/WELD/

[Anonymous No.2380551]

Welding general

https://weldguru.com/
https://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-dvd.html

[Anonymous No.2380553]

fixed the second link, https://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

[Anonymous No.2380556]

what's the best way to get an argon cylinder?
Also as a hobbyist what size should I get, 80 cu/ft?

[Anonymous No.2380559]

>>2380551
that young man needs some googles!

please do not post unsafe pics of negroes especially.

[Anonymous No.2380561]

>>2380559

[Anonymous No.2380602]

>>2380559
are poos ok?

[Anonymous No.2380613]

>>2380556
I just went to a welding store and bought one. I don't remember the sizes, but there were three. The small ones are basically useless as a hobbyist, and the large one needed to be leased. The middle size one was great because it's way easier to carry around than the big one but it still has enough argon to where it doesn't need to be filled up too often. I think I could get two of the medium sized ones and they'd last a pretty long time.
But if you have a shop/garage putting the large ones in a cart would get rid of the weight issue, and you honestly probably wouldn't move it anyways (where I work there are a lot of floors and no room for carts, so when I need to move the large bottles we have I don't move them if I'm alone).

[Anonymous No.2380769]

>>2380559
>>2380561
>>2380602
I start to think that thirdworlder eye is just superior to firstworld counterpart. Maybe sun in those places is so hard that they are used to it?

[Anonymous No.2380773]

>>2380602
>>2380769
The man in that picture is actually blind and is welding purely by ear. Truly remarkable

[Anonymous No.2380789]

>>2380551
I am a maitence guy at a hotel. Talk me through welding missing bars on Iron railings. What am I going to need? I have never welded before but it needs to be fixed.

[Anonymous No.2380790]

>>2380789
It's standard one inch or so square railings from the 80s probably. It needs needs be pretty strong, it is on the 2nd floor.

[Anonymous No.2380830]

>>2380790
7018 and a can of flat black friendo.

[Anonymous No.2380904]

Does anyone know how this chinese thing works? It got 3 knobs, and ive been turning them at all different settings but nothing seems to work. What am I doing wrong here? I was only once able to use it but I forgot the combination in which it allowed it to work. I feel like cracking a safe or maybe the rod or device became defect. I thought 3 nobs should give more options but instead it made everything harder for me as a noob. It got dust all over it since I tried using it twice and last time failed so it does nothing rn.

[Anonymous No.2380908]

>>2380904
Close up on the options. I tried welding the stick on the metal bar in the red vice above but it shows no reaction. I gave up eventually, but I remember that it worked a while back, just not how. I cant read chinese and instructions were added to this model in how to weld under what conditions and what rods.

[Anonymous No.2380911]

>>2380904
Go buy a shitty English welder for like 100 bucks

[Anonymous No.2380912]

>>2380908
Weren't* or

[Anonymous No.2380914]

>>2380911
I took the housing off and evertthing looked legit in hardware to me, nothing was burned or damaged. I dont think it might be crap its just idk what to do with it. Next time i will buy one with just 1 or 2 knobs, but I think its a waste of money buying a new one just because I might doing something not right.

[Anonymous No.2380923]

>>2380904
>Does anyone know how this chinese thing works?
Normally.

0-330 is current (pro-tip: it is not 330A welder, 160-200A maybe)
One of the knobs is dig
Other is hot start.
Both should be set to zero as they are not needed.
According to google translate, left one is "Ignition current" so I guess hot start.
Right one is "Thrust current" so probably dig.
> I tried welding the stick on the metal bar in the red vice above but it shows no reaction.
What do you mean? No sparks at all?
>I cant read chinese and instructions were added to this model in how to weld under what conditions and what rods.
Chinese don't have american standards anyway, they have their own, and they mainly use rutile rods (aka 6013) and basic rods (7016, 7018, etc).
Cellulose rods and basic rods require high OCV, and not all chink machines can do it

[Anonymous No.2380935]

>>2380923
Thanks anon.
yeah it wasn't showing sparks but thats when I had these other knobs on pretty high settings since I expected it to work on higher settings, so that might have caused it.
I will test it. I have 2 types of rods, one is j422 carbon steel 3.2mm rods and the other is stainless steel electrode 3.2mm.

[Anonymous No.2380940]

>>2380935
>yeah it wasn't showing sparks
Thing is, dig and hot start don't really affect your welding. Well, hot start will burn holes in thin metals, and dig will make cellulose and basic rods run better (because it basically changes volt-amp curve from a sharp one to less sharp).
But even if current is set to miniumum, it still should spark and try start an arc. So I suspect machine is fucked.
Do you have any check-lights on, or like that LED current meter thingy?
> one is j422 carbon steel 3.2mm rods
Yep, that is chink name for E6013.

[Anonymous No.2381069]

Why's AC such an expensive feature?
I just bought an ac/dc tig machine for $700

[Anonymous No.2381108]

>>2381069
> Why's AC such an expensive feature?
First of all, most welders nowadays are inverters.
They work like this:
220V AC -> Rectifier (300 VDC aprox) -> Transistors (300 VDC 25-50 kHz AC) -> Transformer (low voltage 25-50 kHz AC) -> Rectifier (low voltage DC) -> ur stick

If you want to add AC, you need to add another "transistors" to get AC out of DC. So you will get something like this:
220V AC -> Rectifier (300 VDC aprox) -> Transistors (300 VDC 25-50 kHz AC) -> Transformer (low voltage 25-50 kHz AC) -> Rectifier (low voltage DC) -> Transistors (AC or DC at any frequency you wish)-> ur stick

So you basically get 2 inverters in one. Furthermore, switching 20A 300VDC is easier than switching 20V 300A, so it adds up even more to cost.

