/emt/ Eternal Machinist Thread

[Anonymous No.2479557]

New thread, because the old one is completely dead.

Thread hymn.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=o5FPPoLqkCk

Last thread: Not sure honestly, it died a long time ago.

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists
>Edge precision
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-kgF0sJFno

[Anonymous No.2479559]

Button pusher here. I just crashed our shop's CNC lathe and permanently damaged the turret.
Am I fucked?

[Anonymous No.2479599]

Is holding a reamer in a set screw end mill holder as bad an idea as it feels? A lot of people in my shop grind a flat by hand and go with that rather than using a collet or drill chuck. Had a near disaster a few months ago when a reamer apparently wasn't adequately secured slipped up into the holder and welded itself to the retention knob.
>>2479559
As a button pusher? Unless you personally input an incorrect value for an offset or manually jogged into the part or whatever, you can't really assume the blame. Ultimately comes down to what management thinks, which can be fair, or completely off the mark.

[Anonymous No.2479634]

>>2479599
Yeah I should have added that it was due to me putting a wrong value from attempting to fix a part and running at more than 100% rapid.
:_:

[Anonymous No.2480237]

>>2479634
>>2479559
So why did you post the pic on /b/ and not here?

[Anonymous No.2480278]

>>2479559
It happens

[Anonymous No.2480373]

>>2480237
That wasn’t a pic of it if you read the opening post. Picrel was more severe, but I did permanently damage the turret and make sure some slots could never be used again.

Also because /b/ is a fast board

[Anonymous No.2480607]

>>2479557
So I bought one of these, was packed poorly, the corners were dinged.
One corner was thoroughly smashed, like .050"
Bitched to amazon and they refunded me half of the money.

There are no blemishes or dings to the work surfaces, I can easily dress out the corners (the one bad one may be a pain) but its a 5" long V block.

Is there any worry that the overall accuracy may have been negatively affected from the blows? Like in parts where it doesnt look damaged from shock or something?
Or can I just grind off the high spot dings and everything that looks fine will be fine?

I can still return it for a full refund if I so choose.
Just a hobbyist and it being cheap is enticing, but if it buckled or fucked something up, its not worth it.

Best way to check?

[Anonymous No.2480615]

>>2480607
Zoomed in picture makes it look worse than it is, but its still a good ding.

[Anonymous No.2480659]

>>2480607
For hobby work I'd figure that working down the surface with a flat stone until you can't feel the material displaced dragging would be fine. You could check the flatness in the normal way (level the part out at three points and sweep with DTI for deviation) but that would be a bit tricky with the shape and size. You could run an indicator on the flat topside surface to see if there's a significant movement, but that wouldn't really be checking the flatness of the surface you're concerned with. Using Prussian blue and a reference surface could identify high spots, though this wouldn't give a dimension.
If you end up grinding one surface fresh, you should verify that the other working surface are still what they should be (parallel, square, whatever the angle of the V is), but it depends on what you actually need from it.

[Anonymous No.2480669]

>>2480607
>Is there any worry that the overall accuracy may have been negatively affected from the blows?
Use a guage to check it - even as a hobbyist, you should have basic tools to check for level/accuracy.

[Anonymous No.2480672]

>>2480607
I'd run it past a dial indicator and you'll find any issues instantly. Stoning off dings is normal machinist work and it's useful to accumulate a variety.

[Anonymous No.2481064]

how much will a 2x2 inch piece of steel cost to be milled at a shop

[Anonymous No.2481069]

>>2481064
$10.00 or $10,000, maybe a little more information

[Anonymous No.2481110]

>>2481069
i need a 2x2" block of steel, any height, no features. but i need it to a tolerance of 0.000005" in both dimensions

[Anonymous No.2481168]

>>2481110
Why the fuck do you need to hold 5 millionths in two dimensions, but don't care how long the part is? Also, it will probably cost you thousands, because it isn't just a matter of milling a block at that point. You're looking at milling, then grinding, then buffing, all at controlled temperatures to get tolerances like that, assuming that you can find a job shop that even has the ability to measure the part to that degree of accuracy.

[Anonymous No.2481201]

>>2480615
hard to tell it looks almost like it was a bad spot in the material and not a bump so maybe not critical. When steel is banged up it raises the regions around it so probably at least 1/4" around it is fucked and you would need to grind it down some how. Small dings are easy to fix with a flat stone but big ones are annoying because you can't get the stone to cut unless you try so hard you can't feel anymore when the region is flat again.

If it's just ripped out material i would keep it. If it was bumped that hard probably not unless it's cheaper than used.

[Anonymous No.2481361]

>>2481110
You're into optical territory with those dimensions, it's going to cost you a lot of money, I've got a feeling you don't know what the dimensions you stated mean.

[Anonymous No.2481386]

>>2481110
>0.000005"

[Anonymous No.2481403]

>>2481110
ambient temps swings and heat from your fingertips will throw that sort of accuracy off anon.

[Anonymous No.2481408]

>>2481110
found the engineering department

[Anonymous No.2481568]

Any advice on using glue for workholding? I'm specifically thinking about gluing bits of aluminum to vise bed and milling them flat to use as parallels. Is regular cyanoacrylate good enough? I have access to acetone and isopropyl, and could probably get some heavier duty solvents if need be for clean up.
Had a job last week that called for holding an almost 60" long piece in six vises. Simply had to mill it to the specced thickness without any concern for straightness, flatness, or parallelism, so it wasn't much trouble. I could just hammer the part down and cut. Ended up with a big warp, but it had no bearing on functionality. Running my indicator across the parallels I scrounged up gave me at least .010" TIR though, so if I needed to hold tighter tolerances I'd be in trouble.

[Anonymous No.2481721]

>>2479599
>>2480237
>>2480278
2nd and 3rd shift managers were pretty cool about it. 1st shift, the main shift, on the other hand was furious and lectured me over and over about not changing settings and all of that despite the fact that I didn't change any settings.

Let's just say, I don't work there anymore.

[Anonymous No.2481734]

>>2481721
Kek. What value did you change? Something in the program, a length offset, what? At the risk of giving you another lecture, there's a reason you turn the rapids down instead of up when you run a program for the first time after changing shit.

[Anonymous No.2481759]

>>2481734
G54 on Z by -4. instead of -.4
Was finishing fixing a bar end.
At 100% rapid.

[Anonymous No.2481762]

>>2481759
The old decimal point done got ya. RIP spindle.

[Anonymous No.2481792]

>>2481168
>>2481361
it's for a 2" trailer hitch
commercial one rattles around too much so i deaigned a new one and we're going to sell it. i guess ill have to charge a premium to afford the finishing to get it there, dont think our shop has grinders but we have buffing wheels. can i have operators go straight from milling to buffing on the grinder?

[Anonymous No.2481834]

>>2481792
quit baiting

[Anonymous No.2481965]

is it possible to run a machine shop entirely off grid? with solar power and wind I mean

[Anonymous No.2481978]

>>2481965
Sure, a Unimat machine shop

[Anonymous No.2481990]

>>2481792
you're probably baiting but I really don't think you understand what you're asking for, and I have baby's first level of machining knowledge being a welding cro magnon

[Anonymous No.2482023]

>>2481792
>>2481110
Stop this nonsense
The thermal expansion of regular steel is .0000063 per inch per deg F.
So lets pretend god himself made you a block of steel that is perfectly 2"x2" down to the atoms and you stick it on your truck at 5am when its 40f outside.

By the time you get home from work, the temperature has raised to 100F outside and its normalized to ambient temps (could be even higher if it was in the sun)

Your 2" block has now expanded to 2.000756"
A typical midwest summer swing has taken you .000751 out of your "tolerance"

Thats the reason 99% of people dont mess with these sorts of tolerances.
You move something from an un-airconditioned shop into the air conditioned quality control room, its going to by shifting a lot down in the millionths.

This is all a moot point anyways, manufacturers make their hitches loose fit, in conjunction with their receivers being loose fit.
Your high tolerance hitch will still rattle, unless you plan on making the receiver too.

[Anonymous No.2482034]

>stop browsing 4chan for a few months
>sit down to shit
>”hmmm let’s see what /diy/ is up to”
>read this retards post >>2481792
>decide to quit 4chan for a few more months

[Anonymous No.2482052]

>>2482034
and nothing of value was lost

[Anonymous No.2482100]

So how many flutes do you guys think are too many flutes, like just a ridiculous superfluous amount?

Typically I like to order 5 for aluminum and 6 or 8 for anything from 1018 to inconel

[Anonymous No.2482207]

>>2482100
i use made-to-order 16 flute 1" endmills for stainless. leaves a mirror finnish
they're basically like those carbide burr bits you see for dremels

[Anonymous No.2482332]

>get an order of 16 stainless steel pieces with all holes and cuts at 0.01 mm tolerances
>use the new endmills and reamers
>grind it to a perfection
>use spark erosion for edges
>bill the request a hefty price
>deliver the pieces
>moron takes one, tries to fit it in his contraption
>Oh shit i drew the wrong length
>nvmind ill manage
>takes an angle grinder and wrecks the piece where its sticking out
>still pays the asked price

[Anonymous No.2482333]

>>2482100
I like 4 flutes
I feel safe and at home with them no matter what is being cut

[Anonymous No.2482351]

>>2482333

It's ok anon

I felt like I was a babby machinist until just a few months ago when I finslly embraced HSM at 100% of whatever fswizard spat out and stopped being afraid I was going to fuck up expensive cutters (it's the company's money anyway)

Maybe one day I'll graduate from running at fswizard speeds to HSMadvisor speeds, HSMadvisor seems pretty aggressive

[Anonymous No.2482362]

>>2482100
4-6 for hogging stuff out. 8-12 flute for finishing. I can't justify nearly double the price going from a 12 flute to a 16 flute

[Anonymous No.2482385]

I will never understand true position modifiers. Please do not try and explain them to me, others have tried and failed before you. When I see true position, I just make the part as close to nominal as possible and cross my fingers. It doesn't matter in my case as I work in a complete shithole making parts that could probably be cast or 3d printed. It's not aerospace. I don't understand how making me do algebra to get to +-.004 is better than just writing +-.004 on the drawing. I guess my question is just why

[Anonymous No.2482386]

>almost said "I'd rather get raped at gunpoint than make those out of stainless" to a coworker
This site, /tv/ especially, has ruined my brain

[Anonymous No.2482923]

I made this repair. I was originally planning on using a plug threaded on both ends, but whatever this handle is made out of was so hard my tap couldn't even start in it so I just made one end a press fit. it was only .001 interference and tapped in easy with my little hammer, but it's stuck good so whatever I guess.

