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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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215212 No.215212 [Reply] [Original]

Any RepRappers on here?

>> No.215219

yeah im building a mendlemax right now. should be done in about a week.

>> No.215253

>>215212
don't have one myself, it was either this or a cnc, and i just bought a cnc this morning, but good luck with it

>> No.215291

1. build computer
2. learn solidworks
3. build reprap
4. ????
5. GLOBAL DOMINATION

>> No.215355

>>215291
More like domination of flimsy plastic trinkets.

I'm thinking about this, wat do.

http://www.solidoodle.com/

>> No.215492

>>215355
Looks pretty cool. Expert model is $100 less than building a mendlemax on your own? Pretty sweet.

>> No.216191

i've made a prusa mendel, but am having a little trouble calibrating it. prints come out very messy. have left it alone for a while and will come back to calibrating it later.

>> No.216200

Like, what kind of shit could you make with a 3d printer. Other than little trinkets and yoga heads. Usefull things. Im just curious because these things are pretty cool, I just cant think for the life of me what I could make that would be worth buying/building one of these.

>> No.216214

>>216200
I plan on printing things like cabinet handles, toys, light switch covers, electronics housings, chess pieces, and more parts so I can sell them

>> No.216362

>>216191

your plastic filament thickness is probably not that what you sliced the gcode for.
if wire thickness is not properly set during slicing it will either extrude too much or too little plastic causing a mess or worse.

if your model has lots of 'hairs', then adjust the filament thickness setting down by increments of 0.02 mm, or just measure the wire in 2 directions and average that.

to check if it is calibrated, just print 2 small pillars a few centimeters apart and see if any hairs or blobs remain.

>>216200

so far I printed a pcb holder base for my busted pcb holder. printing a lathe currently. also printed joints for a casino robot arm and ofcourse numerous upgrades for the printer itself.

have not even touched the yoda models. check thingiverse.com for all kinds of stuff.

>> No.216365

>>215355

flimsy is not the word to use. properly printed (PLA) it is pretty damn strong stuff. but since you can entirely set the thickness/filling of what you print. strength is usually not an issue.

>> No.217229

>>216362
thanks for the input. will see if i have the filament thickness set correctly.

>> No.217320

you, showed it off at a local mini-maker faire.
results:
2 job offers and a paid speaking engagement.
All for being able to follow directions and throw $500 at a hobby.
I mostly print key fob type shit for various groups I'm part off. they sell them for $3 and give me $1 each. hobby paid for already.

>> No.217324

Anyone got some speed/quality comparisons with the MakerBot? I've got a Thing-O-Matic, but I never get around to doing anything with it.

>> No.217340

>>217324
assuming you've got your prusa tuned well, and your software/firmware toolchain set up right. It'll run 50% faster than everything except an ultimaker.

>> No.217343

>>217340
Wow, just looked up the ultimaker... that is some serious speed.

Anyone here do anything besides thermoplastic deposition?

>> No.217890

I can't understand the for sale forums for reprap. Can anyone point me in the direction I need to go to start one of these things? Or even better, is a bro on here willing to sell me a kit?

>> No.217892

Don't bother, by the time you get all the materials together you would have spent 3 times the price if you would have just got it new in china, and the product from china would be built correctly, none of this cobbled shit.

Don't bother, china makes it for cheaper and better quality.

>> No.217965

so where do I order one from china?

>> No.219149

>>217890

yeah for a first time reprapper with no bro to back him up it confusing as hell.
however, with a bit of googling for 'reprap prusa kit sale' you can probably find loads of shops that can help you on your way.

Hell ebay even helps on that part.
essentially what you need can be summed as the electronics kit (usually a sanguino with the stepper drivers and motors like : http://xyzprinters.com/electronics/148-prusa-make-it-red-kit.html you have the choice to solder it yourself like a true DIY'er or have it come presoldered.

thats pretty much it regarding electronics in 1 kit.

The hotend is one of the trickier parts to get, but lots of examples for that.The hardware (rods,screws etc) can be gotten from local hardware store (or again from the shop)
Same goes for belts, they have all kinds of kits and when in doubt just email them.

