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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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2506258 No.2506258 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Show us your failures edition
Last Thread: >>2501956

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 2022-11-19]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Bambu Labs X1
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own Voron, Rat Rig, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional parametric CAD programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, TinkerCAD, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do mesh free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.

>> No.2506354
File: 163 KB, 1134x2016, croptop.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

fuck i love resin printer failures, so much more fun than FDM spaghetti

>> No.2506399
File: 1.74 MB, 2000x1200, tank man gosling.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

i can't wait for my 3d printer to arrive
i am getting so tired of making fibreglass moulds in my living room where i have to stop every 2 seconds to vacuum the floor

>> No.2506414

Acktually, your in for a hole new world of vacuuming!

>> No.2506415
File: 108 KB, 1024x1024, 1648170439323.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>filing down a part that has a large elephant foot
>gust of wind comes in through window, blowing plastic dust into the air
Am I fucked?

>> No.2506423

It's plastic, not cobalt 60. One time is fine.

>> No.2506435

Ok, listen very carefully: you need to weigh your part, and compare that to what your slicer says it should weigh, then weigh the pile of dust, and figure out how much is missing from the pile based on that. Now measure the volume of your room, and draw a picture of EXACTLY where you were in it with your orientation, and draw the direction of the wind gust too. Now, take the surface area of your window opening, and using a PAID weather app, work out the closet representation of the wind speed at that time, do a fluid current analysis to find what it was AT your windows position, and then figure out the volume of air that came in.
This is all pretty simple shit, I just PRAY that wasn't PLA you were working with, or you might as well skip all of this and start making funeral preparations, which you will have to do in order to ensure that they double vacuum bag you and bury the carcass 12 feet down in a fully clay lined grave with a reinforced concrete cap that features some ominous sculptures to scare away any future civilizations from digging there and contaminating anyone in the future.

>> No.2506445

Based minimalist.

>> No.2506498
File: 19 KB, 600x350, ryan gosling blade runner scream.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>a new ender 3 just went up on marketplace for $195 several hours after i bought a new ender 3 for $325 (with a few pla+ rolls)

>> No.2506503
File: 110 KB, 640x1138, micro ender 3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

bro it's $100 every day at micro center

>> No.2506529

can i get away with building this using printed profiles if I don't plan to use heated bed or running it super fast?

>> No.2506532
File: 474 KB, 1080x2160, Screenshot_2022-11-20-19-19-18-717_com.miui.gallery.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Forgot pic. It's a miniaturized v-minion

>> No.2506542
File: 1.65 MB, 1936x726, fu.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Bros, I keep having a bit of minimal stringing and I'm not sure what to tweak further to prevent it.
I calibrated my printer by following every single calibration guide on Teaching Tech's website, including printing temp, retraction and linear advance. I also use coasting, and have it honed in just right to where the end of a layer doesn't lack material, meaning between the end of one layer and the start of the next, the extruder should be experiencing minimal internal pressures (and that's BEFORE retraction).
I also use combing as much as possible. Travels over 3 mm get retracted even when combing.

My retraction is as high as it can be based on the instructions provided with the all-metal hot end I use (3.5 mm).
I print PLA at 205 °C, that gives me perfect performance in the bridging and overhang calibration tests.

Any recommendations? Is there something else I should be tweaking?

>> No.2506568

i don't live in america

>> No.2506600

Hmm, I see this guy pop up on my feed once in a while of printers he's build and has github for them. He has mentioned a few printers that don't use a heated bed (maybe all of them dont)

But, his most recent videos shows 3d printer out of pla+ that may work for you.

>> No.2506603

Fan speed, don't have it at 100% especially if you're printing @ 205C

start @ 35% and increase if it shows prints deforming most of my printers use 35% and the only one I have is at 100% is my kingroon when I use the "fast" printing profile.

>> No.2506606

Oh? Huh, didn't see that coming at all.
I'll try tweaking the fan speed.

One issue is that my fan needs an initial high speed to get going. It won't start spinning if the speed setting goes from 0% to 30%.
At least in Cura, I can only have 2 settings, a fan speed for initial layers (usually 0) and then the speed for the rest of the print.
I could set the first speed to be fast enough to get the fan spinning, then have the low speed setting for the rest of the print. Though that means I would have active fan cooling active for the first few layers, which I believe is not great?

Any suggestions on how to tackle this?

>> No.2506609

Sweet, danke anon

>> No.2506631

Damn, it is surprisingly hard to deal with the "minimum start speed" issue for fans.
It's pretty common for fans to have a minimum start speed of 60% or more, I'm surprised standard solutions don't exist to allow people to circumvent the issue when the target is a fan speed below the necessary start speed.

How do you do it?

I'm using G-code post processing (same sort of processing done for temperature towers) but this is cumbersome as hell to do every single time I slice a file.

>> No.2506633

well I guess its my fault, start at the minimum fan speed that will have your fan actually spin up,

what printer do you have that the part cooling fan wont kick on @ 35%? I dont use cura anymore, I user superslicer so im not familiar with it anymore.

>> No.2506636

>I'm using G-code post processing
oh Im not familiar with this process.

>> No.2506665

Ender 3 v2, but it's modded, not stock fans. I'm using noctuas with buck converters.
I don't think it's at all uncommon for people to mod their printers with super quiet noctua fans.

Stock fans for this printer are louder than a plane taking off.

To be clear the fan can spin at low speeds, it just needs to be lowered into that speed from a higher one.
The initial inertia is high, meaning this fan won't actually start spinning unless it's set to 70% (it just keeps twitching without actually spinning otherwise).
But after that initial 70% gets it going, it can go down to high 20% and keep spinning.

Just needs that initial oomph.

>> No.2506666

At least in Cura, there's the possibility to "post-process" your Gcode with scripts.
In this case I'm using a script that allows you to set a particular setting based on what layer you're on. So in my case I set speed at 0% for layers 1 to 3, then layer 4 does 80%, then layers 5 and above do 35%.

>> No.2506787

Are FDM still shit? How is Resin as far as strength go? I want 1:1 scale under 1000. I hate PETG, melts in the car if it gets hot enough. Maybe a saturn for smaller resin parts? Come on guys whats the latest and greatest for under $1K, maybe that giant creation Ender 5 or whatever the fuck it was called. You would have to literally heat up an enclosure and since ill be in the east coast soon that might be hard.

>> No.2506795
File: 578 KB, 481x650, gondola1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I printed a gondola but the leg on the right fell off. I was printing at only 20% infill so I might need to increase that. filament is ABS+ on an Ender 3 v2 pro. also he is a sad gondola because there is some excess filament around his eyes. anyway to fix that?

>> No.2506818

Pry those tears off with an exacto knoife, that lust looks like support material.

>> No.2506820

support material like >>2506818 said
leg falling off on removal is layer adhesion was bad. I doubled my wall count and had a lot better luck with this as opposed to infill.

last you can print him on his back for a better front/face. ymmv as you get a lot of support on the back to clean up.

>> No.2506838
File: 1.02 MB, 1126x1500, IMG_20221120_214036_692.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I'm printing xmas gifts. In pic related there's a lamp.
I'm printing with:
>Ender 3 pro
>Sunlu PLA white (I'm not liking it)
>50°C for raft and first layer, then I turn off the bed

I'm experiencing lots of stringing and, as you can see, the interior of the print is quite a mess. Cleaning is hard and tirious because the blobs are really well attached.

Any clue where I can start to try to solve the problem?
I would try to decriese the nozzle to 200.

>> No.2506845


I think you could try to print the X axis and try a dirty bending test on it.
But why you wanna try something like this?

>Are FDM still shit?
no context on what you wanna do with it. How can someone reply?

>> No.2506869

FDM is exactly as good as you are at it, so you need to learn to tune your machine if you want the really good results. Speaking of machines, tuning gets easier when you get one in the $1000 range, and harder when you hobble yourself with a $99 Microcenter Ender 3.
Do not spend $1000 on any kind of Ender, no matter what number it is. Get a Prusa or build a Voron, but it's looking like the Bambu X1 is the new choice for people as lazy as you.

>> No.2506881

pretty sure marlin has a config for that
Super slicer also has a fan kickstart config
also not using shit chink fans helps a lot
>he didnt stock up on united pro 35x10

>> No.2506889

>Show us your failures
/diy/ won't let me upload a pdf of my resume, sorry.

>> No.2506932

Does anyone know if they enforce the one-per-customer stuff? Because I've managed to get my stock Ender 3 Pro printing fucking pristine and now my main issue is the time it takes to print things. I'd love to drop $300 on 3 more of them and have 4 going simultaneously but I dunno how to use the coupon 3 more times unless I just find some randos to go in and get it for me.

>> No.2506933
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>> No.2506950
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>Show us your failures edition

How about I show you guys my CR10 Ugly? Here's what it looked like before the fan wire went, original hull went with it and the ducts melted. Tons of mods, been in service cranking boatloads of stuff out for me since 2020.

>> No.2506953 [DELETED] 
File: 1.81 MB, 4000x3000, IMG_20221120_164204277.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

And frankensteined once again back into service. Klemco mount. Had to custom bodge a fan mount model to the direct drive mount.

>> No.2506955
File: 2.13 MB, 3000x4000, IMG_20221120_164155375.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]


And frankensteined once again back into service. Klemco mount. Had to custom bodge a fan mount model to the direct drive mount.