I also got the closest I've ever been to just walking out of the job people have been telling me to quit for 3 years now. boss literally slapped the mouse out of my hand after asking me to bring up some parameter. then tells me I'm taken off the current project but by 5:30 I'm trying to get it done anyway because the customer is coming to pick it up by 6:00 and no one else knows how to use the fucking machine.

>>2479599
>a set screw end mill holder
you mean like a weldon shank? I use reamers in floating holders that use a set screw and it works fine.

[Anonymous No.2482935]

>surprise meeting in an hour
>they won't say what it's about
>company president is here
It's been fun posting with you all

[Anonymous No.2482943]

>>2482935
Congrats on your raise and your performance bonuses!

[Anonymous No.2483049]

>>2482923

Not sure if you're a pussy or if I have anger issues but holy shit if my boss ever laid a hand on me in anger even if just an effete slap of the mouse I'd be getting booked on assault charges an hour later

[Anonymous No.2483112]

>>2482935
hello machine operator! you missed the meeting but it is okay. we were just talking about launching the new product and what will be expected of employees.

we are making 2x2" rectangles (of any length), to within 5 millionths. i have provided a cushioned seat at the buffing station

[Anonymous No.2483168]

>>2482351
i too tried the wizard thing
but until the boss gets us new more modern machines, im stuck with defected ones that either break shit or make shit depending if i hit the note right
i fucked the spindle bearings up once, had a huge face mill ready to fuck some stainless steel surface up, followed the teachings of fswizard
I dont know who fucked what up, but the machine couldnt cope with it.
It stopped only when the top screw fell out and face mill got stuck sideways burning red hot with teeth sunken into the block
i will never forget the smell...

If i had a new good and tight machine, id go 100% on everything (also read the parameters written on mills themselves).
It might sound weird, but running everything at 100% saves machines and prolongs their life.

[Anonymous No.2483169]

How do you decide how tight you want to grip a piece in a vice?

[Anonymous No.2483215]

>>2483168

Buddy I have a kitamura mycenter 2 that was built in 2000 and a milltronics TT24 from 2003

It'll be fine unless it's not

[Anonymous No.2483348]

>>2483112
underrated post

[Anonymous No.2483355]

I have to do a finishing cut on a 10.25"x2yd roll of stainless tomorrow. I have been trying to get a good set up to finish it as I have 10 more to do. So far the finish looks quite good using a 431 insert feeding at .006 ipr and 128 rpm.
I'm trying to rap my head around step over on a lathe so I know what exactly to do to further improve the finish. Can anyone give me qrd or resource specifically for single point cutting and stepover? Any other advice is welcome as well.

[Anonymous No.2483357]

>>2483355
I think feed was actually .0081, I can't remember exactly.

[Anonymous No.2483365]

>>2482386
stainless fucking sucks. the first thing i ever had to do at a job shop was drill #10 holes and thread them, in 304 stainless. they took me off that job after the third hole.

now i work in a shop that does almost everything in C12L14 and other really basic shit. life is good

[Anonymous No.2483366]

>>2482385
because for some shit it's required

[Anonymous No.2483367]

can anyone tell me a little bit about reducing runout on a lathe? i know its a basic thing, but i don't think my current strategy of "beat it with a brass hammer until it's ok" is going to work for anything pickier than a couple thousandths.

more specifically, concentricity. i had a fucking hell of a time with a couple parts these past two days, because they had to be drilled then bored to +/-.0005" diameter with concentricity of .001" to each other. it sucked and i junked 2 parts because the concentricity was fucked.

[Anonymous No.2483370]

>>2479557
Hey guys. Any fellow 2161s here? Just picked up class a few days ago. Finished my first little prac ap on the lathe. Feels good man.

[Anonymous No.2483371]

>>2483370
is that a military thing?

[Anonymous No.2483441]

>>2483367
do you mean concentricity during setup or after you start making features? anything you cut after you start should be concentric with the spindle axis unless your machine is fucked.

[Anonymous No.2483461]

>>2483371
Yea I'm training to be a machinist in the Marine Corps

[Anonymous No.2483465]

>>2483461
what kind of machines do they have? are you going to be on a floating machine shop?

[Anonymous No.2483469]

>>2483461
Smart choice. Do Marine machinists get to learn welding etc too? Weld training is Very Nice however you obtain it and complements machining.

The military is a nice place to be at the beginning of a recession because and that magnificent vested retirement means you won't feel future recessions if you hang. A thorough knowledge of the shitload of benefits (many G.I.s are too silly to use them and as a supervisor it was hard to motivate students though I'd work with them on their job schedules) pays off. You earned 'em by relieving civvys of having to serve so get every dime out of Uncle because Uncle gets so much out of you.

Visit the Practical Machinist forums which are geared to professionals and ask career advice because that crew is fucking sharp.

[Anonymous No.2483577]

Why do none of you fucks know what STI threads are? I swear to God, every single piece I've gotten from an out of house machine shop is fucked on threaded inserts. Either you have the same tap from 3 decades ago that your brother-father left you and I end up having to chase the threads with a new tap, or you just fucking drill and tap for an NC thread and say yolo. Go fuck yourselves. All professional machinists are worthless.

[Anonymous No.2483638]

>>2483577

Sounds like tool room fuckery to me

There's a reason why the "tool and die" "" "machinists" "" make 23 dollars an hour while I make 30 dollars an hour where I work now

Because they are fucking hacks

[Anonymous No.2483649]

>>2483355
What alloy specifically and what insert geometry? 431 just indicates the size and nose radius.
See if you can find recommended parameters from the tool manufacturer; they should be given somewhere if you aren't dealing with no-name brands. Can be kind of tricky to actually find the values for some makers.
My turning experience is quite limited, but what I was taught for depth of cut, for roughing at least, was basically "as deep as the spindle can manage without bogging down" I figure the inherent instability of longer parts should also be accounted for though. For finish cuts, start a little bit deeper than your nose radius, so something like .040" in terms of diameter. Make a few test cuts with different parameters if you have the time. .006 IPR is a pretty good starting point for feed. Depending on your insert you might be able to bump up the SFM a bit, which can help prevent smearing and chip welding.

I almost exclusively work with fairly tough, gummy materials like Monel 400 and K-500, various stainless grades, Inconel 600/625, Ti. The insert tooling we have works well, except with these high strength, low carbon, low alloy steel grades which happen to make up most of our volume. Run it too slow and get edge build up, go a bit faster and get rapid flank wear.
>>2483367
Fresh soft jaws might be worth a shot.

[Anonymous No.2483660]

>>2483649
400 series stainless, unknown to me beyond that; TNMG 431 cutter. DOC is 29.5.

[Anonymous No.2483669]

>>2483441
i'm using a mitsubishi lathe that'sbeen rebuilt multiple times. the jaws usually look ok, and when i use ground and polished material it's usually indicating at about .001". the problem is when it doesn't: sometimes i'll get a chunk of shit in there and it indicates .003 out. it's fucking maddening, and takes forever to work around.

so yeah, it's probably a mix of operator inexperience and a fucked machine. i don't want to spend time and money making new soft jaws when i've been working at the shop for a sum total of 2 months, and most of the time we use collets anyway.

[Anonymous No.2483904]

>>2483465
Depends where you're at but at Ft Lee (an army base in Virginia where we do our training) we've got manual and CNC mills and lathes, water jet and a couple 5 axis machines. For the most part we're in a maintenance battalion on land but I'm a reservist so I'll just be going to my duty station once a month while I go to college.

[Anonymous No.2483907]

>>2483469
They are actually creating the Fabricator MOS right now and they're gonna eliminate standalone welders and machinists in the next couple of years. Unfortunately (or fortunately because of how rushed they are) I didn't pick up with the Fabricator Class and I'm a standalone machinist.

I'm actually a reservist and I'll be looking for a job as a Machinist while I wait to start college in the fall. Any recommendations on how or where to start? I live in Houston if that matters.

[Anonymous No.2483915]

>>2482923
Why the fuck are you working there? Wuit for fucks sake. Steal as much as you can from the shop, then stop showing up

[Anonymous No.2483917]

>>2483904
Based way to get bennies and training.

[Anonymous No.2483918]

>>2483907
I'm not near Houston but a good way to find who might be hiring is drop by in person (telcon just annoys busy people) at various shops and ask how you might fit in.

Repair machining is huge so ability to run manual and CNC, and especially be competent at CAD are valued skills.

[Anonymous No.2483920]

>>2483638
Isn't the title "tool and die maker" incredibly difficult to get? As far as I know, tool makers and maintenance machinist posses skills that your run of the mill 3 axis CNC setup guy do not have.

[Anonymous No.2484044]

>>2483915
first I didn't feel like I had enough experience to find another job and then a family member was having health problems so I told myself I would wait until it got better. I think I am mainly just afraid of changing things. I've had enough for real this time though so I will be looking for a job as soon as things are back to normal.

[Anonymous No.2484054]

>>2483577
>every single piece I've gotten from an out of house machine shop is fucked on threaded inserts.

Don't accept defective work. Find a better shop and show them what you need done in person. Where do you live? Many good shops take work from states away and get the business because they work to spec.

[Anonymous No.2484058]

the current state of my works mill
we don't have a dedicated machinist so the mill and lathes just get used by whoever has enough brain cells to rub together to operate it.

[Anonymous No.2484074]

>>2483577
send the parts back, and/or explicitly put the threading tolerances on your print. when i see a tapped hole, i just drill and tap, simple as. because in reality, that's all it should need. also stop fucking whining about chasing some holes, it's not that much of a pain. it's common courtesy to chase the threads anyway, but a lot of machinists don't follow common courtesy.

[Anonymous No.2484075]

>>2484058
for the love of god blow it down. then lube the table screws

[Anonymous No.2484218]

>>2484054
>>2484074
Working in Aerospace R&D. My program schedules are usually so tight, we can't send the work back to have it reworked, and I end up fixing it myself on our mills.
Second, this was a $250k piece of wire EDM processed aluminum. The shop closed up shop after delivery. I've also had a similarly priced piece of Ti6-4 come through that the machine shop took an angle grinder to the piece. When we asked why, they said they don't know what tolerances are.
Seriously, if you are a decent machinist with morals/ethics, please get into aerospace. This shit is why we can't go to the moon again.

