Why are you still using a Drill when you should be using an Impact Driver?

[Anonymous No.2043946]

[Anonymous No.2043953]

>>2043946
Because I sometimes want to drill holes in things rather than drive fasteners.

[Anonymous No.2043964]

>>2043946
>buy a second $200 tool to do half of what your first $200 tool did
No thanks

[Anonymous No.2043975]

>>2043953
oi how u gonna drive fastners wit that?

[Anonymous No.2043980]

>>2043975
git gud

[Anonymous No.2043994]

>>2043964
>BUT MUH SLIP IMPACT

[Anonymous No.2043998]

>>2043964
You are as presumptuous as you are poor and Irish.

[Anonymous No.2044026]

>>2043964
>spending $200 to drill holes and turn screws
what the fuck

[Anonymous No.2044034]

Impact drills only really serve two functions over the power drill. Unscrewing rotors and saving space in your tool box.

[Anonymous No.2044062]

>>2044034
>attempt to remove torqued bolt
>get wrist jerked like a retard

[Anonymous No.2044074]

>>2043946
I own one but I only use it for concrete screws and other shit that's tough to drive in, I'd use it more but it's so fucking loud

[Anonymous No.2044086]

>>2043946
Got an impact driver as a gift. Thought it was a total meme but I kept it because it went with my set, and I didn't want to seem like an asshole. It's unironically my favorite cordless tool now. And yes I still use my drill for anything involving bits because I like making shit as complicated as possible.
>>2044074
>I'd use it more but it's so fucking loud
>t. woman

[Anonymous No.2044092]

The combination can be extremely handy used as intended (drill pilot hole, sink screws with impact) while the choice of friction chuck and hex bit is advantageous for driving different items.

Those who don't benefit shouldn't buy them but the impact is a great wrist-saver and RSI is no joke while not having to swap attachments back and forth on one tool gets shit done much quicker. Manually running multiple fasteners is tedious and slow. Manually running hundreds is absurd and would have made my recent siding job (composite panels on frame) misery.

>>2044074
Loud? Use it until you don't care. I've never observed a "loud" electric impact but perhaps they exist.

[Anonymous No.2044096]

>>2043946
hang drywall with an impact driver. You can do it, but it's a lot more effort than using a normal driver with an adjustable whatever the fuck its called. let-off?

[Anonymous No.2044133]

>>2043946
Used to feel like all I needed was a drill then I got a brushless drill and impact driver set last fall and honestly that thing comes in with me for my equipment repair work 90% of the time. It is Phillip jesus, saving thier filthy souls from stripping and getting burned by the hell fires of oxy-acetyl and torn root from limb with a bit

[Anonymous No.2044140]

[Anonymous No.2044144]

Meh. Never felt like I needed more torque so far.
The only real example impactfags seem to be able to come up with is muh rusty bolt. But scavenging rusty auto parts from the junyard on a regular basis seems like a pretty niche application.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2044149]

>>2043946
I still say a drill-driver is better as an only tool for most normies. Using impacts to drill holes is awkward, and lots of the 18v impacts will absolutely rape small to medium sized hardware if the user isn’t careful. A drill with a clutch is easier.

That being said, I carry a subcompact impact driver in my tool bag over a drill-driver. It’s more compact and works ok for drilling ~1/4” holes for drywall anchors and shit. I tried to use a big spade in my full sized impact driver, some brand new Bosch bits, went through a pice of pine or whatever and it split the wood along the grain when it started hammering.

[Anonymous No.2044153]

>>2043964

b-but, it screws in screws like 20% better!!!!

[Anonymous No.2044158]

>>2044096
Clutch

[Anonymous No.2044159]

>>2044144
Impacts are excellent for setting and removing fasteners with somewhat weak heads. Can remove some phillips screw that a regular drill would just cam and strip on.
They are also nice for driving shit at weird angles where you can't really brace the body of the tool. Just a little bit of counter force and the inertia of the tool itself will carry it. With a normal drill, try that shit and it's going to either fuck you up or spin out of your hand. Finally, they let you be lazy pretty often, just driving fasteners which would normally require a pilot hole.
They're pretty useful. Essential? Not exactly. Nice to have? Absolutely. I use my drill almost only for drilling now, and the impact for almost all driving. Only exception is in soft material where a lot of control is needed. Like drywall, as another anon above mentioned.

[Anonymous No.2044170]

>>2044096
use drywall screw bits

[Anonymous No.2044211]

>>2044158
thanks

[Anonymous No.2044283]

>>2044170
Those look like abominations. Do they actually work?

[Anonymous No.2044284]

>>2043946
Lol I just bought this last week. I bought a lot of bits for it at the same time, and the only one that fits is the one that came with it.

[Anonymous No.2044290]

>>2044284
Also I’m fixing my garage ceiling and the impact driver is much lighter than the drill.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2044292]

>>2044284
What do you mean? What didn’t fit?

