/3dpg/

[Anonymous No.2517269]

Beware of counterfeits edition
Last Thread: >>2514198

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 2022-11-19]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Bambu Labs X1
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own Voron, Rat Rig, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://printables.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional parametric CAD programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, TinkerCAD, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do mesh free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.

[Anonymous No.2517376]

>>2517269
the other one has a soulful pic but this one at least has working links

[Anonymous No.2517459]

>>2517269
after all...why shouldn't I?

[Anonymous No.2517463]

>>2517459
>print in mid air
good luck

[Anonymous No.2517496]

>>2517463
the power of cute and funny will make it happen

[Anonymous No.2517538]

I bought a phrozen 8k mighty. Did i fuck up?

[Anonymous No.2517540]

>>2517538
What did you get it for? Most LCD sla printers from chinkland are all pretty much the same printer

[Anonymous No.2517552]

>>2517538
If you want to print miniatures and anime figurines, you didn't.

[Anonymous No.2517554]

How do I fix the outer walls not adhering?

[Anonymous No.2517556]

>>2517554
print hotter

[Anonymous No.2517560]

>>2517538
>not getting the mega

[Anonymous No.2517596]

>>2517554
Check e-steps, I was getting that after I upgraded to a different extruder without changing e-steps. But I was also getting really weak prints with obvious underextrusion in other parts, so if you don't see that it may be something else.

[Anonymous No.2517680]

Anyone have a huge printer? Looking at either the Kobra Max from Anycubic or that one massive Creality one.

[Anonymous No.2517725]

>>2517680
I have a CR10s that I use, but frankly I've been looking at a 100mm cube printer for a while. Most of the thing I print are low, close to the bed, and fit within that volume. Plastic is just not the material for large items.

[Anonymous No.2517925]

Why are there 2 3DPGs? Which one is for Prusachads?

[Anonymous No.2517941]

>>2517463
>print in mid air

>almost 2023
>not unscrewing your hotend, turning it around 360 degrees and then running the gcode in reverse
>ishygddt

>>2517680
I will consider a pellet extruder, but not buying a printer above 350mm.

[Anonymous No.2517950]

>>2517941
>what is basic geometry
You need to be 18 to post here.

[Anonymous No.2518173]

anyone else have a Sovol SV01 Pro? The print bed it comes with is dogshit, but even if you buy the "official" spring steel plate it's nearly impossible to remove anything from the surface. Like what the fuck did they make this shit out of?

[Anonymous No.2518263]

>>2518173
I've got the old school sv01 with a textured glass bed
I have the absolute hardest time with bed adhesion, so irritatingly so that I have a BL touch coming in tomorrow so I can rule out leveling as a factor for this shit

Sometimes it seems like it underextrudes for parts of first layer. Using overture pla and petg and somethings giving me hell.

[Anonymous No.2518265]

>>2518173
I guess to your question, lol, if you do get a metal or the glass bed and you can't get stuff out, let it cool to room temp and then stick it in your refrigerator, but do let it naturally get to room temp first so you don't warp metal or Crack glass

[Anonymous No.2518291]

Printed these on my Photon Mono 4K.

[Anonymous No.2518292]

>>2518291

[Anonymous No.2518295]

I know PLA is bad for things like car parts because of it's poor heat resistance. But how about PLA+ (specifically esun or sunlu)?

[Anonymous No.2518314]

>>2518295
You parts will be a little bit less stiff before they melt.

[Anonymous No.2518442]

>>2518295
Just use PETG. Better yet, use PLA and post here what happens, then use PETG.
>car parts
You can't print car parts, only cell phone holders and stuff.
>>2517950
>basic geometry
Some of the worst math skills is found in the 70+ demographic.

[Anonymous No.2518464]

>>2517950
It would have been a shitpost, alluding to "turn 360° and walk away". Plus the fact that running g-code in reverse is comically stupid to even the most casual of observers, he's implying that you'd be starting the print from the top layer and only connecting it to the build plate at the very end.

>>2518442
Didn't Project Binky make 3D-printed wheel arches?

[Anonymous No.2518474]

>>2518295
PLA+ will behave exactly the same as PLA in hot environments. It will droop and melt.
PETG is better, but in the summer, anything that bears weight or pressure will eventually sag.

ABS is the filament of choice and also what the majority of a car's interior plastics are made of.

[Anonymous No.2518492]

>had to pay $90 combined in import duties and foreign transaction fees for my mk3
I feel as though I have been played.

[Anonymous No.2518496]

ender 3 with bltouch + skr mini e3 v3

my printer literally worked just fine until today - the probe z offset adjustment from the LCD stopped working.

WTF is causing this? literally nothing was changed

[Anonymous No.2518527]

>>2518496
Are you saving to eeprom after you you set the z offset?

[Anonymous No.2518528]

>>2518527
no it's not that it's not saving the value i input

what it does is it does not respond to the input value AT ALL. it's like it isn't there

and this just happened. a few days ago it was working just fine.

[Anonymous No.2518535]

>>2518527
>saving to eeprom
is that even a thing? my recalibrated extruder esteps are saved on my sd card, can i save them on the printer instead?

also common calibration cubes should have steps on them, so you can measure what's caused by improper scale using the step measuring mode of callipers (fix with xyz esteps), and what's caused by overextrusion using the outside-diameter mode of callipers.

[Anonymous No.2518582]

Good enough for government work. Now I can get programming, probably.

[Anonymous No.2518955]

Check this out.

[Anonymous No.2518960]

Bought myself a KP3S Pro with Y-rail upgrade and PEI sheet for 200€.
#noragrets

Now collectiong parts for a heated champer, active charcoal filtering (exhaust going back in to the champer) and an actuator that kicks the printed parts from the build plate into a bucket.

Gonna build my empire on this ABS semen demon.

[Anonymous No.2518972]

>>2518960
200? Where at? I keep seeing it be for 250 at least.

Kingroon is coming out with kp3s pro S1 which is basically pro with Y linear rails already installed.

[Anonymous No.2518975]

>>2518972
btw I meant 250USD, 200 euros is roughly 210 USD.

[Anonymous No.2519046]

>>2518955
Check this out.

https://www.theregister.com/2022/12/09/rpi_maker_in_residence_police/

[Anonymous No.2519089]

>>2518535
Yes. M500
https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/eeprom.html

>>2518295
PLA+ won't matter vs PLA for heat resistance. Either would be fine up to at least 230F after annealing. HTPLA will warp at least 5x less during the anneal. Just slowly ramp up the heat in hot water during the anneal, bonus if you pack in sand or plaster prior. It won't melt when hot but it will get softer, kinda like when you steam wood so you can bend it.

>>2518263
superslicer/prusaslicer IIRC should do like 120% flow on the first layer. Just keep your plate clean with alcohol before every print. Some prints are just hard to get good adhesion and need a brim. If your cooling is shit you'll end up with curling which will snag the nozzle.

[Anonymous No.2519244]

>>2518972
I ordered it at their Homepage last night, first it showed a higher price as well, but then in the checkout it was cheaper.
https://kingroon.com/products/official-kingroon-kp3s-pro-3d-printer?variant=43387273707738
Good luck, bud.

[Anonymous No.2519246]

>>2518535
>>2519089
Creality boards don't always save to eeprom correctly, it's always worse checking.

[Anonymous No.2519348]

Wow. Pictures really don't do this stuff justice.
Threw it back in the cure because it's still a little soft. Also have ordered a flex plate because I had to chisel it off the damn plate.
Standing over a bucket of water is much nicer than a bucket of IPA.

Time to learn Lychee.

[Anonymous No.2519497]

>>2518295
>>2518442
>Better yet, use PLA and post here what happens
I've got some GPS mounts suffering under the Colorado sun. The first was an trussed mount in black PETG that deformed significantly. I remade it with solid form white PETG and that's stood up for some months.

In my other vehicle I have some green PLA+. I was prototyping with it and figured I'd do exactly that- see what happens and then replace with white PETG. It's not full summer but it is stored outside. I'll be sure to report back in July when it's a puddle on the dash.

The real problem with PLA+ I think is that the + means something random to each manufacturer. You can't just grab + or PLA2 and expect it to be the same as another roll.

[Anonymous No.2519498]

>>2519348
someday I'll own a sink.

[Anonymous No.2519560]

Are there any hi res models of Pokemon feet? And can a SLA printed foot handle aggressive use or should I get an FDM. I figure FDM is faster anyway so if I destroyed it I could make another in less time

[Anonymous No.2519576]

>>2519560
If this isn't a shitpost, then there are certain toughening agents you can introduce to SLA resin. Makes it a lot less brittle, and somewhat pliable. Not food-safe though.
Personally I'd go for silicone cast into a mould.

[Anonymous No.2519681]

>>2519560
what are you doing with pokemon feet
like
If you needed life-size footprints then you can print it solid and resin will be pretty strong but jesus you're just better off FDM for that.

[Anonymous No.2519729]

What do your printer caves look like?
Currently trying to calibrate that piece of shit Ender 5 but it's refusing to make anything good. At the beginning it was just the infill that was garbage, but now that I've been fiddling with settings in Cura the walls and roofs are also garbage.

[Anonymous No.2519783]

>>2519560
i appreciate how in-depth this man went

[Anonymous No.2519787]

>>2519348
>Also have ordered a flex plate because I had to chisel it off the damn plate
I soak the plate with the entire print in a big mixing bowl of warm water and then just use one of those basic metal scrapers that came with your printer and it comes off easily. I also soak the prints in warm water for a couple of minutes so the supports come off extremely easily and don't leave marks as often.

[Anonymous No.2519892]

>>2519787
good advice. I just got done taking supports off a print and it kinda looks bad under there. Nowhere near as bad as underside-of-a-sphere-on-FDM, but definitely not SLA quality I expected. Coat of paint will fix that up though.
Also snapped parts off when removing supports.

[Anonymous No.2519898]

Hey there 3DPG! I just got my printer back up and running (thermal runaway fix) and got this Valkyrie model done. I’m pretty happy with how it went! Needed a couple of tries to get the support in order, and it’s printed in a few pieces, but that’s ok!

