/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.2025283]

SLA Edition
Old thread: >>2021534
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.

[Anonymous No.2025306]

Post infographics

[Anonymous No.2025308]

>>2025306

[Anonymous No.2025310]

>>2025308

[Anonymous No.2025311]

>>2025277
I've printed benchies from 180c to 225c and all of them warp and have a huge elephants foot. I've done it with bed at 60c and temp off, and I've tried doing 60c to start and turn off the bed after the first 10 layers. It just warps to shit every time. It's hatchbox grey if that matters.

[Anonymous No.2025312]

>>2025308
Oops

[Anonymous No.2025316]

>>2025312
That's all I got
I wish there was some comparing hotend, fans, build surfaces, etc

[Anonymous No.2025324]

I want to get into resin. Printing molds so that I can make some cool resin stuff. Anybody has any experience with it? What should I look into?

[Anonymous No.2025325]

My most recent failure.
So I switched out the nozzle to a stainless steel one before I started this print. Raft and some layers seemed to print OK, but then this happened. When I was screwing the new nozzle in, I noticed that the heater block was kind of loose (it rotated on its own) and foolishly I didn't retighten anything but the nozzle. I tri d twice and failed twice. This is the first fail. It was about a 4 hour print. The fact that there didn't seem to be 4 hours worth of material on the plate is one of the reasons why I think the hotend was clogged. Printed on a raft because I like removing the prints.
I just moved too and my printer isn't went back up yet so I can't even try again yet.
I was printing at 0.48mm layer height with a 0.40mm wide line with a 0.6mm nozzle.

[Anonymous No.2025331]

Can you convert a treadmill into a 3d printer

[Anonymous No.2025345]

>>2025331
Do you want the long or the short answer

[Anonymous No.2025376]

>>2025331
it would be easier to convert an inkjet printer or DVD tray

[Anonymous No.2025392]

>>2025345
Might as well go the extra mile.

[Anonymous No.2025432]

Making progress again on my instax back. Pic related isn't functional, just needed a sanity check to make sure everything was fitting and get a few critical measurements.

I just finished designing a magnetic door that will hold the cartridges in and push the little pressure plate. I still need to figure out how to couple some kind of button/lever to the film eject mechanism, and how to fit batteries.

[Anonymous No.2025445]

What's a mountable extruder that doesn't fucking suck?

I put together a graber i3 for cheap and jerry rigged something for my extruder that doesn't work at all really.

[Anonymous No.2025450]

>>2024191
>>2024182
gayest shit

[Anonymous No.2025452]

>>2020862
sand your shit

[Anonymous No.2025456]

>>2025445
I just got a Winsinn dual geared mountable extruder. It was way too cheap, so I'm kind of concerned with whether or not it will be worth a shit. It feels pretty solid though, visually the quality is great. The extruder did come with its own mounting bracket.

[Anonymous No.2025457]

>>2025445
I bought a Titan Aero clone a few months back and I'm quite happy with it. It doesn't have the problem of the stock hotend where the heatsink fan cools your prints and it's geared with a 3:1 ratio so you can use a small stepper.
Also the filament path is fairly well constrained so it prints TPU without problems.

[Anonymous No.2025462]

>>2025445
BMG clone from aliexpress for $9

[Anonymous No.2025464]

I've got a pretty much stock Ender 3V2 and want to try out wood PLA filament. What do I need to change? Do I just need a different nozzle and I'm good to go?

[Anonymous No.2025473]

>>2025392
No. The belt is too rough and that's the only feasible part you could even use

[Anonymous No.2025485]

>>2025464
Yeah you just need to I use a larger diameter nozzle like a 0.6mm. No need for a wear resistant nozzle like stainless steel. Aparantly wood filament is runny, so try printing at the lowest temp you can and also increase your retraction. At least that's what I read.

[Anonymous No.2025632]

>try out arcwelder in cura
>fucks the geometry up badly
>try the same stl in prusaslicer
>fucks it up as well
can anyone spoonfeed me on how to use that add-on correctly? I'm using stock profiles on both slicers and am running the latest stable marlin on my e3p. shits already fucked when I open the gcode in a preview program

[Anonymous No.2025645]

Getting fucky stringing on stock extruder direct drive build ender 3 with these settings.
Any ideas where I messed up?

[Anonymous No.2025647]

>>2025632
do you have a reason to use arcwelder?
this is not an improvement but a bandaid for lower amounts of move commands when you print over usb and got a slow board.

[Anonymous No.2025670]

>>2025645
What filament, nozzle type, and nozzle temperature?

[Anonymous No.2025680]

>>2025647
after the 2nd skr 1.4t fried itself i'm back to the 8bit 1.1.5 creality board and i'm printing via usb

[Anonymous No.2025690]

>printing full plate of deck boxes on CR-10
>BLtouch works a treat, great first layers
>go to bed
>wake up to two pieces losing adhesion
>spaghetti everywhere
>broke BLtouch probe too
>BLtouch out of stock or overpriced

[Anonymous No.2025702]

>>2025690
post pic of BLTouch

[Anonymous No.2025727]

>>2025456
>>2025457
>>2025462
Cheers, anons.

[Anonymous No.2025738]

So with your guys BLTouches, do you also run a Z endstop switch? I'm concerned about the probe failing and my hotend crashing into my build plate. Where do I mount the endstop switch, just on the side where it was originally? I moved mine to the hotend a couple of weeks ago.

[Anonymous No.2025748]

>only room for my 3d printer is next to my bed
I've heard prints often take hours upon hours to complete, is this going to destroy my ability to sleep without earplugs? Are my flatmates also going to hear it?

[Anonymous No.2025749]

>>2025738
The BLtouch plugs into the Z endstop port so I don't know how you'd run both a BLtouch and a Z endstop.

[Anonymous No.2025755]

>>2025738
>>2025749
Some boards have a dedicated BLtouch port separate from the Z-stop. I run both, since I only really use the BLtouch for updating the bed mesh. Shit's cash.

[Anonymous No.2025759]

>>2025748
the sound depends entirely on the printer but sleeping next to all of the plastic fumes is going to rot your brain so theres that.

If you actually do go through with this idea, you're going to want a fan blowing over your bed providing fresh air at all times. This will also completely mask any noise the printer might make, should your parents really be that concerned.

[Anonymous No.2025790]

>>2025759
>the plastic fumes is going to rot your brain
With PLA? I'll set up a VOC sensor regardless I guess, but I didn't think it would be an issue. Should I consider putting a plastic bag over the top of it, or would that be bad for thermal reasons?
>a fan blowing over your bed providing fresh air at all times
I guess I can try and get a fan.

[Anonymous No.2025829]

>>2025748
I have one inside my closet near my bed. Earplugs are necessary. Didn't notice any fumes though.

[Anonymous No.2025841]

>>2025790
PLA smells nice but I wouldn't sleep with it in the air all night. And yeah it'll keep you up for sure. Build an enclosure at least.

[Anonymous No.2025847]

>>2025759
>the sound depends entirely on the printer but
none of them are quiet enough to sleep beside.

FTFY

[Anonymous No.2025852]

>>2025645
Longer and faster retraction. By like double. 5mm and 40-45mm/s is a starting point.

[Anonymous No.2025858]

>>2025670
PLA 1.75, 0.4mm nozzle, 210 my temp power came out stunning.

[Anonymous No.2025868]

>>2025749
Creality 4.2.2 board

>>2025755
Great, thanks for the info. What bed leveling method do you use? I think I want to use UBL but I don't know if it is usable with the BLTouch or not, I see a lot of people using bilinear I think.

[Anonymous No.2025871]

>>2025462
Link? I can only find triangle lab's one on aliexpress for $15

[Anonymous No.2025883]

>>2025868
>Creality 4.2.2 board
That one comes with the 3 pins for power and deployment of the probe but the probe output itself still connects to the Z endstop port.

[Anonymous No.2025884]

>>2024142
I ran out of effort making mine fit, I didn't know they made a bracket for it. I decided to mount mine backwards so I didnt lose as much printable area at the back of my bed.
Its a shitty idea trying to fit so much mass where just the hotend would usually live.
With a bit of extra design this could have been a good product.

[Anonymous No.2025885]

>>2025748
I love the sounds my printer makes. It's like some neat and ever changing yet somewhat similar 8-bit music. It's hard to describe but I find it very enjoyable.

[Anonymous No.2025889]

>>2025858
Try Teaching Tech's retraction tuning guide. It's quick to print and really helpful.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction

[Anonymous No.2025898]

>>2025883
Ah shit, OK well I guess I just get to use the one then. Thanks for the info. Probably not a way to get them both to work. I'll just have to pay close attention while setting it up.

[Anonymous No.2025904]

Is it possible to run some LED lights off of the Ender 3 Pro power supply? I got a bunch of single 5W LED lights I can use or I have one of those LED light strips. The strip is 12V and it has its own power supply, but the other LEDs are just the bulbs.

[Anonymous No.2025907]

>>2025904
yes.

[Anonymous No.2025908]

>>2025690
That's what you get for buying a chinksy printer.

[Anonymous No.2025909]

>>2025884
I also tried that configuration but it blocks that arm for loading the filament. The plate they sold with it doesn't seem much better. There has to be something I'm missing that I hope I can resolve after they send me a picture or video. Also I think you could probably get some kind of refund through aliexpress, if you're inclined

[Anonymous No.2025913]

>>2025884
>Its a shitty idea trying to fit so much mass where just the hotend would usually live.
This actually one of the lighter solutions. Others require the original stepper motor to be mounted on top

[Anonymous No.2025914]

>>2025884
from the looks this is a really shit design desu
the hotend mounts with 5 points of contact to the cooler.
a standard e3d v6 dumps about 3Watts into the coldend without plastic inside,
If pic related uses stainless as mounting bolts id expect it in the region of 10W

[Anonymous No.2025915]

>switch PLA
>usual brand
>new color
>won't stick for shit
>up bed temp
>refresh tape
>won't stick for shit

I know glue, hairspray, etc. but I've never had a filament just not stick on the brim. I can't even get through the brim. Could it be the gcode somehow? It's a new model I sliced but it failed six times in a row on the brim, it just peels right up like nothing.

Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.2025923]

>>2025884
that looks really heavy...

[Anonymous No.2025924]

>>2025909
Yeah, ill be taking a carbide burr to the loading arm on mine so it has space to move and clears the bolts heads that hold the rollers on the back, the arm seems beefy enough to survive some metal loss.
>>2025913
I would imagine a plastic BMG and a pancake stepper would be lighter, i'm not sure. As it stands this thing is 298g.
>>2025914
Its assembled in a way that the heatbrake inside has few connections to the metal structure of the extruder, and the main body is covered in fins for more surface area, but then its got a warm stepper motor bolted to the side of it too.

[Anonymous No.2025926]

>>2025852
15 min into 5mm and 45mm/s

[Anonymous No.2025927]

>>2025889
Great resource, thanks!

[Anonymous No.2025939]

>>2025923
I'll weigh it when I'm finished, as it stands the extruder, motor and bracket together feel a little heavier than a standard stepper motor by itself.
I'll be going dual z and decreasing print speed most likely.

[Anonymous No.2025991]

>Print this level test thingiverse.com/thing:2987803
>All four corners look good so far as I can tell, maybe even a bit close
>Middle still has gaps like the nozzle is too far away
I don't get it. Is my 3's glass bed warped? Do I just need to try raising it anyway?

[Anonymous No.2026022]

>>2025889
Thanks, I'm saved

[Anonymous No.2026025]

>>2025991
try shimming the glass bed maybe? Put a folded up sheet of paper under the very middle, might help.

Thin glass panes are more flexible than you might think. They have a tiny bit of give to them.

[Anonymous No.2026033]

>>2025915
It could be that the bed isn't level in that spot maybe. Move the model and try that. Won't hurt much since it's just a brim test. If that fails, I'd try a different slicer. Maybe the nozzle is too far from the build plate too, you could try babystepping Z and see if that works. But do one troubleshooting step at a time so you can keep track and identify the solution.

[Anonymous No.2026062]

wanted to make a hook for my headset, it weighs 1.3kg. 2mm walls were enough to hold it up but were deforming after a while, made 3 versions before switching to 5mm. i'm surprised with how well the 2mm ones held up though, first one i fucked up the inner measurement but it actually because a design feature as going with a right angle caused it to slide off

[Anonymous No.2026067]

Sorta tempted to get into this hobby, what's the chance my printer becomes a dust magnet and I waste 400 dollars like I did to fpv drone stuff? Id like to make parts for miniature models like gundams, etc... and other random knickknacks. looking at the ender 3 pro or V2, don't want a resin printer as that seems like way too much work

[Anonymous No.2026070]

>>2026062
the more I look at those prints the more I question how the fuck you managed to print that. Did you have to use supports?

[Anonymous No.2026072]

>>2026067
if you aren't bothered to keep it maintained, it will fall out of use. however if you find things to print and enjoy to process, it will become an invaluable tool. get the ender3 v2
>>2026070
printed on it's side with support

[Anonymous No.2026073]

Been getting the hang of printing PETG, and it feels like I have hit a wall. All my last few prints have either failed or looked like this. I've tried fixing the Z axis and tightening everything and the quality still seems to be declining. Any idea what could be causing it?

[Anonymous No.2026078]

>>2026067
For miniatures of any kind you really want resin, and in practice it surprisingly feels like much less work than FDM because the results to effort ratio is so much higher

[Anonymous No.2026092]

>>2026073
What's your printer?

[Anonymous No.2026100]

>>2026092
Ender 3 Pro

[Anonymous No.2026102]

>>2026100
Check your hotend. See if the tube hasn't melted inside. You might want to order some capricorn tube and print the hotend fix if you haven't already.

If it's not that, then maybe your spool has absorbed humidity.

[Anonymous No.2026103]

>>2026102
I'd opened the spool the night before so I don't think that's it. I'll take a look at the hotend though, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2026107]

>>2026078
im not going for /tg/ miniatures anon. the stuff il be working isnt that teeny tiny, the first pic I posted is 1/60. Plus once I tone in the FDM setting, im basically set right? id take that over cleaning resin and washing parts in IPA then disposing of it at a waste facility, etc....

[Anonymous No.2026108]

Hello friends. I've been experimenting with my Ender 3 Pro for about a week and have had a great time. I have hit a snag in my upgrade process and could use some guidance. I've got an Ender 3 Pro with the v2.2.4 mainboard in it. I also have a BLTouch coming for it later this week. I'm having a hard time finding a good tutorial on installation; a lot of things seem to be for the Ender 3 Pro V2 which I believe uses a completely different firmware. I have seen a lot of people talking about using custom firmware for their printer, which seems pretty neat, but I am still really new at this and I don't even know what features I would want from a custom firmware. Right now, I just want to be able to install my BLTouch and use it without frying my board or scraping the shit out of my new build surface. It doesn't help that it seems like there are several versions of the BLTouch and now I am somewhat unsure that I picked the right one. I think I ordered a V3.1. The webpage said it was compatible with my mainboard but now I don't know.

[Anonymous No.2026113]

>>2025392
Carlos!

[Anonymous No.2026150]

Anyone here dabble with 3d printed guns, where legal of course?

[Anonymous No.2026165]

>>2026108
It is compatible with your board (4.2.2 btw ). You absolutely have to flash new firmware if you want the BLTouch to work. It's just how it is. It's actually a pretty straightforward process, but it does require certain PC software and an above retard technical ability to look at the code and modify that before compiling it and flashing to your printer.
It's scary at first, but you can't fuck it up. There is no way to ruin the bootloader on your printer, so if your firmware doesn't work, you can always go back to stock. I'm actually about to install a BLTouch on my 4.2.2 board, I guess I could post some screenshot to help you.

[Anonymous No.2026188]

>>2026165
That would be really helpful. I'm just seeing a lot of people talking about pin placement and shit like that. Some people mention having to re-wire the plug/connector. The BLTouch I have coming is a v3.1; is that the same as a 1.3.1?

[Anonymous No.2026202]

>>2026025
You're a legend!

[Anonymous No.2026215]

>>2025311
What’s your fan speed? Ambient temp in the room?

[Anonymous No.2026229]

>>2025885
https://youtu.be/3ofoeu1ndgA?t=63

[Anonymous No.2026231]

Are there any good DIY or chink IDEX printers? I have a Makerbot-like printer and an Ender 3 pro and I think dual material capabilities would be neat to have.
I know Flashforge makes something like this, but they have low Z height and maybe a little more expensive than what I'm ready to spend

[Anonymous No.2026239]

>>2026073
Clean or replace your nozzle, add 5C, and print a little slower.

[Anonymous No.2026263]

>>2026188
V3.1 is the latest BLTouch version, so you are good there.
You are going to need a few things physically and downloaded in order to make this work. So here is a list of things you need:
MicroSD card with ability to copy files from PC to card. With this card, format it as FAT32 and when you use it for firmware, only have the firmware file on it (might not be necessary but thats what I do)
BLTouch plus connecting hardware (the standard comes with only a short cable, you need the adapter to make it work with your board)
We will be installing Marlin Firmware, which is one of a couple of different options for firmware on your printer. It's pretty easy to configure once you get used to it.
A copy of Marlin Firmware from here: https://marlinfw.org/meta/download/ . Downlaod the latest release ZIP. Extract it somewhere easy to find (I use C:\3dprint\firmware)
You need to download the latest version of VSCode (https://code.visualstudio.com/docs/setup/windows)) if you don't have it already. It's kind of a process so I won't type it all out here, but you can follow this guide: https://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install_platformio_vscode.html . Basically, PlatformIO is a tool to use within VisualStudio that lets us easily edit and compile the firmware.
I've already gone through my firmware and enabled/disabled things that I thought were interesting or that I just wanted to try out. For this, I will be using the stock firmware so you can see how its done and that way I can confirm everything works 100% with my BLTouch before I merge this version and the version I am already using.
There is an absolute ton of configurations out there for different 3D printers, we need the one for the Ender 3 Pro. Download the file here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations (click the green button and download ZIP). Extract it to the same 3dprint folder but keep it outside of the Marlin folder.

[Anonymous No.2026273]

>>2026263
So you should have two folders now, \Marlin-2.0.x\ and \Configurations-import-2.0.x\
Navigate into the configurations folder to *\Configurations-import-2.0.x\Configurations-import-2.0.x\config\examples\Creality\Ender-3 Pro\CrealityV422. Copy the contents of the \CrealityV422\ folder and paste it here: \Marlin-2.0.x\Marlin-2.0.x\Marlin . Overwrite the files.
Now open Visual Studio Code. Assuming it is all set up properly, you'll want to click on the alien/ant head thing on the left hand side of the screen. This will open PlatformIO on the right side. Click the "Open Project" button. Navigate to \Marlin-2.0.x/Marlin-2.0.x\ and click the blue "Open 'Marlin-2.0.x'" button. Back on the lefthand side of the screen, you should see Marlin-2.0.x under the Untitled (Workspace) heading. Near the ottom of that list, click on "platformio.ini", it will open on the right. We need to make one change here. Change default_envs from mega2560 to STM32F103RET6_creality. This makes it so we are compiling everything for the right board.
So from this point, the firmware is ready to configure. It's a good idea to test the build and make sure it works. Not really test it on your machine (you can if you want), but test building it in VSCode. Build/compile the firmware by clicking the checkmark on the botton left of the window.
I just did that to mine and of course I get an error. We can check the errors in the console under the Problems tab... OK, we forgot to change define which board we are using in the firmware itself (the previous change was the project file for Platformio[I think]).
So on the left hand side, navigate under Marlin to "Configuration.h". This is the main config file for the firmware.
Scroll down to line 130 and change it from BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB to BOARD_CREALITY_V4. Now we should be ready to build.
I just clicked mine and guess what? Another fucking error.

