/3dpg

[Anonymous No.2462208]

Last Thread: >>2455586

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Flashforge creator pro 2
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own voron, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://printables.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.

[Anonymous No.2462222]

Can anyone identify this fruity extrusion?
It's from a chang microscope
The arm is too short, so I want to make an adapter that will let me attach a longer stick

[Anonymous No.2462261]

>>2462222
Why identify? Just measure it out, and make it. Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.2462273]

Almost done with this behemoth (in ABS of course, so it lasts until a future civilization digs it up).

[Anonymous No.2462275]

>>2462208
Re-posting

Why do 3d pens use pla, or abs, and sometimes pcl, only, besides these being in comparable temperature range?
Are other filaments more damaging or have properties that are no-good?

2nd question:
The "pen" version of PLA is around 170-195, but it's hard to find PLA (in my country) that goes below 185. Will the normal 185 degree filament damage the pen?

And generally what is the best surface for drawing to prevent warping of the base layer?

[Anonymous No.2462277]

>>2462275
No idea about 3d pens, but PLA is PLA, so if the range for 3d drawing is 170-195 then you should be fine. Lots of people print PLA at 200 (I like 210). That's for laying down smooth flat ribbons of liquid PLA though, so maybe the lower temp of the pen is so that you have it come out with some rigidity still to draw it in the air. The glass transition for PLA starts at less than 100C IIRC, so anything above that is effectively in a melted state, to varying degrees.

[Anonymous No.2462285]

>>2462277
Are the 185 degree PLA spools any different than ones rated for printing at 200 degrees by stores?

Like can they clog the nozzle or "explode" (that's what I seen in comments, but many retards use pens, so I take these comments with a pinch and few spoons of salt) if I'd try printing at 180?

[Anonymous No.2462287]

>>2462285
Just to add: the super cheap PLA that came with the pen kept making bubbles and left weird brown spots while printing at 180.

Now I'm using filament of unnamed brand someone got at a discount store but never used and it's fine at 175 but also up to around 195.

[Anonymous No.2462290]

>>2462285
Well, if it's not melting enough, that could be hard on the extruder gears, which I imagine are pretty small in a 3d pen. How much are you able to adjust the temperature of your pen?

[Anonymous No.2462291]

>>2462290
it goes up to 245, but I'd say the 210 for abs might be the safe temp for longer printing (as it's the one in manual).
the lowest temp is PCL so maybe something around 50 degrees

[Anonymous No.2462298]

I recently tried printing with ABS but it doesn't want to stick to the build surface.
I'm using a Crealty Ender 3 Pro with the hot end set to 250c and the mat set to 110c.
I already tried using a glue stick but that doesn't work either.

[Anonymous No.2462299]

>>2462298
ABS doesn't like shit on the plate, best bet is to wash your build surface with dish soap, wipe down with a paper towel and isopropyl, scuff with steel wool, then wipe with IPA again. You don't have to scuff it every time, but every now and then will help the recharge the gripping power.
Also, since you are on an open printer, slow down your speed to like half of what you think you should run, and use zero part cooling fan since the hotend fan will be plenty.
It isn't that easy, but is doable depending on part geometry; tall ans skinny is ok, but long parts will be harder. Also 8-15 line count brim is basically mandatory, and if you bump your first layer height to .25mm it will make the brim stronger as well as give you more available squish to get a good first layer.

[Anonymous No.2462304]

>>2462299
Thanks for the help.
>it isn't that easy, but is doable depending on part geometry; tall ans skinny is ok, but long parts will be harder.
I want to print something fairly big.
Think I'll just print it in PLA.

[Anonymous No.2462307]

>>2462304
NOOOO!

[/out/ie No.2462311]

Mi bed sensors anus is bleeding, new part ordered, Prusa says it takes till next week and they don't offer express to me.
What an outrage, right guys?

[Anonymous No.2462353]

I often get a stuffy nose and sneeze alot when im filing down PETG 3d prints to make parts fit together better. Am I slowly killing myself and is this bad to do in my bedroom?

[Anonymous No.2462359]

Is it ethical to remix (part of) a paid model from something like cults and publishing it for free in thingiverse/printables?

[Anonymous No.2462377]

>>2462311
>not inspecting the wiring himself and soldering as needed
Do you want it fast and cheap or not?

[/out/ie No.2462386]

>>2462377
Fuck is you rambling about?
It's a Chink clone, i have mouth soldered everything! Chewed off the cables, scraped off the pen printed parts from my kitchen table in the night.
Filed the metal parts with a smooth stone and carved the chips out of a block of molten sand in my spare time.
Fuck is you rambling about?

[/out/ie No.2462387]

>>2462386

[Anonymous No.2462408]

>>2462353
just an increased chance of the various respiratory cancers and breathing disorders, nothing too important to worry about.

[Anonymous No.2462410]

>>2462359
fuck em, you paid for it and transformed it. it's yours now.

[Anonymous No.2462411]

Okay boys, it took 6 days to print and 2 days to cure but my face is done

[Anonymous No.2462428]

>>2462261
you try measuring it
I don't own a scanner and it's a shitty oblong shape

[Anonymous No.2462433]

>have a nearly full spool of a color I wouldn't normally use
>printing just for desk clutter to use it up
>try cleaning stringing with heat gun
>get distracted for a second and ruin print
>not upset since I'm just trying to use the spool anyways
>decide I might as well pen in the visor since I can't ruin print more
>it finally clicks that I can test paint schemes by scaling my models down and printing tests like this
I feel like a fucking retard for never realizing this before
What are the best ways to mark up an unsanded print, the copic markers I have bleed through layer lines too much
And preferably I'd like to avoid going the tabletop mini route of priming and then painting that way

Also very impressed at the level of detail being preserved when printed so quickly on a model scaled down less than 1/5th the size of the original model

[Anonymous No.2462435]

>>2462411
pretty cool stuff. it's interesting to think that in the past we've kept photos of our loved ones to remember them after they've passed but now we can just print a miniature version of them right at our desk. we're living in a scifi universe.

[Anonymous No.2462440]

I fucking did it, short-circuited the mainboard on my ender 5 plus 2 days ago
Replaced the BTT 2.0 with a 3.0, thing fired up like nothing
Just waiting for the phaeths firefly hotend since I have to replace that shit anyways and im golden

[Anonymous No.2462443]

>>2462353
Just wear a mask bigot

[Anonymous No.2462450]

>>2462443
Plastic fumes are a myth to make you poison yourself with carbon filter particles.

[Anonymous No.2462457]

>>2462450
You fool, how much you’ve got left to learn

[Anonymous No.2462464]

>>2462273
1 wikipedia

[Anonymous No.2462466]

>>2462440

[Anonymous No.2462471]

>>2462466
Better turn it on again one more time to make sure, I didn't quite catch what was sparking in the vid.

[Anonymous No.2462479]

>>2462466
>>2462440
Don't ever unplug or plug stepper motors while the power is on.

[Anonymous No.2462485]

>>2462479
That wasnt my webm, i short circuited the thing while cleaning filament that basically filled the entire head and me being a retard used metal pincers

[Anonymous No.2462497]

>>2462485
What happens when you pack the housing with steel wool and turn it on? Plz report back, this important to our democracy.

[Anonymous No.2462500]

>>2462275
I never heard about pen version of PLA, and using PLA and PETG in my cheap 3D pen. Maybe expensive pens are fine tuned for using special expensive plastic only, it looks reasonable.

[Anonymous No.2462509]

I want to 3d print a whole house

[Anonymous No.2462510]

>>2462509
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHSYEH133HA

[Anonymous No.2462519]

>>2462408
considering I had to live in asbestos and black mold filled barracks for 8 months some plastic dust can't be that bad right?

[Anonymous No.2462523]

stupid question here

Can you print in varying layer heights in the same print? For example, do the exterior in 0.05mm and do the infilling at 0.2mm ?

[Anonymous No.2462531]

>>2462523
It would be possible but not practical and I know of no implementations.

[Anonymous No.2462540]

>>2462497
you summon a succubus waifu

[Anonymous No.2462547]

>>2462523
Another good implementation of this would be something like .3mm layers on more vertical walls, and then switching to .1mm layers as you transition the more horizontal layers. Like the body of a statue vs. the top of it's head.

[Anonymous No.2462553]

is this what it's supposed to look like after leveling?

[Anonymous No.2462555]

>>2462440
What are those blue pieces for?

[Anonymous No.2462567]

>>2462553
depends on the units
3 units in 0.01mm is great
3 units in 1mm you might as well be printing on an orange

[Anonymous No.2462576]

>>2462567
I don't know the answer to that but here are these if they help

[Anonymous No.2462580]

>>2462553
Should look more like the tranny flag, if you get the old-school pride flag you fucked up, and if you get the new pride flag your plate is bent to fuck.