[Anonymous No.2519901]

>>2519898
Of course, that’s not why we’re really here :)
Happy holidays friends :)

[Anonymous No.2519928]

>>2519898
huh. that looks really good for an fdm
tho white filaments tend to hide details in photos

[Anonymous No.2519931]

>>2519928
There’s a lot of messiness around the edges but I spent some time cleaning up the lines. Still far from perfect but good enough

[Anonymous No.2519972]

>>2519729
I don't fucking have one yet and am super envious of that setup.

I had to relocate for work and currently have some shelving and a lot of toolboxes and whatnot for all of my equipment but very limited work surfaces, so I have to constantly move things around if I want space to cook, work on engineering projects, and 3D print.

I'm hunting for a more spacious place daily lately.

[Anonymous No.2519975]

Im gonna take the TAPE the PRINT down to the board when it gets big enough pill

[Anonymous No.2519984]

>>2519972
Apart from the printers my setup is actually pretty cheap. The chair and desks are my old IKEA office furniture, the huge computer monitor is actually a 43" 4k TV, and the shelves were discounted at ~$30. The shelves are a pain to set up, but once they're up and you don't need to move them they're great. The tool board is an IKEA Skådis, it's pretty easy to CAD tool holders for it and Thingiverse has a bunch of holders other people have made for it. The computer is my NAS, it also runs the Octoprint for the Ender. I also use it for CAD and slicing. The CR-30 has a Raspberry Pi Octoprint taped to the back of the screen.

Before I bought this house I lived in a tiny student apartment, so I know the pain of not having any room. Now that I have a huge basement, it's like DIY paradise. The printer room is actually my small second workshop, next door to this is the sauna and to the other side of that is my garage, where I have a huge work table with things like vices, a small hydraulic press/metal bender, and some other power tools.

[Anonymous No.2520007]

Alright, to make sure I'm reading this right, does this look like 4-5mm retraction @ ~195-205°C works best for this filament? Like I should dial in 4.5mm retraction and 200°C? Did I miss an important setting or anything? I left everything else constant, including extrusion amount, etc.

Also, why did I get so much more stringing on the left pair of spikes on the retraction test?

[Anonymous No.2520018]

>>2519901
Paint it first anon

[Anonymous No.2520042]

>>2520007
retraction should be the length of the melt zone of your hotend

what plastic was that? I'm assuming PLA. did you adjust your cooling fan speeds? did you use a heated bed?

[Anonymous No.2520053]

>>2520042
PLA. Silk Gold by Inland.
Fan speeds left to default.
Stock Ender 3 Pro heated bed @ 60°C.

Just tried to print something and got a ton of clicking/knocking/popping and slugging nozzle flow, and my nozzle has been outputting curly filament since I replaced the nozzle and bowden tube, so I think something is fucky. Trying to figure out how to cold pull now because my nozzles are coming out with gunk in their threads.

Too bad 99% of motherfuckers that mention cold pulling are so fucking stupid that they leave 50% of the steps out.

Oh, and I just confirmed my extruder is is under-extruding by about 4%. I have no clue if that's enough to cause any problems yet, but I'm not looking forward to sifting through 20 fucking articles and 5 youtube videos to figure out if it is and how to fix it.

[Anonymous No.2520084]

>>2520053
>>2520007
Jesus Christ.
I couldn't get it to work at the print temps for the gold or the white PLA, so, on a gut instinct, I dialed it up to 220, which is the temp for the shitty Protopasta filament that fucked me over a week ago.

Lo and behold, some sparkly purple Protopasta bullshit came out at 220°C!

I am now taking recommendations for heat block and heat break upgrades for the Ender 3 Pro because even though I got the filament pulls coming out clean, I suspect there's still gunk in there from the Protopasta blasphemy.

[Anonymous No.2520092]

Just got an ender 5 s1, coming from a modded ender 3, and this is the best bed leveling I've ever had.
Even though I like tinkering, which is why I was modding the ender 3, I think having this good of a starting point will get me back into liking 3d printing again.

[Anonymous No.2520097]

>start a 20 hour print
>6 hours in i realise the past hour of printing has been a waste because the filament broke off in the extruder
a toast! to chinese products!

[Anonymous No.2520102]

>>2519972
Printer atop the fridge

[Anonymous No.2520111]

>ender 3 stock hotend except drop in all metal heatbreak
why am i having so much extruder skip at tame speeds? trying to do pla at 230* i end up with a ton of skipping and under extrusion even at just 25 mm/s across the board. it seems to be much worse during small rapid moves like for text, it doesnt seem to do it much if at all doing walls and floors and infill. even bumping up the temp all the way to 260+ doesn't make a difference. i also dont remember it doing this near as much before i installed the heatbreak, is this normal? how can i fix it?

[Anonymous No.2520119]

>>2520092
>Even though I like tinkering, which is why I was modding the ender 3, I think having this good of a starting point will get me back into liking 3d printing again.
this is an important thing people forget when recommending Shitder 3's.
Remember precisely why you bought a 3d printer.
It was to print things and do projects with those things.
Not to work on a printer.

[Anonymous No.2520121]

>>2519975
can't fault this logic

[Anonymous No.2520126]

>>2520111
There's a clog somewhere. There should be no skipping at those speeds.

I had the exact same issue before. It would sort of extrude, but there was obviously something plugging shit up. I personally had to take the hotend apart to make sure I got rid of the clog.

[Anonymous No.2520136]

>>2520119
>Shitder 3's.

[Anonymous No.2520138]

>>2520084
Yeah, fuck this chinese piece of trash.
It's fucking clogged again.

>cleaned it out thoroughly
>trimmed capricorn tube
>replaced pneumatic connectors
>replaced nozzle
>calibrated e-step
>calibrated bed level
>manually leveled the bed the old fashioned way on top of using the probe
>do a little 9-minute test print
>IT SHITS THE FUCKING BED

There should be international sanctions on china for how shitty every single last product that comes out of there is.

[Anonymous No.2520142]

unironically why is the ender 3 even a recommendation in the OP?
it should be under its own category of
>build it yourself 3d printer

[Anonymous No.2520144]

>>2520142
No shit.
I got it for $99 but the cost to replace its shitty components and repair it when it fails has already more than doubled that.

>gotta replace the shitty default board otherwise it runs the fucking motors at 80dB of noise because Creality can't program drivers worth a shit
>gotta replace the stock bowden tube because it'll melt in your hot end eventually
>gotta replace the stock extruder because it's made of plastic and will crack within 100 prints
>gotta buy nozzle replacements because the above problems WILL destroy several nozzles
>gotta buy pneumatic connectors replacements because the default bowden tube WILL destroy the connectors that come stock
>probably gotta replace the bed
>gotta add a Z-probe to get self-leveling but it sucks so don't bother
>gotta invest in octo-print and either a Raspberry Pi or something else to get most modern connectivity features and controls

And that's not even touching on the time and filament you'll waste fixing the piece of trash.

Unless you're a masochist, there is no reason not to save up for a $300+ printer from a better company.

[Anonymous No.2520145]

>>2520138

[Anonymous No.2520148]

>>2520138
>>2520144
>tfw you get a massive kek out of reading these posts
>then you remember that you also have an ender 3 as your only printer

[Anonymous No.2520153]

How do I stop my raspberry pi from getting stuck on the "initializing" loading screen all the time? I'm running Mainsail/Klipper, and this shit happens all the time, and with multiple devices trying to get at it through Moonraker.

[Anonymous No.2520159]

>>2520153
Most likely the Pi has a weak connection to your router.

[Anonymous No.2520163]

EUsisters..wagmi

[Anonymous No.2520172]

>>2520159
Fock... so do I look for a guide on how to generally switch a pi over to a different network (5.8g -> 2.4g), or is that something I need to look into MainsailOS for?

[Anonymous No.2520178]

>>2520159
>>2520172
Found this, lets see if it works! https://github.com/mainsail-crew/sonar

[Anonymous No.2520179]

>>2520172
Plug it in via network cable???

[Anonymous No.2520180]

>>2520179
No, I don't want to do that, already too many cables with the AC one.

[Anonymous No.2520183]

>>2520172
You can’t change the wifi network by Mainsail. Change it by going to the boot partition and editing wpa_supplicant.conf with the new network credentials.

[Anonymous No.2520184]

>>2520183
Ok, that's a huge head start, thanks! I'll have to mess with it tomorrow because I just dosed some melatonin (don't tell BLM). The Sonar daemon was DOA as far as I could see.

[Anonymous No.2520187]

Should I get a Kobra max? I want to make cosplay bullshit and also plan on getting a smaller printer for bits a baubles, toys etc.

[Anonymous No.2520197]

>>2520184
>he didnt fill his extrusions with lead

[Anonymous No.2520210]

>>2518582
What this be?

[Anonymous No.2520213]

>>2520184
>>2520197
you're supposed to mix sand with epoxy

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epoxy_granite

[Anonymous No.2520215]

>>2520210
The repaired vent grille from last thread. Visible in the OP pic, bottom centre.

Project is a soldering reflow plate, using a custom circuit board I can use for any microcontroller-controlled phase-fired dimmer. I'm working on the code at the moment, main switching element seems to function, but I can't get the serial comms to receive or transmit anything. I'll take it apart tomorrow and probe before the UART optocouplers.

[Anonymous No.2520252]

Australian here, are there any particular stores/online shops I should be looking at for my first 3D printer?

[Anonymous No.2520255]

>>2520252
do not buy an ender 3

[Anonymous No.2520258]

>>2520252
aliexpress

>>2520255
listen to this guy, get an ender 3 V2

[Anonymous No.2520263]

>>2520258
>>2520255
I was thinking more along the lines of the Creality CR-10, my budget isn't total poorfag tier.
>aliexpress
I'd it to arrive within a couple of weeks, not a couple of months.

[Anonymous No.2520266]

>>2520263
>I'd it to arrive within a couple of weeks, not a couple of months.
ali ships from Australia for popular things like that

[Anonymous No.2520267]

>>2520263
>my budget isn't total poorfag tier
y-you delete that right now

[Anonymous No.2520271]

>>2520263
get a ender 5 or 6 then. Bedslinging is a poorfag design.

[Anonymous No.2520278]

>>2520271
>Bedslinging
I don't know much about 3D printers desu, what's the difference between the bed types on the CR-10 and the Ender 5/6?

