Woodworking General - /wwg/

[Anonymous No.2547519]

Welcome to the woodworking general, here we discuss the working of wood and the tools and techniques of working wood. So far we tend to be mostly hand tool folk with a slant towards cabinetry and carving but all are welcome and we have some capable power tool folk amount our ranks. General carpentry question such as framing/decking/general construction seems to get a better response in the /qtddtot/ or /sqt/.

>essential /wwg/ books
Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places, but the other two are MIA.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561588261

Christopher Schwarz tells you everything you need to know about planes and saws and their use
Handplane Essentials
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440332983
Handsaw Essentials
Best to find this one in PDF from the usual sources, out of print and pricey!

Chris Pye wrote the book on carving and keeps on writing them.
https://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/

The Eastern tradition, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0941936465

Leonard Lee The Complete Guide to Sharpeninig, how to sharpen most everything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561581259

Bob Flexner - Finishing 101, covers the common stuff, his other books cover the uncommon and go into more depth
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440308454/

Illustrated Cabinet Making by Bill Hylton, learn to design furniture that won't fall apart
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565233697/

>essential /wwg/ tv
https://www.pbs.org/show/woodwrights-shop/
https://www.newyankee.com/

[Anonymous No.2547587]

The USDA publishes the Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material, has some good info in it but the bulk of it is beyond what most woodworkers need and it is primarily concerned with wood used in construction so most of the info dealing with strength and the like would result in massive overkill. PDF is free to download from their site but getting an old edition for a couple dollars used is probably a better idea for most, less of the old editions is dedicated to things of no use to the woodworker, 1980s editions have a good balance. The section which deal with the structure and quality of wood/trees, how they grow and what that means to the woodworker is good knowledge to have.

wood-database.com is useful and may be all you need.

[Anonymous No.2547642]

What kind of wood is good for bathroom projects? I want to make a shit stool.

[Anonymous No.2547652]

Bought a Stanley no 2 plane today for $49 because it is cute. I'd like to see a no 1 some day to see how tiny that looks, since the no 2 already looks pretty damn small. Can't even hold the tote quite right.

[Anonymous No.2547667]

>>2547652
#2 is pretty useful, #1 not so much. Only a couple fingers wrap around the tote, the rest just run along the side/on top. I generally only wrap pinkey and ring finger, other two wrap around the blade assembly, sometimes middle finger sneak onto the tote as well.

[Anonymous No.2547714]

This is a piece of Irish oak I'm planning to make into a staff or walking stick, should I debark or not during the drying period? It's much thicker than the final product will be, but that's only because I wanted to leave room for error and some whittling

[Anonymous No.2547725]

>>2547642
if it doesnt get wet, anything will do
if you plan on showering with it i'd go with bamboo
>>2547714
always debark asap

[Anonymous No.2547726]

>>2547714
If the branch was dead or fallen I would just leave it be since it has already made it this far without my interference and anything you do is a crap shoot at that point.

If it was green/living when harvested than I would either toss it outside somewhere shaded and forget about it for a month or two or debark it and store it inside. Both are just ways to even out the moisture loss so stresses do not develop and crack the wood.

[Anonymous No.2547775]

>>2547726
Yeah I harvested it from a tree this afternoon so I suppose I'll debark it and keep it inside

[Anonymous No.2547815]

>Drill Driver can't drive long Phillips woodscrews more than 3/4 of the way
>But can drive the the long Robertson screws all the way
Is this an inditement of my shitty drill or the Phillips screws

[Anonymous No.2547826]

>>2547815
You need impact to drive PH screws reliably. Also it's spelled "indictment."

[Anonymous No.2547829]

>>2547826
I seriously wish Torx and Rob's were more common
My local store literally only stocks Phillips and those overpriced Rob "Pocketscrews"

[Anonymous No.2547839]

>>2547829
Interesting. I can almost only get TORX here.

[Anonymous No.2548060]

>>2547815
It is threading or screw finish not the head, unless the head is getting destroyed in which case it is operator error.

[Anonymous No.2548227]

>>2547519
If your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a thumb.

[Anonymous No.2548314]

>drilling 1/2” holes
>drop drill
>instinctively reach out to catch it
>catch it by the bit
Holy shit that could have been bad. Thank god my bits are dull as fuck lol.

[Anonymous No.2548322]

>>2547725
>always debark asap

Not for pieces that size/ diameter.

[Anonymous No.2548371]

>>2547714
Leave the bark and oil the ends. Small pieces tend to dry to quickly and develop cracks. Oiling the ends will slow evaporation from the ends. The open grain on the ends dries the fastest and tends to cause splitting. You want to slow the rate of drying for a premium piece of small diameter wood like this.

[Anonymous No.2548372]

>>2547815
The Phillips head was not designed for that type of duty.

[Anonymous No.2548449]

>>2547815
I predrill when this is a problem, not the most convenient method, but it works.

[Anonymous No.2548581]

For something like this, should I do the Miter cut first or make the slots for the splines while the stock is still straight, and then cut through them?

[Anonymous No.2548583]

>>2548581
Generally you do the miters first since they can require tweaking to get perfect. If you did the splines first that tweaking of the miter could throw off your splines and leave them sitting deeper on one side than the other resulting in things looking off.

[Anonymous No.2548654]

Alright fellas, tell me what you think of my shitty hardwood countertop idea
I keep seeing stuff about joining 2x4s and shit together, but my thought right now is to laminate some 3/4 ply sheathing, then gluing 1/4 oak playwood strips on top of that for the hardwood, then to place a 1x3 of oak board for the edge cover
Would it look remarkably shitty?

[Anonymous No.2548663]

>>2548654
Plywood strips to imitate laminated counter tops will look bad and not wear well, you would be better off with just using 3/4" or 1" oak ply for the top. But there are some decent solid wood counter tops out there for not much money, quick look and the big box stores sell 1 1/2"x25"x72" solid acacia tops for ~$200, is saving $100 per 6' of counter top worth all that time and effort?

If you want to go cheap either use hardwood ply without all the laminating or go thinner, you generally do not need a thick top, it is mostly aesthetic and that thickness can be faked if you want it.

[Anonymous No.2548680]

>>2548654
Woodworking is not a poor man’s hobby.

[Anonymous No.2548691]

>>2548654
Not sure what you mean exactly but pic related was/is a pretty popular designer style of table where I live. Birch plywood. It can look pretty good but if you don’t have a laser or cnc cutting the strips just right could be a challenge. I’ve never tried but I don’t think you can plane plywood edges by hand

[Anonymous No.2548704]

elbow hurts from taking a hump off this maple slab with a dull plane last night

[Anonymous No.2548713]

>>2548704
no one to blame but yuaserufu

[Anonymous No.2548715]

>>2548713
I'm not letting that kid anywhere near my shop

[Anonymous No.2548740]

>>2548704
Plane cross grain to remove wood quickly, as it nears thickness start going at and angle to the grain and slowly increase that angle until you are going with the grain for the final few passes. It will tear out when going cross grain but you can take a bigger bite and that short grain means the chip breaks almost instantly instead of curling up into a shaving, must less resistance. Slowly changing the angle will keep resistance lower while reducing tear out the closer you get to running with the grain. When you get the technique down 95% of the work will be done cross grain to 45 degrees where the work is less and the stroke is short.

Sharpen your plane.

Don't use just your arms, working a plane is a full body thing.

If you are a limber sort than skip the rickety saw horses, work on the floor. A couple 12" long boards thinner than the board you are working and butted up against the wall makes a wonderfully dead and stable work surface. Your work will go much quicker. If you are not the limber sort this will limber you up but you will feel it in the morning. Something between your knees and that concrete floor is a good idea if you do this.

[Anonymous No.2548849]

>>2548740
>Plane cross grain to remove wood quickly,
yeah I figured this out during the process. I've been going at 45 degrees for the majority of it because that seems to give me the most material removal while limiting tearout and I'm getting that good plane sound that way. However there are certain areas that like a different direction.
>Sharpen your plane.
stones just came in the mail last night
>Don't use just your arms, working a plane is a full body thing.
If I don't hold down the piece then the sawhorses move
>If you are a limber sort than skip the rickety saw horses, work on the floor.
I'm not, at all.
>A couple 12" long boards thinner than the board you are working and butted up against the wall makes a wonderfully dead and stable work surface. Your work will go much quicker. If you are not the limber sort this will limber you up but you will feel it in the morning. Something between your knees and that concrete floor is a good idea if you do this.
I might try the boards but on the sawhorses, still butted against the wall.

[Anonymous No.2548919]

I got a secondhand JET JWBS-14CS today. It's my first-ever bandsaw. What am I in for? It runs great, maybe a bit squeaky but I'm assuming I can fix by poking around and oiling some bearings. I want to get a thinner/narrower blade so I can cut curves with it; any recommendations? It came with a 1/2" blade. Anything to be wary of or helpful tips to know?

Also, any idea why prices on bandsaws jumped by a few hundred dollars a couple of years ago? "pandemic" seems like a cop-out answer for such a relatively simple piece of machinery.

[Anonymous No.2548941]

>>2548919
> What am I in for?

[Anonymous No.2549117]

>>2548919
>>2548941
Yup, iirc they are more prone to finger cutting than table saws are. But they don’t have kickback like table saws so I guess marginally safer if you do pay attention. You may want an e stop and or guard but hey I’m no osha inspector so do whatever

[Anonymous No.2549180]

>>2548941
>>2549117
Can't you just wear gloves to protect against this?

[Anonymous No.2549184]

>>2549180
No, they can get stuck and drag your hand further into and along the saw blade. Just keep your eyes on the blade and your hands away from it.

[Anonymous No.2549190]

>>2549180
>buys an $800 tool
>doesn't understand basic safety
Holy fucking kek. Get rid of the saw, kid. Before you lose any fingers.

[Anonymous No.2549199]

>>2549190
I'm not him. I would never dare to use such a saw. But I do wonder if there aren't some basic safety utilities that some people just forget and injure themselves worse. Maybe gloves don't work here, but safety glasses would for example protect your eyes.
I also wonder why electricians don't just wear isolation gloves.

[Anonymous No.2549202]

>>2548581
I’ve never seen it done splines first, but rather:
1. cut the miters
2. glue miters together, making sure everything’s square
3. let the glue set
4. cut the spine slots on a table saw (though I guess any saw will do, but using a table saw makes reaching consistent results very easy, once you’ve set it up that is)

[Anonymous No.2549210]

>>2548941
>>2549117
This sounds like what happens to people who are complacent and/or total retards. Table saws can have violent reactions, but how do you fuck yourself up with a bandsaw unless your hands are totally numb or you're rushing through cuts?

>>2549199
I imagine it has to do with dexterity. Probably at the thickness where it would provide enough protection it would be too thick for finer work, but I'm just making a blind guess here

[Anonymous No.2549213]

>>2549199
I think the basic rule is _never_ to wear gloves (or loose clohing, jewelry etc.) when using tools that you have to actively shut down (instead of just letting go of a trigger like when using a portable drill), since getting said apparel caught up in them means it will be harder for you to shut them down, meaning you will be pulled further in, meaning... you get the idea.
Just search for "lathe accident loose clothing" if you need some nightmare fuel on the topic.

[Anonymous No.2549221]

>>2549199
>if there aren't some basic safety utilities
there are, but american machines are 60 years behind european in term of guards and guides.
That bandsaw looks like something i could buy with date of manufacturing 1910.
Here the workplace doesnt pay for an accident, but an umbrella insurance. in return those demand the things that cost the most limbs to be addressed by the manufacturers.

[Anonymous No.2549224]

>>2549199
>I also wonder why electricians don't just wear isolation gloves.
electrician here
there is no need, you disconnect power, place lock and check for open circuit before starting to work anywhere.
All retards getting shocked broke the protocol already, so what would additional ppe they dont use even do? an gloves will not safe you if a fresh cut wire pierces them

[Anonymous No.2549239]

>>2549210
> who are complacent
Exactly. The cut where someone gets injured is the one that was done 90 times before that day. Seen it happen, mostly near misses of course, but people will rely on the jig and stop paying attention. It’s how the brains are wired (it becomes more and more difficult to keep paying attention over time, if there is no perceived reward from doing so)

Also for >>2549199, the answer from >>2549224 is spot on. If you fail to lototo, and can’t keep your hands away from the metal, and use unisolated tools, then gloves aren’t going to save you. The ergonomic cost vs effectiveness is just really low in most situations. Picture very related

[Anonymous No.2549296]

>>2549202
Thanks, I don’t have a table saw or but plan to use a 10mm chisel instead. Watched some videos now and doing it in that order seems best indeed.

[Anonymous No.2549308]

>>2549221
>That bandsaw looks like something i could buy with date of manufacturing 1910
What's the most recent / "newest" bandsaw you can point at which has safety features? Most anything would hamper operation and make it more difficult to use instead of helping keep users safe

[Anonymous No.2549313]

>>2549296
>mm

[Anonymous No.2549319]

>>2549313
Nobody says 1cm

[Anonymous No.2549340]

>>2549319
>cm

[Anonymous No.2549359]

r8 my hand tool beginner list of projects and if any suggestions or extra ideas please tell. I’d like to make most of this over the year or so not necessarily in this order

mallet, picture frame, box (with hinge and lock), simple drawer (under workbench just for tools), simple chair or stool, birdhouse

[Anonymous No.2549440]

How do I make a nightstand with a hidden gun compartment?