[Anonymous No.2462595]

>>2462576
personally for me those numbers are waaaay out of the ''yep looks good'' zone
it might be just the machinist in me but if my setup isnt within a 0.1mm max I cant deal with it
I even went autistic with aluminium tape to even out the warp in the structural part of the bed itself

[Anonymous No.2462596]

>>2462275
Normal PLA is usable in a pen. It's a bit of a different paradigm than printing so doesn't need to be as hot- and you don't want it as hot because you need to manipulate it as it cools. I use spools in my pen and samples in my printer all the time.

[Anonymous No.2462599]

>>2462553
I'd try again.

[Anonymous No.2462609]

When I move the x or y axis fast enough with the printer switched off it generates power and starts the screen as long as I keep moving.

[Anonymous No.2462612]

First timer here.
Ordered Neptune 2S and 1kg of Esun's PLA+
Did i fucked up?

[Anonymous No.2462621]

>>2462609
Yes steppers act as generators when moved.

[Anonymous No.2462628]

>>2462553

Its odd, I spent half the day leveling my bed running mesh bed and using blue tape in spots under my flex sheet and got it down to .07 variance, but when I did mesh bed and started printing, and the nozzle was too far and printing in the air, I adjusted z probe, but it did not help, so I said fuck it. I removed the tape reset z offset, printed patches in all 4 corners 3 prints, and a hour later im printing perfect layers.

so *shrugs* variance is a myth desu.

[Anonymous No.2462630]

Responding to this comment here >>2462182

My voron v0.1 does not have an exhaust on it. As >>2462185 said here, anon is talking about a voron mod called "nevermore" there is a mod for the small 0.1 voron called "nevermore micro" that you can use carbon pellets recirculate the heat and remove the smell, because my printer is so small this is mounted on the side and not underneath the bed.

[Anonymous No.2462631]

>>2462628
at least you can actually level stuff, imagine being one of those poor idiots that bought one of the recent anycubic printers with an "auto leveling bed" that can't actually be manually adjusted and they haven't released the firmware source code.

[Anonymous No.2462636]

>>2462631
I would be doing what I did to my kingroon kp3s, get access to the controller board, start probing cpu and see what I can reverse engineer, and honestly I bet you can dump the firmware but idk if its encrypted.

Man I really need to get more into reverse engineering again.

when I still had my ender 3, I thought about working on a project that would use 28byj-48 stepper motors at each adjustment knob that have gears on them, have my digital dial indicator from harbor freight, go over each adjustment knob and turn the knob CW or CCW, do it to all 4 corners and check the middle.

There would be some manual preparations, basically you adjust one corner manually until your satisfied, tell the value (3mm for example) and dial will zero out then go over your reference point and go down on the z until its homed, and then what ever value you get on that corneer you go to each corner and adjust until the value is the same, and check the middle for difference in distance.


But that was 4 years ago and never attempted to work on it.

[Anonymous No.2462657]

Any recent innovations in the 3d printing space? I've noticed the big chinese companies just keep releasing ender 3 clones with different names and sizes but nothing exciting.

[Anonymous No.2462671]

>>2462612
seems okay. just remember the plus in PLA+ means something different for each manufacturer.

[Anonymous No.2462672]

>>2462657
I'm waiting for 6 foot tall printers for the home. That and drooling over 8k resin.

[Anonymous No.2462690]

>>2462657
theres this machine that uses resin gel in a fdm printer with uv lights on the extruder that prints very quickly without supports

[Anonymous No.2462692]

>>2462466
r/ender 3 in a nutshell

[Anonymous No.2462714]

>>2462609
r/ender 3 in a nutshell

[Anonymous No.2462730]

>>2462692
>>2462714

jesus christ thats accurate I use to help peoplebut when I saw 10-20 threads of people wondering why their extruder isn't working and its very obvious the plastic arm if broken you just *sigh* and just stop helping

and holy fuck videos of people quickly moving their bed and be like "hurr *drools* im the first to discover this"

[Anonymous No.2462735]

>>2462730
half the posts in that sub wouldnt exist if people knew what concentric nuts are

[Anonymous No.2462742]

>>2462735
I'll be honest I didn't know what they were when I got my pc, but I did notice it, just didn't know the name. then I think I heard it in a youtube video when I was adjusting my v-wheels.

[Anonymous No.2462743]

>>2462742
not pc, I meant ender 3, fuck im dumb.

[Anonymous No.2462746]

still got some marble pla left, what are some other good male sculptures besides Michelangelo's David, preferably of androgynous men, as I am a twink appreciator

[Anonymous No.2462762]

>>2462621
thanks this will be important knowledge when civilization crumbles and I have to power a lightbulb.

[Anonymous No.2462773]

>>2462672
You could have a delta that tall pretty easily.

[Anonymous No.2462778]

Another white petg print.
Before I couldn't clamp these small boards on my board vice because the adjustment knobs would just crash into each other.
So I printed some Extensions.
Edges are goopy looking though, I think I have the layer height set too high.

[Anonymous No.2462780]

Took me forever to get all the pin allocations right on that fucking 144 pin MCU but I finally got Marlin fully working on a Qidi X-One.

[Anonymous No.2462801]

>>2462730
Is the screw that my Z axis rides on supposed to wobble a little bit at the top?

[Anonymous No.2462802]

>>2462801
yeah

[Anonymous No.2462804]

>>2462801
Ideally there should be no runout. I shimmed my z-motor with pieces of paper until I got close to no wobble.

Also there are two small screws that hold the lead screw nut to the gantry. They should be loose enough that the nut can shimmy a little bit to make up for tiny amounts of wobble. If you take the time to get it perfect you'll be massively rewarded with flawless layer lines.

[Anonymous No.2462809]

>>2462804
yeah.

[Anonymous No.2462833]

Is freecad worth using yet? I'm tired of fusion 360's ten project limit

[Anonymous No.2462835]

>>2462833
Depends. Are you a masochist?

[Anonymous No.2462836]

https://youtu.be/TxO46yjE8dI?t=134
so they have their printer nozzle canted at an angle like on a belt printer, but the bed is stationary

[Anonymous No.2462837]

>>2462555
pretty sure those are heatsinks that go on chips/FETs

[Anonymous No.2462838]

>>2462835
no. dammit.

[Anonymous No.2462843]

>>2462628
did the printer use the previous messured values

[Anonymous No.2462844]

>>2462746
this one is pretty cool
>as I am a twink appreciator
oh...

[Anonymous No.2462864]

>>2462479
Fuck. I've done this all the time. Mostly because Marlin F/W is retarded and i can't use G30 to probe the bed at the current position after having moved the head in pronterface for some reason.

[Anonymous No.2462870]

>>2462595
Kek. I just got a 6mm thick hardned plate glass and slapped it on the bed. The chinesium bed can warp all it want, the glass plate will just even shit out. In terms of flatness, you really can't get something flatter than glass for cheap.

[Anonymous No.2462884]

printing newb here.

i found this stl of a RTX 2060 shroud for my card.

https://github.com/bluepylons/RTX2060_Shroud/tree/master/3D-print

i want to print it but i need help choosing how to print it.
For context everytime i printed something the raft was painful as fuck to remove and for smaller pieces i didn't use a raft at all.

If i print it upright it takes a lot of time but i don't think i need a raft and it can be easily removed from the hot plate. but it takes nearly 16hrs to do and that's annoying ( cause the printer is at work)

if i print it face down it takes just 4 hrs but i feel like i need a raft and its going to be gigantic and painful to remove.

any insights ? thx

[Anonymous No.2462897]

>>2462884
I'd print it which ever way puts the flat part at the bottom (I dunno what is the top or bottom of the model) with a 3 line skirt but I have a glass bed.

If you don't have a piece of glass for the bed go to whatever bigbox store you like and have them cut you one. It'll be like 5 bucks. Buy some binder clips and you've just upgraded your bed to glass.

[Anonymous No.2462909]

>>2462884
This is how Henrik would print it.

[Anonymous No.2462912]

>>2462909
Oh wait, change initial layer height to .25mm, that will generally give you a better surface if you give it a little squish to make it more uniform.

[Anonymous No.2462913]

>>2462870
I hate printing on glass, fuck that shit

[Anonymous No.2462944]

>>2462843
probably, after I took a break for a few hours I did remove the tape and values in the config and just tried a different way, my bed is slanted as fuck, but layers are perfect.