In old days, they used just a mains frequency (50/60 Hz) transformer, and you got shit like this:
220V AC-> transformer -> either stick (AC) or rectifier and then stick (DC)
You might ask, why the fuck over complicate stuff? But there are good reasons for it.
- it is more efficient (transformers used in welders often have shit (50-60%) efficiency due to their design, meanwhile inverter is 70-90% efficient)
- uses less copper or aluminium and steel (so is cheaper to make)
- small lil box that fits in your pocket instead of 30 kg beast.

Why not weld with 25-50 kHz? I tried it (like connected directly to transformer of welder). It didn't work that great, because metal instead of going to weld pool, was fucking levitating.

[Anonymous No.2381110]

I have a query that no amount of googling, forum trawling or YouTube comment reading seems to be able to answer. I turn now to you chads, masters of the arc & dodgers of the spatter.

Small scale welding. I want to TIG very small things, and very thin things. I'm talking parts less than a millimetre (40 thou) thick.
>but why?
I'm a former mechanic so I've done plenty of light MIGing and a little bit of stick work, the usual stuff you'd expect, patching holes etc..
I'm wanting a TIG for hobbying, since I had to stop fixing real engines (health reasons) I've taken up model engineering as a hobby. It'd be nice to be able to weld tiny exhausts (less than 1/4" OD pipe) and other mini-fab stuff. Backstory ends.

Can a common or garden TIG setup be turned down enough to weld tiny things without blowing them to bits?
We're talking steel btw, as much as I'd love an AC setup I doubt I'll ever afford one. Same applies to laser welders, they're pure fantasy.

So considering I'd very rarely be doing normal-sized welds... And if I did, my MIG would get dusted off... Is low power TIG possible, should i be looking more at little pulse arc rigs, or am i better off with a 0 nozzle torch on an oxy-propane system?

[Anonymous No.2381296]

>>2381069
>he doesn't have a giant old ac stick welder
literally why not

[Anonymous No.2381340]

>>2381296
Because my dad sold his

[Anonymous No.2381648]

How would you weld 1 mm pipe 5/8 OD with stick? Is it even possible to weld this shit in one go?
Hard mode: thinnest electrode you can get is 3/32, and only 6010, 7018 or 6013.

[Anonymous No.2381720]

>>2381296
gigantic old DC welders are better.

A AC motor spins a DC generator. welds really great because of the energy stored in the rotating mass. because you have two motors with flywheels the voltage drop is almost nonexistent and they ignite a rod really well.

it called a welding bumblebee in Germany because the sound it makes.

[Anonymous No.2381811]

I need to transport an ancient acetylene and oxygen tank, no idea the condition
My only vehicle is a Honda fit
1. How do I make sure the tanks are empty
2. How do I transport them safely in such a small vehicle?
3. Considering the set up is so old, what should I replace?
I'm thinking of fastening the acetylene tank to the back of my front passenger seat
My goal is to get it inspected someplace and then buy new accessories (hose/regulator/etc) so I can start using it

[Anonymous No.2381830]

>>2381811
Picture related is how I transport mine.
Never put them in passenger seat or some shit, always keep them in the trunk or in a towed trailer.
Don't drive like a retard. Avoid people crashing into your car. Avoid severe shocks. Check if the security caps are on top of the valves. If you kept the valves lying let them stand for some hours before taking acetylene out of them.

The old bottles should be fine - it's just a welded tank. Apart from rusting nothing could happen to them.

[Anonymous No.2381831]

>>2381830
*If you kept the gas tanks lying

[Anonymous No.2381907]

Which rod is better?
Both are 6013.
Top one is M&H AC-3 (Chilean), bottom one is Wurth (Chink).
Seems like AC-3 has more iron powder in it, what does it mean?

[Anonymous No.2381921]

>>2381907
Ok. AC-3 has more spatter, but less slag (more like 7018, slag doesn't cover the puddle much). Wurth has less spatter but more slag.
Conclusion: I can't weld for shit no matter the rod :D

[Anonymous No.2382124]

>>2381110
>Is low power TIG possible
Yes
>Can a common or garden TIG setup be turned down enough to weld tiny things without blowing them to bits?
Not all of them, and not all of them do a very good job of it. Stuff that small is going to be really fiddly and fussy on the setup and settings. Might want to look at the micro sized torches and tungstens that are available but they're specialist and command premium prices.

Pulse TIG is advantageous for super thin stuff.

[Anonymous No.2382201]

>>2380923
Thank you so much dude! it worked!

[Anonymous No.2382227]

>>2382124
Thanks man.
Also reaffirmed my thinking that a quality secondhand unit trumps a new cheapo one.

[Anonymous No.2382330]

Can someone source me this image?

[Anonymous No.2382369]

>>2382330
It's from Germany.

I HALPED

[Anonymous No.2382468]

>>2382330
My sides. I posted this book in another thread. It's from a book I bought for learning oxy-acetylene welding. It's a reprint from 1930-something but has all the old tricks in it that nobody knows anymore like welding copper, Aluminium or plumbum.

[Anonymous No.2382609]

>>2380556
I know what I can exchange so I've been accumulating used cylinders and swapping them out for many years. Now I live in industrial gas luxury. Biggest hobbyist size is most convenient.

Never lease as a private user because it's a waste of money.
I chain most of my cylinders to my wall or table then run long gas hoses to my power source or lift arc TIG rig. Hose and fittings are cheap. If you want QDs you can buy quality pneumatic QDs like Milton (not HF trash because leaks get expensive) with 1/4" NPT threads.

https://weldingweb.com/vbb/forum.php covers any equipment question you'll encounter and are super helpful to noobs.

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/ is the only Eurofag forum I've found (their regulators and some other stuff differ from the magnificence of Burgerland) but they're quite decent and may be useful to those who live outside civilization.