[Anonymous No.2549450]

>>2548919
>I want to get a thinner/narrower blade so I can cut curves with it; any recommendations?
two words: cool blocks, standard OEM guide blocks suck ass an make using small blades a nightmare.
Even with cool blocks and proper tension and adjusmment you have to pay attention and be patient when doing tight curves but those blocks are a sanity and blade saver.


>Anything to be wary of or helpful tips to know?

never stand to the side where broken blades shoot out, and always be ready for it regardless of where youre standing, they can break when you arent even cutting.

keep you fingers well away from the blade both when pushing material through and when moving cutoff pieces and scrap away from the blade

be super careful if you cut anything like dowels or other stock that can roll, because it will the moment it touches the blade

[Anonymous No.2549458]

>>2549440
It's called a drawer and most nightstands come with them.

[Anonymous No.2549459]

>>2549458
Drawers aren’t hidden you chucklefuck.

[Anonymous No.2549467]

>>2549459
Then figure it out yourself you dumb fucking monkey nigger.

[Anonymous No.2549479]

>>2549467
I never want to see you post in this thread again.

[Anonymous No.2549482]

>>2549479
Too late :^)

[Anonymous No.2549506]

>>2548919
Love my bandsaw, ignore the idiots who are saying you'll hurt yourself, just keep the guide slightly above what you're working on and you'll never have a problem, plus that channel through the cast iron top is going to be great to slide your jigs through when you get to that level.
Oil it up, have a good dust extraction and open it up and spray it out with some compressed air regularly. I'm assuming the squeak is likely because they've left wet sawdust in the cabinet for too long.
Prices on everything have jumped, it's called inflation sweaty.

[Anonymous No.2549761]

redpill me on staining maple dark

[Anonymous No.2549815]

>>2549308
>intentionally difficult
versus
>prone to losing your fingers
It really is up to personal attitude what you want to use.

[Anonymous No.2549861]

>>2549815
I see you haven't answered the question. Please show me a bandsaw with modern safety features.

[Anonymous No.2549864]

>>2549861
I don't know. But dangerous tools threads have many examples of safety features that many people find annoying. I'm not saying that safety features are good or bad, just that it depends on your personality.

[Anonymous No.2549867]

>>2547519
I'm probably about to take up a trade, and I'm drawn to construction. I'd like to eventually understand all of the nuances of architecture and home design from the framing to the wiring to the plumbing. I was looking into carpentry for a start, and the skill/craftsmanship of cabinet making really caught my attention (after being told that site carpentry is mostly just simpleton work).

Where I am from it looks like carpentry is much easier to get into. I see there are some specialized cabinet making programs that are pricey, take a few years to complete, don't offer as much intermittent pay in the meantime, and that I'd never be able to attend without relocating. So how much crossover does carpentry/cabinet making have? Can a carpenter with enough experience just get a job as a cabinet maker and vice versa for cabinet makers? Is cabinet making even something you need to care about a "degree"/certification to get real work?
The job availability and career paths are also a big concern. I see the basic wages look barely livable, and all these channels getting millions of views. Not sure if this means everybody is trying to just DIY all this stuff on their own, if machines are replacing, if the openings are shrinking etc. Not sure if theres much room for cabinet makers in my town. Its a bit daunting having to "go the extra mile" just to make ends meet. I have a good IQ, but have little experience with woodworking, so a bit unsure if I'll have the talent or connections to truly excel without having to start some vlog and open my garage to facebook marketplace.

[Anonymous No.2549887]

>>2549867
fine woodworking and cabinetry is not a "make ends meet" activity. It's an expensive hobby until you maybe get good enough to start selling pieces on the side for a while. You're not going to dive into it and make a living especially if you have to ask. Site carpentry is indeed much simpler because you're working with imprecise material that's simply bolted together and hidden. It's practical but not a fine art like cabinetry is. You're essentially asking if painting the walls of a house have any carryover to painting portraits or landscapes.

[Anonymous No.2549931]

>>2549867
90% cabinetry and finer woodworking is essentially the equivalent of framing/general construction, you make the same basic kitchen cabinets over and over with slight differences in aesthetics, few get to the point of doing 100% custom work. Starting in carpentry will generally give you an inroad to finish carpentry, starting as a grunt in a cabinet shop gives you an inroad there, would you rather spend your days framing or installing cabinets and breaking down plywood? Essentially you are just proving yourself and making connections to find the better job.

The standard path into the high end stuff that has less tedium is college, somewhere with a good design and architecture department mainly because it allows you to make the connections while developing your skills, much of the high end custom stuff is designed by architects for houses they designed and no surprise that they tend to go with people they know and know can do the job and often use the cabinet maker's name as part of the sales pitch to the client. These jobs cover everything from builtins to full dinning sets and even entire houses worth of furniture. This path also has the advantage of introducing you to design competitions which are good money for the person who also builds their own designs and can make ones name.

Both paths are primarily about networking and demonstrating your abilities. Neither path is certain and both have their advantages.

[Anonymous No.2549942]

I want to build a planter box this spring. My house had one when I moved in but the guy who lived here clearly knew nothing about building and it rotted away. I currently have no power tools. What is a company that makes nice saws, drills, and other woodworking tools that arent Harbor Freight tier?

[Anonymous No.2549949]

>>2549942
>clearly knew nothing about building and it rotted away.
Wood planters are disposable, they all rot away eventually unless you live in the desert and plant desert plants in it. Pressure treated can make them last a good while but most go aesthetic and would rather have something other than the sickly green of pressure treated and are ok with the decade or so which pine/fir/cedar offer.

[Anonymous No.2549950]

>>2549949
There’s a sawmill about an hour away from me that sells nice red cedar planks. Apparently they’re really rot-resistant compared to treated pine. Plus they look way better.

[Anonymous No.2549957]

>>2549950
Treated pine will be considerably longer lasting than cedar for a planter. Pine/fir/cedar will generally give around a decade for 3/4" stock, pine and fir have the advantage of being harder than cedar which means less likely to be damaged by garden tools which speeds death, in this use I find they all end up lasting about the same amount of time and they all turn grey so unless you are really going to keep up on the finish and give it a fresh coat every spring and fall they all look the same before they are a year old

Hardwoods can give a longer life, ipe and teak probably being the longest lasting but expensive, not fun to work and generally after about a decade many are going to have different needs in their planters anyways so building anew is not so bad. Ipe and teak are not really going to save money in the long run anyways they just shift the cost to being all up front instead of being spread out over a the decades. If you are in oak country and can get it cheap that can be a good middle ground, white more than red but you still probably will not save much if anything, double the lifespan and double the cost assuming you are somewhere where it is cheap for most oak makes not sense here.

[Anonymous No.2550054]

made Rex's sharpening station tonight

not sure I'm doing it totally right yet but that's okay

[Anonymous No.2550077]

Is it better to steam bend a piece of curved wood into a straight line when it's green or after it's dried out?
Also, are there places where you can pay to use steam bending services or do people usually rig their own steam box up in their backyard?

[Anonymous No.2550096]

>>2550077
Bending is always easier when green. Bending something straight is unlikely to work very well, especially for someone with no experience. If there is a place with steaming equipment for use it would probably be more expensive than setting yourself up for bending, steambox can be made very cheaply.

[Anonymous No.2550098]

>>2550096
There are only 2/3 areas I really need to straighten here, was hoping I could steam the thing for a few hours and then clamp it to shape against some boards

[Anonymous No.2550100]

>>2550098
There is always springback so you need to over bend but there is no set amount you over bend to, just takes practice and experience to develop the feel. That piece will probably not bend well either. If you want straight sticks go with saplings instead of branches.

[Anonymous No.2550105]

>>2549942
If you buy power tools just to make a planter box it will be a very expensive one. Do you have a use for them in the future? Why not make your first 100 cuts and holes with a hand saw/cordless drill to save money and time

I’m not anti power tools but buying an expensive mitre saw and drill press just for a planter box sounds a bit inefficient to me

[Anonymous No.2550201]

>>2550054
You’re using the wrong stuff
https://youtu.be/eom0qu5YO94

[Anonymous No.2550213]

Anyone who shills shellac should be lynched from the nearest tree.

[Anonymous No.2550221]

do I need to fill all these bug holes individually or is passive filling from lacquer ir whatever sufficient?

[Anonymous No.2550278]

>>2550221
Lacquer? I don’t even know her.

[Anonymous No.2550291]

>>2550054
build some nice boxes for them, anon.
that is all you will ever need.
If the arkansas doesnt produce visible swarf on the first few strokes, you should recondition one side.
Better a fast than an ultra fine stone in that progression.

[Anonymous No.2550354]

>>2550201
Diamond stones or CBN stones are probably the current fastest, though they supposedly aren't good as far as the ones finer than 1k. I use a 1k diamond, then strop currently. I have rougher ones for setting up a tool initially but only use 1k and stropping after that. Sand paper IMO costs too much long term, and I think it is annoying to have to remove and re-glue constantly. Oil and water stones work well still for regular sharpening, but suck if you are doing an initial setup on a tool.

[Anonymous No.2550358]

>>2550354
>but suck if you are doing an initial setup on a tool
because people start with way to high grit. On a new tool the grinding marks are ~80 grit, if you want to see progress fast you either use a coarse crystolone, or sprinkle some >f80 silicon carbide on the coarse side of a norton india. That is in the ballpark of 120 sandpaper.
Sanding wood a lot of people go from 80 to 120 grit, but on the backside of a chisel they think going from 80 to 500 is a good idea

[Anonymous No.2550386]

>>2547519
I want to build a hog wire fence. Plan is to use 4x4x8 posts and 2x4x8 boards as a top panel. Is cedar worth the additional cost? Or would I be good going with pine?

If anyone is knowledgeable on fencing, I also have some questions on the best way to bury snake fencing.

[Anonymous No.2550455]

>>2550201
sorry but I'm going to trust the guy named Krueger over the guy named Katz-Moses if you know what I mean

[Anonymous No.2550461]

>>2550201
Does not really matter what you use, more about learning to use it. Back when I was poor and just starting out in wood working I used a couple bricks that were edging the garden of the house I moved into. Had a sandstone brick for coarse work and a clay brick for fine, I flattened them by rubbing them on the sidewalk. Worked just fine, the grit in the sandstone was not very even in grain but it cut fast enough, the clay brick was very fine and it took some time to polish after the sandstone but I only used the sand stone when I needed to repair damage or the like, learned to hone often on the clay and keep things sharp.
>>2550213
It is great stuff when you use it for what it is good for.
>>2550354
Sandpaper is great for reshaping a blade/fixing damage if you lack a grinding wheel. 80 grit belt sander belt cut open and taped down to something reasonably flat with carpet tape makes short work of it especially if you have a honing guide, having 2 or 3 feet of length to work down is a huge improvement over any stone as far as speed is concerned. Cheap enough for that occasional damaged blade. The very fine diamond stones are easily damaged but work well, with the DMT stones their extra-fine is that way, they fine and coarse are fantastic, extra coarse is eh.
>>2550358
>but on the backside of a chisel they think going from 80 to 500 is a good idea
It is not exactly a bad idea, just slow. Sometimes you have to make do with what you have and 80 to 500 will be much quicker than just 500 all the way.

[Anonymous No.2550517]

>>2550461
>>2550358
>>2550354
Since you guys seem to know things about sharpening, I have a question. I have 3 good chisels and 2 planes to sharpen every now and then. What would you guys recommend as a cheap-ish beginner setup? Just automotive sandpaper like Krueger does? Or a combination of sandpaper and wetstone? I’m getting more and more into the hobby of fine woodworking but I’d like to keep this under $100 if possible

[Anonymous No.2550538]

>>2550517
You can get the two sided DMT Dia-sharp kit for under $100, 6" stones are not the best if you use a honing guide but it is only really an issue if you need to do some serious material removal but stones in general are not great for that and really a job for a grinder or the belt sander belt method I mentioned above.
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-6-Dia-Sharp-Kit-P404C166.aspx

The super-sharp/sandpaper method will quickly get expensive if you do much wood working but is perfectly fine if you just do a few projects a year. As I said above, it is more about learning to use the method you pick than the method itself. Main thing is to avoid the cheap hardware store synthetic stones, even my bricks worked better than those, the Norton synthetic stones are pretty good and probably in your price range.

[Anonymous No.2550608]

Can you really soak projects in denatured alcohol for a few days to rapidly accelerate the drying process without excessive checking, or is this a meme?

[Anonymous No.2550616]

>>2550608
Sounds gay and retarded. Have patience or get wood that's already dried. I can't imagine that it's an economical use of denatured alcohol (which, coincidentally, has far less ethanol in its mixture than it used to).

[Anonymous No.2550620]

>>2550608
Sort of, it will get the moisture out of the wood quicker but there is more to drying than removing moisture which is why kiln dried wood is not quite as stable as air dried and you can "dry" wood underwater. The wood also needs to cure which is a structural change in the wood that prevents it from absorbing moisture, alcohol will not speed this up and the wood will still readily absorb moisture. Kiln drying does speed this up some and will get the wood good enough for most uses, air drying is slow enough that it cures at the same rate as it dries since it will not actually be dry until the wood has cured enough to cease being able to absorb much moisture. Going underwater skips the dry and focuses on the cure, the wood is saturated so can not expand or contract and once cured and pulled out of the water it quickly loses all that moisture since the wood no longer has those structure which absorb moisture.