[Anonymous No.2026279]

>>2026273
OK, no problem. Luckily, the errors give us all the info we need to solve them, where we need to go and what we need to change to make this bullshit work. So it looks like there is an erro under HAL.h about some SERIAL_PORT shit. If we click that, it takes us to HAL.h. Line 85 tells us we need to make a change. So lets go back to Configuartion.h. Do a CTRL+F and search for the variable SERIAL_PORT. The first result is on line 106. We need to change that from a 0 to a one. So the whole line should read "#define SERIAL_PORT 1". Make that change, and lets try to build it again...
And would you look at that, we have a successful build. Now, we can test this firmware out very easily. It compiled OK, so it should have no problems on our printers (hopefully).
Remember that microSD card that we formatted earlier? We are going to put the firmware on that card. The way it works is we put the firmware on the card, put it into our printer, unplug the USB cable, turn it off, wait maybe 10 seconds, and turn it back on. The bootloader will look for the firmware file and load that into the printer. What I've heard is that the printer needs to have a unique filename for each attempt at flashing the firmware, so we don't want to name it something easy like "firmware.bin". Lucky for us, PlatformIO will build the file with a unique name.
Open Windows Explorer. Navigate here: \Marlin-2.0.x\Marlin-2.0.x\.pio\build\STM32F103RET6_creality. This is where the built firmware file is. You need to copy the "firmware-<timestamp>.bin" file to the microSD card. Mine is "firmware-20210209-001331.bin". I just copied that over to the microSD card. Eject the card and put it in your printer. Unplug the USB, turn it off, wait, turn it back on. If everything goes correctly, the screen should be blank for a few moments. Don't panic if it appears to do nothing.

[Anonymous No.2026280]

>Babby's first design is a 10 hour print
Can't wait for this trainwreck to unfold.

[Anonymous No.2026281]

>>2026279
Alright, after a couple of minutes, the screen is still blank. Great, that means we forgot something... At this point, you might be scared and thinking that you bricked the machine but the bootloader will save us.
Gonna take me a bit to try and remember what the hell I did the first time to get it working. Don't worry, I took detailed notes!

[Anonymous No.2026284]

>>2026280
What's your infill at? How big is it?

[Anonymous No.2026287]

>>2026281
This same thing happened to me before. I forgot to copy the files from the configurations ZIP to the Marlin folder. Too busy focused on typing this shit out and not actually doing it...
Anyways, lets go back a few steps lol.
After copying the files from \Configurations-import-2.0.x\Configurations-import-2.0.x\config\examples\Creality\Ender-3 Pro\CrealityV422 to \Marlin-2.0.x\Marlin-2.0.x\Marlin try to build it. I got some errors when I tried mine (of course).
In the error tab, there are a couple of errors.
One of the errors is a really annoying warning. Lets comment that shit out because it just clogs the screen with its bullshit. Go to line 678 in Configuration.h and add a "//" to the beginning of the line. That will basically make the code not active.
The other error, I'm not sure but I think it might be Marlin's fault, or the people who actually control the project. The error is "identifier "HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY" is undefined". The only way I have found to make this error go away is by doing this:
Go to line 1518 in Configuration.h and add this in:
Line 1518: (empty)
Line 1519: // add old values format
Line 1520: (empty)
Line 1521: #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50 * 60)
Line 1522: #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (4 * 60)
Line 1523: (empty)
Obviously don't add the "Line 1518" to the line... Now we try to build it again.
Success!
Now, go back to the .pio\build\STM32F103RET6_creality folder. There should be a new firmware.bin file in there. Mine says "firmware-20210209-004831.bin" so I know its a new file (I think the old one goes away anyways, I usually make a seperate copy as a backup just in case though). Copy that file to the microSD card,load it into the printer and restart it.
I did on mine and, what do you know, it actually worked this time.
Now to figure out how to actually connect the BLTouch to the machine.

[Anonymous No.2026295]

>>2026287
Alright, so we know that the new firmware works on the printer. But, it's not set up at all, its basically the stock Marlin firmware. We need to make some changes to it before we can actually use the BLTouch.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention one really important thing. YOU NEED A MOUNT FOR THE BLTOUCH! So if you haven't printed one yet, go find one and print it. There are a lot of options. I went with a very simple one. I have a V6 hotend though so it won't really work with the stock Ender 3 Pro configuration. The fan shroud/box will be in the way.
If I was going to print one for the stock hotend, I'd probably go with this one as it is simple and easy to print: thing:3003725
Or I would go with this one (same creator, this one is adjustable): thing:3148733
If you plan on upgrading to a different hotend or cooling solution in the future, just print something quick and easy to get you through until then.
I'm going to see if I can figure out how to connect the BLTouch to everything now. Wish me luck... When I come back, I will have some very basic changes we need to make to the configuration.h file to make the probe work and maybe a couple of QoL changes in the firmware that I recommend. We can do the stuff to get the BLTouch working first and then do the quality changes though just to make sure the BLTouch works. Don't want to change too much at once or you might break something.

[Anonymous No.2026296]

>>2026284
Infill is at 15% cubic and it's something like 140X80X65. Layer height is .16 for extra smoothness and my print speed is only 60, though. I haven't gotten to messing with that last one much yet.

[Anonymous No.2026304]

>>2026295
>>2026188
Ah who am I kidding, I don't know what the fuck I'm doing.
Watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neS7lB7fCww&t=286s
TeachingTech describes the process in a much better way. He knows exactly what to do. So follow his guide, you'll get it installed no problem. If you have any questions though, just post them here, I'm sure someone will help you.

[Anonymous No.2026470]

>>2026150
I print fuel filters and fuel filter accessories.

[Anonymous No.2026474]

Recently got a BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V1.2 for my ender 3 pro, using it for an ender extender kit.
Went to update the firmware and it continuously refused to update even though the only thing i changed in the latest update was the bed size to be 400 x 400
Is there something I am missing or a proper way to update this piece of shit?

[Anonymous No.2026476]

>>2026150
sorry, no. i lost my 3d printer in a horrible go karting mishap.

[Anonymous No.2026486]

>>2026107
1/60 is what, 35mm scale? Those are minis my dude. Even the best FDM prints I have ever seen have noticeable lines. You want resin for this application.

Washing the parts with a toothbrush is easy, and all the waste management you have to do is to set the container of dirty IPA out on the porch when you are done with it. The sun cures the resin and the IPA evaporates. Then the container goes in the trash. Takeout containers are great for this.

[Anonymous No.2026489]

>>2026474
Assuming you are using VSCode, did you change the environment in platformio.ini and the motherboard in configuration.h?

[Anonymous No.2026506]

>>2026107
>basically set right?
nope. FDM paints like shit no matter the size. you can probably sand but I can't imagine how that much sanding would make it worth not fucking with resin.

[Anonymous No.2026515]

Have any of you guys printed this model before? Did you think it would look good in the Marble
PLA? With that PLA, do you have to use a >.4mm nozzle? What are the flecks in the PLA? What's a good brand for that stuff?

[Anonymous No.2026520]

>>2026506
I though PLA took acrylic paint really well? To get rid of the layer lines, one could try that special PLA that you anneal by putting in boiling water for 10 minutes. There aren't many brands for that stuff though but they have it on MatterHackers .

[Anonymous No.2026521]

>>2026506
I dont know man, this looks pretty good

[Anonymous No.2026524]

>>2026521
If you're using them as board game pieces, sure. I would hate to put any amount of effort into painting that thing though. They get better but I have no idea how much time it would take to tune this

[Anonymous No.2026535]

>>2026489
The only lines i touched were in configuration.h
I changed X_BED_SIZE and Y_BED_SIZE to 400
I did not change the environment, its left as STM32F103RC_btt
I was following this video https://youtu.be/IWC6Gxn-j24

[Anonymous No.2026551]

I bought some TPU and a 3:1 extruder so I can print some stamps. I want the actual stamp part to be smooth, so the stamp would be printed with the stamping part facing the build plate. But what kind of surface would I use for this? I just have the standard magnetic sheet right now, but I don't care if I have to get a glass bed, spring steel, sheet of painter's tape, etc.. What do you guys recommend for TPU and bottom layer smoothness? Is it a dumb idea to print it with the stamp facing down? I could see it being a problem as the base of the stamp is printed, like maybe the material won't bridge well or something like that. I'd probably go with around 1mm for the stamping surface and maybe 4 or 5mm for the base of the stamp.
For a glass surface, where is the best source for the glass? Probably a bad idea to use just window glass, right? Has anyone tried a glass shop? Does the glass have to be tempered? I guess for glass the easiest thing would be to just get Creality's glass.

[Anonymous No.2026607]

>>2026521
You're going to spend ages dialing that in, and ages printing that, since it's a .15mm nozzle. I'd say that print probably took 4-5 hours, if not more. The results are way more likely to look like pic related


>>2026520
>To get rid of the layer lines, one could try that special PLA that you anneal by putting in boiling water
You're confusing annealing with smoothing, and probably thinking of PolySmooth, which you need to mist with alcohol. Annealing is a heat treatment, it (for the most part) won't change how the part looks since the layer lines will still be there

[Anonymous No.2026614]

>>2026521
paint it and get back to me

[Anonymous No.2026616]

>>2026515
no. no. no. flecks. whatever.