[Anonymous No.2484222]

>>2484218
Forgot to say, I shouldn't have to rework a $250,000.00 USD part.

[Anonymous No.2484273]

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but:

the bottom edge of a cooking pan/skillet I bought has a rough burr on it that scratched my glass stovetop. It's basically invisible to the naked eye, but you can feel it with your finger and you can catch it in photos, see pic

I figure I can abrase it away with steel whool, but I'm scratching the pan edge by doing so, and I don't want to leave more rough edges that can cause further scratches.

What can I do to smooth out the places I sand/steel whool down? I don't do any sort of mechanical or engineering or automotive shit so I don't have tools beyond normal household shit, so it needs to be something i'd already have or can buy on amazon cheaply (like, less then what a pan would be,, or would be returnable if it's more then that).

[Anonymous No.2484727]

>>2484273
stone the bottom until the burr is gone and then polish it with sandpaper to get the scratch marks out

[Anonymous No.2484782]

>>2484727
not sure what "stone" means in this context? If you mean like a whetstone, I don't own one. I guess I could buy one if there are cheap ones?

Could I not use sandpaper from the start? Will the sandpaper not leave microscopic edges that will cause scratches themelves?

[Anonymous No.2484796]

Amateur here, doing a lot of woodworking lately and I want a small wood router machine to make small standardized parts like corner pieces and signs. Do any of you know any -any- ones under $200? Doesn't need to be a big surface area ( I really only need 2x2x1/8) and I don't mind building it myself. I just needs to be programmable.

[Anonymous No.2484814]

>>2484782
a stone like you would sharpen a knife with. if you don't have one you should get one anyway so you can stop cooking with dull knives. for this you want to use a coarse one though not one of those 6000 grit japanese ones. you can start with sandpaper if you want. wrap it around something flat like a wood block. start with 320 grit and go up until the look doesn't bother you. everything has scratches, the difference is how big they are.

[Anonymous No.2485202]

Anyone know the best place to get arkansas sharpening stones? Gunna try and rope my boss into buying some but he always takes saturdays off so the better the price, the higher the likelihood is of him buying them.

[Anonymous No.2485204]

>>2484273

I agree with the sharpening stone, kinda curious what kind/brand the pan is though.

[Anonymous No.2485217]

>>2484796
They dont exist. The gantry on a 2'x2' requires a lot more stiffness and rigidity than you would think.
You would have to build it from scratch, and with the price of raw materials going way up, I still dont know if your budget is higher enough.

Regardless look at something like the LowRider cnc

[Anonymous No.2485331]

>>2484814
No, I don't have one. I have a pull through knife sharpner, which works fine enough.

>start with 320 grit and go up until the look doesn't bother you.

I don't exactly have a huge variety of grits of sandpaper. I have steel wool, random sandpaper I have laying around the garage I don\t know the specifics of, and 220 grit sandpaper foam block things a friend happened to order a few days ago too.

>>2485204
Misen, they were having a half off sale so I bought two stainless steel pans and a nonstick one, the burr is on the nonstick.

[Anonymous No.2485342]

>>2485331
220 will get is smooth enough to not scratch your stove but will leave it looking scuffed. also glass stoves are shit just throw it out and get a better one.

[Anonymous No.2485389]

>>2485342
I mean I don't mind how it looks if I can push it around on the stovetop without causing issues.

I do wanna be clear here though that I WOULD be pushing it around on the glasstop: I'm short as fuck and have weak arms so to flip stuff in the pan I push and pull it while on the stove vs lifting the stove and manipulating the pan while elevated.

Is 220 gonna be enough to have it not be an issue in that use case?

>also glass stoves are shit just throw it out and get a better one.

If I had 2000$ to get a new stove I wouldn't be asking /diy/ on how to salvage a 40$ pan

[Anonymous No.2485409]

>>2484273
>>2485389
Yeah, that would be going back to the store in a heartbeat
Return the fuck out of it.

[Anonymous No.2485473]

>>2485409
I'm gonna email them, but I'm asking about fixing it myself too in case they just decide to send me a new one rather then requiring I exchange it, that way i'd have two usable pans.

[Anonymous No.2485502]

>>2485217

By "2x2x1/8" I mean 2 inches by 2 inches by 1/8th inch. Not a lot, but enough to make small spacers and fittings used for auto trim pieces and cabinetry. I'd prefer a 4x4x4 cube though.

[Anonymous No.2485512]

>>2485502
I have no experience with these small cheap machines, I have a much large CNC router.
But I do know the 3018 size (pic you posted) is pretty popular and seems to at least work OK.
They all come out of the same factory, paying more for upgrades out of the box can useful as there are compromises everywhere. Name Brand doesnt mean much on chink shit like this.

I took a 20 second look through amazon, and personally if I wanted a 3018 size CNC router in the $200 range, this is the one id probably buy.
Its currently $240 with a $30 coupon making it $210.

https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Control-Engraving-300x180x45mm-ENGRAVER/dp/B09B6PVX6M/?th=1

The Gantry moves along the Y while the cutting bed is stationary, this is how all the bigger higher end models do it. Its stiffer and easier to mod into a better machine.

The vast majority of the other generic 3018s, the gantry is stationary while your Y is actually your bed moving back and forth. Far more problematic and a much worse design.

[Anonymous No.2485513]

>>2485512
>>2485502
Also no matter what router you buy, for gods sake, pirate Vectric Aspire (the highest end Vcarve software)
Its basic, intuitive, and well puttogether software that genuinely makes CNC routing easy.

[Anonymous No.2485654]

>>2485502
This video will help you to understand the difficulties with these machines. Also which model to choose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0PXTLIW-5c

[Anonymous No.2485752]

>>2484218
this wouldn't happen if western machining didn't all get sold out to china, blame the owner class

[Anonymous No.2485775]

>>2485654
This video doesnt tell you what model to choose, or how to fix them.
Its some ESL text to speech garbage

[Anonymous No.2485865]

Speaking of CNC routers, ive wanted to design and build a small but actually stout machine for cheap to do small aluminum and steel projects.

Pic related are only $100 on ebay, the picture is deceiving as they weigh 66 lbs. In video they look a lot more impressive, exponentially heavier and more stout with dovetails than any CNC router on amazon.
https://youtu.be/mW7bM9lzM_8?t=2575

Clean up, maybe even hand scrape the dovetails.
Ballscrew conversion, slap steppers on it. Easy, you have your X and Y

Weld steel walled square tubing to build a base with a fixed gantry, you mount the milling table to.

The hardest part would be building the Z spindle holder.
But I already have a compound slide I took off a lathe which I could just add a ballscrew to and mount to the gantry. It would have cast iron dovetails in every axis.

What am I overlooking?
Why havent people just done this instead of spending over $100 just to buy linear bearings and rails to mount a crappy extruded table to?

[Anonymous No.2486125]

how do I know if my inserts are wearing out quickly because my sneeds are wrong or because they're cheap chinese ones I bought off amazon? are blue chips bad if my surface finish is good?

[Anonymous No.2486129]

>>2486125
What are the shape of your chips?
Thin razorwire rats nest?
Very long curled chips?
Both arent good and means you need to change something.

If you have <1" chips that break off and are curled up nicely, blue is great
It means you are running the carbide hard and the chips are soaking the heat like they are supposed to.

If you are making good chips and they are blue, the inserts are just shitty.

[Anonymous No.2486169]

>>2485865
>Clean up, maybe even hand scrape the dovetails.
>Ballscrew conversion, slap steppers on it.

It's definitely a path you can take but you will have to scrape it (or at least mill/grind it) and make your own bearing blocks for ballscrews. Nothing will be square to mount anything to and nothing will be straight so you won't be able to set the gibs right unless you are very very lucky and get a decent one.

>Weld steel walled square tubing to build a base with a fixed gantry, you mount the milling table to.

Or go directly to epoxy granite. Steel tubes have to be filled anyway or they'll ring like a bell.

>Why havent people just done this instead of spending over $100 just to buy linear bearings and rails to mount a crappy extruded table to?

Cast iron table >>> crappy extruded table BUT linear rails will be thousands of times stiffer than a crappy dovetail, even the worst ones. Plain ways only work well if they are somewhat decent or the parts are very heavy. Chinese ways often have three point contact and spring in the 0.Xmm range under load.

The advantage is, you can't even buy cast iron raw material in the west for the price of the table. If you have the means to rework it it's not the worst idea.

I would probably cut off the dovetails, mount the table on linear rails and use the saddle for a z axis linear rail sled/spindle mount. And combine that with an epoxy granite base.

Look at this thread to see what you're in for:
https://forum.zerspanungsbude net/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=62448

Basically you have to treat it as a (bad quality) casting kit. Most people wont have the means nor want to put in so much work. Mounting rails to ground plates is quicker and easier.

[Anonymous No.2486244]

>>2485865
Speed. You want to go fast for hours on wood and aluminum especially with high RPM spindle.
>>2486169
I don't know why your link doesn't work for me but here is mine.
https://forum.zerspanungsbude.net/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=62448

[Anonymous No.2486270]

if i have a program for a chamfer tool (45 or 90 however you name it) whos radius is 8mm that doesnt change depth and chamfers 4 edges, can i use a chamfer tool with a bigger radius and still get the same result?
I am convinced i can, the access cutting surface of the chamfer doesnt hit into anything.
The programmer that i work for says that i cant, it will leave a deeper cut (it never did).
If it was the other way around, putting a smaller one instead of the programmed or when it does anything besides simple edge chamfering, i understand, i realize, but not in simple edge chamfering cases.
Who is smoking pcp? Me or him? I know my head is clear

[Anonymous No.2486271]

>>2483169
As hard as you can. Make sure the loose jaw rises up a little.
It may tilt your piece, but just hit it with a hammer until it dials into place.
You have to loosen up the moving jaw of the vice, it has to climb a little when tightening a piece.
Doesnt matter what metal it is.
Except for maybe soft metals, but you learn that as you go.

[Anonymous No.2486388]

>>2486270
It depends on how the tool path is programmed? Both need to have the same diameter at the point you touch off (probably the tip or where the tip would be if ground to a point). And yes, of course you have to check if a larger one might hit features or a smaller one might not cut the full chamfer.