[Anonymous No.2462947]

The previous thread got me interested in kingroon kp3s, but what's the situation of its aftermarket parts/community support? I assume it's somewhat decent as it's a prusa mini clone(?)

[Anonymous No.2462980]

>>2462833
it's not a 10 project limit it's a 10 rw files limit. you can have hundreds of old files stuffed in the back as read only as long as you have 10 or less active. you can also open up an 11th and export it as stl without saving which I've done for basic bitch shapes. finish your shit fampie, or at least admit it's a dead project and send it to the graveyard. you can always change it back to read only (you won't)

[Anonymous No.2462983]

>>2462947
just buy a prusa

[/out/ie No.2463003]

>>2462746
There is nothing androgynous about David. Dude is, in fact, quite manly. Look at the hands, m8.
Check out my dude, the Thot killer. Didn't print him, he was resin cast i think.

[/out/ie No.2463020]

>>2462947
I bought a FYSETC Prusa Mini Clone for 220€, printed parts from Spain for 40€, so all in all 260€. It's a very good kit.
I ordered a second kit to gift to my father.

[Anonymous No.2463021]

These anycubic fucks made the minimum z offset increment in their touchscreen 0.05mm so I have to fine tune it in cura I guess?

[Anonymous No.2463042]

>>2462897
>>2462909

thanks here is the finished job with everything installed. I need to do a mini pwm -- > x2 pwm mod , if anyone here has any experience doing that any help would be welcome

[Anonymous No.2463043]

>>2463042
why THE FUCK is it upside down

[Anonymous No.2463053]

>>2463003
feminine benis

[Anonymous No.2463060]

>>2463003
The talent that went into that sculpture is amazing but what hits me the hardest is the sculptor has never seen a boob when the girl is laying down.

[Anonymous No.2463076]

>>2462208
How dangerous is it to smooth with soldering iron PLA prints?

I got a normal fan blowing at me and slightly open window.
Would a normal corona mask be enough to be 100% safe?

[Anonymous No.2463082]

>>2463043
That's just the orientation it was printed in. Gets carried over in the metadata, but should get patched in the next update of the simulation.

[/out/ie No.2463092]

>>2463060
Nor what a cut throat looks like.
I think i ordered them from Amazon.de for 70€ a piece.

[/out/ie No.2463097]

I'm looking for a good Venus of Milo file. I'll cut it into pieces to print as large as possible, print them in ABS and smooth them good with acetone.
At least that is the plan.

[Anonymous No.2463100]

>>2463097
Can't go wrong with the original
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Scan_the_World_-_Venus_de_Milo.stl

[Anonymous No.2463143]

>>2463043
you're phone was upside down you dummy. you're not one of those left handed demons are you?

[Anonymous No.2463154]

my ender 3 prints fine when ever Im not using the part cooling fan, but when I use it after the first layer I hear a clicking sound and then the printer restarts. Any idea why?

[Anonymous No.2463162]

>>2463154
My guess, fan is either bad drawing too much current or the mosfet on the board powering it is bad and drawing too much current. Swapping the fan or measuring it's current draw would be the first steps i'd take.

[Anonymous No.2463168]

>>2463053
It's the mighty penis of a warrior doing battle.
A body flooded with adrenaline that causes less blood to be pumped into unimportant things so more can go into the muscles.

[/out/ie No.2463174]

>>2463100
Cheers!
>>2463143
>>2463043
The orientation is in the jpegs exif data, which gets stripped away by 4chins software, you dinguses.
>>2463168
That's right.
Dude is a grower, not a shower.
He has a blood penis, not a meat penis.

[Anonymous No.2463181]

TIME TIME HAS COME AND SO HAVE I

[Anonymous No.2463203]

>>2463181
The worst filament I ever used was eSun filament.

Tangled, broke off when left sitting for a while, and hard to get a nice print out of it.

[/out/ie No.2463227]

>>2463181
Pill me on why you picked this printer instead of an Ender3 or Prusa clone?
>>2463203
I too have taken the premium pill. I order my filament at Prusa, it's just superior in all aspects.

[Anonymous No.2463240]

Speaking of filament I just got some of the cheapest pla+ I've ever bought from llldmax.com. Was around $16 a kg after discounts. Haven't used it yet so can't comment on quality. Hoping for good things.

[Anonymous No.2463243]

>>2463240
>crystal
dis gon b gud

[Anonymous No.2463246]

>>2462612
you picked a good printer.

[Anonymous No.2463259]

>>2462947
>me talking about kingroon kp3s last thread

I feel partially responsible on this. So I will give my input on this.

I am mainly testing the kp3s to see if its worth the money and mods to make a "micro farm" for my personal use.

Community support you might be able to find one, but since I am not complete newb I rarely need to ask about stuff. The KP3S newest version is 3.0 I had to print 3-4 different fan shrouds cause they all claimed to be for kp3s + v6 hotend. None of them even were close to being the correct length, but I ended up using one that was the least useless.
Granted this was is because I added an inductive probe and I mounted it on the stock metal enclosure, since I can't seem to find and printable models other than a modded afterburner for the kp3s that has a inductive probe mount option.
and the mount I have for my inductive probe was designed for I believe ender 3 because it mounted on the slotted holes of the stock metal enclosure, similar to my kp3s
>pic related moments ago before this post

Aftermarket wise I list below what I did and could be considered minimum recommended mods to do.

I put inductive probe (honestly before the probe manual bed leveling was more than enough)

so mods to my printer
>klipper with orange pi zero 2 connected serial not usb, usb is fine though.
>pei/pex sheet
>v6 all metal hotend.

So overall if you buy from kingroon website, spend the extra 10 and get the kp3s+pei combo, instead of buying pei separate for an extra 20 dollars (or whatever your currency is)

>>2463020
like this anon mentioned this is another option to consider, I believe prusa mini is same bed size so you can use the prusa mini texture sheet on kp3s, I was thinking of doing this but I ended up not doing that.

If you go fysetc route, I recommend getting prusa parts in ABS instead, so you can actually enclose it and print ABS without worry of the parts deforming since PETG will.

[Anonymous No.2463260]

>>2463203
>Tangled, broke off when left sitting for a while, and hard to get a nice print out of it.

This was my experience with black pla from hatchbox, and alot of reviews people posted pictures of their filament broke into a bunch of pieces.

Odd though eSun was pretty good for me, but I switched to Inland from my local microcenter and I heard at one point (or still do?) source from esun.

I tried polymaker recently and I don't know why but all my PLA are popping from being wet I guess. IDK

[Anonymous No.2463262]

anyone know if I can just buy a set of 4 bed leveling wheels off amazon and slap them on my Anycubic Vyper? for some unknown reason they thought firmware compensation for an uneven bed was good enough to not include manual bed leveling.

[Anonymous No.2463286]

>>2463243
Test printing this in vase mode. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4860154/ It's seems to be doing great. Won't know for sure till I can get up close to the print in a half hour or so.

[Anonymous No.2463308]

>>2463286
So far this is actually decent filament. Not disappointed yet.

[Anonymous No.2463313]

>>2463308
actually looks super nice, I might grab some for light covers.

[Anonymous No.2463318]

Is the ender-2 pro good? Ik the copypasta recommends the 3 v2, but I figured I'd ask just in case
I'm mainly planning on printing minis, and I'm not too picky with something being 1 to 1 perfect

[Anonymous No.2463320]

>>2463318
Follow up, is the filament that comes with the printers any good or is it better to buy separately?

[Anonymous No.2463323]

>>2463308
actually looks super nice, I might grab some for the window on my oven door

[Anonymous No.2463326]

>>2462208
Where do I get good 3d models of naked/mostly naked women for printing? I need to make my computer desk more cultured.

[Anonymous No.2463327]

>>2463320
I'd just use the filament that came with your printer to learn on, and then find a brand with a color selection that you like that isn't too expensive, but not too shitty either. Different colors of the same brand and plastic type tend to be close enough to each other that you won't have to retune all the time like you would with a mish mash of brands, and most printer manufacturers have a shitty price/quality ratio with the exception of Prusa.
I like Keene Village (good value if you buy the spool-less "Koils", not so much if you buy spooled) and Matter Hackers for their "Build" level filaments, but Inland is also good for the ratio I've heard.
A great use of your first kg of filament is to print some reusable spools, but it's understandable if you don't want to fuck around with those to save $10-12 per kilo.

[Anonymous No.2463341]

>>2463323
>>2463313
Here's a transparency test. Would probably work for either.

>>2463318
Never messed with Ender 2's. They're kind of rare seeing how Ender 3's are a few bucks more and objectively better printers. If you want to do minis Maybe look into SLA. FDM can't touch its detail but you will be spending more. Comes down to the detail you want.

