/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Tools for playing with your wo(...) No.2022984]

Looking to buy my first chainsaw for trimming thiccc branches around the house or if a storm comes through.

What kind of chainsaws does DIY recommend? Battery? Electric? Gas? Brands to buy or avoid?

Should I buy new or used?

[Anonymous No.2022986]

>>2022984
Gas
Stihl or husky. Dont buy an echo. Get something that can run a 16 inch bar. You don't need a pro model

[Anonymous No.2022989]

>>2022986
Also this thread will fill up with fatuous. I suggest not opening it up again. Just take my advice.

[Anonymous No.2022990]

>>2022984
Gas, Husqvarna

Electric ones are not for cutting down trees, they're nice for inside demolition work, but you don't wanna lug around a cable outdoors
Battery idk, I wouldn't trust one, and I definitely would not consider it unless I had the battery/charger system already

[Anonymous No.2022992]

>>2022984

Stihl MS880, you're welcome

[Anonymous No.2022997]

>>2022992
The 880 doubles as a pole saw if you get the 6ft bar. I only have a pleb 4 foot bar.
Op do not get the ms170 I've dealt with three and none of them wanted to stay running and bogged down, not enough power to function. The ms250 would be a good saw for general use. Make sure to not get peels and don't cut your branch collar.

[Anonymous No.2023002]

Husky 545 mark 2 you're welcome

[Anonymous No.2023010]

>>2022997
6 foot?
Forestry branch by me was selling off their 8 footers.

[Anonymous No.2023014]

For occasional yard work I'm perfectly happy with my corded one.

[Anonymous No.2023021]

>>2022986
Why not an echo? I have a cs400 with 18 bar on it and it cuts well

[Anonymous No.2023030]

>>2022984
i have the stihl farm saw. i forget whats the model number... stihl is the way to go though. I would like to get an electric milwaukee with m18 batteries because i have a fuck ton of m18 tools and batteries for other stuff. I keep the impact gun in my tow truck -- the saw would be a nice thing to keep with me because sometime when I recover vehicles that went off road its best to cut trees/brush down that are in the recovery path.

[Anonymous No.2023065]

If you're just using it occasionally and already have battery powered lawn equipment, you can get away with a battery powered chainsaw. I've used one at a relative's house and it was fine. If you want some more heavy duty equipment go to a pawn shop and get a newer used Stihl or Husqvarna. Whatever you do make sure you keep your equipment clean and service it regularly

[Anonymous No.2023067]

>>2023065
Also I've used a simple handsaw before and they work just fine. I sometimes use it over my Stihl just because some things don't require massive power to cut down and are made simpler by just using your own energy

[Anonymous No.2023078]

>>2022984
How thicc are the branches? doesn't make sense to get a high-end gas chainsaw just trimming up branches, with a gas-powered saw you need to keep up with its maintenance, a solid battery powered chainsaw will do you just fine. If you need to cut a tree when a storm comes through once a decade just rent one from your big box store, its like $45 for a day.

[Anonymous No.2023136]

>>2023010
I don't get non stihl bars anymore, had a forester/forestry brand that cracked at the adjustment hole and the Oregon's bend far sooner. That's just me though. Hell of a pole saw, eight foot plus user.

[Anonymous No.2023178]

>>2022984
>trimming thiccc branches around the house or if a storm comes through
This is pretty much the ideal use case for a small battery chainsaw. 12" should be fine. Check reviews, since low-end models can be hit or miss. A 16" cordless chainsaw from a higher-end brand would be overkill, but it would be nice if you actually need to cut down trees at some point. Mine handles 18" pine just fine.

>>2022990
>Electric ones are not for cutting down trees
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aBZt8m1XkQ

[Anonymous No.2023188]

>>2023067
This. Nothing like a hand saw, hatchet and an axe.