[Anonymous No.2520293]

>>2520252
ender 3 pro from aliexpress. job jobbed

[Anonymous No.2520341]

>>2520278
The ender 5 is coreXY, where the X and Y is at the print head, and the bed only moves in Z, allowing you to print faster, and with larger and more delicate part geometry. It's still an Ender though, with a lot of the usual shitbox problems, some guy here REEEE'd out and smashed his it was so bad. At that price, you're probably better off just getting a Prusa and settling for a smaller and nicer bedslinger.

[Anonymous No.2520366]

>>2520293
>ender 3 pro from aliexpress
make sure its delivered by a slave worker living on 20 cents an hour so it can match the quality of the printer

[Anonymous No.2520381]

How do i get a free fusion 360 license?

[Anonymous No.2520386]

>>2520148
>>2520145
I have another thing to add to the list!
>>2520144
>when you drop a screw while working on the Shitter 3 Pro, the stupid fucking channels in the frame catch them and funnel them INTO THE FUCKING FRAME
>THE FRAME IS FUCKING COVERED IN BUILT-IN SCREW-CATCHES THAT PULL DROPPED SCREWS INTO THE GODDAMN BODY OF THE MACHINE
>YOU HAVE TO UNSCREW PARTS OF THE FRAME TO GET THE FUCKING SCREWS BACK OUT

[Anonymous No.2520401]

this nigga printin in mid air
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0yo-o47688

[Anonymous No.2520402]

>>2520381
https://www.autodesk.co.uk/products/fusion-360/personal

[Anonymous No.2520445]

>>2520258
>ender 3 V2
It has a touchscreen though. In my experience touchscreens are always worse than just the basic blue LCD with the little wheel, because the touch sensor sucks and the firmware is really limited compared to the Marlin you can run on the older style printers. For example on my Ender 3 with ABL I can start a print from my computer and then tune the z offset up or down while it lays out the skirt before starting the first layer, to make sure I get perfect adhesion. On my Ender 5, I have to start a print, cancel, adjust the z offset in increments of 0.1 (which is asinine because for perfect adhesion and quality without elephant's foot you want to be within 0.02 of the correct height), and if I need to tune it more I have to start and stop the print again. Based on the picture it doesn't even look like they've added a second print cooling fan, it's still just blowing from one direction, it just has an ugly plastic cover over the print head instead of the plain black metal one on the old Ender. The only actual improvement I can see is that it actually comes with a glass bed now instead of just the glued on buildtak clone that wears out after five prints, but knowing Creality that glass is curvier than that maker slut they hired to promote the CR-30.

[Anonymous No.2520493]

>>2520401
I love how people are figuring out new ways to slice and generate new kinds of toolpath using the same old XYZ equipment, and not just going with the retarded cousin of adding a fourth axis. See also: the retarded cousin of fourth axis extruding.

[Anonymous No.2520500]

>>2520252
>>2520263
Jaycar sell the CRX Pro. For the usual Jaycar markup.

[Anonymous No.2520515]

>>2520493
Slicers are the main reason we don't have 4 or 5 axis printers, they would have to make sure you aren't smashing your gantry or toolhead into anything.

[Anonymous No.2520526]

>>2520445
>mfw my printer doesn't even have a screen and I just use octoprint

[Anonymous No.2520536]

>>2520500
You gotta be fucking kidding me on that price. No hulk real either!

[Anonymous No.2520537]

>>2520536
*Bulk

[Anonymous No.2520555]

>>2520121
it didnt work

[Anonymous No.2520563]

>>2520445
>Add relation
>Equal
>Select head
>Select breast
>Select breast
>Ok

[Anonymous No.2520624]

>>2520119
Jeez people on reddit always bragged about tinkering with their ender 3 because they are too fucking dumb to actually print with it, and act disgusted if you're competent and can actually print with your ender 3.

[Anonymous No.2520633]

>>2520536
So basically you're paying the same as an Ender 5 Plus, and getting an upsized Ender 3? Pass.

I'm actually pretty happy with my Ender 5, if you're looking for something in that size range. It's still technically a cartesian printer, but it actually does high speed moves pretty well. Turns out the issues I've been having were just the stock nozzle wearing out, apparently my favourite PLA is extremely abrasive even though neither the box nor the reviews mention it.

[Anonymous No.2520654]

>printer is called “enter”
>logo is a dragon
is this a minecraft thing?

[Anonymous No.2520663]

>hairspray not sticking
>check back
>mfw
>nonstick hairspray

[Anonymous No.2520664]

>>2520654
minceraft

[Anonymous No.2520682]

>>2520183
Found it, but it looks like I'm already on the 2.4g network in my house. looks like I'm at the mercy of the Mainsail devs on this one! They'll probably figure it out eventually.

[Anonymous No.2520699]

>>2520682
Update: I got the Sonar daemon to work, turns out that when the instruction say to install through Putty, they actually mean it. You cannot just copy and paste the updater stuff into the mainsail.conf and have it work.

[Anonymous No.2520707]

>>2520341
>>2520536
I'd say my budget is around AU$1000, not including whatever accessories and filaments I might need. Might be able to go a bit higher if it's really worth it though. The markup on consumer electronics in Australia is fucking gay.

[Anonymous No.2520709]

>>2520145
>someone actually used my troll pic
I'm so fucking happy rn

[Anonymous No.2520715]

>>2520252
>>2520707
>AU$1000
Prusa mini, if you want to print vs tinkering with your printer. Including shipping and a few parts it will still be under $1000 which means you dont have to pay gay customs fees.
>but muh creality
If you want to tinker with your printer vs actually printing, sure. Otherwise see
>>2520386
>>2520138
>>2520144

[Anonymous No.2520720]

>>2520715
>>2520707
Prusa mini also has an integrated web interface now, if it works it should save you a raspberry pi. I havent tried with mine yet, kept forgetting.

Forgot to say, parts you might want are the textured bed (for PETG), hotend PTFE, maybe a 0.6mm nozzle. Also get maybe 1-2 spools of prusament as reference filament, then order the rest from cubictech (esun) or whatever your local suppliers are. There's some aussie-based manufacturers but I havent tried them.

>t. ausfag

[Anonymous No.2520738]

>>2520536
Shoulda been at the warehouse sale they had half a year ago, they were getting rid of all the old CRX models (i.e. not pro) for a hundred or two dollars each. My co-workers (at Jaycar) all drove up to the warehouse and bought two pallets full of 3D printers. For themselves, not to sell.

[Anonymous No.2520748]

>>2520663
lmao

[Anonymous No.2520762]

>>2520663
Mine is "extra heavy duty". The canister is bright pink.
Works like a charm.

[Anonymous No.2520765]

>>2520715
Cheapo Ender 3 user here. I don't know what those tards are doing, my printer just werks, and it has just werked for over five years. Yeah I've bought new nozzles and a magnetic spring steel PEI bed for it, but apart from that it's stock. I'm pretty sure Enders only have a reputation for being shit because the first things tards do when they get them is "upgrade" them with trash from thingiverse and reddit.

[Anonymous No.2520766]

>>2520663
Apply for a job at Creality. They'll hire you in seconds.

[Anonymous No.2520773]

>>2520766
>prusa shills coping with the fact that they overpaid for a garbage plastic printer when they could have gotten a based aluminium extrusion printer from a people with an average IQ of 110 for less than half the price

[Anonymous No.2520774]

>>2520715
>If you want to tinker with your printer vs actually printing, sure. Otherwise see
You're laughing now but it's over for this bitch!
After I make these swaps the only stock parts on this thing will be the display, the frame, and the fucking bed. I will bend this abomination to my will. It's a question of "when", not "if".

>>2520765
Mine worked great stock for a few months.
Then the bowden tube started to go and several people I consulted said it might also be the plastic extruder parts wearing out, so I swapped out the stock bowden tube for a capricorn and replaced the plastic extruder with a metal one and things have been fucky ever since.
A dozen attempted fixed later and it's still giving me problems.
My current bet is that I damaged the heat block at some point, or my nozzles have been too shitty. We'll find out shortly.

[Anonymous No.2520776]

>>2520762
some anon on here a few days ago was posting a purple can

could you post yours though?

[Anonymous No.2520781]

>>2520445
>It has a touchscreen though.
I'm not reading all that, 3 V2 doesn't have a touch screen. Not mine at least.

[Anonymous No.2520785]

What's the best program to take a .stl, fill in some holes, and cut some dimensioned holes in it?

[Anonymous No.2520790]

>>2520563
>add dimension
>select butt
>0
>OK

[Anonymous No.2520791]

>>2520715
>>2520720
I already have a raspberry pi, so that will actually let me use it for something which is nice.
I'll definitely look into the Prusa, I'm sick of buying cheap shit and having to fuck with it to make it work.

[Anonymous No.2520796]

>>2520785
OpenSCAD

[Anonymous No.2520814]

>>2520773
>from a people with an average IQ of 110
what does that have to do with creality

[Anonymous No.2520845]

Have any anons here had success with a reprap build?

[Anonymous No.2520846]

>>2520773
Prusa? That's rookie shit. We only tell people to buy those so these threads don't get murdered by marlin questions and how-to's about trimming the melted portion of PTFE tubes.

[Anonymous No.2520874]

>>2517269
Have any of you tried out Creality's laser? Really want to try out laser cutting but don't want to get an entire new machine and I have an Ender 3 I could put it on.
Or have you tried any laser at all? I see some "10W" (dual 5W) on Ali but I see Sainsmart also has one. 10W doesn't seem like a lot of power but I don't really know much about lasers.

[Anonymous No.2520882]

>>2520874
Bought the creality 0.5W laser. The power is definitely lacking, but even then if it had decent focus it would still be usable for what I want (burning away thin etch-resistant coatings). But my laser does not have decent focus, getting the beam small enough to really ablate coatings is a tricky task, but charring wood is definitely doable. I may have to 3D print a lens-holder with more degrees of freedom, or just go for a fibre-coupled laser or Nd:YAG. A more expensive laser like that 1.6W may well be higher quality.

10W is a fair bit for engraving, and it will easily burn away thin coatings like aluminium anodising, paint, PCB solder mask, etc.