>>2463320
Can't answer because what they ship with the printers probably changes from time to time. I'd guess it's low to mid tier stuff. Fine for most things.

>>2463326
https://cults3d.com/

[Anonymous No.2463380]

>>2463327
*most printer manufacturers have a shitty price/quality ratio of their filament.

[Anonymous No.2463395]

will PLA give me cancer if I have a room with bad ventilation

[Anonymous No.2463401]

>>2463341
Possibly a dumb question but does anybody know if there are any filaments that can print and either come out or be polished into being a one way mirror

[Anonymous No.2463456]

>>2463341
PRINT A SKULL
PRINT A SKULL
PRINT A SKULL

[Anonymous No.2463530]

>>2463395
the gases from the PTFE tube is probably more dangerous. run a fan blowing out the window or door to be safer.

[Anonymous No.2463548]

>>2463395
PLA is probably the safest one to use in a room with poor ventilation

[Anonymous No.2463554]

>>2463548
Thought that was PETG

[Anonymous No.2463565]

>>2463323
>on my oven door
>oven
anon I...

[Anonymous No.2463603]

the lengths that some people go to for something that should just work right out of the box with a few hours of tuning are amazing

[Anonymous No.2463619]

>>2463227
You don't have to go premium, I almost always buy cheap shit.
And eSun still managed to be the worst thing I ever used.
Noname filament off eBay managed to be better than eSun.
Sunlu was fantastic.

[Anonymous No.2463623]

Is resin still the go to for printing miniatures/models?

[Anonymous No.2463624]

>>2463623
Yes. FDM is never going to beat it on detail.

[Anonymous No.2463627]

>>2463624
All right, I'll bite the bullet.
Do you guys advice on getting a curing station, or a uv light can do the same?

[Anonymous No.2463629]

I want to 3d print some little nicknack paperweights for my customers. The problem is I want each customer to have their own name on the nicknack they get. Is there a way to do generate many (hundreds?) of slightly different shapefiles without having to manually edit each one? I think this is called mass customization or parameterizarion? Currently i only know tinkercad but would love to learn a tool that can solve my problem.
Also, these knickknacks each take several hours to print on my prusa mk3s+ printer so I’d probably want to hire out the work so it doesn’t take literal months. are there any 3rd party printers who would do this kind of a job? The ones I’ve looked at have really only been built to make 1 model at a time, not hundreds of variants of the same design.

[Anonymous No.2463638]

>>2463627
Curing stations ($$) > uv flashlight ($) > setting prints out in the sun ( ).
It's all a balance of cost vs convenience.

[Anonymous No.2463643]

>>2463629
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/openscad/forums/general/topic:3943
OpenSCAD

[Anonymous No.2463681]

IT LIVES
and yes i fucked up screwing PSU in and fucked up the holes

[Anonymous No.2463690]

>>2463643
Ty! Looks like a good solution.

[Anonymous No.2463726]

>>2462222
nigger all i see are circles and dovetails, failing that import the image into blender as a reference and extrude verticies along the shape and fucking extrude/scale it

[Anonymous No.2463730]

>>2463681
Anon, what brand is the psu? If its not a meanwell you may have to ground the psu to the frame.

[Anonymous No.2463752]

An attempt was made

[Anonymous No.2463754]

>>2462208
Damn my iris didn't make it into the OP

[Anonymous No.2463778]

Is it normal for PLA to have feed issues in a direct drive when printed with an enclosure? I had half a spool of PLA I was trying to use up after finishing my enclosure for printing PETG and it started deforming in the gears and getting squished, this was about half of a spool through the use without issue till then and it happened both times I tried to print after clearing the jam
Do I just need to leave my enclosure doors open when printing PLA?

[Anonymous No.2463784]

is it worth it to go from a 40w to 60-70w heater on an ender 3 if im not planning on printing a million mm/s and print 99% pla and petg? only asking because it can struggle to do petg at 50mm/s for longer lines without thr extruder skipping.

[Anonymous No.2463787]

>>2463778
>Do I just need to leave my enclosure doors open when printing PLA?
Absolutely, and also open or take the top panel off if you can.
Ideally, you should be printing in ABS though.

[Anonymous No.2463791]

>>2463619
love me some sunlu

[Anonymous No.2463792]

>>2463787
I can't do ABS my apartment has dogshit ventilation, I use PETG for things I need to be durable

[Anonymous No.2463801]

>>2463792
You totally can: https://github.com/nevermore3d
I print ABS all the time in my room, with all the windows closed, and I never smell a thing as long as my filter is on.

[Anonymous No.2463803]

I like the colors perinski uses on his 3d projects, and he lists the filament he uses, and the brand is
>topzeal

It seems its not really available in the US, does anyone know other brands that sell bright color pla or abs similar? I saw a brand called
>mika3d

sold some but it was variety of 12 colors on 250g spools. Gizmo dorks seems to sell some but I only found it in 2.85mm.

the bright colors tingle my autism/adhd.

[Anonymous No.2463813]

>>2463803
Check out Fusion Filaments, they have some great colors, but they are out of stock a lot of the time since they are a small boutique manufacturer.

[Anonymous No.2463814]

Sharpies having moderate success, currently waiting on a model with primer through a paint pen to dry to try another

[Anonymous No.2463838]

Do the cura ultimaker advanced settings work on ender 3 v2? I set it so the first layer and the top layers go slower than other layers and I'm not sure if it's going slower

[Anonymous No.2463841]

>>2463838
Try setting it waaay slower, and see if you can tell then.

[Anonymous No.2463845]

>>2463401
No, it's not possible. You can buy reflective window film (basically what a one way mirror is coated with) and apply it to an object printed with transparent filament, but it's pointless unless you're separating that object between a dark space (the "inside room") and a well lit space.

[Anonymous No.2463846]

>>2463803
Is that the Russian guy who games the thingiverse search so you always get some unrelated shit from him in the search results?
I hate that guy.

[Anonymous No.2463849]

>>2463341
>https://cults3d.com/
Is there a site that does not require an account?

[Anonymous No.2463858]

>>2463849
Afraid they're going to tell your mom that you're downloading 3D boobies?

[Anonymous No.2463865]

>>2463846

I guess? I mean when I search spiked dildo none of his stuff shows up.

[/out/ie No.2463905]

>>2463754
Must have missed it, show me (not the guy that made the pic).
>>2463838
They should be printer agnostic.

[Anonymous No.2463943]

>>2463060
depends on the age. 13 or so and they're perky even laying down.

[Anonymous No.2463972]

>>2463943
based cunnyseur

[Anonymous No.2464007]

Is it normal for PETG to make a squeaky noise when being fed down the bowden tube? I only ever use PLA and PLA+ before, and this is the first time my printer is making that kind of sound

[Anonymous No.2464054]

i've bought silicon socks for my ender 3 at like three different stores now
none of them fucking FIT
THEYRE ALL TOO SMALL

[Anonymous No.2464073]

>>2462553
what software is this again

[Anonymous No.2464075]

>>2462553
Your bed is flat, but not level.

[Anonymous No.2464092]

I have no experience in writing gcode but could I edit the program that cura creates? I want to try to make it weave the material 3 dimensional rather than have each layer lay flat

[Anonymous No.2464098]

>>2464073
that's the bed visualizer plugin for octoprint

[Anonymous No.2464119]

How can I orient this coathanger for the cleanest print?

[Anonymous No.2464135]

>>2464119
that looks fine is it failing?

[Anonymous No.2464140]

>>2464119
this looks like a CBT device

[Anonymous No.2464143]

>>2464119
hello federal agent how are you today

[Anonymous No.2464158]

>>2464140
Yes and it opens your butthole

[Anonymous No.2464160]

>>2462208
I'm not doing well. I assembled an Ender 5 Plus but I've had trouble processing information to get it started; I'm worried that if I trial and error the start-up I'll ram the nozzle into the bed or something. Is there a retard-friendly step-by-step guide in written or video format I could follow to print my first calibration cube? I just want to start making things, hopefully it'll help my brain get working again.

[Anonymous No.2464217]

r8

[Anonymous No.2464218]

>>2464217
Useless/10 who the fuck wants printed keycaps

[Anonymous No.2464220]

>>2464218
SLA mold into resin casting is nice, although you don't even have to do the casting part with SLA printers.

[Anonymous No.2464232]

>>2464218
i've done it before

[Anonymous No.2464249]

when's the last time you cleaned your printer? i'll start;
never

[Anonymous No.2464257]

Can we have a separate /ender/ general? I’m sick and tired of enderpoors and their broken printers.

[Anonymous No.2464258]

>>2464249
Your cat likes the heater bed, doesn't it?

