Thinking of starting a stick welding tutorial series

[Anonymous No.2535438]

Hey /diy/kheads, I've ordered a 2k action cam (knockoff gopro thing) and I want to set it up behind a autoflash lens so I can get it in real close and show each process in excruciating detail.
There is FUCK ALL on youtube about arc/stick/mma welding, and most of what is there is absolute garbage. There's a million gun Tig welders, but stick seems to be a lost boomer art.
Anyway I've spent years stick welding in heavy industry, I've learned all the boomers' tricks and invented a few of my own.

So, any suggestions or requests? What do you cunts think?

[Anonymous No.2535440]

While I'm here ama I guess

[Anonymous No.2535441]

I know this board is slow as fuck, but I'll check back here periodically over the next couple of days

[Anonymous No.2535453]

Who tf is still stick welding today.
Just use flux core.

[Anonymous No.2535479]

>>2535438
do a video on using an old idealarc tombstone to stick weld 3/8" plate

i'm always blowing through plates on the outside edges

[Anonymous No.2535483]

i'd probably watch em. tried stick welding recently and it came out okay but not as nice as i'd hoped. funnest part was getting one of those spicy bbs inside my boot.

[Anonymous No.2535496]

>>2535438
Stiff competition. Hope you have a passable boomer disguise.

[Anonymous No.2535497]

>>2535438
I'd watch. I just bought my first welder and have never welded a thing in my life.
polite sage for double post. but this is /diy/ who am i kidding. this thread will be here for weeks no matter what.

[Anonymous No.2535585]

I am thinking of making an egg sucking tutorial video for your granny

[Anonymous No.2535589]

It would probably be easier with an assistant/cameraman. I think it would be such a pain in the ass to go back & forth to the camera.

And youtube comments, especially for something like welding, are always chock full of "experts" bitching about the most minor things. It's like none of them realize it's much easier to leave a comment than video/explain the process.

>>2535453
>Who tf is still stick welding today
It's common at places that use heavy equipment. Not "construction", but mining, logging, farming, etc.

[Anonymous No.2535590]

>>2535438
>What do you cunts think?
I would greatly benefit from this. And I don't think I'm alone. Please do. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.2535598]

Good idea OP. Please do this. It sounds like your only problem is that everyone on YouTube will know you are a faggot.

[Anonymous No.2535605]

>>2535438
Filming weld is tricky.
I know that somebody have nailed it in 1940s ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45-Ipl8E0bk ) but nobody films on film anymore lol.
And one russian welder have nailed it too (https://youtu.be/ad0tJHHOd8U?t=53).).
>There is FUCK ALL on youtube about arc/stick/mma welding, and most of what is there is absolute garbage.
Yeah, I hate when pajeets have like 1/8 or thicker plate and they are dab-dab welding it. Just fucking run the bead.
On 1 - 1.5 mm - sure, dab-dab is a valid method.
>>2535453
Pipeline welding is done with stick.
Construction is sometimes done with stick.

[Anonymous No.2535609]

>>2535453
>Who tf is still stick welding today.
>Just use flux core.

Farmer here I still frequently stick weld. It's hard to beat for field repairs, portability, burning through paint and rust for non-ideal scenarios, and getting good penetration for welding critical thick stuff.

[Anonymous No.2535617]

>>2535453
It's still industry standard. This whole "stick is obsolete lol" myth is one of many I want to dispel.
Reality is flux core doesn't perform anywhere near as well as a low hydrogen rod. It isn't anwhere near as portable and creates chalky welds that are prone to shearing. To get good performance from flux core you still need to run shielding gas & high amps, which means you can kiss doing it out in the field goodbye.
>>2535590
Thanks dude, I know there's a niche here that hasn't been filled, there aren't many people around who stick weld beyond performing basic repairs in a pinch
>>2535605
>I hate when pajeets have like 1/8 or thicker plate and they are dab-dab welding it.
fucking this
>>2535609
Damn most farmer's welds are greivous as hell, nice work

[Anonymous No.2535624]

>>2535617
>Damn most farmer's welds are greivous as hell, nice work

Thanks man, I also have a bit of pride and try for proper fabrication techniques and good material fitup. Most farmers slap a piece of steel across some other steel and weld er up. My goal when I repair a piece of my equipment is to make the repair look as professional or invisible as I can. It is more fun to maintain and even use a piece of equipment that you're proud of.

Here's a disk tongue that broke off that I fisplated around all 4 sides and welded up. Of course that was migged because I could easily get it in the shop on my bench and manipulate it for easy welding. Hell I even did some grinding and painting afterwards so you can't really even tell it was repaired other than a slightly off color paint.

[Anonymous No.2535625]

After plating and welding.

[Anonymous No.2535626]

After a bit of turd polishing and spray bombing it.

[Anonymous No.2535630]

>>2535626
Actually after uploading that picture it looks like I didn't even grind it. Lol. Well I guess I just made myself a liar!

[Anonymous No.2535635]

>>2535453
>Just use flux core
Do you even know what 6010 rod is?

[Anonymous No.2535641]

>>2535626
Unironically better work than I see from 95% of maintenance fitters

[Anonymous No.2535651]

>>2535440
Thats a nice lookin welder trailer. Those rub rails/ tie down points look beefy as fuck. Do you have a tubing bender to bend the ends like that?

Also looks like the bottle cradle was well thought out and implemented. Good stuff!

The integrated taillight guards are a nice touch so you aren't constantly smashing up and fixing taillights.

I r8 8/8.

[Anonymous No.2535660]

>>2535438

Damn fine trailer. Do it. I've been collecting and vac sealing rods on sale for the last couple years. Waiting for a good deal to come up on an old skookum welder locally, I have half the safety gear and supporting tools.

I can't wait to get into it and become proficient. What a feeling it would be to know I can make what I need by myself right quick for the low price of sticks and usually scrap.

A video I could use right now is what to look for in a welder, and what supporting tools are worth getting and which are gimmicks.

What do you think about the fumes inhaled while welding? Seems like a bad idea to me, do you care and mitigate it in some way?

[Anonymous No.2535668]

>>2535438
There's plenty of videos, they just don't label it as "stick welding".

[Anonymous No.2535669]

>>2535453
Anything thicker than quarter inch stuff

[Anonymous No.2535692]

>>2535609
>burning through paint and rust for non-ideal scenarios
See, I never actually knew this about stick. I figured prep was as important as the other processes.

[Anonymous No.2535696]

On verticals I like to do little "Zs" (or Ns depending on how you look at it) with a slight pause at the top :)

[Anonymous No.2535708]

>>2535651
Thank you man, I just bent the rails with a bit of heat
>>2535660
>what supporting tools are worth getting and which are gimmicks
I unironically think the generator welder is a gimmick. First thing I do with it is run a lead out to my <$500 caddy.
If I built another one I'd buy myself a decent generator, and use the money I saved on a compressor, little plasma cutter and a pair of caddys. Probably still have change at that.
Really all you need to start in this industry is
>a caddy
>a grinder
>tape measure/square (optional)
My father and I have a workshop full of heavy equipment collecting spiders, it simply isn't necessary
>>2535668
Yeah and they're shit, that's my point

[Anonymous No.2535726]

>>2535438
Good luck and thank you for the effort anon.
Remember to put all the videos in a playlist when you're done.

[Anonymous No.2535762]

>>2535726
Cheers dude, I haven't actually started yet - I just wanted to bounce the idea somewhere, and so far I'd say the reception has been overwhelmingly positive. I know nothing about video editing, is it worth investing hours into learning? So far I'd say yeah, it is.

[Anonymous No.2535784]

>>2535438
Cover building a practice tree, making coupons for consistent practice, and bend testing including making a simple hydraulic press style AWS bend tester.

Reference everything to industry standards. Cover structural and pipe including passing 6G tests, setting amps by testing on scrap (no looking at dials which are not consistent anyway) etc.

Show an example tool bucket with explanations.

