/chem/ - Chemistry General: NCl3 abomination edition

[Anonymous No.2332732]

Thread dissolved:>>2309628

This is a thread for discussion of applied chemistry. This means mainly inorganic chemistry with things you can buy from a hardware store or eBay. Some practical uses include:
>rust removal
>metal plating and anodising
>precious metal refining
>circuit board etching
>solid rocket motors
>mercury toxicity

Useful resources:
>sciencemadness.org
>library.sciencemadness.org
>finishing.com
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_reduction_potentials
>sci-hubtw.hkvisa.net/
>https://www.webqc.org/balance.php
There’s all sorts of scientific papers and blogs and patents out there tackling individual reactions, search engines are your friend. Knowing what terms to search is often the hardest part of studying a new topic.

Youtube Channels:
>Nurdrage:https://www.youtube.com/c/NurdRage
>Nilered:https://www.youtube.com/c/NileRed/videos
>Extractions and ire:https://www.youtube.com/c/ExtractionsIre
>Explosions and fire:https://www.youtube.com/c/ExplosionsFire2
>Doug's lab:https://www.youtube.com/user/DougsLab
>Scrap science:https://www.youtube.com/c/ScrapScience
>Cody’s Lab: https://www.youtube.com/user/theCodyReeder
>Applied Science: https://www.youtube.com/c/AppliedScience
>Chemplayer:https://www.bitchute.com/channel/2vWmMgSEZ2jf/
A much more comprehensive list over at http://www.sciencemadness.org/smwiki/index.php/List_of_chemistry_Youtube_channels

For books check libgen

Sources of ingredients and paraphernalia:
>ebay/aliexpress
>alibaba
>hardware stores
>farming/gardening stores
>pool stores
>local chemical suppliers (may not sell to home addresses)
Due to how quantitative this hobby is, proper measurement equipment is quite important. A good set of scales is useful, alongside graduated glassware. Strips of universal pH paper are cheap and usable.

>for more theoretical and academic chemistry go to /sci/
>for drugs go to /b/
>for explosives go to /fbi/

[Anonymous No.2332737]

so apparently hcl from the hardware store isn't very pure, which would explain why it sometimes turns purple
distilling hcl sounds really bad

i wonder if it's cheaper to just electrolyse it out of table salt?

[Anonymous No.2332787]

Tell me how to go from pee to mustard gas.
Go!

[Anonymous No.2332945]

>>2332737
Maybe try adding sulfuric acid to calcium chloride. The calcium sulfate should precipitate out and can be filtered off

[Anonymous No.2332961]

>>2332945
Sulfuric acid is more expensive than hydrochloric acid, if you can even buy it, which I can't where I live.

I plan on making sulfuric acid out of epsom salts the same way I'd make sulfuric acid from table salt, but I'll need to ensure I make O2 instead of Cl2. Since I don't want to make particularly low concentration acid, I'll likely need to use a low current density. I'm also considering making a little circuit to provide feedback to ensure that there's never too high of a potential difference directly across the ion transfer membrane, in case that proves an issue.
On the other hand, deliberately making Cl2 gas instead of oxygen and recirculating that gas through would lead to the production of an oxidising chlorine based acid, which could be a useful oxidant. Without the membrane you just make the sodium perchlorate salt.

[Anonymous No.2333038]

>>2332737
Distilling it isn't so bad but you have to be absolutely sure you have very good ventilation. It shouldn't be too hard to get the glassware required, such as some 24/40 flasks, Liebig condenser, heating mantle, lab stands, Keck clips, and the couple adapters you'll need. Also not a bad idea to grease the joints with a little Vaseline and get a good seal.

[Anonymous No.2334277]

Do any of you own Geiger counters with dosimeter? Which manufacturer do you recommend if I want to buy a device with a sufficiently large range to be accurate in case of nuclear fallout?

[Anonymous No.2334289]

>>2332732
jesus fuck op that image is NSFW
get rid of that abomination i don't want to die

[Anonymous No.2334591]

>>2334289
I'm gonna... I'M GONNA...
BOOOOOOOOOOM

[Anonymous No.2334594]

>>2334277
That's more of a physicist question than a chem question

Also what's the best way to make carbon carbon bonds? I'm pondering ways to make larger hydrocarbons from ready to get things like ethanol and acetylene

[Anonymous No.2335474]

>>2334594
Just pyrolyze plastic if you want hydrocarbons

[Anonymous No.2335577]

>>2323294

there are two anons that i think have this kind of apparatus. one inherited it from his grandpa or uncle, who was trying to make a cure for cancer. the other is centrifuge-anon

[Anonymous No.2335715]

I don't know hardly anything about chemistry, but I have hydroponics where the pH is important. I've read that distilled water is very close to 7 but when exposed to air the pH will absorb carbon dioxide and the pH will drop, maybe as low as 5.5

So, if my nutrient solution is 6 and I add distilled water from a new container, I'd expect the pH to go up, but after a while does that distilled water absorb carbon dioxide and thus make the pH go down?

[Anonymous No.2335716]

>>2335715
>the pH will absorb carbon dioxide

derp. "the water will absorb carbon dioxide"

[Anonymous No.2335782]

I need a heating mantle. I have electronics experience and tools, should I try to DIY one or just buy one?

I found this boy https://www.expondo.fr/steinberg-systems-chauffe-ballon-avec-agitateur-magnetique-numerique-pour-ballons-de-laboratoire-1-000-ml-10030447

Seems ok? Is it basically the Chinese ones just rebranded? Looks like the same kind of mantles I could get from deschem.

[Anonymous No.2335818]

>>2335715
I wouldn't expect that adding distilled water from a jug from the store would cause a nutrient solution with pH 6 to go up in pH very much if at all. A lot of times those jugs can have a pH lower than 6 from the time you get them.
If you're trying to "calculate" what the end pH of your nutrient solution should be after formulating it, you'd be better off testing it to be sure after formulation rather than relying on a guesstimate. Distilled water has a very low ionic strength which means that trying to measure it's pH is sometimes unreliable

[Anonymous No.2335826]

>>2335818
>If you're trying to "calculate" what the end pH of your nutrient solution should be after formulating it

Thanks for the answer. It was a stupid question, for sure.

[Anonymous No.2336954]

>>2334594
Well, there are many methods. Safest and well known is malonate ester synthesis. It doesn't require anhydrous conditions, nor heating up the mixture to 300°C. It makes C-C bond, but there is a carboxylic group left in molecule after the reaction

To make a hydrocarbon, go just with good old Wurtz reaction. Not too difficult, works rather fast, not expensive, although it gives poor yields sometimes.

[Anonymous No.2338228]

Fuck me, gas is going to hit $5 a gallon at this rate. If there was any time to work on a homemade gasoline project it would be now

[Anonymous No.2338532]

>>2332737
if you absolutely need "pure" HCl just buy it from a chemical supplier or distill the azeotrope. it's a pain in the ass to make it in large volumes from the usual methods. that said, ive always used impure consumer grade with a yellow tint, and it's always worked fine.

[Anonymous No.2338646]

Uhhh, good way for how to handle and evaporate heptane without the stink and in a stealthy way.
Also would heptane fumes have an effect on plastic?
My thought is to pump the air from my ac into a box where i can put the heptane and from the box to outside, though maybe that would stink up the whole neighbourhood.
I have no chemistry experience

[Anonymous No.2338772]

>>2338228
>homemade gasoline project
We're gonna need more plutonium, Marty.

[Anonymous No.2338779]

>>2332732
How hard to do are microfluidics ?

[Anonymous No.2338857]

>>2338779
>microfludicks
das rayciss

[Anonymous No.2338863]

>>2338646
Keep the hexane in a sealed container with a hose. Use the hose to run the hexane fumes into a fire to incinerate them. Make sure to make a flashback arrester so fire doesn't spread up the hose. This can be done by bubbling it through water into a container with another hose

[Anonymous No.2339421]

>>2338863
Smart, thanks for lending me your big brain

[Anonymous No.2339440]

>>2338228
It's called ethanol.
>inb4 cars' pistons, cylinders, and fuel delivery systems are made of zinc, aluminum, and cork rubber

[Anonymous No.2339569]

>>2339440
Pure ethanol doesn't work very well ina normal engine though. Is there something i could add to ethanol to make it run better?

[Anonymous No.2340011]

>>2339569
gasoline

[Anonymous No.2340516]

>>2339569
If it's a carburated engine, you need to rejet and refloat the carb. If you get a lean condition at WOT, get larger fuel injectors and a stronger pump.

In addition to >>2340011
I've never ran a car above 85% ethanol. Most of my driving is with E30.

[Anonymous No.2341869]

>grow wintergreen
>Extract methyl salicylate from oil
>Convert methyl salicylate to phenol
How feasible would this be for phenol production? I feel like it would take a lot of wintergreen to produce a usable amount.

[Anonymous No.2342395]

>>2341869
That's Holly. Wintergreen is a groundcover and it doesn't have pokey leaves.

[Anonymous No.2342571]

>>2342395
Google images lied to me. How much wintergreen oil does each plant produce on average? Also how delicate is the plant

[Anonymous No.2342573]

>>2342571
It's not a delicate plant, but I think it wants acidic soil.
If you grow it at home and fertilize it it will bear a lot more berries than it would in the woods. I have no idea how that translates to oil production though.

[Anonymous No.2342807]

>>2342573
How many years does it live? And when can it be harvested? I'm beginning to seriously consider planting it since seed is cheap and i guess it's perennial. It doesn't grow naturally where i live but that's probably because i don't live in a forested area. I'm in USDA zone 4 so i think it should grow.

[Anonymous No.2342832]

>>2342807
Check its (and your) agricultural zone. It self seeds here but we have shitty blueberry field "soil"

[Anonymous No.2343090]

>>2342571
>How much wintergreen oil does each plant produce on average
tiny amounts (1mL or less), and it's a huge waste of solvent. If you want phenol, decarb salicylic acid

[Anonymous No.2343195]

>>2343090
>salicylic acid
What's the typical yield from willow tree bark?

[Anonymous No.2343213]

>>2343195
jack shit, read a book

[Anonymous No.2343218]

>>2343213
I CAN'T READ, PLANKTON PENIS

[Anonymous No.2344082]

>not in stock
:(

[Anonymous No.2344172]

PSA:
do not respond to posts about weaponisable chemicals

[Anonymous No.2344198]

>>2339569
What you are looking for is biodiesel. It's made afaik with high pressure from oils. Algae might be a nice way to get oil, if you can process it. Then all you have to do is to create long hydrocarbon chains from it.
When you do it right you can literally place it into some old diesel volvo or something and it will run just fine.

[Anonymous No.2345799]

Cross posting from /ohm/

>>2345754
I'm not much into chemistry and honestly have no idea what the fuck I'm doing, so I'll probably shit up the thread more than anything. As for the EL panels, The most I've found was various articles on the processes involved, Like making your own conductive glass with tin oxide: https://simplifier.neocities.org/snosb.html (though I failed at this and ended up caving in and buying PEDOT:PSS)
And the rest of the EL info I have is just from googling, like that one instructables article that'll always show up. There's also a few old hackaday articles on it, as well as that one chick on youtube(can't remember her name) who did a series of videos on EL stuff, like power supplies, making the EL display, EL wire, and even trying to make her own phosphor(which didn't work, unfortunately). No real bigger developments on DIYing it have been made in the past 10 or so years, with the exception of the applied science guy, but his doesn't really count considering he just bought a $400 kit with everything you need already in it. Still neat though. I've been trying to do it cheaper than everyone else and failing miserably with every attempt, though I think the problem is the phosphor I'm using, and not my application/process itself. Guy on ebay told me it was electroluminescent powder, but it just acts like regular glow powder. For interest it's Zinc sulfide doped with copper and chlorine.

As for the barium titanate, That seems to be what literally everyone is using. I'm not sure if it's because not much else would work for the application, or because that's just what one person used to make it work and everyone else has just copied off of it. if it's only role is a dielectric, I don't see why literally ANY thin, translucent insulative coating wouldn't work. I've also tried just simple clear "cellophane"(it's not real cellophane) gift wrap from the store, which again, didn't work, but I'm not 100% certain as to why none of my attempts have worked.

[Anonymous No.2346001]

>>2345799
>snosb
Oh it's tin mixed with antimony chloride. I've heard of indium-tin oxide but never antimony. Interesting stuff.
>heated a number of pieces of glass to between 400°C and 500°C on my hot plate and sprayed them with varying amounts of the solution
This does sound like a somewhat unreliable method, I'd consider trying to use a spin-coater and IR lamps. That or just building a sputter magnetron like you should have in the first place. Applied Science and Thought Emporium have both covered the topic in reasonable detail.
The other method is to use a fine wire mesh like what EL wire does. Pre-coated glass slides might be somewhat cheaper than that pedo-shit.
>considering he just bought a $400 kit with everything you need already in it
Yeah those kits are real expensive for what they are. Personally I bought some aliexpress EL strips/tapes to cut into shape, and some conductive glue to hopefully reterminate them. There are some panels out there too. Nice and flexible.

