/wwg/ - Woodworking General

[Anonymous No.2043988]

Norm edition

Welcome to the woodworking general, here we discuss the working of wood and the tools and techniques of working wood. So far we tend to be mostly hand tool folk with a slant towards cabinetry and carving but all are welcome and we have some capable power tool folk amount our ranks. General carpentry question such as framing/decking/general construction seems to get a better response in the /qtddtot/ or /sqt/.

>essential /wwg/ books
Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places, but the other two are MIA.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561588261

Christopher Schwarz tells you everything you need to know about planes and saws and their use
Handplane Essentials
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440332983
Handsaw Essentials
Best to find this one in PDF from the usual sources, out of print and pricey!

Chris Pye wrote the book on carviing and keeps on writing them.
https://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/

The eastern tradtion, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0941936465

Leonard Lee The Complete Guide to Sharpeninig, how to sharpen most everything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561581259

Bob Flexner - Finishing 101, covers the common stuff, his other books cover the uncommon and go into more depth
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440308454/

Illustrated Cabinet Making by Bill Hylton, learn to design furniture that won't fall apart
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565233697/

>essential /wwg/ tv
https://www.pbs.org/show/woodwrights-shop/
https://www.newyankee.com/

[Anonymous No.2044007]

Could you somehow make a chess board without any glue?

[Anonymous No.2044010]

>>2044007
Make the bottom + white squares from a solid block of light wood, remove holes for black squares with a router and press fit them? Or some kind of really complicated joint at the bottom

[Anonymous No.2044046]

>>2044007
Make it thick and run 16 long screws.

or

single board and stain the black squares

[Anonymous No.2044121]

>>2044046
>>2044007
yeah the single board and staining is probably the best idea.

[Anonymous No.2044127]

>>2044007
Why tho?

[Anonymous No.2044176]

>made rex krueger's low roman workbench
>don't know how to make round tenons without vice
>just use hatchet to approximate tenons, all wind up being too small for already undersized mortise (1 inch)
>as I've been planing it one leg breaks after another, so I've used the improvised vise to make new, better tenons
>Skill improves bigly, but the mortise angles are still off
I'm gonna buy an auger bit today and drill through the holes at a better angle. For now I've just been working with firewood as the legs. This hobby has been super fun so far, thanks for having this general anons.

[Anonymous No.2044302]

>making some new shelves for my warehouse
>half lap joins on pine wood
I was using some 8x57mm bead with my Makita RT0700C, just like picture related.
near of the end of the duty, I noticed the router started to feel tired.
Checked the heat in between 2 setups of wood and measurements.
The Router was very warm. I gave it a few minutes to rest more. then started again.
A smell started to come.
then another type of smell. then some smoke.
I gave 1 hour wait.. it was my last cut, 2mm more to go...
Started again, saw electrical arcs in the head.
Stopped that shit.
Watch for repair guy.. he is 250km away.
some sort of service Manual at https://www.makitapro.ru/u/spares/repair/RT0700C-TE.pdf
Can I buy replacements parts somewhere ?
or just buy a new router ?

that small device is nice for little works, but really not for like 2h cuts with some big bead.

[Anonymous No.2044325]

>>2044302
You smoked the motor. Might just need some new brushes, and they’re pretty cheap. Maybe try to make the cut in several passes next time put less stress on the motor

[Anonymous No.2044336]

>>2044325
Thank you for your reply. I did several passes. I think the bead went shitty. It'd be cool if it'd be only brushes. I will open it tomorrow and check the device's state.
In the meantime, the last 2mm of those 12 sticks remaining will be made on Table saw.

[Anonymous No.2044337]

>>2044302

Nope it's screwed. Buy a bigger router with a half inch collet, that one is 1/4?

[Anonymous No.2044358]

>>2044336
found that
https://www.topdealsonline.shop/blogs/blog/when-to-change-your-power-tool-carbon-brushes

nice to learn about it ^^

[Anonymous No.2044360]

>>2044337
yup 8mm ~= 1/4"
yeah a bigger router like RP2300FCXJ would be nice.. but I'm not a contractor.