[Anonymous No.2382610]

>>2380904
Many of those are made for multiple resellers. Someone here may recognize it:

https://weldingweb.com/vbb/forums/48-Other-Manufacturers

[Anonymous No.2382612]

>>2381720
Lovely arcs from before large diodes were available. The burger equivalent is the classic Lincoln Lincwelder:

https://www.purplewave.com/auction/180109/item/EE9968/Lincoln-Lincwelder_DC_250MK-Torches,_Welders_and_Plasma_Cutters-Welder_(Manual)-Kansas

The above style head is common on classic Lincoln SA series machines, many of which from the 1930s and 40s make money every day welding pipe.

[Anonymous No.2382615]

>>2382468
The classic 1930s welding book is the Oxwelder's Handbook (get nothing later than 1939) which are cheap and plentiful online.

That bench is simple as it gets and a good place to start but I'd add a vise for workholding.

[Anonymous No.2382690]

>>2382615
Thank you I'm reading it right now
I wish I weren't so poor, I can't really do anything with my ancient tanks because I just bought a new tig welder and I can't afford to replace the guages, hose, and get new fuel

[Anonymous No.2382846]

Americans weld with cellulose (6010, etc), basic (7018, etc) welding rods. Rarely with rutile rods (6013), but it is available everywhere.
Europeans weld with rutile rods (6013, etc). They like rutile rods so much they divide them into rutile, rutile-cellulosic etc. Also they weld with basic rods (7016, 7018, etc.). Cellulose rods seem to be rare and expensive.
Asians seem to use rutile (6013, etc), cellulose (6011 etc) and basic rods (7018 etc)...

What do Japanese use? I was recently checking kobelco catalog, and they have 7048 rod, which is low hydrogen can can run downhill? wtf is this black magic? LB-52T

[Anonymous No.2383010]

I have to weld two cromoly tube together at a specific angle.
Is there any tool i can use to keep the tubes aligned while i do the weld?

[Anonymous No.2383089]

>>2383010
two vises?

[Anonymous No.2383239]

>>2383089
I don't have a working plan

[Anonymous No.2383415]

Does a product exist that is just a cheap straight edge torch guide that can be adjusted for bevel?

[Anonymous No.2383427]

>>2383010
There are many interesting clamps. Ask on a welding forum since higher end fabricators tend to have the slickest equipment. Exhaust and motorcycle frame fabs especially.

[Anonymous No.2383430]

>>2383010
hold it in position then tack weld it

[Anonymous No.2383582]

>>2381108
interdasting. i've welded using both inverters and giant inductor boxes. But it's always been stick. Stick welds just go. never really needed to think about it like your post goes into.

[Anonymous No.2383823]

>>2383582
Some people think transformers weld better than inverter, because their volt-amp curve is smooth.
Inverters can simulate that with DIG function. (Dig basically increases current on shorter arc).

[Anonymous No.2383851]

>>2381110
I have a fairly standard chinkshit AC/DC TIG and it goes down to 5A. I've welded 0.8mm bandsaw blades with it. My impression is that the main reason you might not be able to weld 0.2mm is because of user limitations rather than machine, in that you can't really keep up with the way the material reacts to the heat and maybe tiny movements in the material you're welding. But 1mm and probably even 0.5mm should be viable so long as the parts have at least a bit of thermal mass and/or can be fixed really well.

[Anonymous No.2383860]

>>2383851
If you don't mind me asking, how much was your chinkese ac/dc setup? Also a link or just the make & model so I can add it to my "ponder" list would be awesome.
Do you use any special technique when welding super thin stuff?
Thanks for the input, good stuff.

[Anonymous No.2383922]

How can i tell if steel contains zinc?
If there's no way to avoid zinc, how should I safely weld it?

[Anonymous No.2383953]

>>2383922
zinc = galvanization
grind it off and wear a respirator

[Anonymous No.2383960]

>>2383953
Is there an easy way to distinguish galvanized steel from normal mild steel?

[Anonymous No.2383965]

>>2383960
just look at it

[Anonymous No.2383979]

>>2383922
>How can i tell if steel contains zinc?
If it looks way to shiny, if you have clusters of metal.
If you weld it, you hear funny noises and you get white flakes. If you inhale the smoke and you taste sweet in your mouth - you get zinc fever, gg.
If galvanizing is good - it is pain in the ass.

>>2383960
C'mon, if you're that blind you can't be welding.

[Anonymous No.2383989]

>>2383823
> Some people think transformers weld better than inverter, because their volt-amp curve is smooth.

I don’t have a single fact to back it up but I think my inverter welder is better and a hell of a lot more portable. It’s amazing what that little shit can do on a 120v let alone 220v.

[Anonymous No.2383991]

>>2383979
Relax, I'm new to this and don't want poison myself on scrap metal
It's not like I can telepathically learn the difference without asking

[Anonymous No.2383994]

>>2383991
I knew the difference between zinc plated, nickel plated, chrome plated and tin plated stuff before I got a welder.
> don't want poison myself on scrap metal
Weld outside, have fat blowing smoke away.

[Anonymous No.2383995]

>>2383989
I don't know either, I just know the electrical difference, but I only welder with inverters, because small little box is better than giant ass box

[Anonymous No.2384040]

>>2383960
Jesus christ.
What >>2383994 said. Only... Being dead serious here... If you can't identify galvanized steel just by looking at it, you're REALLY not ready to pick up a welder. You have a LOT of learning to do. It's almost unbelievable to me that you can't tell, it's like asking how to tell if a piece of wood has been painted. Seriously for the sake of your own health and the neighbors whose lives will be put at risk by the fire you start, read a book, do some googling, go to college, do a night course, ANYTHING to give you a fucking quarter of a clue before you pick up the tool that vaporizes metal instantly.
I've genuinely seen it all now.