[Anonymous No.2023191]

>>2023178
I meant "electric" as in mains powered, which wasn't the most precise wording

Interesting video but god damn those kinds of people are so fucking tiring to listen to

[Anonymous No.2023205]

>>2022984
I've had a little(18"iirc) poulan I use as a home owner for about a decade.I gave $99 for it. I think they're about $140 now.
It's been fine. I don't drain the gas at the end of the season or any other preventive maintenance.
I've changed the spark plug once and just last summer, had to disassemble the carb and clean it.
I've cut down a 2' dia tree with it after the big ice storm years ago.
Would recommend for a home owner just doing occasional tree maintenance

[Anonymous No.2023209]

>>2023205
Correction, 14"
Derp, the manual is on my desktop

[Anonymous No.2023241]

>>2023188
Yep, pic related was done with a shitty handsaw two days ago. Even cut them into smaller pieces so they can be picked up easily. I’ve done much larger scale things without the aid of any power tools. I personally think you should start out with a handsaw and thin all the smaller branches out first before jumping to a chainsaw. Saves fuel and wear to the chain.

[Anonymous No.2023303]

>>2022984
Double posting because I have no shame
Get kevlar chaps or saw pants if you're going to be running a chainsaw. 80$ chaps vs an emergency room visit, they're cost effective. Accidents happen and a saw to the leg is rough. Also the ppe police will call you out and make fun of you if you're not wearing chaps. Been playing with chainsaws for six years and haven't been bitten by a saw yet but it's coming and I'm hoping it hits kevlar and not my soft fleshy limbs. Kickback is also a bitch, don't use the nose of the bar unless you've practiced and know how hard your saw will jump at you. There's a good gif floating around of a guy cutting a joist and he got kickback but he lucked out.

[Anonymous No.2023383]

>>2022984
These people all have good advice. There's a bit too much Brand loyalty. my friend owns a sawmill and a hardware store and he sells only Echo chainsaws because they offer a lifetime warranty the new ones.

there's nothing wrong with an actual chainsaw except they're a bit heavy like a Poulan pro.

Stihl chainsaws are fantastic but they are a bit expensive and working on the names you have to go through specialized parts dealers. I have two of these and I'm very satisfied with them. I have both a semi chisel and a full chisel chain on two 18-in bars and I think they're great for chopping on oak or maple.

the Husqvarna also offers a great saw their chains are cheap you can get them at Lowe's or home Depot and the x cut does a great job of cutting fast.

project farm has done a video on the speed of various chains but what they don't account for is really sharpening and the durability of chains. the more you pay for a chain the longer it will last but the harder it will be the sharpen sometimes it makes sense to buy very cheap chain depending on the work you're doing.

I've rebuilt three chainsaws in the last few months and chopped down 12 trees.

Stihl has the best rubber parts, echo is next, husky and Poland and all the other cheap brands you s***** vinyl lines that will rot after a year.

[Anonymous No.2023385]

>>2023383
I picked up a poulan pro 42cc at tractor supply for 100, it's a great saw that cuts wood well but it weighs too much. 13.5lbs is a lot more than 10lbs. It makes much more sense to get the Husqvarna model because they're both made by the same company.

[Anonymous No.2023387]

>>2023385
When you open up the steel or the Husqvarna you see they have their own parts, it's also easier to access the parts with those two brands than the Poulan pro.

Inside the pollen pro I found this Husqvarna spark plug.

[Anonymous No.2023389]

>>2023387
it's pretty easy to score the piston on a Husqvarna but all you have to do is sand it down a little with some poor sandpaper and it'll start right back up.

[Anonymous No.2023391]

>>2023389
The crazy sons of b****** that came and cut down two of the trees in my yard, they used a variety of chainsaws, the preferred Stihl. it looks like those f****** were using lightsabers they were cutting so fast.

[Anonymous No.2023392]

>>2023391

They were using Stihl pro models that cost about $700

[Anonymous No.2023394]

You have to learn how to sharpen a chain if you're going to play around with chainsaws.

[Anonymous No.2023397]

It helps if you know how to restore them.

most people will discard a chainsaw because it won't start because it has old gasoline.

It helps if you know how to put a new fuel line in, a new fuel filter, the new muffler, how to clear the muffler and also a new spark plug.

[Anonymous No.2023398]

>>2023397
You can get a lot of parts really cheap on Amazon or ebay

[Anonymous No.2023400]

The boys

[Anonymous No.2023401]

>>2022984
Project farm on YouTube has some pretty great comparison reviews of battery chainsaws and gas powered ones too.

If I were you I would buy a better battery one and use it until I felt like I needed more power more often than once a year. Gas engines require some maintenance and the gasoline for these things it's not shelf stable for longer than a year. I have both and use both because I look on four acres of forest and need something to trim thick ass branches as well as occasionally chop up a whole pine.