Watch out though, the third party software availability for turning a 3D printer into a laser is kinda shit. Lightburn is almost certainly the way to go, but it's not FOSS. Creality have their own (windows only) software. I've tried a web-tool, which has major errors and doesn't raster, and an addon for inkscape, which has major scale issues and doesn't raster. In my case I want vector outlines AND rastered insides, I hope lightburn can do so. There's a free trial that I'll get around to using one of these days.

[Anonymous No.2520993]

>>2520774
You guys are never going to believe this, but it turns out that nozzles that come in packs of 25 for $8 are SHIT.

I didn't even use the fancy nozzle. Just using a Creality nozzle seems to have fixed everything. So they at least get props for making a decent nozzle.

[Anonymous No.2520996]

>>2520993
But does anyone know what would cause this warping?
Heat too high? Bed subtly warped at that location?

[Anonymous No.2521012]

3d printed myself a chastity cage that has a rod which extends down my urethra. Well the rod broke off and I can no longer remove it or piss. I need ideas for something I could print that could be used to remove it

[Anonymous No.2521022]

>>2519901
>>2519898
she deserves this fate

[Anonymous No.2521038]

>>2521012

3d print an insurance card before your dick goes gangrene

[Anonymous No.2521044]

why haven't you taken the resinpill, anon?
It's more accessible than ever

[Anonymous No.2521054]

>>2521044
Because I'm not a cum guzzling faggot

[Anonymous No.2521057]

>>2520996
Clean bed with dish soap and hot water.

[Anonymous No.2521069]

>>2521054
say again?

[Anonymous No.2521071]

>>2520776

[Anonymous No.2521118]

Need some input about more exotic filament colors.
I need to buy some pastel color PLAs for a couple of prints, but my cheap reliable brand doesnt carry them.
Which brands (available on Amazon if possible) would you recommend?
I'm not gonna use it super often. 1kg will go a long ways, so Id rather buy something good than cheap.

[Anonymous No.2521121]

>>2520785
Blender

>>2520796
Can that even import STL?

[Anonymous No.2521126]

>>2521044
no sink

[Anonymous No.2521138]

>>2521118
If you're in the US there's paramount is the go-to for specific colored filament.

[Anonymous No.2521142]

>>2520785
fusion 360 shitloads of vram/ram, and time.

[Anonymous No.2521154]

>>2520996
Isn't that rippling from vibrations in the carriage as it moves diagonally?

>>2521121
Yes. Tested just now.

[Anonymous No.2521235]

[Anonymous No.2521244]

>>2517269
Anyone ever tried to print a pocket pussy in tpu?

[Anonymous No.2521246]

>>2521244
nigga are you tryna get dickrot

[Anonymous No.2521250]

>>2521244
It wouldn't be flexable enough to bend for your dick

better chance is to just print a bust of what you want the inside of your pocket pussy to look and feel like then molding it.

[Anonymous No.2521252]

>>2521235
ABS is what packagers use to sell stuff like bread in the store

Microplastics are everywhere anyways

[Anonymous No.2521291]

>>2521252
that's LDPE

[Anonymous No.2521351]

>>2521291
incel

[Anonymous No.2521362]

>>2520882
I was thinking of just using some pathing tool like Carbide Create or something similar to figure out the tool path for the laser. Although I'm not sure how well that would work. I have a Sainsmart 3018 CNC which isn't a terrible machine but it feels like the Ender 3 (or worse) of desktop CNC machines. But I'm able to make toolpaths and send it to the machine, I think it runs GRBL though and on my printer I use Klipper. I only said to use a laser with my 3D printer because I have many hours on that but I've only put maybe 5 or so with my """""CNC""""" machine because it's not great for what I wanted to do, which is actually machine/engrave metal not carve wood or other soft materials.
I'll probably get a laser with at least air assist because it seems like a good idea that should be standard.
>pic related genmitsu 10w laser with and without air assist

[Anonymous No.2521372]

>>2521362
Why does air assist reduce the effective spot size? Smoke getting in the way of the beam? I should rig a fan and ducts to assist my setup then.

[Anonymous No.2521385]

>>2521372
I'm not a laser guy, but probably because the heat is getting blown away from the spot instead of smoldering around the edges.

[Anonymous No.2521433]

So I have been having this weird problem with my Ender 3v2 where randomly the body of the printer comes lose. Sometimes its the bed of the printer, some times its the hot end/x axis caddy and today and the x axis came lose from one end. Why the fuck does this keep happening ? I print 10-11 hour prints a day and this shit has had me tramming my bed after fixing these issues every single day. What do ?

[Anonymous No.2521437]

>>2521057
This actually helped a lot, anon. Thank you.
I'd been doing the occasional alcohol wipe and figured that was adequate, but I guess I was wrong.

[Anonymous No.2521438]

>>2521437
do you take the glass off and clean it or how lmao ?

[Anonymous No.2521447]

>>2521438
Yes, you should occasionally take the glass (or flex plate or whatever) off, walk to the kitchen sink, and give it a scrub. It's important advice.

[Anonymous No.2521451]

>>2521438
I use the stock ender 3 pro magnetic bed thing. It just pulls right off. I took it to the sink and cleaned it with soap and hot water, then applied some alcohol with a washcloth. Which is my usual way of cleaning the bed.

[Anonymous No.2521458]

>>2521235
kek nice. is this OC

[Anonymous No.2521467]

>>2521437
Huh, I also get that a bit, I just wipe with acetone. Will give my glass bed a soapy scrub too I guess.

[Anonymous No.2521497]

>>2521467
Alcohol is fine for daily use (as long as you are also careful not to touch your bed with your greasy booger fingers), then hit it with the dish soap when you start to notice it having trouble adhering, or if you are about to start a big, high-stakes print that you know will want to warp.

[Anonymous No.2521498]

>>2521497
meant to reply to >>2521437

[Anonymous No.2521513]

Pro tip, always check direction of the threads before printing. Now this shit wont screw in.

[Anonymous No.2521519]

>>2521513
RIP. Also does that PCB ruler have a spelling mistake by chance? I've never seen one without a typo.

[Anonymous No.2521534]

>>2520773
>there are only 2 printer manufacturers in existance!
go apply at prusa, they might hire you as well faggot, both companies are equally garbage

[Anonymous No.2521536]

>>2520663
I started to use better build plates. I only print with ABS and PETG now. I hate PLA. It is so hard to work with and not worth it in the end.

[Anonymous No.2521537]

>>2521513
flip the pipe part around and it will screw in

[Anonymous No.2521539]

>>2521497
Seriously this. I use a cloth to cover my glass bed when not in use. I clean after every print. I never need to use glue or hairspray. After I stopped tinkering with my shit and started to print with it, it was really kino. Ended up getting a second ender 6, left shit the fuck alone, got a BLTouch, upgraded the firmware to enable it, and I print nonstop now.

[Anonymous No.2521555]

>>2521519
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1554

[Anonymous No.2521560]

>>2521536
>I hate PLA. It is so hard to work with
Maybe you should use a better build plate.

[Anonymous No.2521585]

>>2521433
no one ? I dont want to put loctite on my printer but this is annoying.

[Anonymous No.2521589]

>>2521585
Threaded fasteners tend to come loose from vibration if they're not torqued tight enough. Tighten things more than you have been. There is also low strength loctite.

[Anonymous No.2521606]

>>2520663
Summon the spray bottle filled with 99% isopropanol.

[Anonymous No.2521637]

>>2521585
Loctite is the answer you were looking for all along, just use the green or blue, not the red.

[Anonymous No.2521638]

>>2521589
>>2521637
Thank You gentlemen, I will try and do it over the Christmas holidays.

[Anonymous No.2521641]

Really happy with how this turned out.

[Anonymous No.2521642]

And it glows like a /pol/ poster!

[Anonymous No.2521650]

>>2521642
vapour smoothed abs? Or are you one of the weirdos with unnatural amounts of cloroform laying around?

[Anonymous No.2521684]

>>2521235
see i don't get this one.
i smoke meth but i still wear a seatbelt. it's about risk management.

[Anonymous No.2521693]

>>2521684
Same, though my meth is sold by a dude with a doctorate.
This morning I got up to 135mph on my drive to work. I recently made a fume cabinet for my abs printer and newly bought resin printer.

[Anonymous No.2521719]

>>2518292
Where are you getting the files for these?

[Anonymous No.2521721]

>>2518442
>he thinks you can’t print car parts

[Anonymous No.2521740]

>>2517269
SEXOOOOOOOOOOOO

[Anonymous No.2521758]

>>2521650
Yes, VS-ABS. I wouldn't waste good chloroform on plastic.

[Anonymous No.2521766]

>>2521758
That's pretty cool. No idea companies had started making glow abs, typically just reserved to pla/petg.
Can you link to the stl's?

[Anonymous No.2521814]

How important is it for have a raspberry pi for klipper/octoprint etc. I have a single board computer and a dell optiplex that my job was throwing away. I want to just have all of my printers and a cnc machine run from the optiplex. Is that possible.

[Anonymous No.2521836]

>>2521814
We've been through this before. Just stop crying over $60 and just get a Raspberry Pi. You need GPIO if you want more than just babby mode.

[Anonymous No.2521886]

Trying to get UBL working with my Ender 5 with SKR Mini E3 V3 and CRtouch (Used as Z stop, connected to board with 5pin plug. Original Zstop switch removed to not interfere. Homes on Z fine with the probe)
Freshly compiled MArlin 2.1 firmware: https://pastebin.com/9uA11C2J
Initialized the eeprom
I created the mesh with:
G29 P1
G29 S1
G29A
Saved to eeprom
Start Gcode has
G28 ;Home
G29 L1 ;Load UBL
G29 J2 ;4 Point mesh comparison
(Should be redundant because I have restore mesh after G28 enabled)
Calibrated Esteps.
Set the Zoffset. Paper felt tight, could feel the nozzle tip vibrate as I moved the paper under when using the Zoffset wizard.
Saved all the config.
Set a first layer print test off and it sucks. Tight in some places, way too loose in others.
Checked it's using the Zoffset correctly; if I make the Zoffset +3MM and run a print again, it is indeed taking the value into accord because that creates a 3mm gap above the bed so I assume it's using the -0.43 value I set on the firmware but it just seems off.
Are all my inverts on Z for an Ender 5 correct?