So, you will get rid of the water but the wood can and will suck up moisture from the air as it would when still green. This can make cracking and warping worse, depends on the wood and what you do with it.

[Anonymous No.2550635]

The iron in my plane keeps retreating back after a few passes no matter how hard I try to clamp it. What gives?

[Anonymous No.2550644]

>>2550635
dull blade
not making good contact with the frog
cap iron is not making good contact with blade assembly
chip breaker is too close to the edge for depth of cut
chip breaker edge is blunt
Or any combination of those.

When the cap iron screw is set right you should be able to adjust blade depth without releasing the cap iron, any tighter and you are risking damage to the plane or cap iron.

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2550647]

I'm going to be tearing down and rebuilding/ slight redesign on my teardrop trailer. Commiefornia rainstorms got in and left a 1/4" of water sitting inside for over a week when it was in storage. Will post progress pics if people are interested

[Anonymous No.2550651]

>read book
>main character takes wood from a sacred tree
>main character immediately starts working with green wood rather than waiting a year per inch for it to dry out first
>drop book

[Anonymous No.2550654]

>>2550644
man I don't even have half those parts. Serves me right for getting the Amazon Basics plane. Any suggestions for a better set?

[Anonymous No.2550656]

>>2550654
Planes don't need all those parts, I just attempted to cover the bases since you neglected to provide the required information to actually answer the question.

[Anonymous No.2550658]

>>2550656
I don't know what else to tell you. The iron is freshly sharpened, no frog, no chipbreaker. Tried the setting the cap iron in several different spots and made sure it was making full contact with the iron.

This is the one I have. Not going to break my heart if I have to replace it.
https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Basics-Adjustable-Universal-Woodworking/dp/B07V3QLZ5Y

[Anonymous No.2550659]

>>2550658
The frog is essentially the same as the blade bed, chances are it an/or the iron is not flat. Blade bed can be flattened with a file, blade with stone or sand paper on a flat surface and patience.

[Anonymous No.2550660]

>>2550659
wait a minute I might be retarded. Which way does the iron bevel go, up or down?

[Anonymous No.2550661]

>>2550660
Generally down but you can flip it over for a high angle scrapping plane sort of action that will put a fine finish on the toughest of grain. When properly tuned the plane should have no issues with an upside down blade.

[Anonymous No.2550662]

>>2550661
It was up. I flipped it over and now it works great. Thanks

[Anonymous No.2550667]

>>2550651
There is green woodworking. He could be making a sacred Windsor chair

[Anonymous No.2550703]

>>2550662
There are so many things that need doing on that plane to make it usable but by far the most important one in my opinion is to get rid of those two advancement screws (including the threaded rods they sit on) and just hammer setting the plane. My god is that mechanism obnoxious.
Aside from that I know the back of the blade (the side without the bevel) isn't even approaching flat so it needs a lot of lapping. The contacting edge of the cap iron also needs to be flattened so it actually makes good contact. The bed needs to be filed flat from the mountainous landscape the factory put on there and the sole needs to be lapped too (blade needs to be in the plane when doing this because the body flexes when you clamp the blade down). The sides on mine (from Stanley but same plane) were so far out of square that I wouldn't even bother but you kind of have to if you want it to shoot properly.

[Anonymous No.2550717]

>>2550703
I find those twin screw planes far better than the standard Stanley way of hiding the depth adjustment behind the frog but I have never used the Amazon version, just the old twin screw Stanleys. As long as you have the cap iron set right so you do not need to loosen it to adjust the blade it works just fine in my experience.

If the plane body flexes when you clamp the iron down you are over tightening it.

[Anonymous No.2550725]

>>2550717
All plane soles flex a minuscule amount when you clamp down the iron. Conventional advice is to have the blade clamped in when lapping the sole. The wafer thin casting just exacerbates the issue. The amount of work you have to do to make it take a good shaving is too much. You just can't make a workable iron plane for those absurdly low prices.
I would steer clear of that plane and just buy an old wooden smoother instead. They are far cheaper and far superior.

[Anonymous No.2550729]

>>2550221
if you put enough lacquer in them it will fill them but the holes will still be visible. If you mix some sawdust with a little bit of woodglue, and fill the holes with that, it will dry hard and after you lacquer over that you won't be able to tell there were ever any holes there unless you look super close. I have seen people that will even cut really shallow grooves and paint lines through those filled holes in order to mimic the wood grain appearance. Im sure that would look even better but just filling it is more than enough, as long as the sawdust/glue mixture is the right shade.

[Anonymous No.2550769]

>>2550658
>>2550717
Am I tripping or are these two the same?

[Anonymous No.2550775]

>>2550729
I don't think I necessarily want to hide them. In fact the front edge of the piece shows a lot of the tunnels in cross-section so I think it'll be somewhat of a feature.

[Anonymous No.2550776]

>>2550769
It's not just you. This is very common. Neither Amazon nor Stanley are making these. They purchase them from a (probably Chinese) manufacturer with their own logo on it for next to nothing and dump them all over the market at a ridiculously low price.

[Anonymous No.2550823]

>>2550776
That’s crazy, would have least expected the Stanley one to be their own design. If the Amazon one was an imitation they would have sewed. I have the Stanley one and am slowly beginning to like it though, only very big downside is the adjustment wheels and threads started rusting almost immediately even though I keep it clean and oiled

[Anonymous No.2550824]

>>2550517
just buy a norton india or similar, a strop, some 3in1 and stick with it for a while. put metal polish paste on the strop and dont obsess over the backside of the iron not being perfect. with a strop it will get sharp anyway.
Sharpening is a huge rabbit hole with people justifying their 800 dollar spent on redundant gear. So dont get fooled, the cheap stuff does the job too.
>>2550658
we had this topic a couple months back
make sure the cap iron is on triangular and not flat. Else you dont get pressure at the tip
>>2550608
look up brine drying
>>2550769
dont get why people dont buy second hand wooden planes instead of these pos

[Anonymous No.2550833]

>>2550824
>dont get why people dont buy second hand wooden planes instead of these pos
didn't find any locally and don't necessarily trust ebay. Figured for $20 it's worth a try.

[Anonymous No.2550835]

>>2550833
That's presumably how they make any money off of them. I threw mine out because it was driving me up the wall.

[Anonymous No.2550857]

Picked up a pallet of drop cuts from the local lumberyard. $200 total, tons of maple, mahogany, and cherry.

I'm running out of space to store all this lumber, but their pallets are such a bargain I cant turn them down. I've made a ton of money off small crafts and cutting boards from these.

Stop rangebanning my IP gookmoot

[Anonymous No.2550859]

>>2550455

I implicitly distrust katz moses and I don't know why. Probably the name. I don't find him generally incorrect about anything in particular, he's just... unlikable.

Rex on the other hand just seems so much more earnest.

[Anonymous No.2550883]

>>2550857
You got all of that lumber for $200? Fuck me, that's a good deal. What's the catch?

[Anonymous No.2550886]

>>2550883

Nothing. I just buy from them a lot so they sell me these loads cheap.

Theres always a few pieces in there that are unusable, but normally its gold.

Here's the walnut alone I got from one of the other pallets I bought from them. They cant easily sell the drops and they often are too short for them to use (as in house they make trim, do tabletops, and the like) so they bundle them up and do a rotating call list where they offer the pallets as they come available. Most people don't want to deal with the storage or having a bunch of scrap pieces of various sorts laying around, but I don't mind.

[Anonymous No.2550929]

>>2550886
Shit, man, at that price you could burn it for heat and come out on top.

[Anonymous No.2550963]

>>2550835
You should break it apart with a hammer first. A poor tweaker may dig it out of your garbage and be frustrated trying to plane things building his meth shack.

[Anonymous No.2551030]

>>2550725
If the plane flexes with the cap iron set properly it will flex from being used because of the wood acting on the blade so can never actually be flat. If the sole flexes than the cap iron is too tight.
>>2550833
It will be fine, you may have some work to do flatening the sole and iron bed but you should be able to get it working well. The one catch with this plane is the lack of chip breaker which will make it difficult to get a tear out free surface in some woods but by that point you will want more than one plane anyways and this one will do well for the rough work.

[Anonymous No.2551042]

>>2550833
Ebay is fine if the seller uploads good pictures. Major blade rust and worm holes are no gos, next is cracks and grooves in the sole, Signs of abuse.
On horn planes the horns are often loose. The newer laquerd ones fare generallly better here as they are not 50 years old.
I look from time to time, tons of new old stock for 1/3 the now mrsp

[Anonymous No.2551185]

What do I need to start out with woodcarving? I currently have various sandpaper grits, a blunt Mora and a lot of free time

[Anonymous No.2551228]

>>2551185
>a lot of free time
Then sharpen that knife and have at it.

[Anonymous No.2551276]

Anyone know how I can get an "aged" old finish on my wood?
I'm making some planters and I want this sort of look.

[Anonymous No.2551281]

>>2551276
These specific ones are burned, you can use a weeding torch, burn first then sand after to contrast more of the pattern. The ashes are believed to protect against rot

[Anonymous No.2551283]

>>2551281
>The ashes are believed to protect against rot
they also leech toxic shit into your soil if you charr the insides

[Anonymous No.2551306]

>>2551283
Just curious, how does one treat the inside of a planter without the risk of toxins? Afaik treated lumber leeches copper and bisphenol, plastic liner will put chemicals and microplastics into the soil as it degrades, poly leeches formaldehyde and unfinished wood will just rot.

[Anonymous No.2551321]

>>2551306
Use lumber rated for playground equipment.

[Anonymous No.2551385]

>>2551321
That's just treated wood
>>2551306
I personally just use untreated timber, I've seen guys use wood from basic-ass, untreated palette wood and it weathers more than a few years as a planter just fine even without any stains or oils

[Anonymous No.2551386]

>>2551306
>unfinished wood will just rot
not necessary
first, use a lumber that resists rot. in europe that would be oak or sibearian larch or douglas fir.
leave small gaps between the boards for air circulation.
if you only water the plants, the dirt touching the wall will shrink as it dries and separates from the wood. Such a box should resist 20 years, even one made from spruce should last ~8

[Anonymous No.2551387]

>>2551385
I used untreated pine once for a big planter and the worms and molds had found their way through before the end of the first winter. Maybe it’s climate related, we can go for weeks without dry soil

[Anonymous No.2551395]

>>2551387
did you leave the sap on?

[Anonymous No.2551397]

>>2547519
It's been couple months since I put oil finish on my plywood (a small stand for my desk to make the work area match new chair height) but it still smells of oil. And feels weird to touch, not really tacky but when touching it I'm afraid it's gonna stay on my fingers but then I don't feel there is much left on them.

Is the long lasting smell typical for tung oil? It's got some other oils mixed in too but they don't state what precisely. Could this get better if I added a wax finish on top of that?

[Anonymous No.2551400]

>>2551397
Sounds like too much oil. Only a very thin layer will polymerise the rest goes rancid when left on, even when it soaks in (just stays liquid between the cells). Not sure how to fix it, but I guess you could try removing some with a light solvent and apply a proper tiny layer afterwards

[Anonymous No.2551404]

>>2551400
>could try removing some with a light solvent
the way to get that off is hard soap or sodium hydroxide. you cannot dissolve it you can only strip it and start over

[Anonymous No.2551405]

>>2551400
Thanks for responding. How thin is it supposed to be? When applying I put on some oil with a brush, waited ~10min and then wiped off the excess. Waited at least couple days between coats (and only 2 of them in total I think). Could that have been too much depending on how much oil I applied with the brush? I was hoping the wood wouldn't be able to soak in too much oil in that short time.

[Anonymous No.2551422]

>>2550647
Yes please

[Anonymous No.2551426]

>>2551405
I use raw linseed oil and apply it using a piece of denim. About 2 teaspoons to a square foot or 6 table spoons per square meter

[Anonymous No.2551443]

>Wanna learn how to cut a Mortise for a project
>Look up instruction online
>It is literally either a guy doing it with zero electricity and 50 different hand gadgets
>or he pulls out a drill press, router, tablesaw, 8 jigs, a nuclear reactor, and a team of scientists for one fucking mortise
I'm a normal hobbyist, I got a Circular Saw, drill and a few handsaws, chisels, clamps... Is there no BALANCED way to go about this?

I haven't sworn off electricity but I don't own a woodshop either

[Anonymous No.2551456]

>>2551443

Mark it with a chisel and take your time.

If you're not comfortable with the chisel take out the bulk of the material with a forstner bit then finish it up with a chisel.

[Anonymous No.2551461]

>>2551443
>narcisists online love to show off
Nothing new under the sun.

[Anonymous No.2551466]

>>2551306
CCA treatment has been replaced with ACQ. Redwood or Cedar is exterior grade if you want nontreated.

>>2551443
Router and router jig. Finish with chisel or use a tenon with radius ends. None of the power tools you listed are great at small area precision plunging. You could get the job done with just a chisel or the drill and a chisel. A drill press is slightly better. It's really hard to beat a router though at routing.