Cover helmets, tints, clear lens use, cheaters etc. There is more than enough content for an epic series with many views.

[Anonymous No.2535786]

>>2535617
It's done in the field on bridges etc all the time to earthquake codes but for repair welding stick is much handier (no wire feeder, switch rods at will, gouge if want).

[Anonymous No.2535798]

>>2535692
Prep matters but for farm repair work not so much. Reading is your friend. Cellulosic rods like 6011 work well on rusty metal.
Study rod maker literature and forums for details especially doing specialty work. There is certainly no downside to proper prep since it's so easy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAWSDfv0eHw

BTW AC works fine with suitable rod tho a bit spattery.

[Anonymous No.2535799]

>>2535438
Some AC examples would be useful as many don't know how capable it is.

[Anonymous No.2535815]

>>2535784
>There is more than enough content for an epic series with many views.
Absolutely. Initially though I want to do the most basic possible introduction to achieving a half decent weld
kinda like;
>set your welder to this many amps
>do this
Could have a layman doing decent ups in a couple of minutes if they're a visual learner
Something someone with zero experience can follow along with to learn the basic How without really needing to understand the Why.
I think there's a gap there somewhere between the shitty 30 second shorts and the hours long weld dot com courses

[Anonymous No.2535824]

I recently got a multiprocess welder, and I've been messing with MIG. It's pretty easy, but not as fun as stick.
Just curious, what kind of jobs can I get with stick experience but no certs? I passed my 3g but failed my 4g a couple years ago. Never followed up to retake or try to get work welding.
Also, how do i get peelers consistently?

[Anonymous No.2535875]

>>2535824
If you're a demonstrably good welder nobody asks about qualifications. Big companies have in-house engineers that sign off your work, once you've proven yourself they don't even check before signing.
If you can stick weld decently, you're a useful bastard almost anywhere, see: farmeranon itt.
I'd put my welding experience on a CV for a job at Google.
>how do i get peelers consistently?
Good temp, right rods, clean material. Having somewhere for your slag to escape helps a lot too, welding inside channels is a bitch because the slag seems to fuse to the weld, whereas doing an up the impurities fall away and I get nice, glassy slag that falls right off.
Clean material is probably #1 though. You might be able to burn through that rust or paint, but it still ends up inside your weld

[Anonymous No.2535893]

>>2535875
>If you're a demonstrably good welder nobody asks about qualifications.

Far more important to contractors are hiring tests because paper means nothing if the holder cannot pass x-ray or bend testing.

[Anonymous No.2535905]

Do it OP.
There is unlimited volumes of "how to weld this specific discipline" which are all for someone with basic welding skills and tools. The honest pros will tell you that if you want to learn from the start, you learn stick. Once you master solid arc you'll breeze through all other types of welding with a simple primer. There is a serious lack of beginner material on youtube that doesn't suck and is actually helpfull, try to remember that when you're making $100k a month.

[Anonymous No.2536012]

>>2535875
Thanks for the tips, anon.

[Anonymous No.2536040]

>>2536012
Super stoked on the reception bro. This thread massively increased my motivation to make this, the series I wish I'd had when I started
I'm thinking I'll do around 10 <5 minute videos, "Ups", "Downs", "Horizontals", "Pipes" etc. Talking will be minimal, probably set to my little brother's jam sessions, and it'll just be;
>set your welder to this
>do this
>watch out for this
and done.
Think I'll call the series "The Hitchhiker's Guide to Stick Welding", what do you reckon?

[Anonymous No.2536053]

>>2536040
Sounds good to me; I'll subscribe. My only advice is get a good mic. I hate watching videos with bad audio. And cover arc blowout; I didn't even learn what that was until halfway through my 4g test lol

[Anonymous No.2536544]

bump 4 OP

[Anonymous No.2536558]

>>2536544
At least bump it with some weld pics...

[Anonymous No.2536603]

>>2536558
ooooohh what is this?

[Anonymous No.2536757]

>>2536603
Press brake I made for my 50 ton HF press...

[Anonymous No.2536766]

>>2536757
Fucking noice im jelly

[Anonymous No.2536824]

>>2536040
I recorded several of my projects, but got cold feet and never created an account or uploaded them
I wouldnt mind helping a fellow /diy/er out though, id subscribe

[Anonymous No.2536869]

>>2536558
Those are some boner-inducing thicc welds. Really did those with a stick weld? <3

[Anonymous No.2536927]

wow my thread still going
nice

[Anonymous No.2536961]

>>2536869
Yeah that is some 7018 in flat position. It usually makes some nice n' pretty peelers when welding flat.

I don't use 7018 much though as I'm usually welding on crap and out of position stuff. I could have on the log splitter above, but ended up just doing a multi-pass with 6011 on it. 6011 is my favorite rod to run with the things I do.

[Anonymous No.2537083]

>>2535438
What's your channel called? If you get this working you got yourself a subscriber. I'll even click the cuckbell.

[Anonymous No.2537444]

>>2535440
Nice

[Anonymous No.2537445]

>>2535497
Same for me. I'd watch his tutorials...

[Anonymous No.2537815]

>>2537083
>>2537444
mm checked
>>2537445
Cheers guys, I've got my stuff set up and hopefully I'll start filming tomorrow. It'll probably take me months to do the series I want to make but I might put up some shorts or something if I can get some good footage.

[Anonymous No.2537870]

>>2537815
A lot of third world videos doing simple stick welding with just a CAR BATTERY and some electrodes. What kind of results would an expert like yourself get, and can you show the effects of DC polarity. Thank you for doing god's work.

[Anonymous No.2537871]

>>2535438
Sounds really fucking gay. Just use a wire that has what you need in it. You're making your life more difficult.

[Anonymous No.2537894]

>>2537815

How thicc is your table top?

I picked up pic related for $400. 3/4" thick top on it. Also picked up some more thick steel plates and some cast t-slot table tops to make some more welding benches out of someday.

[Anonymous No.2537899]

Can see the t-slot tops here as well as a couple of the thick plates. If I remember right the thinner one is 2" thick, and the thicker one is 2.5" thick

[Anonymous No.2538028]

>>2537871
>Just use a wire that has what you need in it
LMAO people like yourself are EXACTLY why I feel like this NEEDS to be made. You think I don't know how to use a mig? You think I don't have $20,000 worth of machines parked up?
A cheap stick welder can not only do EVERYTHING any any mig can do, it can do it many times better in many cases.
It isn't a matter of "yeah a stick can do it too"
it is "why can't this $2500 MIG do a weld as good as this $500 stick machine"
Not only can a stick "do it too" but it is the ideal manner of doing it MANY cases
Pic related, drag a fucking mig up there. Oh it's windy?
apologies I'm drunk as shit everyone

[Anonymous No.2538032]

>>2537894
it was 20mm thick, ugly piece of plate that had been used for a blast shield for over 20 years.
Has massive rust pitting in it , had been twisted and run over by excavators, I saved it from the scrap metal bin and turned the best piece of it into the bench everyone fights over
mapped out the only flat piece of it and profile cut it out, came to 1030×2320mm by time I got it square

[Anonymous No.2538034]

>>2535438
If you're going to put yourself out there on YT:
>people will shit on your skills and video quality even if you did a good job. Welders are the biggest cunts on YT and they tend to attack in packs. Grow a thick skin.
>people will bitch about videos themselves. Too loud, not loud enough, people like your voice-overs, people hate you talking, etc. etc.
>I'd avoid music except in your intro and outro. Make sure if you do use music that it's "no copyright" so your video doesn't get copyright flagged.
>develop your format and try to stick to it. I believe YT's "ideal" video length is 10 minutes. Break up your stuff into bite size pieces instead of an hour marathon. Learn to game the algorithm so your videos get pushed.
>be prepared for some asshat to report your videos and try to get them taken down for fun. They'll complain that you're showing something unsafe and YT isn't staffed by welders so their first reaction is usually to delete your video
>if you have something good going stick with your format and put out regular content. If you do that eventually the followers and views will come.
>you may want to consider also posting your stuff on tik tok and IG. If you don't some cunt will just steal your videos and post them there as their own. Oh, and be prepared for that too. People are ruthless and will steal your content in a heartbeat if it's good.