[Anonymous No.2023424]

OP, if all you are doing is infrequent yardwork that requires a chainsaw, a 12 inch battery chainsaw is fine. that's what I have and I use it twice a year to prune the trees.
no point in getting a larger gas one unless you're using it every week.

[JamesIvan No.2023466]

Stihl... you can't go wrong. Get as big of one you can afford. You can always cut small branches with a big one, but you can't cut a fallen tree with a small electric one.

[Anonymous No.2023470]

>>2023466
This guy knows.

[Anonymous No.2023483]

>>2022984
As others have said, Husqvarna makes a solid small engine, the last thing you want is some bastard that wont start when you are nearly done or just want to knock something out real quick. A little care and proper mix and they will run forever.

Just remember, no matter what you buy, bars, chains and sprockets are always going to need to be sharpened or replaced. As others have mentioned, I strongly advise going bigger than you probably think you need, you can always throw a smaller bar on if it's too much. A little saw will struggle on a big log, but will still cut you like butter when you get tired or frustrated.

[Anonymous No.2023915]

>>2022984
Chiming in on top of everything else that has been said...
These days, Stihl/Husqvarna/Echo are all directly comparable with each other. People who claim that one is far superior to the other are just being brand loyal boomers.
If you choose to get one of these, just get whatever one has the most dealers/support in your local area.
Additionally, avoid the cheapest models of these brands. The low end stuff is built with the intention of some urbanite using it once or twice and throwing it away in a few years.

Poulan is made(cheaply) by Husqvarna, and would be a perfectly suitable option if you're only doing occasional light work.
Battery saws are an option if you're already bought in to a battery ecosystem like Milwaukee, DeWalt, Makita, etc.
Too expensive to go all-in just for the purpose of a rarely used saw otherwise.
Also, don't straight gas your saws. Wear chaps. Proper filing is far more important than raw engine power for most cutting.

As for me, it's McCulloch and my Super Pro 81, but that falls in line more with >>2023397 and being comfortable tearing apart and rebuilding your own stuff.

[Anonymous No.2023996]

>>2022984
Husqvarna 120 II. Stihl are WAY overpriced for what they are and they have two really shitty components: an oil filter with a tiny hose that always falls back into the oil tank and you have to fish that slippery bastard back out with chopsticks, and a stupid plastic bearing with metal teeth that always cracks. Stihl have been aware of these problems for 20 years and have done fuck all, and they're 30% more expensive than Husqvarna for no reason. May Allah smite the shade of Andreas Stihl.

[Anonymous No.2024040]

OP here thanks for all response.

What are opinions on buying new or used... Seems like you guys prefer once that cost 2 to 3k which isn't gonna fly unless i adopt one as a rescue

[Anonymous No.2024042]

>>2023996
>>2023915


While there is much here with which to agree, I must disagree with everything being roughly equal in the brands.

Having used Stihl, Echo, and Husky for several months on a daily basis clearing trees in my new yard I have learned more about chainsaws and axes than I ever thought I would.

Echos are really fantastic chainsaws. They have high quality parts and use Tygon fuel lines in all models, even the entry shit, and they have a lifetime warranty on the engines for consumer use. My buddy owns an Ace hardware, sold Stihl saws for years, and switched over to Echo about 5 years ago. He uses them at his sawmill and only wants to sell Echo now because he feels Stihl has become overpriced.

Stihl uses really high quality parts for most of their prosumer saws and it's like the echo in that it's hard to damage the engine unless you forget to put oil in the gas. I have an MS250 that's a fucking beast, a tank of a home owner saw, and it's really easy on which to work. My major complaint is the availability of parts, like the flange nuts for the guide bar, the guide bar prices, and the chain prices. The air filter is easy to remove, it's super light, has good power, and uses a MASSIVE fuel line. It's hard as you can imagine installing it, but the fuel line will not rot like the thin vinyl shit used in most other saws.

Husky has fallen in quality for most consumer level saws. They use vinyl lines and if you leave gas in them they will rot in one season. Do not store them on top of concrete. I scored a piston and replaced it relatively easy, and I LOVE how light their 240 model is. This is a big selling point. It's a woman's saw, according to the essential craftsman, but I love running around like a careless asshole with the husky because it cuts so easy and weighs like 9lbs.