[Anonymous No.2551467]

>>2551456
>forstner
good call

[Anonymous No.2551497]

>>2551443
I use a mortise gauge, square, knife and mortise chisel. Set the gauge, mark the cheeks, square and knife to mark the ends. Quick and simple. Sometimes I do miss the mortising bits in the drill press but then I think about setting the fence and sharpening those bits and I don't miss it anymore.

[Anonymous No.2551542]

Is there something like a cheap rip saw? A cheap cross cut is like €12 but I don’t see any hardware store that sells a cheap rip saw. Hardware store brands like Stanley don’t seem to have them (bahco has one but it’s a Japanese saw not a normal rip saw)

[Anonymous No.2551549]

>>2551443
Sharp normal chisel, saw and hammer will do just fine.

Sellers doesn’t use anything else but uses a lot of fancy sharpening and measuring and marking stuff. Skip that, a box cutter and square will do just fine.

If you don’t have chisels or the tools to sharpen them, buy a cheap file. You go close with your saw and file away the rest (it’s slow, a float works faster but few people have one). Takes longer but less tools.

If you have a fret saw, use that for the mortise, if you have a drill press, use that, etc.

[Anonymous No.2551575]

>>2551549
The cheeks of many mortises can not be marked out with your standard square. Most mortises can not be sanely cut with a saw. Fret saw for a mortise? if you are doing a thru tenon then a coping saw can be used but it is not great, fret saws are far too fine and fragile and generally have a shallow throat, would take hours. A $20 mortise chisel like the Narax is a far better path and about the same price as most cheap fret saws.

You should probably spend less time watching Paul and more time working wood.

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2551712]

>>2551422
I finished stripping it down today, gotta wait til Monday to pick up some metal and I'll be widening the trailer frame. The wood in the pic is removed already, just didn't get another picture.

[Anonymous No.2551736]

>he doesn't exclusively work with green wood like his medieval ancestors
ngmi

[Anonymous No.2551743]

>>2551736
>he thinks his medieval ancestors did not know how to dry and cure lumber and use such lumber
Already failed.

[Anonymous No.2551756]

>>2547519
This thing is clearance at harbor freight for $240 right now (40% off all clearance items promo) Should I? I've always wanted a lathe would it be an acceptable starter lathe for the price? It seems like a good deal for 240

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2551799]

>>2551756
If you get it, make a shelf on those cross supports and add ballast to keep it from shaking itself to pieces. It's good enough to try out and see if you really use it enough to invest in something better.

[Anonymous No.2551822]

Going to bust out the power tools tomorrow. Need to rip some 36" long pieces of walnut. Never used a table saw before.

[Anonymous No.2551823]

I'm thinking about flipping the top panel over on my workbench for a fresh start. What can I coat/treat it with to add some protection and make it cleanable? Maybe even add some color.

[Anonymous No.2551835]

>>2551575
> The cheeks of many mortises can not be marked out with your standard square
This is just false

> Fret saw for a mortise? if you are doing a thru tenon then a coping saw can be used but it is not great,
Not sure what the difference is between the saws because not my first language, but you intentionally read that wrong anyway. If you have a fret/coping saw and a normal chisel, you can save time on through tenon mortises. Anon was asking for a balanced way, big drill or fret saw are tools that many people own, mortise chisel isn’t

[Anonymous No.2551845]

>>2551823
Just wax it. Don't overthink workbench tops.
>>2551835
>This is just false
No, its not.
> you intentionally read that wrong anyway
No I didn't. What do you know about my intent?
>If you have a fret/coping saw and a normal chisel, you can save time on through tenon mortises
Vast majority of the time just chopping it with a standard chisel will be faster than drilling a hole, threading a saw, sawing it out and then cleaning it up with a chisel. Not even a contest.

[Anonymous No.2551896]

>>2551845
I mean if you have a power drill and a regular chisel it's even faster to hog out 80% of the waste with the drill and then take it to final dimensions with the chisel.
I've heard bad things about the squareness of the Narex mortise chisels. Any comments? I don't really want to buy an overly expensive one from LN or a retarded expensive one from Veritas.

[Anonymous No.2552023]

>>2551896
mortise chisels are meant for large mortises on timber frame structures. no one stops you from using a regular bench chisel for these tiny furniture ones.
a mortise chisel is not square anyway, it is trapezoidal shaped with 1-2° taper.
MHG makes the best chisel in continental europe (plane but functional) and they are priced very competitive

[Anonymous No.2552027]

>>2552023
I've been using regular bench chisels but I have a bigger project coming up that's gonna need a lot of deep and dainty mortises so I figure it's worth it. I'm not really a fan of levering my 1/4" dovetailing chisel at the bottom of a mortise. I was already looking at MHG and your endorsement settles it.

[Anonymous No.2552055]

>>2551896
Narex are good, have no problems with my set and they are certainly better than the Sorbys they replaced.
>>2552023
Mortise chisels for cabinetry have bee made for centuries, regular bench chisels flex too much, the side bevels will wedge into the wood limiting your depth for each chop, and the bevel is too shallow for effective chopping and prying.
>>2552027
If you have much mortising to do than a proper mortise chisel would be a better idea, much faster.

[Anonymous No.2552059]

>>2552055
>regular bench chisels flex
if you are flexing a 200mm long bar of 61hrc hardened steel, you are a caveman.
that argument is beyond grasping at straws
>the side bevels will wedge into the wood limiting your depth for each chop
inb4 anon does a blind mortise on 1/2" stock.
whatever, consooooooooooooooooooooooom more tools

[Anonymous No.2552067]

>>2551823
I like dark a dark stain and then wax, it contrasts most wood shavings and hides dark spots. Since it looks like wood you could also plane it.

[Anonymous No.2552071]

>>2551756
Interested also. I've been poking around for a lathe for weeks.

[Anonymous No.2552072]

>>2551896
They aren't square, and aren't supposed to be. Mortise chisels can be registered or non registered. Registered means it is square, non registered is actually slightly trapezoidal. They both work. When using, I personally don't notice a real difference. Ymmv though.

>>2552023
No? In timber framing you auger the waste out and finish with a chisel. Typical mortise sizes are around 1.5" wide, and are always through mortises. Mortise chisels resist twisting when being pounded with their wider sides (even the non registered) and can take greater abuse when prying out waste since they're much thicker. Nothing stopping you from using a normal bench chisel for mortises though. It is just slightly less optimal. Many people never use them.

[Anonymous No.2552073]

>>2551756
just keep in mind you will pay 3x that price for the tooling.
Even a chink 4 jaw is 80€ here, a brand one starts at 200
Turning is not a cheap hobby to dab into

[Anonymous No.2552088]

>>2552059
>that argument is beyond grasping at straws
No, it really is not, mallet blows flex a chisel and you loose a fair amount of the impact on each blow to that flex, very noticeably in harder woods.
>inb4 anon does a blind mortise on 1/2" stock.
He is doing deep 1/4" mortises, so probably 3/4" stock or wider, blade flex is very noticeable on a 1/4" chisel unless the blade is very short. Does not take much to snap a 1/4" chisel when prying chips out of the bottom of a deep mortise.
>whatever, consooooooooooooooooooooooom more tools
He is already buying another chisel anyways.
>>2552072
>In timber framing you auger the waste out and finish with a chisel
Both methods are used, depends on the wood and the size/shape of the mortise in question.

[Anonymous No.2552100]

I want to waste some money on my cnc.

Should I run a 220 line and change my spindle from a 1.5 kw 110v version to a 2.2kw 220? I'd be able to use 1/2 inch bits then which would be handy at times.

Or should I buy one those cool new jtech 24 watt diode lasers? It hurts me to spend that much for a diode laser but being able to use it on my 32x48 machine would probably be more useful than a much much smaller co2 laser.

I have a little 400x430 diode laser with way less power that I use sometimes. The size is a major limitation but it is worth the price of admission for signing work if nothing else. It would be nice to not have to drag out a separate unit and laptop to run that laser whenever I needed a small job

Total cost is about $750 for option 1 all in vs about $1400 for 2. I sometimes make money from my cnc but its primarily a hobby.

[Anonymous No.2552120]

>>2552100
Do you use it more as a cnc or as a laser cutter? Imo the combination isn’t that efficient (cncs are way overpowered and often relatively slow compared to dedicated laser cutters because of the much higher stiffness constraints which give them more moving mass). I don’t have big a laser but sign stuff with an engraving bit on the cnc right after cutting

[Anonymous No.2552124]

>>2552088
I'm not certain what size stock it will be yet. It depends on what the lumberyard has, but you're right in that I'm aiming for 3/4", maybe 1". I already have a 1/4" chisel though, so I don't exactly HAVE to buy a new one but MHG is under 25€ so it seems worth it to avoid the headache.

[Anonymous No.2552125]

>>2552120

I only use it as a cnc. My current laser is a small standalone chinese unit that works just fine, but is smaller than I would like for some engraving projects and the small size and difficulty of accurately indexing makes doing "tiled" jobs iffy.

I would get one of the cheaper units because I'm a little skeptical of cutting with a diode, but the cost isn't much higher for a 24w than a 14w. I probably wouldnt cut with it a lot, but I can think of some pretty cool ideas for joinery.

[Anonymous No.2552136]

>>2552124
I would go with the Narex which is about the same price just because it is a mortise chisel and will compliment your other chisel better, it is designed to do those things which your dovetail fails at. Or did HMG start making a mortise chisel? I gave a quick look but did not see one.

[Anonymous No.2552137]

>>2551822

Not to state the obvious but only cut boards that sit fairly flat and which have at least a relatively clean edge. Tablesaws can and will throw shit.

[Anonymous No.2552138]

>>2552136
I'm talking about MHG mortise chisels. I'm not buying any more bench chisels.

[Anonymous No.2552141]

>>2552138
Ahh, those do not come up in my searches, probably because burger and not available here yet, google is trying to be smart again. Should do the job well.

[Anonymous No.2552145]

>>2552141
>not available here yet
dude they are very likely in production since the fall of the berlin wall

[Anonymous No.2552146]

>>2552072
Pic is a set of narex mortise chisels, a typical timber framing chisel, and a slick (no handle yet I'm afraid). The timber tools are big chunguses.

[Anonymous No.2552150]

>>2552141
Yeah I'm a yuropoor. Looking at it I'm wondering if the rounded portion of iron right at the tang should be of concern. I mean it's not thin looking by any means but comparing it to how beefy the Narex is and the antique ones I've seen it just looks wrong. I'm just prejudiced against Narex because I bought their marking knife long ago and it was hardened way beyond usable so the tip would snap off just using it normally and apparently that's very common.

[Anonymous No.2552153]

>>2552146
Here is a Miller's Falls? beam drill. It relies on the screw on the auger to feed. The handles only rotate the spindle. You sit on the base to secure it in place. The rack allows you to use the crank handles to retract the auger from the beam once you're done drilling. Need to track down a 1.5" auger for this one. Or cut the shank off of an auger and turn an adapter.

[Anonymous No.2552156]

>>2552145
And no one in the US carries them so google gives me pages about other mortise chisels you can get in the US because google. HMG chisels are not common in the US.
>>2552150
Narex is about average in size, heftier than the old Stanley mortise chisels (and probably the LN which are based off the Stanely), almost identical to my Sorbys but the Sorby are longer, pretty much only pig stickers and timber mortisers are beefier. The Narex will be a bit stronger than the HMG, primarily because of that rounded portion, blade is kept full thickness right to the handle instead of thinned down purely for aesthetics but both will be plenty strong and this distinction is academic.

[Anonymous No.2552159]

>>2552153
Forgot file lol

[Anonymous No.2552167]

>>2552150
im a not really a steel wanker since a lot of my favorites are antiques, but you asked about their toughness.
Narex uses a cheaper CrMo steel on anything not from the Richter line, which is their premium.
The Richter line, mhg, kirschen, they all very likely use silversteel (since its abundant) with maxed out heat treatment. They make power planer blades out of that shit

[Anonymous No.2552181]

These are the right angles for a block plane right? It seems pretty easy to make one out of beech, question is could I use an old chisel instead of buying an iron?

[Anonymous No.2552188]

>>2552167
>maxed out heat treatment
That would be terrible for a mortise chisel, blade would break rather easily, especially in the thinner sizes. Generally mortise chisels are a bit softer than bench chisels so they can hold up to the prying better which is why you often find antique mortise chisels that are bent. I have tools with a wide variety of steels, there is not much difference in them, notice it mostly when sharpening.
>>2552181
Go 45 degree bevel down for wood body. same working angle and it will last considerably longer since the wood behind the throat is better supported.. 45 degree bevel down also means you can flip the blade and use it as a small scraping plane as well, gives you a 70 degree angle. Beech is not great for plane soles, most oaks, hornbeam, boxwood, lignum vitae are all better for abrasion resistance, but beech is not terrible and I have made a few planes out of it over the years. Chisel works but the bevel edges can be troublesome, moreso in bevel down but it really depends on how fine those side bevels are.

[Anonymous No.2552193]

>>2552188
With a chisel at 45° it sounds more like a hags tooth than a block plane.