>>2486271
kek'd

[Anonymous No.2486561]

>>2480237
Holy shit dude, haha you might get blacklisted from working any machineshop ever again.

[Anonymous No.2486565]

I got a .svg from a customer and I'm trying to make toolpaths with it but it was drawn with photoshop or something because every line is some weird spline and none of the intersections are actually connected so everything is a broken chain. is there any easy way to fix this besides going in and manually adding like 200 constraints?

[Anonymous No.2486566]

>>2486271
This. Also, make sure you dont grip more than 2 mm in depth.
Less you grip, the harder you grip, makes for a safely gripped piece that isnt going anywheeee

[Anonymous No.2486662]

>>2486565
Might be worth exporting the image as a bitmap and then tracing it (automatic function in Inkscape) to get a solid path. If your CAM software can use a bitmap you can skip the tracing. I used to mess around with Inkscape and even tried an extension to generate code, but don't remember much anymore.

[Anonymous No.2486755]

>>2486565
Merge all the paths with Union in inkscape? I would try to open it with different software or convert it to different formats until you find one where it works out of the box.

>>2486662
>Might be worth exporting the image as a bitmap and then tracing it (automatic function in Inkscape) to get a solid path.
I wouldn't trust that workaround to give the exact same dimensions though. Might be irrelevant for the application.

[Anonymous No.2487138]

damn I was going to try to use fusion 360 on my computer at home but it doesn't run on wangblows 7

[Anonymous No.2487146]

>>2487138
Sure it does, look it up on duckduckgo

[Anonymous No.2487223]

>>2487146
the installer wouldn't even start downloading. do I need to get it a different way?

[Anonymous No.2487589]

Where is the money in this trade? Thinking of pursuing and reading around its government stuff CNC programming.

[Anonymous No.2487669]

>>2487589
>Where is the money in this trade?
Medical and aerospace
You have to get certified which is expensive and hard, but youll be a made man

[Anonymous No.2487691]

I done it

[Anonymous No.2487696]

Learning CAD rn, if i get good i want to learn CNC machines and working with metal in general. The end goal being an apprenticeship with a high end gunsmith.
What sort of metal working classes and courses would ya'll recommend?

[Anonymous No.2487727]

>>2487696
I am a low end gunsmith. I don't know how high end ones even hire apprentices. do you mean like holland&holland? learn how to use a lathe. learn how to use a file. not metal working but learn how to use a chisel and glue wood together. do grip exercises so you can compress springs with one hand.

[Anonymous No.2487771]

>>2487589
Aeronautics, space, goverment/military. All very competitive to get in and if you don't have the skills you won't last long there. Easier to get into small smaller scope manufacturing. I started in manufacturing of earth moving machinery.

[Anonymous No.2487776]

>>2487771
>mfw oil refinery accessories

[Anonymous No.2487808]

I never took algebra, and I barely passed remedial math in school.
What kind of math should I go back and learn to be a proficient machinist and fabricator?

I was a shitty student who didnt even try.

[Anonymous No.2487811]

>>2487808
trig

[Anonymous No.2487812]

>>2487727
Gun smiths are few here so from what I've heard they end up being for the hunters with lots of money.
Think they're individual smiths instead of for companies.
There's no clear school path for it but they recommend 3-5 different corses to take before searching for a gun smith, the apprenticeship is supposed to take 6 years or so.

[Anonymous No.2487855]

>>2487812
>are few here
In the low hundreds iirc, maybe 300 but it has been a while since i read it so might be talking out my ass, meanwhile we have 300k or so hunters and then a number of sport shooters and collectors as well.
Engraving is supposed to be a fair bit of it from what some say.

[Anonymous No.2488176]

>>2487808
>>2487808
>I was a shitty student who didnt even try.
why do you think we are here?

you dont rwally need any because cellphones
but basically adding/subtraction and trig

[Anonymous No.2488196]

>>2487812
>but they recommend 3-5 different corses to take
Is one of those corses an English class?

[Anonymous No.2488264]

why does fusion 360 randomly open the wrong windows when I want to do something? like if I select some entities and hit M sometimes it gives me the full window with options to type in the translate values I want and check create copy, but other times it just gives me the little window with no options.

[Anonymous No.2488289]

>>2487808
You will need some advanced math knowledge but you can learn as you go. I recommend this book as it teaches you all the mathematical formulae you'll need on the job. Its a little bit expensive but its worth the price.

1/2

[Anonymous No.2488290]

>>2487808
2/2

Also would recommend this too.

[Anonymous No.2488302]

>>2487808
This is a book made for literal retards starting all the way at the beginning teaching numbers place and how to do long addition and subtraction.
Works its way all the way up through Trig and is a good, pointed book teaching you from scratch all the basics you need. No need to hunt for specific Trig or Algebra books and wonder whats relevant or not, it prepares you front to back learning whats important.

There are newer editions, but they cost like a LOT more. This edition one you can get used for $6 shipped, just click on the used button and pick one of the 40 sellers with one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0136097081/

[Anonymous No.2488304]

>>2488289
This book is god tier.
Yes the Machinerys Handbook is the king, but I pick this up way more often.
I have the Fastener black book which is pretty interesting too.

[Anonymous No.2488321]

>>2487808
i recommend this to brush up on the algebra you should have learned in high school. hungerford goes slow and easy

[Anonymous No.2488335]

>>2488196
That depends, are you a gun whisperer?

[Anonymous No.2488648]

>>2487589
>>2487669
>medical and aero
This but also high end tool and die/mold work can pay really well. Specialized toolroom work can also end up being pretty good too. That's the case in my area at least. $50-60/hr isn't unheard of, though obviously it's pretty far from the median and takes years of experience.
>>2487808
I can get by with my $10 scientific calculator doing all the real work. I had a pretty good grasp on geometry and basic algebra for a while, but it got rusty for lack of use before starting in the trade. With a decent full featured calculator (I would suggest Casio models; they are a bit more natural, IMO, compared to TI offerings. I like the fx-115es plus) and a cheat sheet for its functions and the formulae you might need you'll be alright. Still need to have some understanding of principles at work though.

[Anonymous No.2488868]

do you really need to know math when you can just draw your thing in solidworks and it will do all the calculations for you?

[Anonymous No.2488870]

>>2488868
>Hey boss can I barge into the office and kick the designer off his computer so I can figure some basic trigonometry?

[Anonymous No.2488892]

>>2488870
If I'm not doing the design myself, why would I be doing math?

[Anonymous No.2488933]

>>2488892
Obvious example would be a bolt circle or other features described with polar rather than linear coordinates. I occasionally have to do repairs or rework on large, irregular parts and it ends up being easier to determine the angle between two existing holes and using that angle to plot the locations of whatever features need to be modified or added. Aligning the centers of two holes with an indicator and hammer on a 200lb part is more time consuming and aggravating.

[Anonymous No.2488939]

>>2488892
Because sometimes draftsmen and engineers are bad at their jobs and make mistakes and leave out important i formation. If you have enough data you can use math the figure out the rest.

[Anonymous No.2488955]

>>2488939
That's not to mention that good draftsmen don't want to completely clutter a drawing with reference dimensions everywhere.

[Anonymous No.2489067]

>>2488868
>do you really need to know math
no.

>you can just draw your thing in solidworks and it will do all the calculations for you?
Yes. I do it all the time. Sometimes i do stuff by hand because you loose your knowledge really fast if you don't use it but it usually takes longer and is much more error prone. You should have a good idea of what's going on though as a sanity check.

>>2488870
>>Hey boss can I barge into the office and kick the designer off his computer so I can figure some basic trigonometry?
You don't have a computer with CAD at your machine? I wouldn't want to work that way.

>>2488955
>That's not to mention that good draftsmen don't want to completely clutter a drawing with reference dimensions everywhere.
Fck that shit when i do drawings for myself i put all the dimensions on i'll need for machining referenced to my zero AND sanity checks. As soon as you start to do some mods "real quick" or throw missing dimensions in the calculator errors tend to slip in.

[Anonymous No.2489315]

how should I adjust my sneeds if I want to use my dcmt insert as a form tool to cut a thread relief?

[Anonymous No.2489454]

>>2488868
"Whats math?"

[Anonymous No.2489493]

This is why you cant find any used machine tools near you, all sent overseas
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCiTZepgIRw

[Anonymous No.2489710]

>>2489493
>mostly japanese
phew, the midwest is still safe
i bought most of what i need already, save for a huge lathe and accessory machines

[Anonymous No.2489959]

>>2489493
Except they mostly aren't because productive machine tools in the US tend to be bought by small shops and individuals when their parent business folds or doesn't need them.

A key reason most people who say they'd like a mill or lathe but don't have one is priorities. If you want a serious machine shop you previously ensure you have plenty of room and can haul machinery and steel etc without fuss. You learn how to move them safely and easily. You study, then study more to copy professionals and pro-level hobbyists who are actually capable. You let nothing stop you.

If you're not determined you don't need machine tools.

[Anonymous No.2489969]

>>2489959
it's actually deceptively fun and easy to move machine tools in the small-midsize range that most small business starters and hobbyists would use (1-3k lbs). it does take like $500 in moving equipment to get proficient at it though, but a winch and prybar (~$50-100) will do a lot

[Anonymous No.2490014]

Testing out newly acquired lathe and faced this 1045. Feeds were good enough for the outer half of the face but too slow for inner half. Are these radial waves due to spindle bearings?

[Anonymous No.2490096]

>>2490014
Isn’t that just your SFM changing as your diameter changes?

[Anonymous No.2490158]

Had a long run time today and got to do arts and crafts. Eyeballed all dimensions and used a spring from a click pen

[Anonymous No.2490161]

>>2490014
A circle spins slower in the middle than it does on the edge.

[Anonymous No.2490174]

>>2482332
God bless that man

[Anonymous No.2490201]

>>2490014
Fix for that is a VFD which lets you vary speed on the fly making such cuts. They're cheap online and Practical Machinist has a great board on phase converters and VFD. I have both and prefer the VFDs for machine tools since they benefit immensely from variable speed. My bro had that same problem you have and doesn't any more thanks to a generic VFD with decent user ratings. (They vary quite a bit.)