[Anonymous No.2044385]

Sup /wwg/

Just for reference, I consider myself to be a novice+/intermediate woodworker. I've built some shelves and other furniture as well as walls, floors and all that stuff, but I've never touched upon advanced joinery or stuff like that. Anyways

Coming up at work in a few weeks I might be tasked with building a bunch of pic relateds in different sizes, baseline varying between 20 and 50 cm or so. Top and bottom are not necessarily rectangular, they could also be rhombic. They need to stand upright on their own and securely support a moderate weight (I'll probably put a sandbag inside each for that)

I want them to be a clear, even, bright color, giving the illusion that it's all one piece as if it's a plastic cast or something like that. No joints or cracks showing. Earlier when I've filled cracks between particle board with multipurpose filler it always shows, even after sanding furiously and painting several layers over. I'm thinking of going for MDF for these even though I hate working with it. Should I use acrylic filler or something else instead? Or should I just paint it? Any special types of paint? I'm afraid that even if everything lines up perfectly, the stress from lifting them up and moving them will crack the paint between the plates and ruin the aesthetic if I don't use some sort of filler between them. I guess I should glue them? I'm planning on painting, sanding, painting again and sanding a last time, but honestly I know very little about painting or surface treatment in general so I'd appreciate some input

[Anonymous No.2044387]

>>2044385
And how the fuck do I even go about constructing one of these? Do I just have to draw up all the parts needed, do some trigonometry magic and hope that my cuts are good enough to make it stick together properly? Or are there some tricks or shortcuts I could do to minimize shit like that? It also needs an internal frame to support the weight and all that which makes it a wee bit more complicated

Tools I have at my disposal include drills, table saw, miter saw, circular saw, handsaws (including Japanese style ones) as well as most other handtools you'd find in an okay shop. No facilities for spray painting unfortunately

[Anonymous No.2044520]

>>2043988
Looking to buy a tool or two for making simple items to keep around the house (boxes, small shelves). Is a table saw the way to go? Seems to be the best option for repeatable cuts and 45° angles.

[Anonymous No.2044543]

Saw pic related and want to build it. At a glance it seems very simple, but what goes at the bottom?

[Anonymous No.2044566]

>>2044543

Nothing, it's a planter you monkey

[Anonymous No.2044588]

>>2044566
thank you

[Anonymous No.2044599]

I want to start making epoxy resin + LED projects after falling down a youtube rabbit hole.
Figured something small like a desk lamp (Deus Ex inspired) would be good to start with

>is it worth making the LED strip removable? I doubt I'd keep it long enough to burn it out
>how to manage heat from the strip?
>how much space for the voltage converter and controller do I need

any tips on those or the design would be nice, cheers

[Anonymous No.2044609]

>>2044543
I would staple a burlap sheet to the bottom to allow for drainage, and give it some legs

[Anonymous No.2044736]

>>2044609
>burlap
not if you want it to last

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2044751]

>>2044543
A few inches of rocks to allow for drainage.

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2044756]

>>2044385
Have you considered using bondo to smooth everything out to hide all your seams? Are you making a solid 6 sides shape or will you have it open on at least one side you need to hide? I can draw something up for you.

[Anonymous No.2044796]

Rate my address Numbers
6al-4v aerospace grade titanium numbers raised 3/4in off the wood.
Walnut sealed in Spar Varnish

[Anonymous No.2044799]

>>2044796

Looks like you sanded the countersink you madman, 9/10for decadancy

[Anonymous No.2044800]

>>2044302
if you see sparks on top its most likely brushes
undo those black round plugs and check with specs in manual or new ones, any cracks or bits missing or excessive wear means they need replacing
just your regular wear part
if it smalls in certain ways its cooked motor but you have o know that
if brush replacement helps but it overheats strip it and check cooling fan blades

[Anonymous No.2044801]

>>2044543
if its raised bed on soil nothing
if its sitting where you can't have nothing anything slightly waterproof like osb3 or any wood, dont use ply
line with plastic either way if you use regular timber to slow down rot

[Anonymous No.2044803]

>>2044599
led strips last few years in constant use, use one of decent quality and it will last forever
stick it to aluminium strip if you want cooling, run said strip down the leg or something

[Anonymous No.2044805]

>>2044756
>bondo
Well I've considered using *something* but I don't know what would be suitable in order to make it 100% blend in

The bottom will be open

[Anonymous No.2044810]

>>2044799
>sanded the countersink
i used an Aerospace countersink tool with a sharp bit. but aerospace C-Sink angles are a tad different than standard Flathead screws so the screws don't fit perfectly.