[Anonymous No.2384043]

>>2384040
nigger I'm just being cautious
You'd rather I not ask and just go ahead? Get the stick out of your ass

[Anonymous No.2384044]

I'm aware it's a stupid question, but it's better to ask a stupid question than be ignorant
It took all of 3 seconds for somebody to answer the question and now I know
It's just as stupid to harang the guy trying to learn

[Anonymous No.2384080]

>>2384044
Safety is paramount. Warning you that you're in over your head, you could hurt/kill yourself (and possibly others if you start a fire), is not "haranging" you, it's to help you. You can't learn anything if you're dead.
You want to learn, great. Did you learn to drive by just hopping in a car and giving it a go on the street? Did you learn to swim by jumping off a pier into the ocean? If you want to learn, do it properly. By the time you pick up a torch you should know what you're doing. If you can't even tell what galvanized metal looks like, you do not know what you're doing. Learn first, practice second.

[Anonymous No.2384111]

>>2384080
All you know is that I didn't know galvanized steel, anything else you're assuming is a conclusion you've jumped to
Is it stupid, yeah, does that mean I know nothing, am not being safe, have no idea what I'm doing, and have put 0 research in?
no
First off I've welded before, I just had access to non-galvanized steel cut off of a sheet and never had to sort through scraps
The only reason I'm asking is because I never had to know this in the past
You are making a much bigger deal out of this than it is
Also many people learn to swim by being thrown in and I learned to drive by giving it a go down a street, as an aside

[Anonymous No.2384118]

And for the record I do appreciate that you care about my safety

[Anonymous No.2384191]

>>2384080
>Did you learn to drive by just hopping in a car and giving it a go on the street?
Yes. By stealing drunk dad's key and going with all thots in his car.
Good ol days when polis didnt care.

[Anonymous No.2384421]

>>2380908
ignition current, welding current, thrust current
According to google translator

[Anonymous No.2384516]

How much money do prevents have? It's there money in this sort of thing?

[Anonymous No.2384528]

>>2384516
>he builds his puppy slave cage to be easily collapsible

[Anonymous No.2385589]

>>2384516
From the slaves pov what exactly is happening
Do you cum when your in a cage or something, or do you just sit there boored as shit

[Anonymous No.2385710]

>>2382468
I love working with aluminum, probably my favorite metal to work with especially if I'm doing GTAW. I haven't had a chance to work on copper yet but I want to

[Anonymous No.2385744]

>>2385589
>what exactly is happening
If you have to ask, it's probably not for you.

[Anonymous No.2385750]

>>2385744
aww damn

[Anonymous No.2385786]

>>2384043
If you get zinc poisoning, you’ll get a stomach ache. It’s not anything permanent. I’ve found drinking milk makes it go away. Look online for the MSDS on zinc and refer to that.

My best recommendation to test if it’s galvanized, weld it. If you get white feathers and white residue around your weld then it’s probably galvanized or leave it out in the rain for a week, if it don’t rust it’s galvanized

[Anonymous No.2386297]

>>2384516
A lot of them have a shitload of money because they also charge for dom sessions or just rent out their dungeon. If you can actually find people willing to buy your stuff and make a name for yourself in their space, you can easily have that as a business similar to how some artists end up making tons of money just drawing furry porn commissions.

[Anonymous No.2386311]

>>2380769
You can get away with rod welding. The flux shields a lot of the UV. Especially with these big iron powders that third worlders seem to love.

[Anonymous No.2386337]

>>2385786
heavy metal poisoning kills welders every single year, and when it doesnt kill you it causes brain damage

[Anonymous No.2386338]

>>2386337
zink isn't a heavy metal

[Anonymous No.2386362]

>>2386338
You can call it whatever you want, your body absorbs it into the bloodstream and cannot effectively process it out, causing serious organ damage

[Anonymous No.2386363]

>>2386338
Galvanizing can contain lead :D

[Anonymous No.2386368]

>>2386363
>>2386362
If you're worried about heavy metal poisoning, it isn't galvanized steel that's the worrying its any kind of steel and every welding process. They all produce toxic fumes and its just a question of dosage if you're not welding with proper fume extraction or respiration.

[Anonymous No.2386370]

>>2386368
Your body does a very good job of quickly processing metals like iron and magnesium
There is a reason you can take them as supplements
Bullshit "its all toxic" is completely missing the point.

Dosage matters yes, it takes very little zinc to fuck you up hard

[Anonymous No.2386374]

>>2386370
Zinc is not as toxic as you think, hell, they use zinc oxide in fucking sunscreen.
Other metals like lead, or dunno, cadmium, chromium - they bad.

[Anonymous No.2386379]

>>2386370
>There is a reason you can take them as supplements
You can take zinc as a supplement as well.

The problem is that a lot of steels, not just the fancy stainless and special alloy steels, will contain all kinds of elements besides iron and carbon. They can have things like copper, chrome, manganese, vanadium, nickel, etc. all of which ends up in the fumes you breathe while welding. With any welding that involves flux, like stick or flux core, you'll also breathe in the fumes of the flux as well.

That's why lots of welders end up getting health problems related to heavy metals. Galvanized meanwhile is mostly a boogeyman because you can get short term symptoms that are similar to flu.

[Anonymous No.2386477]

I bought one of these cheap arc welders off ebay to learn stick welding for hobby stuff. Now that I have it I'm wondering how safe it is. I assume it's pretty hard to mess up an arc welder since people make them out of microwaves and car batteries and shit, but how can I be sure this thing won't electrocute me when I use it?

[Anonymous No.2386591]

>>2386477
It should be safe, voltages on welders are generally don't output high voltage and don't run full amps before striking the arc and you'll weld on DC as well which is safer than AC. You might feel a buzz if you load a new electrode with wet gloves but it won't cause damage.

[Anonymous No.2386594]

>>2386477
If you have a multi meter, put it in continuity mode and put one probe on the earth pin of the mains plug and the other probe on some exposed metal of the case, there should be very low or no resistance. If it's open or high resistance, it's potentially dangerous.