[Anonymous No.2538041]

>>2535438
>So, any suggestions or requests? What do you cunts think?
Youtube is an arms race.
If your video quality looks like a $100 action cam, and your audio sounds like a $100 action cam, it doesnt matter. People will not watch your shit, they WILL click away immediately.

>a 2k action cam, get in real close
Action cams have very wide angle shots (short focal length), you will not get a close up to a weld bead with one as itll have to be right next to it. Its built to do the exact opposite of what you want.
Google how focal lengths work, you want your camera to be away from the hot sparking welds getting a close up shot with a longer focal length.

You are extremely limited in the shots you can get with an action cam or a cell phone, the autofocus is absolute dogshit for both.
Image quality is good on a go pro or a iphone. Too bad raw image quality means NOTHING if you cant get what you want in frame, or if you are always going in and out of focus, or you cant gather enough light.
A lot more to filming than just 4k this, image quality that.

If you are really going to go all out and do it right in the first place, that means buying a real camera and getting an external mic.
No you dont go have to spend thousands on equipment, but you need to invest SOME, and learn how to shoot video. Its a skill in and of itself, as will be the video editing.

Go buy a used Sony a6100 (kit lens 16-50), or a Canon EOS M50 mk2 (kit lens 15-45)
Both with just a kit lens should come in under at or under $500 if you shop ebay or some of the used camera sites.
The kit lenses are ok and will suffice, but you can always upgrade to much higher quality optic lenses too.
Buy a Zoom H1N microphone and buy a decent wired Lav mic

If you are going to put large amounts of effort into actually doing the series, you are doing yourself a disservice to do it without proper equipment.
You want it to be done right the first time, so its watchable years down the line.

[Anonymous No.2538064]

>>2538028
>it is "why can't this $2500 MIG do a weld as good as this $500 stick machine"
this is something that kinda pisses me off. Maybe I'm just retarded, but I didn't know you couldn't get the same penetration as SMAW. looks pretty though

>>2538041
based camera man

[Anonymous No.2538069]

>>2538041
I want to make a few more points.
The "kit lens" just means the original lens that comes with the camera new

Both kit lenses have real "optical zoom", meaning they physically move the optics in and out making the focal length change. So you get a real "zoom" effect, with full image quality.

An Iphone or an action cam do not. They can do "digital zoom" which is fake. They have one focal length, and then digitally blow the picture up.

Imagine you are looking at something far away.
Optical zoom is like using a pair of binoculars.
Digital zoom is like taking a Polaroid picture, and then just putting the picture closer to your eyes.
There is no more information no matter how close you stick the picture to your face.
You need to optics to see farther to gather more information.

Go take a video with your phone and then zoom in, rewatch it and youll see the video quality degrades to the point of unwatchable quickly.
Same will happen with your action cam trying to zoom in to see a weld bead.

Having the real zoom lens will be the difference of you just twisting the lens and "zooming" in, vs you picking up and moving a tripod with an Iphone on it forward and back 5 feet every time you want to change whats in frame. With welding, your camera will be dangerously close to heat and sparks. Its very problematic moving it around so much

Also both lenses have real image stabilization.
Real stepper motors which rapidly moves the glass inside of the lenses back and forth to keep it stable.
Phones do it through shitty software which kind of works but degrades image quality. Stuff you can apply to your real cameras video later on if youd like.

>>2538064
>based camera man
Cameras are way cooler than people give them credit for. We take them for granted because our phones take good point and shoot pics.
The second you arent in selfie range, or you arent doing a podcast where you sit in one spot, camera phones fall completely apart.

[Anonymous No.2538085]

i would appreciate some more videos on how to use stick welding overhead and around tubing such as pic related. working up to rebuilding a cattle corral out at a ranch and gonna need to get competent with working with tube/pipe. also any tips and information on welding math/layout in the shop would be awesome.

[Anonymous No.2538114]

>>2538085
>i would appreciate some more videos on how to use stick welding overhead and around tubing such as pic related. working up to rebuilding a cattle corral out at a ranch and gonna need to get competent with working with tube/pipe. also any tips and information on welding math/layout in the shop would be awesome

Just practice practice practice. 6010 or 6011 is best for stuff like this because it is fast cooling and doesn't want to drip as bad as 6013 or 7018. If you are using drill stem you might want to use 7018 though as it is considered a high carbon steel and the welds with 6011 can sometimes crack because they cool and shrink too quickly.

Pic related is one of 3 bull proof bale feeders I made out of 2-7/8 drill stem. I have since added conveyor belting to the bottoms to keep waste down, but that was right after I made them. I need to make another 3 or 4 more someday.

[Anonymous No.2538118]

>>2538085
Overhead is EZ, crank your welder up 5-10 amps hotter than you'd do a downhand, and keep your rod 90ish degrees to your work, perhaps tending backward a few degrees. I find counter-clockwise circle weaves give me the best results. There's a picture of myself doing an overhead earlier ITT for reference. Pretty much straight up & down.
Your work looks pretty decent already, just don't skip the prep. Rust and dirt makes everything harder and ruins the final product.

[Anonymous No.2538637]

>stick seems like a lost boomer art
That's because it really is besides pipelining and farmers. There are some decent stick stuff on yt but most of it is garbage I'll grant you that.

[Anonymous No.2538780]

>>2538085
Idk how good he is but Austin Ross already has a bunch of videos on tube fence welding

[Anonymous No.2538783]

>>2535479
You're running far too many amps. Look up the proper amps for your rod. Running fast and hot is fine but many overdo it.

[Anonymous No.2538786]

>>2538780
He's good at it too.

[Anonymous No.2538800]

>>2535479
What rod/size/amperage?
Odds are you're either running to high amperage, you're travelling too slow or you're long arcing.
If you're just running beads on plate then the edges will get really hot as there's not nearly as much metal to disperse the heat.

[Anonymous No.2538837]

>>2538783
>>2538800
3/32" 6013 on 1/4" plate, fillet welds and also just running beads on top for practice
anywhere from 75-99 amps, i've tried it all, maybe a combination of long arching and my old idealarc running hotter than the hand crank dial says

[Anonymous No.2538901]

>>2535438
Sounds like a great idea. Suggestion? Do not entirely focus on 6010/6011, it appears that Europoors and lots of other countries stick to '7018 all the way' or maybe something like 6013.

6010 and other fast freeze cellulosic rods are commonly not within approved/accredited procedures.

When learning how to stick weld in a welding school in a decrepit ex-soviet shipyard I had lots of different type rods available to try from either local ones to ESAB, Kobelco or Böhler, but not a single 6010 variety was on site. I got mad at em and ordered a 5kg can of Lincoln Fleetweld 5P from a welding specialties supplier to try how should "proper youtube style" pipe root passes feel. We did all root either 7018 or 6013 for 1/8" wall pipe. This confuses the hell out of me, desu. Stitching/whipping with fast-freeze rods just feels so much appropriate.

[Anonymous No.2539029]

>>2538637
Most of my work is in mining, and stick is still the best tool for most jobs. The trouble is a lack of skilled people, its easier to just put some kid on a MIG and be done with it.
>>2538901
This is actually a bit of a problem, I'm in NZ and Australia/NZ use entirely different rods and standards to the rest of the world.
90% of my welding is done with 16TC, the rest with 77 or 68. I'm not even sure what the international equivalents are.

[Anonymous No.2539196]

>>2539029
>16TC
7016
>77
7018/7018-1
>68
some stainless/cast iron rods like NiCrFe 3

[Anonymous No.2539315]

>>2539029
gib job pls

[Anonymous No.2539429]

>>2535440
I have zero practical experience with welding or metal working in general. I'm also a cheapskate and want to spend as little money as possible.
What's a good way to learn welding in a small basement without wasting tons of material? Or do I need to be outside(fumes)? Is stick welding the best way to weld? Can I diy my own consumables? DIY the welder itself? Pros and cons of different welding types in general?