[Anonymous No.2044936]

>piss smells like wood
anyone know this feel

[Anonymous No.2044980]

>>2044936
Wear a dusk mask when you sand. ;)

Is there a Vola that would be good to dump pdfs and other woodsy stuff?

[Anonymous No.2045026]

Danish oil - is there any way to recycle oily rags? I'm using a cut up old t-shirt to apply it and would rather re-use the scraps than have to cut up more t-shirts, but am also wary of burning my house down. I'm keeping the used rags in a bucket full of water for now.

[Anonymous No.2045161]

>>2044520
Table saw is the one stop shop except when you need to cut something that isn’t straight material (board/beams) or if you want curved or specialised cuts (like dovetails). It’ll outperform most other tools for straight cuts.

Downside is noise, space and shitloads of sawdust. I made most of my house stuff like that with hand saw and jigsaw. Also they’re a lot more expensive of course, and you shouldn’t cheap out on them.

I’d suggest a drill press as well if you don’t have one yet

[Anonymous No.2045173]

I recently bought a 105 year old house and ripped up the layers of carpet and linoleum upstairs. Does this look like pine, and does it appear to be old paint on top? I'm in the inland NW

[Anonymous No.2045232]

>>2044543
Dirt if you want it. Or set it on pieces of treated 4x4 to keep from rotting?

[Anonymous No.2045233]

>>2044599
Nothing. Heat won't be a problem. Just seal it in and go nuts.

[Anonymous No.2045235]

>>2044751
This. You want 1 1/2" clean and it'll be heavy as fuck. You don't want to try and shovel much bigger. Maybe 2" if you have to

[Anonymous No.2045236]

>>2044796
Epic/10

[Anonymous No.2045238]

>>2044805
Wood putty mixed with the sawdust from your project. 100% blend

[Anonymous No.2045243]

>>2045026
Get some more shirts from a thrift store and throw it all in the washing machine with pinesol. Wash your work clothes and bath towels and shit after. Pick related used to be in my washer all the time and I only wound up with an oddball stain here and there. Or sneak it into the laundromat but be sure and use the Pinesol so you don't ruin some poorfags clothes. They are at a laundromat. They got enough problems

[Anonymous No.2045305]

>>2045026
oils need to be washed with solvents

[Anonymous No.2045318]

How much of a fag would I be if I made one of these epoxy river tables?

[Anonymous No.2045355]

>>2045173
Guessing pine or poplar if it is soft enough to mark with your fingernail, but I'm not from NW or an expert. If it is really hard, I would guess oak.

Looks like paint.

[Anonymous No.2045363]

>>2045318
0%, as long as you don't have sex with other men on it.

You will spend a bunch of cash to build it, and if you goof up, they look easily ruined.

Some of them <are> really awesome to look at.

[Anonymous No.2045469]

I want to make circles. How do I figure out the math to try and (decently) optimize blank glue-up? Making 13in circles, but don't want to glue up a 13x13 because that's about 34 square inches of wood I'm tossing with each circle (I'm looking to make almost 200 of these suckers, so losing anything less than that raw 20% would be good.
I also don't want to make my glueups like 20 pieces either, probably just 4 pieces max.

[Anonymous No.2045535]

Is red oak safe for silver storage?
I know white oak reacts with iron and stains.
What wood is safe for long term storage of silver wealth?

[Anonymous No.2045553]

>>2045535
you could put a layer of felt or something inside to protect your chest from your hoard

[Anonymous No.2045748]

>>2044007
Sure, lots of joinery. You could use blind wedged dowels or sliding dovetails. Sliding dovetails would be fun, if you do it right you could have the frame lock it all together so it never could come apart without breaking it. Why do you want to avoid glue?