[Anonymous No.2552199]

>>2552188
Thanks, saw some people doing it like that but didn't really know the implications of up/down. I just want something low angle to cut thin pieces of end grain easily and have tons of beech scrap so thought this would be a fun project. But I have some European Oak too if that’s better

[Anonymous No.2552206]

>>2552188
>That would be terrible for a mortise chisel
heat treatment is not only the hardening process. Of course they are tempered to not shatter. Breaking such modern toolsteel is simply headcanon, that shit is >5x more rigid than the equivalent cross section of rebar
>which is why you often find antique mortise chisels that are bent.
this is mainly the case because old chisels are not through hardened. For example, laminated ones simply cannot be

[Anonymous No.2552218]

>>2552193
~45 was the standard for wooden block planes, going much lower leaves you with a short lived plane, the wood behind the mouth break out fairly quickly, with that low angle it can not take the stresses for long. Low bed angle wooden planes were very much specialty tools and sparingly used due to their short lifespan.
>>2552199
Bevel up with 25 degree bevel and 20 degree bed = 45 degree cutting angle, so same as a 45 degree bevel down. Low angle planes tend to be around 35 degrees once you add bevel angle to bed angle. 45 degrees works fine for end grain, slightly more chance of chipping out at the end and a little harder to push. End grain eats wood soles, so plan for that. Low angle and end grain working planes were the first to be commonly made of metal for good reason. Not a huge deal, you will just have to flatten the sole and resole more often than you would if you were working down the grain.

To see which wood you have will work the best for a plane just take a scrap and rub it back and forth on some end grain a few dozen times with some downward pressure, see what shows the least wear.
>>2552206
Silversteel is not modern, pretty much the Euro name for W1, tends to have a little more chromium in it than W1. It is literally the standard water hardening tool steel.

Who said anything about laminated? This is a common issue with even the sought after old Stanley socket mortise chisels which supposedly have that good old hard steel that is so much better than everything modern.

[Anonymous No.2552233]

>>2548227
>If your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a thumb.

If your only tool is a thumb, every hammer looks like a problem.

[Anonymous No.2552234]

>>2552218
>Silversteel is not modern
no but purity and the hardening/termpering processes are. Youre antiques were not induction forged and cryo chilled for example.
>Who said anything about laminated?
that was an example, old chisel were never through hardened along their whole length. Plain carbon steel can not take that abuse, so the last 1/4 and the tang is at most in the region of sawblade hard

[Anonymous No.2552239]

>>2552100
>>2552125
>diode laser
Keep in mind it won't be able to cut clear acrylic and that you'll need several passes to cut most things that aren't thin sheets - things that take some people literally 20-30 minutes on their diode cutters/engravers take me maybe 5 on my 100W CO2, and that's on 10-15% power

[Anonymous No.2552240]

>>2552146
What in hell is a 3" chisel used for?

[Anonymous No.2552262]

>>2552240
Doorlocks

[Anonymous No.2552287]

>>2552234
>Youre antiques were not induction forged and cryo chilled for example.
That is about refining grain more than anything, does not increase the strength in this regard but does help edge retention.
>old chisel were never through hardened along their whole length
A great many were, Stanleys absolutely were. The depth of the hardening is pretty much the same for W1 and Silversteels, this is a function of the quench liquid and its ability to remove the heat from the steel, to increase the depth you need to change the quench and the steel. The water hardening steels will through harden for the vast majority of chisel sized objects. At 1" thickness depth of hardness will be about 3/16", at chisel size the quench is more efficient and goes deeper but lets go with 3/16", that is 3/16" from all sides so most old chisels and all plane blades are actually through hardened with 1/2" and up mortise chisels being the exception but even my old Stanley 1/8" got twisted during a particularly deep mortise.

Irregularity in hardness along length comes more from tempering but you pretty much have to go to pre industrial revolution to see that and even then it is not the rule and depends on the markers method for tempering. Most everyone switched to ovens since it made tempering far more controllable and easier to do for large quantities. The cause of this irregularity in hardness was from applying the heat at the ass end of the blade and watching the color change down the blade, this left the ass end softer. But that is one off type work, before ovens the standard way was on a plate of steel over a fire, the plate evens the heat and allows you to do many at once with ease, but you still needed to watch it.

You seem to have swallowed every bit of marketing on steel that the tool manufactures throw out there.

[Anonymous No.2552313]

>>2552239

Yeah, I know. If I get it, it's more for wood burnings than cutting, but the cost of the more cut capable diode is not that much more than the lower tier ones, and it includes the air assistance nozzles.

Cutting with a diode is a pretty miserable experience IMO so it would be rare I used the capability and only for something ultra thin kerf or with some weird finger joints or something. But to have a CO2 laser with the cut / burn area of my cnc machine would cost far more than it is worth to me.

[Anonymous No.2552444]

>>2552240
That is for paring. The handle that is supposed to be on there is a very long one that you use with two hands. You can use it to pare your tenons. It almost looks like a mini boat oar with the long handle.

[Anonymous No.2552658]

Can you leave wood under weights for an extended period of time to straighten it out, or will that just weaken/snap the wood given there's no initial softening of the fibres?

[Anonymous No.2552827]

Mallet

[Anonymous No.2552890]

>>2552059
>200mm
what's that in a unit of measurement that actually matters?

[Anonymous No.2552895]

>>2552890
approximately 0.000000000000000006481558578888 parsecs or 12374284998344939381471364357728205 Planck lengths.

[Anonymous No.2552905]

>>2552890
2/3rd Maderaka

[Anonymous No.2552977]

>>2552890
About twice yours

[Anonymous No.2553171]

>>2552658

It will flatten it a bit as it dries. You're better off to joint and plane it as required before use, or clamp it really well to deal with slight cupping.

[Anonymous No.2553425]

I recently got my hands on these movie theater seats that got pulled from a historical theater being renovated. In the store, what made me want to buy them is that they had one attached to a pallet in a way that could be slid around and I thought it'd be a cool idea for the 4 seats I bought, I could either put them side by side or move them around the media room at random. My question is, since pallets are sort of ratty, is there a simple stand design I could make cheaply in the same 48" x 40" size that also safely holds at least 1000 pounds? Pic related, you can also see how they were bolted to the pallet. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Anonymous No.2553767]

Do ‘magnetic saw guides’ work? I’m not really good at sawing straight by eye. Also, if I clamp a straight/true block of HDPE to each side of my cut line and like squeeze the saw between them would that help? I have an idea for a diy saw guide but I haven’t seen many on the internet

[Anonymous No.2553774]

>>2553767
no they are shit
if your saw cant saw straight it is setup wrong
too much set for the teeth, burr on one side, to much pressure etc. If that is all good, all you need is a square a pen and a day practice

[Anonymous No.2553788]

>>2553774
> a day practice
I’ve been practicing a lot for a month or two but I still get weird curves or skewed cuts some times so I wondered if a saw guide could help me find the right angle like side wheels.
Also after an inch or two the cut always seems to get a bit wider no matter which saw I use

[Anonymous No.2553806]

>>2553788
What saw do you use?

[Anonymous No.2553807]

>>2553788
After an inch or two you are probably slacking off on technique and letting the blade guide the saw in the kerf which is wider than the kerf because of the set of the teeth. The way the saw goes off tells you everything you need to know regarding if it is a technique or saw issue. Take one saw and practice with it, examine how the cuts go off and think about it, does it always go off in the same way? How can you adjust technique to deal with that? Try adjusting technique, if that does not work consider the saw's setup.

Failing that provide more information, the saw in question, the cut being done and work holding. Pictures don't hurt either, can tell a lot about a saw cut.

[Anonymous No.2553896]

I made a workbench.

[Anonymous No.2553897]

>>2552827
Lol mallet

[Anonymous No.2553941]

>>2553896
I recently installed those rockler wheels on my workbench too; holy shit are they smooth, rolls great

[Anonymous No.2553956]

>>2553941
These aren’t the Rockler ones. I got these on Amazon and they fucking suck. I might toss them and give the Rockler ones a try. Did you mount them directly to the legs or did you use the quick release plates?

[Anonymous No.2553961]

>>2553788
Try: mark the top, mark the front, mark the back. So you got three sides marked. Just barely cut the line like 2 or3 strokes so you have a kerf for the saw to work in. Come up over the top kerf that. Move around so you can see th eback. Kerf that.

Go back to the front, stay in the front kerf and you top. Get a nice keep kerf on the front and back. That will keep you perpendicular as you go through the board. Now go back to the top and cut down.

[Anonymous No.2553971]

>>2553956
Huh, I thought they looked a bit off, guess I was right. I used the quick release plates, got a couple of benches I want to move around

[Anonymous No.2553974]

>>2553971
>>2553956
Only complaint I have is the hardware that came with them was a bit short (the default ones have just screw into wood, no nuts needed) and I really didn't want to go buy new bolts so I just used a forstner to make them fit proper. Completely unrelated thing that I in no way learned on this project or anything, but did you know it is an absolute royal pain in the ass to use a forstner bit on existing holes? Nowhere for the central spike to catch.

What makes the amazon ones suck? Just bad quality or something else?

[Anonymous No.2553978]

>>2553974
The Amazon ones won’t stay locked down no matter how much I tighten them. They do just enough to barely lift the bench off the floor but since my garage is really unlevel with a lot of high and low spots the wheels keep getting stuck when I try to move the bench.

[Anonymous No.2553980]

>>2553978
>no matter how much I tighten them
You mean they try to pop up / lower the table back down? Weird. Mine are solid, I have to put in quite a bit of effort to raise them back up unless I lift the table a little bit to let the mechanism disengage, right out of the box - just screwed them on and started wheeling shit around

[Anonymous No.2553994]

>>2553980
I guess you get what you pay for. I’m going to return these shitty Amazon casters and get the Rockler ones while they’re still on sale.

[Anonymous No.2554058]

How much are you guys paying for a 2x4? 8' and 13' lengths.

I'm almost done with a project and realized I was overpaying big-time...

[Anonymous No.2554062]

>>2554058
Scandinavian SLS, planed 4 sides €7 for 9’, €10 for 12’
Minus €1 each if buying bulk

[Anonymous No.2554063]

>>2553806
Bahco hardened cross cut
Bahco hardened back saw
Name brand tenon saw from the hardware store
Japanese cross cut saw (works best for very short cross cuts but worse for everything else)

>>2553807
>>2553961
Thanks for the tips, will do. I’m mostly cross or rip cutting 2x4s but also 10x2 oak and tried some miter cuts a few times . I’m right handed, and with all saws I seem to drift to the left a bit, but if I correct the angle by twisting the saw ccw the hole gets wider

[Anonymous No.2554067]

>>2554063
Never correct by twisting the saw, back out to before where the saw went off and then slowly nibble away until you get it going where you want.

If all the saws consistently pull to the left you are most likely twisting your wrist. Which side of the cut is off often tells you at which point you are twisting, far side means twisting at the end of the stroke, near side at the start, but this can be reversed depending on your technique but most people tend to present the toe of the saw to the wood at the start of the stroke. If the curve is even all the way through it probably means that once you get enough of the saw buried you let the blade ride against the right side of the kerf.

Since it is all of your saws it is very unlikely a setup issue. Pay attention to what the saw and its cut is telling you, all your answers are there.

[Anonymous No.2554091]

>>2553896
that bench is far too nice for /diy/ what are you doing here.
I need to post one of my shitshows now
can't see it too good but here's my workbench made of some old flooring and random scavenged wood.

[Anonymous No.2554113]

>>2554091
That’s a really cool drill

[Anonymous No.2554118]

>>2554113
i fucking broke it i hate myself.
but tbf it did have a tensioning thing, made out of CAST IRON, don't know who thought that was a good idea. got some parts to repair it but didn't have the gear, just started at a steel fabrication shop so maybe i can get it fixed now.
also check out this shitty corner table i made to fit in this stupid fucking space the landlord left that couldn't possibly be used for anything.

[Anonymous No.2554165]

Frame from last fall, walnut, padauk and curly maple inlays. Padauk inlay has small pieces to cover the sides. Both woods for splines.

[Anonymous No.2554167]

>>2554165

[Anonymous No.2554169]

>>2554165
>>2554167
Fuck me that's nice. How do you get your padauk to keep its red color?

[Anonymous No.2554175]

>>2554169
Thanks, time will tell if it does, just made last fall. Just keeping it where it won't get any direct sun.

[Anonymous No.2554176]

>>2554165
question: how the fuck do you get it that nice and precise? do you use hand tools? gimme some info please.

[Anonymous No.2554178]

>>2554063
>Bahco hardened cross cut
>Bahco hardened back saw
>Name brand tenon saw from the hardware store
in short, trash.
i made my 3$ hardware store saw perform by taking out half its set, but you cant expect to make good ripcuts with their tooth geometry

[Anonymous No.2554180]

>>2554118
modern epoxy are almost as good as brazing cast iron, buy uhu 300, apply and cure in oven.
Post a pic of what broke, chances are it broke because some important parts were missing

[Anonymous No.2554187]

>>2554178
No hardware store saw is going to rip well. The tooth geometry is abysmal for it. Irwin Fast Jack makes a really good, cheap, rough crosscut saw though.

[Anonymous No.2554196]

>>2547519
For a butcher block countertop should both top and bottom receive the same number of oil polyurethane coats to prevent warping?
My thinking is that each coat creates a humidity barrier and if one side has more coats then that side will react slower to changes in humidity, possibly warping.
It's mid priced hevea/rubberwood in a slightly humid part of the Appalachia mountain region.
Both top and bottom already have 2 coats but I think I want to add 1 or 2 more to the top to make it extra resilient and wonder if I can skip doing the bottom.