>> No.2506959
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This is the power of ABS.

>> No.2506978
File: 2.60 MB, 1304x1002, help.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I just want to print christmas ornaments and printer upgrades
can provide more details on request, functionally retarded so idk what to include

>> No.2506989

The hell do you have a .6 on such a small build volume? Doesn't it come with a .4?

>> No.2506991

Some people don't have time to wait on their printer for nice layers nobody cares about

>> No.2506994

Wanted to try it because I have an under extrusion problem and the .4 never prints right
Ill go back and try it but eh

>> No.2506998

My God that tool head is a monstrosity. Let me guess the weight, 6 pounds?

>> No.2507011

you just need separate phone numbers, and no, the cashiers dgaf

>> No.2507012

Honestly, just looks bad. Only a little heavier than stock. Kind of like an exploded diagram version of what was there before. I did resonance testing and the thing that really slows it down is the bed. The head can go way faster with no problem, even with a heap of garbage on it.

If I ever get a Core XY, going to aim for light because that should be lightyears faster than a bedslinger with input shaping, just by design.

>> No.2507014

but I would go on separate days and/or bring someone with you

>> No.2507015

Big nozzles can make sense on printers that don't move very fast, because you can just push more plastic in fewer moves at the same speed. As long as the hotend and cooling can keep up, of course.

>> No.2507017

Why the underextrusion problem? Have you set your steps and calibrated? If you don't get the problem with a larger nozzle, then it shouldn't be the fan or the hotend. Should 100% be the extruder.

>> No.2507102
File: 55 KB, 800x599, 471BC872-4CB4-4BA4-B72D-E6D3DED4CA0E.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I’m trying to 3d print some mirrors for my car. They cost over 1k and are really rare so it takes forever to find them and get them shipped from Japan. I have the exterior designed but I’m a bit stuck on the part on the inside that lets you manually adjust the mirror. Anyone know if there are already files made of it? Or a what I should look at to reproduce. The original is super hard to get good detailed pictures of. Also most online are the electric kind so they aren’t helpful.

>> No.2507104

If you're committed, then maybe disassemble your one good mirror. Then you know for sure how it works and can take orthographic pictures of the internals to model with.

>> No.2507108

>Sunlu PLA white (I'm not liking it)
dont use while filament, its corrosive
>turn off power loss recovery
>this looks like a retraction problem so calibrate your esteps (lots of guides on it), and your flow rate (thats per filament calibration), and get a good profile (run the xyz calibration cube thing)
>and try vase mode.
If its just on the inside no one is going to care, or try simpler presents from thingiverse, because thats what i am doing.

>> No.2507110

there is so much wrong with this one, check if the slicer is set to 0.6mm instead of 0.4mm and get a better profile.
Do the usual routine of:
1. estep calibration
2. flow rate calibration
3. having the right profile
4. and turn down temp because thats a lot of stringing

why are you using a brim ? your print bed looks very fancy.

>> No.2507113

>Should 100% be the extruder.
Oh yes forgot this culprit too, add it to >>2507110
check for actual cracks on the extruder. Mine had broken and was giving no tension to the filament. the black does a good job of hiding it.
>under rated channel with over all great advice,

>> No.2507115
File: 379 KB, 1000x1000, le master cad drawing.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]


>> No.2507121

My mirror is a power mirror but I’m switching to these cause the power ones weigh a ton and look super ugly.
Thanku. I watched a couple videos but they weren’t like this one.

>> No.2507123

Any other assholes here use Klipper or Octoprint? Out of all the nonsense upgrades I've done, this is one I could never go back to factory on. Being able to adjust settings on the fly and have a cheap shit amazon webcam feeding me live video is just something I'm unwilling to do without.

Kinda feel I should have used some old smartphone or laptop instead of buying a Pi 4 though.

>> No.2507149

>Kinda feel I should have used some old smartphone or laptop instead of buying a Pi 4 though.
Why so you could have and ugly, outdated piece of technology kludged to the side of your printer? Or even worse, sitting next to it with an ugly cable? The Raspberry Pi is an elegant solution, it's just that prices were a bit high for a while, but they are starting to drop pretty fast.

>> No.2507158

what car is it anyway?

>> No.2507161
File: 3.30 MB, 4032x3024, 3B5C80E3-5778-48F2-A28C-DD5BAA2F58A0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Ae86. I’ve 3d printed quite a few small interior parts and now I’m moving on larger parts

>> No.2507172

hmmm bretty based
did the interior parts turn out ok?

>> No.2507173

The larger parts yes the smaller more delicate parts can’t handle being in a super hot car all day. Gonna switch to abs for those guys

>> No.2507174

As a professional CAD monkey, this is frankly insulting.

>> No.2507177

have you tried applying an anti-UV coat to them? not sure if it works on 3d printed parts but it works magic on carbon fibah

>> No.2507180

Haven’t thought about that but they’ve been failing even though i park in my garage. The California summer was really insane this year. Might help a bit tao

>> No.2507189

nta but my black PETG gps mount deformed in the sun. I switched to white and a solid infilled design and it's been better. My other PETG parts have been fine. Ive got another mount made of pla+ I'm expecting to melt once it's summer but prototyping in PETG sucks so I figure I'll sew what happens.

>> No.2507191

I printed some sun glass holders for my car and my car usually stays in the shade. The temperature inside the car, no matter what, fucks over PLA. The thing 'uncoiled' from the heat. I will retry with PETG because i dont think my humble 3v2 can handle ABS.

Also please share PETG and TPU profiles for E3v2 chat.

>> No.2507206

>dont use while filament, its corrosive
Abrasive, i know, but I need white, sorry.

I'll try your suggestions. Thanks.
I'm taking some time to perform some maintenance on the printer. Looks like the nozzle was quitete worn out and the brass extruder gear too. The z axis calibration is messed too. It prints 4% higher.

Everithing else looks fine, so I'll change the worn out parts, recalibrate everithing ans I will hope for the best.

>turn off power loss recovery
I'm using octoprint and I don't think my old E3 have loss recovery anyway. What should I do?

>> No.2507210

I think then you dont need to worry about that. I have never used octoprint (even bought a rpi, rpi camera and a spare tab to use it) so anons who do use it can tell you better.

if you take care of everything else like you listed before, please please please do e steps and flow rate calibration for your brand of filament, it helps a lot. if you are changing the extruder gear, you will need to do the e steps bydefault. Good luck anon. Post results. I have a few spare nozzles, some 0.6 and some 0.8mm. I think I might switch to those sometime too.

>> No.2507248
File: 26 KB, 400x400, 1663865243195285.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

my 3d printer is in transit guys! i'm gonna become a 3d printer chad just like you guys this week!

>> No.2507320

Perfect time to start learning CAD!

>> No.2507338

The T95 Android 10 4GB box for $35 on Amazon works a treat and has more than enough juice.

>> No.2507386

your z axis binds really hard

>> No.2507396

New nozzle and bowden tube.
Lubed all the bearings and cleaned all the surfaces, fand and so.
Moved the spool from the top of the printer to the side.
(it qust required me around an hour of work, I thought a lot worst)

I calibrated the axis and for some reasons I had to change Z from 419 to 401. X and Y are perfect and unchanged (80) since the beginning.
No clue why Z changed so much.

So, guys, don't underestimate maintenance! XD

I suggest you to start with fusion360

Don't save on filaments!

>> No.2507427

>Z from 419 to 401
>No clue why Z changed so much.
measuring error
each step is a certain ° rotation of the spindle. The spindle has an exact and uniform pitch averaged over its length. You can calculate that shit.
If it is off there is either flex in the system, you measured wrong or you are loosing steps. Those are all mechanical faults tho

>> No.2507428
File: 1.97 MB, 1600x580, boltdepot.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Got my screws in from Bolt Depot. Came extremely fast, I'll have to see where it shipped from.
All nicely packaged and feel so nice.

>> No.2507435
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>> No.2507437
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>> No.2507438
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>> No.2507439
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>> No.2507444

So, how do I prevent Hotend Corium?
Or should I get a non chinesium heatbreak?

>> No.2507445

me and ur mum lmao

>> No.2507492
File: 236 KB, 1059x653, 1666188110304.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Can somebody explain to me what is the best, cheapest hot end upgrade I can get for my original Ender 3?

I have already gotten a SKR Mini E3 V3 and a MKS Pi to convert the printer to run Klipper (still waiting on them tho). I will also do input shaping with the ADXL345.

Will pic related work for printing faster with a 0.4 or a 0.6 mm nozzle? I imagine I need to print some adapter bracket or whatever in order to get it to mount on the X axis carriage?

>> No.2507520

>only buy cheapest of chink shit pla
>fine tune until perfection
this is what i've done and im getting real good results
what will happen if i buy exclusive good brand (TM) PLA sourced from local sugar canes that buddhist monks harvest once every blue moon, will i notice any difference or is it actually a fucking scam?

>> No.2507549
File: 1.15 MB, 1006x644, shitassparts.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>Show us your failures edition
I am so fucking tired of my printer printing shitty parts I am so fucking tired of troubleshooting I'm just going to buy an X1 and call it a goddamn day

>> No.2507551

Fucking based, I thought about importing a older skyline and/or ae86 probably cheaper with fees than trying to buy one already here because "I kNoW wHaT I gOt"

Go ASA its more UV resistant.

