle.
But then I'd probably run the cut deeper, and run some sort of wrap around brace just above and just below.

[Anonymous No.2563937]

>>2563905
just generally I guess, but I think the highest stress situation would be say 200lb on top of 4 of these and then a sudden bump to the side. But also I probably won't go that route anyway thinking more.

>>2563908
what

[Anonymous No.2564130]

>>2563827
Lightly clamp the two cylinders together on a table after eyeballing it close, and putting your clamp near the center of the cylinders (so, it will be clamping small cylinder, big cylinder, and the table together), and securely clamp the big cylinder to the same table. Now, measure from the edge of the big cylinder to the small cylinder from four different places, ideally placed around the circumference equally, but as long as the four spots aren't right next to each other the actual places you measure from aren't important. Take a non marring block of wood or soft mallet and tap the smallest measurement a bit. You are trying to end up with all of the measurements equal to each other. Tapping it in one direction may slightly affect the other directions, so you will need to check all four each time.

A little tedious but this way you don't need to drill a hole in the center of either disk if you don't want to.

[Anonymous No.2564223]

Looking to take on my first woodworking project and want to get any beginner advice I can before i start on this Taliesin table lamp. I dont have my shop set up yet but I have a table saw / router + table / miter saw that my dad left me. I know most of this is going to be dado blade cuts but I know there are quite a few different ways of doing things.

[Anonymous No.2564273]

>>2564223
paul sellers youtube channel?

[Anonymous No.2564274]

>>2564223
> my first woodworking project
> the absolute monstrosity in your pic
Kek. Good luck.

[Anonymous No.2564289]

>>2564273
ill check him out thanks

>>2564274
im white if that matters

[Anonymous No.2564334]

>>2564289
Why would it matter, cracker?

[Anonymous No.2565321]

Migrate >>2565318