The plastic parts usually go for around 50$ unless you find a bro nearby. Again ebay helps! ('reprap plastic parts')

When building the first time from scratch it will probably cost around 700$ due to mistakes etc. If you have someone directly backing you up on this with experience, it can shave off 200$ with ease.

If you're a bit lazy or more budget minded, you might want to go for http://shop.seemecnc.com/H-1-Complete-Kit-71599.htm

Pro-tip, do go for a heated bed (the red pcb worked best for me) as it makes a HUGE difference in print quality.

>>217892

what are you even doing in this forum, also wrong, have yet to see 1 from china that rivals the cost AND build space.

>> No.219170

>>219149
wow that kit is terrible value- they'd be making a crazy profit margin on that one.

>> No.219177

>>219170

not sure what you mean, as I checked and its pretty complete and ok for that price range. hell show me a significantly cheaper one then.

>> No.219208

>>219177

noting that there are 2 links in the quoted post, I refer to

http://xyzprinters.com/electronics/148-prusa-make-it-red-kit.html

looking at the kit, I could break even selling approx 10 kits for 50% of the price - including a comparable PCB. approx 10 kits required to make shipping costs negligible.

>> No.219264

>>219208

does that kit include the nema 17 motors etc?

>> No.219268

Been wanting to make one for a long time, can't wait till I have time off.

>> No.219625
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219625

CNC master race

>> No.219663

>>219625
>DOS application
>motherfucking ZIP drive

They still make ISA cards for our 486-based CNC at work.

Hell, they still make the 486 motherboards.

>> No.219696

I want a 3d printer, but i have no justification to buy one because i cannot think of ANYTHING useful to make with them

i might tell my work to get one for prototyping though

>> No.219717

>>219625
Could you point me to a cheap CNC that has at least an 8.5 by 11 inch workspace?

>> No.220027

>>219717
Depending on what you consider cheap you could get a tormach ($8500)
http://www.tormach.com/
or buy a non CNC mill (like a Dayton 2AC40) and convert it to CNC yourself.

>>219663
>486
>Introduced in 1989
>2012
I now have a new setup with a modern computer running Linux, not that I minded using floppys.

>> No.221142

>>219625
>jaz drive
>belkin powermaster
>gateway 2000 keyboard
>what looks like a ps2 mouse
>white cased pc
>probably old as hell program, looks like a bios screen lol
>and then there's a brand new lcd monitor.

Seriously, what the fuck.

>> No.221314
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221314

>>221142
>Implying that the color of my computer case negatively affects the CNC's performance

Pic is of my new rig.

>> No.221315

Building a Reprap Mondo but the designer has disappeared, so kinda winging it & will put up a better wiki when I'm done if it works well.

>> No.221548

>>220027
Any recommendation for a desktop CNC machine?

>> No.221568

>>221142

If it works, don't fix it. Also, replacing all that with something new would probably just cost some money, without offering any real benefits.

Many "important" production places use even older equipment.

>> No.221916

>>215291
why learn solidworks when >grabcad.com ?

>> No.222062

>>219264
yes
>>219625
>CNC master race
where is your cnc machine? I see a lot of handwheels.

also:
>tb6560
>R8

were the first 2 mistakes I saw. At this rate you qualify for garage tinkerer tier at best.

>> No.222157
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222157

>>222062
>where is your cnc machine? I see a lot of handwheels.
The Y axis was off for adjustment in that picture.

>tb6560
>R8
w/e it was a budget mill, cost 2k.
In the future I'll probably replace the TB6560.
Whats wrong with R8 though?


>>221548
http://www.sherline.com/CNCmenu.htm
http://www.syilamerica.com/machine_x4st.php

Or get a mill and convert it to CNC (costs much less).
http://www.fignoggle.com/
http://cncfusion.com/

>> No.222166
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222166

Lolhardwaresourcing

Think I might work on it a bit today if I can find my drill bits.

Its just a plain old 3 axis CNC, but I'd like to try my hand at repraping once its together and in regular use.