>Zinc sulfide doped with copper and chlorine
My intuition told me that any old phosphor would work as a dielectric for a given electric polarisation. Titanates and other "good" dielectrics will have a much higher polarisation for a given voltage, but what's a few hundred volts to a resonant EL driver anyhow? Ensure to search through a range of frequencies, my chinky EL wire goes dark above 10kHz or so.
Is the barium titanate supposed to be a phosophor and a good dielectric at the same time? You may want to try mixing dielectric powder with a phosphor, or scraping phosphors out of white LEDs, or whatever.

Are you experimenting with edge-lit systems first? Takes the guesswork out of the conductive glass, plus it eats less current so you can easily crank up the voltage with a boost converter or ZVS'er or whatever.

[Anonymous No.2346224]

>>2346001
>My intuition told me that any old phosphor would work as a dielectric for a given electric polarisation
EL works like a capacitor, so the phosphor(zinc sulfide with cu/ci(the light emitting part)) is supposed to contact only one polarity. The entire circuit is never supposed to be 'closed', so you have layer 1(conductive something or another), layer 2(phosphor) layer 3(dielectric), layer 4(transparent conductive coating). Now I've tried everything, including making my own EL wire with magnet wire, and the only constant in all of my experiments is the phosphor. From my research, Zinc sulfide doped with copper is indeed the correct compound to be using for an EL phosphor, but the unknown is the addition of the chlorine dopant. I'm not sure how actual EL phosphor is supposed to react to light normally, but the stuff I have is incredibly sensitive to any light and glows for a long, long time after exposure, and refuses to glow at all in the presence of an electric field.

>I'd consider trying to use a spin-coater and IR lamps
This sounds reasonably easy, however I've already bought the PEDOT:PSS, and also I'm not sure if IR would work the same way. The history of all conductive tin coatings has always been with pyrolysis from my research(besides ITO), and I've never seen or heard of anyone ever achieving the same thing without a magnetron or spraying onto heated glass.
>That or just building a sputter magnetron
My guy, I'm failing miserably at making a god damn EL panel, what makes you think I could successfully pull that one off? Also I'd love to own them, but I don't have a lathe nor a mill, so it'll cost an extreme amount of money for me to build one that isn't janky as fuck.

[Anonymous No.2346232]

>>2346001
>>2346224
I also linked the wrong article for conductive glass, whoops. here's a more in depth one: https://simplifier.neocities.org/optglass.html

[Anonymous No.2346258]

>>2338228
You need the Bench-top Oil Refinery from RONCO®!

[Anonymous No.2346412]

>>2346224
>the stuff I have is incredibly sensitive to any light and glows for a long, long time after exposure
Sounds like it's optimised for phosphorescence as opposed to fluorescence. Do you have a tesla coil? If not, either buy a kit or make a little slayer exciter, they produce really strong electric fields that you can test phosphors with by holding them close. If your zinc sulfide doesn't react to it at all it's probably useless for EL purposes (frequency might be a component idk).

>I've never seen or heard of anyone ever achieving the same thing without a magnetron or spraying onto heated glass
You'd still be heating the glass up above 400C afterwards, the spin-coating would just to ensure that the layers of chloride salt are very even. Though maybe the grain size of the chloride salt is different to the oxide salt so you'd get a flakier coating than if you sprayed it onto an already hot piece of glass.

>what makes you think I could successfully pull that one off
Glass jar, vacuum pump, a ring of silicone, some plumbing fittings, that's got your chamber done. The actual magnet piece is the problem though, I think they all need to be liquid cooled to avoid the curie point. Maybe you could do one decently with an electromagnet, but even then magnet wire doesn't handle more than 150C.

Also hardware store HCl is frequently impure, my stuff is a bit purple even, I think Scrap Science made a video on how to refine it recently. Probably distillation.

[Anonymous No.2346461]

I'm holding a science class for orphans. Does anyone have a recipe for sugar crystals?

[Anonymous No.2346498]

>>2344082
Hate to break it to you anon but that's not the only issue, the other three compounds aren't actually zinc.

[Anonymous No.2346500]

>>2344172
That's like 90% of all chemicals though.

[Anonymous No.2346504]

>>2346500
if you throw it hard enough at someone or force them to eat it maybe

[Anonymous No.2346534]

>>2346461
Boil water
Add sugar until it doesn't dissolve anymore
Cool water down

Just basic recrystallization

[Anonymous No.2346744]

>>2338228
Hey what about calaytic hydrogenation of turpentine? Is that a process?

[Anonymous No.2346779]

>>2346744
>hydrogenation
I'm now imagining a pine fuel setup, getting hydrogen from wood gas, using the wood gas producer's heat for turpentine distillation, etc.
Anyhow those pinenes definitely have a double bond or two that you could hydrogenate, though I can't tell you what kind of properties the resulting liquid would have, nor how much tar you'd get.

[Anonymous No.2346804]

>>2332732
how does i make sars inshallah and chemical bomb? bitch lasagne

[Anonymous No.2346806]

>>2332732
How does i make obama, sorry for bad english? inshalla.

[Anonymous No.2347019]

>>2346744
You can hydrogenate anything that's unsaturated, but the problem is hydrogenation usually requires special catalysts, high pressures, and high temperatures. Couple that with the fact that hydrogen is difficult to contain, incompatible with steel, and tends to explode upon mixing with air and you begin to see that it isn't very doable for the home chemist

[Anonymous No.2347443]

Hello friends, I am looking to silver plate steel and it seems like you need potassium cyanide as the electrolyte. Are there any alternatives that work well or can you give me advice on how to either make or procure some?

[Anonymous No.2347461]

>>2347443
UPDATE:
I found that they sell premade electroplating solution on ebay, which seems a lot easier than trying to buy potassium cyanide.

[Anonymous No.2347464]

>>2347443
>it seems like you need potassium cyanide as the electrolyte
I think the potassium cyanide is used as a complexing agent to make the plating favourable, as opposed to a definite requirement. There's all sorts of other complexing compounds (like thiourea from some silver polishes) that may work instead.

Another option is to plate different metals onto the iron first to create a layer that the silver will plate on. Pretty sure copper will do the trick just fine.

>>2347461
Those plating kits tend to be kinda expensive, but when you're dealing with silver salts it may be cost effective.

[Anonymous No.2347484]

>>2347464
Yeah the kits are pricey. A pennyweight of silver(1.55g), 1% or less cyanide in a quart of distilled water for 30 bucks + shipping.

I'm silver plating a decorative dirk for a customer, so I need something that just works and isn't obscenely expensive. I expect the blade itself to be fairly expensive so it shouldn't be too big of a deal.

[Anonymous No.2347490]

>>2347484
To be honest I'd buy ebay silver nitrate, and copper sulfate from wherever has it. Iron immersed in copper sulfate will plate copper onto itself naturally, which you could thicken up by electroplating it. Then immerse the copper-plated iron in a solution of silver nitrate (or spray or wipe it on) and it will naturally form a layer on it. Should be doable for $15. The silver layer won't be very thick though, so you'll probably want to clear-coat it. Do some tests.

[Anonymous No.2347511]

>>2347490
Interesting. I may try both. I can make some fun art pieces with the extra and the test pieces. If the guy accepts my quote I'll post some of my test stuff on here for fun.

I wonder how much more durable the straight iron silver plate would be compared to copper then silver. The guy said he's probably not going to use the blade or only once possibly, but I'm still going to do everything in the best way possible.

[Anonymous No.2347532]

Speaking of electroplating, I want to know what the fuck I just created.
>obtain bag of anhydrous citric acid
>fill mason jar with room temp tap water
>keep adding / stirring until it no longer dissolves
>put small length of copper pipe inside the solution to seed it with copper
>it violently reacts with the acid, generating a whole shitton of heat and bubbles to the point that I'm afraid to go near the thing without eye protection and can't hold the mason jar from the heat
>eventually settles down and turns an extremely murky dull green
It plates copper like a son of a bitch, too. Comparing it to my copper acetate solution, it's not only a tougher finish, but it also perfectly replicates the original surface finish of the part before electroplating, so brushed steel finish = brushed copper finish. Definitely not something the copper acetate could do. The rate of deposition is also extremely high. just 5 seconds in the solution and the part is already a completely uniform copper, even the surfaces that weren't directly facing the copper anode.

So what the fuck just happened?

[Anonymous No.2347577]

>>2347511
Electroplating can definitely leave a thicker coating atop the iron than electroless plating, so if you're not using a clearcoat on it you'll want to electroplate even my method. Not sure whether silver would be hard enough to resist scratching from a use or two, but at least it's possible to polish it. Then again, sanding and spraying another layer of clearcoat would probably fix it fine.

>>2347532
Copper dissolving is exothermic. Also it's highly possible that you can plate those steel parts without any electric current at all, though I can't tell you how thick the coating would be.

[Anonymous No.2348644]

I know HDPE by itself is pretty chemically resistant, so I plan to make some reaction vessels by melting the stuff together in the right shape with a soldering iron. Should be solid enough for the temperatures I care about. But are there any potential additives in the plastic I should care about? I'll be sourcing it from ice cream containers.

I'll post updates as I make progress.

[Anonymous No.2349691]

>>2348644
After some trial and error, I've made a small cup to contain either the anode or cathode. Tomorrow I'll fill it with epsom salt + distilled water with a copper cathode, and chuck my spent etchant and a platinum anode in the other side, with any luck I can remake the etchant itself.

[Anonymous No.2350109]

Sup, /chem/bros. Does anyone have a good recipe for electrical contact cleaner (and potentiometer lube) handy? <-- lmao
DeOxit is like 95% naptha, but the rest is oleic acid and some other shit. Any approximation on the remaining secret ingredients is appreciated.

[Anonymous No.2350151]

>>2350109
as far as cleaning agents go, you can just use acetone. As far lube goes, you probably want a non-drying or semi-drying oil that can be thinned with acetone. as far as secret ingredients go, I wouldn't be surprised if they had surfactants in there. Basically surface tension modifiers(think soap) that allow the cleaner to better wet the surface and lift away dirt and shit.

Take all of this with a grain of salt. I'm mostly talking out my ass.

[Anonymous No.2350179]

>>2349691
Woop, accidentally turned my platinum wire electrode into a hot wire thermometer for a second there. While it was submerged. Fun stuff.

>>2350109
>>2350151
In addition to this, I'd imagine they'd use non-ionic surfactants, which you may be able to find in household cloudy ammonia, or just buy from ebay. The oleic acid must act as some sort of flux I guess? For getting rid of oxides without corroding the metal contacts. I just used fine sandpaper. Hear an eraser works well too.

As for the lube, I always wonder how dielectric greases allow electrical contact through the pressure, they must be designed to not form thin insulating films between the contacts. Or maybe all greases are like that.

[Anonymous No.2350210]

>>2350151
>>2350179
Thanks, Anons. I'll start experimenting with small batches and different mixes. Zippo fluid and citric acid might work well?

[Anonymous No.2350260]

>>2349691
On my persuflate etchant recycling journey. Just got rid of basically all of the copper, now I've put the cathode into the ion barrier and am running current through it. Added some epsom salts to the cathode cup to increase conductivity of the distilled water. The only bubbles should be around the copper cathode, but evidently I'm making oxygen gas. It looks like I'm still making more hydrogen than oxygen so the sulfate ion should be getting oxidised to some extent, but who can say, especially since the bubbles are such different sizes. Hope the smaller O2 bubbles dissolve again and help the oxidation. Also the gas emitted is all kinds of nasty to breathe in, both in the first stage but especially now. Probably chlorine from the water, but it may also be the acetic acid I added during the etch. I'll be sure to use citric acid and distilled water from now on.

The first stage that got rid of the copper should have left me with sulfuric acid and ammonium sulfate, so measuring pH is a good way of checking the progress of the reaction. Shame I can't find my pH papers. I can test the oxidising capability of the persulfate with some fine copper wire, which will have to do.

The platinum wire looks like it's holding up just fine, though it's hard to say this soon. Probably didn't get chinked at least.

[Anonymous No.2350281]

>>2350260
That's neat and all, but what exactly are you doing?

[Anonymous No.2350286]

>>2350281
PCB etching:
>ammonium persulfate + copper --> copper sulfate + ammonium sulfate
Electrochemical recovery:
>copper sulfate + ammonium sulfate --> ammonium sulfate + copper + sulfuric acid + O2
>ammonium sulfate + sulfuric acid --> ammonium persulfate + H2
Not sure if the persulfate generation actually works with the present concentration and pH, this is rather experimental even though I'm pretty sure I remember seeing it done once or twice before in papers or patents.

[Anonymous No.2350304]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Kb5hRZJ_cHI
New extractions and ire video. This time you get to see Tom once again convert all his starting material into tar while hopped up on caffeine.
Also i worry this reaction will break him

[Anonymous No.2350780]

>>2350286
Ok the second stage didn't work, it barely touches a tiny piece of thin copper wire, which could just be the small amount of etchant left behind.
Anyhow, I've got impure sulfuric acid now. Just did some sort of titration, took ~12.2mL of it to stop fizzing when added to 1/4 tsp (1.25mL) of compacted sodium bicarbonate. I should buy a few pH indicators.