Only thing I ever had an issue with is the real stubby Milwaukee adapters that don’t hold in any of the half dozen impact drivers I tried, Milwaukee included.

[Anonymous No.2044361]

>>2044170
Wait what the fuck
If they work then that's brilliant.

[Anonymous No.2044364]

>>2044283
>>2044361
they work but not very well
drill with good torque control is way better

[Anonymous No.2044365]

>>2044364
What's the issue? I feel like they might cause wear on the bit because basically every drive will result in cam out, and drywall screws are actually pretty hard.
But now I'm thinking of a little extension with a depth probe attached to a clutch. Drive to depth, clutch opens.

[Anonymous No.2044518]

>>2044364
Screwgun that's meant for this exact purpose is better still.

[Anonymous No.2044519]

>>2043953
ive used pic related but how the fuck will you remove a rusty bolt with that

[Anonymous No.2044539]

>>2043964
So that you don't have to keep changing bits, retard. Some of us actually want to finish our projects within the goddamn decade.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2044541]

>>2044539
This is true. At minimum, having the second drill or impact to drill pilot holes before driving the screws helps immensely.

>>2044519
Impact wrench? Third tool! Or left handed drill bits in the first tool.

[Anonymous No.2044560]

Aren't impact wrenches and impact drives basically the same thing?

[Anonymous No.2044563]

>>2044560
An impact driver has a hex drive, impact wrenches are square drive

[Anonymous No.2044568]

>>2044563
I get that, but isn't that easily fixed with an adapter?

[Anonymous No.2044571]

>>2043946
because I want to drill holes NOT break drill bits.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2044593]

>>2044560
Yes, sort of. Some of the 1/4” and 3/8” square impact wrenches are the exact same tool as the 1/4” hex driver but with a different clutch.

>>2044568
Pretty close, impact wrench normally assumes more power than a 1/4” impact driver. You can get 1/4” square impact wrenches though.

The other thing, impacts lose a lot of power when you start putting adapters and stuff on them. So if you were to take something like pic related, stick a 3/8” drive socket on the “wrench” and stick an adapter and then a socket on the “driver”, the wrench would have more torque. Not sure what the actual % is, but once you put extensions and adapters and stuff on impact tools, the impulses of power don’t transfer to the fastener nearly as well and they lose juice.

[Anonymous No.2044840]

>>2044519
>>2044541
Chuck a socket adapter in the drill, attach a suitable socket, and run the drill in reverse, preferably with a handle braced against something solid.

[Anonymous No.2044842]

>>2044593
>ot sure what the actual % is
It depends greatly on fiddly details like the specific structures and interfaces of the parts linked together, including the internals of the impact, and the harmonics of their interactions.

[Anonymous No.2044848]

>>2044519
Waste of time to use Hole Hawg or similar as an impact because it is not one. Suggesting anyone do so is pure trolling. They're also inconveniently heavy. They're wonderful drills for those who need what they do though.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2044909]

>>2044842
Plus the fact that these impact adapters like the Milwaukee Shockwave with the “Shock Zone” are made to suck up some of the impulse from the impact so they don’t get rattled apart

[Anonymous No.2044982]

>>2044909
The deformation is elastic so the energy is not lost. It changes the waveform and probably lowers the peak though, and I've always wondered if they were actually necessary or just a way to visually tell retards which bits won't explode or melt if you use them in an impact driver.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2044990]

>>2044982
Might be a little bit of both, but the second one definitely matters. Marketing and safety otherwise they would have to warranty millions and millions of bits. I’m sure they could do the same thing with metallurgy alone but then they wouldn’t have the marketing factor and a certain safety factor.

And it does make a difference. When you’re trying to crack loose rusty fasteners on a car, you want as much of that impulse transfered from the tool to the fastener as possible. It’s like those hydraulic impact drivers, they still drive screws at about the same speed but their overall torque rating is quite a bit lower.

[Anonymous No.2045152]

>>2044982
>The deformation is elastic so the energy is not lost
A proportion of the energy is sent back through the driver where it is absorbed by the drive train and the meaty hand holding the driver. It's the same way torque sticks work and why they only work on impact wrenches.

[Anonymous No.2045179]

>>2045152
If it's returning torque back to the driver then it's also delivering it to the bit end. You can't have one without the other at any instant in the pulse cycle. This keeps positive engagement on the fastener and pushes the driver to it's return position faster for another pulse. Yes, peak torque is absolutely going to be shaved off, but the energy is still likely usefully distributed. I just am not sure the effect is significant. Torque sticks need to be pretty long section of thin shaft to actually limit the delivered torque.

[Anonymous No.2046466]

>>2044365
they do wear but they last long enough for what they cost. or you could just not be a spazz and let off the trigger when the screw is at the right depth

[Anonymous No.2046515]

>>2044283
Oh yeah