[Anonymous No.2554201]

>>2554176
Any question in particular?
I cut grooves for the inlay on the table saw with a flat grind rip blade. The inlay I cut thin strips on the table saw, slightly oversized using a caliper, then plane them down to perfect fit (hard to plane something so thin but just use a bench dog sticking up 1/16th as a stop.) Splines are mostly the same, I have a small sled to move the corner across the blade next to the rip fence. its literally a couple pieces of 2x4 cut at 45 deg glued to a piece of MDF as the base.

For the miters I finish them on a 45deg shooting board I made to get a perfect fit / perfect match between the opposing sides.

process for this would be to cut the four pieces, put in maple inlay, assemble the frame, cut groves and put in the padauk inlay (do two sides first then the other two). All my inlay is proud and I flush it down to the surface with a scrub plane then smoother plane once it gets close. (best to be careful with the inlay and try to match the direction of grain with the piece it is going in - to not get tearout when planing.)

[Anonymous No.2554207]

>>2554201
>Any question in particular?
no you answered everything i wanted to ask, thanks!

[Anonymous No.2554230]

>>2554178
>>2554187
Makes sense, but I’ll try the tips on here first before I buy a better one I guess. Looked a while ago if there were any good (preferably resharpenable) rip saws under €70 but everything that I can find that’s labelled as a rip saw starts at €120

[Anonymous No.2554234]

>>2554230
buy used

[Anonymous No.2554237]

>>2554230
eBay a used over from jolly olde England. They seem to have a huge supply of nice old tools.

[Anonymous No.2554254]

>>2554230
What the other anon said (if possible, I don't know what the fuck happened in this country but it's as if every old hand saw got melted down and the few that remain cost more than new ones). Or you can wait a few weeks and get a Thomas Flinn.

[Anonymous No.2554255]

For all my fellow poorfags who havent bought a planer because of the cost, now is your chance
Im pretty excited

https://slickdeals.net/f/16416739-149-50-15-shipping-ryobi-12-1-2-thickness-planer-at-direct-tools-outlet-164-50

[Anonymous No.2554256]

>>2554254
large panel saws were never popular in continental europe, 12-13 inch is the upper end you will find here second hand.
on the other hand you can find pic for like 5€

[Anonymous No.2554259]

>>2554256
You can but they're all rusted to shit and filed for crosscuts. I own several.

[Anonymous No.2554262]

do you actually rip long boards with a handsaw or do you just split them with a wedge? I can't imagine sawing a 12 foot board but splitting it makes me nervous.

[Anonymous No.2554266]

>>2554262
I rip. It's not hard work it just takes a while.

[Anonymous No.2554267]

>>2554259
>filed for crosscuts
its like 3 strokes to re file them rip. and a new blade from wilpu or ulmia is in the region of 10-20€
I will soon order some bandsteel and build a large coarse one for rough work
>>2554262
just this weekend i ripped like 20 board feet in 2 inch pine, 1/2 inch per stroke

[Anonymous No.2554274]

>>2554267
I didn't mean these were insurmountable problems just that it makes them distinctly less worth it. When I have the time I'm probably turning one into a Roubo-style frame saw.

[Anonymous No.2554354]

Which joinery method for cabinets will not be laughed at by wood elves?
Aside from cost is there a reason not to buy 2" thick, wide slabs then bandsaw it into book matched ~13/16" slabs for the cabinet doors? I really don't like veneers and want solid hardwood cabs.

[Anonymous No.2554355]

>>2554267
I can probably manage 1" per stroke in pine with my panel saw. Frame saws are great but slow in hardwood, I only pull mine out when I need the fine kerf.
>>2554274
The Roubo style does not really offer much advantage over a frame saw, mostly meme. I built one years ago, only real improvement is that you do not need to have all of the saws weight to one side which is hardly an issue once you get used to it. As a two man saw and like 4' long they would make sense but in sizes suitable for one man it is essentially a wash. I made a 3' years ago, ended up selling it since panel and 27" frame saw were easier and less work unless I had a second person. Also a pain since you either had to be resawing shorter boards that can be cut standing on end/in the vice or stand on the bench to cut anything longer due to the saws length. I would skip making one.

[Anonymous No.2554358]

>>2554355
>1" per stroke in pine with my panel saw
yea but not in 2" thick boards
maybe with a 2tpi blade

[Anonymous No.2554360]

>>2554165
I'm with the other anons, this looks fucking nice

[Anonymous No.2554371]

>>2554354
Veneer is traditional here due to stability and only became looked down on because veneer became cheap to produce, it was a luxury item up until about 100 years ago. Just because they are veneered does not mean they are not solid, veneer allows you to use a very stable core wood and use fancy grain (which is not stable) for show. 3/4" core of a good stable wood, ~1/16 veneer both sides makes for a very stable door.

If you must avoid the veneer take the time to find a slab with very straight grain and near perfect vertical grain. The grain on each half of a book match is mirrored so they will warp in opposite directions which doubles the perceptible warping. One warps inward and the other warps outward and the difference is twice of what it would be with a single door so what normally would not be noticed is now noticed. This can be a major issue with tightly fit doors. I also would give that slab a good year to cure unless it was air dried or already old.
>>2554358
Yes in 2 inch, I can read and saw you said 2". You can have a much more aggressive rake angle on a panel saw since you can really bear down on them. With softwoods you can get away with a negative rake angle on a panel saw as long as you do not need to cut through knots or at least slow down for the knots but edge retention is lost with the negative rake angle and those knots do take a toll no matter how slow you go.

[Anonymous No.2554438]

>>2554254
Thanks a lot! For some reason Dieter Schmidt articles don’t show up on Google . I’ve been looking on second hand sites but it’s all cross cut or missing teeth or over €100

[Anonymous No.2554731]

>>2550221
Buy floor filler of the right colour, forget about sawdust and glue, that's for small fixes. use a bondo type applicator, fill entire surface, scrape off, sand, dye/stain, finish.

[Anonymous No.2554732]

>>2551823
what i've done is apply a mix of tung oil, paint thinner, varnish in about equal parts and let soak in, wipe off. Do this a few times, finish with wax. the wood will darken and you will get some protection from spills only.

[Anonymous No.2554746]

Im trying to do some engraving (never did before) on the cnc. It works OK but the ‘bottom’ of the letters always has loose fibers that I can’t really get out, making it look bad quality. I’m using a new sharp 60 deg engraving bit, 0.2mm / 1 thou per pass. Any ideas how to get it more clean?

[Anonymous No.2554788]

>>2554746

Do a finish pass removing only the tiniest bit of material.

Change the bit. I have a $60 super wonderful every youtuber recommends it v bit from cadence manufacturing and it leaves fuzz on fucking everything. Very frustrating. The finish is good once removed and it avoid chipout fairly well so it's worth it but I am pretty underwhelmed personally given my $20 whiteside v bit was almost as good.

Try a different pathing strategy, climb vs conventional. Depending on the type of wood and grain direction this can and does play a part in the finished product.

But a finishing path is by far your best bet for immediate results. You can crank the speed way the fuck up for it if you want.

[Anonymous No.2554797]

I heard you like book matching

[Anonymous No.2554818]

>>2554797
Jesus, that's tacky. I want to see the rest of the place.

[Anonymous No.2554889]

>>2554788
Thanks I’ll try this. Going to need a different program for that I guess (or change the g code manually). Currently I don’t have enough engraving plans to justify getting a more expensive v bit but I’ll test with the finishing pass to see if I can get it right.

[Anonymous No.2554891]

>>2554797
I hate to reference redit, but don't they have a sub called "awful taste but excellent execution" or some shit like that.

[Anonymous No.2554892]

>>2554797
looks like a murphy bed with wooden slats

[Anonymous No.2554987]

>>2554889

Why use another program? I'm not sure what you're using, but just program another "job" but have it start at the depth the first finished and cut only 0.001 or something similarly small.

Some woods fray worse than others as well. Just keep that in mind.

You can pirate Aspire 10.5 off Rutracker and its fantastic.

[Anonymous No.2554993]

>>2554797
this is the nicholas cage of doors.

[Anonymous No.2555009]

>>2554262
You do not split. I have split poplar logs into blanks for carving, but for lumber take you piece to a shop and have it done on a resawing bandsaw, have both sides planed flat. I have done this to get a book matched top for a guitar project.

[dfhgsfgh No.2555037]

how to drill a fastener without changing bits. Drill with larger bit and dent the piece below. Then take top piece off, and drill same sized hole 1/8" over to relieve the wood. then screw faster into the dent.

how to sand two grits at once. Just hold two pieces of sandpaper layered at once, and leave about 1/2 exposed at the heel of your hand.

[Anonymous No.2555059]

>>2554993
Honestly, can't argue with that. Good call.
>>2554891
I wouldn't know

[Anonymous No.2555073]

>>2555037
> how to sand two grits at once. Just hold two pieces of sandpaper layered at once, and leave about 1/2 exposed at the heel of your hand.
Can you explain this? Wouldn’t the rougher grit make it rough again at every pass?

[Anonymous No.2555253]

Using rough cut lumber for garden beds. Finishing with tung oil. The rough surface is taking in lots of the oil-I’m guessing it is a lot more surface area.

Is there an advantage to planing or sanding down the surfaces in terms of outdoor durability? I feel that the current surface would provide better protection than if I sand it down. But that is just a guess.

Part two. Without having a jointer or planar or table saw how can I get the endows somewhat square? I have a saw with one of those kreg “ripping” attachments. But I can’t quite visualize how I would create a guide. If I use the edge of the planks that will just create matching unevenness on other side. I started using a hand plane on one edge.

[Anonymous No.2555275]

Do I have to use PT wood for outdoors? Would Teak Oil be enough for protection?
I've seen people charring wood, then applying oil in order to preserve it, any thoughts on that?

I've also noticed some ancient wood pillars having something like in the pic, would this be a purely aesthetic thing or does setting the butt in concrete help improve it's life?

[Anonymous No.2555300]

Which woodworking projects do you use every day?

[Anonymous No.2555304]

>>2555253
>Is there an advantage to planing or sanding down the surfaces in terms of outdoor durability? I feel that the current surface would provide better protection than if I sand it down. But that is just a guess.
more surface area to absorb oil also means more surface area to absorb moisture and rot faster. Same reason why knight's armor was mirror-polished.

[Anonymous No.2555329]

>>2555253
Planed would be more durably I’d say, less surface area is less moisture ingress and more thermally stable as well

>>2555275
> Do I have to use PT wood for outdoors? Would Teak Oil be enough for protection?
There are naturally rot resistant woods (like teak or Doug fir) that will discolour but not really rot. Oil or stain could help limit/steer the color change.

> setting the butt in concrete help improve it's life?
It’s a two edged sword. The concrete protects against water from the floor here, but concrete is very alkaline and will hurt most woods if in direct contact. Also if the wood has to resist forces, the stress concentrations around the edge of the concrete will usually damage it over time.

>>2555300
From the top of my mind: desk (which is also my worst project), laptop stand, two benches, shelves, shoe cabinet and wooden storage boxes. In summer also garden benches and tables etc.
Also workbench and some wooden tools of course but that’s for making more stuff

[Anonymous No.2555345]

>>2555304
> mirror-polished armor

it was to reflect laser attacks, obvi.

[Anonymous No.2555412]

How do you sell stuff you make? I need to make stuff to get better but I don't need and can't store millions of cabinets and drawers. Craigslist?

[Anonymous No.2555423]

>>2555412
There’s the ‘build network’ way: I only sell stuff occasionally, but when I started I gave away a lot off the stuff I made (toys, cutting boards, boxes, benches, signs) and now people just call me and ask if I can make something similar for them.

But the fast way nowadays is go on Instagram, make a brand page, link an etsy shop, and follow and like lots of posts from big related accounts (like ones that post interior pics, lifestyle, wood shops, design studios, kids toys whatever). They will often follow you back, and the algorithm will promote your posts to people it thinks may be interested.

[Anonymous No.2555478]

>>2550517
Get the 3 pack of cheap ass thin diamond stones in that other Kruger video for $20. Add a cheap strop with green compound as a final step.

[Anonymous No.2555480]

>>2551276
Look up vinegar for aging wood. People do this with cedar in particular so look up vinegar to age cedar wood.

[Anonymous No.2555636]

>how to make portable handtool workbench
>requires powertools, cannot be self compiled
Cringe.

This on the other hand is based
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPRkTWFBfQs

[Anonymous No.2555641]

>>2549459
Just use the plans for a drawer but without the handle.
Dumb frogposter.....

[Anonymous No.2555752]

>>2555304
>>2555329
Fuck ok. That’s a lot more work.

[Anonymous No.2555884]

>>2554254
you can find them in carboot sales but boomers collect them or they do stupid shit like take the brass spine off of the brass backs ones by the hundreds and make little planes out of them.

[Anonymous No.2555887]

>>2554354
frame and panel are good, and you don't need to have the panels as large. and what the other guy said. white oak with shop-sawn veneer is perfectly reasonable. it's the sliced veneer that is cheap. you can even do marquetry veneer if you have the equipment. look up wpatrickedwards. he does traditional cabinetry specializing in french 18th century veneers and marquetry and restoration.
but for me, it's carved walnut frame and panels in the 1500s italian style.