[Anonymous No.2386652]

>>2386477
>Now that I have it I'm wondering how safe it is
Safe enough usually.
> but how can I be sure this thing won't electrocute me when I use it?
Stick welders can electrocute people. My welder has OVC of 75V and it sometimes shocks me. So use gloves etc.
>>2386591
If you feel buzz it is not safe. There is a reason some welders have VRD mode

[Anonymous No.2386809]

Why the fuck it is pain in the ass to stick weld 5/8 OD (16 mm) EMT? 1mm thick.
First I tried 6013s. Didn't work out that well, because slag was getting in front of weld puddle, was getting into the seam between pipes causing lack of fusion.
Then I used 6010/11s, day and night difference, no slag bullshit, and it actually welded two pieces together... If only I was better at using them.
Also tried texas tig, as i couldn't fit shit up nicely. Kinda liked the technique, was kinda satisfying to shove steel wire into the puddle and see it grow.

Can anyone explain why do 6011s work so much better for thin metal stuff? When to use which electrodes?

Because I don't know when to use which shit really. I wish i kinda picked up 6011s first, not 6013s.

But hey, booger welds hold world together I guess.

[Anonymous No.2387246]

>>2381108
>also
since you now have fancy transistors on the output, the AC can be made asymmetric, where one of the polarities is on longer then the other one. This helps with blasting off oxides and such.

[Anonymous No.2387308]

>>2387246
Yeah it's called A/C balance in TIG mode. The old transformer based AC/DC TIG machines still had A/C balance control, using huge beefy SCRs on the secondary side of the transformer. I don't know exactly how they did it since the transformer would supply a constant/equal sine wave at mains frequency, how they used SCRs to make one side of the sine wave last longer duration than the other side I don't know. Or did they just attenuate one side of the wave to make the other side output more power? I dunno, it's irrelevant now anyway those machines are obsolete.

I once had to look at a Lincoln transformer based A/C TIG in my old job as a welder repair man. Complaint was it would trip the breaker when they turned it on. This fucker was a 330 amp transformer running on SINGLE PHASE(!!!!) 415v. The primary demand was something like 60 amps for fucks sake. Of course the genius who sold the machine wired that single phase into a 32 amp 3 phase plug, only using two of the 3 lines. This fucking machine didn't have any pre-charge or anything, when you turned the power switch on the front then mains was applied directly to the primary winding of the tranny, insane in-rush demand...this was why the customers breaker was tripping randomly and why the 32 amp plug was almost burned to a crisp. Stupid, stupid machine.

So much more control and finesse, fine tuning with an inverter TIG machine yet some guys still prefer the old transformer A/C TIG machines. Don't tell them you can set your inverter to 60hz output and get the same result, the miller machines even let you change the shape of the output wave from square, sine, triangle or a rounded square wave.

Thanks for reading my blog post.

[Anonymous No.2387359]

>>2387246
>>2387308
Yes right. AC welder these days are just a shitty overpowered function generators

[Anonymous No.2387401]

>>2380830
pretty much this

[Anonymous No.2387402]

>>2386809
you're just shit man sorry

[Anonymous No.2387409]

>>2380602
why wouldn't this work?

[Anonymous No.2387414]

Why are there burger flippers making more than welders?

[Anonymous No.2387708]

>>2387402
Buy 5/8 EMT, get some stick rods and show me how would you weld. Really curious.

[Anonymous No.2387754]

>>2387409
the UV from the arc can be nasty on your skin and the people around him might get arc eye even if they're not looking directly at the arc. most likely the kid is just posing for a photo

[Anonymous No.2387762]

>>2387754
Once learned how to weld tig from an old guy. He only had one mask and a couple lenses out of masks. So whoever was welding had the mask and the guy watching held a lens to his eyes. I had one hell of a sunburn on my forehead.

[Anonymous No.2387767]

>>2387414
lots of welders are terrible at the job and work for shit-tier employers. the real protip is to git gud and always be looking for new places looking for welders

[Anonymous No.2387905]

I have a part that's worn down and I need to weld on it to build it back up. it's stamped sheet metal and less than 1/8" thick. I need to weld on the edge. how do I accomplish this without melting everything or warping it?

[Anonymous No.2387906]

>>2387905
cut piece of similar metal and butt weld it? Still will warp maybe

[Anonymous No.2387909]

>>2380551
https://forum.millerwelds.com/

https://weldingweb.com/vbb/forum.php

[Anonymous No.2387912]

>>2387905
Oxy-acetylene, TIG or careful MIG but practice on similar clean scrap first to set your machine correctly.

Post a pic for more specific advice.

[Anonymous No.2387914]

>>2387905
What type of welder have you got?

[Anonymous No.2387915]

>>2387409
I can't say from experience because I've never tried what he's doing but it makes sense to shield his body from the UVs by holding it closer to the weld. Still probably wreaking havoc on his eyes because they're not completely shielded.

[Anonymous No.2387917]

>>2387912
don't have a picture since someone just showed me the part asking if I knew how to fix it. basically it looks like this. the little tab that needs to be welded up is about half of a dime size. I have a tig welder but it's some harbor freight shit and I only have a 3/32 electrode.

[Anonymous No.2387918]

>>2380790
Tube or bar? Tube you can easily burn through with stick if you don't know what you're doing, bar just give it a slight 45° bevel, weld, then chip and file down til some paint will make it look professional.

[Anonymous No.2387920]

>>2387905
Can you facilitate some kind of heat sink close to where you're welding? depending on what you're doing adding small amounts at a time may help prevent warping.

[Anonymous No.2388330]

>>2386379
>is mostly a boogeyman
Don't be stupid. The fact that you get no serious health deterioration immediately after welding simple steel and iron says that it's not as dangerous, as galvanized.
>you can get short term symptoms that are similar to flu
It's called metal fewer and it can actually fucking kill you. And it's also really intense, not just a simple as flu.

[Anonymous No.2388361]

Holy fuck, after welding 1-2 mm shit, thicker plate (prob 4 mm) is so much fun with 6010/11.