[Anonymous No.2490268]

>>2490096
>>2490161
>>2490201
Sorry, me mentioning the crap inner surface finish due to the lower sfm that it got vs the outside wasn't related to the question. There are faint radial waves, lines emanating from the center and heading for the edge. Almost as if the work was wobbling axially as it rotated

[Anonymous No.2490308]

>>2489969
its not fucking fun at all, even with a forklift winch and prybar

[Anonymous No.2490404]

>>2490268
maybe your tool was vibrating

[Anonymous No.2490915]

>>2479557
Ask an Autodesk engineer anything

[Anonymous No.2491096]

Looking at doing some simple, shallow engraving in Monel K-500, not quite sure what I'm doing with the seeds and feeds. The feed specifically. I was planning on using a 60° WC D-bit with (I think) a .015" round nose. I busted one before and I'm pretty sure it was from feeding too fast through mill scale. Does .0003 IPR sound about right, or is that too conservative? Might try using a 135° inserted spot drill or a small ball end mill as well.
>>2490915
As in an engineer that uses autodesk products or engineer that works for autodesk?

[Anonymous No.2491177]

>>2485331
>Misen
Smells like worn out tooling used to make the pan. I knew they had to be shit when all the cooking youtubers began shilling them.
Hitting it with a whetstone would be the proper way to do it, but if you don't have one a file and some scotchbrite should do the trick too. Just be careful not to take too much off.

[Anonymous No.2491321]

How can I make my custom computer less boring without being an incredible amount of work to manufacture (I'll be doing the metalwork in my garage)? The panels will be black anodised aluminium, I'm planning to have those holes in the top cover the whole top for ventilation, but I've restricted them for now because my potato can't render at more than ten fps if I include them all. The bottom needs to be raised up because it's the air intake, but I think it looks really ugly. The inside of the case will be a 3D printed frame with 10x10mm aluminium profiles for rigidity.
I tried adding an IBM logo but it failed to make the design any less boring.

[Anonymous No.2491326]

>>2491321
Give it an illuminated swastika on the front

[Anonymous No.2491334]

>>2491326
I do have some old fans that look a lot like swastikas.

[Anonymous No.2491343]

The fact that titans of CNC is linked in this thread is downright disgusting. Every other machining channel is more informative and less cringe. Try channels like NYC CNC and This old Tony for actual good machining content

[Anonymous No.2491401]

>>2491321
Study case modding for ideas, but there's hardly any on 4chan so you'll need to use a search engine and check out old fora whose threads date back to when that was popular.

[Anonymous No.2491490]

New Dan Gelbart just dropped
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4wGd5TfjR4

[Anonymous No.2491514]

>>2491096
Software engineer working at Autodesk. Sorry replying so late, turns out the Autodesk office IP address is banned from 4chan

[Anonymous No.2491638]

>>2491514
can you answer
>>2488264
?

[Anonymous No.2491722]

>>2482385
Take the tolerance, cut it in half. That's now your +-.XXX. For most applications that's about what it works out to.

[Anonymous No.2491725]

>>2491514
Why is Powermill so fucking complicated for no reason? I've got 10 years of MasterCAM experience but the new shop I'm at uses Powermill and I can't get even a basic bitch 2D contour to work in it without having to look up a tutorial. Going from Solidworks to Fusion360 was easy as fuck.

[Anonymous No.2491862]

Holy fuck boys

>Maintenence guy found a brand new looking hand pulse generator in the other building and brought it to me
>PN matches and everything
>Pull out shitty old HPG and plug in new HPG
>Put machine in hand wheel mode
>Select feed on HPG of .002
>Select my Z Axiis


>Turn dial a single click

Z AXIS RAPIDS ~8 INCHES DOWN AND BURIES GAGE PIN TOOL HOLDER IS HOLDING IN MY ALUMINUM WORKPIECE

Why would the maintenence guy do this to me?

[Anonymous No.2492058]

Is there a better way to do this? Boss bought wrong tool and asked if I could fix it. Turned down the od .250 between centers. I was gonna put the tool in the spindle of the mill and spin it against a lathe cutter held in a vise but boss said no

[Anonymous No.2492098]

>>2492058
My sense of scale is off, but that looks like 30 taper, is it for a Bridgeport with an Erickson QC30 spindle?

I do things like that pretty routinely, ISO/BT tooling is way easier to come by for those machines, it's a quick fix to make them work, I'd personally have it the other way around and clamp on the arbor bolt, but it doesn't make a huge difference, it's just clearance for the spindle collar.

[Anonymous No.2492184]

>>2492098
Yeah it's an ISO 30 taper for a haas vf3. The OD I was cutting in that pic is about 3 inches for reference
It cut surprisingly well, and that hard material left a beautiful finish. Anybody know what those holders are made of and what kind of heat treating is used? Carbide handled it just fine

[Anonymous No.2492240]

>>2491862
I apologize for laughing anon

[Anonymous No.2492313]

>>2492184
>The OD I was cutting in that pic is about 3 inches for reference
Unless the angle is really fucking with it, that's a cat40. Cat30 is fucking tiny man, I don't think Haas even makes a cat30 spindle for the VF series past maybe the vf1.

Also they're usually 4140 or something like that, they're not typically very hard because you want that to take the wear, not the spindle.

[Anonymous No.2492350]

>on to what should be the easy part on a job with 8 set ups
>hand tap a few holes, flip and drill mirroring holes on the other side, and after that it can be slapped in a vise for the final operations
>take care of the first side and then get everything set up damn near perfectly
>drill first hole, interrupt cycle to check
>drill is 5/16"
>hole is at least .330" and noticeably conical
>boss tells me to try a fresh drill
>second hole comes out at .317"
>in tolerance but way too close for comfort
>find a .302" N drill
>the drilling op is followed by plunging with an end mill for a flat bottom, so the size should end up fine
>boss gives the go ahead
>third hole is about as good as you can get with a twist drill
>"this might end up working out"
>next op
>end mill snaps off and fragments as it bottoms out
>manage to fish it out and clean up the hole as best as I can
>"it's probably okay"

We've been working on this part for four days. I think a major factor was the programmer using a 90° spot drill to simultaneously spot and countersink. I've encountered problems with before, and I considered switching it for 135° drill, but it apparently worked on the first side. Plus, if I make an alteration like that and something goes wrong, it's on me. Now I'm wondering whether the previous shift even checked the holes. I'll be very upset if the part ends up getting scrapped. So much time went into the set up; most of the operations call for it to be strapped to two fixture blocks. If all the indicating, tapping, shimming, and juggling clamps ends up being a waste I might just take a sick day and sit on the beach for ten hours.

[Anonymous No.2492356]

>>2492350
scribe it out and drill by hand hahaha

[Anonymous No.2492378]

>>2491725
Powermill is just old, and I don't think there is much will to improve it much. It's still supported because some major workflows depend on it, but that's mostly bugfixes and improvements to shared libraries

[Anonymous No.2492391]

>>2488264
>>2491638
can you show an example? I don't work in that area

[Anonymous No.2492963]

I was trying to hit .749-.750 on this journal diameter but I fucked up. I stopped roughing passes at .780 and then dialed in .015 which ended up measuring .767 so I dialed in another .0165 thinking I would land on .7505 and then sand it down to .750, but somehow it overshot all the way to .748. what did I do wrong?

[Anonymous No.2492967]

I have found all the drawings for every part on my favourite handgun. Because the sale of handguns have been banned soon there will be few parts available. I am going to make as many replacement parts as I can, down to the slide
Wish me luck bros

[Anonymous No.2493008]

>>2491862
>Z AXIS RAPIDS ~8 INCHES DOWN AND BURIES GAGE PIN TOOL HOLDER IS HOLDING IN MY ALUMINUM WORKPIECE

classic

[Anonymous No.2493034]

>>2488302
here's a few different editions for free

http://libgen.rs/search.php?req=mathematics+for+the+trades&lg_topic=libgen&open=0&view=simple&res=25&phrase=1&column=def

[Anonymous No.2493053]

>>2492963
You dun goofed, next time take 3 or 4 passes the same size
Or get a more rigid lathe

[Anonymous No.2493113]

>>2492963
Quit this place bro wtf it's been years. QUIT. This shithole doesn't deserve you

[Anonymous No.2493642]

I need this part made in stainless steel. It's 80 mm (~ 3 inch ) across and 15 mm ( 6/10 inch ) thick. The tolerances are 0.05 mm generally except for the central hole which needs to hug a shaft tightly. How much will shops quote me for this?

[Anonymous No.2493646]

>>2493642
forgot pic

[Anonymous No.2493756]

>>2493642
$5-600

[Anonymous No.2494200]

I'm trying to cut an edge into a chunk of AR400 plate to make a stator splitting blade out of it. Would pic related be a good thing to use in my shitty round column mill or should I do something else? What's the functional difference between insert tooling and solid carbide?

[Anonymous No.2494208]

post bizarre setups

[Anonymous No.2494214]

>>2494200
Use the carbide endmill.
Facemills are for facemilling bigger surfaces than any edge of a blade.

[Anonymous No.2494880]

>>2494200
Solid carbide is very sharp, so it tends to cut easily and leaves a good finish in most applications, however it's also brittle, generally more expensive, and less forgiving of mistakes. I find they're good to have around in a pinch but not an everyday item for a job or hobby shop.

Insert endmills/face mills are generally more durable, per volume of material removed they tend to be cheaper, changing insert grades/types gives you significant versatility. The main issue with insert tooling is it more or less shears the material rather than cutting, so it does have a minimum SFM/Feed that you'd like to hit, lower power machines might not be able to use it effectively, plus it tends to leave a poor finish in side cutting applications.

[Anonymous No.2494881]

>>2494200
>Would pic related be a good thing to use in my shitty round column mill or should I do something else?

All I will say is that my 2700lb Bridgeport clone does NOT like using almost that exact cutter (1.5" 4-insert APKT) even in mild steel. It works great in aluminum or copper alloys, but I'm really not okay with the sound it makes for anything other than light facing cuts in harder materials.

On the other hand, pic related will easily go twice its diameter deep and hardly make a sound. If you can tolerate the poor surface finish it leaves, a roughing mill is a much better option, I think. If you can't, then just...you know...use it for roughing, then finish it off with a standard end mill.

[Anonymous No.2495609]

ok I'm going to work on my resume so I can finally quit my job. if you were hiring what kind of things would you look for in a portfolio? going to try putting pictures of parts I've made and stuff since my actual resume is going to have pretty much dick on it.