>> No.2507556

I would buy a hotend from mellow, or trianglelabs on aliexpress, make sure its a all metal heatbreak that comes with it, V6 should be enough honestly, which ever is cheaper I guess.

But if you're on a budget
>chimera all metal heatbreak

works on the stock ender hotends if you have the red square looking one.

>> No.2507559
File: 57 KB, 1024x576, great post fren apu.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

cute boat anon

>> No.2507584
File: 1.40 MB, 827x679, shittygears.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

just look at these shitty gears

>> No.2507623
File: 65 KB, 573x678, monispent.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Hear me out:
Yes it's rebranded GST3D chinkshit
It's $9 per roll rebranded GST3D chinkshit
how bad could it be

>> No.2507630
File: 15 KB, 613x414, pidtune.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I've never run a pidtune.
Do I need to?

>> No.2507633

It gets your stuff to heat up the fastest and most efficiently for like 10 minutes of effort so DEW IT

>> No.2507637

If the composition and filament diameter are consistent, that's really all that matters. All I usually have to do when swapping between brands is fiddle with the temp it likes best, none of my other settings.

>> No.2507697

What makes the voron so expensive?
I wanted to diy a 3d printer from scratch but i dont see how the cost gets in the 1600+ range

>> No.2507724

I got with a Formbot 2.4 kit for just a hair over $1000 for the kit, plus paid $45 for a blemished functional printed parts kit off the discord. You don't actually have to spend very much unless you want the absolute best of everything.

>> No.2507737

You can get an LDO 250mm Trident kit for $1300 that basically has the best of everything. Add $50 in the cost of filament to print all the parts yourself.

>> No.2507763

It’s not for getting your bed and nozzle up to temp faster, but let the printer keep your set temperatures as accurate as possible.

>> No.2507791


>> No.2507792


Someone should make something like a printable check list for daily maintenance, monthly maintenance and long term maintenance because these are precision machines that are very sensitive to change and not that robust. So stuff like PID tuning, e steps, flow rate, belt tensin setting etc.

I can get behind this but i will need help from all of yous. And please sticky that website where you can get your custom marlin from. I dont know what the "A" type stepper motor is so i am stuck there lmao.

>> No.2507793
File: 716 KB, 2576x1709, PXL_20221122_044031201~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Any of you poorfags get one of these mailers? I didn't think so!

>> No.2507794

How many boosters did you get ?

>> No.2507796
File: 843 KB, 2483x1660, PXL_20221122_044051601.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

It's hard to believe it, but for the price of ONLY 100 Vorons/Bambu X1s, this take up the better part of your apartment!

>> No.2507800

Zero injections, please show me a non-globohomo'd phone.

>> No.2507802

>digits confirm
>using a phone
>in todays day and age and digital landscape

If they are really industrial and focused on 'large sized' prints, why stop at 1mm nozzles ? why not go all the way to idk 1,5 mm or make new filament for bigger prints because this will be too fucking slow otherwise.

>> No.2507803

There's no way I would consider a machine that expensive unless it did that single continuous carbon coextrusion thing. But then I'm not considering one that expensive at all, because you could buy a warehouse full of lovingly used CNC mills for that.

>> No.2507805

How the fuck is that worth 129,995? You could build an entire sealed ball screw driven printer for like 4k.

>> No.2507806

I guess that's just the industrial grade upcharge. Probably costs an arm and a leg to fix too, with a technician flown out to your place like the HAAS guys do.

>> No.2507810

>doesn't even have a tool changer

>> No.2507811
File: 634 KB, 2384x1555, PXL_20221122_050658118.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

The vacuum fixtures build plate probably contributes a fair amount to the price.

>> No.2507816
File: 568 KB, 2293x1482, PXL_20221122_050538074.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

What? No, it has two nozzles in one head, and it looks like it raises the one not in use a bit so you don't detach pieces of your four foot long Articulated Lizard v2 with dissolvable supports.
(Pic not related)

>> No.2507821
File: 88 KB, 894x894, DuAGJZ7WwAIDO3T.jfif.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]


>> No.2507826

dangerously kino

>> No.2507827

>why stop at 1mm nozzles
Its just whats commonly supported as the largest size in most slicers.

The point of this machine is to make parts out of PEEK. And the only reason you'd use such a filament is because whatever you're trying to make needs to be complex and extremely strong, so with that build volume 1mm is a good high point in terms of resolution.

>> No.2507838

not really on a budget, but I don't want to pay 150 euros+ for a revo hotend holy shit

would that v6 I posted work + I can get a bimetallic heat break?

>> No.2507843

V6 hotend works for everything, all hotends since then are cosmetic upgrades for the most part..

>> No.2507850

worth a kek!

>> No.2507861

Should I get the all metal version of this?


Also kinda tempted to try the copper plated heat block:


Also, is this the correct triangle labs store on Ali?

>> No.2507882

Been having some trouble with my resin printer with mid to large sized parts. Anycubic Photon, 0.02mm layer height, 1.6s exposure time, calibration parts print fine. But once I do any sort of larger solid part I get this weird glossy looking surface finish as if the resin isn't cured. Things I've tried,
>replacing the IPA used to clean my parts
>increasing cleaning time up to 8 minutes (anycubic cleaning station)
>let the part completely dry off before starting the curing process
>cured for up to 15 minutes
Things I'm going to try
>scrubbing the part with a brush in addition to the 8min cleaning cycle
>a new resin, currently using anycubics plant based grey

Am I on the right path here? Search engines suck massive amounts of dick these days and I'm left with the same fuckin useless results no matter what I type in. I'll get a pic up this afternoon after work to better show what I mean

>> No.2507901

Is PWM on part cooling fans/blower actually just a meme? Tested on a mk3s head and an stealthburner, both PLA and PETG my nicest prints were in all 4 setups those with part cooling cranked to 100%.

>> No.2507931


For an ender 3? I have seen some people use that setup, but I personally haven't. I recall herome gen7 does support it as well.

Either one should be fine, I have v6 all metal on two printers so I can't weigh in on the volcano.

>> No.2507980

>and not that robust
My makergear M2 is 6 years old and I have never run e-steps, PID tune and there's no auto bed-leveling.
Good printers are good.
Bad printers are bad.

>> No.2508010
File: 237 KB, 302x553, 657.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I bought a used ender 3 about a month ago for my first printer. I added a bl touch then had to buy a new main board, so I got the silent board for it. I'm using prusaslicer with pretty much stock settings and for the most part most of my prints come out pretty decent other than these pimples I get on the first dozen or so layers. I'm using PLA+ with the manufacturers recommendations of 220 nozzle and 60 bed temps.
how do I get rid of these bumps anons?

>> No.2508051

yes it's for an non v2 Ender 3.

I imagine that the original one is all-metal as well? Because apart from the all-metal variant on Ali, there is a PTFE lined one and a 4.1 mm bore one that allows you to push the bowden tube all the way in, which seems completely retarded.

I have a custom fan duct that supports the V6 and the Volcano, so I should be good? Do I need an adapter bracket or something in order to get it to mount where the old hot end mounts I imagine?

>> No.2508102

I’ve never heard of ASA I’ll try it. I would say just buy one here. Importing is such a hassle and jdm/right hand drive makes getting certain parts harder cause you have to get it from Japan and can’t source it from other places. For example a dash is going to cost you insane money having to find and import. Plus the gauge cluster isn’t going to work with usdm ones so you’ll have to learn how to work on the electronics if you ever need to fix it with American parts.

>> No.2508131

Is it a bad idea to take my plate off and hold it over a fan or something to cool it quicker?
I normally just let it cool on its own but I'm printing under a schedule for the next few days

>> No.2508141

As long as it's boroscillicate you can throw that bitch in the freezer and you'll hear the part pop in a minute or two

>> No.2508145

I guess I should've specified what kinda plate, it's a textured flexible PEI sheet

>> No.2508152

Why can't you just pop the parts off an let it cool?
Heatbed so hot it deforms when you try to do it?

>> No.2508155

I thought you're not supposed to pop hot PETG parts off of textured PEI or it'll mess with the print surface?

>> No.2508157

No the thing about PETG and PEI/glass is that you don't wanna print PETG on a clean, flat surface. PEI first came in nice flat sheets and people would print PETG directly to it and PETG would just rip the sheet off because it stuck so well.
You still needed to use glue or hairspray as a "releasing agent" so the PETG didn't fuse to the bed.
So they came out with textured PEI, which you can print PETG straight to and pop off without worry. Textured PEI is really the easiest catch-all for filaments, other than when you want a glossy bottom finish or whatever reason then you'd use the smooth side.

>> No.2508193

humidity maybe?

>> No.2508198

If you're talking to someone about 3d printing and they suggest either of these two things to address your issue, then they have absolutely zero fucking idea what they're doing and probably just should have bought a prusa:

1. Calibrate your e-steps
2. Dry your filament

>> No.2508233
File: 265 KB, 1044x990, printForError.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

So I recently got my Ender 3 and I want to try to print a miniature from KOF XV (Leona). I exported model from game along with animation frame that I want to use, but when I try to import it inside Cura it says that there could be some error, I'm not sure what error is supposed to be and since print will take around 40 hours I don't want to start and only realize at the end that I fucked up.
.blend and .stl files on the following link:

>> No.2508245
File: 259 KB, 1198x899, IMG_1737.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

as promised, see pic related. There's a sheen on all the surfaces. Can't get that dead matte look that I see in all promo pics. I'm also aware of the surface defects, I think I'll lower my z speed to help with that.