[Anonymous No.2521898]

>>2521519
Yeah, google services are banned in china, so they use chinese translators made in china, that's why everything chinese is full of typos.
>>2521537
It don't work like that.

I printed a mirrored version and the fit is really air tight, just perfect. I'm getting good at this, too bad my educative fusion 360 license is about to expire.

[Anonymous No.2521900]

>>2521898
Forgot pic.

[Anonymous No.2521904]

I've been messing around with ironing, but no matter what I change, the prints always end up in this matte/shiny mixture, what do?

[Anonymous No.2521905]

>>2521836
Where the fuck are you going to buy a raspberry pi 3b+ for $60? Dunno if the 3b can run octopi well enough to do the task as my own 3b+ struggles sometimes. None of them are in stock unless you wanna splurge for the 4 models and they're ~$200. I'd say go for an older model or budget smartphone and try that route instead but it'll eventually shit its battery out the back if you're lazy and keep your octopi connected all the time.

[Anonymous No.2521911]

>>2521904
I gave up on ironing, felt like a time waste to me for such little benefit. Consider Cura's fuzzy skin, maybe if you print in fuzzy skin then touch the surface with a torch shortly the surface will be quite uniform but still rough looking. All depends on what you're actually looking to achieve. I think Cura has adaptive layer printing in their experimental features as well, could go for that but I've never tried it.

Also if I have small prints I keep track in my mind what quarter of my bed seems to produce the best results and in the slicer I move it there in order to min/max the quality. If you're printing multiple pieces at once rafts are fuckin' sick, spending that extra filament is sometimes worth it to get parts that simply pop off the raft ready to go no post processing needed.

[Anonymous No.2521946]

>>2521904
Try increasing flow during ironing since it seems some sections are missing material.

[Anonymous No.2521951]

>>2521766
Yeah, KVP has both green and blue ABS, and I'm sure a few others do too. Here's that file: https://www.printables.com/model/181857-drippy-drum-with-divider-insert

[Anonymous No.2521954]

>>2521904
Better off tuning your flow than trying to iron.

[Anonymous No.2521967]

I want to make a dual 18650 magazine to put into the pistol-grip of future projects (Bluetooth air mouse, coil-gun, camera stabiliser with stock) and am wondering how to make a robust mechanism for clicking into place. Fabricating a compliment mechanism into the plastic is somewhat easy, but fatigue-prone. Not only the magazine latch, but the electrical contacts to the battery and to the device need to be spring-loaded. I have some TPU filament, could it be made into good and robust enough springs for this? I’ll see if my 18650 holders have removable spring contacts or if they’re riveted.
Anyone done anything like this before?

Also I’ll make it such that the device can arrange them as 1S2P or 2S1P. Balancing required.

[Anonymous No.2522003]

Can you use a small 3d printer to make a bigger one that uses most of the same electronics?

[Anonymous No.2522015]

>>2522003
Provided you source the metal parts like the extrusions and rails etc separately, yes. In fact the Voron 0 was sized to be able to print all the essential parts of any Voron printer.

[Anonymous No.2522025]

>>2522015
That's good to know, I was hesitant about getting a small printer to begin with but if it can self-upgrade then it'll suit my needs in the end.

[Anonymous No.2522034]

>>2522025
If you're getting a more standard off the shelf printer you're really not going to be able to just 'upgrade it' to make it bigger, and unless you're trying to do big shit for furniture or something the standard FDM size stuff is generally fine for the vast majority of stuff.
The other thing you should consider is if you want the printer to use for other projects or if you want the printer to be the project. That'll definitely effect what you end up buying, and the Voron style stuff the other anon mentioned really falls more into the printer as a project category

[Anonymous No.2522050]

>>2522025
It's not going to be worth the cost.
Upgrading something like an ender 2 into something with a 210x210mm bed is going to cost considerably more than just getting an ender 3/cr10.
The cost delta gets worse with a printer that has the z axis on the bed (core xy/ h bots, etc).
Good thing is, even though my main printer is a 300x300 unit I rarely use more than 100x100 on the bed. Most of the things you'll find will fit that envelope, weirdly enough.

[Anonymous No.2522068]

>>2517269
Prusa chads I kneel. Bought a Creality Ender 3 V2 and made it seven whole prints before it required disassembly and repair. It's still not printing correctly. I should have... bought a Prusa...

[Anonymous No.2522088]

>>2522068
That's not how you spell P1P

[Anonymous No.2522122]

Should I drop $75 on a used Elegoo mars pro? I don't have a resin printer but I mainly want to try printing out keycaps

[Anonymous No.2522131]

>>2522122
That's a good price for small things if it works, but it's probably barely used.
I got a resin printer recently.
You're going to need stuff
and let me tell you every single thing about resin printing is a gigantic pain in the ass
do you have any further questions

[Anonymous No.2522182]

Any thoughts on Flashforge brand printers?

[Anonymous No.2522197]

I finally did it bros

[Anonymous No.2522200]

>>2522197
Hot glue it and repost

[Anonymous No.2522210]

Sovol SV06 yes or no

[Anonymous No.2522281]

>>2521637
>just use the green or blue, not the red
I'd suggest purple for this.

[Anonymous No.2522283]

>>2521967
Use polypropylene or nylon.

[Anonymous No.2522290]

>be me
>only print with pla with my printer in a closet
>need to start printing a lot of shit in abs

I don't feel like fucking with hooking up an exhaust system to the enclosure, is there any reason why I shouldn't just move the whole fucking thing into the garage and call it a day?

[Anonymous No.2522293]

>>2522290
If the garage is cold you're gonna have warping like no one business

I'm not sure why you need to use ABS, but research ASA too, I hear it basically overtook ABS

[Anonymous No.2522318]

>>2522293
it always gets me when i read stuff like "ASA basically overtook ABS" like it's some sort of new invention. not trashing you or anything, i just think it's funny that some plastic discovered half a century ago is some new hot shit.
there are so many thermoplastics that i guess people haven't tried, or aren't mass manufactured, or whatever.

[Anonymous No.2522324]

Bros, opinion on the Bambu Carbon X1? How its compared to Prusa i3? Any other good printer in this pricerange?

[Anonymous No.2522337]

>>2521684
>>2521693
>not printing with meth specifically for the fumes
NGMI

[Anonymous No.2522340]

>>2521898
can't wait for you to join us kneecapped negros limping along on the hobby license for the last two years.

I actually finished a project recently and realized that I had five major versions, e.g. 5 of my 10 files and the other 5 were either done or abandoned so suddenly my queue of 10 that I've been moving one out moving one in for the last several months was empty. It was like the first nut after nnn seeing that editable files list empty and not needing to jack around to do a new design.

[Anonymous No.2522344]

>>2522003
the things that get bigger aren't the printed things necessarily. they're just interfaces for the rails and project boxes for the electronics. the rails, belts, bed, tubes and wires are what is going to get bigger and at that point taking your hot end out to put in the bigger printer probably isn't worth taking the smol printer offline.

[Anonymous No.2522345]

>>2522122
$75 might be worth the risk it's utterly fucked upt.

[Anonymous No.2522346]

>>2522290
I've been using my porch which is like a mini garage.
Built an insulated enclosure for the printer.
It's fucking miserable being out there this time of year. Awful cold.

[Anonymous No.2522347]

>>2522293
nta. can you acetone smooth ASA because I basically just bought a huge printer to take the acetone smooth pill and start making everything with ABS.

[Anonymous No.2522354]

>>2522324
The X1 will be a lot faster than an i3, and you can print warpy filaments since it's enclosed. The i3 is a good printer, but it's design is getting pretty dated.

[Anonymous No.2522357]

>>2522347
Yes, ASA smoothes just fine with ass o' tone, it's just like ABS with worse color selection.

[Anonymous No.2522382]

>>2522182
I bought one of the dual-nozzle ones back in 2016 for $800
Fucking tiny build volume
irritating support
expensive
regretted it

[Anonymous No.2522384]

>>2522347
if you look up chemical compatibility tables for whatever material you're printing with, any solvent incompatibilities (acetone, toluene, ethyl acetate) are going to be because the material is dissolved by them. so any incompatible solvent could be used for smoothing.

[Anonymous No.2522419]

Bros my printer finally came. I’m pumped. Setting it up now picrel

[Anonymous No.2522425]

>>2522419
https://youtu.be/-MaCJZIBKGs

[Anonymous No.2522489]

Is the Ender 3 Neo V2 worth it so I get bed leveling etc?
Do the builtplates come flat and not warped?

[Anonymous No.2522493]

bambu p1p shipped, arrives on tuesday. looking forward being able to replace my 2 e3s essentially with it's speed. thinking of picking up an ams but don't know if it's worth half the cost of the printer itself

[Anonymous No.2522509]

>>2522419
That's based brother here's to leveled beds

Pic related my project but the support are spooky.
TPU, making a saddle over steering column to put phone on for maps

[Anonymous No.2522520]

>>2522425
>>2522509
Hell yea, lets fucking go big doggie

Got my rig running decent. I had to dial the Z offset way down to -1.75 or something similar. Is that normal? Seems high as fuck, but the stock 0 offset is super high.

[Anonymous No.2522535]

Never smoothed ABS.
Would it be possible to smooth the inside of a 2 mm diameter hole?

[Anonymous No.2522565]

>>2522535
lots of q tips?

[Anonymous No.2522574]

>>2522520
My Z offset is at -1.810 for my mini+
As long as it's between 0 and -2 it's fine I guess

[Anonymous No.2522587]

>>2522520
I'm that orange tpu guy, my offset is at like -3.10
I think it just depends how bound you made your springs. Wind em all down equally and you'd have an even higher offset

That saddle is done

[Anonymous No.2522593]

Hi frens,
Printed six at once. Out of six, only these two became 3d objects. Right has big gouges but stayed on the build plate, left was found in the soup. The other 4 were pancakes i had to scrape off my fep. They are both missing the loop on their heads that would make them a keychain.