[Anonymous No.2539462]

>>2539429
Cheapest way is with a car battery and some jumper cables, steal some rods from HF (probably 7018 or 6013) and find a thrown out metal bed frame or some such. If you're lucky you can steal the car battery and cables too.

[Anonymous No.2539472]

Did a little filming today, turns out it is extremely difficult to film a mess of smoke plasma. The light was getting around the welding lens into the camera and fucking everything up. I taped the camera inside my welding helmet, which was extremely awkward, I got far better results but still only really suceeded in filming the back of my hand. After having a few whiskys on the matter, I've realized I need to make some kind of enclosure for the camera, so I'll attempt that tomorrow.
Kinda dawning on me that I might not be able to do this effectively without spending money.
>>2539429
Stick is definitely the cheapest and most versatile method, but it isn't easy. There's also very little useful information online that doesn't assume you're 3 years deep into a trade, hence me making this thread
>>2539315
something something give a man a fish

[Anonymous No.2539488]

>>2539472
my hood has a removable autodarkening module. Can you weld up a little box with a provision to mounti the module in front, keep the camera inside, and a litttle nut on the bottom to bolt to a tripod.

[Anonymous No.2539521]

since it's the most relevant thread: There used to be a guy running a youtube channel on welding a few years ago. Was a younger american dude with close cropped/shaved hair. can't remember the name and I'm sure I was subscribed but can't find. Did he delete the channel or what?

[Anonymous No.2539525]

>>2539429
The desperation cheap way will be basically useless so don't bother. Cheaptism often backfires but you can ECONOMICALLY learn to produce quality welds. Welding practice properly done is far from "waste". An old AC transformer machine can produce excellent work.

If you have zero money do something else. Trying to DIY everything at once with zero experience will just stack mistakes so deep you won't accomplish much and that is not being negative.

Definitely weld outdoors. You'll need an angle grinder etc to prep and a variety of other tools as well as a table, stand or vise to hold your work. Spend ten or twenty hours reading and watching videos then decide.

[Anonymous No.2539530]

>>2539521
chucke2009? he got the boot after reading a certain manifesto from a certain kiwi iirc.

[Anonymous No.2539534]

>>2539530
Chuck was more entertainer than anything else but he did get good. His gig was mostly repair welding and some fab.

[Anonymous No.2539536]

>>2539530
Thats it! Yeah I got the vibe he would do something like that, didn't really give a shit because he seemed to know what he was doing. Oh well brainworm solved thank you.

[Anonymous No.2539545]

>>2539530
He made 3 or 4 videos talking about how he is going to be a martyr and knows his channel will get deleted. Said it was important for the future of the white race.
He read the christchurch manifesto in full, and uploaded it to youtube. It was immediately taken down, so he kept reuploading it until Youtube killed his account.

Yep.
The guy who made a youtube channel about welding. One of the few hobbies/trades where you can go and buy american made welders, american made consumables, and american made everything in between made by hardworking white people.

The guy who didnt actually use american made stuff, but was paid for and shilled chinese made welder.
The guy who made countless videos about buying cheap amazon welders. Cheap amazon tools. Cheap harbor freight tools.
He's the one who put EVERLAST on the map, he was the original spokesperson. He pushed buying Harbor Freight welders.
He was a shill for the SawBlade company, direct competitors to american made blades and cutoff discs.

He built his whole career on shilling chinese trash that is actively killing one of the last white american commercial industries.
And then he has the fucking gall to get up and start preaching about "saving the white race"

His channel had very little to do with welding by the end, just cheap consumer amazon junk or a video about how shitty of a mechanic he is. He bought a tractor and was just too stupid to keep it running.

He's back btw, turns out all that easy shill money and adsense revenue was too hard to give up.
So much for his martyrdom and convictions huh?

Here you go, dont forget to like, subscribe, join his patreon, join his telegram, and to buy these import wrenches from his amazon afilliate link so he gets a nice kickback from mr bezos!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xuw84J6fGO0

He has almost no welding videos at all, but he does have one begging for money because he's going to get "cancelled" by the "woke mob" for the 4th or 5th time!

[Anonymous No.2539587]

>>2535453
Penetration. Stick penetrates better/necessary for thicker metals. Thin metals your good and mig is faster and easier.

[Anonymous No.2539623]

>>2539587
FCAW and Dual Shield weld bridges in earthquake zones to code. Wire welding is better for somewhat thin metals. TIG and oxy-aceylene (there is good reason jewelers use small torches) work best on very thin stock.

One key mistake many noobs make is using .035" wire on auto body jobs. You can but thinner is better. There's plenty of info on welding modern car steels and it's worth reading. MIG brazing works great but needs argon shielding gas.

[Anonymous No.2539654]

>>2539545

Man you really read into Chucke2009 a lot. He just seemed like a bit of a dumbass to me. His welds looked pretty good, but his fabrication skills were pretty much garbage. He just slapped this straight cut piece against this straight cut piece and welded it up. No thought into what the resulting horror would look or function like.
>>2539623
>One key mistake many noobs make is using .035" wire on auto body jobs.

Yeah but who really wants to change out the wire spool? .035" for errrything!

[Anonymous No.2539656]

>>2539623
>MIG brazing
What?

>>2539654
>Yeah but who really wants to change out the wire spool? .035" for errrything!
I have one cheapo mig with .022 or whatever wire in it for auto body, and my good miller with 35 for everything else.

[Anonymous No.2540039]

>>2539429
you can't tell me you can't afford a $100 harbor freight special stick welder

[Anonymous No.2540177]

>>2539654
>Man you really read into Chucke2009 a lot.
He had been hated on this board for years on how he gave up on welding and became a professional shill. Pretty much universally mocked.

It was only when he started doing /pol/ shit did a small amount of people start acting like he was a god.
No matter how much agree with his politics, his channel is still trash.
I agree in some ways with him, which is why if I support american industry when I can.

He had old school big youtube money, he could afford to buy real tools if he had wanted to. He instead lined chink pockets.

[Anonymous No.2540356]

>>2539656
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4I21ojJYwA

[Anonymous No.2540412]

>>2535438
i would apreciate it as my budget allows me to onely learn stickwelding, looks affordable and functional if you know what you're

i have a helmet, gloves , stickwelder and a pack of E6011 electrodes
everything i made so far looks like shit and is barely functional or breaks afer 5-10 uses

[Anonymous No.2540508]

>>2540412
I think there's a million people like you

Making some decent progress on recording some footage, pretty clear my camera isn't really fit for purpose though
might try to make a webbum tonight if I don't get too drunk on the way home

[Anonymous No.2540745]

Looks like OP might have gotten drunk on the way home lol

[Anonymous No.2540757]

>>2540177
eheh it's funny I tickled something with my question. I genuinely couldn't remember the guys name, and I'm sure i've found better channels by now. It was just like that one old chorus you can't get out of your head.

[Anonymous No.2541462]

>>2535440
>>2535441

looks like good shit man.

What kind of welder do I buy if I'm just starting out? My company uses bagging machines and conveyors, I might fiddle around with small sheet metal fabrication.

[Anonymous No.2541608]

>>2541462
If you're planning on doing thin sheetmetal work, a stick welder is going to be very difficult to use without a lot of experience. Probably better off looking for a small, single phase MIG. You won't need anything particularly powerful.
I can stick weld exhaust tube, but I don't know anyone else who can.

[Anonymous No.2542451]

welders tongue my anus

[Anonymous No.2542957]

>>2542451
NUH UH

[Anonymous No.2543655]

>>2540508
Ex coded welder here from the WA mines..doing good work there bro…One question tho - You not into adflos at all?