[Anonymous No.2026618]

>>2026521
You're going to get slammed for not thinning your paints and it looking like shit because the acrylic will seep between the layers and highlight the ridges I can pretty much guarantee

[Anonymous No.2026621]

>Fire up print
>Go inside to let it run for once instead of autistically watching
>Hang out in the living room instead of my bedroom
>THUNK THUNK THUTHUTHUTHUNK
Balls, can't leave that going overnight. Hope CNC Kitchen's paver+foam trick is enough to stop it.

[Anonymous No.2026639]

So I recently purchased an e3d hemera for my ender 3 pro and am currently looking at 4020 blower fans for part cooling. Any tips or recommendations on brands/designs/etc?

>>2026621
It works really well for preventing your surface from amplifying the noise, but your motors still make a bit of noise if you don't have a silent board.

[Anonymous No.2026644]

I want to build a conveyor belt printer, except not the "infinite" 45 degree version but. I was thinking about putting a belt on a core xy or something like that.
Where can i source a belt that i can just pop on the printer?

[Anonymous No.2026657]

>>2026644
What exactly are you trying to get out of a belt?
You can somewhat get the same thing by having the extruder "smack" the print off the bed so that it clears the buildplate for the next print.

[Anonymous No.2026660]

>>2026657
Have you tried "smacking" off prints with a surface area larger than the palm of your hand?

[Anonymous No.2026661]

>>2026660
That's why I asked what are you trying to get out of a belt. Can't read minds here.

[Anonymous No.2026662]

>>2026616
Why even bother replying?

[Anonymous No.2026663]

Who can show me a good article or video about printer tuning? Specifically the Ender 3 Pro.

I've been printing all sorts of stuff for over 6 months but have never bothered to really set up the printer well.

[Anonymous No.2026666]

>>2026663
This is pretty good shit
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro

[Anonymous No.2026670]

>>2026666
Ah that's quick, will have a look, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2026678]

>>2026639
My advice is not to get the 4020 fans. There are very few models that actually use those for cooling. So unless you plan on designing it yourself, go with 5015.
So find a cooling solution that you like and buy the fans needed to make it work. I did what you did, got the 4020 fans and they are still sitting there doing nothing after like a month. I already got 5015 fans and am working on printing a hotend cooling system that uses those 5020 fans. The ones I went with are the Winsinn brand because they have three versions of the fan, a cheap, cheaper, and more expensive fan version, the "expensive" ones being 4 fans for $20 and they can supposedly run 24/7, whereas the middle fans can only run like 16 hours a day.

[Anonymous No.2026691]

>>2026678
I have found a mount on thingiverse for the 4020 and just decided to go with that, but I am not opposed to using the bigger fans. I heard using more and bigger fans is better for noise, but what about weight? Is it that important to stress about a few more grams? And how is the winsinn brand doing for you?

[Anonymous No.2026706]

There's a bunch of mainboard replacement options out there for the ender 3 (pro), which should I prefer do you think?

[Anonymous No.2026707]

>>2026691
I haven't even had a chance to connect them yet, so I'm not sure how well they blow. I can throw them on a scale in about 5 hours to see what their mass is. My idea was to use some sort of trim pot to control the speed of the fans manually, I heard that even at like half power they still push enough air to cool fine. I think the most worry for hotend weight would be in the stepper motor. I read you can go smaller and use a gearing system to gain some of the torque back. I'm not entirely sure about the Hemera setup I only know it's direct drive.
I guess I could do some sort of weird air flow test by attaching an empty bag to the fan and then seeing how long it takes to fill the bag with air. Kind of ghetto but it would give some useful information. I'll do that tonight, too.

[Anonymous No.2026733]

Has anyone here tried converting their 3d printer to a cheap laser cutter?
I've got this DVD burner sitting here tempting me

[Anonymous No.2026746]

>>2026733
A laser from a DVD drive is not going to cut anything.

[Anonymous No.2026751]

>>2026746
hey now, he might be able to laser cut black vinyl with a RW diode

[Anonymous No.2026760]

>>2026751
He would get better results with a 5$ drag knife.

[Anonymous No.2026805]

>>2026733
I've been wanting to try putting a laser on my ender 3 in order to make circuit boards.

That's not really cutting tho, and I don't think you'll be able to cut very much with just a DVD burner diode, now engraving with one of those things is very much doable, if a bit slow.

[Anonymous No.2026824]

>>2025283
ive finally set up octoprint... feels comfy

[Anonymous No.2026834]

>>2026824
hope you have insurance...

[Anonymous No.2026840]

>>2026834
For what?

[Anonymous No.2026842]

>>2026834
dont you trust my anet? :)

[Anonymous No.2026846]

>>2026834
Why would I use thermal runaway when all it ever does is stop my printer mid print for no fucking reason?

[Anonymous No.2026847]

>>2026824
>posting your IP
heh, nothing personnel kiddo

[Anonymous No.2026848]

>>2026847
dont forget to hax 127.0.0.1

[Anonymous No.2026880]

>>2026662
why bother to ask if you don't want answers.

[Anonymous No.2026881]

>>2026840

[Anonymous No.2026887]

>>2026881
how does firmware protect against hardware failures?

[Anonymous No.2026888]

>>2026887
>hmm this temperature reading isn't going up at all despite me putting maximum power into it
>better cut power just in case the temperature sensor is busted

vs
>not doing that check
>oops melty wires and fires

[Anonymous No.2026889]

>>2026888
hmm... maybe i should upgrade to marlin after all (tho i never leave it unattended)

[Anonymous No.2026897]

>>2026263
>>2026273
>>2026279
>>2026281
>>2026287
>>2026295
>>2026304
Thank you Anon. I'm planning on installing mine this weekend, but I will screen grab your posts and see what all I can use to help me during my installation.
Firmware is a bit intimidating but I am sure I can handle it. I'm a retard, but I'm at least a retard that can follow instructions pretty well. My biggest concerns are still related to the wiring. I actually bought a kit on Amazon since I'm too impatient to wait for shit to come all the way from china, My kit came yesterday so I can get my first look at what came with it. The probe came with a mount, so I'm good there. It also came with a cable; it looks like the cable has a small connector on one end that plugs into the sensor itself and then a larger plug that looks like it'd go right into the port on my 4.2.2 mainboard. I am assuming that it is probably plug and play, but I have seen people talking about having to rewire their connector so that's what caused me to be apprehensive in the first place. What can I do to make sure I don't melt my mainboard? Should I even worry about it if the plugs just fits right in?
This also might pertain more to the firmware, which I haven't even begun to touch, but I have seen people talk about removing the Z axis stop switch. I've also seen talk about using that switch for homing and the BLTouch for leveling. Is that easy to set up? Should I just unplug the stop when it's time and use the probe for everything?

[Anonymous No.2027009]

>>2026691
OK I went ahead and weighed those fans.
I weighed them in the same box.
4x 5015 = 102.76g meaning each fan including the connecting wire weighs 25.69g.
4x 4020 = 87.57g meaning each fan including the connecting wire weighs 21.89g.
Hope this helps!

[Anonymous No.2027015]

I have some 2 year old pla and petg that has been sitting out - is it even worth trying to dry out in the oven?

[Anonymous No.2027026]

>>2027009
Thanks anon, I'll probably go with the 5015 and find a different duct.

[Anonymous No.2027028]

>>2025645
Anybody who regularly uses the word fucky deserves to be dragged through the streets of mogadishu.

[Anonymous No.2027037]

>>2027028
give anonypoo a bweakydoo, he's just having some fucky wucky stwingy pwobwems on his hawtsy watsy diwect dwive

[Anonymous No.2027135]

So my gf (now ex) got me a Creality Ender 3 Pro for Christmas.
Is it worth upgrading? I was thinking to upgrade my hotend for higher temperature plastics, upgrading the main board with a Duet board, adding on an extra Z axis motor, etc.

[Anonymous No.2027138]

>>2027135
Yes goy, dumb 300$ in your 150$ machine with no real added benefit

Print and see for yourself if somethings lacking. The 3d community generally gives terrible advice

[Anonymous No.2027140]

>>2027138
Well I did get the printer for free technically speaking.
I've been playing with PLA and it makes some good replacement mechanical parts around the house. I want to print nylon though and other high temp plastics.
Mainly just getting sick of the interface and the SD card wankery. I figure I can just get a cheap knockoff board hey?

[Anonymous No.2027142]

>>2027140
High temp plastics tend to need an enclosure and are a bitch to print.
Not like it cant be done but the ender is not an ideal machineframe for this. Thou it will degrade in time, you can print up to 260°c with a teflon lined hotend and it gives the best print results

The display if by far the most hazzle free way of operating, give it some time. Everything else adds bloat

[Anonymous No.2027145]

>>2027135
>my gf (now ex)
>christmas
that didn't last long

[Anonymous No.2027147]

>>2027145
Lasted long enough for him to get a free printer, and that's what matters.

[Anonymous No.2027150]

>>2027142
Thanks for the pointers. Obviously I need to read up more on high temp plastics before I sink my teeth into it. I think I'll stick with pla and abs for now. Maybe play with petg.
The interface I can live with. It's really the SD card I'm tired of and I'd like to just print straight from my PC. Even a flash drive would be preferable.
>>2027145
We were together for a few years prior to breaking up a couple weeks ago.
>>2027147
This man gets it.

[Anonymous No.2027154]

>>2026888
>hmm printer is working fine, been about 10 hours so print is close to done
>let's throw the thermal runaway error
>oh yeah you can't resume like you do on power loss because it's thermal runaway not power loss, throw away the print and try again goy :^)
>restart printer, everything works fine
Fuck off you marlin shill you have no idea what you're talking about.
Hours upon hours of searching for a problem that doesn't exist and wasting lots of filament because if it finished or not was up to some fucking firmware dice roll.
The solution was so obvious I missed it at first. Now that I disabled that crap feature I can print continuously without any problems.