Makita has honourable mention here. Makita bought Sachs and Dolmar, a great German brand, and produces an excellent commercial/homegrade saw with like 4 horsepower.

[Anonymous No.2024045]

>>2024042
>>2023915
This guy above my last comment is right about learning the correct method for sharpening. Chain brand matters for durability, but the users ability to sharpen after hitting dirt/rocks makes a world of difference. This is coming from a guy who has spent several hundred dollars on sharpening equipment.

I have a diamond wheel for my chainsaw sharpening device, but that's time consuming to use, so I often use the hand file or the Dremel attachment. It depends much on how dull you've gotten the chippers and how much you need to cut down the rakers.

[Anonymous No.2024047]

>>2024045
>>2024042
>>2023915


Last thought. Just wear extra thick jeans and don't be an idiot and you won't cut yourself with the homeowner variety of saws. Kickback only happens when you're an idiot not paying attention or using a fuckhuge chainsaw to cut a little limb and just going a 25% throttle.

Don't take stupid risks and you won't cut yourself. Always position yourself well, wear goggles, and stand to the side of the chainsaw at all times.

[Anonymous No.2024187]

Can't believe only one poster has suggested getting chainsaw pants.
Also see if whoever you buy the chainsaw from runs a course for newbies. I think Stihl runs them

[Anonymous No.2024226]

>>2024187
You don't need 100 dollar pants unless you have somethinglije 50cc or above and it's a job.

[Anonymous No.2024233]

>>2022984
I’ve run Stihl and Husky, both their pro and farm/ranch saws. I would say I prefer Stihl pro saws the most, however like >>2024042 said the parts are less available (they really push you to use their dealer network). As for Husky, I’ve found the Husky dealer near me will actually put their pro saws on sale, unlike the Stihl dealers. This is on top of Husky sticker price already being cheaper (as >>2023996 mentioned) than Stihl

Tbh pro saws probably aren’t needed so if looking for a farm/ranch saw I’d try to find a factory reconditioned Husky (some dealers have them, otherwise you may find some online, I got a 435 for $180). I don’t recommend Stihl farm/ranch saws because if paying ~400 for a mediocre saw you might as well save for a pro, or buy something cheaper. I’ve never ran Echo but I’ve heard good things. They have the longest warranty I believe, and cheapest pricing.

[Anonymous No.2024243]

>>2024226
100$ in cut protection vs going to get stitches and possible surgery for severed muscle and tendons.
Just rub your skin against a tree and consider just how soft you are compared to the tree which gets cut so easily by the saw. Yes saw pants and chaps aren't idiot proof but the kevlar will stop the chain quickly so you only get minor cuts in most cases and wicked bruising. Run a 120cc saw full throttle into chaps and you're losing half your leg, run a 50cc saw full throttle into chaps and you get a good cut and bruising.
www.bartlettman.com
www.treestuff.com
Amazon has husqvarna chaps

[Anonymous No.2024278]

>>2024243
I said that, you don't need a 50cc or larger as a homeowner. I have an acre and chop wood everyday and my ms250 is the biggest saw at 45ccs. I've had kickback and it's fine as long as you're paying attention and have BOTH hands on the saw.

Chaps are for foresters and loggers. Dickies or jeans are fine.

[Anonymous No.2024311]

>>2022984
>>2024233
Also I meant to add — since you say you’re buying a saw for some brush limbing work and maybe a possible future storm, I would buy a battery saw if you already have a battery tool platform. Only using a gas saw occasionally won’t be worth it with the maintenance

[Anonymous No.2024348]

>>2024042
>Do not store them on top of concrete
Why?

[Anonymous No.2024443]

>>2024348 they will corrode via galvanic corrosion.

Many people store saws on concrete, it's a mistake.

[Anonymous No.2024485]

>>2022997
>ms170
is a fine saw for up to 24" trees / logs if you keep your chain sharp. Remember to hit the rakers bc this saw does not have enough power to dig them into the wood if they are excessively tall relative to your cutting edges.

[Anonymous No.2024528]

>>2024485
The only thing is that the features are lacking, wait for a sale and get a 171 or 180 for a few more. The 170 is hard to work with as far as maintenance.