The idea is to sell limited runs of 3d printed kits and/or STLs to my fellow 1/35 scale modelers. We're a prickly bunch so overall part quality matters.

>> No.2508261
File: 242 KB, 461x370, Screenshot_20221122_150209.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

You've got parts of the character that aren't closed up or "manifold"

>> No.2508265

Total noob here, what filament can safely be exposed to ethanol, gasoline, and temperatures up to roughly 100 degrees celsius?

>> No.2508302
File: 310 KB, 1024x768, bd3dp.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>> No.2508307

Bad Dragon?

>> No.2508319
File: 306 KB, 469x456, 658.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

thanks anon, but I'm pretty sure it's not humidity. here's a box I printed last week. it's almost 4" tall and none of the pimples anywhere past the first 1/4".

I tried turning my extruder temp up on a print I'm doing now to see if maybe that's the culprit. I had issues before with the bottom layers peeling up but solved that issue by getting a new magnetic printer bed.

>> No.2508354

Original one? If you mean your first link just select all metal.

If you are talking about the original hotend the red one on creality printers, no, its not. The PTFE tub goes all the way to the nozzle, thats why I said if you want to keep the original red hotend, buy a chimera all metal heatbreak.

anyways, you will need a mount on the collar of the hotend

Thats for v6 or volcano. You obviously don't need to use it, just an example.

>> No.2508356

Did you try different exposure times?

>> No.2508357

yes, with a calibration stl. 1.5-1.6s gives best results for them. Smaller parts also turn out fine

>> No.2508366

Calibrate your e-steps, and dry your filament, you fucking cretin.

>> No.2508418

Oh my god. Why is this hobby so fucking trash?
Why the fuck is there no straightforward link and instructions to how to update the firmware on a new board? Why do I have to spend 30 minutes googling this shit when it should be done by the fucking vendor?

>> No.2508436
File: 660 KB, 920x950, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Anybody know where I can find a bootleg/rip of the model for these bolter bitch crusaders? I don't want to shell out 20 dollars for a friend's tabletop marker

>> No.2508442


>> No.2508443

No refundu, gweilo!

>> No.2508448

That doesn't tell me SHIT.

Joke's on you. I make a living working on shitty Chineseum components. I figured it out and am currently printing a calibration test to see.

>> No.2508465

Prease pay repair fee to continur usages.

>> No.2508487
File: 1.04 MB, 920x657, bfggfj.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Well, quality is about 90-95% as good as it was before I swapped boards, and now the thing is fucking silent. I call that a win.

I just need to figure out how to smooth those layer lines out now...

>> No.2508496

Lol you never will

>> No.2508515
File: 1.77 MB, 516x342, sweating-gif-ted-stryker-airplane.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>trying to build a 3d printer for the first time without instructions

>> No.2508532

>Landlords hate this one simple trick to burn their house down!

>> No.2508581

>get the CR-10 printer
>set it all up
>get to leveling the bed
>problems start
>nozzle keeps digging into bed despite hours of trying to fuck with the adjustment screws, doesn't matter how many times i screw with it, because the nozzle keeps getting too low and hitting the bed
>try to do a test print (the bed test print) in hopes it'll help
>printer shits the bed, doesn't even start even after it finishes heating up
>spend five straight hours trying to figure this out
can anyone help? i'm an actual legit retard and i've poured hours trying to figure out what to do

>> No.2508582

adjust your z-endstop/z offset

>> No.2508606

hello, anyone here?

>yes, I heated everything up before assembling the hotend/heatbreak/nozzle

or has no one ever touched his printer except for changing the filament rolls?

>> No.2508608

is that a volcano heat block?

>> No.2508610
File: 457 KB, 2048x1339, 1647461247366.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I don't know fuck all, I just post Prusa™ memes.

>> No.2508611

yep, the Anycubic Vyper stock Volcano clone

nice, I just stole this meme™ and saved it for free!

>> No.2508637

Git clone Marlin and configs repos
Copy your config to your marlin-branch/Marlin folder
Edit platformio.ini
Pip install platformio
Platformio run builds the firmware
Platformio run --target clean guess what that does

>> No.2508640

did you assemble it correctly? it looks like the heatbreak isn't all the way in

>> No.2508659
File: 92 KB, 784x1000, Happy wojak.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

i did it guys! i built the 3d printer that came today! its printing the example model as we speak, might post a picture of it next year when it finishes

>> No.2508678

didn't get answer last thread so I'll try one more time, anyone have experience / tips building a voron v0?

>> No.2508695
File: 338 KB, 1242x1689, 1663032048702319.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I clean my nozzle by holding it with pliers while I blast it with a torch until it turns red and then drop the nozzle in a bowl of water, blasting out any burnt or dried filament instantly.
This makes redditors and trannies seethe endlessly while they break the 50th "nozzle cleaner" in their nozzle.
This is my face.
I stole that beanie.

>> No.2508718

The first layer is too close to the bed or the gantry isn't moving upwards the required amount during the first few mm. Filament is fine, check which one it is and fix it.

>> No.2508719

Very based. I'm more of a "fuck cleaning, it can do its job dirty" kind of guy though.

>> No.2508729

Try reducing the bed temp after the 1st layer.

>> No.2508731

based but i want to shill blowtorching the shit out of your nozzle
you go to walmart
you get the $15 ez starter for a butane torch
you get the $8 can of butane
And have the most cathartic ASMR cleaning process you could ask for in 3dprinting.
There's just something about it being redhot, dropped into the water where you first hear the instant and higher pitched "PSEOWRTT" which them dissolves into a slower repetition of gurgles.

>> No.2508735

>you get the $15 ez starter for a butane torch
Or I can just use the 0$ option of roasting it on the gas stove.

>> No.2508736


>> No.2508737

>portable fire
But that's what the printer is for.

>> No.2508739

galaxybrain-sama, I kneel

>> No.2508746

Did you home Z before leveling?

>> No.2508756

...bump? Surely someone in here knows or can at least tell me how to figure it out myself

>> No.2508758
File: 29 KB, 840x840, 6524_trw.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]


And more than enough to make your nozzle red hot.

Anyway, making metals red hots can mess with crystalline structure, can mess the alloy and superficial treatments. Terjal shocks can create problems too.
In short: don't.

Melted plastic behave kind of a liquid, so you just need a tissue to wipe the nozzle clean.

>> No.2508760

>Melted plastic behave kind of a liquid
it's as if when things melt they become a liquid

>> No.2508762

>This makes redditors and trannies seethe endlessly while they break the 50th "nozzle cleaner" in their nozzle.

>> No.2508763


Formfutura Volcano PLA is stated to be able to sustain more than 95°C once annealed.
PLA should be able to sustain ethanol and maybe gasoline but I don't know for how long.

That said, 3D printed objects are not really suited to contain liquids and sustain high temperature, nor to be used for critical application because of common brittle failures.

I can't figure out your aim, but I can guess it's not a good idea.

>> No.2508769

It's to make an adapter from my car's carburetors to the air filters. They won't contain any fluids, just be very lightly misted in them. They won't reach anywhere near 100 degrees celsius (no higher than 60 I imagine) but I want a solid safety margin.

>> No.2508772


Lots of plastics (PLA is one) behave like glass. They are not solid nor liquid, but amorphous materials. Once "melted", past the glass transition temperature, they are viscous liquid.

PLA is able to wet a tissue, so in the context "behave like a liquid". It can also "wet" the nozzle, but it can "wet" the tissue more than the nozzle, so you can clean one with the other.
Glass can't soak tissues, and it wouldn't even be able to wet your nozzle.

In few words, you are a bit retarded, or trolling.

>> No.2508775

Any ETA when the X1 is available and no longer pre-order?

>> No.2508776

I'll wet your nozzle daddy.
Shitpost aside I think one of us is misunderstanding the other and I'm not sure which. You say melted plastics behave like liquid, which stands to reason since if it melted it is by definition a liquid.

>> No.2508794
File: 67 KB, 680x368, FiG8qMRXEBEsdt7.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>guess what that does
How about no?
Fuck off with that windowlicking CS crap.
I just needed to be handed a file and told how to get it onto my printer. All this bullshit for autistic fucks that do everything the hard way and think anyone else that doesn't live and breath their niche hobby to the same degree can fuck right off.

It's the bane of all technology. Linux might actually be a viable replacement for windows if those autistic fucks that use it would just get their shit together and deploy a good, stable distro instead of insisting that every user have hundreds of hours to spend learning to tweak theirs.

Same for motors and microcontrollers and all kinds of shit.

>> No.2508798 [DELETED] 
File: 7 KB, 536x503, corner.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Broke it a few months ago and managed to put it back together with glue and duct tape, but it's bottom right corner piece fell off and I lost it. How do I go about replacing it/filling up the space, so it looks like it's not missing? It doesn't need to be perfect by any means. I was thinking about buying clay, sculpting it to the right form, coloring it, and gluing it back at the frame, but don't know what glue I should use if it's clay. Please give me advice and other suggestions to fix the frame.

>pic for reference

>> No.2508806

PLA just kinda evaporates. Don't even have to get it red hot, but, yea, quenching doesn't seem like a good idea

>> No.2508815

diybros, just got into printing and looking at cad modeling programs Im sure I cant afford to pay 2.5k Euro for a loicence, how tf do I get into without paying that absurd amount of money?