[Anonymous No.2027168]

>>2025926
On my direct drive I'm at 1.2 and 27. You don't need near as much as you do for bowden.

[Anonymous No.2027169]

>>2027154
There's a sensitivity setting IIRC

[Anonymous No.2027187]

>>2027169
shh let him burn his shack down

[Anonymous No.2027191]

>>2027135
Buy a bltouch or clone, best upgrade I ever made. Next up a new board with silent drivers and a silent fan so I can print at night.

[Anonymous No.2027196]

>>2027191
new here, how much better than a microswitch are they? surely you could 3d print a lever extension for a microswitch to get higher precision if necessary

[Anonymous No.2027201]

>>2027169
I tried that and it got to the point where I could unplug the thermistor and the runaway would take 30 seconds to trip but it still tripped during the print without any reason. If it really was something wrong and the temperature would have increased a lot during a print then it would have been visible in the lines leading up to the point it stopped. At very high temperatures the extruded plastic would start to darken or vaporize, but I never saw signs of such things occurring.

>>2027187
ebin meme bro I r8 8/8

I hope you realize that if it really was a problem with my printer I'd have:
-died in a house fire
-found my toolhead half baked
-found a problem with the heater, thermistor or wiring while looking for why the thermal runaway kept tripping
If either of those were true I wouldn't be here complaining about some crap ass "let's fuck your print up" diceroll setting in the firmware.

[Anonymous No.2027211]

>>2027154
I'm not the fag who does this every thread, but I have to say, just this once, unironically,
>should have bought a Prusa

also
>disabled that crap feature
looking forward to the inevitable housefire. There's no setting that says "when X equals 5, fuck up anon's print"

[Anonymous No.2027217]

>>2027211
There's no hardware issue that would cause the runaway to trip either or I would have known by now. I went from 3-4 runaway trips per day to 1-2 successful prints per day. Been running it for a month like this and everything is fine. And again, I checked everything up the ass and back, I could not find anything wrong. I even replaced the wires just to be safe, but it did not affect it at all.

>should have bought a Prusa
I unironically agree with this now.
If someone told me I'd have firmware problems like this I would have stayed away from chinkshit. Everyone here says the Ender only needs hardware fixes, but they don't talk about the firmware at all.
Now I see there's a reason for which Prusa doesn't use open source garbage firmware.

[Anonymous No.2027218]

>>2027217
If you're too dumb to flash firmware you should look for another hobby.

[Anonymous No.2027219]

>>2027218
If you're too dumb to realize the Ender 3 does not come with thermal runaway enabled you shouldn't join this discussion.

[Anonymous No.2027222]

>>2027217
Its called pid tune

[Anonymous No.2027266]

How do I improve my top finish? I tried ironing but that's even worse. I think my nozzle is slightly slanted, I'm going to correct that.

Does polishing the tip of the nozzle makes any difference?

[Anonymous No.2027277]

>>2025871
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001250706492.html

[Anonymous No.2027286]

ok so i a have a Prusa Mini and i did few prints just fine, but for some time i have this issue, first layer is no sticking to bed and is crooked as on picture.
I was trying to print enclosure for an Arduino clone.
I have tried several calibration models and no calibration issue. Im starting to be sad

[Anonymous No.2027287]

>>2027286
Should have bought an Ender.

[Anonymous No.2027288]

this is look from another point of view

[Anonymous No.2027289]

>>2027287
Thanks for the info, next time maybe

[Anonymous No.2027335]

Mobile posting and don’t have a pic, but what’s the cause of my ender randomly making 2-3 layers at a time wider than they’re supposed to be? It’s not a layer shift in a single axis, but it’s like an elephant’s foot in the middle of a print that is visible around the entire print. I thought it was maybe just an inconsistency in the filament diameter but I’ve been keeping an eye on it and it will be consistent through the entire layer no matter how large it is, and after a few layers will return back to normal, and I feel like if it was the filament diameter then there should be occasions where only part of a single layer is different and not consistently entire layers

[Anonymous No.2027337]

>>2027286
>I'm too retarded to operate a printer with auto bed leveling
Lower the Z offset

[Anonymous No.2027342]

>>2027286
On large prints you should use brims. I had this problem and the only thing that fixed for me was brims, the larger the print, the larger the brim.
I think it's just lack of adhesion combined with filament contracting on the top layers, causing it to warp. Brims stop this.
>>2027287
I have an ender. This happens to me too.
>>2027337
This could help with the adhesion, but might not fix it entirely. I have a bltouch so leveling is not an issue, it seems it would happen more often when the bed was set to 50C instead of 60.

[Anonymous No.2027344]

>>2027342
Forgot to mention, wash your bed with alcohol before every print. That's the most important step to achieve good adhesion.

[Anonymous No.2027345]

>>2027266
Change surface pattern to lines, pattern direction to [90, 0], increase surface overlap to 50% and decrease top layer line width to 0.36mm/ 90%
>>2027135
upgrade whatever you need to remove limits you run into, just upgrading for the sake of upgrading isn't worth it.
>>2027191
my bltouch clone died the other week and I didn't bother hooking the replacement one up to my e3p again. at first I was hyped too but it works perfectly fine with a z-endstop too. a bmg-clone and something like a volcano hotend are better upgrades imo

[Anonymous No.2027349]

>>2027345
>it works perfectly fine with a z-endstop too
Sadly I've got a Bender 3, so I am extremely biased.

[Anonymous No.2027357]

>>2027135
>Is it worth upgrading?
Seems like it would have been but you dumped her instead.

[Anonymous No.2027358]

>>2027344
fresh painters tape ftw
if I wanted to alcohol wash I'd have a resin printer

[Anonymous No.2027425]

How durable is wood filament? Could I make a arcade fightstick with it or is it too brittle or something to smash combos on? Or could I make a handle for something out of it?

[Anonymous No.2027431]

>>2027425
Couldn't you do something like print one with a channel for you to thread a bolt or something through?

[Anonymous No.2027437]

>>2027425
It's exactly like any other PLA - meaning you'll get more variation between brands of PLA than between wood and not-wood PLA.

You would have to print along the shaft instead of up, but I imagine you could make a joy stick out of it just fine. Annealing would make a difference with normal PLA (esp if you print concentric up so sheer lines are circular) and I'm not sure how wood PLA reacts to annealing but I bet salt annealing would work and sanding/staining salt annealed PLA would probably be tight.

[Anonymous No.2027461]

>>2027337
its sad but true, im actually too retarded to operate Z offset

>>2027342
will try to play more with Z axis and briming, im using technical alcohol before every print

thanks anons

[Anonymous No.2027477]

>>2026897
Holy fuck, what a pain in the ass!
So the process after getting the firmware open is basically mount the BLTouch to the mount you printed, run the wires, to the motherboard, and then plug that shit in. The 4.2.2 board does have a port dedicated to the BLTouch. If you are looking at the board with the end stop switch ports nearest to you, it's at about 2 or 3 o'clock. It's a 5-pin port. The first 3 pins are the comms pins and the last 2 pins are the switch pins. The switch pins have the same functionality as the endstop pins.
Seems like people would rather set up the switch pins unused on the BLTouch port and use just the Z end stop switch port instead. The end result is the same, but there is less coding if you do it at the Z end stop switch port instead of on the BLTouch port. There might be another reason why people do it like that. I would like to have both an end stop switch and the BLTouch working just in case the BLTouch fails but I haven't really looked into it yet to see how it's done...
So the BLTouch kit that I bought came with two ~1m extensions. The end with just the white connector goes to the BLTouch and the end with two plugs (3-pinand 2-pin) goes to the motherboard. For whatever reason, the connectors on the extension wire are NOT the same as the connectors on the board.
You can still plug them in, but they will not fit snuggly, meaning they can be pulled out accidently. Some people get around this by dabbing a bit of hot glue on the connector once plugged in. I'm just going to change the connector to the right JST connector so I don't have to fuck with that.
I spent a good two hours messing with this last night. The hardest part for me was trying to get the damn thing plugged in. It would have been simple if everything had the same connector but it's not that way. It's a simple enough procedure to swap out the plug if you have the right kit. I have one coming today so that's the route I'm going to take.
>pic related

[Anonymous No.2027480]

>>2026897
So in the picture here >>2027477 we see both types of extension cables that comes with the two cable pack (I don't know which one you bought). The red connector actually plugs into the end stop switch port just fine. So really you can use either cable, it doesn't matter as long as all the wires are hooked up the same.
>pic related, using the BLTouch port with the Z end stop switch port

[Anonymous No.2027546]

>>2027217
>Now I see there's a reason for which Prusa doesn't use open source garbage firmware.

"Prusa uses a variation of Marlin, which is a popular open-source firmware."

To my knowledge, even Creality uses some form of Marlin. What you should say is that Prusa implements Marlin in a much better way, which I would agree with. However, I would also agree with >>2027218 . Unless you're just one of the people that only prints other peoples' designs, your mental aptitude is probably such that flashing a new firmware with all the new bits and bobs isn't a challenge. New Ender 3's even come with bootloader, so all you need to do drop the firmware on an SD card.

Prusa resides in the category of, if the extra $500 seems worth it to not have to deal with flashing your own firmware and fixing small initial issues, then get it. I'm also assuming their customer service is better, in other words, existent.

Personally for me, that $500 is better spent elsewhere, doing things like improving it to printer higher temp/abrasive filaments, mains heated bed, building a drybox, enclosure, venting, and doing all the other small things that add up. My time investment in getting the initial printer to a good place in no way equals $500 for me, though that varies from person to person.

[Anonymous No.2027564]

>>2027266
Looks like you might be overextruding your top layers

[Anonymous No.2027603]

Couldn't find an enclosure for my CR-10 max, so I built one myself. Still have to get some velcro for the flap door, will report back once it is completely done.