[Anonymous No.2024535]

>>2024528
I the 171 has side chain tension adjustment, holds more bar oil, is quieter, and has an easy access air filter/spark plug. Thats totally on worth it.

[Anonymous No.2024540]

>>2022984
I got so tired of putting up with batteries and gas engines, so I just got a cheap plug-in electric. Went with the smaller 8-amp just so I never risk popping a breaking. It does the job, and it really isn't a big deal to have the extension cord around.

[Anonymous No.2024698]

>>2022984
Echo cs 2511t if you're just pruning or doing smaller fellings. Stihl 362 for larger fellings, don't listen to the tards recommending 660s and 880s, the absolute max a homeowner will need is a 462. Pic related is the type of cuts you make with an 880. I always recommend chaps for boobs.

T. treetard

[Anonymous No.2024716]

>>2024042
>Do not store them on top of concrete.
Why?

[Anonymous No.2024727]

>>2024716
>>>2024348 they will corrode via galvanic corrosion.
>Many people store saws on concrete, it's a mistake.

[Anonymous No.2025273]

>>2024698
A fellow treetard!
Climber or bucket or ground guy or everything?

[Anonymous No.2025291]

>>2024485
I had failure from the first use, no dirt no rocks no metal no bark no wood. Might have to get a lottery ticket but three for three the ms170 was not a usable saw. Or they're all garbage and you need to get a lottery ticket. Either way stihl has been good to me I just hate the 170 because the fucker doesn't work. I want to sell it but I'd feel bad selling it because it doesn't work so it just collects dust, it's good at that. Got it in hopes it would be a good training saw but the 250 shined through again.
The three saws came from two different dealers that have been good for other saws. I purchased one, tried to work with a guy getting his to work, he got a replacement and had the same issues.

[Anonymous No.2025297]

>>2022986
what's wrong with echo?

[Anonymous No.2025726]

>>2025297
They're great, just a bit heavier typically unless you get the top handle.

[Anonymous No.2025731]

>>2022984
Gas, look into Shindaiwa or Echo. Avoid Stihl like a curse.

[Anonymous No.2025735]

>>2025297
>>2023021
Literally nothing, guys who do the forest work here ditched stihl memes for echo almost completelly.

[Anonymous No.2025879]

>>2025273
Climber mostly, I do bucket work on occasion.

[Anonymous No.2025940]

>>2025879
Srt or drt? Switched to srt this Autumn and it's been the bees knees so far.
Picture looks like an adventure, removal or cutting out damage?

[Anonymous No.2025945]

>>2023014
this

[Anonymous No.2025963]

>>2025940
SRT typically but I like DRT for renovations, SRT is the shit dude. We cabled that, the damage is like 20 years old. I repelled down into the trunk a little ways just for shits and giggles.

[Anonymous No.2025964]

>>2025963
*removals

[Anonymous No.2025984]

any 100 dollar shitbucket 2 stroke will work, learn how to keep your chains sharp, security boots and kevlar chaps

today i stood around with my dick out in the forest, with a battery powered saw and frozen 18650s. some lessons you have to learn the hard way.

[Anonymous No.2026009]

>>2022984
sawzall > chainsaw

[Anonymous No.2026109]

Simply. If you are going use it all the time get a good 2 stroke gas one. If your like me and can use an extension cord once a year then go electric. Your gas saw will not work once a year and the electric saw will work forever.

[Anonymous No.2027282]

>>2023178
>Small branches
Ok, electric is fine for that, but so is a reciprocating saw that you will actually use for more things.

Fuel:
Stihl or Husqvarna. Jonsered for a budget

[Anonymous No.2027285]

>>2024243
This, also they make damn comfy workpants so it's actually more like 50 on top of the 50$pants you would be wearing anyways.

[Anonymous No.2027608]

>>2025963
That's a properly thicc tree

[Anonymous No.2027620]

>all these larping lumberjacks recommending 2k chainsaws

Just get a corded pole saw from harbor freight, Jesus Christ. Make sure you keep it oiled and keep the chain sharp and it will work fine for branches. Worry about a decent chainsaw when you actually need to cut down trees.