>> No.2508817

>how tf do I get into without paying that absurd amount of money?
Ever heard of PirateBay?

>> No.2508820

>quenching doesn't seem like a good idea
meanwhile in reality it doesnt do shit to brass
and dont pretend leaded chink brass with not even reamed boreholes is some kind of fancy part and super alloy

>> No.2508827
File: 47 KB, 545x612, egvfedrfbgdfbhsdfgh.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]



>> No.2508834


Honestly it has improved, and its free you wouldn't be out of any money to try it out.

>> No.2508836

are you mentally handicapped

>> No.2508842

fusion 360 is free anyway

>> No.2508851

If you consider "paying with your data" as free then yes.

>> No.2508882

Brass gets softer when quenched

>> No.2508884

the term your are looking for is malleable
it also gets malleable again simply cooling from red hot with ambient air.
they also do not work harden the hex stock in the first place before turning it down so that discussion is pretty retard to have to begin with.
your point?

>> No.2508929

ligma deez balls lmfao gottem

>> No.2508940

You can get a yearly license of Solidworks for $20
You "sign up" for Titans of CNC classes, and then they have an educational loicense you can use.
Solidworks is comfy, Fusion360 a shit.

>> No.2508943

just use a disposable email with fake data newfag

>> No.2508958
File: 77 KB, 734x794, 1668615987400656.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

No, but seriously, GO FUCK YOURSELF.
I put a tempered steel gear puller on the motherfucker AND THE GRIP SLIPPED BEFORE THE FUCKING GEAR CAME OFF.

What the fuck is this bullshit?! The internet the full of stories of people struggling with these piece of shit gears. The best way to get them off seems to be hooking the gear with a hammer claw and then hitting that hammer with another hammer. But that didn't fucking work for me so now I'm using fucking complex machinery AND IT'S STILL NOT FUCKING WORKING.


>> No.2508996

Because people like you buy it anyway, you are truly the one to blame here! There is not an alternative either.

>> No.2509009
File: 354 KB, 432x338, ragadhafgjsfgkjsdgyhkdghkdgh.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]


Nobody fucking warned me that they were this shit before I bought it!

>> No.2509010

filtered by a set screw

>> No.2509020

whos wants to tell him they do this stuff very much like tighting your nozzle on the heat block to do it while theyre hot (expand) a couple seconds with a blowtorch it will slide right off

>> No.2509025
File: 63 KB, 850x806, d84367f45a2526e5691aebe17bb692d9.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]


I'm almost certain most/all of them are press fit, not shrink fit. There's no reason to make them shrink fit, and it's more/time money to do it that way.

I think this dude just can't work a gear puller properly.

>> No.2509033
File: 133 KB, 890x1024, 1583748678558.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>tfw this other brand-new-ender-3 anon is having a meltdown while my print went perfectly fine
i don't want to make him feel even worse but i don't think that's possible at this point

>> No.2509034
File: 588 KB, 736x554, 20221123-48fa12.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

freed mine in ~5min of dremel cutting wheel no force cept a bit of scratches can always just buy another nema14 stepper

>> No.2509036

i only did this cause i had to see for myself and i already have replacement in the mail probably arrive tomorrow

>> No.2509106

i'm thinking of installing a tpu gasket and/or shield around my extruder stepper and around the filament entrance to prevent dust ingress
maybe a toothbrush holder to wipe off the gears too

my coworker's printer (forget what it is, maybe a crx pro) had red loctite holding its extruder gear on.

>> No.2509121

A couple seconds with a Bic lighter and it slides right off.

>> No.2509126
File: 387 KB, 688x292, ahswjtsyjty.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

It does not even have one! They just clamped the motherfucker on there!

Fuck you, no it doesn't. Go search anywhere on the topic and half the replies are people saying, "I tried hitting it with a torch/heat gun/lighter and it didn't make any difference!"

The only solution is V I O L E N C E.

>I think this dude just can't work a gear puller properly.
It was a combination of only having an automotive gear puller on hand that was slightly too big for the job, plus the gear itself being made of fucking silly putty and deforming under the slightest pressure, causing the puller to slip.

Baby, honey, sweetheart my prints were going just fine, too. I had maxed out the capabilities of the stock Ender 3. The only path to improvement was to upgrade and modify it. I started with a silent board. Then I did an all-metal extruder. Next I'll add an automatic leveler, then a better metal heat break. Finally, I'll get around to setting up octoprint so I can record my prints and control them remotely.

After I've done all of that, I'll look at dual extrusion for soluble supports and multicolor prints.

>pic related

I was tempted but I didn't have a good place to throw metal shavings. My penthouse didn't come with a workshop and the garage is 63 floors down.

>my coworker's printer (forget what it is, maybe a crx pro) had red loctite holding its extruder gear on.
Fucking cursed.

>> No.2509127

>thinking of installing a tpu gasket and/or shield around my extruder stepper and around the filament entrance to prevent dust ingress
Why reinvent the filament filter? https://www.printables.com/model/255554-filament-dust-cleaner-filter-print-in-place

>> No.2509129

I want a thin something to go after the extruder gears. It's the bits of filament that the gears chew off that I'm trying to stop getting down and clogging the bowden tube.

>> No.2509154

>My penthouse
well la-dee-da mr city slicker

>> No.2509203

well you see chinks pride themselves on cutting corners sourcing cheaper replacement chips and other parts to fuck over customers and save themselves a buck to go eat sewer fried dog and if peoples extruders were skipping constistently that would be a bigger problem for them

>> No.2509269
File: 31 KB, 509x436, gheybed.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I'm printing a glock right now. I installed the bed level visualizer in my octoprint and I didn't realize how fucked up my bed level was. Things seem to be going good now that I'm 33 hours into a print but I printed it rails down with total support so I guess I won't see till it's done and peel all this shit off of it if leveling the bed out fixed my issue or not

>> No.2509281

If I wanted to add a rotary encoder to this macro pad print would I want to route the grounded wire for it along the wire being used across all the normal keys? In every guide I notice they all use one wire length for that and then separate wires for the other

>> No.2509303


>> No.2509307
File: 463 KB, 1920x1080, e4950a7c52fc074ab878fae2b55c258e.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Who said I lived in a city?
That's where peasants are. Disgusting.

>> No.2509308
File: 1.30 MB, 1471x3635, 20221124_084745.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>struggling with warping prints
>blue tape delaminating from bed
>switch rolls
>same thing
>fire off overnight print anyway
>"it'll be fine"
the worst part is I could have fucking checked it. actually the worst part is I don't know why my rolls of tape are suddenly shit tier. pls no bully

>> No.2509365

What would you guys recommend as far as very fast FDM printers? I don't need to print nylon or anything, but being able to make a lot of decently sized parts fast is important for me.

>> No.2509408

delta are fast and anything with like linear rails that arent belt and v slot shits like enders also a big hotend/nozzle like a volcano (bigger hotzone)

>> No.2509417

What do you mean "tape"?? What tape???

>> No.2509421

some people still use tape and glue sticks for adhesions for some reason ive never had issues i couldnt fix by tweaking the bed heat settings and i have smooth spring steal build plate

>> No.2509425

well if that guy is using tape for adhesion to such an extent that he's questioning the quality of his "rolls of tape" when shit falls off, then he's asking the wrong questions. The cheapest printers around come with beds one can easily print on without needing tape or glue or whatever.

the right question would be "how do I print without needing to use tape to get proper adhesion?"
Good lord... tape
my sides

>> No.2509429

Lowering extrusion temp, upping bed temp, and blocking drafts could all help

>> No.2509439
File: 434 KB, 899x899, dedgs1k-376288c3-03b0-47ed-966b-44cbdb50b357.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]


Mamma mia, he does not-a know about the spaghetti!

>> No.2509449

Thanks anon. I will probably spring for a FLSun v400 then.

>> No.2509455

huh. it has gotten colder, very cold this week and inside temp hasn't kept up. funny I thought about this but never translated it to my warping problem.

>> No.2509458
File: 126 KB, 498x280, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

perfect for dildos

>> No.2509508
File: 2.54 MB, 1024x2768, macropad.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Finished a new pad

>> No.2509547
File: 2.57 MB, 3000x2960, ColecoVision-Controller-FR[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]


>> No.2509548

Is that a uterus with ovaries symbol?

>> No.2509552
File: 89 KB, 800x800, 2Q==.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]


>> No.2509567
File: 3.27 MB, 4032x3024, 71E3CA16-06FF-4ED6-91D8-43CC16A74AA6.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Mirror for the 86 was a success. Slightly bigger than I needed so I’ll be sizing it down slightly.

>> No.2509571

It's an obscure and even more autistic version of the mandalorian sigil

>> No.2509637
File: 453 KB, 3000x4000, 3dprintedwhore.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

How do you guys take off supports for resin prints? I've been doing hot water soaks and it seems to have the best results from what I've seen. Also, is Prusa too fucking Jewish to do black friday sales this year?

>> No.2509656 [DELETED] 
File: 72 KB, 640x853, fmdwpqa6qc171.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>just cut myself with a fucking putty knife trying to remove a print
Jesus fucking Christ do I feel retarded. It stopped bleeding but does it look like I need stitches?

>> No.2509660

what in the literal fuck am I looking at?