Don't judge, i did my best okay??? :(

[Anonymous No.2027607]

>>2027603
move the filament holder off the top, otherwise it looks like a good start for an enclosure anon

[Anonymous No.2027610]

>>2027603
1. print a ruler use it to score the foam, snap for clean line
2. print some corner clips or something to assemble
3. use light magnets instead of velcro for front flap

ngl, it's worse looking right side up. still better than no enclosure.

[Anonymous No.2027613]

>>2027607
No way of doing that unfortunately

[Anonymous No.2027615]

>>2027610
Lil too late for that first one, but I'll print some clips n stuff

[Anonymous No.2027617]

>>2027613
there's always a way when you can print your own attachments

[Anonymous No.2027624]

>>2027617
I mean anyone else could move the top down to the top of the printer gantry and it would be instantly solved, but looking at OPs cuts and fitment I'd be scared for him to try it.

[Anonymous No.2027666]

Outside of figurines what else are resin printers good for?

[Anonymous No.2027667]

>>2027666
Printing miniatures

nice satan trips

[Anonymous No.2027671]

>>2027666
their prints are probably stronger too

[Anonymous No.2027684]

>>2027603
>Barely capable of making a literal box.
>Fuck Creality!

[Anonymous No.2027692]

>>2025283
Where can I find 3d models from video games?

[Anonymous No.2027707]

>>2027692
google.com

[Anonymous No.2027719]

>>2027546
>I'm also assuming their customer service is better, in other words, existent.
It's excellent so long as you don't mind slightly bad english.

[Anonymous No.2027732]

Is it possible to smooth water soluble materials with water vapor or briefly dipping it in water? Or is surface going to degrade right away?

[Anonymous No.2027734]

Biden being a faggot and shutting down the oil fields isn't going to effect the prices of 3D filaments, will it?

[Anonymous No.2027741]

>>2026067
It's something for which enthusiasm that comes and goes, but they're damn useful when you need them and I've never once regretted getting either an FDM or resin printer (I just wish I'd waited a bit longer before getting my mars pro and got a saturn or similar).

[Anonymous No.2027743]

>>2027734
is it Biden's fault for my diarrhea?

[Anonymous No.2027746]

>>2027734
No, PLA is made from corn starch.

[Anonymous No.2027776]

>>2027603
I swear they sell them on their store

[Anonymous No.2027836]

>>2026022
At that point I'd blame the filament. I have pla that refuses to behave. Other pla, same retraction, perfect gentleman.

[Anonymous No.2027860]

>>2027692
Depends on the game. Some of them with rich nodding communities will have a lot of the models available just out there. Other ones you might have to extract the models from. It can be quite the process depending on the game. And then there is no guaranteeing that the model will be good though because they were designed to be displayed, not printed. Which games were you thinking?

[Anonymous No.2027901]

>>2027477
>>2027480
In case anyone is curious, the connector type on the motherboard for the BLTouch port and the axis ports are JST-XH. They have kits available with 2-pin to 6-pin male and female available for less than $15.

[Anonymous No.2027908]

>>2027344
>wash your bed with alcohol before every print
sounds like a big hassle. I just lightly mist hair spray over the bed before every print.

[Anonymous No.2027971]

anons after upgrading to the yellow springs on my ender 3 v2 i cannot for the life of me get the bed to lvl now
it almost feels like it warped my glass bed more then it was before

[Anonymous No.2027982]

>>2027971
Shim your glass bed with some paper then. Glass panes have a certain amount of give to them, they're not absolutely rigid objects.

[Anonymous No.2027985]

>>2027335
On a print that's tall enough, does it happen more than once? If so, how many mm are between these fat layers?

[Anonymous No.2027993]

>>2027982
thanks anon ill give that a shot
this makes me want to just get a bltouch and be done with this autism

[Anonymous No.2028013]

>>2027741
I think il get one then after i finish up my current project, thanks for the insight, is it worth getting the v2 over the pro for 70 leaf bucks though?

[Anonymous No.2028023]

>>2026607
>You're confusing annealing with smoothing
Hmmm, I was under the impression that when you annealed the plastic that the layer lines went away. I swear I read the other day that HTPLA annealed via the boiling water method removed layer lines. I'll admit, I haven't tried it myself.

[Anonymous No.2028084]

Gentlemen, behold: I have made a thing.

I was gifted one of those Cup Call things you see on TV which, in my opinion, go beyond being useless and into the realm of being dangerous because in most cars they make you take your eyes way off the road and down to your knees or worse. No way I was using it in my car, but, y'know, it was a gift so I put it on my desk instead. Problem is it's wobbly to the point of being unusable, so I opened up FreeCAD for the first time and jury-rigged myself a base. Were I not an autist posting on /diy/ I'd have to acknowledge that this was a waste of time and effort, but I am a /diy/ autist so I'll enjoy the sense of accomplishment, even though the result is simple.

[Anonymous No.2028100]

What do you guys think about the Annex K2, it's a cartesian XY (CroXY) printer. It goes pretty fast, I just ordered the parts to build it (well most parts). 350x350x350 build area. Up to 400mms with 20k accels. More reasonable is 250mms with 14k accels.

[Anonymous No.2028104]

>>2027135
My 2 cents on good upgrades:
Skr mini e3 V2 (or Fysetc S6 + drivers) (30$ IIRC, and ties with the BLtouch for the upgrade "worthyness" the damn thing is so much more silet.)
Bltouch clone from trianglelabs (15$ IIRC, and one of the best upgrades I did)
Possibly upgrade to a BMG clone (also from TL because the original one is hot garbage) (30$)
Possibly upgrade to a TL clone V6 (24$)
Buy 2 5015/5020 fans from Ali (recommended by the hero me gen 5 toolhead)
Buy some screws
Print the Hero me Gen 5
Use a glass plate for 20 bucks from creality if you don't have one
Build an enclosure if you can on the cheap for printing ABS
And last one but a pretty good upgrade, run an orange pi 2 lite or an orange pi lite with Klipper if you can manage that. Then you can use input shaping to remove ghosting artifacts.

I did almost all except the Klipper upgrade.

[Anonymous No.2028111]

>>2028100
Does not look like a very optimizied design.

Does the bed really need 4020 extrusions and moved with 3 steppers?

[Anonymous No.2028113]

>>2028111
It can print at different angles anon

[Anonymous No.2028116]

>>2028104
The SKR Mini E3 is prone to burning its drivers when running at really high speeds.
I'd get the SKR 1.4 if possible. It's more expensive but you can swap out the drivers if one of them an heroes. Also supports dual Z motors if that's your thing.

[Anonymous No.2028120]

>>2028113
Is there even software that makes use of that?
You can't just use a shifted z axis like a belt printer because that would lead to collisions.

[Anonymous No.2028131]

>>2028104
Klipper is on fact amazing. Made some serious change on ringing

[Anonymous No.2028132]

>>2028111
it's one of the most high end diy designs out there actually. And the bed auto levels that's why it's the 3 steppers. 3 points make a plane.
>>2028113
incorrect
>>2028116
Didn't know that, mine are still good.
>>2028131
Yeah klipper is the shit

[Anonymous No.2028135]

>>2028132
>Didn't know that, mine are still good.
It all depends on how fast you're printing and where you keep the board.
The E3Pro's original board box has bad cooling, couple this with the really high speeds klipper users often use and you can damage or destroy those drivers via overheating.

[Anonymous No.2028144]

Previously I've talked about having some weird temperature issues like the hotend not being able to heat up above 180 C when the fan was on and being really slow to heat up and severely degrading filament resulting in a horrid smelling smoke with PLA.
Well the new thermistor came today and I tried replicating the fan issue and was able to heat up the printer to 300 C without any issues...
This means that I've been printing PLA for quite some time at 300 C, thank god nothing bad happened.

[Anonymous No.2028146]

THIS POST WAS MADE BY STOIC GANG

[Anonymous No.2028151]

>>2028132
>>2028131
can you maybe post a printer.cfg for an e3p?
I tried klipper several times, never got it running correctly
>install on rpi4, flash creality 1.1.5. board
>calibrate steps
>run pid autotune
>nothing sticks to the bed
>flash to marlin, use the same gcode file
>prints flawlessly
dunno what I else I could do, not even using a abl-sensor anymore

[Anonymous No.2028169]

>>2027191
>He can't sleep with his printer running at max volume
Absolute plebian

[Anonymous No.2028206]

>>2026506
Im thinking of finally getting a resin printer. Have either the elegoo or the anycubic pulled ahead of the other in terms of performance or features since they first came out or are they still more or less comparable? To anons who have them which do you prefer?

[Anonymous No.2028208]

>>2028206
>>2026506
Did not mean to reply to this

[Anonymous No.2028209]

>>2028104
>Use a glass plate for 20 bucks from creality if you don't have one
Once you have the bltouch you might as well get a PEI spring steel bed which costs about the same
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32928372922.html

[Anonymous No.2028226]

>>2028104
>Use a glass plate for 20 bucks from creality
Creality glass is certifiably shit.
I printed some V slot covers (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3379068)) for my E3 out of ASA on the textured side. Left it to print overnight, when I woke up one of the strips was on the floor and it had come off with a shard of glass stuck to the underside, almost as long as it was.
The rest came off very easily. One small nudge and the strip would fly off the bed, taking chunks of glass along with them. The glass was only in use for about 3 months.
I had to resort to printing on the other side because I'm too broke to afford another build plate right now.

[Anonymous No.2028276]

>>2028206
>>2028208
I'll take (You)s any way I can get them. The big brand difference is the way the build plate attaches to the arm: ball and socket or 2 axis. I'm waiting for some big difference to pick one over the other myself- just haven't had a good excuse yet.