>2NaHCO3 + H2SO4 --> 2CO2 + H2O + Na2SO4
>NaHCO3: density = 2.2g/mL, molar mass = 84g/mol, 38.2mL/mol
>1.25/38.2 = 0.0327mol bicarbonate
>0.0327/2 = 0.0164mol sulfuric acid
>0.0164/0.0122 = 1.34mol/L
That's assuming the kitchen bicarbonate of soda is anhydrous.

Next I'll try to make sulfuric acid from epsom salts.

[Anonymous No.2350793]

>>2350780
Oh and this kiln paper just falls apart like regular paper after hours of water exposure, so I can't recommend it as an ion barrier at all. Chances are any persulfate being made was destroyed at the cathode, though I don't know how much that would have changed even with a highly restrictive ion barrier. I'll wait for my ceramic dish to be (re)sent before trying anything else. May also be worth looking into selective ion barriers, the persulfate ion is somewhat large and so should be relatively easy to keep away from the cathode.

[Anonymous No.2350795]

>>2350286
>>2350260
>>2350780
As a retard who knows next to nothing about chemistry, where does one go to learn the basics?

[Anonymous No.2350804]

>>2350795
High school chem and one uni paper makes the foundation of my knowledge. Also I watch a shitton of chem youtubers. Mainly NileRed, Scrap Science, and Explosions&Fire. The first two show plenty of reactions that are practical and easy to do at home, the latter also to some extent. But they won't give you much of a background in the theory, which is a necessity since chemistry is a mostly quantitative process. For that I'd recommend finding some entry level texts on chem.libretexts.org or whatever.

[Anonymous No.2350815]

>>2350260
>>2350780

Is this just the result of nerdsniping yourself to see if you could do it, or is there some reason you're avoiding copper chloride as an etchant?

[Anonymous No.2350822]

>>2350815
>is there some reason you're avoiding copper chloride as an etchant
Because chlorides make chlorine gas when you electrolytically pull out the copper again. I'll definitely try to use copper sulfate as an etchant, but to make pure copper sulfate in the first place I'll need to oxidise copper in the presence of sulfuric acid. H2O2 would work, but I think I'll try to do this with an ion barrier between the copper anode and the cathode at which H2 will be produced, in an attempt to prevent copper from depositing on the cathode.
Or buy it from the garden store. Should probably get onto that one eh.

In addition, I suspect the etching times of copper2+ as an oxidant may not be sufficiently fast for the purpose of etching my circuit boards. Especially HV boards with lots of copper between the traces (i.e. no ground fill). I'm in the process of switching over to using UV-cure photoresists that start to fall apart after an hour in any solution, so having an etchant that takes 40 minutes maximum is a requirement. I know acidified persulfate works, I have persulfate already, and I know that it should be possible to regenerate it, hence this attempt. I should try again with garden store copper sulfate and try to turn it into peroxysulfuric acid, which sounds like it would be a really fucking fast etchant, possibly to the extent that it boils when I add the copper and melts off my photoresist.

Furthermore, this is using the spent etchant from my last circuit board (an HV one with lots of copper) that's been sitting about, and now I have some H2SO4 for acidifying etchant. Also some high surface area (dendritic?) copper powder for making conductive ink for PTHs or electroforming or whatever. Guess that kinda falls under the nerdsniping banner.

[Anonymous No.2351114]

>>2350795
definitely not from this guy

[Anonymous No.2351431]

>>2351114
thanks

[Anonymous No.2352150]

>>2346258
Now I am excited for product.

[Anonymous No.2352218]

>>2350822
>Because chlorides make chlorine gas when you electrolytically pull out the copper again

Uh...you just don't do that. The copper chloride solution regenerates itself in the presence of oxygen. It's also significantly faster than ammonium persulfate.

http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/CuCl2.htm

It's what I've been using to etch boards for a long time. The only real downside is how corrosive the HCL fumes are (and spills would be more of a disaster because strong acid), but that's still plenty manageable. Unless you're specifically trying to extract metallic copper back out of your etchant for some reason, I'm still not entirely sure why you're going through all this trouble with the persufate.

[Anonymous No.2352248]

>>2352218
>The copper chloride solution regenerates itself in the presence of oxygen
Mate O2 regeneration keeps reducing the pH. You have to keep adding HCl to keep the pH up, which just inflates the amount of solution you have. Plus the hardware store HCl where I live isn't very pure and I hardly have the setup to distil it.

Gonna buy some copper(II) sulfate today and try it instead, I'll also use it to make some sulfuric acid that I can use to acidify the solution. I'll know that's pretty pure.

>It's also significantly faster than ammonium persulfate
Didn't see that coming, neat.
>Unless you're specifically trying to extract metallic copper back out of your etchant for some reason
The main aim is to regenerate the etchant itself, the copper powder is just a byproduct needed to keep the etchant at the same quality and concentration. This doesn't really apply to copper-based etchants, but the idea of having to swap to a larger jar over time just rubs me the wrong way, even if it's a once in a blue moon incident. Maybe the chlorides and vapours are more of a put-off. I'll keep my mind open though. How do I get pure copper chloride in the first place, HCl + copper + oxygen bubbling? H2O2? Or do you buy the salt off ebay? Guess I'd have to buy an aquarium bubbler off ebay or wherever anyhow.

[Anonymous No.2353450]

>>2352248
>which just inflates the amount of solution you have

For a home gamer, it's insignificant. The gallon jug the acid comes in is enough for a LOT of dissolved copper. Unless you're removing large portions of 2oz/3oz board, easily in the high hundreds/low thousands.

>How do I get pure copper chloride in the first place

Read the link, it tells you everything you need to know. You can just buy the chloride, but there's not much reason to if you're in a hurry. Just leaving some stripped wire in the jug is enough to get started. It's been a while, but I don't even remember using any peroxide. I think I just put the acid in a large storage bin, gently sloshed it around for a while to try and get a bit of oxygen dissolved, put it back in the jug along with a handful of wire, and left it alone for a week.

[Anonymous No.2353552]

>>2353450
Should I go for an air bubbler too? Also arguably I could make ferric chloride (or sulfate) the same way, and just use a copper cathode and iron anode back in it to turn it back to ferric chloride after etching. But that may not work if there are insoluble bits, which may be the case.

Also turns out the garden store stopped selling solid CuSO4 bluestone and now they only have liquid stuff with unknown constituents. I'll buy some stuff online instead because that MSDS says it contains some sort of copper ammonium complex. Because sulfuric acid is important anyhow.

[Anonymous No.2354303]

>>2353552
>Should I go for an air bubbler too?

I just have another cap from a milk jug that I drilled a hole in, so I can stick the tube from the aquarium pump into the solution. I was a little wary about using a stone because I was worried the acid would dissolve some or all of it (depending on what the binder is) and contaminate the etchant. Seems to work fine without it. You only need to aerate the solution for a few minutes, I find. It won't seem to do much, but the etchant will turn back to its usual emerald green as it sits afterward. Excessive aeration will just evaporate a bunch of the HCL.

In addition, the cap also has a second hole for a tube that vents the fumes into a plastic jar full of sodium carbonate (bicarbonate? I can't remember which I used, either works). Might be a little excessive, but it's easy and dirt cheap. Not necessary if you aerate it outdoors. I only really did it because I made a nice fuckup that resulted in a third of my tools being coated in a good layer of rust, and figured I shouldn't take any chances after that.

[Anonymous No.2354333]

>>2354303
>a third of my tools being coated in a good layer of rust
kek. ive done the same thing before. itd be a good time to experiment with rust bluing. boil some of those rusty tools in water, anon.

[Anonymous No.2354510]

Anyone here tried to use a Buchner funnel with a little brushless DC air pump? Sounds stupid but I might as well ask.

[Anonymous No.2354538]

>>2338863
He said heptane dumbass

[Anonymous No.2354748]

>>2354538
Solvent wise they're basically the same thing. You would evaporate and incinerate heptane exactly the same way you would hexane

[Anonymous No.2356904]

>page 10
I don't have anything to add but would like to keep this thread up just incase some question pops into my mind that isn't easily searchable.

[Anonymous No.2356968]

>>2352248
>Gonna buy some copper(II) sulfate today and try it instead
Well it's arrived, and I've started dissolving it in distilled water for making H2SO4, but I decided to google whether copper(I) sulfate is soluble, and it isn't. It decomposes in water in fact. Copper(I) chloride on the other had is soluble and stable. So there is no good equivalence between copper chloride and copper sulfate as etchants. Not that I won't give it an attempt after acidifying it, which may increase solubility. A complexing agent like ammonia or thiourea could help too.

Looking at iron sulfate etchant next, looks like iron(III) sulfate is very soluble while iron(II) sulfate is only somewhat soluble. This concentration issue may limit its ability to etch quickly if it means I have to run a dilute etchant, but if it produces a precipitate that will naturally redissolve as iron(II) in solution is re-reduced it shouldn't be too much of an issue.
With iron(III) sulfate I'd plunge the copper board into it, wait for it to etch, and then re-electrolyse it with a copper cathode and iron anode.

When my ceramic dish arrives I'll attempt to make relatively pure HCl and NaOH from salt with it and make myself some ferric and/or cupric chloride to try etching with. The local merchants don't sell FeCl3, and the hardware store HCl is awfully impure, and I don't have a distillation setup to purify it.
>inb4 make chlorine gas and bubble it through water full of iron or copper powder

[Anonymous No.2358532]

>>2356968
Ok so I'll do a series of etching experiments. I'll have solutions of the metal cations:
>nothing
>iron (III)
>copper (II)
the anions:
>chloride
>sulfate
and the pHs:
>2
>4.5
>7
and I'll test how those 18 solutions dissolve copper to an added
>0.0001mol/L
>0.01mol/L
>1mol/L
and possibly some values in between, measuring the time it takes for complete dissolution. I'll likely do this with a single one of each of the 18 solutions and just progressively add copper to be etched once they finish the first lot. I'll do it on a very small scale (~10mL of each) and it will involve my impure HCl. I'll be ignoring air bubbling as I suspect that won't make a difference to the reaction speed of very small amounts of copper, just to the saturation level.

I think I'll make a spreadsheet to organise it all.

[Anonymous No.2358563]

>>2358532
wow holy shit these pH papers are ass
>use paper on solution that should be ~0.6mol/L H2SO4
>get pH "2"
>dilute by factor of 10
>get pH "2"
>dilute by factor of 10
>get pH 3-4
>dilute by factor of 10
>get pH 5-6
>dilute by factor of 10
>get pH 6
>test distilled water
>get pH 6
what the fuck
i'll just have to trust that my solution is actually 0.6mol/L

[Anonymous No.2358656]

I have to think for a chemistry project for school but i cant think of any, help me bros

[Anonymous No.2358677]

>>2358656
What kind of level are we talking about? High school final year? University year 1, 2, etc.? What kind of equipment and materials do you have access to?
I'd say things on Cody's Lab's channel are (with the exception of refining uranium) high-school level since they're not overly quantitative or obsessed with purity, and tend not to involve obscure glassware. He does things like precious metal refining. Nile Red's channel tends to have more involved processes. His projects tend to be about a multi-reaction pathway required to turn feedstock materials into a novel chemical, which is what I'd lean towards for a university project.

If it's a "do with stuff you have lying about the house" project, I'd lean towards electrochemistry (Scrap Science's channel) and simple redox. If you have access to good glassware then I think I'd look towards some sort of reaction + distillation, like making RFNA or azeotropic H2SO4. Either for its own purpose, or for making highly nitrated and oxidised compounds (Explosions & Fire's channel).

Is it sufficient to just copy some existing chemical method/pathway, or is it a requirement for there to be at least some sort of a novel spin? Interesting spins may include:
>using things that can be found on the moon/mars/asteroid
>carbon neutral / sequestering
>using technology of ____ year
>with a new catalyst
>optimised to be lightweight and portable
>safe and non-toxic
>applied to a modern issue
>targeting a new market

If you deliberately want to tackle poorly understood chemistry, there's that explosive bismuth compound that E&F found, and there's also the production of nitrates from ammonia using a copper carbonate catalyst that Scrap Science showed once.

t. retard

[Anonymous No.2358861]

Need a recipe for Hypercolor fabric dye. This is for a very important mission. Please halp.

[Anonymous No.2359432]

>>2358677
thanks for the elaborate answer anon, i actually possess some experience in practical organic and i have a lab with pretty good equipments
i checked cody, nile, nurd and many other and even made a list but my teacher is going a little meh on the organic syntheses
here are my ideas:
>Thermite, with % yields
>Effectiveness of transition metal catalysts in the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide
>synthesis of a compound (i cant find which one tho, hydrazine sulfate would be good i guess) with different methods and compare the purity
>quercitin extraction from onion

[Anonymous No.2359453]

>>2358861
Picrel is the compound i found, and looking at it's structure I'd say good fucking luck. Plus according to Wikipedia there's other chemicals mixed with it to make it work, plus it's applied to fabric in the form of transparent micro capsules.