[Anonymous No.2556019]

>>2555636
the trick is not not start with 2x4 but with 4x10 slabs or other fitting lumber
one jointed edge vs 20

[Anonymous No.2556028]

>>2551823
>>2551845
>not roughing up the surface so wood doesn't slide around as easily

[Anonymous No.2556035]

>>2552181
what i dislike about most chisels is that the taper on the thickness is opposite of the traditional plane irons. thinner near the edge.
45 is normal and some of the older ones are even steeper. depends on what you work on.
you can laminate the sole with metal if you want low angle bevel up, but it's still not ideal because of the wedging action almost parallel to the grain of the body.

[Anonymous No.2556101]

>>2555480
You can use a chemical treatment like vinigar or dichromate, but instead use a water soluable wood dye and spray it on. If you leave it alone it will quickly change anyway, so why bother?

[Anonymous No.2556143]

>>2555253
Do not use Teak Oil. There are very good and safe exterior finishes for decks you can use, they do not leach into the soil, I get mine at HD.
It is better to just add portland cement to the soil removed, mix in a wheel barrow and return to the hole, tamp around the post. This is a very old fencing trick used on farms, I had done it this way for 40+ years. Concrete will trap moisture against the post leading to rot, portland cement will allow water to pass through.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/behr-premium-premium-transparent-penetrating-oil-wood-finish-cedar-naturaltone-no-4001-3-79l/1001001148

[Anonymous No.2556192]

Maybe a stupid question, ive got a bunch of wooden planes already but i really want a metal one since my place where i do my woodworking is in my somewhat damp basement. The wooden planes warp a bit depending on the moisture and a metal plane would not be affected (other than rust of course). What type of plane should i get? A jointer plane maybe so i get most of the precision, No.7 or No.6? Or is a No.5 good enough when i want to plane a board flat every once in a while. A no.4 would make little sense i guess because there the warping of the wooden ones wouldnt make that much of a difference, or am i wrong there?

[Anonymous No.2556200]

>>2556192
Well it depends entirely on what wooden planes you have and want to use and what you're building. A jointer is for making things flat faster. You can make things flat with a smoother if you want, it just takes a while. I'm partial to the low angle jack with a couple of blades and a scrub but then I'm not a production outfit.

[Anonymous No.2556201]

>>2556192
Maybe this will give you some insight.
if i were to rate my metal ones it be 7>4>5>4 1/2
The No 7 is simply a joy to work with. It has the weight to make the wide blade usable. The long sole section in front of the blade makes it kinda feel like a wooden one (unlike the no4)
You can clamp it in the vise sole side up and use it that way for smaller pieces, kinda like a power jointer. Also can gently flatten wooden planes that way.
I use this on the shooting board for wide endgrain cuts too.
This is the one i will never sell

The no4 is nice general purpose, used it a lot, still do for rough shop stuff and chamfers, etc
but i kinda transitioned to a wooden plane combo of narrow scrub, short fore and smoother. 3 setup planes are just more efficient, they glide way nicer an weight less than half.

The 5 and 4 1/2 see so little use they will go on ebay the next couple weeks

[Anonymous No.2556202]

>>2556028
Roughing it up decreases friction and makes wood slide easier, think about it for half a second, less surface area in contact with the work piece, less friction.

[Anonymous No.2556208]

>>2556201
What is even the purported point of the 4½?

[Anonymous No.2556212]

>>2556208
i dont know, it was my first buy because it was cheap, in good condition and i fell for the online shills to only buy cast iron planes.

I see no point in a general purpose 45° double iron plane that is 1/2 inch wider than my wooden one, but wears me out at 3x the rate if i dont wax the sole every two minutes, the weight on this is no joke. Hence it gets never used

[Anonymous No.2556226]

>>2556208
Marketing mostly. ~2" width became the standard on smooths for good reason. Jointers had a wider blade since they were traditionally used to flatten the sole of the other wooden planes and cabinet shops often only used the jointer for that one task, leave it mounted upside down somewhere so they could just push their plane over it.

Use of the jointer for surfacing came into practice with Stanley, smoother always did that job before then, which is a lot of work thanks to that extra weight and width.
>>2556212
The 4 1/2 with its extra width will make it a good stand in for the traditional short European style jack which is very good for rough surfacing. The Stanley longer jack plane is almost useless, just a short joiner.

The best I have found for dealing with the increased friction of steel planes is to take 80 grit to the sole and scratch it up good, follow that with 800 or 1000 to take the sharpness off but leave the grooves. 80 grit may not be enough for larger planes though, never tried it on anything but block planes and it makes them slide about like they are wooden planes. I had gone to all wood for the bench planes by the time I discovered this trick and my only steel bench plane now is a 2c which is block plane size and corrugated so no need.

[Anonymous No.2556233]

>>2556200
I do have the basic set of wooden planes, so a few smoother planes, not 100% sure how theyre exactly translate to english, one has a wider and the other a narrower mouth, a scrub plane and a jointer, basicly want to build simple furniture for my medieval hobby but also some regular furniture.
>>2556201
Hmm, the No 7 really does sound like the best option in combination with my wooden planes. Still want to use the wooden planes as much as possible and especially since you can flatten the wooden planes with the No7 it does provide some real advantage rather than just replacing a wooden plane. Now i just need to find a good one, metal planes arent that common here in Germany so i guess i have to stick to new ones.

[Anonymous No.2556237]

>>2556233
The Kunz premium line are pretty nice for a steel plane if you don't mind the money. They standard line for steel planes is eh but will do the job.

In what way are your wooden planes warping? Is the wedge getting jammed? Bench planes generally do not noticeably warp due to their dimensions, especially the shorter ones, but expansion and contraction can jam the wedge.

If it is just a wedge issue then just store them with wedge and iron removed, or if they are the old style with the wedge notched into the sides of the throat you can go to the modern style which uses a pivoting bearing surface that does not require a full width wedge.

My home has huge swings in humidity and in the fall and spring everything feels wet, never had a plane warp yet.

[Anonymous No.2556239]

>>2556233
You should see how fucked the used market is for metal planes here. Yeah bro I'll give you 200€ for this old Stanley. At least this one isn't also rusted to shit. Last I looked someone was trying to fence a Stanley no. 4 that was more rust than iron at that point as having "patina" and for the low low price just north of 100€.

[Anonymous No.2556240]

>>2556233
>in Germany
same. The No7 in question was bought from UK ebay, its a 1920s made in USA and was listed bought for 108 pound. I bought because no rust and almost flawless japanning.
Uk ebay has a way bigger selection in second hand woodworking tools than germany, most cabinet makers here simply burn their old shit.
If you buy from Uk, thanks to brexit you will have to pay horrendous shipping cost and ontop a steep import tax. in the end the plane was ~130€ thanks to favorable exchange course. a new from Dick no7 with good steel and no flaws is 200€ They come likely from the same factory as Juuma and Woodriver.
>one has a wider and the other a narrower mouth
the wider mouth is likely a doppel hobel with 45° bedding angle. the true smoother is 49°

[Anonymous No.2556246]

>>2556237
The wedge is not the issue, the sole is just getting enough out of flat that i cant get good shavings on some of them. My jointer is still holding up but im not sure how long that will last. Maybe it just takes a while until they have settled enough so the variations in humidity wont affect them as much anymore. No idea where they were stored before i got them. My bench has also warped quite a bit since i got it which is quite annoying and i have to flatten it too.
But that tip with storing it without the iron might be usefull, the one that causes the most issues has a traditional wedge with the notch on the side. That one is a jack plane though so it might not be that much of an issue.
The Kunz Premium is a bit out of my budget for now. Ive found one by Dictum that seems good and for around 200-220€ depending on the iron, that seems reasonable.

[Anonymous No.2556248]

>>2556246
I have no experience with Dictum planes but assuming you have water stones, get the one labled "Japanese Blade." Hitachi Aogami is an absolutely excellent blade steel, and a little bit stainless for good measure. SK4, on the other hand, is nothing to write home about.

[Anonymous No.2556253]

>>2556246
Have you noticed where/how on the soles they are going out of flat? Have you applied any oil/fat/wax to the soles? Do you reapply it after heavy use/flattening? If not, see if it helps, could just be that the sole has a spot or two that absorbs moisture a little more readily than the rest so expands/coontracts more quickly than the rest of the sole. I find a solid fat like lard to work best on wooden planes, easy to apply, does not stain and no wait for drying so easy too throw a bit more on after any heavy use or flattening.

[Anonymous No.2556255]

>>2556253
Not him but lard sounds like a really good idea that will quickly turn into a really bad idea. How do you prevent it from stinking up the place after a few hot summer days?

[Anonymous No.2556258]

>>2556240
Thats my current set, i have a few more but these are the ones i use most. The middle on in the bottom is the one with the issues, yes its a Doppelhobel, just not sure what the equivalent english term would be, jack plane i guess
>>2556248
Are water stones neccesary? Im still a bit unsure what to use for sharpening, so far i use a diamond plate, that seems to work. I wouldve gotten the japanese blade anyways, read elsewhere that the SK4 wasnt that great.

[Anonymous No.2556261]

>>2556255
Unless it is very cheap poorly refined it will be fine, it is pure fat and will not go rancid in that way, its taste and smell will change as it oxidizes but it will not rot like meat will and you will not be eating it anyways. Back in the 80s grocery stores did not even keep lard in the refrigerated section, it was on the shelf with the baking supplies.
>>2556258
Diamond will be fine for any blade. Some synthetic stones are terrible for the harder steels on laminated blades or A2 blades.

[Anonymous No.2556265]

>>2556258
Diamond will also work. It just has to be something that aggressive because the steel is an absolute bitch to sharpen. A shitty water stone won't really touch it either. In my experience, diamond plates wear out too quickly to be worth it if you're not being paid by the knife you sharpen. They're fast as hell at first but quickly lose their speed and costs almost as much as good water stones up front.
SK4 is commonly used in utility knife blades. It works but the edge retention is not great. It will obviously be more durable in a thicker blade with a shallower angle.

>>2556261
The stuff on offer in grocery stores here smells right out of the box. Not rancid just clearly not clean. I'd have to refine it like I do when rendering tallow for soap to make it usable then so not really worth it in my case I guess.

[Anonymous No.2556269]

>>2556265
Plenty of other fats you can use, as well as oils and waxes. Coconut oil would probably work just as good but will go liquid on a hot day so not quite as easy to apply. Or next time you render for soap making make a little extra for your planes, tallow works as well as lard, lard is just cheaper here so that is what I use.

[Anonymous No.2556270]

>>2556269
Yeah I have some options. I was just hoping you'd tell me that beech is antimicrobial enough to kill anything nesting in the lard, because I like lard. Like you say: it's cheap. Although in fairness I get the cow fat for free.

[Anonymous No.2556273]

>>2556270
Ultimately I doubt it would be much of an issue unless there are bits of meat in it, leave some out see what happens, bet it won't get much smellier, just change slightly. My great grandfather just used the fat left in the pan from cooking so lots of bacon fat with bits of food, never had a problem. He also used that on his hands in the winter. His shop always had a faint bacon smell mixed in with the wood smells.

[Anonymous No.2556278]

>>2556273
Delicious as that sounds, my shop is also my home gym so I'll just use some odorless.

[Anonymous No.2556284]

>>2556258
>The middle on in the bottom is the one with the issues
Is that the one you use for the rough work/thicknessing as it traditionally would be used? If so perhaps it is just wear that is your issue? Rough work wears soles quickly. This will often not be noticed until the next use since the sole wears to the shape it is planing the wood into, sort of self compensates as you work and then you notice on the next use. If this is the case than that maybe the plane you want to replace with steel, not the jointer.

But you can reduce sole wear issues with your technique, mainly learning to thick about the contours of the piece you are working to even out the wear of the sole. This is part of the reason jointers were traditionally wider, each pass you would shift the plane over a bit to even out the wear and not wear a groove into the sole. Also evens out wear on the blade so when you switch from jointing narrow stock to wide you don't have to sharpen because one side of the blade is dulled.
>>2556278
Here in the US the woodworking shops all tend to carry little tins of highly refined tallow, expensive but those tins last a long time. Personally I just use what ever I use on my hands for all my wooden tools. Skin on my hands no longer takes well to being covered in saw dust so I always have a tin/bottle of something for them in the shop and that is what the tools get as well.

[Anonymous No.2556296]

>>2556284
I just realized I still have some tallow left. This is refined and whipped as it cooled. I use it as a moisturizer. Very effective.

[Anonymous No.2556298]

>>2556296
Your planes will love it. Only the first application takes much, after that you just need a tiny bit after flattening and any heavy use. Even that first use will not use that much but rub it in there good, work it into the pores of the wood.

[Anonymous No.2556346]

>>2556284
>Is that the one you use for the rough
That would be top right. Anon has old ece with wangenwiederlager, deformation stems likely from not releasing the wedge for some weeks

[Anonymous No.2556348]

>>2556202
you really think a wood that is roughened with an 80 grid slides around more than a wood lapped with 800 grit and burnished?