>> No.2509669
File: 37 KB, 577x431, fhgdajgfjfgt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>Also, is Prusa too fucking Jewish to do black friday sales this year?
>Do krauts not celebrate American holidays??

>> No.2509671

>prusa have been giving out black friday sales for the past 4 years
>suddenly stop
Yeah, what's up with that?

>> No.2509686

Are genuine E3D nozzles worth the cost over chinesiums that are 1/5 the price?

>> No.2509699

whats a decent 300 dollar 3d scanner? friend has a revopoint and it seems decent enough

>> No.2509700


Can i use this to make 3d printed knoif/other metal parts that's actually functional?

>> No.2509703

For stock settings on basic materials, not really. For abrasive materials, high temp materials, or high flow applications, a good nozzle suited to the task can make a big difference. E.g. a CHT nozzle can about double the max volumetric flow rate all else equal, a gem nozzle can last hundreds of times as long as brass when printing carbon fiber.

>> No.2509710

A well-tuned Voron, particularly a Zero.

Or one of these for something stock.

>> No.2509711

>935 k3 style mirrors
too fucking based anon, keep it up

>> No.2509717

Painters tape keeps the bed clean you jackass. It's not for print adhesion but it can help with removal.

>> No.2509719

pla sticks very well to the back of masking tape

>> No.2509729

Just buy a glass bed and a glue stick. You have already lost more money in filament then the price of the glass

>> No.2509745
File: 976 KB, 1159x1125, spongebob screaming.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>trying to learn 3d printing, 3d modelling on fusion360, carbon fibre laminating and mould making, graphic design and trying to keep track of the stock market all at the same time while looking for a new apartment to move into in a different city and trying to organise the 2 day drive there

>> No.2509751

Eat well, exercise, and get a good night's sleep.

>> No.2509754
File: 600 KB, 500x500, 1667016579229119.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I just came into some money recently and can finally afford a second printer.

What is a good one right now with a big build size? Enough for a helmet.

>> No.2509762

>filament doesn't stick to bed no matter what i do
new bed it is

>> No.2509766
File: 392 KB, 1611x960, IMG_20220908_113210.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

sup printfags, how would you print ballistic body armor?

>> No.2509767

What filament and what bed?

>> No.2509768

Use resin/filament with sinterable ballistic cermic/steel.

>> No.2509773

can you print with epoxy resin nowadays?

>> No.2509775


>> No.2509779

PLA+ and standard ender 3 bed

>> No.2509799

I have a glass bed. The heat transfer is sub-optimal.

>> No.2509801

1. sell everything that doesn't fit in your car
2. thank me later
t. moved states 3 times

>> No.2509802

Bambu X1 carbon

print mold, mold body armor. please don't shoot anyone who doesn't deserve anon.

>> No.2509820

Stocks and crypto will be bearish until (at least) late 2024 to early 2025, so you can check that off your list until then.

>> No.2509822
File: 139 KB, 600x415, 5ef2648dce4beezD7sSc3Zp_6MtXgFpXpgAFYNeGX2wqN46jSk_600.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Image of me ignoring my 8 year old printer's weird cries, skrrts, and clicks as long as it keeps banging out good prints.
I don't need more
but I do want an X1 Carbon

>> No.2509823

Well la-de-da lord cumshit

>> No.2509830

show nozzle used if theres large gaps between the nozzle and heatbreak afaik this is the result asin if youre using a volcano hotend you need a volcano nozzle (those long threaded ones)

>> No.2509831


>> No.2509843

Whatever happened to that anker "prints 500% faster" printer?

>> No.2509895

I have a preorder slot paid for, supposed to be Dec 5th. I'm waffling between sweating the price tag and every video saying x1 carbon has to be the greatest FDM printer ever made. Multi-color and dissovable supports make my benis hard but fml it's a chunk of change.

>> No.2509903

Convince me not to buy a P1P and sell my Pruss when it arrives.

>> No.2509911

I've convinced myself I need to create something people would buy that I'd need an X1 for before I buy it.
My secondary motive is by that time, a cheaper clone may have come out or at the very least, any issues it has have been figured out and I'll get a v 1.2 or something

>> No.2509912

You could probably even make a $50 profit or more if you sell it locally new in box.

>> No.2509916


>> No.2509918

I already caved and bought a preorder, I guess I can always cancel before it ships in January if I change my mind

>> No.2509937
File: 240 KB, 1328x747, 20221125_163424.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Tips on fixing the edges? I imagine this is related to the acceleration.

>> No.2509938

Voron 2.4 350mm, or if you want something really special look into a VZbot. The Bambu X1 like another anon mentioned is nice too, but soulless and assembled by child slaves who are chained to a table.

>> No.2509939

No. You'd have to try casting, and even then it wouldn't be as good as forging.

>> No.2509940

Set the fan to come on at layer 4 if you haven't already. Otherwise maybe look into a bed adhesion promoter, unless that is ABS in which case clean your plate with dish soap.

>> No.2509941
File: 232 KB, 1328x747, 20221125_163248.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Maybe the picture wasn't the best, but it still has perfect adheshion, it's just that the lines go a little bit up near the edges. I suspect it's due to it slowing down or speeding up on the other direction after it hits the edge.

>> No.2509950

Oh, on the infill by the edges? Could be a Pressure Advance thing (sometimes called Linear Advance), not sure how to set that on an Ender, but I think Cura has that now, and I believe all the Slic3r variants have it too. You also might have the Line Overlap set too high, I believe default is 5%, although I use 8% on my DD extruder.
Before you try all that though, make sure you aren't over extruding, i.e. you get exactly 100mm of filament when you ask it to do 100mm.

>> No.2509951

One last thing: the first layer can be a little weird since you can have varying amounts of squish depending on your z-offset, so if it doesn't do that on your top layers id just call it good, of you can raise your Z by a cunt hair or two. It's only the first layer though, so it will be invisible unless you like printing single layer wall art.

>> No.2509953

Resin printers are gr8

>> No.2509955

What are the best resin printer sales today?

>> No.2509957

Already have a modded direct drive, all metal hotend Ender 3 v2. Planning on getting a second printer soon, but idk if I want to get a Resin, or a dual headed FDM printer w/ larger build area (eyeing up the Sovol sv04)

>> No.2509991
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I installed a new dual gear feeder. I also printed a new filament shield/guide to prevent it to touch the greasy rod.
After E calibration everything is spot on!

I'll print a new lamp between sunday and monday and we will see.

>> No.2509996


There are two possibilities: you are using your 3D printer to do practical things or you are into into 3D printer as a hobby.
In the first case: try to understand your needs and pursuit them. Speed, precision/quality, size,
In the second case go resin. Just to try something different.

I have an ender 3. I would like to have a delta wasp.

>> No.2509999

>buy a cnc paper cutter for $130
>print my model one layer of paper at a time
>0.003 mm layer height
>clamp together and pour wood glue through holes cut through model
Convince me this method wouldn't be a billion times better than plastic 3d printing

>> No.2510003
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>> No.2510004

I've done a little of everything. Currently designing functional parts to put together a modular atx dimension board for mounting sbc's in a regular pc tower. But most of my usage has been hobbyist level, just printing off knick-knacks for friends.
Really leaning towards the dual headed printer, just because I wouldn't have to worry about dealing w/ god awful supports anymore.
But I also kind want to print off nsfw whores at some point, and resin would be best for that. I'll probably go with a dual head first, I guess.
is the Sovol sv04 decent for its price range, or are there other dual headed printers I should be looking at in the ~$500 range?

>> No.2510025

Thickness of normal paper is about 0.1 to 0.2mm. You can get thinner stuff, but it would probably be more expensive.
Think about assembly. By hand? how do you position it? holes for pins/rods, ...
A lot of leftovers.
And it already exist(ed?): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DRJ2oUK4-E

>> No.2510029

You must hate yourself

>> No.2510034

Could be a Touhou fan. Those folks are kinda obsessive.

>> No.2510060
File: 114 KB, 640x960, 1425751635057.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Just bought a anycubic vyper. I hope I will make things that are actually useful and not fucking models.

>> No.2510067

The best part about making useful things is that filament lasts forever because you don't feel compelled to print stuff.
You design what you need then print it out
However if you want to blow through the 10 rolls of filament you got through the $100 deal between Fremover or ILLDMax and do something for your mom who's into sewing and crafts, you can go print out that gridfinity stuff so she'll have organizers for all the thimbles and thobbins and whatever the hell else she gets high off of.
I had an anycubic vyper and really enjoyed it.
Sent it back before the return window was closed because I was suspect about it's longetivity. I had a printer where I broke a part and decided to buy a new printer, but felt the shame of being able to fix it yet not fixing it.
Miss that bed leveling though.

>> No.2510068
File: 302 KB, 1600x1600, 15139_R-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

holy fucking lithium grease batman, never heard the term less is more

>> No.2510088

Imagine if they put that effort into something worthwhile, like spreading antisemitism.

>> No.2510095
File: 1.76 MB, 1425x838, 10dollafilament.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I love cheap $10 filament
It's great for just banging out stuff like this that would be more expensive than buying cheap plastic shit off Amazon with $18 filament.

>> No.2510135

What's your prefered starter hot end for a voron kit? And do you like one over the other? I saw one kit 10% off and need to decide to pull the trigger tomorrow

I am looking to upgrade my capabilities from my Ender 3 Thesus edition, cause I need something a bit less twitchy/felxable for engineering consulting/getting something that shows off more industrial heritage/more USA made componets.