[Anonymous No.2359539]

>>2333038
>Vaseline
I know greasing the joints when distilling sulfuric is pointless since it just eats the grease anyway. You can seal it with acid though or let it self seal with the vapors.

[Anonymous No.2359904]

>>2359453
>transparent micro capsules
the one thing that stopped me from making my own E-ink. I still haven't figured out a way of doing that at home.

[Anonymous No.2360452]

>>2359453
>>2359904
>transparent micro capsules
Tretinoin microsphere process? I'm a retard, not a chemist. Could certain size nanoparticles pass through the microsphere membrane?

[Anonymous No.2360826]

>>2360452
I'm a bigger retard, not a normal retard. My brain automatically reverts to the macro scale when trying to imagine how they make these microcapsules.

>Could certain size nanoparticles pass through the microsphere membrane
what would stop them from coming back out then, eh?

[Anonymous No.2360838]

>>2360826
>In simplest terms, microspheres are formed through a quasi-emulsion solvent diffusion method. An organic internal phase consisting of drug, ethyl alcohol, polymer, and triethyl citrate (TEC)/trichloromethane is introduced to an external phase of distilled water and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) that is allowed to emulsify and then is continuously stirred for two hours. This mixture is then filtered to obtain the microsponges.15 Another way of synthesizing microspheres is free radical suspension polymerization.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3100111/

>what would stop them from coming back out then, eh?
Protein binding? I don't have a clue, really. Just throwing shit at the wall in the hopes someone who knows what they're doing might have an epiphany and tell their secrets to retards like me.

[Anonymous No.2360881]

>>2338228
Pyrolysis, plastic -> oil

[Anonymous No.2361011]

>>2338228
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BfjaVbLb8I

[Anonymous No.2362023]

>>2332732
whats a good shopping list for some DIY chemistry? i need flasks stoppers, tube, etc.
thinking of ordering some sulfur powder, sodium hydroxide, magnesium, zinc.. apparently you can straight up buy KNO3 on amazon, always wanted some of that. anything other basics I should stock up on as far as equipment, ingredients?

[Anonymous No.2362025]

>>2332787
>save 2 gallons of piss
>let them evaporate
>add bottle of pool chlorine

[Anonymous No.2362027]

>>2334277
https://www.geigercounters.com/

[Anonymous No.2362256]

>>2362023
Sulfuric acid, sulfuric acid, and more sulfuric acid; you can't get enough of that amazing stuff. In terms of glassware, distillation equipment is important because you can't really make your own Liebig condenser or glass joints. Don't forget a water pump for the condenser, aquarium pumps work fine. Mason jars can be used as reaction vessels as long as you're very careful when heating, though if you're willing to spend the money then a set of good beakers is worth it. Hotplate is important too, though you can just get a cooking hotplate off of Amazon for like thirty or forty dollars. Reagent bottles will be useful, though i found some one pint polyethylene milk bottles that work really well for that purpose. Small things include a thermometer, scale/balance, and a graduated cylinder. With all that you can do a significant amount of basic chemistry.

[Anonymous No.2362325]

>>2362256
>Sulfuric acid, sulfuric acid, and more sulfuric acid
No love for muriatic acid? Where the fuck can I find sulfuric acid anyway?

[Anonymous No.2362337]

>>2362325
literally just comes in barrels bro

[Anonymous No.2362932]

>>2362025
That's how you make deadly explosives
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mV_daaldE_I

[Anonymous No.2362963]

>>2362932
dude you really need to raise your bar
this video is so american, its almost funny. almost.

[Anonymous No.2363107]

>>2362325
You can make muriatic acid from sulfuric acid anyway. Where i live you can buy sulfuric acid from Walmart by the half gallon

[Anonymous No.2363513]

>>2362963
Do Ozzys really?

[Anonymous No.2364703]

How good are cheap digital scales for chemistry?

[Anonymous No.2364724]

>>2332732
How do I make zyklon B in my garage? You know. For the meme

[Anonymous No.2364788]

Got my cathodes coiled into shape for maximal current, the copper spirals can be both temporary anodes or harvesting cathodes, my inert platinum anode is not shown. The loop of rolled up aluminium foil was made with the thought that I won't get metal plating onto an aluminium cathode and get H2 gas instead. If that doesn't work I'll use the crucible. Hope it can handle negative pH values haha.

[Anonymous No.2365456]

Please bare with me, I don’t know much about chemistry.

Long story short I’m anodizing titanium knife scales, it’s trial and error so I want to strip the poorly done ones easily.

Lots of people use Whinks rust remover and the videos show it completely and violently stripping in 2 seconds. The data sheet says 1-2.5% hydroflouric acid by weight.
I’m not gonna lie, I’ve googled the handling of hydroflouric acid and it’s not pretty.

1-2% is pretty dilute but I’m still not sure about playing with it.

Is there a safer acid that would strip Ti anodize?
Maybe just dilute it more since it already works so fast?

I mean the shit says just rinse it down the drain but I’m still a bit worried about it

[Anonymous No.2365460]

you guys might like this
https://sci-hub.se/https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/(SICI)1521-3773(19980904)37:16%3C2217::AID-ANIE2217%3E3.0.CO;2-D
you can make high concentrate hydrogen peroxide with this

[Anonymous No.2365541]

>>2365456
I haven't worked with titanium much, but i would think that any mineral acid would work, like hydrochloric or sulfuric acid. Both are safer than hydrofluoric acid.

[Anonymous No.2366075]

>boil down electrolytically produced H2SO4
>aiming for 20mL which should be about 25% by weight
>get 3.5mL instead
>implying it's over 90% and I boiled away a shit ton of acid without my pH paper changing colour in the vapour
Ok so either the boiling acid reacted with my stainless steel pot, or I never had 0.064mol of acid. I think I need to perform some sort of titration on 0.5mL of the stuff, which I'll need to look into thoroughly. But since I don't have any indicator fluids I guess I'll try to do it with something else that changes with pH. Like bubbling from a sodium bicarbonate buffer solution, or dropping some salt out of solution, or whatever.

Should probably buy some beakers and do it again, since my acid is now a tad brown.

[Anonymous No.2367711]

>tracking says ceramic dish gets returned to seller
>for the second time
>dispute
>get money back
>dish arrives a few days later
guess i came out on top that time huh

[Anonymous No.2368394]

Anyone here ever try to /diy/ an HPLC, GC, or other analytical equipment? Or try refurbing any? Seems like the secondary market is pretty slim pickings.
>>2362023
As with most /diy/ things, it depends what you want to do. Some basic demonstration shit like elephant toothpaste, clock reactions, and starch identification with iodine is readily available at your local hardware, farm supply, or grocery store.
Here's a decent demo for clock reactions, which is really just iodine starch identification with more steps.
https://youtu.be/xLCDJ0m_qrk

[Anonymous No.2368395]

>>2358861
Just buy a phthalonitrile dye, bro.

[Anonymous No.2368466]

How do I make meth, for educational purposes only?

[Anonymous No.2368468]

>>2368466
>>>/b/

[Anonymous No.2368469]

>>2368468

this is a chemistry thread, no?

[Anonymous No.2368472]

>>2368469
Read the OP:
>for drugs go to /b/
You get banned pretty quick for talking about that kinda shit here. I would know, got two weeks for even entertaining an academic conversation about making nerve gas.

If you ask about on /b/ maybe someone will direct you somewhere. Or /pol/, maybe making and selling meth is a way of contributing towards the white genocide.

[Anonymous No.2368606]

So in more recent times, I'm seeing quite some papers being written using mechanochemical methods to produce all sorts of stuff and I've think it's a very interesting technique due to it's extreme simplicity. Some reactions can be made using only mortar and pestle and there's no solvent involved. Has anyone here ever tried it? I'll like to hear about it.
>>2344198
Old diesel engines were capable on running on straight up cooking oil. When Rudolf first presented his engine I think he used peanut oil or something like that. Maybe you can chance the injectors or add a heater to the tank and have the engine run on that? Could even try filtering used oil and burn it for maximum cheapness.
>>2368394
Simply not worth it. They're way too expensive to maintain and you need very pure solvents in order to use them. During the coronahoax the pump on my uni's GC dieded due it lack of maintenance and now we're left with a stupidly high bill to fix it and it seems it ain't gonna be happening very soon, and this is a proper uni we're talking about here. No way the average amateur can have one of these.
But analysis is important so my advice would be going for spectrometry, in particular UV-Vis as you can use it for both qualitative and quantitative analysis. It can't DIY the equipment itself but it is much cheaper than those you mentioned and there's basically no running costs. Small industries like it, along with IR, because of that and those small businesses sometimes go broke and sell their stuff so you might get lucky.
>>2364703
Depends on what you're doing and precise you need to be.

[Anonymous No.2368608]

>>2368395
Where do you buy pterodactyl dye? I want to pump some hypercolor jizz into aerogel vagene.

[Anonymous No.2368625]

>>2368606
Corporate auction seems the only option for any analytical equipment, other than simple stuff like titrations or cheaper UV-vis. I can only assume that their former competitors will have deeper pockets than any home chemist at these places though. It's sad because my workplace has like four HPLCs from the 90s that they're planning on cannibalizing, and I don't think they'll sell the leftovers on the secondary market, or gift it to a university. 10:1 they'll become scrap.

[Anonymous No.2368634]

>>2368625
UV would be great for amateur use, I quite like how much you can do with such a simple thing. You're just limited by weather your not your analyte is active on it or not.
Voltametric stuff would be the next in line, but I have pretty much zero experience with them. Maybe you could nigger rig something like that? The problem is that it is even more limited in terms of what kind of stuff you can use on it.

[Anonymous No.2368638]

>>2368625

Because columns are very expensive besides the ultra pure reagents needed for the mobile phases in hplc. No one who had a clue about hplc would bother with anything other than nanopure reagents otherwise the data will be useless and the instrument will ben destroyed. What's the point running one at home? None, they're tools for research or business with deep pockets

[Anonymous No.2368657]

>>2368634
Yeah I suppose UV and Beer's Law can give most people a good idea on concentrations. If a decent analytical chemist has access to a decent UV software, they can probably even get a rough idea of impurity profiles based on absorption alone.
Voltametric analysis is really nice for inorganics, but I honestly don't have too much experience with those. I assume many hobbyists work on things like electroplating or metallurgy, so that does sound useful to those guys.
>>2368638
>tfw work at a company with very, very deep pockets
I suppose knowing the purity with a high degree of accuracy is unnecessary for most hobbyist use, but the need for ultra high purity solvents for elution is really overstated. As long as you're consistent and can run a blank, they don't need quite the purity that you seem to think.

[Anonymous No.2369761]

>>2368634
Is this UV spectrometry? I think spectrometry in general could be relatively easy to home-brew, using a selection of different light sources, a selection of diffraction gratings, and a CCD/CMOS sensor.

[Anonymous No.2369849]

>>2369761
I imagine if you use a full spectrum light bulb and /diy/ a monochromator using a blank CD and a couple electric motors, you could have an alright UV setup for pennies. Or just buy one of the shitty ones that universities let their undergrads grab.

[Anonymous No.2369859]

>>2369761
Oh and EFNMR. I've seen some relatively easy looking circuits that implement nuclear magnetic resonance spectrometry, and while they mainly all target water, I bet you could just tune the frequency and/or magnetic field strength to target other atoms or molecular bonds or whatever. Doesn't work on some atoms though, IIRC.

>>2369849
>a full spectrum light bulb
>you could have an alright UV setup for pennies
What kind of full spectrum light bulb does UV? Wouldn't you need something like a mercury lamp or UVB LED?
>a blank CD
Blank DVD might be better. But either way you get that layer of polycarbonate in your way causing its own diffraction and absorption, the former might be a significant barrier for UV considering how those plastics often absorb short wavelengths. Silver dipped gecko tape might work well enough.
>a couple electric motors
More than one? You wouldn't need any at all if you used a camera sensor as the sensitive element. A motor would be used with something like a photodiode. Ideally a photodiode with bare silicon visible to prevent the plastic interfering or diffracting. Or a germanium photodiode, might get down to 0.3eV assuming they exist.

I'd really like to build a free electron laser and have a real tuneable light source. I'd get radiation hazards, high voltage hazards, and blindness hazards all rolled into one. I think the vacuum chamber would be the worst part.

>Or just buy one of the shitty ones that universities let their undergrads grab
Like the $4k models on aliexpress? I'd like to see a teardown of one.