[Anonymous No.2543688]

Found bolt cutters that were abused and thrown away (picrel). Was considering building up the effed up portions with stick welder. I have run of the mill variety of rods, some Blue Demon Alloy 7000 X 1/8" general purpose hardfacing maintenance electrodes, and maybe even a couple nickel rods in the hoard. Which would be best to use? Saw some neat ones recommended by This old Tony called weld mills 958, but couldn't find for purchase.
This is just for the sake of practice and doing and practicing. Would it be necessary to heat up prior and cool slowly?

[Anonymous No.2543690]

I'd go with the hardfacing rod for sure. Anything else will just dent the first time you try to use them as actual bolt cutters. A little pre heat before welding couldn't hurt. I don't think you'd have to worry too much about post heat due to the fact that they aren't cast iron, but forged material.

[Anonymous No.2543691]

>>2543688
Not really worth it m8. Sad state, if they were old pliers them is good'ns, but again I would think it wouldn't be worth the time. Even to practice. IF you use them after the fact you will not be happy because they'll do diddly.

[Anonymous No.2543798]

>>2543655
Find them a bit of a pain in the ass. I smoke 20+ a day, some steel fumes don't bother me too much. Besides, last thing I want to do with a $2,000 helmet is fuck it on some cunt's minesite.
I should probably start using one though I guess.

[Anonymous No.2543864]

>>2543798
They can be a pain, i use a backpack on my own one which i wouldnt take anywhere near a mine, fuck the belt..

Rio supplied them when i was last in but guys still treated them like shit..stealing other guys batteries etc.

Mine stays in my fab shop at home

[Anonymous No.2543880]

>>2543655
Another thing you could do since the cutting edges are already fucked is to grind a couple round notches into them and turn them into big crimpers for battery cable lugs or crimping lugs onto welding leads.

[Anonymous No.2544568]

neat

[Anonymous No.2544569]

>>2544568
Are you going to post a video or not?
you keep repeatedly bumping this from the last page, and havent made a single thing

[Anonymous No.2545174]

>>2535440
I'm going to hot dip galvanize your mom. The screams of ecstasy as zinc enters her pores infusing her with long lasting rust inhabitation.

[Anonymous No.2545848]

>>2535438
Hey what unorthodox welding techniques do you like? I don't have a steady hand so i keep a single finger under the rod when it's new and too long, as I go I drop the finger. In YouTube there is a video of an old guy who hooked his stick in such a way as to use the rod as a pencil.

[Anonymous No.2546106]

>>2535438
You have any good tricks for stick welding 3f uphill? I've been relearning stick since I haven't ran it since school, starting with 6010 rod. Also on 7018 rod is it really necessary for a rod oven? Or can I get away with storing it in a dehumidifier room

[Anonymous No.2547681]

I have 20x30x1.5 mm square pipe.
Idk how to weld it with stick.

3/32 6013 - continuous bead just blows through it instantly, or doesn't leave enough material. Dab-dab leaves slag inclusions.
3/32 6010 - continuous bead is kinda impossible since mid weld it just blows through (and current is already low as fuck). Dab-dab works, but slag is impossible to remove, and I need a bit of reinforcement, so I cant just grind it off. At least no porosity/slag inclusions, and apparently brand of 6010s is pretty badass as metal is really white shiny after I remove slag and according to specs it holds 500 MPa which is comparable to 7018.

How low can I go with current on 6010? On 6013 you can't go really low as slag will get in front of puddle and ruin your day. But 6010 - I've never tried running it below 45A.
Try 6011?
What about 7018 3/32 ? Will it run at 30A?

[Anonymous No.2547985]

>>2544569
I've been extremely busy moving a fixed plant, I haven't done much welding this past two weeks although I did get some kinda decent footage of vertical up welding 4" pipe which I've started to edit. I was just gonna post some unedited shit but I don't really see a point and the file limits here make webbums a pain in the ass. It's really more of a medium term goal. Hopefully I'll have ~something~ within a few weeks.
>>2547681
I'd go to around 60 amps and move fast. Don't weave. If you need to go over it again that's fine. Biggest mistake I see people make with thin material is trying to do too thick of a weld. Remember if your piece is only 1.5mm thick, a 2mm weld is well above full penetration

[Anonymous No.2548002]

>>2547985
To expand on this, most things don't even need to be full penetration welded. A 6mm weld on a 10mm thick bar will hold just fine. Add a small gusset and it will be nearly indestructible. People go on about "full peen" like it's a law but if you're just making a coffee table who really gives a shit.
Pic related (other than showing off my setup) was all made with 25mm square tube that's 1mm thick, welded as I described. Cleanliness is very important because you're doing a straight run, no weave, so you don't get a chance to burn any slag pockets out.

[Anonymous No.2548007]

>>2547681
I like this 100amp russian youtuber vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPlimLt6xJI
There is no english subtitles, but the guy has god-tier camera work, you'll see the back-and-forth stitching he does and the overall speed seems exaggerated, but once you'll see the backside view of the heat zone (around 6:40) it makes a perfect sense. He does a small stop at the end because accumulated heat is enough to blow the metal through if you try to do some crater-filling motion right away before cooling the seam for a split second.
When attaching smaller part or a riser, he advises to keep 2/3 of the heat on the bigger part.
Also note the electrode angle, quite extreme. Once you go right angle it will blow through.
He runs abt 65-70 with 3/32 of 6013 (esab ok.46).
Austin Ross has a nice vid too.

[Anonymous No.2548104]

>>2536927
what is that?

[Anonymous No.2548149]

>>2547985
>2mm weld is well above full penetration
Fuck... I have 2 mm gaps in some places.
Anyway, doesn't matter, grinder and paint

[Anonymous No.2548193]

>>2535438
Is weldtube, weld.com and weldingtipsandtrics not good enough?
I'll probably watch it anyways.

[Anonymous No.2548208]

>>2535438
I'd like to learn how to deal with warping. How to avoid it or how to fix it maybe.

[Anonymous No.2548249]

>>2548104
Its a retarded over-engineered chute. It started as a "temporary" fix to side feed material into a plant (just stick this pipe into the side lol its only temporary to fill an order) to overclock a crushing plant. Once management nerds realised they could make more money, it gradually become more permanent.
Now it is an absolute monstrosity of excess but I enjoyed making it so I just smirked when they handed me the drawings.
Any sane person would just build a square chute, but management types are seldom sane.
>>2548193
Yeah they're great, they just aren't to the point. They prattle on about standards, and awfully specific shit that your average joe has no need for. And since they're geared toward industry standards, they aren't gonna show you any cheats
>this is how you weld a pipe to xxx standard and any other method is completely wrong
When you work in heavy industry all that shit goes straight out the window the moment you're laying on your back inside a rock crusher getting burned and electrocuted
I want a series of 5 minute videos on each position with a clear and concise explanation of the basic operation geared toward someone who wants to fuck around in their shed. I'd fully expect to have weld.com types reeeeeing in the comments about how absolutely everything I do is wrong.

[Anonymous No.2548328]

>>2548249
>but management types are seldom sane.
They're just built different.
I wish that was just an overexaggeration.

[Anonymous No.2548340]

>>2548208
I'm assuming you're working with sheet or plate. Start in the center of your weld, weld back on to your center weld from both sides, staggering the heat you put into the piece and allowing the tension to escape from the ends of your weld. If you're welding plate, mirror your welds. Do one weld on one side, then the same on the other, back and forth.
>give the stress somewhere to escape, don't lock it all in and keep welding
>use a heatsink - something that'll pull the heat out of your work, having big chunks of steel lying around is handy. A thick workbench is also helpful
>slow down, paid by the hour bro take it easy
If all this fails, you've got no choice but to take the absolute opposite approach and lock everything tight. Tack in temporary strongbacks and hope for the best once you cut them off later
>ping!
fuck

[Anonymous No.2548427]

>>2548249
The internal panels of the chute, are they removeable/replaceable?