[Anonymous No.2388422]

>>2388361
Yeah if I'm not mistaken 6010 penetrates really deep so it's not well suited to thinner material
You'd probably want small diameter 7018s instead

[Anonymous No.2388436]

>>2388330
This is what happens when someone learns that galvanized causes metal fume fever, looks up what it is and misses the part that says its caused by several different metals and the severity is determined by the toxícity level of the metals and ends up thinking that zinc poisoning is as serious as cadmium poisoning.

[Anonymous No.2388456]

>>2388422
>Yeah if I'm not mistaken 6010 penetrates really deep
yes. It indeed does.
>so it's not well suited to thinner material
Well. There is a pro for 6010 or 6011 on thin metals. Puddle solidifies fast, and unlike 6013 there is no slag, and unlike 7018 it still re-strikes rather easy, so you can weld shit tack by tack
>You'd probably want small diameter 7018s instead
I've doubts they even make 1/16 7018s.

[Anonymous No.2388676]

>>2388436
This
I've been welding for hours with galvanized zinc metal when I was more inexperienced, but all it gave me was headache. Cadmium or Chrome will give you cancer and liver damage.

[Anonymous No.2388684]

While we're on the topic of fume danger, how well does an n95 protect you?

[Anonymous No.2388730]

Is there any way of welding stainless without welding gas, and have the welds decent? MIG btw. Like flux core stainless wire.
Failing that, what happens if you use normal mild steel gasless wire on stainless? Obviously the welded part will rust, but will the weld hold?

[Anonymous No.2388901]

>>2388730
stick.
FCAW - dunno. Maybe.

[Anonymous No.2388903]

>>2388901
Yeah, flux core stainless exists.
>Failing that, what happens if you use normal mild steel gasless wire on stainless?
Shit weld that can crack in future. Let alone rust.
Actually, any stainless weld with rust without passivating it.

[Anonymous No.2389005]

>>2388436
It seems you're right, to some extend. I can't find fatal cases of zinc poisoning by welding.
Still, I wouldn't call it a boogeyman
>>2388676
>Cadmium or Chrome will give you cancer and liver damage
All welding processes can give you that, unfortunately
>>2388684
It's meh. Get a halfmask (the one you like, lots of them) and use p3 filters with a bit of activated carbon

[Anonymous No.2389161]

>>2388903
Yeah I heard you have to apply some sort of special "pickling" gel or whatever.

[Anonymous No.2389213]

>>2389161
this the stuff they use where I work

[Anonymous No.2389214]

>>2389213
so basically you just add this shit until it's looks shiny and doesnt have the heated colors/blue yellow etc?

[Anonymous No.2389230]

>>2380556
The 60 cubic feet tank is the biggest one that is human-liftable. Smaller and you have to go get gas too often.

[Anonymous No.2389234]

>>2389214
No idea, I'm not a welder I just work at a food plant where we do a lot of stainless welding.

[Anonymous No.2389263]

>>2389214
Probably.
When you weld, you burn off chrome which gives stainless its rust protection. Passivizing gel removes thin layer of burnt iron exposing chromium again, or smth like that.

[Anonymous No.2389587]

How toxic are gases from Oxy torch cromoly welding?
Can i weld in my apartment?

[Anonymous No.2389596]

>>2381110
Going to tiny filigree stuff, it may also be worth looking at laser welding setups as an alternative to micro-TIG.

[Anonymous No.2389600]

>>2389587

[Anonymous No.2389602]

Want to build myself a fixture plate (because I'm cheap, and have access to a Bridgeport and surface grinder). Nothing crazy big, like 300x300mm and maybe 10-20mm thick.
Go with Steel for rigidity, Aluminium for heat-sinking, or try and find a cast iron supplier?
And any britbong suppliers of small fixturing hardware (toggle clamps and the like) that don't charge an arm and a leg? Those would determine if I go for threaded holes or just clean bores.

[Anonymous No.2389628]

>>2389600
What?

[Anonymous No.2389632]

>>2389587
>Can i weld in my apartment?
Lol. It is not even tig lol.

[Anonymous No.2389639]

>>2389587
>I want to play with superheated shit in the palace of soft furnishings
I can guarantee you any fumes produced would have zero detrimental effect on your brain.

[Anonymous No.2389658]

>>2383010
a custom made jig

[Anonymous No.2389671]

>>2389632
Why would it be different?

[Anonymous No.2389677]

>>2383010
You can build a custom pipe jig with angle iron, problem is that you need to cut it for the specific angle. easy to do if you want 90 degree, hard to do if you want 54 degrees

[Anonymous No.2389690]

>>2389671
TIG in general is very clean because it uses inert gas which reduces all kinds of crap chemicals forming and being released into the air while the filler rods are just pure metal as well with no flux. Gas welding meanwhile can produce soot, all kinds of oxides from the heat since you´have zero shielding gas and so on and so on. Its not the dirtiest method to weld with but welding chrommoly in a small space is like asking writing to Santa that you want lung cancer for christmas. You just don't do it unless you've got vents and respirators and decent air circulation to clean out the stuff the other shit misses.

[Anonymous No.2389699]

>>2389690
Oh, thanks for the advice

[Anonymous No.2389983]

Stick welding blades.
What am I doing wrong?

[Anonymous No.2389984]

>>2389983

[Anonymous No.2390006]

>>2389983
stick welding

[Anonymous No.2390054]

>>2389983
What rod, rod diameter, and material thickness?

[Anonymous No.2390091]

>>2389983
>What am I doing wrong?
Stick welding blades.

[Anonymous No.2390251]

>>2390054
3/32 6013.
Material thickness - idk.
I also used steel wire to add more metal/cool shit down

[Anonymous No.2390253]

>>2380551
How does that nigger weld without blinding himself? Does he close his eyes every time or what?