[Anonymous No.2556372]

>>2556346
>deformation stems likely from not releasing the wedge for some weeks
That should not matter unless the wedge is driven in way too hard, there just is not enough force there and even then not really an issue in a plane of this size and shape. Some of my lesser used planes have gone a year or more without having their wedge released, my ECE toothing plane does that and its very high angle would make it more susceptible to this sort of issue.
>>2556348
It will. Very noticeable with heavy/large hunks of wood after you get out the plane and refresh a cut up work bench top. Most of the time you will not notice a difference and it will never have enough grip to be of much use. Why do you think reducing surface area would increase friction? Sure if the wood you are working on is also treated with 80 grit that will give some grip but not a great deal.

[Anonymous No.2556385]

>>2556346
just realized, you thought I meant really rough work, not scrub plane work, rough as in jack plane work, removing saw marks or scrub plane makes before going at it with the smooth plane. A rough surface such as left by a scrub plane or the saw wears a wooden sole faster than the smooth surface left by a jack so smooth planes generally can go long periods without needing its sole flattened and jack planes need it fairly regularly.

[Anonymous No.2556398]

>>2556372
nope. just tried it. smooth wood on 80 grit surface vs 300 grit. even more noticeable with a heavily rasped surface compared to a burnished surface.
the practice of roughening up workbench, usually with a toothing plane, is well known to improve grip. there is also pressure per square inch to consider. you're effectively exerting more pressure onto the surface because there is less effective surface, especially as a lot of wood working operations involve pushing the wood forward (against a stop) and down.

[Anonymous No.2556409]

>>2556385
Its a doppelhobel, basically a no4 with wide mouth. Wooden ones meant for rough work dont have a chipbreaker

[Anonymous No.2556441]

>>2553896
very nice. can you give me measurements i'm curious what size of wood you use for the legs and beams

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2556454]

For the anon who was interested in my trailer rebuild, I have the pieces to extend the frame cut and drilled, but not welded together yet because it's raining and I'd have to move an engine and trans out of the garage to get the welder free. These will be bolted to the current frame and welded onto long pieces for the new sides of the trailer.

[Anonymous No.2556483]

>>2556398
Your reasoning is flawed, pressure per square inch is not what is causing that. Go burnish it to mimic having a slab dragged across it a few times and consider the result. Either way, it will not increase grip enough to be useful.
>>2556409
I explained what I was referring to as rough work and that is chip breaker work unless you want to have to remove tear out with your smooth plane which would kind of defeat the purpose, remove the saw marks just to replace them with tear out just as deep?

[Anonymous No.2556484]

>>2556441
The legs are about 34” long without the feet. The top is about 60”x24”.

I pretty much just ripped off the design in this video

https://youtu.be/ZaItwWhHh5g

except I painted the top instead of using formica and I made the base out of cheap construction lumber.

[Anonymous No.2556531]

>>2556483
okay, i burnished it. still more grip on the rasped surface. i press the scrap wood on the surface and try to twist. the burnished rasped surface has more resistance.

[Anonymous No.2556651]

>pick up whittling
>use thumb to stabilise and guide the back of the knife while whittling
>thumb is now covered in several layers of blisters
did I get memed?

[Anonymous No.2556703]

>>2556483
>and that is chip breaker work
you dont understand that your tradition and techniques differs from the continental europe.
And after all this is where those tools evolved from.
Tear out cleaning saw marks doesnt happen, it is an interupted cut, same for cleaning out scrup plane marks. In the process of "zwerchen" the scrup is used 90° angled to the grain. flattening that again is interrupted too.
Tear out going with the grain is very very unlikely to happen, see pic. a shaving this thick would jam my smoother, ignore the hole in the blade its a modern one.
Tear out prone pieces with wild grain, were either sawn for vernier or burned! low grade softwoods with lots of branches were for poor customers, either deal with it or slather in thick paint.
Cabinet makers were stingy with their lumber selection,
>but labor was cheap
not really,
cont.

[Anonymous No.2556767]

>>2556703
>you dont understand that your tradition and techniques differs from the continental europe.
What is my tradition? What do I know about other traditions? Please tell me, you seem to know more about me than I do.
>interrupted cut
Unless those saw marks or scrub plane mark are perfectly regular you are going to have some uninterrupted cutting as well, and they are never perfect.
>Tear out going with the grain is very very unlikely to happen
Depends on the wood, plenty of tear out prone woods out there even when they are well cut high quality hardwoods with nice clear grain. Anytime the grain is not perfectly straight there is a risk for tear out since it means you can not plane off the grain for the entire cut and many woods are very particular about this which is why chip breakers became standard despite the expense.

Your 6" cut is not impressive and I suspect you know why and know that I could produce 6" cuts with loads of tearout from that same board and with your plane setup as you set it up. That is not a particularly thick shaving, far finer than I would take in oak when removing saw/scrub marks
>Cabinet makers were stingy with their lumber selection
Who is talking about cabinet makers? What do they have to do with anything? You are just admitting to my previous point is a sideways fashion.
>not really,
If you are going to argue both sides just skip posting and leave me out of it all together.

[Anonymous No.2556789]

I didn't know where to ask about wooden structures, so I do it here.

If you want to build a shed/garage or even a house in the US, do you really just go buy a bunch of "two by fours" and screw them together on your backyard? You don't do any calculations or get a soil surveyor, just pour a one foot thick concrete slab on the dirt, put some random scrap metal inside and call it a day, right? I thought you have a building code there, but after watching YouTube videos and time-lapses with house construction in the US it really feels like workers have no strict order and do whatever they feel and what their fathers told them about their experience 30 years ago.

Yep, that's what I would like to know. I myself am a civil and structural engineer from Germany and I write thick papers each about 100 pages A4 for small new houses, where I describe and calculate every single piece of the house including type of the nails if it's wooden. That's why I'm wondering.

[Anonymous No.2556826]

>>2556789
Building codes vary from city to city, state to state. In most jurisdictions you don’t need any permits to build a structure on your own property if it’s smaller than a certain size. For example, you can build s shed without getting the city involved but you can’t build an extra room on your house without the proper permits and inspections.

[Anonymous No.2556833]

>>2556826
I didn't ask about the permits though.

[Anonymous No.2556836]

To the anon that told me to grind, not strop the burr off my Bahco butter chisels, thank you, that helped. It's gone from infuriating to bearable. I will probably still replace 2 of them with something significantly harder and better profiled in the future but it's not that pressing anymore.

[Anonymous No.2556840]

>>2556833
If it’s a house then they’re following a template designed by a team if engineers and architects. Is it’s just Bubba building a shed in his backyard then he just goes to home depot and gets the materials he needs based on common sense. It’s not that hard to build a shed. Americans aren’t as autistic as germans.

[Anonymous No.2556857]

>>2556840
I got it about shed. Those are not living spaces, so it seems my problems are mostly with real houses.

For example if you search in YouTube "time-lapse house build" the first result is this one with 11 Mio views https://youtu.be/-KDNFBgHdBc
It literally hurts watching it as an engineer, I won't believe they had any engineering work done and had any papers, because if they were, then I have a lot more questions to the authorities and those engineers. They literally slapped a huge house at a hill slide without any soil work on a 10 inch foundation with two randomly placed steel rods inside. Like holy shit bro, my houses in the middle of a straight wheat field with proper sand soil will have two times amount of concrete, properly interconnected steel cage and a concrete slab. And it's a standard.

I can give you pretty much every video from that search and it will be painful to watch. How is this even possible? Is it just a bad example and all other houses in the US are built properly?

[Anonymous No.2556868]

>>2556857
You’re in the wrong thread, buddy.

[Anonymous No.2557007]

woodbros. the pains of the third world have stabbed me again.
I have some wood I was going to use for making a wardrobe, but it's that laminated shit that comes off like a book. I was told it was good wood.
I'm gonna have to go to the store to buy actual wood

[Anonymous No.2557012]

>>2557007
>it's that laminated shit that comes off like a book
Wat. Plywood is famously extremely stable.

[Anonymous No.2557018]

>>2557012
not when it's been outside for about 35 years.
I scraped a rotten layer, and another came off. I scraped that one and the next was rotten. I scraped it and the next one was shidded
I got tired and stored it in the shed again.

[Anonymous No.2557078]

>>2557018
I don't know what you expected. Even naturally rot resistant wood is going to be rotten after 35 years outside unprotected.

[Anonymous No.2557153]

>>2556836
>grind
I assume you mean stone, grinder would not be good for this.

Working on raising a good burr before removing it will help more as well, but this can be tricky with some stone/steel combinations and the burr never comes off in a nice clean fine wire, it just gets finer and finer until it is gone. Main thing is to make sure you get a good burr that is completely curled over the back of the blade before you go to remove it.

You can also try a secondary bevel if you use a honing guide, tends to work better for removing the burr with a guide, especially on softer steels. After you raise the burr increase the angle by 5 degrees, stop the second that burr comes off. This has the downside of using up your chisel slightly faster since next time you go to sharpen you have to remove that secondary bevel, not a huge deal as long as you get good at raising the burr and stopping right when it comes free.

I would not replace any of them, take the time to figure out what jobs these chisels do well and which they do not. When you buy chisels buy ones that are made for those jobs which you Bahco fail at, compliment the Bahco with those new chisels instead of replace them.

[Anonymous No.2557204]

>>2556868
It's a troll post anyways.

[Anonymous No.2557213]

https://youtu.be/hBKMqpJpuxQ?t=603
can I really just use a fly cutter to square up small amounts of wood instead of having to buy a jointer?

[Anonymous No.2557224]

>>2557213
Sure, will suck if you need to do anything other than small parts though.

[Anonymous No.2557415]

>>2557153
> I assume you mean stone, grinder would not be good for this.
Grinding can be done on a stone. You don’t “stone” a chisel that just sounds weird

> When you buy chisels buy ones that are made for those jobs which you Bahco fail at
Not him but his problem with bahco chisels is probably that they go dull about 1.5 to 2x as fast as the budget narex ones

[Anonymous No.2557426]

>>2557153
More or less what >>2557415 said. I know how to make things sharp, thank you.
The suspected problem here is that whatever off-brand Chinese butter these chisels are made out of work hardens significantly at the cutting edge when you fatigue the burr off with a strop causing it to break and roll almost immediately on use, so instead grinding down the back burr as much as is reasonable only once on the last stone in the progression will produce a less sharp but far more reliable edge, which it does. If you raise burrs so large you see them come off as wires then you're almost certainly wasting both time and steel.
I normally like Bahco tools but these chisels ain't it. Terrible materials, terrible QC. The 1" one, unfortunately the one I use the most, has an inclusion that extends from the cutting edge and 3-4mm straight in. At least they don't roll after 2 or 3 cuts now. Had I known better back when I bought them I'd have gotten some MHGs.

[Anonymous No.2557434]

>>2557415
Stone as a verb referring to sharpening is fairly common, never come across anyone use grind in this way for obvious reasons.

stone v.
4. To rub or polish with a stone; to sharpen on a whetstone; in Leather Manuf. to scour and smooth with a stock-stone.

I could also provide many examples from the usual wood working literature, they use stone or hone to refer to hand work on stones and grind for using a grinder, would be ambiguous to do otherwise.
>>2557426
It only takes a few passes on a mediumish stone to raise that burr, you don't need some massive burr, just needs to be well formed. We went over all this in the last thread where I demonstrated my scrapper blade cutting beech. That anon learned to sharpen better and now his chisels are usable and you are still trying to be right.

[Anonymous No.2557438]

>>2557434
I said they've become bearable. They're still made of shit, poorly, and nothing is going to change that. Just because ancient Egyptians made copper tools work doesn't mean that I want to suffer the same pain and I'm mad that Bahco sold me junk at non-junk prices.

[Anonymous No.2557442]

>>2557438
I only said they were usable which being bearable would imply, would it not? I never said they were great chisels, just that they could be improved, and they were.

[Anonymous No.2557450]

>>2557438
> Bahco sold me junk at non-junk prices.
They ‘sold you’ a $10 chisel that outperforms a $5 chisel by a huge margin but isn’t as good as a $20 one. The Bahco chisel is perfectly fine in terms of price quality for eg a framer that just needs to remove a square piece from a 2x4 occasionally. That’s why they sell them at hardware stores and not at wood working / fine tools suppliers. If you would have gone to a fine tools store (or on the internet) they’d have told you the bahco is fine for occasional rough work but not for eg precision mortises in oak. Instead you came up with unreasonable expectations for an $10 chisel and now blame bahco

[Anonymous No.2557452]

>>2557450
I paid a lot more than $10 for it and Bahco explicitly sells it as a fine woodworking chisel.

[Anonymous No.2557497]

>>2557452
Just shut the fuck up already..

[Anonymous No.2557536]

New thread >>2557534
New thread >>2557534
New thread >>2557534
New thread >>2557534

[Anonymous No.2557544]

>>2557452
anon you just discovered why people with cheap stainless knifes dont sharpen beyond 1k at most
1st, not worth the effort
2nd honing freehand without a guide youll likely round the edge over, on a coarse stone this will correct itself each stroke.

[Anonymous No.2558614]

Hey guys, I'm a shit head pallet goblin and I pulled apart a pallet with this wood. It's extremely lightweight, and super fuckin fibrous. When I was working it on my belt sander it was giving off long, wispy fibers.

Can anyone identify it?

[Anonymous No.2558616]

>>2558614

here's another shot of it worked