[Anonymous No.2464262]

Would a ziplock baggie with a desiccant packet work for storing spools that have been opened but may not get used again for a couple of months minimum?

[Anonymous No.2464265]

>>2464218
Erm, I? It's for a diy project, a typewriter with an e-ink screen. Gonna do a prototype first, then a PCB. Already got a MCU, some diodes for the scanning matrix, a LiPo charge circuit, the screen should arrive on Wed.

[Anonymous No.2464275]

looking for best place to share purchased STL files with the masses. I'm sure someone wanted to things I wanted that I caved and bought.

[Anonymous No.2464276]

>>2464218
hey everyone look at this guy thinking people 3d print their final product instead of using it for rapid prototyping

[Anonymous No.2464298]

>>2464275
What kind of files?

[Anonymous No.2464301]

>>2464275
a real bro if true. on a related note, the guy that made the articulated dragon models must have made quite a lot of profit.

[Anonymous No.2464312]

>>2464301
Any pics? Sounds neat Not neat enough to buy or print but still

[Anonymous No.2464319]

>>2464298
Forbidden files.

[Anonymous No.2464325]

>>2464275
materialize

[Anonymous No.2464343]

>>2464249
goddamn anon..... great printer

[Anonymous No.2464345]

Wizards is this efficient?

[Anonymous No.2464360]

I hate manual bed leveling so hard i think of getting an bltouch

[Anonymous No.2464362]

>>2464360
if you have to level that much then you have other problems anon

[Anonymous No.2464363]

>>2464362
i tightened X axis belt and had to level the bed again, 4 attempt in and i still cant get the print to stick to pei

[Anonymous No.2464364]

>>2464360
Anon, no, if you are not using a glass bed, get an inductive probe instead,

>LJ12A3-4-ZBX

what printer do you have, anon? If you say ender 3, its most likely the gantry on the end with a lead screw.

[Anonymous No.2464367]

>>2464364
Neptune 2S. Still getting hang of it.

[Anonymous No.2464369]

>>2464345
That support looks pretty good, but what is that part? Skull cap? Candy bowl? Cod piece?Only reason I ask is so that you can get the optimal layer line orientation based on where you need strength and what part will be most visible since you will want to show the best parts, and hide the shitty, ugly part. This will also play into hiding the support defects, which might be better if they were on the inside.
Of course, most of these things are moot with vapor smoothed ABS...

[Anonymous No.2464373]

>>2464367

Oh you're the anon that posted pics of your neptune in this thread earlier or last thread. I recommend buying a feeler gauge to help with leveling the bed, if you live in t he US grab one from harbor freight.

the advantages of the inductive probe I mentioned earlier, well
>contactless
>detects metal only, not prematurely triggered by heat
>.005mm accuracy

btw also bit of info, if you happen t oget an inductive probe, you may have to invert the output.

[Anonymous No.2464375]

>>2464373
I'll keep that in mind.
In the meantime, any tips regarding manual bed leveling? The tips told me to continue once i feel slight resistance on the piece of paper but while it works just fine in corners i often end up not havin any on the center.

[Anonymous No.2464377]

>>2464360
+1 for inductive probe since you have an open printer, and glass beds suck dick compared to smooth PEI on spring steel anyways. If you were going to be printing enclosed or using multiple different print surfaces then a touch probe makes sense though.

[Anonymous No.2464378]

>>2464375
leveling it while the nozzle and bed is heated? how much of a gap bwtween the corners and the middle? A huge gap?

[Anonymous No.2464380]

>>2464378
i've only heated the bed for leveling.
As for the gap, i've honestly have no idea - I've stopped incrasing pressure once i started to feel drag on a piece of paper.
The other issue i have is circles being oval.

[Anonymous No.2464381]

>>2464375
Are you leveling at full bed temp and letting it heat soak for a bit? Build plates usually have some warp to them anyways, and that amount of warp changes with temperature.
Just get it as good as you can and call it good, don't worry about the amount of resistance the paper has when you pull it, just that is has about the same between the corners, and then adjust your z offset from there. A good way to tell that the paper has the same resistance is to take note of the point that the paper bends when you push it under the nozzle vs. not bending.

[Anonymous No.2464436]

>>2463905

[Anonymous No.2464439]

>>2464436
the OP is done in a bit of a rush, and selecting a single frame from a video is more work than its worth.

[Anonymous No.2464465]

>>2464312
i think this is the guy:
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-cinderwing3d-design-bundle-of-12-227899

[Anonymous No.2464471]

Do any of you work at a print farm, or any kind of professional grade print lab?
How did you get into that, what was really nice to have as experience to get into 3D printing as an industry?

[Anonymous No.2464474]

It's finally done after a 24h print. Didn't realize the temp was too low until the last layer so it looks a little shitty. Also I'm sure the infill is going to fill with water and create mold. And it's actually too large to fit anywhere in my shower. But I still like the design I went with

[Anonymous No.2464476]

Nice my screen accurate Jango Fett bust finished while I was out of the house!

[Anonymous No.2464480]

>>2464476
3D printing is sort of like the "a watched pot never boils" thing, but the exact opposite.

[Anonymous No.2464482]

>>2464480
accurate lel
But the fault on this one lies entirely with me because I somehow neglected to check that there were supports on the helmet's underside

[Anonymous No.2464486]

>>2464369
its part of a cosplay that's going to get covered up, I mostly just need it to be durable.

I think you're right on the line orientation but this was the best cost efficient way I could find of doing this

[Anonymous No.2464489]

this mfer
https://www.thingiverse.com/openair/designs

[Anonymous No.2464493]

>smoke detector in enclosure went off
>was quiet for 14 hours of printing
>left it idling and heated for an hour after shutting stuff off and checking and seeing nothing obvious
>quiet again
Cannot tell if some freak thing happened or the smoke from the wildfires did it, but would be weird if it were the latter since door was open half the day and it didn't beep once till now

[Anonymous No.2464538]

Just got a super speeder ticket, how can I mcguyver my way out of this using my 3d printing skills

[Anonymous No.2464543]

>>2464538
print a gun

[Anonymous No.2464546]

>>2464486
Ok, then you might get a stronger part if orient it something like this way so that the layer lines go into the corner instead of across it like it is now, otherwise they will be more likely to break off while you are yiffing with your friends or whatever the kids call it these days.
Basically just 90 degrees from where it is now, it will take a bit more support material, but think of the waste if you have to print a whole new cod piece!

[Anonymous No.2464549]

>>2462208
>nigga

[Anonymous No.2464551]

>>2464476
I woke up to this.

[Anonymous No.2464556]

>>2464381
Update. I've been trying to level the bed for 5 fucking hours and its still doesnt stick on the middle

[/out/ie No.2464558]

>>2464436
Noice!
>>2464439
pic

[Anonymous No.2464573]

any of you work with uv resin? i'm wondering if it can withstand being exposed to the sun post-curing. i wanna make small garden shit.

[Anonymous No.2464575]

>>2464439
>selecting a single frame
animate it.

[Anonymous No.2464605]

[Anonymous No.2464609]

>>2464605
jesus christ how horrifying

[Anonymous No.2464629]

>>2464605
ah, cura's new spaghetti mode update

[Anonymous No.2464632]

>>2464573
It can't. Universally, UV sensitive resins (ie ALL 3D printing resins for "resin printers") remains UV sensitive after curing.
The cheap shit will turn brown in a matter of hours, and crumble to shit after a couple of weeks outside in full sun.
Using dark, solid-colored resin will help a little, BLACK non-translucent resin will last way longer outside than any clear resin will.
You can coat/cover to get better UV resistance, a can of clear-coat can make a huge difference.
Generic "Clear Gloss Acrylic Lacquer" is cheap, can sit on your shelf, and will definitely help a shit load with UV resistance.
Multiple coats of a higher-quality clear will do even better, like a SprayMax 2K clear, but it's a lot pricier, and a spraycan is only usable for about 48 hours from the time you activate it.

[Anonymous No.2464643]

>>2463603
>with a few hours of tuning are amazing
why not just buy something that prints perfectly 2 min after you unbox it?

>>2463623
8K bitch. phrozen has better qol features. Here is example of my best possible fdm mini outcome. Feels bad.

[Anonymous No.2464645]

>>2463629
I would design the base and plaque separately. They could be combined in any number of ways, including positioning in the slicer. So one paperweight, snap, glue, place in hundreds of different name plates. If the plates are printed separately you can get a better font orientation for clarity and best orientation for paperweight detail. Interference fit pegs would probably be more than sufficient.

[Anonymous No.2464647]

>>2463752
I'm probably stoopid but these are my miniature settings.