Theseus is still going to get heavy use at home, and probably printing upgrades over time

>> No.2510140
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>says cool it with the antisemitic remarks
>is the biggest antisemite of them all
wow he really is... an american psycho™

>> No.2510177
File: 128 KB, 800x800, 20221125_214127.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

harder than i thought to design an action figure

>> No.2510184

V6 works fine to start, but I went with a Dragon HF for the one handed nozzle changing, and the fact that a Voron can easily outrun just about any hotend ESPECIALLY when you are running a 0.6mm or 0.8mm nozzle. There might be better ones now, but I haven't bothered to look elsewhere in the year I've been using it since it has been working so well.

>> No.2510186

I've been debating about getting a 3d printer for a while now, and I figure since cyber Monday is coming up, it's a good time.
I'd made some notes about different models and I'd basically decided on a voxelab aquila x2. they're like 160$. one concern I had was about the chip they use. people talk about it having an H32 chip which means it's incompatible with some modding shit and that you want an N32 one.
I think it's a crapshoot but people say you can just send back your H32 one and try again.
they do sell an "S2" model for 180$ which has the N32 chip.
I don't know how much that matters or if that's worth paying for.
I'm not against dicking around with the machine to get it "excellent", but Ive been hesitating on buying one at all because there are a ton of opinions to sift through.
what do you think I ought to do? pull the trigger on the X2? pay 30$ more for the S2? something else entirely?

>> No.2510195

there was a pretty nice one a few months back called the lucky13, some pretty nice ball and socket joints on it.

>> No.2510212
File: 238 KB, 625x657, 1648879353361.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>print going fine 40 minutes in on my ender 3
>suddenly print gets loose from the bed and starts moving around, ruining the whole thing

>> No.2510219

is it a bad idea to buy a used printer off ebay?

>> No.2510243
File: 156 KB, 1078x1036, EZjK_U3WsAIvGD3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

hello anon, I too am dumb bitch

Check your Z end stop, adjust z offset. Babystep Z till shit works and throw that number in your slicer as your z offset. That helped my CR-10 v3.

Speaking of, the board in my OG CR-10 died from an unfortunate table break that lead to a fall. I wanna convert it to a new machine. Core xy? voron switchwire? fuckingmachine? idk but I wanna reuse the hardware. Suggestions anons? Already have a Recreator 3D.

They have "bundle deal" sales today, Monday may be more interesting.

CR-6 MAX with a CHT and a parts cooling fan upgrade. Some will say CR-10 or a bambu X1, and the CR-6 SE is stinky duu duu, but the MAX with some tweaks makes clean prints. Pricey & Creality but it aint bad, first FDM I recommend to people who wanna make cosplay helmets and armor.
Don't get an Anycubic Kobra Max, it's SHIT

Depends on make model and use. My first machine was a farm used OG Ender and its still running fine today after a wheel swap about 6 months ago.

How do you anons feel about Construct3D and their Construct 1 XL?
Might get one, idk yet.

>> No.2510258

its a bad idea if you want a working printer, good idea if you want parts, and are willing to accept a working printer 1/10 times

>> No.2510265

Got the original Aquila. It's decent value if you can get it cheap. I have upgraded the extruder, hotend fans and mainboard. If you want to use Klipper you will want to get an skr mini e3v3.

>> No.2510269

Phaetus dragonfly is awesome.

>> No.2510314

What's a good option for out of the box nylon and wood printing at $500? Crealty s1 pro has pretty mixed reviews. I could get an ender 3 and upgrade it but it's about the same as the s1p and then I have to muck with it on top

>> No.2510315

Maybe turn up the heat? If you don't have a glass bed as stock you might want to turn it up. Also an abrasive surface glass bed would be helpful

>> No.2510318
File: 87 KB, 726x976, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Any CADchads want to help me design this thing? It's a bathroom hanger. I want this to be a 3 pieces modular hanger, so that we can stack as many as we need by just printing additional bases and supports. It's mostly done, but I can't think of a good way to merge the bottom support to the top one. Ideally, it would be something that you could just attach together, and the weight would tighten it, and also somehow prevent the two supports from sliding to the sides and detaching (of course).

Also, I haven't yet printed the top support, but it should work. It keeps the base from falling off from the bottom by the widening at the bottom of the support and a slant which keeps the support from falling off by the sides. I did print an earlier version of this, and I can say the supports are strong enough to hold over 2 liters of shampoo plus whatever, but it was not modular and it finally broke when someone tried to clean it and it fell on the floor. So this is the time for an upgrade.

I can share the step file if anyone is interested in helping.

>> No.2510332

I would start by making the vertical parts not absolute stick tier, and your hook at the top has absolutely no structural integrity at all for a printed part.
Bigger radii on the parts where the bottom of the tray meet the fence portions.
Print it and you'll see what you did wrong and then figure out how to make it better next time

>> No.2510333

you are trying to reinvent the wheel with your design, way too complicated for a simple shower shelf
look up spray can holder on thingiverse
idk why the barrier is arching, you're increasing weight with that extra plastic

>> No.2510335

It works fine. And after six months, the hook was not the part that broke (it was at the bottom).

>idk why the barrier is arching
You mean the fillet on the inside of the wall? That was purely aesthetic. I will look the thing on the thingiverse though.

>> No.2510337

you're misusing the term fillet
pic related is fillet
the wall itself has arches, if you can't make it functional how can you consider aesthetic
you make me seethe anon, but its ok, this is for fun after all. Sorry to be so uptight, I'm getting old.
just focus on making a simple design that works
if a 4 year old cannot figure it out, reconsider the design.

>> No.2510339
File: 36 KB, 1024x768, Fillet.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>forgets picture
yeah here comes the mental decline, Christ

>> No.2510340

Sure, that's what I meant. I assumed you were referring to the one in the inside of the wall (which is exactly what I wrote when I referred to the fillet).
I made the wall with arches because I like arches, and also to lessen the distance of the overhang while keeping enough space underneath for a soap to fit through.

>> No.2510341

one more autistic piece of advice: where is your shelf going? think about the shower and how people maneuver in a tight space
a lot of showerhead caddies exist because people don't physically stand under the shower head
yours looks like it goes on a wall, denying space and creating an obstacle to bump in to
a lot of people put things on their shower window as well, or the shower walls will sometimes come with a recessed shelf

>> No.2510342
File: 236 KB, 804x658, anontakesashower.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Ah ok you know what the term means, you just can't read or understand basic english otherwise
>for a soap to fit through
>anons design is for pic related
alright Im out have fun, youtube a structures 1 course itll help you understand tension, compression, and shear

>> No.2510348
File: 136 KB, 1328x747, 20221126_132724.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Pic related. As I said, it works fine, and has worked fine for months. I'm just working on v2 now, because I want to upgrade it to a modular design. If you don't want to help, that's okay, you don't really need to.

I don't get why people get upset so easily.

>> No.2510351

because you ask for advice, get advice, then get defensive about it

>> No.2510354

I'm not defensive. You if have advice about the best way to fit the supports together (preferably in a way that doesn't cause them to stick out, but I'm not picky at this point), I'm happy to hear it. However, the only things I've heard so far is that I should watch structure-101 on youtube, about fillet nomenclature, and how I should change the hook on top, among some thinly-veiled insults. Did I forget anything? I'm still looking through the can holder on thingiverse btw.

>> No.2510358
File: 949 KB, 632x400, LVSoapDish.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Honest opinions of this Louis Vuitton soap dish holder? I'm more of an engineer than a designer but this might be a gift for my brother if it turns out nice

>> No.2510362

Two things come to mind:
Will it tumble?
Are you confident in printing those thin circular parts in the smaller petals without creating goop or blobs?

Other than that, just design aspects, maybe consider working the top edge a bit more?

>> No.2510366

>Will it tumble?
With that base, it 100% will.
Doesn't need to be huge, but the length is not there; this will be easy to rock, which can make it feel cheap.

This will also be disgusting in use, it doesn't drain water being flat on top, the LV will catch water and soap scum, what does run through the holes runs along the edge of the base, it's gonna be nasty.
Dish it and add a drainage channel from the center-most point to make this significantly better.

Neat design, someone's going to love it.

>> No.2510369

Thanks, I might just redesign most of it to deal with drainage.

>> No.2510372

You're off to a great start, won't take much.

>> No.2510373
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>> No.2510450

I was told that putting alcohol in an ultrasonic bath is a safety hazard, so I was wondering what people's cleaning process for resin printing. What I normally do is put the prints in a glass jar full of alcohol and then shake it up, then strain the print and put it in a bowl to run under the sink. This takes a lot of time though as I have to go from across my apartment to keep doing this. I have an ultrasonic bath from my job, can I just do the alcohol shake in the jar and then put it in to the bath? Or do the bath first then alcohol?

>> No.2510456
File: 3.56 MB, 3120x4160, IMG_20221126_201746_BURST1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Made a custom shifter for my winter beater

>> No.2510468

just use fucking glass or PEI or PEX or a magnetic bed, jackass, zero need for "tape"
It's the same as those people that smear glue on their print beds to improve adhesion instead of properly tuning the printer

>> No.2510486
File: 287 KB, 975x1219, 1669292344635755.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

G10 garolite

>> No.2510524

>I was told that putting alcohol in an ultrasonic bath is a safety hazard
Because alcohol is flammable, especially when heated and agitated. You can totally do it if you want through. But glass is transparent to ultrasound in water, so the cleaner will work if you just put the (closed) alcohol jar in the ultrasonic cleaner filled with water or whatever cleaning solution is normally there. An alternate is a magnetic lab stirrer, which would give you something functionally similar to the cleaning function of the Prusa CW1.