[Anonymous No.2549690]

Good stick tutorials would be great content. I work in a concrete company, and stick is our got to as far as on site welding is concerned.
Would be great to learn how to properly use it.

[Anonymous No.2549709]

>>2541608
>I can stick weld exhaust tube, but I don't know anyone else who can.
Farmer here, I only own a stick welder. I can stick weld exhaust tubing, but ho-lee-jesus do my welds look rough, and requires a fuckton of grinding and touchup.

[Anonymous No.2549744]

>>2549709
Reverse the leads.

[Anonymous No.2550690]

Hey USbros, is it correct that welding schools are becoming a meme scam with hefty tuition fees like $20,000-$50,000 and all standard kit of "golden age of X job, our graduates start with $YY/hr, get all the promocodes from our sponsors to immediately loan a bunch of stuff you'll have no clue to use properly" and so on? Sounds like IT schools and courses in turd-worlder countries, the same attitude.
Are your community colleges and vocational schools seem any good and functional?

[Anonymous No.2552205]

https://youtu.be/pltQpkzNjVs
Ok I've put something together.
Took me a little while I know and it isn't what I'd planned on making, but its what I could do with the footage I managed to get.
>>2548427
Cast Ni-Hard plates yeah. Ridiculously expensive.

[Anonymous No.2552318]

>>2549709
Welders have makes and models. AC only with suitable rods can do surprisingly well but for exhaust tubing (especially modern aftermarket thin repair parts) a wire welding will serve you better.

The classic combo is stick for thick and FCAW or MIG for sheet metal.

>>2550690
The one I attended and later worked for could take a (talented, if you're not then spin wrenches instead) student off the block and have them pass 6G hiring tests in 19 weeks. That was a workforce training program which had the fatal flaw that a criminal record kills job chances. Too bad no one warned most of them but the non-trash kicked ass and came back off the road to visit and help noobs for fun. Real welders be like that.

One way for the hardcore is get on with a union training program (798 famously train their own which guarantees hiring them gets talent and skill). https://local798.org/training/ Another way is weld for the Navy who have the best schools for shipyard work.

Some become helpers then fitters (ya need to be able to fit for best results) then welders. School is a great opportunity to get max booth time quickly.

[Anonymous No.2552321]

>>2540412
Practice more. READ more. Read welding forums. Clean your work even if you run cellulose rod like 6011. Building muscle memory is key.

We had first day students doing minimum of 6" bead pad welds because short leetle tacks don't build consistency.

[Anonymous No.2552387]

um, whats ur channel called

[Anonymous No.2552449]

>>2552387
Posted a link back >>2552205
Only got one video for now, and I don't really explain anything because the footage doesn't show anything worth explaining. More just an excuse to play with video editing and start doing ~something~
Next I'd like to make a video explaining the common amp ranges for common rods. Figure I can do that decently without having amazing footage of the weld pool.

[Anonymous No.2554365]

>>2535438
A lot. Of welders here so I'll ask this here
>can I use use Romex wire as filler material for brazing copper to brass?
If not, what kind of rod should a buy? A local weld supply shop sells individual rods, but I would like to avoid spending money if I can.

[Anonymous No.2554389]

>>2554365
>can I use use Romex wire as filler material for brazing copper to brass?
Kinda, not best. There is a reason why they sell special bronze alloys in welding supply store, you know.
>If not, what kind of rod should a buy?
I can't tell you with this, as I've just NIG (gouging electrode with no shielding gas) welded with copper wire.
>>2540412
With shitty inverter you can weld 1 mm tubing and up. 6010 is better as it produce less slag.
1.5 mm is 6/10 difficulty.
2.0 mm tubing is 4/10 and you can already use better rods like 7018, because you don't need to dab-dab at tubing this thick.

[Anonymous No.2554687]

Well timed thread mate. I am looking to buy my 1st welder and looking at this one. Any good?
https://www.bobthewelder.com.au/products/150a-buddy-mig-weldpoint-bonuses-633130wp?_pos=1&_sid=be6031082&_ss=r

[Anonymous No.2554877]

>>2554687
Half the point of this thread was to encourage beginners/home handymen to pick up a stick instead of buying garbage 3 in 1s or underpowered MIGs.

[Anonymous No.2554929]

>>2554687
Go with a Everlast welder

[Anonymous No.2555077]

>>2535438
Can you suggest a decent quality multifunction welder that can do stick and tig? I'm basically only going to be using it on thin stainless. I have ~4k to spend.

Oh I'm a leaf so availability is going to be fuck all and prices are going to be multiplied by five so keep that in mind.

[Anonymous No.2555172]

>>2555077
You won't need to spend 4k that's for sure. I have an extremely good way over the top AC tig unit that cost around $3,000 NZD, so probably 2200 US, but my $400 stick machine I beat around minesites can tig just fine. Assuming you don't want to weld aluminium/ other exotic materials, you won't need AC, which is where they start getting pricey. Also end up paying for a heap of buttons and dials I have no idea how to use.
I only really stick weld anyway so probably the wrong person to ask desu
that tig machine of mine has only been switched on twice in two years

[Grond No.2555652]

I've always wanted to learn to weld for dicking around in my shed.

I really like brass and bronze, and I want to make stuff using 4-6 mm bars and 1-2 mm sheets of those materials.

What type of welder would be best for those? I guess stick would just burn right though them, but I have absolutely no knowledge of the pros and cons of the different types right now.

[Anonymous No.2555758]

>>2555652
Brass and bronze are typically brazed (a far more forgotten art than stick welding) but can be Tig welded. Most stick welders have basic Tig function.

[Anonymous No.2555992]

https://youtu.be/J_BITcxp4OI
Right, I've made a "real" video.
Feedback appreciated

[Grond No.2556290]

>>2555758
AHH, cool. Seems like brazing is even cheaper to do, in terms of equipment.
Ordered some flux and low-silver brazing rods. Already got a simple blowtorch.

[Anonymous No.2556326]

>>2555992
That welder is smoking!

Saw long electrodes like that before on another video. Just assumed they were an industry item, never considered they were made.
Thought it was a good pace.

[Anonymous No.2556505]

>>2556326
Thank you man. I've got a couple of big walkways to build soon, stairs, handrails, all that good shit. I need a better camera obviously, something with an adjustable focal length so that I can ~actually~ record some welding.

[Anonymous No.2556568]

>>2556505
The Russian welder previously posted has great camera work. Reminds me of the autodarkening color helmets. I got one, but it was too slow, so sent it back. Have you started fiddling with a rig?

[Anonymous No.2556682]

>>2556568
Yeah, his recording is excellent. He welds too hot and has shaky hands though but I digress
My mrs found her 1080/60p camcorder with a proper zoom lens on it today, I'll try that zoomed in behind an autoflash next week.

[Anonymous No.2556688]

>>2555992

What is that roller that you are making in the video for?

>>2556682
Cute lil flatbed!

[Anonymous No.2556930]

>>2556688
It's a slatted taildrum roller for a large conveyor that carries rocks. The idea is that if a rock gets on the underside of the belt, instead of punching a hole through it, it'll get pushed between the slats, and bounce around inside until it is ejected out of the hole. The belt it is going on is probably worth 100 grand so it's worth the effort.

[Anonymous No.2557448]

I am interested as well. Wire never convinced me as it is too in ideal conditions which is not like my life goes on, i am not going to get certifications, so is not like i could or want to work professionally welding in a nice place. i am a mech engineer and rural guy anyway, so want to learn to mess around and for cheap.
I added you to my freetube, sorry no official subscription as i don't do use my google botnet account on youtube

[Anonymous No.2557878]

Do a video with exercises and practices, like a whole course, there are actually quite a lot of videos of people welding stick

[Anonymous No.2557951]

>>2557878
>quite a lot of videos of people welding stick
Yes, and they're shit
Here, I just made a new video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_6F6WqrTKQ

[Anonymous No.2557964]

>>2535453
Le ebin trole

On a serious note;
PLEASE DO OP I WANT TO LEARN BETTER STICK.
I guess just stick it inside any ole adjustable mask?