Machine is a saturn s, parts were lifted 5mm from plate, 2.7s exposure, 30s base exposure, 100 base layers.
Using 7:1 of elegoo abs-like grey and tenacious clear, medium auto supports

Was it because i have too many base layers? I want to check here before i need to replace the fep screen again.

[Anonymous No.2522618]

>>2522535
You could drop or spray some acetone down the hole while it's in the vapor chamber. If you o it outside the chamber it will probably evaporate before it can do much.

[Anonymous No.2522634]

>>2517269
>SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Why phrozen not recommended?

[Anonymous No.2522663]

I've been away for a couple years, what's the verdict on PETG vs ABS?
Is there still any point bothering with ABS, or has PETG supplanted it? Wondering what filament I should order and whether I should pick up one of those enclosure tents.

[Anonymous No.2522694]

>>2522663
PETG is inferior in everything but ease of printing and solvent resistance.

ABS looks better, is more heat resistant, sands nicely, paints nicely, vapor smooths nicely, can be solvent welded, glues nicely, is more impact resistant, less susceptible to creep, among other things.

[Anonymous No.2522721]

>>2522663
PETG is r*ddit filament. Real frens print ABS.

[Anonymous No.2522728]

>>2522593
I shall proceed to go fuck myself.
Not enough support, part was sticking to fep screen the. Tearing away from buildplate
At least i know the problem now :)

[Anonymous No.2522733]

first print in like a month

[Anonymous No.2522737]

>>2520715
>If you want to tinker with your printer vs actually printing, sure
>>2520144

For ender 3 to be a good printer, bare minimum would be

>chimera titanium all metal heat break 4-8 USD if you buy one or two, but prices may vary on your location.
>E3 z belt mod 35-40 USD for hardware, +20 for petg/ABS spool.
>https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3

Buy the all metal heat break and ABS, find a cardboard box to put over the ender 3 to act as a temporary enclosure, move the battery out of the box, run a ground wire from the same threaded holes that were mounted to the frame, find a place to secure the ground wire to bare metal on the printer frame.

In pic related I used a spade terminal loosened the bolt and slid it behind the metal bracket.

The downside to using a chimera heatbreak will be that its 3 mm shorter than the stock one, but it wont matter too much when you print ABS.

even with minimum changes you will still have
>8bit loud ass drivers
>plastic extruder, but hey you can print abs now, for example here is an improved tensioner arm. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4406883

[Anonymous No.2522741]

>>2520774
>so I swapped out the stock bowden tube for a capricorn

Fell for the cpricorn meme, all they did was make it blue.

[Anonymous No.2522752]

Wish my ass luck boys

[Anonymous No.2522783]

>>2520720
I’m the anon that just got his today. I’m brand new, can you give me the skinny on the PTFE for the hot end? Is that an upgrade to the existing filament tubing? Also what do ppl use the PETG for usually over PLA?

[Anonymous No.2522794]

>>2522752
pics of the top half?

[Anonymous No.2522805]

>>2522794
Don't encourage the furry.

[Anonymous No.2522810]

>>2522794
>>2522805
too late
Need to slice this in half slightly off-center to avoid supports that would ruin her breasts
Due to the sensual pose, the neck is slightly curved and not in the center

[Anonymous No.2522827]

>>2522737
My prints are already as good or better than the example "improved" prints in that link and I already print ABS just fine on my Ender 3 Pro.

I hadn't heard about the all metal heatbreak, though. I've been worried about trying one because most have reviews sprinkled in them saying they cause worse clogging.

[Anonymous No.2522833]

>>2522694
>>2522721
Alright then. Looks like ASA has dropped in price, I'll probably get some of that stuff too, I have a few prints I want to do for my garden.

[Anonymous No.2522875]

>>2522833
Not only is ABS low in price, but since it is less dense than gay filaments like PETG and PLA, you get a lot more meters of filament per kg, meaning more volume to print with.

[Anonymous No.2522895]

Looking to purchase a budget printer for all purpose with ability to print pla, petg, nylon, abs, polycarbonate (would probably need upgrades for this), etc. I've been looking at the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro and the Sovol Sv06. Which of this is a better choice or are there better options in the $200-300 range?

[Anonymous No.2522905]

>>2517540
Isnt the mighty higher resolution?

[Anonymous No.2522942]

Do I need new gcode in order to print using a different extruder? I just bought one of these, and I wasn't able to print anything. I did some troubleshooting, and I top apart the top half of the extruder so that I could see if the motor was actually turning the gear, and it wasn't. I'm wondering whether or not I have a defective product. I have never made any gcode, by the way.

[Anonymous No.2522944]

Do I need new gcode in order to print using a different extruder? I just bought one of these, and I wasn't able to print anything. I did some troubleshooting, and I took apart the top half of the extruder so that I could see if the motor was actually turning the gear, and it wasn't. I'm wondering whether or not I have a defective product. I have never made any gcode, by the way.

[Anonymous No.2522962]

>>2522520
>Is that normal?
Yes. Zero is intended to be high enough that you're unlikely to run the nozzle into the bed by default. Much better to start high and adjust down than the other way.

[Anonymous No.2522963]

>>2522694
>PETG is inferior in everything but ease of printing and solvent resistance.
Also UV stability, though ASA has that. A big difference is that ABS (and to a lesser extent ASA) produces stinky fumes when heated, while PETG does not.

>>2522875
ABS also has a lower molten viscosity, so it's better for fast printing. It does have practical advantages if you can work with it effectively.

[Anonymous No.2522972]

>>2521642
Looks like a real product.
Nice TS-100

[Anonymous No.2522976]

I wish prusa would make a voron0 sized portable printer, called prusa micro or some shit. I would get one in a heartbeat

[Anonymous No.2522992]

>>2522752
>>2522794

No need to fret, everyone.
My ass is OKAY!
Now my top!

[Anonymous No.2522994]

>>2522895
pfffttthahahahahahhaha
poorfags
when will they learn

[Anonymous No.2522995]

>>2522992
Hot.

[Anonymous No.2522996]

>>2522995
Lola Bunny is a sexual awakening.
Even her 2D cross-section can make you diamonds

[Anonymous No.2523024]

>>2522976
Why not just build a V0, and then print a nice handle for it?

[Anonymous No.2523034]

>>2523024
>just build
currently just don't have the time

[Anonymous No.2523035]

>>2522976
Every printer is portable if you're not a dyel

[Anonymous No.2523047]

What's the easiest to print transparent resin? I have an elegoo saturn

[Anonymous No.2523059]

What do I need to do to fix my Ender 3 V2? The reason why there's a blob in the middle is because it got caught on the nozzle. The nozzle was moving around with the circle.

[Anonymous No.2523063]

>>2517269
first time resin slicing
is this going to work or does everything need to be suspended further from the plate?
I think this is a 20 degree angle with 0 Z-lift height

[Anonymous No.2523064]

>>2523063
Slap it into UV tools for the most accurate answer to that question

[Anonymous No.2523067]

is there a trick to make the least amount of supports and still make the print work out? talking about fdm, want to avoid (or at least minimize) mangled surfaces and supports prongs welded to the print

[Anonymous No.2523073]

>>2523067
>>2522996
Depending on the model, cutting it in half with Meshmixer can really help.
But of course now you have the new problem of gluing them together

[Anonymous No.2523076]

>>2521836
What exactly do you need gpio pins for and why couldnt you just plug an arduino into the desktop and control gpios that way?
A desktop seems good for running multiple machines.

[Anonymous No.2523079]

>>2523063
I dont recommend you do a full plate for a first. Harder to troubleshoot when theres a million variables.

[Anonymous No.2523084]

>>2523079
It'll only take an hour and a half though
Nothings lost if it fails

[Anonymous No.2523085]

>>2523073
for that you can just make pivots and stuff in addition to using glue/solvents to weld the parts together, you can also do that with meshmixer (though i sometimes run into issues where meshmixer makes fucked up cuts and holes for no reason)

[Anonymous No.2523087]

>>2523084
>Nothings lost if it fails
except resin and time

[Anonymous No.2523098]

>>2517269
So I followed advice from OP-post and ordered Kingroon KP3L, a week ago, paid by card. They still haven't shipped and they're not answering my requests to "24\7" support. Did I get scammed? Was the price at 170$ per piece too good to be true?

[Anonymous No.2523105]

>>2523098
Don't tell me you're buying it directly from chinkland

[Anonymous No.2523107]

>>2523105
I used their website, it said they have EU warehouse. Local dealer was selling it for 250 dollars vs 170 on the website so I decided to try

[Anonymous No.2523108]

>>2523084
Except that you wont know why it failed. Have you ran an exposure time finder. Optimized you bottom layer lift speeds and heights for blooming. Ran a tolerance test.
Its very hard to figure out why something failed when you dont have a baseline for what works.

[Anonymous No.2523169]

is there any reason to not get chinese nozzles?
would i notice any difference? is there any difference?

[Anonymous No.2523198]

>>2523169
I’ve had good luck with them. They’re so cheap there’s no sense in not trying them out.

[Anonymous No.2523237]

>>2523169
the metal is super soft and wears quickly, the bores are incorrectly sized, and they're quite prone to snapping off in your heatblock, that being said, i still buy them.

[Anonymous No.2523245]

>>2523059
You need better bed adhesion. Re-level the bed with a nice thin bit of paper like a post-it, should get it nicely squashed to the glass bed. Ensure your belts and such are tight too. Also your filament looks like silicone, what the hell is it?

[Anonymous No.2523251]

>>2523245
It's PLA, but the box says it's made in China. I've gotten plenty of good products from China, but they do lie sometimes.

[Anonymous No.2523256]

>>2520145
this

[Anonymous No.2523277]

>>2523059
>>2523245
>>2523251
Update: I did a short final adjustment to level the bed perfectly, and I set the nozzle temperature to 230 degrees, like on the box, and the print quality already appears to be a couple orders of magnitude better. It's actually printing now.

[Anonymous No.2523278]

>>2523169
There is a difference and considering you don't really ever need to change your nozzle I think you might as well go with a good nozzle.

[Anonymous No.2523279]

>>2523277
230 is kinda high, expect stringing, possibly sagging too.

[Anonymous No.2523280]

>>2523279
This is what I kept on getting when I tried printing it at 200. >>2523059 It actually works now. Maybe it's just a high-temperature PLA.