>>2045535
It could be, depends on the oak in general. The issue is the high tannin content, red oak is quite variable in tannin content, some has almost none, some a great deal. Simple test, try fuming a cutoff from the piece you are going to use, if it darkens, might not want to do it, if it doesn't you should be good. Just put the wood and a saucer with a 1/4 cup or so of standard ammonia in a tuperware container and ignore it for a couple days.

[Anonymous No.2045753]

Is it worth getting into Japanese tools? Like those cool saws and shit?

[Anonymous No.2045769]

>>2045753
They are just tools, no better than the western equivalents, just a different working method. If that way of working suits you, than they are worth getting into. They do some things quicker, some things slower, overall about the same. The one spot they really fail compared to western tools is with the very dense or difficult to work woods, slow going. Other than that, if you learn how to use them to their strengths, they will do the job and do it well, same as western.

Most people tend to end up with a mix of west and east and just use the best tool for the task.

One other place eastern tools fail, end grain, even the hardest wooden plane body will get chewed up by end grain, amazing how much wear even soft wood end grain does to a horn beam or lignum vitae plane sole. Good idea to go metal for any plane which will be used on end grain.

[Anonymous No.2045785]

>>2044007
Make the board from one solid piece of plywood, carve out lines between the squares, use wood burner to make black squares. Done.

[Anonymous No.2045943]

I'm looking for rattan weaves but having trouble finding rolls wider than 65cm.
Is this some production standard or something?
I don't want to have to end up weaving it myself.

[Anonymous No.2045969]

>>2045753

No, their tools are designed for softwoods being cut by midgets. Thru typically sharpen their tools with a finer bevel too which is fine for softwoods but as soon as you hit a pin knot in oak RIP
Everyonee brags about their flushcut saws maybe... But boy do they look stupid and it's mostly just learning technique.

[Anonymous No.2045989]

>>2045363
This. Epoxy tables can look really badass.
And like this anon said, they can definitely cost a lot to make look nice. So do your research first and plan it out well.

[Anonymous No.2046158]

>>2045943
The pre woven rolls are considerably weaker than proper cane work, probably has shown to have too short of a life when you get much wider than that. Other than drilling all those holes, cane work is rather pleasant.

>>2045969
Softwood tools are a specialty tool in Japan and few of those tools end up on the export market, almost their entire export is general purpose or hardwood tools.

[Anonymous No.2046220]

>>2043988

> Nahm
> Woodworking

"Let's make a chair. Just put this wood in your chair-making machine". Give me the Woodwright any day.

[Anonymous No.2046271]

>>2045753
Depends. I think >>2045769 is more or less correct. Individual tools may be subjectively better in certain ways and others may be worse than their western equivalents. But if there is something you can make only with western tools or Japanese tools I don't know of it. It seems like everything has some sort of equivalent. It may just be due to cross pollination or something but I certainly don't know what was originally from where. There are even metal shod kanna that avoid the excessive wear that >>2045769 is talking about. One thing to remember is that Japanese work holding is very different than western work holding and a lot of their tools benefit from this. Personally I like western work holding though I do use some Japanese tools fairly regularly. I especially like their chisels. Their relatively cheap chisels have equivalent hardness to a fairly expensive western chisel. Their professional tier ones are even harder. I like some of their saws for certain scenarios but I mainly use western saws still (for one, it is easier to get triangular files for sharpening compared to whatever those Japanese files are called). And call me a pleb but I still like the convenience of having adjusters on planes (the only wooden plane I use is a foreplane that I never change the set on except when I sharpen it).

[Anonymous No.2046273]

>>2045969
You have no idea what you are talking about with the sharpening angle, which is a laughable criticism since you can freely change it. They are typically 27-30 degrees for softwood, which is a blunter angle than western chisels ground for softwood. The proof is in the pudding. Plenty of great works were made with Japanese tools, just as plenty of great works were made with western tools. They both perform all the essential functions of woodworking.

[Anonymous No.2046276]

>>2045753
I like using japanese pull saws way more than western. Easier to control, less fatigue on the hand. And when the blade gets dull you can just buy a new one for cheap, unless the "good" quality backsaws from veritas and lee nielsen which need to be sharpened, which is a whole other skill to learn. Or send them out to be sharpened.