[Anonymous No.2560050]

Made a new video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btngzG0CGD0

[Anonymous No.2560135]

>>2535438
stick vs flux core? I don't need it to look pretty - the welds just have to be strong. which is better for performance (disregarding faggy looks). (no, i dont want no inert gas bullshit with extra gas bottles)

[Anonymous No.2560201]

>>2560050
Nice. Only thing you might do is make sure you state what rod and amperage ranges you are using for your videos. That might help someone get an idea of what is an appropriate electrode and settings for different welding projects.

I know 90% of the time when I'm breaking out the stick welder it is dirty as shit steel and 6011 running way too hot... I don't weld "nice" stuff much at all.

[Anonymous No.2560377]

>>2560135
Stick is far stronger than flux core welds. We use dual shield flux core (C02 + flux core) to improve the performance, but it's still inferior to stick in every way except speed.
>>2560201
Amps & rods are in the description

[Anonymous No.2560672]

>>2535708
What's a 'caddy"?

[Anonymous No.2560703]

>>2535589
>It's common at places that use heavy equipment. Not "construction", but mining, logging, farming, etc.
This. I've only just started stick welding with no previous welding experience on a dairy farm out of necessity. Sometimes a rock busts a plow etc and you need to join bits of dirty steel plate together fast and don't care how it looks as long as it's structural

[Anonymous No.2560729]

>>2560672
It was a brand of Esab portable stick welder, but we just call any portable stick machine a "caddy"

[Anonymous No.2560772]

>>2554877
So, is something like a Stahlwerk CTM250 dumb?
I'd like to weld small things, aluminum and also have the option to do stick welding on metal frames made of I beams and square tubing.
Is it cheaper to bus separate tools?
Because I regret doing that for my bike tools, where it'd have been cheaper to just buy a kit with "everything" (so more than I'd need at first) but then just end up buying everything piecemeal anyways.
Also it seemd sensible to buy something like pic related in order to not have to buy accesories (slag hammer, visor, a few rods, plasma cutter, flow regulator etc.) pice by piece again.

[Anonymous No.2560840]

What do you think? I've been welding for about 15 years and I am getting pretty good.

[Anonymous No.2560851]

>>2560377
>Amps & rods are in the description
Ah good deal. I just watched the embedded videos on here and didn't go to Jewtube and read the description.

[Anonymous No.2560988]

>>2560772
I have no idea. It might be a good unit for what you want, but I'd personally never touch one. Never even seen that brand before.
I can assume the Mig will be underpowered- you'll only be running fine wire. Fine flux core wire is a bit of a problem. Flux core wire is a tube with flux inside, after all. Ideally you'd want to run hard wire + gas, but there goes your convenience.
You want to weld aluminium, you'll need to have a AC setting on there, which those little 3 in 1s don't have.
As for stick, with those machines they don't even bother putting a decent stick unit in them.
>"You have mig and tig, I mean, yeah I guess it can burn a rod if you want idk man"
In my opinion they're just a bit gimmicky. Like a swiss army knife. Yeah it has a phillips head screwdriver but so what. Could've bought a better screwdriver and a knife for half the price and thrown the other shit in the bin.

[Anonymous No.2561037]

>>2560772
>So, is something like a Stahlwerk CTM250 dumb?
No I have a mig welder, arc welder, and a plasma cutter, kinda wish I had gotten an all in one, takes up less space and much more portable.

[Anonymous No.2561055]

>starting certification process, focus is on stick welding
>family has qualified boilermakers so good experience and support

Anyone have any basic bitch resources for starting with good habits, I was basically going to scour youtube and fuck around with a kit myself to learn

[Anonymous No.2561133]

>>2535641
FML that's mediocre.

[Anonymous No.2561173]

>>2560988
Listen to this guy. If you want production speed, and convenience use Flux core(with gas). For maintenance and versatility get a stick/tig. A cheap stick welder with scratch start tig(no pedal) can be had for a few hundred bucks. The only drawback is you can't weld aluminum with those stick/tig machines as they require an AC inverter.
Stick is cheap and you can weld most metals with it including aluminum(reverse polarity) and stainless.
Also consider the cost of gas for wire and tig operations as bottles there is usually a rental fee for the bottle as well as the gas used.
The combo welders with multiple functions (mig, stick, plasma) are hobby welders for occasional use. You don't see these types of welders in professional shops.

[Anonymous No.2561176]

Please click the link it’s very important https://pastebin.com/svsfjW1s

[Anonymous No.2561211]

>>2561176
>i ain't clicking that shit nigga.jpg

[Anonymous No.2561389]

>>2561133
Can you do better with a stick?

[Anonymous No.2561409]

>>2561133
Looks good to me.

[Anonymous No.2561646]

>>2560988
>Never even seen that brand before.
It's some Germoid brand, I take it you're American?
>MIGger not working/being underpowered
Sorry for not linking a datasheet right away.
https://www.stahlwerk-schweissgeraete.de/combination-welder-ctm250st
It's in English.
Is it a big problem to only have DC MIG welding and not an AC MIG option? (Means you'd have to TIG Aluminium but Al fab is a different beast anyways, right?)
MIG is claimed to run with 200 A.
It says flux cored wire is possible to run on the MIG option (and that it uses 4 rollers for reliable and strong feed).
Also: "device not for use in residential areas due to EMI radiation" - does that mean I'm kinda fucked with this either way or can I get away with it as long as I don't bother neighbors TV watching?
>AC setting on there
Yeah, looks like I'm screwed with that one.
It says an AC/DC unit would be required.
That probably means the search has to go on.
>Stick unit sucks
Do you think it's gonna be underpowered?
>swiss knife comparison
I definetly know what you mean which is why I'm suspicious still.

Btw: nice video.
Is it maybe possible to use a GoPro or a camera with a self-shading visor on an articulating "magic" arm with a magnet base?
That might allow really close shots so viewers of your videos can see from "over your shoulder" instead of behind you on the table?
I know nothing, just trying to be helpful in return.

>>2561037
Yeah, it's the reason I was thinking about a multiple-in-1 that costs more at first.

>>2561173
The model I posted says it has a scratch start.
But this one doesn't have AC so it's kinda a moot point as per my initial desire (which is liable to change after colliding with reality of course)
>Don't see multitools in pro shops
I might have to go the piecemeal route then again, but maybe the "hobby" solution is the right fit if I find the right model.

[Anonymous No.2561672]

>>2561646
>Also: "device not for use in residential areas due to EMI radiation" - does that mean I'm kinda fucked with this either way or can I get away with it as long as I don't bother neighbors TV watching?
means that your first project would be a faraday cage for that thingy, kek
But in a more serious note it probably means that the welding itself produces emi, which cannot be avoided.
Also not OP but if there is a shortcoming in anything would probably be in the included accessorizes I guess, not the base unit, which is what op said, you'll need to change the "stick" unit.
Still looks infinitelly better than the cheapo lidl one that my welder friend has. But he is a really cheap guy

[Anonymous No.2561675]

>>2561672
Thanks.
I guess the Penny one isn't much better then kek.
The main draw is that they're cheap.

The part about EMI is basic regulatory lip service then?
I guess as long as I don't decide to plop down next to some airstrip I'll be fine then hehe.

[Anonymous No.2561679]

>>2561672
>>2561675
And thanks for clearing up the part about the stick welder.
I didn't understand that he meant the stick holder rather than the base units ability to run it.