[Anonymous No.2523284]

>>2523059
>>2523277
You're printing way too far from the bed. See >>2520010

Raise your Z sensor, raise your bed with the calibration screws, or if it's got automatic level, reduce your Z offset setting (remember to save).

[Anonymous No.2523285]

>>2523284
>reduce your Z offset setting (remember to save).
I tried doing this, and it didn't work. Maybe I'll try a smaller negative offset next time. It's already applying that swirly filler material on the inside with no issues.

[Anonymous No.2523288]

>>2523285
Look at the zig zag lines on the inside of the print. They should overlap and merge into the outlines of the print, and there shouldn't be any room between them.
If you already have the height perfectly tuned, buy some hair spray. You want the ones that say "extra high strength" or similar. Creality's glass beds come precoated with something plastic sticks to, but it wears off after a couple prints and then you need to reapply something else. There are special sprays for this, but honestly they're just tiny cans of hairspray relabeled and price hiked three times. I use grocery store hair spray and it works perfectly.

[Anonymous No.2523302]

Sup /3DPG/, does anyone have the STL for this Flying Fuck (fox/duck) handy? I'm not paying $10 for (H)ex3D's Patreon access just for this one joke. Literally all I need.

[Anonymous No.2523322]

>>2523302
Those look absolutely adorable. I second this.

[Anonymous No.2523327]

>>2523059
>>2523245
>>2523251
>>2523277
>>2523279
>>2523284
>>2523288
This is how it turned out.

[Anonymous No.2523329]

[Anonymous No.2523330]

>>2523327
Now you are running too hot.
Did you try to bing the nozzle down onto the plate a bit more?
Or set your first layer to go slow and at 0.3mm layer height.

[Anonymous No.2523342]

>>2523329
>>2523327
My bet is your just compensating for a lack of adhesion by over extruding & being too hot like >>2523330 said

[Anonymous No.2523345]

>>2523330
>>2523342
That little dog is my first ever successful 3D print. I'm going to try high temp and slow printing for only the bottom next time. After the base is established, I will bring down the temp to somewhere around 200 and bring it back to normal speed.

[Anonymous No.2523351]

>>2523345
200 is too low, consider 205 or 210.
It may not seem like much, but 5 degrees is a noteworthy the step, not to mention 30 degrees.

[Anonymous No.2523353]

>>2523345
>That little dog is my first ever successful 3D print.
congrats.

[Anonymous No.2523358]

>>2523351
The only problem it seems that I've had as a consequence of printing with 230 is that there was a bit of stringing near the dogs tail and head. Not too big of a deal. I'll just lower it to 210 after the base is established. I plan on upgrading the hotend to a Phaetus Dragonfly BMS, but I'm going to need to print an adaptor for it.
>>2523353
Thank you, anon.

[Anonymous No.2523377]

Just bought a Sovol sv06, how badly did I fuck up? It's my first printer.

[Anonymous No.2523402]

>>2523377
i hope u didn't do it through their website. a lot of people bitch about their customer service being a motherfucker. i bought one through aliexpress and it ended up being 10$ more. looks pretty slick though for the price.

[Anonymous No.2523405]

>>2523358
i don't even print PLA+ at that temperature. it starts to degrade the plastic.
i'd do a temperature tower, with like 5 or 10 degree celsius increments, and then rip the layers apart with a pair of pliers to see how much weaker the hotter layers are. it's surprisingly weaker.
you can also turn your z screw manually with your hand, then lock the steppers, and move your zstop (the actual switch bolted to your printer) until it just barely actuates.
before you do that though, crank down all the corners completely, so you have a lot of spring tension on the bed and it's as low as it'll go. that way you're not leveling at the maximum extent of your springs.

[maxim !CnQ6bo85u. No.2523410]

>>2523405
>i don't even print PLA+ at that temperature. it starts to degrade the plastic.
The actual spool says that you can go up to 230, and it worked. Maybe the manufacturers figured out the PLA they were making only works at high temperatures.
>you can also turn your z screw manually with your hand, then lock the steppers, and move your zstop (the actual switch bolted to your printer) until it just barely actuates.
I already did this. I have leveled my bed perfectly, plus I also have the CR Touch auto leveling kit.
>before you do that though, crank down all the corners completely, so you have a lot of spring tension on the bed and it's as low as it'll go. that way you're not leveling at the maximum extent of your springs.
The rubber stoppers I installed to replace the springs are pretty taught.

Next time, I'll try lowering the temperature a bit after the first few layers to avoid stringing.

[Anonymous No.2523415]

>>2523410
do what ya wanna do mate. who knows, maybe your thermistor is installed in a slightly different place or the temperature is reported differently or any number of things. if the results are good keep doing it.

[maxim !CnQ6bo85u. No.2523417]

>>2523415
Well, there was stringing. Maybe I'll compensate by having a bit of negative Z offset and only using the high temperature for the foundation. I also slowed the speed down to 40% for the entire print, but I don't think I needed to have it run so slowly after the foundation was laid.

[Anonymous No.2523419]

>>2523402
Amazon had a 30 off coupon and given where I am, there was no shipping or tax, so I got it for 269.

[Anonymous No.2523445]

>>2522827
>I hadn't heard about the all metal heatbreak, though. I've been worried about trying one because most have reviews sprinkled in them saying they cause worse clogging.

The ones that say that are the dumb fucks who turn their printer off after the print, and the heatsink starts to warm up when heat is transferring causing to stay warmer longer, and then the filament slightly softens, bulges, cools down, hardens, but doesn't shrink.

The downside is that the chimera heatbreak is 3mm shorter, and the stock ender 3 box sucks at cooling the heatsink, I tested some heat breaks myself, I did get clogs, and that was due to heat creep.

Then I tried this
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4819097

clogs went away since airflow was more directed to the heatsink.

then two weeks later clogs started to happen again. I had a feeling its because the fan was barely preventing clogs, but it was teetering on cooling just enough to not.

My kingroon kp3s has a v6 in it after I swapped out the stock hotend, and its being cooled with a 3010 right on the heatsink, My guess would be that if I realized this and printed a shroud that put the stock fan closer and directed the air better I would've been fine.

>My prints are already as good or better than the example "improved" prints in that link and I already print ABS just fine on my Ender 3 Pro.

That's not what I was getting at, I am talking about the gantry moving since the non lead screw side is being dragged and will cause the gantry to move .5 - 1mm

>.5m - 1mm that's not a big deal
literally .2mm makes a different in print quality worse/better. While the mod had the gantry the same every single time since its on synced belt path.

But I am just mentioning the z belt mod as a recommendation, to see if it's something you want to try or not.

[Anonymous No.2523446]

3d printing is the best hobby for adhd autists fyi

>were gonna make it

[Anonymous No.2523453]

>>2523446
Am I supposed to know who that faggot is?

[Anonymous No.2523455]

>>2522944

Put it back together and watch the gear to see if it spins or not, and did you make sure to plug in the stepper motor?

[Anonymous No.2523457]

>>2523453
what would he think about 3d printing

[Anonymous No.2523462]

>>2523457
Why would I care?

[maxim !CnQ6bo85u. No.2523470]

>>2523455
>Put it back together and watch the gear to see if it spins or not
The gear does not spin, even with the extruder off the motor. Yes, the stepper motor was plugged in. It kept getting really hot. At one point, after I took off the extruder, the motor gear was sort of wobbling back and forth when the printer was running.

[Anonymous No.2523471]

>>2523457
Give this guy some cardboard boxes to play around with, and he'll make an impression that nobody will ever forget, imagine what he could do with a good sized printer. Two words: decoy housings.

[Anonymous No.2523490]

So I've noticed a lot of makers have special controlled storage for their filaments, with moisture and/or temperature control. If the filament is so sensitive it has to be stored this way to prevent degradation, what about the final product? Once you've actually made something, wouldn't that thing break easily (unless also stored in a special climate-controlled environment)?

[Anonymous No.2523492]

>>2519763
>>2519852
I'm back. The replacement nozzle I ordered arrived friday, and I've spent the night getting my temperature right. Hardened steel, 0.4mm. Had to bump temperature up thirty degrees to stop the extruder clicking, but now it's printing quite well. This was done at 50mm/s first layer, 100mm/s all print speeds, 3000mm/s2 acceleration, .2mm thick layers.

[Anonymous No.2523516]

>>2523470
>even with the extruder off the motor
So put it back together and watch the gear to see if it spins or not.

[Anonymous No.2523524]

>>2523405
>i don't even print PLA+ at that temperature. it starts to degrade the plastic.
Meanwhile, actual quantitative testing shows this:
https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/the-influence-of-extrusion-temperature-on-layer-adhesion

[Anonymous No.2523525]

>>2523516
There is no movement when it is together. Nothing I did made it work.

[Anonymous No.2523528]

>>2523524
YES. I feel vindicated.

[Anonymous No.2523529]

>>2523524
YES. I have been vindicated.

[Anonymous No.2523543]

>>2523524
Because it fuses the layers together better. But it also means bridges and overhangs will droop more. Conceivably, thinner layers will get strong at lower temperatures, since it takes less heat flow to melt the top of the last layer.

[Anonymous No.2523545]

>>2523524
are these the sort of prints you usually do?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzI8ltDMyD0

[Anonymous No.2523596]

>>2523169
word is they arent held to the same standards, shitty finish hard edges with burs, clogs or flowrate issues hard to diagnose; that being said ive been using chink knockoff nozzles like 1$ a piece on ebay and i dont care if its not the best of the best

[Anonymous No.2523606]

>>2523596
>i dont care if its not the best of the best
Do you care about the performance of a few-hundred-dollar printer using $20 a spool filament?

[Anonymous No.2523640]

>>2523490
It's reddit and youtube ninnies, anon.
For resin printer all you need for ventilation is a $15 fan pointed at an open window.
You see leddit and boobtubers shill products for ventilations systems running $100+
Drying filament is overblown because stringing is not the end of the world. heat gun or lighter takes care of strings instantly.
But no, please go on and buy $60 dryer for each roll goy!