[Anonymous No.2495790]

>>2495609
Do that. Bring pics

[Anonymous No.2495804]

Why are my recommended feeds in my machinist handbook so insane? Carbide couldn't handle these feed rates. Am I missing something? This is the "conservative" chart meaning the others are fucking insane. Feeding a 1/4 drill at 40 feet per minute while spinning at 611 rpm doesn't make sense at all. Someone clarify this please

[Anonymous No.2495822]

>>2495804
"Cutting speed" is not "plow into the material this fast". It's "the cutting edge should be moving this fast relative to the material". That's is to say, how fast your drill is spinning. The chart is just a quick lookup for figuring out a speed/RPM relationship for a given drill diameter, instead of figuring out the circumference of the drill and working back from that.

[Anonymous No.2496266]

[Anonymous No.2496278]

>>2491862
>find out that was the shitty one and you were already using an ebay replacement

[Anonymous No.2497756]

hey anons, i have a threaded rod on an antique German machinery that i cant identify.
Outside diameter of the threads is ~18.7mm
it has a thread pitch of ~1.2mm or 21.8tpi which is quite unusual.
I measured the pitch by transferring it onto paper and counting them over 15 threads over 18mm

Anyone have any idea what this could be?

[Anonymous No.2497789]

>>2481110
Are machinists the most autistic trade?

[Anonymous No.2497919]

>>2497756
Its not unheard of for tool manufacturers to have made custom threads for their machines. Its not super common now, but it was years ago.
Seems odd to me too.

[Anonymous No.2497920]

>>2497789
Its takes a special type of anal and autistic person to deal with all the setup and bullshit of machining.
So yes, unironically.

[Anonymous No.2497941]

>>2495804
Looks like you are using the pocket companion. I have the revised first edition, and unless I missed something, it doesn't have a table for drill feed rates. Table 10 addresses milling cutters. In the 30th edition, tables 17 to 23 go into detail with drilling and reaming feed rates.
Section opens up with this though
(drill size, inch) | (IPR)
≤ .125 | .001-.003
.125-.25 | .002-.006
.25-.5 | .004-.010
.5-1 | .007-.015
≥1 | .010-.025
>The lower values in the feed ranges should be used for hard materials such as tool steels, superalloys, and work hardening stainless steels; the higher values in the feed ranges should be used to drill soft materials such as aluminum and brass.
>>2497789
We're definitely up there, but I imagine the competition from the guys that deal with more computer-intensive fields like mechatronics, avionics, certain areas of stationary engineering, and PLC work would have us beat.
>>2495609
A handful of things that might be good to note
>controls you have experience/proficiency with
>understanding of G-code, MDI or conversational programming
>types of machines you can or have operated
>general computer skills, work withshop management software, CAD/CAM, MS office
>blueprint reading, including GD&T and weld symbols
>complex parts or fixturing - use pictures to back this up
>work well solo, with minimal supervision, or with a team
>crane or forklift experience
>work with exotic materials
>proficiency with metrology instruments
>anything tangentially related like assembly or welding
It depends a lot on who is going to be reading it. For a big company some HR cat lady might end up seeing it first, and she won't know the first thing about the trade.

[Anonymous No.2497957]

>>2497941
>We're definitely up there, but I imagine the competition from the guys that deal with more computer-intensive fields like mechatronics, avionics, certain areas of stationary engineering, and PLC work would have us beat.
If this is true I might have to step up my 'tism levels as I just applied to a mechatronics/PLC program at my local tech college. Big change from natural resource management

[Anonymous No.2497958]

>>2497957
>PLC mechatronics
you rang?

[Anonymous No.2497979]

>>2497958
h-hey..

[Anonymous No.2498717]

I know this isn't exactly the correct thread for this but i was hoping someone might know a good answer, I'm building a machine with a moving plate similar to the way a cnc works.

This would be xy axis movement, by 2 stepper motors. the plate itself will only weigh 1.5-2 pounds max. Is there any cheap way to do this? Under $700. I'm struggling to find anything like pic related for a reasonable price. Mostly from china with outrageous shipping costs. I've found a few in the states but never anything over 300x300 mm which is the bare minimum. I need at least 350x350mm. Is it difficult to build one myself?

[Anonymous No.2498875]

local tool and die shop was looking for an apprentice last month, should I go there and see if they need more people?

[Anonymous No.2499081]

>>2497789
Yes. Severe autism. The more autistic the machinist is, the better job he does.

[Anonymous No.2499088]

>>2494208
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BlUM887Cuus

[Anonymous No.2499106]

The mold making machinist came to dab on me again this morning. Got to work on a brand new 5 axis machine.
The fuck does he need a 5 axis, molds are mostly plates and rods going trough them.
Those faggots get everything

[Anonymous No.2499222]

How did I fuck up so bad that I got chip welding on a single flute endmill?

[Anonymous No.2499243]

>>2497789

I heard it was welders.

[Anonymous No.2499278]

>>2499243
No, Welders are retarded, not autistic.
-irwelder

[Anonymous No.2499290]

>>2499222
Explain yourself

[Anonymous No.2499392]

>>2498717
The guys in the 3D print thread might have some ideas. If you have the knowledge and time it would probably be more than feasible to build from cheap off the shelf components. There's a lot of documentation from the RepRap crowd that might be helpful too.

[Anonymous No.2499408]

>>2496266
>tfw you're the machinist and qc

[Anonymous No.2499550]

>>2499243
>>2499278
Can confirm, my dads a welder and hes retarded

[Anonymous No.2500068]

>>2481110
Wire cutter

[Anonymous No.2500524]

I need to hold a hydro flask in a spin indexer. I was thinking I could shove some kind of stub mandrel with some o rings in the mouth to hold it and then have a delrin cup to hold the bottom in a live center. will this work? how do I know what size o ring to use?

[Anonymous No.2500579]

>>2500524
>how do I know what size o ring to use?
use the one that fits you fucking retard

[Anonymous No.2500611]

>>2500579
yeah but how do I know what size o ring to get vs the id of the thing vs the od of the groove for it?

[Anonymous No.2500723]

>>2500611
try measuring it, dickhole.
then again, don't. you're clearly too stupid to be doing whatever it is you're planning on doing.

[Anonymous No.2501107]

Have a new guy running my station on first shift and I'm not sure I can cope. We run three shifts and had a pretty good dynamic going with all three. The guy who was there previously wasn't a fantastic machinist, but he was usually diligent and willing to learn.
This new guy isn't new to the trade; he's been at this for nearly twice as long as I've been alive, but he doesn't seem to have a grasp on some basic concepts and doesn't accept or retain anything new. Doesn't even check drawings or other paperwork to find out what material we're dealing with. Guy grabs an expensive 7xD drill specifically for machining superalloys from the crib to drill some through holes in 304 that aren't even 2xD, runs it at about 60 FPM and feeds it at .0015 IPR with a peck.
>>2500524
Why not just make the mandrel out of delrin with a snug fit? Give it a slight taper and a rap with a soft hammer should work well enough. I'm guessing you are just engraving or something like that, so serious torque transmission or security probably isn't necessary. Probably wouldn't be too hard to make an expanding mandrel either, but might be overkill for your purposes.

[Anonymous No.2501147]

I fucked up and made a 3-56 tapped hole off location. I have one chance to fix it by redrilling in the right spot and retapping to 6-48. how can I make sure that the tap drill doesn't wander? I don't have a .120 endmill and using a 1/8th would drop me to 45% thread according to some calculator I found. my plan at this point is to plunge with a 3/32 endmill to make a sort of cloverleaf pattern and hope that the drill will go straight down the middle.

>>2501107
idk I figured I needed enough grip so that the part wouldn't slip when it's rotating.

[Anonymous No.2501233]

>>2501147
Can you get your hands on a 3mm endmill?

[Anonymous No.2501240]

>>2501233
no but I have a 3mm reamer. I don't know if that's useful though since I would still need a straight hole to ream.

[None !!kUX1+EghSy7 No.2501573]

>>2481110
hey, this was a stupid question but I think I have the correct answer.

they sell these super cool sets of blocks
they're called gauge blocks. they were designed by uh some guy called j and they redefined machining. I watched a youtube video on them recently. they're so accurately designed that when you press two of them together they stick together like magnets, even though they're not magnetic----the actual force behind them sticking together like this is unknown, but it's assumed to be like, the intermolecular forces of two super accurate sides making a vacuum?

anyways, you want some gauge blocks. get the whole set of them. they're like $60

ps if you were thinking you were being clever by asking for an absolutely 2"x2"and getting into the very core of machining by wanting a cornerstone to derive all work from, yeah, you found it. that's what gauge blocks are for

wish I could link you the video but my internet is acting funny

[Anonymous No.2501603]

>>2481792
Do you even USE hitches? They get rusty, dirty and beaten into place.

Anti-rattle is a breeze. Drill another hitch pin sized hole so you don't need a tool change, tack weld an all-metal lock nut to the hitch (easily hand-held by the bolt you're going to use), tighten bolt against the hitch after you've pinned it.

Alternate options include captive spring loaded ball or balls in the hitch (balls and spring go in tube whose ball end machining etc prevents escape, weld tube to hitch after drilling and done).

I hope this is bait because if not someone is clue and experience and reality-averse and it's not I. Inappropriately tight tolerances are not superior.

[Anonymous No.2501606]

>>2483904
Sweet deal and a nice benefit package.

t.retiree

[Anonymous No.2501902]

Has anyone dealt with Starrett in terms of defective tools before?
I bought a new tap wrench that has defectively ground jaws on it.
I technically bought it second hand, but its actually a new tool thats never been used before.

What are they going to say or do?
Are they going to need a proof of purchase? I just want them to ship me a new set of jaws, I dont really want to return the tool.

[Anonymous No.2501912]

>>2501902
Best to contact their tech support and ask. I expect they don't get many returns. They won't stab you for inquiring and may send you the parts as a goodwill gesture.

https://www.starrett.com/about/contact-us

[Anonymous No.2501937]

hello i would like to get into the hobby but do not know anything about machining
can i get free manual machines from steelshops who upgraded to cnc. what machines should i get

i want to make guns and gun accessories
what tooling do i need
I need to keep a stockpile incase the finnish pla's veh deh veh lands in my hometown and we have to gun them down so they don't stirfry our cute pupperinos

[Anonymous No.2502178]

>>2501937
>i am too lazy to use google to find the answers to my retarded questions or watch youtube videos to see what people who already do what i want to do are doing
>everybody else do my research for me and tell me everything i need
Why even live? When you're that stupid, what's even the sense?
Seriously. You might as well master saying
>Would you like fries with that, sir?
Because fast food is all you're good for. And even that's a stretch.
Fucking zoomers. Useless as tits on a boar.