[Anonymous No.2028279]

>>2028151
>image
this upsets me more than you can imagine

>>2028146
>"marble"
>no flecks
ISHIGGITY

[Anonymous No.2028281]

I need to resin print a very basic lock cylinder. Do you think I'll need to lube it to get it to feel right? Are there types of lube I should avoid?

[Anonymous No.2028283]

>>2028226
Never had such problems, I clean it with IPA

[Anonymous No.2028285]

>>2028283
I don't think the cleaning agent is the problem here, anon. Last I checked glass cleaned with soap and water didn't fuck itself like that.

[Anonymous No.2028286]

>>2028084
you racist motherfucker.

also put some love into that tab god dammit. round the back corners, add wings for side tipping, make it a dildoes- something. shit boy put some form in your function.

overall 8/10 better than most anons

[Anonymous No.2028292]

>>2028281
depends on your tolerances. print it and see, and if it needs lube, lube it, just like a real lock except for the printing it part.

also dry lube is the fucking jet

[Anonymous No.2028296]

>>2028120
>Is there even software that makes use of that?
yes. you realize true 3D printing is the dream right? the software is way ahead of the hardware thanks to reductive manufacturing.

[Anonymous No.2028301]

>>2028286
>you racist motherfucker
I am confused, why is that anon racist?

[Anonymous No.2028317]

I keep getting failed prints because the filament is snapping off right where the extruder feeds into the bowden tube. I did a bend test on one of the broken off pieces fished out of the bowden tube and it seems perfectly flexible to me. Any idea what's causing this?

So far it's happened before Cura's purge line and at the ~6th hour of a 7 hour print.

[Anonymous No.2028328]

>>2028301
enie meanie miney moe isn't about a tiger and neither is jerry/jury-rigged

[Anonymous No.2028347]

>>2028281
>>2028292
Locksmith here, please don't lubricate your real locks wihh WD40. That is all.

[Anonymous No.2028348]

>>2028281
Drilling out a printed hole usually leaves a very smooth surface. Just get yourself a pin vise and a set of micro drill bits. Both are very inexpensive.

[Anonymous No.2028353]

>>2028286
I'm melanin enhanced, I can't be racist.

Anyway, as far as function goes, I think I've got this dialed in. There's enough forward lean and weight in the phone holder itself that tipping backwards isn't an issue between the bill in front catching under my keyboard (hasn't happened) and the cones on the back doing their thing as intended. Tapping my phone doesn't cause much sideways force so that's a non-issue.

As for form, that bill is hidden under my keyboard so I didn't bother and I couldn't figure out what to do with the rest anyway. I'll also need to find a better tutorial because I'm pretty sure the one I used is terrible. Most importantly, I think I need to find the slicer setting that lets me control where the seams go. The tower has one front and center that I'm not fond of.

[Anonymous No.2028375]

>>2028353
There's an option in Cura that moves the seam around on each layer so it's less noticeable, I forget what it's called, just search in settings for "seam" and you should find it easily.

[Anonymous No.2028387]

>>2028328
That's really tame compared to nearly anything else on this site. I honestly hope you're joking

[Anonymous No.2028389]

>>2028328
do you mean NIGGER-rigged? Like the way it used to be NIGGER-rigged, and then people stopped saying NIGGER-rigged and started saying something else?

[Anonymous No.2028391]

i just buy a ender 3 pro and s roll of petg
what do

what should i print first?

[Anonymous No.2028393]

>>2028391
PLA

[Anonymous No.2028403]

>>2028389
jerry-rigged has been used since the mid 1800's at least and was used in wwii to denote german (jerry) shoddy workmanship on the front lines

[Anonymous No.2028408]

>>2028393
i'm going to be using it for structural components and I was told petg

[Anonymous No.2028413]

>>2028408
Nah I just meant to start printing it would be easiest with PLA but PETG is not too hard so dw

[Anonymous No.2028441]

>>2027358
>>2027908
by wash he means put some on a paper towel and give it a wipe. nobody needs to "wash" their bed lol

[Anonymous No.2028443]

>>2027993
lol if you're too mentally disable to trouble shoot a really basic cnc machine you're never going to figure out how to use an auto leveling sensor kek. Creality will not hold your hand through it I assure you

[Anonymous No.2028459]

Half way there bros, I wish I had the energy to finish the enclosure today but I got work in the morning.

[Anonymous No.2028471]

>>2028459
what is the purpose of an enclosure

[Anonymous No.2028475]

>>2028471
Keep a controlled enviroment for heat sensation materials.
In my case even PLA curls up because my workshop is cold as hell and dust and debree gets all over the place so it also keeps my printer (and prints) clean.

[Anonymous No.2028479]

>>2028471
Los I can now stack all my filament on top of the enclosure and feed my direct drive without the spool bobbling on my printer causing unbalanceces at high Z prints

[Anonymous No.2028496]

I wish my Ender would print like this

[Anonymous No.2028500]

This looks like under-extrusion right?

So assuming I sliced several pieces at PLA temps and this is PLA2 can I just edit the gcode and change:
>M104 S195
>M105
>M109 S195

to

>M104 S215
>M105
>M109 S215

and be good without re-slicing, right?

Temps are 195º and 215º (tbd). One of the prints is a 15 hour print so I don't want to fuck this up if I need to re-slice to guarantee not fucking it up.

[Anonymous No.2028502]

>>2028496
F

[Anonymous No.2028506]

>>2028496
The guy confessed he was using an entirelly different filament so it's nothing to do with his calibration as he initially claimed

[Anonymous No.2028510]

>>2028500
it took longer to make this post than it would have to just reslice it
i would do some test print before you commit to such a long print especially with a new material

[Anonymous No.2028514]

>>2028506
That son of a bitch! I feel like I was lied to now.
I think a big part of the quality was the small layer height plus ironing. Although he didn't say when I read the post, I just assumed he was ironing on every layer.

[Anonymous No.2028521]

What do you use as a first layer speed?
I have an Ender 3 with a textured PEI bed, but even printing PLA I have to slow it down to 10mm/s with ridiculously minimal jerk to not get poor adhesion.

[Anonymous No.2028531]

>>2028506
link please, would liek to read

[Anonymous No.2028536]

>>2028510
and even less time to edit the gcode in three of the five files. do you not realize how simple it is to edit a text file, or do you not ever change orientation, scale or position in cura? I don't want to redo all the thinking about where and how to position 5 models which I can just change two numbers in 5 files to two other numbers- plus I wouldn't learn anything that way. not that you can relate.

[Anonymous No.2028539]

>>2028521
your are doing it wrong

[Anonymous No.2028544]

>>2028539
I know I am, that's why I'm asking.

[Anonymous No.2028556]

>>2028531
reddit

[Anonymous No.2028558]

Five printed parts; Upper ring, lower ring, bevel gear, bevel pinion, traverse servo mount.

[Anonymous No.2028576]

>>2028536
doesnt sound like youre learning anything considering you already knew what to do

[Anonymous No.2028596]

Does there happen to exist any file for a bullet primers 2 parts. The cup and the Anvil, I want the file in order to make a basic mold that I can then cast metal into and then simply cut off the excess.
The alternative is to remove a spent primer myself and attempt to carve out the channels with a thin knife. This is both tedious and will make a less detailed cast.

[Anonymous No.2028606]

>>2028558
How are the two axes joined? Shit better be fairly solid or your gears won't mesh properly.

[Anonymous No.2028609]

>>2028596
I don't think a 3d printer will be precise enough to print a mold for a press fit primer, let alone an anvil, anon.

Plus there's the fact that primers are pressed steel, not cast. If you try a cast primer I wouldn't be surprised if they ruptured.

[Anonymous No.2028611]

>>2028609
Primers aren't steel they're typically just a brass nickel alloy

[Anonymous No.2028612]

>>2028606
Around the perimeter of the rotating section are flanged ball bearings. They are alternating with the flange pressing down and the flange pressing up, and mounted in a hole in an aluminium plate. The bearings pressing up are placed on springs (not pictured) to ensure there's no wobble. It's solid, and the gears mesh fine even with a millimetre of misalignment (hopefully fixed in this version).

[Anonymous No.2028618]

>>2028496
holy shit reddit is cancer

[Anonymous No.2028633]

>>2025680
have you checked the stl file in for example blender ?
i had this happen to me once (without arcwelder) and it turned out the model had a lot of invalid and double verticies

[Anonymous No.2028640]

>>2028611
I stand corrected. I still don't think cast primers would be a very good idea.

[Anonymous No.2028648]

>>2028296
>the software is way ahead
what software

[Anonymous No.2028650]

>>2028281
probably silicone spray

[Anonymous No.2028658]

>>2028648
fusion360/any competent cam software that supports more than 3 axes

[Anonymous No.2028662]

>>2028658
Which involves a lot of work.

There's no point to 3d printing if I can't just import a mesh and slice it with the press of a button.

[Anonymous No.2028676]

>>2028658
But how can that work when FDM is so gravity-dependent
You're laying on layer down directly onto another, normal to gravity, how does that translate to pointing a nozzle at an angle

[Anonymous No.2028679]

>>2028676
>FDM is so gravity-dependent
care to guess where you're wrong?

[Anonymous No.2028681]

>>2028679
no

[Anonymous No.2028687]

>>2028676
FDM doesn't care if it prints upside down or sideways as long as the nozzle is laying the filament onto filament.

>>2028662
Once you get the post processor correctly setup it'll be alot closer to -> import model -> slice -> print

[Anonymous No.2028688]

>>2028676
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srVHzKsBguM
This same rig was also shown printing upside down, but I couldn't find it with a simple google.

[Anonymous No.2028691]

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/lhm4fz/were_adding_folders_individual_file_notes_support/
Guys, this is so exciting! I can't wait to upload my arduino sketches to prusaprinters.com!