[Anonymous No.2046312]

>>2044520
Sliding compound miter chop saw and a circular saw. You can do everything you need to do with those two. Rip everything down with the circular-saw and then make your fine cuts with the chop-saw. Or just buy dimensional lumber and you can cut everything with the chop-saw.

I would recommend against a table saw, they're dangerous, noisy, messy and you've got to have a lot of space for them.

[Anonymous No.2046313]

>>2045161
I would argue that the radial arm saw is the one stop shop. You can wield that thing however you like. It is exceptional as a shop tool.

[Anonymous No.2046333]

>>2044520
Let me expound on this: >>2046312

I'm a finish carpenter by trade. The woman and I just welcomed our baby girl into the world last Spring, so I've been working around the house quite a bit the last year or so. I've made all manner of shelves, a few cabinets, a free-standing shelf, a work-cart, baby changing cart, baby gate, t.v. wall mounts, a mirror, a computer cart, various barricades for the little one and much more. Our apartment has gone through a significant overhaul, you would be surprised.

Anyway, most of the work was done on our balcony using either my chop saw or a japanese hand-saw/miter box combo in conjunction with my Milwaukee drill combo. I use a Bosch GCM12SD and it's an awesome saw, I love the thing. I did make my own miter guide to cut boards that are too big for the miter box. Of course I do have a Makita biscuit joiner and a Milwaukee circular saw, but they really haven't been used very often. I did buy a Festool vacuum (the smallest one) and it is a god-send. Regardless of that, I have many clamps, of which I bought most of them at Harbor Break.

At this point I buy dimensional lumber or whatever I need within about 12" wide so I can hand-saw it on the balcony without making a huge mess and a racket. Then I primarily just do screw and glue. Everything has been quite sturdy, I'm quite pleased. Obviously the only issue I have is finishing the projects, so most of them are simply sanded down and waiting for an oil or something.

I would highly recommend you pick up the GRK cabinet screws when you want to join your boards. They have a self-sucking power unlike most other screw heads, which is very nice (as in, they will suck the boards together instead of just barreling right through the wood). I use forstner bits for head placement and pre-drill everything. Yes, it takes extra time, but it looks so much nicer and you'll save yourself some pain in the ass. If you're interested, I can post some pics of some of my work.

[Anonymous No.2046354]

>>2046276
Sharpenability is a feature not a bug. And furthermore sharpenable Japanese saws are the norm for most of history, just like sharpenable western saws. Replaceable blades are a recent innovation just like "hardpoint" western disposables. Sharpening rip teeth is trivially easy and crosscut not that much harder. Setting teeth is the trickiest part IMO but that is done fairly easily with a saw set which for some reason are the one woodworking tool that aren't inflated to collector's prices on Ebay.

[Anonymous No.2046493]

>>2046220
based puritan

[Anonymous No.2046534]

the program says this is fine, but IDK
trusses @ 600 CTS

[Anonymous No.2046613]

>>2046220
>Woodwright
speaking of which, full episodes are going up on yt
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJlBuV_9w816re7vsHyLPBg/videos

[Anonymous No.2046683]

Aaaaw shiet.

I found a place that delivers wood veneer on mdf bases.
Any size up tp 120cm depth and 250cm wide 0.6mm veneer.
They have american walnut and the other various types.
0.6mm is not a lot to work with for sanding with 800sandpapet and up.
Would use regular glued pine to support the mdf.
Then glue the sides with more walnut veneer.
It'd be a 75cm deep 240cm wide pc desk, price about 260usd.

Should I do it?

[Anonymous No.2046700]

>>2045535
Nice compounds. How'd you get them so perfect?

[Anonymous No.2046831]

>>2046333
please post pics when you can anon, I'm interested in seeing your handiwork

[Anonymous No.2046851]

>>2046683
No

[Anonymous No.2046858]

>>2046851
Why not.

[Anonymous No.2046866]

With the current prices of lumber being so high, is it even worth it right now to start up a small side business making outdoor furniture and similar? I feel like what you'd have to price them at to make even a small profit will make them way to expensive to sell. Thoughts ?

[Anonymous No.2047107]

>>2046333
What makes the Festool vac so good, over say a run of the mill wet/dry vac?