[Anonymous No.2502200]

>>2502178
>>2501603
>>2501573
you're a heart breaker
(you) maker, bait taker
don't you mess around with me

[Anonymous No.2502714]

>>2502178
Why the hell would I ever use googel
Its run by joos and hindoos

[Anonymous No.2502754]

>>2501147
Spark erosion

[Anonymous No.2502851]

>>2497756
>>2497919
did measure it again over full length, turns out it is m18x1,25 spot on. funny, i got a second vintage drill who has an m18x1 thread for the chuck.

If i buy a 1/2-20 keyed chuck, can i enlarge that hole and tap new thread, or are chucks nowadays trough hardened?

[Anonymous No.2502984]

>>2502714
use what you want. it doesn't excuse being a lazy faggot trying to get people to spoonfeed you.

[Anonymous No.2503002]

>>2502754
unfortunately not availible to me

[Anonymous No.2503067]

>>2503002
Give up then
Because you need a friend with a spakr erosion machine
Same as he needs a mill machinist
Same as you both need a lathe retard specialists
Machining is an adventure, in which you do not venture alone into
You need frens with special abilities beyond your grasp
And when they help you, you hug them as fren sees fren he hugs fren
And be a fren to those that need your help
You never make it alone

[Anonymous No.2503398]

>>2502984
Does asking questions on the 'chan count?

[Anonymous No.2503422]

You guys use CNC mills and shit right?
I have a problem which maybe some gcode magic can solve?

So basically, it's pretty simple, i need to drill 50 holes.
I put the stock in the mill, drill the first 25 holes and then i need to flip the stock over to drill rest of the holes. But somehow i need to tell the mill that i flipped the stock over and that it is in different position now, since obviously it's not going to be centered anymore, plus it's upside down.

Before flipping and moving the stock i drilled 2 alignment holes, and then after flipping and moving the stock i went in with a probe and found the new coordinates of these 2 alignment holes, and now somehow i need to use this information to tell the mill, to adjust the position of all coordinates in the gcode file according to this.

Is this even possible?

[Anonymous No.2503751]

>>2503422
You need to use a new work coordinate.
Teach your first work coordinate as G54 in your machine. Teach your flipped coordinate as G55.
Call G54 for the first 25 holes and G55 for the 25 holes after flipping.

So do this:
G54
G-Code for your holes.

G-Code to park your spindle somewhere that allows you to access the part with your hands.
M00 (Temporary Program Stop)

G55
G-Code for the rest of your job.

[Anonymous No.2503894]

accidentally opened the jaws and dropped a huge piece onto my finger yesterday. it didn’t break but it’s a little fucked up.

[Anonymous No.2503932]

how much will not having the face of my part being perfectly perpendicular throw off alignment between centers? like not saw cut but just faced without dialing it in.

[Anonymous No.2504308]

>>2479557

question for pros

if there is a profile of surface tolerance of .060, which from what i understand means .030 each direction for a total of .060. The question was, can you constrain a part and still tie the profile of is it free state only. drawing does not say free state.

[Anonymous No.2504562]

blogpost incoming
>'hey anon, make a fixture for this new job'
>have one cnc mill with a 5axis trunnion takes up 80% of the Z axis minus any vise and tools
>cant fit anything in the mill
>management wont take it out because cost and more axis = better
>no manual mill because owners are cheap
>no drill press to just make some holes
>'hold on anon my dad has an old bench drill press hes not using, ill bring it in'
>40 years old smells like dry rot
>no vise
>oldhead says he has an old drilling vise he'll bring in
>its too tall / wont fit my work / advanced dry rot
>no mounting hardware
>they wont buy mounting hardware because reasons.
>no tools, no machines, no support, no fucks given
fucking lmao at my life.

[Anonymous No.2504615]

>>2504562
i have a 1901 manual hand drill you can borrow

otherwise, use a T-handle tap wrench on a drill bit that has flats

[Anonymous No.2504760]

>>2503422
Why not just program a new setup in Fusion, or whichever CAM program you're using, with a flipped coordinate system centered on one of your alignment holes?

[Anonymous No.2504767]

Made an aluminium replacement housing for the plastic magazine that came with my very expensive air rifle.

[Anonymous No.2504768]

>>2504767

[Anonymous No.2504771]

>>2504767

[Anonymous No.2504777]

>>2504767

[Anonymous No.2504805]

>>2499278
>>2499550
Just don't breath the fumes.

[Anonymous No.2505004]

>>2504767
how did you get the dimensions? I can never figure out how to model stuff that I can't easily measure.

[Anonymous No.2505062]

>>2504760
because it won't just be flipped but also slightly rotate as i flip it by hand so it's not super precise and i also don't have fancy stuff like edge detection, it's just a cheap chink grbl router

[Anonymous No.2505115]

>>2505062
how do you even determine x and y coordinates without an edge finder?

[Anonymous No.2505116]

>>2505004
spent 2 hours carefully measuring with calipers, using multiple circles and where they intersect for stuff you can't easily measure, and drawing out the thing.

Then I figured out that somebody had made a wonderful STL of the part on GrabCad.

[Anonymous No.2505118]

Are there wall scrolls of standard radiusus, hole sizes, and other such fixtures?
Was wanting to get some for the office when I need to design parts for production

[Anonymous No.2505124]

>>2505115
i put the stock in and then move spindle on the top left corner of the stock and set it as 0 work coordinates and when i need to mill on the other side i have to mill alignment holes and then flip it on them right now which is annoying

[Anonymous No.2505129]

>>2505124
it's not ideal of course bucause if the stock isn't perfectly aligned with the axes then if you mill a straight line it won't be paralel with the edge of then stock
but i am writing a program which will be able to correct gcode alignment based on two alignment holes in the stock which will also allow me to skiú shitty alingmnet dowels in two sided milling

[Anonymous No.2505134]

>>2505124
I'd highly recommend just getting one of these then. Accurate to within about 0.05mm so not the best, but it gives you at least a rudimentary way of zeroing.

[Anonymous No.2505135]

>>2505134

[Anonymous No.2505137]

>>2505135
it's a grbl router fren, it doesn't even support edge probes
the only probe it supports is Z probe
i cold probably ghettorig edge probe into it but the i would also have to write plugins for my milling a apps to use it and that is just a ton of work and i don't mill that often, also if that probe works on conductivity then it will be useless on wood, which is what i mill (and pcbs)

[Anonymous No.2505141]

>>2505137
you really don't know what an edge finder is?
you need to read some machining books
it involves no electronics or electricity of any kind

[Anonymous No.2505147]

Rate my DIY inside diameter mounted bench grinder

[Anonymous No.2505148]

>>2505137
to use this edge finder, all you need is a spindle that you can manually control in x and y direction and turn on at ~500rpm. You're at the edge when the tool no longer wobbles.

[Anonymous No.2505183]

>>2505137
please watch, you can get an edge finder for like $10

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_qiPE5z7SE

[Anonymous No.2505187]

>>2505147
does it work?

[Anonymous No.2505190]

>>2505135
What rotation do people usually use?

[Anonymous No.2505340]

>>2505190
about 500 rpm

[Anonymous No.2505411]

>>2505187
Yes

[Anonymous No.2505543]

>>2505137
lol are you fucking retarded

[Anonymous No.2506169]

>>2487691
That looks great.

[Anonymous No.2506846]

>trying to turn down od of 6' pipe so I can fit some sleeve on
>get it close enough so that I can tap the sleeve on with my deadblow
>now it's stuck in place and won't fit back though the spindle with it on
>lathe is only 4' between centers
had to remove the tailstock so I could pull it out that way. also damn I don't know what a53 is but it cut so nice even being hollow and with like 5" sticking out of the chuck.

[Anonymous No.2507006]

how do I make accurately make small diameter flat bottomed holes? I need to make 3/32 and 1/8 holes for dowel pins and I can't just drill and ream them because of dimensional restrictions with the drill point. I tried drilling and then following with an endmill and just plunging with an endmill but it always makes an oversize hole. if I only drill it works well enough, but I need the flat bottom. is runout on the endmill fucking me?

[Anonymous No.2507179]

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but are there any solvents that will let me electroplate at high voltages? The less toxic the better.

[Anonymous No.2508086]

>>2507006
If you have cnc, you do it with a smaller endmill, spiral down program.
If you dont have cnc, get a boring head for the sides of the hole, but use a smaller endmill for bottom of the hole, where ypu zero in the boring heads tooth.

[Anonymous No.2508095]

>>2482385
Compare the position from the drawing/model and compare it to the actual results. Take the absolute difference between nominal and actual and Pythagoras that shit to get the true distance from the ideal.
That being said is what I do for X and Y axes, I ignore z axis unless it is too tight because perpendicularity is for dummies :^)

[Anonymous No.2508096]

[Anonymous No.2508229]

>>2508096
>>2508096
>Not using a dead center in the mill chuck to guide your tap while hand tapping perfectly on center
Ishiggity
That's what the holes in the back of taps are for

[Anonymous No.2508290]

My coolant pool now has mushrooms growing in it
It became thusly 2 years ago, when it was already full of spit, blood, coffee, beer, cigarette ash, dirt, dust, snot, boogers and everything except piss amd shit, then some locus, hornets amd flies died in it all the while water only was poured until the table started to rust when it was "cleaning" call which meant chipping is to be shoveld out.
Its still "white" (more like yellow) and i had it spill on cuts amd bruises on my hands and even sprayed in my eye.
One dude got it sprayed in his mouth when the blue segment hose he was adjusting broke off and sprayed while he was talking.
It is still coolimg and lubricating just fine though.
If we were to shut down the machine for more than 4 days, may God have mercy on us from the putrid smell.
Its bad enough on mondays.
I was thinking we get our boss to buy us some sparkling tabs that clean big canisters to desinfect the coolant, because we dont waste time on cleaning it, because it would take us half a shift or even half a day to drain it, clean the pool and pour in new coolant.
We spend 4 canisters of coolant a year and the machine rests only 18 hours a week.
Are there biohazard rules to this?
I never got an infection from it despite it pouring amd stingimg amd later hurtimg my cuts and bruises (never hurt myself seriously enough to call an ambulance or need stitching, just a bandaid)

[Anonymous No.2508404]

>>2508086
where do I find a boring bar small enough to make a 3/32 hole? it would have to be toothpick sized.