[Anonymous No.2028699]

>>2028691
Joy. Another site to try to steal competition where all the content will be spread ever thinner so I'll pull up 10 articles of the same material instead of 9 when searching for something.

[Anonymous No.2028706]

Redpill me on the role of temprature in the post-print curing of UV resin models

[Anonymous No.2028710]

>>2025432
Hey anon, have that camera so very interested in your project

[Anonymous No.2028755]

My Ender 3 isn't big enough for some projects. Is there anything out there that can handle 14"x14" build area?

[Anonymous No.2028775]

I ran out of filament and now I cant feed new filament in. Is there an easy fix for this or do I really have to take apart my extruder. I3 style.

[Anonymous No.2028776]

>>2028775
Would you care to elaborate why you can't feed the new filament in?

[Anonymous No.2028784]

>>2028775
Did you heat it up and pull out the old filament first?

[Anonymous No.2028785]

>>2028776
Filament will not go in. Feeds a bit and then stops.

[Anonymous No.2028786]

>>2028784
It ran out mid print. So theres no way to pull out the old filament. But I did heat it up.

[Anonymous No.2028790]

>>2028755
14 inches is about 355mm

[Anonymous No.2028798]

>>2028786
Heat it up +10C higher than normal and push it through slowly with the new filament

[Anonymous No.2028799]

>>2028710
I'll be sure to come back here with results once I have them.

[Anonymous No.2028823]

I got a camera for a trip and wanted to be able to throw it into my bag without worrying about it colliding with other bag contents, this is what I came up with in a rush. Next version will definitely have a hinge and integrated locking mechanism. Question - removing the supports was a bitch. What settings control how easy they are to remove? Is prusa slicer shit at supports?

[Anonymous No.2028824]

what are resin printers even good for apart from figurines

[Anonymous No.2028826]

>>2028823
you might want to soften those edges and corners on the next version but looks pretty good!

[Anonymous No.2028829]

>>2028786
You can't pop off the Bowden tube? If it's accessible you just push down the collar and pull tube. If it's not accessible >>2028798 ... worst case you'll have to take head apart right?

[Anonymous No.2028830]

>>2028824
More figurines

[Anonymous No.2028836]

>>2028823
Print it in a way that doesn't require supports. Be it printing in a different orientation, or printing it as seperate pieces that you glue together, or some combination of the two.

[Anonymous No.2028837]

>>2028676
<laughs in microgravity>

[Anonymous No.2028838]

>>2026150
how is that so ugly yet so fucking cool

[Anonymous No.2028854]

>>2028829
Its a direct extruder. I meant to include that.
>>2028798
Ill try that.

[Anonymous No.2028898]

>>2028823
In Cura there is a setting "support interfaces" that makes supports both more effective and easier toi remove. I can usually remove supports just by pressing sideways on them. See if Prusaslicer has something like that, or upgrade to Cura.

[Anonymous No.2028913]

Should I be concerned that the large gear in my BMG clone is plastic? The two gears that it is interacting with are both steel (presumably).

[Anonymous No.2028915]

>>2028913
Plastic gears aren't uncommon, even in some lower-end cordless tools. So long as they're lubricated, they won't wear significantly even when in contact with a metal gear, so long as the metal gear is polished and deburred. The bigger problem is the lower maximum torque; they tend to crack rather easily when overstressed.

[Anonymous No.2028920]

>>2028838
its the leaves

[Anonymous No.2028941]

>>2028915
Dang, can this little Nema 17 stepper motor really put out enough torque to crack a gear? Crazy! The metal gears seem good to me, but I'll keep an eye on the big one for wear after a few prints. I got this so I could print TPU and I think I'm ready for that, just need to finish printing the cooling stuff for my V6 first.

[Anonymous No.2028964]

>>2025308
Lol done by an internet whore.

[Anonymous No.2028966]

>>2028913
No, but you should've just built your own extruder. I run a Voron M4 which is belt driven with bmg feeder. Cost a grand total of 30 bucks.

[Anonymous No.2028984]

>>2028966
>grand total of 30 bucks
>of which 100$ is just the BMG itself
Nice bait man.

[Anonymous No.2028996]

>>2028984
Dumbass, 30 bucks and you get a TL one.

[Anonymous No.2028997]

>>2028984
not that anon but you can get a bmg v1 clone for $10 or just the gears for probably even less. A v2 with hardened gears is around $25

[Anonymous No.2028998]

>>2028996
>>2028997
Already did, it's in the trash now. The gears stripped over a month of use.
I know that chinese clones can be good but the BMG is a design that isn't tolerant to chinese manufacturing practices.
I use a Titan clone from TL now and it's still going strong after a year of use.

[Anonymous No.2029016]

>>2028998
>yea, going by their reputation, guess the fault is on your part

[Anonymous No.2029037]

>>2028514
Ironing only works on top layers. Even if you could enable it on every layer, the result would be more like the top picture, since it back lead to frayed edges.

[Anonymous No.2029064]

>>2028966
I do like the idea of building my own. I've checked out a couple of designs. In the end, I'm probably going to go with the Flex3Drive or at least try it out because I think that one is really interesting. I suppose the shaft could drive any set of gears so it could be the flex shaft + DIY extruder. Just need to find a decent US source for the flex shaft that isn't McMaster. I haven't looked very hard.

[Anonymous No.2029068]

>>2029037
Ah OK. I though you could iron any layer, that's the only way I thought he could have got the outside so smooth. I guess it really just

[Anonymous No.2029071]

>>2029068
... must have been the carbon fiber filament. I haven't tried that filament yet or small layers like the guy did either. I'm printing in huge layers right now, 0.4mm for glow-in-the-dark filament with a 0.6mm nozzle.

[Anonymous No.2029107]

>>2028998
Got an aluminum clone BMG for my Chiron. It's great, can't complain.

[Anonymous No.2029132]

>prusa engineering ™
>x carriage literally zip tied to the bearings

[Anonymous No.2029134]

>>2029132
nothing wrong with that

[Anonymous No.2029136]

>>2026470
i can't wait for AI designed, 3d printed baffles that reduce sound to the minimum possible.

[Anonymous No.2029138]

>>2029132
What did you expect, anon, it's a budget printer. The materials for it cost around 150$. This is the best you can get with that kind of investment.

[Anonymous No.2029140]

>>2029134
not for $750/$999

[Anonymous No.2029143]

>>2029138
yet it fucking costs $750

[Anonymous No.2029144]

>>2029132
still stronger than any chinese steel

[Anonymous No.2029154]

>>2029140
>incredible lightweight
>self aligning in stark contrast to pressfitting
>bottom one doesnt need to pivot
>maintenance friendly
>kit can be assembled by literal retards without tools or a straight edge
People ziptie the bearings in 1000$ diy coreXY machines

this is you
>minus 500 Points because it doesnt suit my autism

[Anonymous No.2029161]

>>2028941
The teeth are probably fine, it's the keyway where most stress is likely to be.

[Anonymous No.2029164]

>>2029161
What's the keyway?

[Anonymous No.2029166]

>>2029164
About five grams.

[Anonymous No.2029197]

>>2029166
I see...
I thought it was 28 grams.

[Anonymous No.2029199]

>>2029132
that's some kabuki demon mask shit right there

[Anonymous No.2029228]

thirteen hours later...

first time using blender, I know the symmetry is shitty but it works for what I need. also, pro-tip, if you're making a wedding gift for a bud, double check that you're not putting 2020 on the bottom of a 13h print...

[Anonymous No.2029233]

>>2029228
kind of a strange wedding gift
maybe you can reprint just the bottom couple of layers and glue it on there to hide your shame

[Anonymous No.2029239]

What's the best way to do a solid box in a resin printer?
It feels like irrespective of how I rotate it I'll still have quite a lot of surface area per layer which will run my feps day.

[Anonymous No.2029259]

>>2029199

[Anonymous No.2029262]

>>2029259

[Anonymous No.2029276]

>>2029259
NOICE!

[Anonymous No.2029278]

Wait why my printer print too big?
It's completely different from the stl.
Its supposed to be 1/4in thick, not 5/8 and it isn't the right size for the battery. Wtf

[Anonymous No.2029285]

>>2029278
duh, should have bought a brain

look at the slicer profile
look at the g code
this can be anything, from wrong slicer settings, to wrong stl, to wrong steps/mm to wrong microstepping value, but you chose to give no intel at all.

[Anonymous No.2029292]

>>2025871
Triangle lab is usually worth it over other sketch chinkshit sellers

[Anonymous No.2029296]

>>2029285
All I did was pull it out of the box and plug it in, and run the software that came with it. Looking at the picture in the slicer program is correct I think.
I don't know what the fuck im doin

[Anonymous No.2029299]

>>2029296
>I don't know what the fuck im doin
Neither do we. What are you trying to print? You've done a calibration cube and measured all of the axis, right? Compare the measurements from your slicer to measurements you take right now of your print.

[Anonymous No.2029312]

New Thread
>>2029310

[Anonymous No.2029483]

>>2029132
If it works it works...

[Anonymous No.2029485]

>>2029143
That's what you get when you factor in everything from brand recognition to quality standards.

[Anonymous No.2029999]

>>2029233
they're a strange couple and l used a wood burning iron set very low to alter the print. bottom smoothness was shitty anyway.

[Anonymous No.2030017]

>>2029999
>they're a strange couple
>quads
confirmed love is strange

[Anonymous No.2030201]

Bought a BLTouch from amazon wearhouse that had the box ripped.
Wired it up corretly and it just pops out and flashes red. Doesn't retract. Is it fucked?

[Anonymous No.2030553]

>>2025325
the exact same happened to me, after switched my hotend to a stainless steel on my ender. hve you fix it?