[Anonymous No.2464648]

>>2463814
it's like an old school landline phone

also
>paint pen
jesus anon why not just dip them

[Anonymous No.2464650]

>>2463849
thingiverse

do you really not have throw away emails?

[Anonymous No.2464659]

>>2464643
>why not just buy something that prints perfectly 2 min after you unbox it?
Like what?
A Prusa that takes several hours to assemble and isn't any better than an Ender 3, but because of the price tag you MUST screech about how much better it is at any opportunity? Sounds like a lot of extra work to me.

Did you mean a resin printer? Because what the fuck good are resin prints aside from looking pretty? I can break apart those figurines with my fingers. You'll spend $200/L on resin to even APPROACH the characteristics of 3D850 PLA. Nothing that comes off the resin printer is going straight under the hood or in the field, they're for toys, dentists, and mold-makers.

Kills me that printing with a normal FDM printer is any challenge for people, like faggots have to be told the basics over and over. Calibrate E-Steps, tune temperature and flow for a given filament, level your bed, print within the volumetric flow limit of your hotend. That's 99.9% of the work right there, takes no time, there are 8000 YouTube videos on how to do this, there are websites that walk you through it step by step holding your hand the entire way. There is no challenge to it.

People have been having the same problems and asking the same questions for over a decade now because they're fucking retards who can't use Google and refuse to read anything that wasn't written for them exclusively in direct response to their asking of a question that's been asked a million times before. Same reason people buy an ancient Mendel printer for $800-$1100, because they don't read, they don't learn, they just vomit money in response to regurgitated "just buy a Prusa" crap that people have been pushing since 2015.

I'm sick of faggots who are proud of their ancient overpriced poorly-built printers solely because they don't know anything about them, it is the iPhone of 3D printing.

[Anonymous No.2464661]

>>2464647
To be fair. The model was never made in 3d printing in mind so im surprised it even resembles the target.
Picrel is the second attempt, tried priting on its back but of course the back is fucked by supports.
Anyone knows if its a good idea to split the model in half and then just blue it back?

[Anonymous No.2464664]

>>2464659
I mean for me it was a monoprice. Not a single screw and was printing as soon as it was plugged in. Have been running it for 3+ years now and only had to rebuild the hot end once after a huge blob fuckup.

[Anonymous No.2464670]

>>2464659
>A Prusa that takes several hours to assemble and isn't any better than an Ender 3, but because of the price tag you MUST screech about how much better it is at any opportunity? Sounds like a lot of extra work to me.
you can buy it prebuilt and it comes out of the box with infinitely better features than the ender 3 lmao

[Anonymous No.2464671]

>>2464661

[Anonymous No.2464677]

>>2464670
>Lol you can buy it prebuilt and it's better at only 5x the price
It better be, but it's still a poorly put together piece of shit. Do they still use zip-ties on the bearings or has that FINALLY been revised?

Is it the shit-tier bed leveling probe that you spend the extra cash on? Is it the ancient 8-bit control board? Please, list these features, and let's watch them add up to >$800 in value.

[Anonymous No.2464683]

I like my ender 3

[Anonymous No.2464690]

>>2464670
>infinitely

[Anonymous No.2464693]

>>2464670
List even 1 of these features, go on faggot. Tell us what you spent your money on so we can laugh at you for being inept.

[Anonymous No.2464696]

>>2464677
>>2464690
>>2464693
You can admit you're too pour to go for the overall cheaper option, it's okay

[Anonymous No.2464697]

>>2464696
>too pour
lol I'm meltin'.

[Anonymous No.2464699]

>>2464696
>>2464697
>pour

[Anonymous No.2464711]

>>2464696
If you think the Prusa is "cheaper overall," can you maybe share your logic? Like, the price sheet that you see in your imagination here?

The Prusa is overpriced garbage for retards who don't know anything about 3D printers. It's just an iPhone, you talk about it being "better" but have nothing to compare it to and can't back up your claims.

[Anonymous No.2464722]

Prusa MK3S+, assembled, $1100:
Build Volume of 250x210x210
E3D V6 hotend, 300C, no problems with abrasive filament
8-bit RAMBo board with Trinamic 2130 drivers
Induction bed leveling sensor
Filament detection
Made with numerous printed parts

Ender 3V2 w/ CR-Touch and filament runout detection, $280
220x220x250 build volume
Boring shitty hotend, grab a real E3D V6 for $50 to match the Prusa, or spend more on a significantly better hotend like a Slice Mosquito or E3D Revo.
32-bit mainboard with TMC2208 drivers
Made primarily of Aluminum and Steel, no printed components
Better bed leveling probe, works with all surfaces, proven to be more accurate than the PINDA.

<$350 for an Ender3V2 with a *better* hotend than the Prusa, better mainboard, better drivers, and the rest of the feature list is virtually identical.
"But you have to install that stuff yourself!" If you feel that 2 hours of work on a 3D printer is worth paying $750 for, kill yourself.

[Anonymous No.2464724]

>>2464722
induction bed leveling is so ass, anycubic really fucked up by trying to copy them in their latest machines.

[Anonymous No.2464725]

>>2464722
Ender 3 Pro is only $100 but I'd probably just go for a S1 at this point. P much everything I added to my Ender 3. Around $300 for a S1 when it's on sale.

[Anonymous No.2464726]

>>2464725
I didn't want to compare the Prusa to something so comparable yet so much cheaper, just didn't seem fair.

I mean, I think the S1 is overpriced trash, and it's still 1/3rd the price of the Prusa, while also being considerably better than the Prusa.

[Anonymous No.2464727]

>>2464725
does microcenter really take 100 dollars off a 3d printer that has a 32bit board and tmc2208 drivers inside or does it use an older controller board?

[Anonymous No.2464728]

>>2464727
P sure it's still the old 8-bit board. Still has twice the memory as the Prusa tho.

[Anonymous No.2464731]

>>2464551
thats why you dont wake up

[Anonymous No.2464732]

>>2464727
Not consistent, it's piles of stock from who-knows-where. Many are the oldest spec, some are identical to brand-new units straight from China. So unfortunately, you don't know what's in the box.

For the price though, it's a gamble I'd take. Decent 32-bit boards are cheap shit now.

[Anonymous No.2464734]

>>2464725
I really wish they would open a store in central or south florida. The closest microcenter is 7 hours away.

[Anonymous No.2464735]

>>2464696
good morning sir

[Anonymous No.2464736]

>>2464092
might want to get yourself a 6 axis robotic arm 3d printer like this asian man https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqgT--f9so0

[Anonymous No.2464739]

>>2464732
I originally planned on using ender 3 when MC discounts it in a small print farm for my own use. Do a few mods, but I decided to try another printer, only down side is the bed size being too small, a lot of prints take consideration of ender 3 and up.

[Anonymous No.2464746]

>>2464476
oof, shoulda bought creality.

[Anonymous No.2464750]

Does this actually mean I've got an issue or is it just 1 bad print

[Anonymous No.2464752]

>>2464750
You probably have an issue. Heat things up normally, move the hotend and bed through their range of movement, see that it doesn't jump around wildly in temperature or throw another thermal runaway error. If it does, you've probably got a break in the wires to the thermistor, most often right at the thermistor itself where they're exposed and easily damaged.
If there isn't a broken wire, then it's possible for this to be caused by poor temperature control, a bad PID tune may hold the "correct" temperature normally but be thrown way off when you open a window or turn on the A/C. If the temperature changes too rapidly, for any reason, that may also cause this kind of error.

[Anonymous No.2464756]

>>2464752
Hmm. Il look up what wires and such to check. The only thing I did notice is that it heated up way faster than usual.

[Anonymous No.2464757]

>>2464546
& thank u wizard!

[Anonymous No.2464761]

>>2464746
>should've bought the chinkshit that would keep printing after a failure
lol!

[Anonymous No.2464763]

>>2464750
"Thermal runaway" refers to the failure mode in which a temperature sensor's connection breaks or burns out, causing the printer to think the hot end is frozen, causing it to overcompensate by attempting to be hotter than the surface of the sun. It is now standard for printer firmware to include routines for detecting this failure mode and shutting the printer down to avoid house fires.

You probably need to replace the thermistor on your hot end or the heated bed, or both. Did you touch either of these lately?

[Anonymous No.2464764]

>>2464722
it should be criminal for them to sell printers with "automated leveling" (really just z axis compensation) and not include an actual bed leveling system to you know.. level the bed.
>>2464761
doesn't matter, get a camera monitoring ai system to detect failures and cancel the print. it's printer agnostic.