>> No.2510585
File: 2.48 MB, 991x1130, here we go.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

hey any idea what might be going wrong anons?
200 printing temp
60 bed temp
30 mm/s print speed
15 mm/s initial layer
transmission ratio is 106, I was told to put it up from the stock because the ender 3 v2 has an under-extrusion problem
been leveling this bed repeatedly for some time now
.4 mm brass nozzle, the only recent change has been changing the extruder to be all metal recently and installing a filament guide
trying to print a filament spool holder that isn't attached to the chassis
I dont mind printing slower/longer so long as the print is under 24 hrs and the quality is nice but I know this isnt a speed problem
also fuck this captcha holy shit

>> No.2510597
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>> No.2510629

Hey guys, new to 3d printing and looking to get a printer. I read the general and there are 4 listed for under $500. I was looking to spend about that much, so wondering which of these is the best? Thanks.

>> No.2510654


>> No.2510672

Buy a Prusa Mini unless you enjoy working on mechanical challenges, then just buy whatever chinkshit printer has the best modding community (it's the Ender 3 Pro).

>> No.2510682

>want to change my ender 3 extruder to an all-metal one
>take it apart
>gear is press-fitted onto the motor shaft and i can't take it off
oh good

>> No.2510700

many such cases

>> No.2510702

Sovol SV06 $229 right now early price
Be sure to do the can trick in this video

>> No.2510712

Can you tell me a bit more on the Prusa Mini? Looks interesting features wise but it’s out on like a gib arm

>> No.2510724

Intro model Prusa FDM printer. Compared to the Mk3, it's cheaper with a slightly smaller build volume. Less versatility with materials due to bowden rather than direct drive, but handles most non-flexibles. Not as robust for 24/7 print farm use but pretty good for out of the box hobby reliability. As with the Mk3, a big selling point is that it works out of the box with no fiddling or aftermarket parts needed to print well. It also has a big community of users for support and mods.
If you want to get to printing and don't mind the price, it's something to consider. If you want to tinker or are on a tighter budget, one of the cheaper options that do best with upgrades may be the way to go.

>> No.2510757

Solidworks or Inventor if I'm pirating? Already used Inventor before but I heard they're similar. Anything to watch out for, viruses a big issue? Don't say use Fusion360 or FreeCAD, I hate Autodesk and I'm too dumb for FreeCAD.

>> No.2510765

Good evening sirs, I'm trying to print and build the clock from this thingiverse build:

but I'm struggling to find where I can source things like the 1.5 - 3mm pins.
Any recommendations on where I can look for parts that can't be 3D printed?

>> No.2510777

It you're too poor to buy Solidworks or Inventor, then you're probably too dumb for those too.

>> No.2510779

Try searching for 1.5mm rod
All I can find is stainless though

>> No.2510781

Thank you so much.

>> No.2510791
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>> No.2510803

Tungsten Nozzles: worth it or overpriced nonsense? I'll be running some cf nylon soon.

>> No.2510810

>some cf nylon
Do you mean tungsten or tungsten carbide? Tungsten carbide is a lot harder and more wear resistant, and should actually last through multiple kilos of cf filament. Tungsten would have better heat transfer than hardened steel but probably a shorter life, which is already short enough with cf filament. Whether any of those is worth it depends on how much you ant to print. A cheapo brass nozzle would last for a single small print without issue.

>> No.2510812

I'm going for wear resistance so carbide is what I want, but the descriptions I've found of nozzles so far has been something of a crapshoot.

>> No.2510815

>so carbide is what I want
There are also ruby and diamond nozzles from various manufacturers. The principle of a very hard nozzle material works fine. Production quality would naturally depend on the manufacturer.

>> No.2510820

Bahahaha! The shitty little gear still got you!

>> No.2510823
File: 13 KB, 421x421, FiJ7lF_VQAABz9D.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>extruder clogs
>take apart the hotend
>the heat break is full of sticky grey stuff that doesn't want to come out

What is this?
I assume it's melted, polluted filament that's built up in there and not some adhesive for the bowden tube or something, right? Should I be worried about getting it all out to make sure my bowden tube seals the inside properly?

>> No.2510825

How does it feel to want?

>> No.2510841
File: 63 KB, 1023x682, 1668555503544586.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

i am now having the same problem that the raging anon earlier ITT was having trying to get the press-fit extruder gear off
pic related me after going insane trying to get it off

>> No.2510842

I got a Bozzle Nozzle which is currently the most badass nozzle on the market.

The price seems insane at $80, but consider the fact that it will never, ever wear out. The Bondtech CHTs at $20/each are disposable in comparison.

>> No.2510851

>be retard
>buy ender 3
>complain that the set screw extruder gear comes loose after a while
>chinks change the design to press fit gears

>be another retard
>buy latest E3
>complain that the extruder gear doesn't come off.

Comedy gold

>> No.2510859
File: 18 KB, 639x475, 1602290310348.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

i just got into 3d printing 2 weeks ago
how am i supposed to know all of this minutiae?

>> No.2510860

also it isn't the "latest" ender 3, its just the original

>> No.2510864
File: 847 KB, 640x360, lvsoapdish2.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Thanks for the advice, I tried to improve upon it. I think to make it less wobbly I'm going to try to print it with like 25 bottom layers. Not much I can do about the drainage in the LV without making it look weird

>> No.2510873

putting a fan on hot pei won't hurt it.
putting hot pei in a freezer won't hurt it.
you're going to be fine.

>> No.2510875

no clue what the other anons are on about, that's clearly a z-calibration (offset or bed level) issue
the nozzle should be ever so slightly further away from the bed

>> No.2510876

Part of the deal with getting a cheapo printer is having to deal with issues that arise from cost-saving measures. The specifics may vary, but they're usually there.

>> No.2510877

The anon above had said that "as long as it's borosilicate" such things would be OK. The implication being that non-borosilicate glass (which is much more vulnerable to heat shock) might be damaged by severe cooling measures. But yes, PEI on steel isn't bothered by heat or cold at all in that range.

>> No.2510880
File: 1.08 MB, 2514x797, IMG_20221127_124506.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

What demonic entity has possessed my Ender 3 v2 to cause this shitshow?
I've printed several things recently with zero issue.

>adaptive layers off
>layer height 0.2 mm
>combing and coasting on
>FW retraction (using cura extension to force G10/11 instead of extruder motions)
>z-hop 0.2 mm
>cubic subdivision infill
>50 mm/s speed

Especially the fuzz on the inner surface, why on earth is there any fuzz to begin with? The head doesn't travel outside the skin at all as you can see on the left image.

>> No.2510910

What filament brand/material are you using?

>> No.2510944


What do you mean?

"Ornament und Verbrechen" - A. Loos
"less is more" - L. Mies van der Rohe
"less is a bore" - R. Venturi

3D printers are clearly Venturi's followers.

>> No.2511001

Means he battered his lead screw with white lithium grease asif it was cake icing

>> No.2511003

I think I'm zeroing on the issue. Setting FW retraction Z-hop to 0 mm in the printer solved the fuzz issue 99%.

>> No.2511017
File: 828 KB, 438x1289, aquernit.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>switch from glass bed to textured pei bed
>1000% better
>no more need for hairspray
>print lots
>1% of the time a tiny bit doesn't stick to the bed when nozzle moves away
>go back to hairspray
>problems dissapear
At least I get the easy model-release
But I'm sorry Aqua Net
I'm sorry I ever considered leaving you

>> No.2511041

I went from pei back to hairspray on glass. Just works for me.

>> No.2511044

Rage Anon here. This is what worked for me in the end:


It may potentially damage the motor but the gear was so mangled by the time I found that video that it had to come off no matter what. I accepted that the more I fucked with it, the more likely I was going to have to buy a new motor entirely.

The gear puller is really the safest solution because it isolates the force gradient to the gear and the top of the motor shaft entirely. Any leverage, torque, force, etc, applied to the motor housing while also applying force to the gear itself creates the possibility that a force differences between the gear, the shaft, and the motor will develop. If those force differences are too great, damage could be done to the bearings or other parts inside the motor.

Dremeling the gear off is probably the second best solution presented here.

>> No.2511052

Jew Bread:

>> No.2511240

Bruh that's so cheap gimme some of that

>> No.2511268

are you a nigger?

>> No.2511272

z hop needs to be turned off for 3v2s

>> No.2511511

Could a kind anon tell me the resistance value for the second from the right resistor by the extruder driver, on an Ender 3 v4.2.2 Mainboard? (marked R19)

Need this info to troubleshoot, but it's impossible to find schematics online.

>> No.2511512

Why 3v2s specifically? I had never heard that before, is this common knowledge?

>> No.2511880

I have a 3v2, looking at random youtubers i was informed to turn z hopping off to get rid of nasty blobs that you see on prints and it worked. Could be for v2 style machines ? idk

>> No.2512237

I had the same thought

>> No.2512440

It's going to get gross and unwashable.

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