[Anonymous No.2390279]

I have to weld cromoly tubes for a personal project but i live in an apartment.

What are my options?

I can't rent another place as i'm on a tight budget

[Anonymous No.2390339]

>>2390279
Do it outside lmao

[Anonymous No.2390357]

>>2390339
There are people walking

[Anonymous No.2390407]

>>2380551
I live in 3rd world shithole and my father own a workshop
we use cheap tinted sunglasses, I see big purple spot everytime I close my eyes

[Anonymous No.2390408]

>>2390407
Double the sunglasses. They sell tinted lenses and fixed shade helmets in the third world too.

[Anonymous No.2390426]

>>2390357
You could buy some green board and saw horses for a table and use a large shop vac as a fume extractor (I shoved my vac hose in a cutoff plastic jug to suck solder fumes). You can use welding blankets to protect nearby areas and floor.

Describe your situation in reasonable detail because that matters.

[Anonymous No.2390492]

>>2390357
that's fine they won't get arc burns unless they're looking straight at the arc and the fumes will dispurse fairly quickly

[Anonymous No.2390511]

>>2390426
Live in a medium sized apartment in a big city, i have windows but no balcony to work on and the floors are made out of wood

>>2390492
I'll probably get arrested

[Anonymous No.2390516]

>>2390511
>I'll probably get arrested
Why? Is it illegal to weld where you live or something? Seriously if you're worried about this you can probably just call the local firedepartment on a non-emergency number and ask if its fine.

[Anonymous No.2391279]

>>2389983
why are you stick welding blades that's a tig job

[Anonymous No.2391392]

>>2391279
But I tig welded them. Texas tig welded them.

[Anonymous No.2392841]

>>2380556
You can get them on Amazon.

[Anonymous No.2392931]

>>2380556
go to your local welding supply and buy one.

[Anonymous No.2393307]

is it possible to weld pot metal? I need to repair a very small part made out of some mystery alloy. the whole thing is about the size of a nickel and the two parts that I need to stick back together are match stick sized. apparently you can braze it but you need some cadmium braze and I don't have any.

[Anonymous No.2393558]

In theory yes but in practice probably not. you might be able to do it by using something like a small butane torch to fuse the pieces together but since its basically mystery metal it can react to high heat in every possible way from great to catastrophic. Even brazing is a bit risky and working with cadmium isn't something I'd recommend. If you really need it fixed there might be people who typically work on jewelry repair that might be able to fix it.

[Anonymous No.2393817]

>>2393558
I tried tig welding but it didn't work. it just vaporized the metal instead of making a puddle.

[Anonymous No.2393824]

>>2393817
sound like its got a high zinc content, genuinely hard metal to weld. if you want to look for possible solutions its probably similar to the the absolute worst cases of galvanized, which you've probabky already found since you brought up cadminum brazing.

Seriously, don't buy cadmium brazing rods. Don't weld with them. Don't practice to see if you can get good with them. Its cancer metal through and through.

[Anonymous No.2393832]

>>2393824
will cadbury brazing rods work

[Anonymous No.2393833]

>>2393832
yes, just dip in molten eggymixxy and apply heat on the weld area

[Anonymous No.2393943]

>>2393833
the heat of the weld cooks the egg

[Anonymous No.2393951]

>>2380914
the chink one is a waste of money ya dingus

[Anonymous No.2394036]

>>2381830
Looks like you are about to commit an act of terrorism anon.

[Anonymous No.2394257]

How many amps to properly tig weld a 0.035 inch (0.9cm) chromoly tube?

[Anonymous No.2394445]

How can I improve? 6011 stick welding using Tig225x

[Anonymous No.2394449]

>>2394445
Clean surface. While 6011 can burn through rust, shit and paint, it works best whenever surface is shiny clean.

[Anonymous No.2394466]

>>2394445
I don't know why but when I start and when I end I feel like I have good timing, but always in the middle I get too focused on the puddle and too much rod burns and I get too far. I can't seem to break this habit.

[Anonymous No.2394530]

>mum won't let me weld in the living room

[coom nigger No.2394566]

>>2394530
>being British
Weld yourself into a steel box

[Anonymous No.2394667]

>>2380551
How does Hobart or Forney hold up against Lincoln? I got a bead on a lincoln weld pak 125, used, but it's an hour drive to a relatively sketchy place, and I can get an equivalent forney or hobart from my local TSC for about the same price as the guy wants for the used lincoln.

[Anonymous No.2394691]

>>2394667
They should be fine.

Generally speaking, the higher the price the better the power efficiency is which results in you being able to have a higher output on the same outlet, and a higher duty cycle which basically means it takes longer ot cut off due to heat. That is basically only relevant if you want to push the machine to its limits for extended periods of time. If you're just looking for a machine to DIY with, you just avoid the Chinese mystery brands.

[Anonymous No.2394767]

>>2389983
You're welding break-off knives with high current?
Try to weld the blades to a huge chunk of steel and after welding the bades, cut off the huge chunk (heatsink).

[Anonymous No.2395169]

>>2394767
>You're welding break-off knives with high current?
My welder claimed it was running at 25A, but I don't know, maybe it is true since 6013 was barely lit up.
>Try to weld the blades to a huge chunk of steel and after welding the bades, cut off the huge chunk (heatsink).
Well. Maybe put them on copper bus bar or something like that? Steel shouldn't stick to copper I think.
Idk. I'd want to get a 1/16 rod, but they are rare as fuck. Thoughts about grinding 3/32 in half kek? Will it work? After all, we're not welding bridges here, not even chairs.
Maybe I should have used 6010 instead of 6013, because of slag, like there is not enough arc force to remove it.
Also, am I the only one who likes 6010 over 6011s? They just work better in my experience. And it is not like my inverter is any good.
>>2394691
>If you're just looking for a machine to DIY with, you just avoid the Chinese mystery brands.
Well. For stick welding you can safely buy mystery Chinese machine. Just be ready to divide current value by 2 or 3. Or fuck around with hot-start and schematics in order to disable it (this is what I did).