[Anonymous No.2047291]

>>2046866
imo, you will have to make a quality product and inform the buyer why your product is better.

[Anonymous No.2047315]

Where is the usual sources for the books?

[Anonymous No.2047322]

>>2047315
z library

[Anonymous No.2047517]

>>2046683
yes

[Anonymous No.2047748]

that's right norm

[Anonymous No.2048065]

>>2047107
Festool vacs aren't anything special. A flex vce is just as good but half the price

[Anonymous No.2048196]

>>2046866
best bet if you're looking for profit is reclaimed wood.
Or go bottom tier and get pallets or something

[Anonymous No.2048346]

>>2044543
Recomend sing some chicken wire to stop mice digging throu youre roots and carrots

[Anonymous No.2048873]

>>2046220
>discrediting Norm "the biscuit man" Abram
limp

[Anonymous No.2048930]

Ordered one of those new routers, will let you know how it goes.
>lcd variable speed
>fixed base
>plunge base
>0.500" collet
No flat edge on the base is an immensely good sign.

[Anonymous No.2048940]

>>2048930
That looks rather small to be able to take advantage of the larger bits offered by a 1/2" collet.

[Anonymous No.2049276]

Anyone know the best way to get a dado along the edge of a curved panel?

[Anonymous No.2049322]

>>2049276
Perhaps a router with the correct bit

[Anonymous No.2049332]

>>2049276
On the concave or convex side?

>>2048930
Looks like a nice little router, and at a good price too.

I use a cordless 1/4" shank makita trim router for a ton of stuff. If you're sensible and take small passes a router like that can do a lot of work. It's nice to have a larger more powerful (2hp+) router for the big stuff, but that should see you through most of your work.

[Anonymous No.2049398]

>>2049276
That is a rabbet. Router or router plane would be the usual way.

[Anonymous No.2049690]

Danish oil "recipes" keep saying to mix mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil, and poly in equal parts. what exactly is the benefit of cutting it with spirits? Why can't I just use less poly?

[Anonymous No.2049715]

>>2049690
Spirits thin both the oil and the poly enough so that it can fully soak into the wood and act like as people would expect an oil finish to act. You have to thin BLO as well, most woods it will just sit on top without soaking in much and take forever to dry.

Danish oil is just a generic name for a pre-thinned oil based finish, generally thinned well for the common hardwoods, tad too thin for softwoods, but it will do, just will need an extra coat or two. Teak oil is pretty much the same thing but it is thinned to a greater extent so it can soak well into dense woods like teak. Up until recently Danish Oil was a mix of BLO and Tung oils and turpentine, they seem to often contain poly these days which pretty much just makes them an oil based poly that has been thinned enough to soak in instead sit on top as most polys do. Tru-Oil is pretty much what Danish Oil was, BLO, Tung, Turps (actually they might use a different solvent, I forget), it is not quite as thin as Danish so it will do ok on softwoods but it will have penetration issues on the denser woods. Tru-Oil does contain a 'propritary blend' of oils as well as the BLO and Tung, this is around 5-10% of the oil content and is what ever oils will get the end product to have a consistent hue, all the other oil products have natural variation in hue between batches, this is what you are really paying for when you buy Tru-Oil, it always has that some color from batch to batch.

[Anonymous No.2049741]

>>2049715
Thank u tru oil salesman

[Anonymous No.2049757]

>>2049741
My pitch was more meant to point out that these products are a just a huge markup for a tiny savings in time. $25 will get you enough BLO, Tung and Turps to keep you busy for years to come and you can tweak the ratio to suit the job.

Standard practices for oils.
>Linseed for dark woods
>Tung for light woods
>Blend as desired to tweak the hue, oils like spike and walnut for a little more control
>artists oil colors to get more control or to make a stain
>Take your blended oil and thin with turps just until it is thin enough to fully soak into the wood
>Apply, dry, light sand, repeat until desired finish is achieved.

[Anonymous No.2049782]

Was planing to batch out some nightstands for a relatives furniture stall (antique mall), butt hell if lumber prices don't have me jacked up right now. Can't get a 2x6 for less than $12 and even the shitty Chinese plywood is $45 a sheet. Hard to turn any kind of profit with these material costs.