[Anonymous No.2508415]

>>2508229
for me, it's power tapping

[Anonymous No.2508425]

>>2508229
Im not sure holding a morse taper center in a chuck is a very good idea
They sell spring loaded tap followers for this exact purpose

[Anonymous No.2508454]

I wanted to make a dish sort of thing out of delrin to use on the tailstock end for some pressure turning, but 3 1/4" diameter round is like $140/foot. I wonder if I can trepan the same shape out of some 1/2" flat that I have lying around.

[Anonymous No.2508502]

>>2508404
Sorry i didnt read that
Try spark erosion if you need it absolute

[Anonymous No.2508551]

>>2508404
You could try grinding some old drills into what would essentially be single flute reamers. Would be pretty tricky to get it right though, especially for plunging into the bottom. Grinding a flat bottom drill isn't terribly complicated, but for the sizes you're working with it would be a pain. Probably worth trying if you have some old drills laying around though.
>>2508290
That absolutely needs to be pumped, purged, and sanitized. OSHA website (assuming you are burger) has a page on metalworking fluids, but it's not clear to me whether the coolant simply being nasty is a violation. There are limits set on aerosol exposure noted. The microbes might be covered under some other category.
https://www.osha.gov/metalworking-fluids
You can call or otherwise contact them to ask though. Don't request an inspection unless you really mean it.

[Anonymous No.2508895]

>>2508551
>That absolutely needs to be pumped, purged, and sanitized.
its been going like that for 3 years
none of us are vaccinated and we all have corona antibodies
i dont think anyone got sick either, ever
and the coolant still cools and lubricates
we just add water when its low

[Anonymous No.2508915]

>>2508096
first few turns of the tap were actually done on the mill for that exact reason, but it's prime chinesium so I didn't it

[Anonymous No.2508916]

>>2508096
trust* it

[Anonymous No.2509043]

>>2508425
What do you call the thing that the chuck is clamped on in >>2492058 ?
Is that not a dead center, or would that be considered a driver? The tool in that pic is what I use to guide taps on milling machines. I've made a couple of these in different sizes for this reason and ive always heard them called dead centers

[Anonymous No.2509081]

>>2509043
Spring center, tapping center
>>2508895
Coolant isn't going to give you the coof. It could absolutely give you staph or legionella, among other things. There's almost certainly microbes digesting plastic and rubber components in the machine too.

[Anonymous No.2509092]

>place where I work is half machine shop and half paint shop
>except management decided that running a duct from the spray booth to the outside was too expensive
>has never replaced the filters that were only catching 50% of the vocs when they were fresh
I'm going to quit soon but if I didn't want to not fuck over the other people working there I would call osha on them on the way out

[Anonymous No.2509223]

Does anyone know which aluminium alloy is common for standard cast pistons? 4032 and 2618 are higher end replacements, which I don't need to go that far but I want to pick an alloy that isn't weaker than standard pistons

[Anonymous No.2509898]

I bought a
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQJPE1M
Grizzly 10 x 22 lathe
Im trying to figure out what sort of tooling I need for it
Currently I got a
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q2491VR
set
Is there more I need to g et, or is this good enough for me to figure out on my own?

My intent at least starting is to smooth out a bunch of 3d prints I've made in carbon fiber nylon, they are too thick to meet spec
My secondary interest is making light saber hilts for the local 501st legion

[Anonymous No.2509963]

>>2509898
Three and a half grand for that thing?
holy sucker born every minute

[Anonymous No.2509974]

>>2509898
Cutting FDM nylon with general purpose china special inserts probably won't go very well. You want something sharp. Get some 3/8" HSS blanks and grind a nice edge with good positive rake. Carbon fiber will chew up the edge quickly, but it takes maybe a minute to regrind.

[Anonymous No.2510048]

>>2509974
These arent real carbide?
>>2509963
A boomer coworker told me grizzly is good, is he just well out of whack from back when he was automating factories?

[Anonymous No.2510065]

>>2510048
No, Grizzly is pretty good. I think their price point is a little high on some things. That lathe, for example. (I'm pretty sure that's what Clough42 uses, if you follow his channel.) Thing about minilathes - and I'm pretty sure that still falls in the minilathe class - is that they're supposed to be cheap.
On the other side of that coin, sure you can get an authentic chinkshit one for under a grand, but then you have to spend another grand to make it as usable as the one you got.
So, I don't know. If it were me, for three and a half large, I'd have went for something from machineio or ebay whatever. e.g., here's a Lodge & Shipley 14x60 for fifteen hundred bucks that needs a little work. machinio.com/listings/74635989-1953-lodge-shipley-220440-engine-lathe-in-roanoke-va It's probably worth more than that in scrap. Here's a South Bend that's directly comparable to that Grizzly ebay.com/itm/265872792891 for 1900 bucks. I saw a Clausing 14x54 that needed a clutch for $1500.
But if you can't find one right in your area, you have to figure packing and freight and rigging and shit, too. So I don't know.
Look, I'm not trying to be one of these types that says you have to have a $25,000 CNC lathe to make coat racks and blondihacks and shit in your garage on the weekends or whatever, but you just laid down some pretty serious coin for a slightly-better-than-hobby-grade machine. If you don't mind the expense and ain't making payments on it, or if it's what makes sense for your available space, then more power to you.
Didn't mean to break you balls or anything.

[Anonymous No.2510090]

>>2510048
They are carbide (at least there is no particular reason to believe otherwise) but they aren't going to be suited for cutting plastics. A lot of the cheap imported inserts are actually pretty good when it comes to steel.
They may work alright for printed parts, but my thinking is that a strong blunt edge (typical on general purpose inserts) will be bulldozing the material more than cutting it and compromise the integrity of the bonds between layers. A sharp edge will cut the soft material with less violence.
It's also a good idea to start out grinding your own tools to get a better understanding of the machining process.

[Anonymous No.2510115]

what's the trick to interrupted cuts without smearing the edges? do I go with high rpm so my feed per rev is low or do I go slow so there's less force from the tool beating the edge?

[Anonymous No.2510125]

>>2510090
>but my thinking is

My *experience* is that machining FDM prints is just all-around awful if your tooling isn't razor sharp. Nylon's high strength combined with its notoriously-bad interlayer adhesion is going to make this even more important. Hope you don't have a lot of this to do, since, as pointed out, the carbon fiber is going to dull a fine edge like that pretty quickly.

Some very sharp, polished, micro-grain carbide might last longer, but I'd just hassle with resharpening a HSS tool if you don't already have some. And have fun with the bird nests, either way.

[Anonymous No.2510272]

>>2510125
functionally its going to be under .15mm of material removal
Its some collets that are being churned out en masse that need to be kept to spec, and while the volumetric expansion has been dialed in, its still got some issues
Unfortunately the mesh monkey cant fix anything as these were submitted as final prior to printing, and can't be deviated from, despite the fact there are engineering drawings the final product must match within .1mm
The worst part is im the actual engineering intern and never got asked to show up

>>2510065
Unfortunately I have a shit show of reqs
First, has to be 110
Cant do 240 cause theres already 2 aux panels and the site is used up
No, I dont get how its possible, I personally think someone routed a bunch of the light banks to indivdual breakers

As to cost, yeah sucks major balls, but kind of stuck, and frankly the reviews of post covid vevors has been terrible to the point I fear on this grizzly

My intent is later to use a gerbil controller I have and make at least the main feed controlled, with later powering of the cross feed to effect a cnc lathe
First plan after a few practice works on aluminium and wood(I can do wood right?) Is to put on some i gauging scales I bought
Sadly I cant seem to find quality dro for this, Im probably just being stupid by trying to find the original grizzly dro and not some generic name

Actual intent of this is fairly simple, just tolerancing parts and then making random homebrew shit
I dont have plans of like making a bugatti for this, though making some guns could be fun, its legal in my state, though I would probably need a mill, and for that I would probably save for a year to get a digital or even cnc one to make crazy shit

[Anonymous No.2510708]

>>2502200
Experience shows the many spoonfags here post even stoopider shit than that.

[Anonymous No.2510721]

damn I broke my endmill because I forgot the low carbon steel I was cutting had a glass insert in it

[Anonymous No.2510733]

>>2510272
tons of older hobbyish machines will be 110. smaller south bends, logans, atlas, etc.
but those are <1000 lbs lathes, tiny.
i got a 1200 pound leblond regal 13x30 with a 110v, 3/4 HP motor. cost me $1400. i plug it in wherever i damn well please and it's a beast compared to those bench top lathes, plus gearhead so fast switching speeds and feeds. any larger swing/weight and they pretty much have to be >1 HP, 3 phase. i think leblond underpowered their regal lathes because the head gears are thin and weak

[Anonymous No.2511760]

>>2510272
>make at least the main feed controlled, with later powering of the cross feed to effect a cnc lathe
Check out Clough42 and his electronic lead screw. Should drop right in for you.
There's another jewtuber Kent VanderVelden. Does some amazing shit with his minilathe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bqa2grG0XtA

[Anonymous No.2511918]

i bought that fancy micrometer thing and measured runout on my spinder is 0.05mm so that means if i want to make a 5mm dia hole i have to design the hole to be 4.95dia, is that correct?

[Anonymous No.2511953]

Are online machining services worth the money and if so which service do you recommend?

[Anonymous No.2511992]

Any recommendations for piece holders for soldering?

[Anonymous No.2512359]

I did it guys I outlasted my dickass boss. not intentionally but every time I would decide it was time to quit I would end up playing video games instead of looking for a new job. I still think I want to get a new job though since I'm not really getting anywhere by staying.

[Anonymous No.2512455]

>>2499408
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH

[Anonymous No.2512456]

>>2505340
>>2505190
I use 700 rpm it does the job really well

[Anonymous No.2512712]

>>2511992
clamps

[Anonymous No.2512950]

I've been using 3/8" shank insert holders for years because the bigger 3/4" shank ones I was given had inserts with no chip breaker and I couldn't figure out how to not make rat nest. it just dawned on me that I could have just gotten different inserts that have chip breakers and been using bigger and more rigid tools all this time.

[Anonymous No.2513233]

Is there a cheap alternative to these mitee bite inserts? Can’t find anything under like 100$ :/