[Anonymous No.2561856]

>>2561679
well it would be better if op confirm that he means what i said, i am not an expert by any means

[Anonymous No.2562678]

>>2561856
Neither am I, my only point was stick welders aren't created equal (I've owned $200 stick welders and I've owned $3,000 stick welders)
In my experience the stick machines they include in those 3in1s are well below average. Almost like they don't really expect anyone to actually use them.
If he spent half the money on a semi - decent stick/tig box, or even all the money on an entry-level Mig he'd be better off imo. Better to have something that does one or two things properly than 1 thing that does everything shit
Anyway I slapped another video together, bit of an off topic but the job came up and I've seen people online argue about it
https://youtube.com/watch?v=b-AIqT3DBpQ&feature=share

[Anonymous No.2563324]

>>2562678
Thanks for your considerations.
I will think again about my priorities and maybe conclude I don't need all processes and buy the machine that offers mostly just the process I need.
It's appreciated anon, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2565426]

New video ;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvpQ9O7-Fmg

[Anonymous No.2565665]

is this the welding thread? nice.

I bought pic related, a helmet, gloves etc and tried welding a few days ago. I only had the rods it came with (bottom left corner of pic), the thinner ones were easier to get started but overall I didn't notice a difference. my welds looked shitty and I blew a hole a couple times as I expected but at least it was working. I was using a small 1/8" plate.
Today I got a box of 6011 rods and set everything up, and sat there tapping and sticking the electrode over and over for 5 minutes until it was charred halfway up, got a new stick and tried again, etc. For like 20 minutes I was sitting there completely unable to get a single fucking arc started where a couple days ago I wasn't having nearly as much trouble. I got an arc and ran a bead literally ONE fucking time. that single bead warped the plate pretty noticeably. after a few more tries I gave up and just put everything away.

I came back inside and read 6011 isn't a good beginner rod and 7018 or 7014 are easier to start and weld with. is this true? I read the manual for the welder and it doesn't say what types of rods it came with so I don't know which ones to buy. I didn't have nearly as much trouble. Also, I learned beginners should weld thicker stuff like 1/2" so I'll get some of that this week hopefully.

also, I wore an N95 mask under my helmet but could still smell smoke, how do I make sure I'm not breathing in cancer fumes? I'm not gonna shell out for a welding helmet with a built-in respirator.

[Anonymous No.2565668]

>>2565665
fwiw, when I was a completely new absolute beginner using a stick welder for the very first time, I had absolutely no trouble getting 6011 to start an arc.

I preferred the 'scratch-start' rather than the tap-and-go

[Anonymous No.2565683]

>>2565668
not sure what you want me to do with this information

[Anonymous No.2565687]

>>2565683
>6011 isn't a good beginner rod and 7018 or 7014 are easier to start and weld with. is this true?
try scratch starting the rod to establish an arc rather than tapping and sticking it. The problem isn't the 6011; it's your technique.

>how do I make sure I'm not breathing in cancer fumes? I'm not gonna shell out for a welding helmet
You can diy a PAPR setup with some cheap parts from ebay, or you can buy a chink one from aliexpress. Alternatively you could just hold your breath

[Anonymous No.2565688]

>>2565687
nigga I tried both. I could scratch start but it would go out after a half-second. obviously it's my technique, I don't HAVE ONE. I successfully got it started once and kept it going for a good while, and it kinda looked like weld when I finished.

it's 1/8" 6011 rod, on 1/8" plate. I was at about 110 amps. I ground off the old welds from my first attempt with a flapwheel and reused it, don't know if that would affect its weldability.

[Anonymous No.2565703]

>>2565688
110 amps on a 1/8 plate is a recipe for holes if you don't know what you're doing. I would start by getting thicker plate if you can.

Check through the manual to see if it has dig/arc force settings and/or hot start. Dig/arc force will help bump voltage to keep you from sticking when you've got a tight arc, which you'll need to keep from blowing holes. Hot start bumps the amperage a bit after the arc is struck, for the same reason as above.

Is your polarity set correctly? Your stinger should be connected to the positive terminal and the ground clamp to the negative, if you've got it reversed you'll have a helluva a time keeping the arc lit as a beginner.

[Anonymous No.2565725]

>>2565665
I use 7016s for pretty much everything. I'll sometimes use 7018s if I'm doing a big ugly plate or an I beam or I run out of 7016s.
I wouldn't worry too much about the toxins if you're not welding daily, and just working with mild steel. Obviously avoid breathing it but don't worry too much.

[Anonymous No.2566034]

>>2565725
getting a box of 701x this week and trying again. are certain diameters easier for beginner to weld with?

[Anonymous No.2566041]

>>2566034
If I had to take one packet of rods to a desert island it'd be a box of 2.5mm 7016s

[Anonymous No.2566053]

>>2566041
and these 7016s are good for structural welds? the whole reason I got into welding is I want to make tube frames for go-karts and such, and larger frames for machinery like a hydraulic press brake. my local hardware store only has 7018, will I see a big difference?

I'm super confused on sticks anyways, like I know what the numbers mean because I watched an "intro video", but the welds they demonstrated literally looked identical, and when I read what each one is used for, they all said basically the same thing.

[Anonymous No.2566108]

>>2566053
7018 is the same as 7016 except it freezes a little slower and deposits more metal. If you're running a rod out of position 7016 should be a tad easier to run but not a huge difference.

[Anonymous No.2566222]

>>2566108
Yeah this is bang on. The 7016s are ~definitely~ more forgiving of weird positions, and I've found them a lot more resistant to dirt, galv, paint etc.
>>2566053
I'd push to get some 7016s, especially if you're doing tube work, tube is weird position city.

[Anonymous No.2566283]

>>2566222
well I'm not doing tube work yet, I don't even have a motor for my first kart. I'm just gonna be making straight lines on a 1/2" plate for a few weekends until I've got it down.
since you're planning on educating new welders, what are your ideas for a "progression" system so I can continue developing as a welder? once I can run a straight clean bead, what do I start learning next? thinner plate, different positions, funky angles?

also, how do I test my welds for strength and penetration? is the only way to cut the weld in half and take a look? I'd hate to think I'm doing it right, go to weld a kart frame, and have it come apart mid-ride.

[Anonymous No.2566301]

>>2566041
>If I had to take one packet of rods to a desert island it'd be a box of 2.5mm 7016s

And if I were choose a rod for the same scenario it'd be 1/8" 6011.

I have never used 7016, but I hate how gummy 7018 seems... I did some 7018 cap welds over a 6011 root today. First time I've run any 7018 in a while. This was my first pass of 7018 over my 6011 root and I did a kinda wide weave. I started running stringers after that and it worked much better... I didn't stop and take any pics of the others though until I had em all cleaned up and ready for paint.

[Anonymous No.2566307]

After cleaning them up and getting them ready for paint. I added the 1-1/2" square bar as gussets to each one. The one on the left has a gusset on both sides. They are brackets for my Brillion mulcher and would eventually bend if you turned too sharp and drug the rollers sideways. I straightened them back out and put that beefy gusset in there hoping it will keep that from happening any more. Still have 3 more brackets to do for the back rollers.

[Anonymous No.2566314]

>>2566222
idk what the standards are there in Kiwiland but here in the US most pipe work has a 6010 root and 7018 fill/cap. The exception being cross country which is 7010 or 8010 all the way out.

Bottom line is that 7018 is rated for, and works well, in all positions. It might be a little more tricky than 7016, but it makes up for that by being able to put down that much more metal.

[Anonymous No.2566377]

>>2566314
7018 is known here as PH77. It's what my daddy welded everything with. He did his apprenticeship with those rods. 16TC or 7016 came out 10 or 15 years into his career and has slowly replaced it. I've only managed to get him to use them in the last 4 or 5 years.

[Anonymous No.2566393]

>>2566377
What is that thing in your picture?
Why is there fat metal plates inside the corner of the tube?

[Anonymous No.2566544]

>>2566393
>What is that thing in your picture?
>Why is there fat metal plates inside the corner of the tube?

The answer.

>>2548249

[Anonymous No.2566846]

>>2535453
We stick weld constantly at my work. Moving gas around safely in an enclosed space for hot work doesn't fly in an active production environment so we have a stick welder for portable work.

[Anonymous No.2566932]

>>2566846
Instant filler metal swapout and deeper reach less awkward than a MIG gun is nice too.