[Anonymous No.2523644]

>>2523490
The problem with printing with wet filament is due to the moisture doing bad things when heated. The plastic may react with the water at elevated temperatures, hydrolyzing its bonds and weakening it (e.g. PLA), it may expand and cause excessive oozing/stringing (e.g. PETG), and it may even boil and foam up to make a giant mess (nylon). Lots of things print much better dry even if they're printable at ambient humidity. And it can be a bit of a hassle to dry each spool before printing if you print often, so the cost/effort of setting up dry storage can be worth it.

Once something is printed, it will no longer be exposed to high enough temperatures to matter for the above considerations, so getting wet after that point is generally not a concern. With nylon in particular, it gets a lot tougher after absorbing moisture, so it's generally advisable to encourage moisture uptake if a nylon print will be subject to abuse. Injection molded nylon parts are sometimes kept in a humidor to make that go faster than just leaving them exposed to air.

[Anonymous No.2523693]

I've had a 3D printer for about a year now and i've learned a whole lot. There are some bigger projects i've been interested in but i'm unsure where to even begin with this kind of stuff. The two i'm most interested in are 3D printed UAV/Drones, and also an opensource 3D printed microscope I found online. I find anything with moving parts or functional use in general really fascinating. 3D printed robots also seem very cool although maybe a bit niche currently.

That being said, I'm having a hard time finding too many resources on these kinds of projects. Most of what I find on these topics seems to (reasonably) expect a certain level of foundational knowledge for anyone planning to undertake the challenge. I was hoping anyone here could point me in the right direction, at least some basic background knowledge.

[Anonymous No.2523695]

>>2523693
Pic related as well, it's called the openflex microscope.

[Anonymous No.2523781]

it's arrived

[Anonymous No.2523784]

>>2523693
3D printing isn't really ideal for drone frames, you are better off going with a carbon fiber frame and then printing the mounting parts out of TPU. That said, it is possible, but you'll probably end up just taking the guts out of your smashed printed frame and putting them in a store bought frame.

[Anonymous No.2523790]

>>2523784
Are there any resources you recommend for someone interested in learning more about drones in general? And I guess control systems(?) etc

[Anonymous No.2523795]

>>2523784
Weak shit.
This was my trajectory:

1. Buy the cheapest transmitter/receiver, speed controller, control board, motors, props, etc, you can find

2. Use a cheap foam brick with thick popsicle sticks for arms to build your frame

3. Mount your fragile parts inside hollows in the foam

4. Learn to fly the cheap brick, knowing you can replace the body and the parts easily

5. As you get better at flying and learn more about drones, upgrade piece by piece

A printed frame is fine for most drone hobbyists. Just expect to break a few, and don't put expensive components inside if you're shit at flying.

[Anonymous No.2523805]

>>2523784
3d printed frames are okay for really small ones, like the pic he posted, though. I've used them for that size and they held up fine, just a bit heavy.

[Anonymous No.2523806]

>>2523790
The RC/drone thread on this board has some good info on the first post. They can also point you in the right direction.

[Anonymous No.2523828]

>>2523781
setup was quick, this thing is crazy fast. it took a few minutes for the setup of the first print, but it took less than a minute to finish the included scraper code

[Anonymous No.2523834]

>>2523828
how does it keep the z screws synchronized? does it run them all the way to the top until it stalls out?

[Anonymous No.2523835]

Any idea what's happening with my prints where one side comes out fine but the other barely puts any filament through the extruder? I've already tried leveling my bed a few times and even tried a new, more flexible print bed to help with adhesion, but it's still coming out weird

>ender 3
>Overture PLA
>Cura sliced on standard setting, 220 degrees for nozzle, 65 for bed temp.

[Anonymous No.2523839]

>>2523835
since it's symmetrical like that i'd figure it's probably an issue with the distance between the nozzle and the bed. if the filament extrusion was more random, it might be something with the actual nozzle or extruder or whatever.
doesn't look like an adhesion thing, it's stuck pretty well.
it looks like the left side is a lot closer than the right side.
check and make sure all your shit is tight. push the hot end to the left, see how much play is in the X rail it rides on. push it to the right, see how much play. if it sags too much on the far end, that might be part of the problem. one thing i did was put two soupcans (or anything flat and rigid) on the printer base, lower the gantry, and unscrew/rescrew the carriages until it was really fucking level. tightening up your wheels removes slop too.
just play with it. wiggle stuff. think about what might cause the problem and how you could fix it.

[Anonymous No.2523844]

>>2523834
i'm assuming it's the z-axis timing belt that keeps them synched

[Anonymous No.2523847]

https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/specialoffer3dprintertxt.aspx?web=EMAIL+OPT+IN

It's back!

[Anonymous No.2523849]

>>2523844
is there a belt under the base?
if it has two motors, they won't be linked up with a belt.

[Anonymous No.2523850]

why get a .6mm nozzle? i see people talking about them but i can print .6mm lines out of a .4mm nozzle already

[Anonymous No.2523854]

>>2523849
yes, looked at the wiki troubleshooting

[Anonymous No.2523857]

>>2523835
Try a manual bed level.
Then jog your nozzle to ~10cm above the center of the bed, doesn't need to be exact.
Look into leveling the gantry for your printer, here's a video. Forgive the pajeetvid, but it seemed to be the only x gantry leveling tutorial that didn't have you buying unnecesary shit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwVxkukxJlw
It might also be worth your time to check your v-wheels on the x carriage, make sure they're not too tight and not too loose. If you can grab the larger plate at the back and twist clockwise/anti-clockwise and *hear* play, that's too much. If you can just *feel* play, that's probably alright.

[Anonymous No.2523877]

is there a way to print inner walls wider? that way i can get good precision on the surface but faster/stronger insides where the surface finish doesnt matter

[Anonymous No.2523881]

>>2523847
how about some filament deals

[Anonymous No.2523907]

Would a jar opener printed from PLA work or would it be too weak?

[Anonymous No.2523913]

>>2523907
PLA is stiff and slippery. It's as strong as polycarbonate, so it would work with a suitable design that EXACTLY fits a particular jar lid. But TPU would work better since it's grippier and can more easily accommodate a range of jar sizes.

[Anonymous No.2523915]

>>2523907
I think it could work, but you'd need to add some grippy parts.

>>2523913
Do you mean TPU grippers? Or solid TPU?

[Anonymous No.2523920]

>>2523915
Solid TPU. PLA is stiff and brittle, so it's not suited to something that needs to flex to accommodate a range of lid sizes. As I said, it can work if you exactly match one particular size, but that's probably not going to be very useful.

[Anonymous No.2523928]

>>2523913
>>2523915
I was thinking of this one. Or at least something of this type. Not the kind that goes around the lid, but more that just pulls the lid back enough to let some air in.

[Anonymous No.2523958]

>>2523907
it's pretty slippy. on parts with adjustment grooves and bolts, i have to really crank down the screws in order to prevent the nut/bolt head from slipping down the plastic.

[Anonymous No.2523960]

>>2523928
oh like a bottle opener
yeah probably
but i'd be worried about snapping the plastic. i dunno give it a go and report back.

[Anonymous No.2523971]

>>2523920
Isn't solid TPU too elastic? As in it would just elastically deform at the kind of torques you'd need to get a stuck lid open. Especially if the infill isn't 100%.

[Anonymous No.2523995]

>>2523640
I usually see a lot of low-tech solutions, usually something like filament rolls kept in plastic bins with a little bit of desiccant at the bottom. Maybe a mini hygrometer. Doesn't seem terribly expensive, but I'm too inexperienced to tell if it's overkill or not.

>>2523644
Another thing I saw with wet filament was it breaking before it even starts printing. I've seen one instance where it literally crumbled in a guy's hand. If that can happen to the filament, wouldn't it also happen to the final product?

[Anonymous No.2524024]

>>2523995
Heating filament above 100°C tends to have an influence on the water contained within.

[Anonymous No.2524027]

>>2523971
>Isn't solid TPU too elastic?
Spring steel is elastic. That's a different thing than having a low modulus of elasticity, which is what you're referring to. At any rate, 95A TPU is pretty firm.

>Especially if the infill isn't 100%
Depends on the actual structure of the part. Solid TPU would work in a relatively thin structure, but solid would probably be too stiff in a thicker one, at least with 95A TPU. Softer TPU would be more suited to that though.

[Anonymous No.2524036]

could i just increase print speeds slightly, by like 5mm/s or something, and get free marginally faster prints without any consequence?
or are default values tuned pretty well?

[Anonymous No.2524045]

>>2524027
>That's a different thing than having a low modulus of elasticity, which is what you're referring to
Well I'd use the term durometer, but I can't remember whether high value or low value is less firm.
>95A TPU is pretty firm
I guess it has to be if you're driving it down a bowden tube. All I can think of is the modulus of casting silicone, but from what you describe it sounds even stiffer than the TPU wheels of a scooter.

[Anonymous No.2524058]

>>2524045
>Well I'd use the term durometer
A durometer is a device used to measure the hardness of soft materials like rubber. There are multiple durometer scales used for different ranges. 95A is rather hard for a rubber, but there are harder ones available for printing (intended more for abrasion resistance than flexibility).

An elastic material can deform under stress and return to its original shape, and the stiffness of this response is called the modulus of elasticity. Both rubber and spring steel are elastic, but spring steel's modulus of elasticity is in the ballpark of thousands of times greater.

[Anonymous No.2524067]

>>2523828
based
Saving up for the carbon because I'll definitely print $500 worth of exotic filaments and stuff i definitely will

[Anonymous No.2524074]

>>2524071
>>2524071
>>2524071

New bread

[Anonymous No.2524115]

>>2523907
i have a PLA bottle opener that has lasted me for 5+ months of semi-irregular usage. It is definitely warped by now but still works, and only took like an hour of print time or so. Not sure how well a jar opener would work, but worth a try.

[Anonymous No.2524256]

>>2523835
Should have bought a Prusa.

[Anonymous No.2525145]

>>2522535
if you just want to smooth the hole try printing at 1.6mm and running a 2mm bit.

>>2522565
shaft of a q-tip is 2.6mm that's BBC for a 2mm hole

[Anonymous No.2525146]

>>2522587
>curves don't match
>blocks half of phone
>blocks speedo
>gigantic wall thickness
>TPU for no reason