[Anonymous No.2395257]

>>2395169
>Just be ready to divide current value by 2 or 3
What do you mean by this?

[Anonymous No.2395271]

>>2395257
>What do you mean by this?
Chink device says 250A, but in reality it is 125A or less.

[Anonymous No.2395294]

>>2395271
Just bought pic related.
Works perfectly fine with 15A socket.
Welds 3/32 7018 rod no problem (longer than advertised duty cycle).
Welds TIG perfectly.
Good cooling system runs continuously.
Made in Canada.

[Anonymous No.2395295]

>>2395294
forgot pic

[Anonymous No.2395308]

>>2395271
And the hotstart disable? Why wouldn't you want hot start?

[Anonymous No.2395322]

>>2395308
>Why wouldn't you want hot start?
Hot start increases current for short period of time in order to heat up metal fast and start rod faster.
Problem is that this feature is annoying when you're welding thin metals (aka everything you will weld at home, because nobody welds 1/2 plates and I-beams at home).

Most welders come with sane pre-set that is OK for thin metal and a good help at welding thick stuff (i.e. you don't have to long arc it in the beginning).
Some chinese are just horrific. For example, my welder. If I set it to 40A, it outputs 80A for the first like 5 seconds which is waaay to long. After poking around with guts, I found some capacitor and I factory removed it, and hot start is practically gone (60a for 1/2 a second or so @ 40A set).

[Anonymous No.2395340]

>>2380551
I saw the sun, it burned out my eyes, I saw the sun...

[Anonymous No.2395341]

>>2395340
life is demanding without safety planning

[Anonymous No.2395344]

>>2386374
Chromium isn't bad.
Do you use stainless anything?
No all chrome is le hexavalent meme.

[Anonymous No.2395505]

>>2395344
>Do you use stainless anything?
Well, you see, it is safe under normal conditions and pretty inert . But when you heat it up - god knows which kind of oxides and other shits it makes, including hexavalent shit.

[Anonymous No.2395587]

How long should a 2.2 liter bottle of Argon should last for tig welding?

[Anonymous No.2395605]

>>2395587
https://www.albee.airliquide.com/arc-welding

[Anonymous No.2395645]

>>2380551
So ive been working as a welder for a shitty Chinese construction company in NYC, and i want to try and get a job in either Montana or Nevada, i don't have a welding cert, but i have experience and a former higher up in the DOB vouching for me, any good recommendations on how to make myself stand out?

[Anonymous No.2395652]

>>2395605
So with a 2.2 liter argon i only get 30 min of weld? That doesn't sound like much

[Anonymous No.2395702]

>>2395652
Depends on what your welding and how much. I'd say that size is just for small repair work

[Anonymous No.2395900]

>>2395645
>any good recommendations on how to make myself stand out?
Get some certs and start applying to everywhere.

[Anonymous No.2395903]

I bought a welder that's capable of pulsed welding, and because I decided to splurge on the more expensive one I don't have the money to buy welding helmet right now.

I need to start welding so I can make money in order to buy helmet, but this is also why I went with a pulse machine.

My thought is that if I rapidly blind and time my blinks to the pulses, that I should be able to have my eyes shut while the electrode is arching, and open when the it's not arching.

I'm pretty fast a blinking and I've only got to get through one or two jobs this way, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had any success doing this?

thanks

[Anonymous No.2396046]

>>2395903
You're gonna get a sunburn from hell if you're *lucky*. Go suck 10 dicks for $5 a piece and get a shitty fixed lens helmet.

[Anonymous No.2396052]

>>2395903
Buy a fixed shade hood or a Harbor Freight autodark if you're telling the truth though I doubt anyone is that stupid. Go study welding and get a clue if not trolling.

[Anonymous No.2396347]

>>2395903
absolutely horrific idea, a welding helmet is non negotiable PPE unless you want to be blind and sunburned worse than is naturally possible to the point you'll get melanoma and darken your skin considerably

[Anonymous No.2396466]

I'm a US citizen whose been living in Europe most of his adult life. Despite my education as a machinist, the past four years I've been welding aluminum (MIG) and have become really damn good at it.
I have however gradually come to hate living as a yuropoor and want to return to the US, ideally to be near grandparents and cousins in new england. To this end I've been sending out 100+ applications for welding/fabrication jobs but have only heard back from a couple potential employers whose all eventually turned me down or stopped responding to e-mails.

I'm becoming rather disheartened by this lack of progress and so I'm asking here if any anons can hook me up with a contact for a stateside job. All I need is a shoebox to live out of and a ten hour shift to occupy my days.

[Anonymous No.2396474]

>>2395903
Just use safety squints

[Anonymous No.2396650]

>>2396466
idk if it's still true but I heard shipyards were hiring welders a few years ago. there's bath iron works in maine.

[Sage No.2396655]

>>2396466
the issue is not that there are not welding jobs in america, there are many, the hard truth is that companies just don't want to sponsor a visa because it's expensive and complicates taxes and they can find talent here, this isn't just a thing in welding but pretty generally across the board, but it's more acute here because there's no possibility of working remote

[Anonymous No.2396658]

>>2396655
Wouldn't him being a US citizen mean that he doesn't need a visa?

[Anonymous No.2397320]

My latest 6013. Any pointers?

[Anonymous No.2397355]

>>2397320
Im pretty sure it has some undercut

[Anonymous No.2397381]

>>2397320
Only use 7018. Like the rest of the planet. Shipyards will straight run your ass off if you've got anything but 7018.

[Anonymous No.2397472]

>>2397381
Wrong. Use whatever shit is appropriate for the task. They make different electrodes for a reason.
But yes, I think in this case 6010 or 7018 would be better choice, because 6013 likes to shit with slag, trap it, etc.