[Anonymous No.2370258]

>>2369859
>Like the $4k models on aliexpress? I'd like to see a teardown of one.
Quick Google search shows one available for $1300. Probably usable for your typical hobbyist, if not professional chemistry work - thing uses just a filter wheel instead of a true monochromator.
>https://www.flinnsci.com/flinn-scientific-spectrophotometer/ap7026/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6pOTBhCTARIsAHF23fKes5gJ4vx7OUuFLIkQNavBfE2LOKHlDtTKqqkJkIa4OLINLEl_gKUaAiUdEALw_wcB
>What kind of full spectrum light bulb does UV? Wouldn't you need something like a mercury lamp or UVB LED?
Good point, I'd need to see if there is any available UV to IR spectra bulbs available on the commercial market.
>More than one? You wouldn't need any at all if you used a camera sensor as the sensitive element. A motor would be used with something like a photodiode. Ideally a photodiode with bare silicon visible to prevent the plastic interfering or diffracting. Or a germanium photodiode, might get down to 0.3eV assuming they exist.
I suppose one would only need the one for the reflective surface. Like you had mentioned though, that polycarbonate film might blur your spectra something awful; I hadn't considered that portion of it. But yes, I was considering a photodiode, I suppose camera sensors have come down in price at this point in time where one could get some cheap programmable ones for pennies compared to traditional UV systems.
>I'd really like to build a free electron laser and have a real tuneable light source. I'd get radiation hazards, high voltage hazards, and blindness hazards all rolled into one. I think the vacuum chamber would be the worst part.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I've always assumed that both LED and gas lasers only operate in certain banding spaces. It's been a while since I've done any electronic materials work.

[Anonymous No.2370274]

>>2370258
>LED and gas lasers only operate in certain banding spaces
That's right, they only have a certain range between which their gain can be above 1. Dye and crystal lasers too. To some extent you can use frequency filtering optics to select for a different operating frequency within that range, but in general that range is narrow enough that you'd need like 15 different lasers to cover the full spectrum from UV to IR.
Free electron lasers are the exception, since they have no particular excitation mode at all, they just emit light from cyclotron radiation that's redshifted from the electron's own relativistic velocity. So by changing the energy/velocity of the electron you can tune it to any wavelength you could want, be it x-rays or infrared. Don't think anyone has built a microwave FEL, because the longer the wavelength the more difficult it is to manufacture.

[Anonymous No.2370297]

>>2362325
walmart. get pic related and it's great most amateur purposes. i can't remember the exact value, but i measured its concentration via density at somewhere between 91 and 93% w/w. crystal clear, no visible impurities.

[Anonymous No.2370298]

>>2370297

[Anonymous No.2370304]

also for anyone discussing DIY or at-home instrumentation, i've been meaning to do this for the past few years (too lazy/busy.)

https://e-publishing.cern.ch/index.php/CIJ/article/download/799/577/3552

[Anonymous No.2370331]

>>2370304
>all those complex shapes
>in openscad
absolute masochists
Aside from the 3D printer it's an $840 project, which is pretty decent. Bet shipping would cost a bunch for all of those optical components, especially to a backwater island like where I am.

[Anonymous No.2370495]

Furan resin update: i tried to use magnesium sulfate to remove water from the supposed furfural, but most of the liquid got absorbed and the little bit remaining dissolved a fair amount of magnesium sulfate (which I'm pretty sure furfural isn't supposed to do). I'm starting to suspect the seperated layer i thought was water is actually furfural and the furfural was actually water. Either way I'm thinking of just boiling a sample of both layers to see if any furfural remains behind. Any other ideas on how i could figure out which one has my product?

[Anonymous No.2370529]

>>2370495
Furfural itself looks kinda polar so maybe you'd be better off dissolving it in alcohol or DCM, then pouring it off from salt saturated water. Better, use a separatory funnel. Properly salted water should push the Furfural out of the water and into the polar organic solvent. The wikipedia article says it's only sparingly soluble in water, which I'm assuming is because it's too polar with its hydrogen bonds, so adding a salt and shaking should make it even more polar and get it out. But it's also not soluble in alkanes, suggesting it won't dissolve in non-polar solvents, which I don't really have any intuition for.

What unreacted reagents or side-products might you need to get rid of besides water? Because using differential solubility to get rid of those would help a lot I bet. Here's hoping you don't have any tar.

[Anonymous No.2370967]

>>2370529
I used salt to try and seperate it from water, but i didn't think to use alcohol with the salt. I thought about dcm but all the paint strippers i have found nearby are not dcm. The distillate was surprisingly clean with minimal tar, so that's not an issue. And the whole alkane thing screwed me over the first time i tried this, because i stupidly assumed it would dissolve in alkanes so i tried to extract it with heptanes. I threw the water away only to realize nothing was dissolve in the solvent. That's why this time i kept both layers. I'm considering using ether too, so I'll just have to see what happens

[Anonymous No.2372024]

I bought a decent amount of glassware and lab equipment to make drugs, made them, now I want to find some other/legitimate uses for this equipment. The best thing I can think of so far is making less illegal drugs for friends without insurance, so that's not much of an improvement. Electroplating and board etching are on the list too but they don't really utilize much more than a container, so it doesn't feel like it "counts". Most of the stuff I see just seems so impractical or academic, which is cool or whatever but it just feels so pointless to me when it's something I can buy for barely more money, or isn't applicable to much. Maybe making dyes could be good for me, where could I start to really learn what I'm doing in that department? I'd be more interested in fancy and technical stuff like you'd see on high end clothes, color changing stuff, temperature sensitive, "metallic nylon" (I'm assuming that's accomplished in the dying stage of making the garment), stuff like that. I'll also listen to any other suggestions for things I can make that are practical to use and difficult to buy, I have a variety of interests and pick new things up.

[Anonymous No.2372029]

>>2372024
Can you make ivermectin? Depending on where you are there's a big market for that.

[Anonymous No.2372236]

I'm doing bromine synthesis via electrolysis as a new project but facing trouble finding graphite rods for the electrodes, are there any other sort of materials I can use which will act almost equally good

[Anonymous No.2372307]

>>2372236
What kind of graphite rods have you tried so far?

[Anonymous No.2372361]

>>2372236
I was hoping to try glassy carbon for projects like that, but unfortunately i hit a bit of a snag trying to make it

[Anonymous No.2372450]

>>2372236
Does platinum work? I'd try to use a graphite crucible as the anode with the solution inside it.

[Anonymous No.2372526]

I was bored and ran a magnet through dirt and collected all the metallic black bits. Is there anything cool I can do with it besides just move it around a piece of glass with a magnet?

[Anonymous No.2372530]

>>2372526
How about trying to identify what metals you've got yourself there, and trying to isolate them from one another, then smelting a pellet of each.

[Anonymous No.2372539]

>>2372526
Make a cast-iron skillet and hit somebody in the noggin with it.

[Anonymous No.2372959]

>>2372526
Go meteor hunting, since meteors contain enough native iron to be magnetic. Meteors contain higher amounts of platinum group metals than normal rocks

[Anonymous No.2373373]

where the fuck do you get DCM in the US, other than just ordering it online?
i'm down to my last can of old stripper. apparently the ban is only for DCM in paint stripper, but i can't find anything else that has DCM in it.

[Anonymous No.2373379]

>>2332732
how to purify fertilizer KNO3 ?
I need it for... reason

[Anonymous No.2373386]

>>2373379
It's really soluble in water, so giving it a wash with an organic solvent that isn't miscible with water would be my first attempt. Especially with a separatory funnel. But it depends on what kind of impurities you think are in there. If they're other salts you'll have to use more nuanced solubility rules, like dissolving it in enough ice-cold water to keep all the KNO3 in solution but keep other salts out.

[Anonymous No.2373448]

>>2373373
That's something I've been trying to figure out myself. If you're desperate enough you could try making chloroform; the synthesis is simple enough i hear it's very similar to DCM

[Anonymous No.2373454]

>>2373448
it's annoying because DCM boils off 20C lower than chloroform. you can boil it in warm water.
making DCM is practically unachievable for a home gamer. chloroform is easy.
big problem is chloroform reacts with bases, which then react with alkenes, and alcohols, and amines.

[Anonymous No.2373466]

What's DCM actually optimal for? Is it just the right balance of boiling point and polarity/dipole strength? Or are their other specs that aren't wholly dependant on those? Does something other than dipole strength determine solubility? That weird thing about some salts dissolving strongly in ethanol got me puzzled when I saw it on the calcium from bones video. One of the calcium from bones videos.

[Anonymous No.2373471]

>>2373386
thanks I'll try it
idk what impurities it have, it just say 60%

[Anonymous No.2373474]

>>2373471
Check the MSDS. I can imagine some anti-caking agents, maybe some ammonium salts or urea, maybe some sulfates. 60% is really pretty shit, but if that's all you can get I guess good luck.

[Anonymous No.2373610]

>>2373466
DCM is great for extracting organics from water, as it's a polar solvent but doesn't mix well with water. It is used to pull an organic substance from water where it then separates into a layer that can be drained off. Since it's volatile it can be evaporated off easily without too much risk of destroying the product with heat to leave behind a purified product

[Anonymous No.2373864]

>>2373610
>it's a polar solvent but doesn't mix well with water
Technically speaking, what causes this? Density? Molecular weight?

[Anonymous No.2373997]

>>2373466
>>2373864
Solubility is purely dependent on intermolecular forces and interactions.
In the case, that's not quite exactly solubility but works pretty much the same, of dissociation (like water with NaCl) you get Chatelier messing with the equilibrium as those often release energy, so unless your ions really don't want to stick together you get things like calcium hydroxide which is less soluble in hot water than it is on cold water.
Density only plays a role in buoyancy, if the two substances don't mix, and it's simply a consequence of Archimedes' principle.
Molecular weight has nothing to do with this stuff.

[Anonymous No.2374017]

>>2373997
>intermolecular forces and interactions
Is dipole strength the only thing that effects this? Because I think there are alcohols with weaker dipole strength than DCM but are miscible with water.

And I don't understand how a salt could be more soluble in a less polar solvent.

>Density only plays a role in buoyancy
I figure that there's a potential energy difference to be found between two fluids being fully mixed, and the denser fluid beneath. From what I understand, two mixed fluids are in a more desirable state from an entropic point of view if nothing else, but that also changes the gravitational potential energy. So substances that don't seperate out in microgravity may seperate out in 1g, or 100g, or whatever. Not that I expect that to be particularly significant in most situations, if at all with fluids that like other fluids more than themselves (i.e. do not form a suspension like milk does).
>Molecular weight has nothing to do with this stuff.
I was thinking a long chain molecule with the same dipole strength may act differently.

[Anonymous No.2374073]

what have u guys been working on

[Anonymous No.2374082]

>>2374073
circuit etching
the boards look pretty nice, i'll post once they're covered in solder mask

[Anonymous No.2374256]

>>2374082
That's neat. Do you mean thet etching done for integrated circuits, or some other type? What's your setup?

[Anonymous No.2374259]

>>2374256
let me clarify, it's just for pcbs
while arguably i could whip up a silicon exposure unit using an lcd and some camera lenses, it's a lot more complex for a very niche product that can only replace off-the-shelf silicon in some very rare instances

[Anonymous No.2374292]

>>2374082
Done. Hand painting is a bitch, but hopefully that will be a thing of the past since the red board is a boost converter designed to power an LCD lightbox's UVA backlight.

>>2374259
Then again, maybe I could actually make money selling custom 4-terminal MOSFETs, complimentary JFETs, those sorts of analog stuff. I'd buy aliexpress leadframes, stick the silicon chip to them somehow, do the wire-bonding, and blob JB weld over them.
>inb4 biodes

[Anonymous No.2374297]

Every damn post is someone suggesting you to get yourself lead poisoning, how can anyone trust anything on this thread; no, the whole board?

[Anonymous No.2374302]

>>2374297
If you're in a well ventilated area wearing the proper PPE and you're not making methylmercury, you're gonna be fine. If you don't have sufficient knowledge to know that what you're doing is safe, you should put down the beakers and brush up on that beforehand.

[Anonymous No.2374307]

>>2374297
the most important thing is to consider what the worst possible outcome is, and what you would do in that outcome. if you're not happy with handling the worst possible outcome, you should re-evaluate your method.

if you're, for example, distilling sulfuric acid, some risks could be that the glass could shatter, spraying boiling sulfuric acid over everything nearby, including you. what's your plan to handle that?

apply that to everything you do, start to finish.

[Anonymous No.2374309]

>>2374307
On that note, what kind of thermal shock can borosilicate glassware handle?

[Anonymous No.2374314]

>>2374309
a lot, but the thing is, shit happens. weird annealing in the glass, hairline fractures.
a relevant story comes to mind, from an organic chemist on the sciencemadness forums.

https://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=22554

[Anonymous No.2374319]

>>2374314
Holy shit. Guess I'm not buying chinkshit beakers after all. Unless the price is sufficiently low to buy from one or two sellers and somehow test them for boron content. Might buy a raspi camera and make myself that CD-diffraction spectrometer. Though using a spike and notch filter could make a raman spectrometer, which is probably more useful. An EFNMR may be cheaper though.