[Anonymous No.2464767]

What do you guys use to set your Z offset? I've been using paper until the paper can't move and then manually adjusting it by 0.01mm in the octoprint terminal because the touchscreen only does 0.05mm and it's too much.

[Anonymous No.2464769]

>>2464767
Recompile and reupload.

[Anonymous No.2464771]

>>2464763
I didn't do any touching of either of them.
I'm gonna try reprinting and not touching them since if >>2464752 said it could be poor temperature control I think that's what it could be.
t. basement printer

If it fails again il come crying back to your arms since il have to take it apart.

[Anonymous No.2464785]

>>2464771
could be a fault in the gcode, maybe print something else you sliced.

[Anonymous No.2464801]

>>2464160
I got one of those recently and am enjoying it. As long as you assemble it correctly it should work great out of the box. If you are nervous, place the extruder in the middle of the axes before turning it on, and make sure it moves to the ends tops (right and back) and not away (left and front), if it goes wrong just hit the power. The only issue I had during assembly was jamming the bltouch probe into the bed screw fixtures, but the printer has a spare. I print on the bare glass side on the bed, can be bare for PLA or with Magigoo (gluestick) for PETG (Not using it can lead to chunks taken out of the plate, and spare plates are pricy) Good luck!

[Anonymous No.2464847]

I want to coat some prints in something super clear and glossy. Something like clear nail polish would work but I'm obviously looking for something a bit larger that I can apply to larger pieces. Is there an industrial equivalent? Do those water proofing deck coating products dry clear like nail polish?

[Anonymous No.2464856]

>>2464847
Have you looked into the world of clearcoat spray paint? Might be able to find one that is specifically designed to be extra thick, otherwise just do multiple coats spaced out.

[Anonymous No.2464859]

>>2464856
I'm looking into that, but I would much prefer something I can brush on instead of filling up the room with VOC mist

[Anonymous No.2464868]

>>2464605
lookin good watchu printin?

[Anonymous No.2464890]

I want to 3d print coffins using an easily biodegradable and environmentally friendly plastic that can be broken down in typical soil conditions.
What are my options?

[Anonymous No.2464905]

>>2463162
fuck me I replaced the fan and its still happening. Do I have to replace my skr mini v3 now?
AAAAAAAAAA

[Anonymous No.2464907]

>>2464890
I think youd be better off getting into wood making

[Anonymous No.2464909]

>>2464905
Did you order it off amazon? Just buy a new one scratch off the serial number and send it back.

[Anonymous No.2464916]

>>2464905
There a few other things to try. Does the printer reset when you command the fan on either by usb/remote computer or the lcd while not printing?

If so does the printer still reset if commanded on by lcd/usb even when the fan is not connected?

If not, can you control the fan speed via usb/lcd?

[Anonymous No.2464917]

how do I fix a bed leveling issue where the outside of my bed is perfectly square with the gantry but the middle is kind of warped downward so that prints in the middle of the bed are too high and not fused together but everywhere else it's the perfectly smooth?

[Anonymous No.2464918]

>>2464890
Sadly there really aren't good options out there. There are PLA composites with things like Wood and Algae that biodegrade faster than normal PLA, but still won't break down rapidly outside of an industrial composter, we're talking thousands of years.
NonOilen is pretty impressive, breaks down way faster than PLA and doesn't require as intensive of a process. Still, just buried in the ground, it's going to last orders of magnitude longer than a pine box.

The one I'd be most interested in is PVA. It's water soluble so it breaks down VERY rapidly, and it is biodegradable. It doesn't biodegrade easily, and like all "biodegradable" plastics it requires specific conditions in order to successfully break it down. If you also run the graveyard, you might be able to make this work, applying enzyme treatments and specific fertilizers to break down the PVA coffins. With the right geography (and a deep water table safe from your bullshit) I could see that being doable. Maybe it'd be easier than I expect, and any ol' graveyard could handle them with ease, just dump a baggie of coffin-eater on top of the fresh grave and it brakes down entirely after the first good rain, maybe it'd be that easy.

Alternatively, go all the way with it, develop PVA filament that has all the necessary shit in it to make it degrade rapidly. Might be doable. Print whatever, and as it absorbs moisture from the air or gets wet directly it just melts away along with tons of encapsulated enzymes or whatever it takes to break it down completely.

[Anonymous No.2464922]

>>2464917
A new bed or in software with UBL/Mesh bed leveling.

[Anonymous No.2464925]

How frequently should I expect to replace a textured PEI sheet?
Not a powdered sheet either, actual textured sheet, and not that name-brand Prusa one
I've had one for a few months with pretty regular printing being done but I'm noticing adhesion is starting to drop even when wiping down with IPA between prints, not enough to ruin prints yet but probably getting there in the near future

[Anonymous No.2464926]

greetings resinsirs
The more I thought and researched, the more in a bind of choice I find myself in.
While I'm willing to spend decent bucks, I've started thinking more about what I want to do with the resin printer, and how hard of an upfront cost I'm actually willing to take.
Also I have spacial visualization issues
I intend to mainly print figurines, but I would also print just about everything else that I find interesting that I can print with it, and it made me think a bit.
I initially intended to shoot straight for the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K, which would strain my account for that months neetbux (not even including resin or all the other stuff), before finding out about the Saturn 2 8K (which would take longer to arrive from the store I'm buying from), and then just now I was thinking...
>Do I really need all that space?
or
>Do I really need all that resolution?
So I want to ask, especially of those who own different kinds of resin printers, should I be aiming for more space and less resolution or vice versa?
I don't mind sanding my prints to smooth it further, however I also intend to be making some smaller parts with the printer as well (say, mechanical attachments for figurines, or keycaps for a C128D keyboard), so the extra detail might also be desirable.
I've noticed the Anycubic Mono X 6K, which seems to strike a balance of size and resolution, while being cheaper than both the Phrozen and Saturn 2...
>tl;dr: Resolution, size, or both for the sacrifice of having to crack 10k off my 60k crown savings to eat and for materials? Can sand, will use printer for whatever it can print, but mostly figurines
If I really get into resin printing and I've sacrificed either rez or size, then I might buy the opposite later on, but I'm stuck when it comes to choosing either if I'm not going to sacrifice my savings. I get 11k neetbux a month (after the 7k rent), so I need some help to think.
...
Anycubic Photon Ultra DLP? Seems relevant with the energy issues kek

[Anonymous No.2464928]

>>2464926
Norwegian btw, consider extra taxes and shipping if you've got a printer you want to suggest instead of having me choose between a small high-rez printer or a large lower-rez printer

[Anonymous No.2464932]

freecad bros, I need some help
I'm trying to chamfer the highlighted edge but because the object is made of 3 separate lofts it won't let me make a chamfer longer than the circled corner. Is there a way to fuse the three lofts or faces so that I can do my chamfer?
I tried googling this but all I could find was gigabrains talking about some super esoteric shit on the forums.

[Anonymous No.2464933]

>>2464932
Use fusion 360

[Anonymous No.2464936]

>>2464926
Size Wins
Resolution is cool, but even an old shit Elegoo Mars produces fucking stunning prints, just amazing stuff.
Hell yes more resolution makes a difference, and some of the newest printers produce some amazing quality, but to the layman they're no more impressive than what you get off a bottom-dollar resin printer.

Unless you're upgrading from an existing resin printer, don't stress the resolution, any printer is going to blow your tits off once you start getting good shit out of it. Even "low-end" resin printers are extremely impressive.

Size though, size is irreplaceable. You will find shit you can't fit on your printer, and that'll be that. You won't find models that are "too detailed" for your "low-res" printer, but you will find ones that are too big, and you can't do shit about it. Size definitely wins.

My biggest regret with the Mars was not getting a Saturn, and my biggest gripe with my Saturn is that it's not a Jupiter.
I'm not a brand whore, Anycubic is fine, Elegoo is fine, Phrozen, is fine, they're all using off the shelf Chitu parts anyway so the differences are usually minor as fuck. If I were you, and found myself on the fence between bigger or higher res, I'd go bigger, the bigger the better.

[Anonymous No.2464939]

>>2464926
Don't look at 2k/4k/8k bs. By itself that's not a meaningful number. You have to account for the x/y build area. Look for the "XY Resolution" spec to see that actual resolution of these printers.

Figure out the specs you want, your budget and if the two don't meet wait a few months until your budget grows to meet your specs or something goes on sale. Perhaps watch the second hand market. No point buying something that doesn't tick all the boxes you set.

[Anonymous No.2464971]

>>2464932
Are those CZ grips? Are you specifically trying to smooth out the top edge so you can put your thumb there? Because if so I have an STL for you to try.