[Anonymous No.2374322]

>>2374319
i use deschem, which is chink shit. and it's fine.
the point is that you ought to prepare for the worst in this hobby. if the guy wasn't working with 50 grams of primary explosive (which is a fuckload), worst case is the glass breaks and there's a methanol fire.
spray with extinguisher, and problem is solved. yeah you've got extinguisher mess in your house, but you could just do it outside. or build a fume hood, or any number of things.

in industry, they work with all kinds of ridiculous chemicals, like fluorine gas, huge tanks of hot pressurized hydrogen, i mean fuck they make literal explosives and nerve agents by the ton.

you can work with stuff like this if you take the proper precautions. just be aware of this stuff. i went to college for chemical engineering and they non-stop hammer you about safety. just make sure you know the hazards of whatever thing it is you're trying to pursue, and come up with ways to mitigate that risk. "okay if this glass breaks, and a fire starts, that's the worst outcome, what do i do in that case?".

[Anonymous No.2374333]

I have a solution of water, acetone, and methanol.
I want the methanol, and I don't want a ketone in it.

Would it work to add sodium sulfite in sufficient excess to separate the layers, and simultaneously form the acetone sulfite adduct?
Then I can just drain off the water, boil the methanol (with some minor remaining acetone sulfite dissolved) to yield very pure methanol?

[Anonymous No.2374374]

>>2374017
There's more to intermolecular forces than dipoles. Small alcohols are soluble because their hydroxyle can form hydrogen bonds with water. Do note that I said small alcohols, your last point is correct because the longer you make the organic portion of the alcohol the less soluble it will be with water because the hydrocarbons don't interact much with it but they take up space, making it harder for the water and hydroxyle to approach each other. The chlorides in DCM will pull electron density towards themselves but they're not strong enough to pull enough electron density in order to form hydrogen bonds, they will form poles but not strong enough for that. There will be some interactions that way but it's not significant enough. The other pole is also a problem, the carbon can pull electronic density from the hydrogen but then it gets pulled by the chloride so all that area of lower electronic density is spread out among all three atoms and you don't get a proper pole that interact effectively with the oxygen in water.
Tackling your second point about entropy, things want to assume the form that has the least energy, the most stable form. Water bonds very well with itself, it's geometry helps make it possible for all water molecules to make all of it's three bonds with the the three atoms nearby and that stabilises it a lot. Adding a DCM molecule in the middle would screw with that, as now the water around that molecule can't form more stable interactions with other water molecules are instead forced to make less strong interactions with the DCM. You can think of this the same way you would think of impurities on crystals, the more of them you have the more imperfect the crystals will be and so the easier it is to melt them.

[Anonymous No.2374377]

>>2374333
Fractional distillation. Just run it twice or thrice.

[Anonymous No.2374543]

>>2374082
Chemistry buffs, how do you figure out an extraction process for a given solution or substance?

For example, let's say I have some toothpaste and want to extract the Sodium bicarbonate. How do you figured out what to mix with it to do the extraction? Is there some chemistry to read that tells you a general way to figure out extraction for any element / compound in any substance?

[Anonymous No.2374686]

>>2374543
First of all you need to know what kind of stuff you have mixed in whatever you have, without that it's all a shot in the dark.
Knowing that you'll look at the stuff you've got in there and their properties and you'll look at which ones are different enough for you to explore and get them apart with. For example the guy a few posts from you wants to separate some liquids which are all polar. Their boiling points are 100°C for water, 65°C for MeOH and 56°C for acetone, right off the bat you see you can get the water out using simple distilation, with it's boiling point being well above that of the others. The other two are a bit harder, with just this information you can try fractional distillation and hope those ~10°C difference is enough, that'd probably be the simplest way and would probably work well enough for the bulk of it.
Or in your example, you can probably get rid of most of the organic stuff in toothpaste by dissolving it in water and then filtering it out. Then you probably get a mixture of salts some of which you can simply precipitate out with by adding some acid and maybe then removing the water and letting your bicarbonate crystals form.
Overall you need a good understanding of the properties of everything you're working with and of all the extraction and purification techniques there are, and then you just try to find one that fits your needs.

[Anonymous No.2376284]

>>2374333
>>2374377
You do need quite a good column for this, the boiling points of acetone and methanol are quite close, and they form an azeotrope, check 10.1021/je980230h. Depending on the relative amounts of water, methanol and acetone simply distilling won't do. Resolving a 10 K difference in boiling point is fairly difficult even with a good column and control of the reflux ratio.
There might be another way to improve separation by distillation, however. If you add some more water and calcium chloride into your solution the calcium chloride should complex with the water and methanol, decreasing their volatility and making it easier to distill the acetone out. The collect the methanol fraction and redistill it again to separate it from the water.

In any case it would almost certainly be cheaper to just buy new methanol. Ketones are annoying to remove from them completely, and methanol should be readily available.

[Anonymous No.2376588]

Any good options for a vacuum pump, for filtration, that isn't insanely loud? Something I can use in my apartment without worrying about being a nuisance.

[Anonymous No.2376604]

>>2376588
Sprengel pumps are probably too slow, but you could make one work with water and get a decent minimum pressure.

Modifying a foot-pump for bike tubes could probably provide enough airflow, but I can't say how easy it would be to make that modification.

[Anonymous No.2376636]

>>2376604
It doesn't have to be silent, noise is fine it just has to be something that is tolerable through fairly thin walls for small amounts of time. I'm just judging normal pumps based on videos I've seen and air compressors I've used in the past, and assuming they're similar. If I went the pump route, they make hand pumps that might fit the bill, but I'd prefer something I don't have to manage that actively unless someone can convince me they're not that bad.

[Anonymous No.2376646]

>>2376636
Ideally it would only take a few minutes of occasional pumping, but if it takes 10+ minutes or you're constantly pumping to keep the pressure up, yeah an air pump wouldn't be ideal. I suspect a high displacement low speed pump would be quieter, that or something that isn't oscillating. A gear pump is probably pretty quiet due to the balance, but those are likely expensive and I don't know how well they pump air.

[Anonymous No.2376666]

>>2376588
There are a few options. Many people start off with hand pumps as they come with vacuum filtration kits sometimes. I think they are used for cars normally.

You can also buy 12V chinese membrane pumps on ebay, but some are really noisy and others aren't, it's hit or miss with them. But they survive fairly corrosive enviroments and last a while.

Water aspirators can also be a good option if you make sure the exiting water stream doesn't hit the sink or walls like a big drum. Something like a closed-loop system like NurdRage did it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYLlkTDstmo
These can reach fairly low pressures and are quite resistant to chemicals. So they are suited for vacuum distillation.

If you want to go overkill, there are professional membrane pumps for filtrations on the secondary market like pic related. For all intents and purposes these are silent, but they might cost you a bit.

[Anonymous No.2376670]

>>2376646
>>2376666
This is all helpful, thanks! I'll see if a hand pump suits my needs and look towards options in the second post if that's not enough for me.

[Anonymous No.2376958]

Hi!
I need to dye starch grains intored, green and blue, which I want to get from CMY dyes, so that red is perfectly red, green is green, etc.
For yellow, tartrazine from the original Autochrome seems to be good enough, but I still need magenta and cyan. The dyes must be able to withstand the developing process without washing out of starch or degrading. Also, they should not cost like a kidney. Any suggestions. Anon?
If there are dyes that can produce clean RGB without mixing them from CMY- I'd be even happier. The original recipe uses orange, green and violet, which isn't exactly RGB

[Anonymous No.2376972]

>>2376958
Initially I wanted to use dyed polymer microspheres, but shit's too expensive. If you know where to get cheap transparent dyed microspheres with 1-5 micrometers diameter-that would be perfect

[Anonymous No.2377074]

/chem/ doesn't appreciate pasta? All work and no play makes Jack a psychopath.

[Anonymous No.2377386]

>>2376958
What are you making, an E-ink display?
>I want to get from CMY dyes
>If there are dyes that can produce clean RGB without mixing them from CMY- I'd be even happier
I suspect you'd be better off looking at what textile dyers use. Be that on one of the more textile-based threads or boards, or a different site entirely. As for dyes specifically for starches, starches aren't generally considered water resistant materials anyhow so I doubt any dye meant for them wouldn't just be water-soluble for ease of application. I can see why you'd want to take a more abstract chemistry perspective, but unless someone here happens to be an expert on industrial dyes or the kind of thing you're trying to make with the starch beads (you'd be better off looking on reddit) you'd likely be best looking at existing dyes and modifying/purifying them as need-be. Shame that sort of specialist compound isn't available in sample-sized packs, unless dubiously pure plastic baggies from anonymous ebay sellers counts.

>The original recipe uses orange, green and violet, which isn't exactly RGB
Is there some issue with that? Are you dealing with some sort of CRI constraint, or otherwise are limited to certain wavelengths?

>>2377074
Slow board, even slower "general", and that pasta only well applies for mocking someone actually using one or two misremembered sayings. I didn't see any such statement in the original anon's post so it felt like a "haha look at this irrelevant joke i remembered for no reason". Which is also how I saw it the previous time someone posted it, the response to which was "but he said it properly" or words to that effect. Compare that to the shipping container bunker/submarine pasta, which is/was actively used to mock container bunker OPs, and served as a good balance between fun and mocking.

Plus that pasta is just kinda long and obnoxious to read through, I find ironic amogus memes funnier and at least they're not long-winded.

tl;dr this is the psychopath general

[Anonymous No.2377422]

>>2377386
>What are you making
Lumiere Alticolor, essentially
I don't need that much of water resistance, the whole processing time is ~20-30min. and the starch will be suspended in gelatine. But the dyes need to withstand ph of ~10 of the developer and potassium permanganate+sulfuric acid bleach
>Is there some issue with that
The color reproduction. If you look at autochromes and then at agfa farbenplatte, which is the same, but uses RGB instead of OGV, you'll notice that Agfa is significantly better

[Anonymous No.2377522]

>>2377386
>tl;dr this is the psychopath general
Let out a beef monster fart today at work (just after lunch/mid morning coffee). Legit lasted 2.5-3 seconds of just pure shit gas. Cheeks were flapping, low rumble into high toot with a splatter sound at the end. Was so loud my buddy 2 rooms down started laughing and immediately called me to confirm it was me. I owned up to it, because im not a bitch. I left my office space after that to get a drink/fill my water bottle. Stopped by another co-worker and spoke to him about random bullshit. Was gone maybe 3-4 minutes. When I got back to my space it still smelled. Never had a beef master last that long before.
Cutie who I work with walked by my office a short time after that. No way she didn't hear/smell the shart. Wearing a mask she gave me the look of disgust as she walked by (idgaf asserting my dominance). Gave her a nice rounding toot just out of earshot. High Pitched, short, and smelly. Im sure she got a whiff of it on the way back.

Anyway, did I infect everyone with corona?
Don't ban me, bro.

[Anonymous No.2377574]

what's the most efficient way of testing bulk amounts organic solvent (in my case, acetone) for water? those karl fischer titration tests are super expensive, plus i'm only looking to achieve to less than 5% water content (ideally 1–2%). i've tried hydrometers but those are pretty finicky.
also is there any way to use glycerin as a drying agent for acetone without it forming a weird emulsion?

[Anonymous No.2377729]

>>2377574
Throw in a chunk of sodium metal. If it does nothing then it's dry. If it begins rapidly corroding or explodes into flames then there is water present

[Anonymous No.2377839]

>>2377574
At that point I think I'd just chuck in a handful of molecular sieves, take them out, and heat them up in a sealed container to see how much condensation comes out.

Adding a fuckton of salt may get the water to seperate from the acetone.

[Anonymous No.2377854]

>>2377574
See the attached snippet from Amarego 6th ed concerning drying agents suitable for acetone.

>>2377729
I wouldn't expect this to be a good test. I'm sure alcohols would do something very similar. Finally I wouldn't be surprised if sodium reacts with acetone just by itself...

>>2377839
Molsieves aren't the best choice, see pic related. Measuring the weight loss pre- and post-reactivation of the sieves probably gives much better results than trying to catch the condensation. Also allows for more efficient drying.

[Anonymous No.2377973]

>>2377854
has boric anhydride fallen out of favor?
also, the efficiency aspect, what's considered "inefficient"? it can take up to 2 weeks to reach a (very nearly) anhydrous state. MgSO4 is okay, but it can only hold 7 water molecules while Na2SO4 can hold 10 (roughly 100% of MgSO4's weight and 120% of Na2SO4's weight). B2O3 can hold 78% of its weight as water, but i'm not sure if i got those calculations right.

[Anonymous No.2378098]

>>2377973
Interesting choice of using B2O3! It seems to work quite well according to the source you sent.
Pretty funny how the molsieves increase the water content.

The effiency in terms of weight of water per weight of drying agent usually doesn't really matter for the final drying step. Normally you would roughly predry the solvent by other means (say fractional distillation) such that the solvent only contains little water to start with before more powerful drying agents (usually more expensive) are used. What usually matters more is how much water they leave behind - it's an equilibrium after all.
Also while yes, technically sodium sulfate can form a decahydrate, it's certain that it will be useless as a drying agent way before that. I mean the decahydrate melts and loses water just slightly above room temperature which should give an idea of how weak the water is bound in it.

[Anonymous No.2378591]

>>2378098
>Also while yes, technically sodium sulfate can form a decahydrate, it's certain that it will be useless as a drying agent way before that. I mean the decahydrate melts and loses water just slightly above room temperature which should give an idea of how weak the water is bound in it.
yeah, it is pretty annoying. i'm running this in a closed loop though to lower the water content of wood though (using acetone as a media for the water), so i just have to make it more energetically favorable for the water to bind to NaSO4. i think, at least.

[Anonymous No.2378629]

Try this for desiccants
https://chemistry.mdma.ch/hiveboard/rhodium/equipment/dryingagent.html

[Anonymous No.2378642]

/chem/bros, I seent a touyube vidya about removing ligmalmao from wood to make it transparent. How to replace lignin with phosphorescent dyes that reacts to specific wavelengths of light?

[Anonymous No.2378671]

>>2378642
>remove lignin
>add phosphorescent dyes to resin
>infuse with resin using vacuum chamber

[Anonymous No.2378674]

>>2378671
I want to build a seaside fort from cut and shaped coral infused with translucent minerals like a monolithic stalagmite, and transparent wood windows that alert to the presence of very bad, very evil things in the air.
in minecraft

[Anonymous No.2378701]

>>2378674
how to make the structure a photovoltaic house o' mirrors?

[Anonymous No.2378734]

>>2332732
I wouldn't mind learning how to get gold out of rocks. It looks like someone sprinkled a bit of glitter on some bluestone

[Anonymous No.2378926]

>>2378734
>I wouldn't mind learning how to get gold out of rocks.
Step 1: Spot someone wearing gold jewelry.
Step 2: Sneak up and hit them on the head with a big rock.
Step 3: Take their gold.

[Anonymous No.2378943]

>>2341869
It would be easier to make it from cresote, by heating wood over 300°c in no oxygen, it begins to break down into lighter molecules. You'd get lots of phenol and phenol derivatives pretty easily

[Anonymous No.2378949]

>>2373373
should be able to react chloromethane with chlorine under sunlight and get a mix of DCM, chloroform, and carbon tet, although the whole thing sounds like a disaster waiting to happen
i guarantee there are patents describing the conditions needed, and whether it's possible to control which product gets primarily made

[Anonymous No.2379344]

>>2365456
You could try Transene Ti etch TFTN (muriatic)
Diluting will definitely make it safer but since HF is systemic toxicant there's no real "safe" amount. Still need to use proper procedure and PPE.

[Anonymous No.2379347]

>>2373373
Just make chloroform.

[Anonymous No.2379764]

https://www.acsh.org/news/2018/05/18/epa-ban-methylene-chloride-paint-strippers-science-or-scaremongering-12982
I think i found out why DCM is almost impossible to find now

[Anonymous No.2379775]

>>2379764
slowpoke.jpg

[Anonymous No.2380056]

oh no
that guy making his own ion transfer membranes is going to be livestreaming
as a catgirl vtuber

[Anonymous No.2380065]

this is the result of using the rust bluing formula from backyard ballistics YT channel:
copper sulfate + ferric chloride + hydrochloric acid.

i like the result, seen here on mild steel. what rust bluing formulas does DIY use?

[Anonymous No.2380896]

>>2380056
who

[Anonymous No.2381174]

>>2380896
threeee

[Anonymous No.2381311]

>>2380896
MysteriusBhoice

[Anonymous No.2381618]

Anyone have experience acquiring KCN (Potassium Cyanide) for electroplating? Obviously it's a rather difficult chemical to get due to the toxicity. Are Ali baba/ebay listings legit? Also do customs tend to restrict it? I'm in Norway and don't have any sort of chemist's licence. Alternatively is there a way to synthesize it without too much complication from chemicals that are easier to acquire? Most ways seem to require HCN (also hard to get).

[Anonymous No.2382074]

I hate trannies so much. All i wanted was to be able to freely explain chemistry terms to people, but NO... Now anytime i try to talk about cis and trans molecules no one will take me seriously because they assume I'm using tranny talk.
STOP STEALING WORDS YOU PERVERTED FREAKS. YOU WILL NEVER BE A REAL WOMAN

[Anonymous No.2382083]

>>2382074
yeah, next they're going to start saying light is bipolar

[Anonymous No.2382117]

>>2346461
Take cold medicine tablets. Mix in a bottle with lithium. (Cut open rechargeable batteries and unroll the metal inside). Put the lid on and shake that stuff up hard. Burp the air out every 30-60 seconds. Then it will dissolve leaving you some cheap but pretty strong crystal. Keep you awake for days. Mix in some red bull for flavor.

[Anonymous No.2382506]

>>2382117
You get way higher if you stick the lithium roll up your bunghole. Ask me how I know.

[Anonymous No.2383784]

>>2381618
http://www.sciencemadness.org/smwiki/index.php/Potassium_cyanide#Preparation

Chemist's license? What kind of fucking nazi bullshit is that? I hate this planet.

If you can't get a chemical for a reaction, go one step back and find out how to synthesize that chemical. If there's a bottleneck that you absolutely cannot get around, look for a different synthesis pathway.

I don't know how much KCN is necessary for electroplating but if it's a lot then synthesizing large amounts might be difficult.

If you are new to chemistry then be very careful, read about basic laboratory techniques and safety and be familiar with every chemical you lay your hands on and know exactly what the reaction will do. Wear proper protective equipment. You will probably also need a well ventilated area or outside with an exhaust fan. Or don't, breathe toxic fumes and die, I don't give a fuck.

[Anonymous No.2384027]

>>2381618
extract from apple seeds, cherry pips, etc.

[Anonymous No.2384759]

>>2378943
Do you know any efficient ways of separating phenol from the creosote? I know it usual involves fractionation but i don't have a column nor the time to run something like that.

[Anonymous No.2384794]

>>2384759
yes. You find a chemical supply house and buy it.

[Anonymous No.2384797]

>>2384794
Do I look like I'm made of money? Even when i found the stuff cheap on Alibaba the company wouldn't sell it to individuals, and besides shipping is absolutely fucked right now.

[Anonymous No.2386158]

>>2384797
you are an absolute fucking moron m8

[Anonymous No.2386218]

>>2386158
I'm a moron too. You're surrounded by morons.

[Anonymous No.2386463]

>>2382117
Don't be that guy.
>>2381618
I have never heard of a "chemist's license". There are certain chemicals that are regulated (in the US, don't know about EU) by one alphabet agency or the other, but it's usually not too difficult to either sidestep through reaction pathways, buying it in solution, or purchasing in small quantities.
As far as electroplating is concerned, is there a reason you can't run a weaker anion in solution? I assume you're doing this as a hobbyist, so just running the necessary salt solution should work for your use.

[Anonymous No.2387002]

dunno if i'm imagining it but i see oxone referenced in a lot of papers now, when i don't remember hearing about it at all in university.
it has good properties, like it's a strong oxidizer and fairly gentle for some reactions, plus it has good shelf stability. but, why do i see it being used in papers all the time now? what benefits does it have over things like permanganates? is it better? is it more "green" than ending up with manganese waste?

[Anonymous No.2387535]

I've got a hundred grams of iodine flakes. What can I do with them, other than making disinfection tinctures?

[Anonymous No.2387649]

>>2387535
Pretend they're corn flakes and eat them.
Stain things you don't like.
Rub them in your eyes.
Stick them up your bunghole.
Smoke them and inject them intravenously.

But seriously, make potassium triiodide lmao

[Anonymous No.2387870]

>>2387535
nitrogen triiodide

[Anonymous No.2387954]

>>2387535
Make iodoform solution so you can float heavy things. I had an idea once of using that to seperate copper hydroxide and nickel hydroxide via density

[Anonymous No.2388063]

>>2387870
>>2387649
I prefer to have my face be un-glass-sharded.

>>2387954
That sounds pretty cool. I can see that the density of iodoform (4.0) is almost that of titanium (4.5). That's crazy.

[Anonymous No.2388160]

>>2388063
potassium triiodide is for the milkies for the babbies.

[Anonymous No.2389287]

Might as well pumb.
>pumb
Just go ahead and pumb.
>pumb

[Anonymous No.2389882]

Could you use ethanol to make biodiesel instead of methanol? Everything I've read uses methanol, and yet theoretically ethanol should work too, right?

[Anonymous No.2389917]

when you're making a solution of a given concentration, say a 1 liter solution of 100g/L.
do you add the solvent to the solute to create that volume?

because if you had say, 1 liter of water, and then added 100 grams of salt, the volume is going to change somewhat.

[Anonymous No.2389918]

>>2389917
yes, that's what a volumetric flask is for

[Anonymous No.2389928]

>>2389918
but what if it's something that doesn't dissolve easily? like, a near saturated solution of sugar in water.
at 20C, you can dissolve a little over 200g of sugar in 100mL of water.

so, lets say you have 2kg of sugar and you want a final solution with a volume of 1 liter.

you have a very precise beaker which will measure it.

you have the 2kg sugar, and add water until it reads perfectly 1 liter, but the sugar is not all dissolved right now.

as the sugar dissolves, will the volume change? i know for example, when you mix 50mL ethanol and 50mL water you don't get 100 mL solution because of hydrogen bonding.
so would the correct method be to i guess, stir or heat the sugar-water solution until everything is dissolved in a slight deficit of your desired final volume, then add water until it is your desired final volume?

[Anonymous No.2389934]

>>2389928
>measure out almost 1L
>dissolve sugar
>pour into flask
>top off with the rest of the water
though I can't imagine you'd ever need a solution of precisely near the saturation point of a solute, at that point you might as well dump in excess and use the saturated solution.

[Anonymous No.2389935]

>>2389934
i agree in the sense that it's not really practical, you could just use excess solvent or an actually saturated solution or whatever.
just wondering if my understanding is correct.

[Anonymous No.2389941]

>>2339569
Pennzoil marine 2 cycle. I was running E10 with 1oz to every 5 gallons in a 2015 Fit. With a about 400lbs in the vehicle and a good bit of HWY driving I managed around 40+ mpg. Aircraft mechanic explained it so I'd adjust accordingly. Works as an octane booster too, obviously.

[Anonymous No.2391272]

where would be a good place to procure PETN primary charges?

[Anonymous No.2391290]

doing an experiment about determining presence of acetone in a solution through sodium nitroprusside.
i can get positive results down to ~0.5 wt% aqueous acetone.
however, i wanted to see how effective different methods of producing bisulfite adducts were at removing the acetone.

however, even a solution of sodium metabisulfite produces a positive ketone test with sodium nitroprusside.
i don't know precisely what is happening. maybe it's reducing the nitroprusside?
it's not a pH thing, because the pH of the metabisulfite solution is only around 6. and the strong positive reaction occurs even if i add a base to the metabisulfite.

[Anonymous No.2391504]

>>2391272
atf.gov and apply for a permit. They may even recommend you to some permitted vendors.
>>2387535
You could use it for any radical chemistry you want, anon. Maybe to cause an alkene to polymerize?

[Anonymous No.2391868]

I've been trying to find a way to produce copper sulfate CuSO4 without sulfuric acid, as that is relatively difficult to get in my country.
I have copper acetate or copper carbonate as a precursor.
I don't think threres a way to make it from double displacement via common sulfate salts like sodium sulfate
I thought I could use sodium bisulfate(toilet cleaner) to make it, though that contais a lot of additives and only slowly dissolves the copper so I'm not sure if it would really work. But if it does, how do I best seperate the copper sulfate from the sodium sulfate?

[Anonymous No.2392062]

>>2391868
Membrane electrolysis. See Scrap Science's video on making H2SO4 out of MgSO4 (epsom salts). Can also make it from NH4SO4 (fertiliser), which is even cheaper since you buy it in bulk. The result definitely won't be 100% pure, but it will be pretty good, and the extra cations won't hurt anything. If you want the calcium or ammonium fully removed, see the third paragraph.

With the soldium bisulfate, it's just a matter of electrolytically oxidising copper while reducing H+ into hydrogen gas. I'd do that with sulfuric acid too since copper is somewhat unreactive. Can probably get purer stuff if it's designed as a pool pH decreaser.

As for removing it from the sodium salt or other unwanted ions: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recrystallization_(chemistry)
You'll need to figure out a reaction pathway that has a significant difference in solubility between the copper salt and the spectator salt.

Also you can just buy copper sulfate. That's what I did because it's easier than making sulfuric acid.

[Anonymous No.2392214]

>>2347532
yo this sounds like fun, can I do this? I am a complete amateur but plating metals sounds cool.

[Anonymous No.2392230]

>>2392062
>You'll need to figure out a reaction pathway that has a significant difference in solubility between the copper salt and the spectator salt.
yeah that was the problem, both salts have very similar solubilities from what i could tell.

membrane electrolysis is an interesting idea but that seems to get very poor yields in an amateur setup, also i dont got a decent power supply

However i was thinkinh, ammonium sulfate is a lot more soluble so maybe that would work if i could get my hands on some copperII chloride
solubilities:
CuCl = 75g@rt per 100ml
CuSO4 = 22g
NH4SO4 74g
NH4Cl = 38g

so if i let evaporate a solution of copper chloride and ammonium sulfate, fairly pure cuso4 should crystallize since it is the least soluble product yes?