[Anonymous No.2465004]

>>2464932
friendly reminder that weapon is a banned topic

[Anonymous No.2465009]

[Anonymous No.2465010]

>>2465004
my question is completely unrelated to instructions for making a weapon. If I went to the effort of making some dummy object with 3 different lofts I would receive the same answer.

[Anonymous No.2465024]

is there any reason that I should go for a VAT printer? like what are the major downsides

[Anonymous No.2465028]

>>2464859
>He actually has walls...

[Anonymous No.2465029]

>>2464890
Print a mold, and then mold the coffin with recycled cardboard box paper mache for a very classy final send-off.
I'll take 10% of your net profit, thanks!

[Anonymous No.2465031]

>>2464925
Have you tried scuffing it with steel wool? If that doesn't work, try some acetone, but only as a last resort really.

[Anonymous No.2465034]

>>2465004
Grips ain't weapons, and I'm not being friendly.

[Anonymous No.2465035]

>>2465004
friendly reminder that rule, like the no sex toy rule, doesn't get enforced.

[Anonymous No.2465042]

>>2464746
No thanks! I've gone through a total of three Creality printers between me and my buddy that all had at least one thing arrive broken or assembled in a way that would not function and their slant-eye support team gave both of us the run around for WEEKS despite them being fucking fresh out of the box, unassembled and under warranty and when they finally buckled on the first one when we contacted it took four fucking months for the replacement pieces to arrive
I will happily pay 4x the price for a product that will actually show up and be ready to assemble and fucking function out of the box
And the error was entirely user-based in that screenshot anyways, I was just chuckling at the coincidental spot the failure finally stopped the print
Now I just need to reprint it with the thinner armor plates more connected rather than relying on painted supports and it'll be golden for testing shit on

[Anonymous No.2465070]

>>2462208
Is there a way to configure Marlin firmware so the steps/mm of the Z axis becomes non-linear (more when it's close to the bed, less when it's far from it)?
I'm getting really tired from elephant foot problems.

[Anonymous No.2465073]

>>2462500
Never used pen, have idea to buy one for "welding" parts and some minor repairs.

[Anonymous No.2465075]

>>2464436
UNSCHEDULED OFF WORLD ACTIVATION

[Anonymous No.2465078]

>>2465073
it looks a lot more convenient than using my soldering iron to stitch together seams.

[Anonymous No.2465081]

How dangerous is it to have one of the 24v heater terminals permanently giving full power? I, uh, wired up some 12v case lights in series instead of parallel (or vice versa), and melted the pcb connectors off one of the lights sending full dick power to the other light, and now that terminal on the MCU is fucked off. Luckily, there was another heater terminal to use, that I'm sure was put there for this very reason.

[Anonymous No.2465082]

>>2465081
Very likely fine, LEDs aren't going to draw anywhere near the amperage of a heater.

[Anonymous No.2465096]

>>2465081
Means you burnt that mosfet. Can be repaired by an eet pretty easily if you know one. Probably won't cause issues since it's already blown and the board is still working but it is in an unknown state, has pins on vcc and ground, and is inherently unpredictable.

[/out/ie No.2465110]

Anet A8 (shitty, kept for parts)
CR10 (larger than usual, nice, sold)
Ender 2 (smaller than usual, nice, sold)
Ender 3 (nice)
Prusa Mini Clone Kit (small, silent, packed with features and good engineering, very nice)
Ordered a second Kit to assemble and gift to my father. The kit costs 220€, the printed parts 40€. I don't think that an Ender 3, except for size, can compete.
I think the Ender 3 will have to go.

>>2464890
Water soluble support material maybe? AFAIK that stuff is made from starch.
>>2465070
Wouldn't that be something you can set in the slicer?

[Anonymous No.2465112]

Can I plug my ender 3 to a UPS? The wiring in my apartment is kinda fucked and the circuit breaker trips when a lot of my stuff is running at the same time.

[Anonymous No.2465113]

>>2465082
>>2465096
"Do nothing" is my favorite answer to most of life's problems, so thanks for the second and third opinions.

[Anonymous No.2465127]

>>2465112
Yes. Your UPS needs to be capable of putting out 360 watts or 3 amp at 120 volts. Also if it's a modified sine wave inverter (ie, cheap) expect the Ender's PSU to be more noisy.

[Anonymous No.2465132]

>>2465127
Cool beans. Thanks bro

[Anonymous No.2465135]

>>2465112
yeah, you can but make sure your UPS has high wattage if you're plugging it with anything else. mine trips whenever the nozzle heats up when i had the PC plugged with it, but alone it's fine.

[Anonymous No.2465136]

Looks like Raspberry Pi prices are starting to go down a bit now that BigTreeTech called them on their bullshit by releasing a clone. Not sure I would buy one, at least before the kinks get worked out, but it's cool that cut throat intellectual property theft saves the day once again.

[Anonymous No.2465138]

how the do I change the movement defaults in slicers to something like blender? having to move with right click fucks with me alot.

[Anonymous No.2465151]

>>2465135
Yeah, I'll buy one just for the printer. Thanks

[Anonymous No.2465165]

>>2465136
?
You've got me curious there, what's this about?

[Anonymous No.2465187]

>>2465136
prices going down means absolutely nothing if they're out of stock at every supplier 24/7

[Anonymous No.2465188]

saars, the system does not enjoy the idea of me using flammable liquids to clean my resin prints
what are our non-flammable alternative sirs

[Anonymous No.2465204]

>>2465136
I've never used octoprint so maybe I'm missing something, but can you not use a different SBC like a banana pi, pine64, nanopi, odroid, etc etc? There's a million of these things

[Anonymous No.2465222]

>>2465204
Octo can run on anything pretty much. Even a regular PC

[Anonymous No.2465245]

>>2465222
Then why wait two months to overpay for an rpi when you could grab a 20yo netbook from a computer junk store or ebay? Again it feels like I'm missing something here

[Anonymous No.2465252]

>>2464926

Mars 2 bro here. The other guy is right, get a Saturn or above. The Mars prints amazingly if you're just doing miniatures, but the build plate is just too small for other stuff, especially if you're printing costume/articulates/practical pieces. I hate dropping an STL into the slicer only to find out there's no damn way to print it besides ant scale.

Maybe it's because I've been huffing a lot of resin this week but I'm probably gonna drop for a Saturn 2 so I can print a halloween costume.

[Anonymous No.2465257]

>>2465245
It's the easiest setup.
You just flash the SD card and everything is configured and set.
Manual installation on regular linux/windows is a little more involved.

I'd surly hope idiots are paying 300%+ markup just to run octoprint on a pi, of course some peeps are really one track minded.

[Anonymous No.2465261]

>>2465257
>just flash the SD card and everything is configured and set
aha, so that's it, the macfag mindset
I wonder, if I bought up all the stock of the cheapest sbc I could find and then made a similar one-shot image for it, what kind of markup could I put on those machines

[Anonymous No.2465262]

>>2464847
why not acrylic gloss clear coat?

[Anonymous No.2465263]

>>2464926
I'm seriously considering the Phrozen Mighty 8k, 10" but it's double the price of an Elegoo Saturn 2 also 8k and 10" and I'm having trouble justifying the first $550 much less twice that. Kinda wish I was a GW fag then one set of eradicators would be almost 20% of the purchase price.

[Anonymous No.2465264]

>>2465024
what does a $3000 VAT give you that at $1000 resin printer wouldn't?

[Anonymous No.2465267]

>>2465112
find an outlet(s) not on the same breaker. even in an apartment it can't be that hard.

[Anonymous No.2465268]

>>2465138
fuck man blender, fusion 360 and cura are all radically different. then sometimes mesh mixer and 3d viewer. madness. no I don't know any way to fix, fixing two would leave 3 so why bother.

[Anonymous No.2465274]

So a few weeks into trying to upgrade to a v6 custom build (the custom part is from some dude who has the 3d models). Its with the dual gear extruder (mediocre clone). It finally worked bro's. I had problem getting a stable heat on heatblock, but it turns out that sometimes you shouldnt buy too much cloned stuff. I dished out 15 euro for a non clone heat block and it performs just perfectly. Heats up nicely, remains warm nice enough, PID has no trouble with it. It didnt explode yet (inaccurate threads were present in the clone, which made it explode). So far just a little bit tweaking with the retraction so that starting holes are properly printed. But it works. It broke past the previous speed limit. Very nice. And together with firmware that I finally managed not to fuck up means 320 max temp. I can print a little bit into those exotic nylon types like that.

Only took me 2 weeks to realize that instability in heating can be caused by an inferior heating block lol

[Anonymous No.2465297]

NEW THREAD
>>2465296
>>2465296
>>2465296