[Anonymous No.2393752]

What are some legal methods of making money with chemistry? I'm talking like a small home business kind of thing

[Anonymous No.2393768]

>>2393752
there aren't any, that would be competition with a corporation

but drugs are always in demand

[Anonymous No.2393904]

>>2393752
Craft soaps and candles are a classic. Electroforming or other electroplating can arguably be used to turn (3D printed) objects into neat metallic ones. Maybe hobby rocket motors and/or electric igniters, though I do wonder if you could sell them without a pyrotechnics license.

Also be a youtuber.

[Anonymous No.2393948]

I have a gram of sugar wax that's about 75% THC and nearly a quart of propylene glycol. How much PG should I dissolve the full gram into?

[Anonymous No.2394239]

>>2393948
Just eat it. Do it. Do it now.

[Anonymous No.2394659]

>>2394239
Nah. I want it to last a while.

[Anonymous No.2394855]

>>2394659
You'd be high for about 48 hours. lmao

[Anonymous No.2394980]

Posted this in metallurgy but you chemisty guys might also know a thing or two
>>2394978

[Anonymous No.2395071]

>>2394980
brass and zinc

[kuurst !!AOPFMcyarVQ No.2395075]

>>2395071
Alright I don't think I will use it then, the acid of the tea concentrate will probably cause an erosion of the zinc and increase zinc levels in body.

[Anonymous No.2395081]

>>2395075
Spray it with graphite and plate it with nickel-zinc or something.

[Anonymous No.2395143]

>>2395081
You can electroplate nickel onto zinc without graphite paint, can't you?

[Anonymous No.2395149]

>>2395143
Yeah, but the graphite will act like a primer so the finish looks nice and smooth. How do you plan on fixing the leaky pot?

[Anonymous No.2395449]

>>2395149
I'm not the pot anon. I'd solder/braze any gaps, sand, wire-wheel, and polish the base metal to get it smooth, and then plate it. A layer of carbon paint won't last nearly as long as metal-on-metal, because of differing thermal expansion.

As for electroplating itself, your surface finish highly depends on current density/uniformity, and on additives like leaveners and the like you add to the bath. The surface finish may also change between base metals, so if you have solder and brass next to one another you may get a different finish across the two, which is why I'd lean towards brazing rather than soldering.

[Anonymous No.2396788]

Anyone here know what the absolute cheapest way to manufacture simple metal salts is? Like if I wanted to make tin chloride or ferric chloride or silver nitrate and sell them on ebay, how would I create it? For now assuming I start off with the pure metal, though it's not necessarily the cheapest.

[Anonymous No.2396862]

>>2381618
Sauce on that image?

[Anonymous No.2397112]

>>2396788
For silver nitrate just add silver metal to nitric acid. Otherwise making most other metal salts just boils down to oxidizing it and adding it to the acid with the corresponding anion (oxidizing acids like nitric acid do both). For example if you wanted iron chloride just anodize the iron electrochemically so it turns into iron hydroxide and then add that to hydrochloric acid. Of course you would have a mixture of iron II and iron III, if you wanted only one oxidation state then you would have to use a more precise oxidation method.

[Anonymous No.2397693]

>>2397112
>add silver metal to nitric acid
Nitric acid isn't cheap though. Or even available for purchase where I live. I've seen some people make it electrochemically from nitrate salts, but I might as well try to just make silver nitrate electrochemically instead. Forced ion exchange can be done with electrochemistry and convection-blocking membranes, though to get good purity you need a proper ion exchange membrane. There's a catboy vtuber that makes his own ion exchange membranes.

[Anonymous No.2398631]

Any electrochemfag frens out there?

I have experience of running organic electroreductions in a divided cell (lead electrodes - high hydrogen overvoltage at the cathode)using unglazed porcelain (flowerpot basically) as a cell membrane. It works well, but the resistance is through the roof and lots of energy is lost as heat. This is not always pleasant especially if you need to keep temperature down.

Does anyone have experience with other materials to use as a cell membrane. Ideally it should allow for electron flow but not molecular flow.
I was thinking of tyvek. Tyvek is resistance against many chemicals, acids and bases, and it allows permeatibility of gases (like air), but not larger molecules (like water - hence its use as waterproof envelopes).

[Anonymous No.2398647]

>>2398631
Use the toilet, Apu.

[Anonymous No.2398660]

>>2398647
but the toilet is glazed porcelain? it needs to be unglazed

[Anonymous No.2398666]

>>2381618
chemist license? doesn't exist
of course alkali cyanides are poisons and to send that through mail it will be expensive.

You can synthesize KCN by reducing KCNO (potassium cyanate) with an excess of graphite powder at around 500°C .
The KCN can be extracted from that with hot water, then precipitated by flooding the cold filtrate with ethanol, cooling and filtering.

KCNO can be made easily by heating a mixture of K2CO3 (potash) and molar excess urea around 200°C. At first the urea will went then gaseous ammonia will be evolved. When it is done you are left with potassium cyanate of technical purity.

[Anonymous No.2398669]

>>2398666
>At first the urea will went
* melt

[Anonymous No.2398674]

>>2377574
There's not a lot of drying agents you can use for acetone because acetone will self-condensate in acidic or basic conditions (aldol condensation). So any acidic (say CaCl2) or basic (say sodium metal or NaOH) drying agents are out of the question.

I don't understand what you're trying to do with glycerin here.

As your pic suggests here >>2377854 you can use anhydrous CaSO4 as drying agent or mol. sieves.

[Anonymous No.2398677]

>>2398660
Use an angle grinder to take the glaze off. lmao

[Anonymous No.2398680]

>>2377854
>Finally I wouldn't be surprised if sodium reacts with acetone just by itself...
it will, it will reduce acetone to isopropanol, which will also react with sodium forming isopropoxide, which will definitely cause aldol condensation of acetone.

[Anonymous No.2398946]

>>2398631
Perhaps a very tight weave fibreglass cloth? Might be a pain to seal around, but hot glue/HDPE is somewhat chemically resistant. I tried "kiln paper" but it fell apart really easily when soaked with water, no clue what it was actually made of but I doubt it was glass fibres. I bought a ceramic dish that will likely have the same problems as your unglazed porcelain. Maximise surface area and minimise effective path length, that's all I can suggest.

[Anonymous No.2400040]

is there a good way to permanently mark or etch glass?
i was thinking i could put the mass of a dry empty flask on the actual glassware, because i've done more than a lifetime of measuring the mass of an empty flask.

i imagined like, stenciling the bottom of a flask with some compound and then that mark is there forever?
or, at the very least, i could mark each flask with a letter and have a table on a sheet of paper with the masses for each letter.
so like, a flask marked "A" has a mass of 83.2g or whatever. is there a good way to do this?

[Anonymous No.2400063]

>>2400040
I'd mask/stencil it with tape (or precision cut vinyl or whatever) and lightly sand-blast it. Could maybe do it with an abrasive bit on a rotary tool if the grit is fine enough not to scratch the glass, but I'd definitely want to sand-blast. If you leave any significant scratches the stresses could be dangerous for glassware.

The other method would be vacuum depositing a coating through such a stencil. Electroless plating might work well enough, but silver and copper and such are probably too soft, and I wouldn't really trust them as a base layer to some other metal being plated atop them. I'd likely want to plate it with either a ceramic or a hard-wearing metal.

Some sort of coating that gets baked on via kiln may be an option, though I doubt it would keep any ground glass fittings shapely.

>inb4 measures mass precisely
>engraves/coats the numbering on the side
>now measures slightly differently

[Anonymous No.2400164]

>>2400040
Glass etching cream and stencils.

[Anonymous No.2400582]

>>2341869
>buy aspirin
>base ester hydrolysis to salicylic acid
>decarboxylate/distill
cheap phenol

[Anonymous No.2400700]

>>2332737
HCL production industrially doesn't really have the opportunity to make dirty side products.
it's gas phase hydrogen and chlorine.
most contamination is stuff from the reaction vessel, or leached from the storage container.
so you'll get stuff like ferric chlorides from steel, etc.
but usually even the hardware stuff is pretty clean.

[Anonymous No.2400705]

if distilling hcl yields the 20% azeotrope, then the rest of the HCl is surely just lost to gaseous HCl right?

lets say you have 100 mL of azeotropic hcl already. you distill a batch of 30% hcl solution. the distillate you collect is 20% hcl and water.

what if you put a line from the vacuum takeoff into a solution of your 100 mL azeotropic hcl?
why wouldn't the HCl vapors dissolve in that, to yield something higher than 20% hcl?
surely you could even cool the liquid and get even higher concentrations of HCl.
of course it's not perfect, but you'd get some amount of 20% HCl and then some amount of more-than-20% HCl. right?

[Anonymous No.2400726]

>>2400700
Nah it's full stuff that was permanently added in. It goes purple when it reacts with a metal (tin, iron, etc.), which I'm pretty sure isn't normal.

[Anonymous No.2400740]

>>2400726
yeah i think it's going to depend on the source. a manufacturer might put stabilizers in it, or dyes, or whatever.
some hardware stores near me have really yellow HCl, but other brands are water-clear.
HCl does react metals. even just the vapors will rust everything around the container. i've not seen that purple reaction but i'll check it out next time i get the chance.

i guess your only options, short of just trying other brands, is distilling it to get 20% HCl. which is still pretty good. or use it with the impurities for stuff where it won't matter. like stuff where you'll distill off the product anyway, etc.

[Anonymous No.2402039]

>>2362325
you can buy battery acid (40-ish% H2SO4) in car parts diy-repair place
concentrating that further is possible, but not particularly important for most uses

[Anonymous No.2402518]

>>2384797
Some company's allow you to rent a postal business address for a fee.

[Anonymous No.2402520]

>>2400040
Mark a border of tape round the number then use a grinder not sure what metal and kind of spray the tape with the sparks. Then the clear bit that is the number or letter should be coated in metal

[Anonymous No.2404135]

Is someone going to make another general?

[Anonymous No.2404186]

>>2404135
You are going to make another general. He who smelt it dealt it.

[Anonymous No.2404447]

>>2404135
It's not dead yet. Just in need of bumping every three days or so. Thanks for the bump btw.

I'm considering whether it's worth even making a second one, the general is probably too slow to stay afloat. Even the SV-seeker drama general is faster than this one. Maybe we'd be better off merged into another general to make up for the speed, like metallurgy or materials science or something.

If anyone remaining wants to contribute ideas for broadening the scope of this general I'm all ears. I think "metal refining and chemistry general" might be enough to get the gold-panners and PC-card finger scavengers in here, which may bolster the numbers enough. Same for rust removal and tool restoration.

[Anonymous No.2404754]

>>2400040
Depending on what you do with the glass, just make a small marking with nail polish on the side. It should resist most stuff if you don't work with aggressive organic solvents and it won't weaken the glass.
Just remember to measure the glass after making the marking for obvious reasons. Also recheck those masses every now and again to be sure.

[Anonymous No.2404762]

>>2389882
Kind of. Biodiesel is a methylated ester. The reaction you're likely gonna use, the transesterification works for any pair of ester and alcohol so ethanol will work fine. How good the end product will be as a fuel I don't know, but the reaction will happen.
Your yield will probably be lower than what it would be with methanol, though.

[Anonymous No.2404764]

>>2382074
That's why Z and E are for, my nigga.

[Anonymous No.2406318]

>>2404447
>ideas for broadening the scope of this general
What kind of electronic components can be fabricated in a small lab with obtainable chemicals? Not talking microchips, more like diodes, transistors, caps, etc. Can I make a voltage regulator on silicon without crazy expensive optics and lasers?

[Anonymous No.2406655]

>>2406318
If you don't care about feature size, you could probably make a single BJT on a 2x2cm piece of silicon just using hand-painted masks. I think you need some sort of vapour deposition for the doping though, you can make a magnetron sputtering setup for a few hundred dollars that may do the trick. Can likely get quarter-mm size masking with home PCB techniques, though I'm unsure if standard photoresist will withstand the sputtering conditions.

[Anonymous No.2407427]

is methyl ethyl ketone useful for anything?
i noticed lowes/home depot near me quit carrying it, but small chain hardware stores still have it.
i've not had a use for it, but i'm wondering if it's worth buying a few liters in case i need it in the future.

[Anonymous No.2407595]

>>2407427
It's a general purpose solvent like acetone. Specifically it's used by both of the only common ways for hobbyists to make hydrazine sulfate (a source of hydrazine, which has all sorts of uses). It's also used to make methyl ethel ketone peroxide, which is a catalyst in a few different polyester resins, and also an explosive.

See:
http://www.sciencemadness.org/smwiki/index.php/Methyl_ethyl_ketone

Oh and RIP thread.

[Anonymous No.2407941]

So what are some stuff I can do with bromine?
I may or may not have like a kilogram of this thing sitting on my lap and I need to quench it all for reasons.

[Anonymous No.2408039]

>>2408038
>>2408038
>>2408038
NEW THREAD