[Anonymous No.2027977]

>>2025879
>>2025963
Any recommendations on where to start getting into climbing and whether to first start with SRT or DRT?

[Anonymous No.2028180]

>>2027977
Start with drt, apply at one of the big three, davey's, bartlett or asplundh.

[Anonymous No.2028241]

>>2027620
>corded chainsaw
Looks like people in your family never passed down their knowledge of tools to you. I’d rather use a handsaw that one of those death machines

[Anonymous No.2028608]

>>2028241
?? what's wrong with them
Ive cut trees down with them, it works fine. you're in a stationary position when you cut, It's not like a trimmer or vacuum cleaner where you need to walk around. the lack of power is the most annoying part but is canceled out by the lack of engine maintenance and fuel.

[Anonymous No.2028897]

What are the pros of top handled saws?

[Anonymous No.2028938]

>>2027977
Get the tree climbers companion and knots at work, tons of good information in them. Treestuff has starter kits for gear and bartlettman has good prices on gear. On YouTube treeboi4life has good detailed videos on basics like using gaffs. Remember don't use gaffs on a prune.

[Anonymous No.2028939]

>>2028897
More compact, easier to get into position and can be used with one hand even though you're never supposed to one hand a saw because your wrist is the pivot point and kick back is a bitch with a top handle.

[Anonymous No.2030376]

Somewhat unrelated. Are any other brands having supply chain issues? I work for a Stihl dealer and we have had so many backorders this year.

[Anonymous No.2030380]

stihl 171

[Anonymous No.2030462]

>>2022984
I have 2. I use a stihl ms180cbe for limbs and an ms271 for cordwood and felling. You should look into something small like the 180 if you’re just limbing or taking down smaller trees.

[Anonymous No.2030473]

Stihl or get the fuck out of here. 261 or higher or get the fuck out of here. Skipchain or get the fuck out of here.

[Anonymous No.2030855]

>>2022984
I use just generic store brand gas saw, made in sweden I think
Probably out of chink parts but its decent quality
Had it for years, starts every time, 2 feet bar is plenty enough to do maintenance and occasionally remove toppled tree
Once I had to cut through one thicker than bar, still did it with some effort
I sharpen my chain with angle grinder because fuck you, don't have time for bullshit, good enough for what I use it for
2 chains lasted me 5 years and only recently I need to start considering throwing one out
Don't believe pros telling you to only buy top shelf stuff, your first one just needs to be reliable and nothing more

[Anonymous No.2030880]

I just needed a chainsaw for small random work around my yard. Limbs too big for my pruner basically. I bought the cheapest corded electric chainsaw I could find. About $40 usd. Works fine for what I need it for.

[Anonymous No.2033016]

>>2022986
stihl is a huge overkill for occassional cutting

[Anonymous No.2035139]

>>2022990
Seconded.

Stihl gets hard ti start when older.

I have an 455XP Rancher. Drops nig trees and cuts firewood. Light enough to brush out a path.

[Anonymous No.2036039]

>>2024243
Chainsaws are the most dangerous tool the average idiot can get their hands on. I can't tell you how many people come into the ED where I work after any decent storm/hurricane. It's unbelievable.

This anon knows what up. Wear the protection on your legs, head/eyes and ears.

Watch some videos how to operate a saw on jewtube for an hour before you go run something with no idea. Kickback is a real thing, use a "safety" chain. Anyone trying to sell an amateur a aggressive cutting blade isn't doing you any favors.

- A friendly nurse, woodsmen and guy with a few hundred hours running saws.

[Anonymous No.2036235]

>>2022984
I recently bought a stihl m5170 and I'm happy with it. Does what I need it to do, although I can appreciate why people go for a larger bar after trying to trim down a multi headed beast of a stump. It was reasonably priced and I trusted the brand.

The battery units, across all brands, are deceptively priced. When you get down to it, anything decent doesn't come with chargers or the battery. The ones that do are considered disposable.

[Anonymous No.2036335]

>>2022984
Gas, like everyone says.
Stihl is the standard, and is obviously one of the more expensive brands Husqvarna the other one. They're what you want if you run a chainsaw for a living and don't have time to fuck around with nonsense.
Having said that, you'd never go wrong if you bought one, unless you take into account that it's absolutely overpriced overkill for 90% of what a the average homeowner needs a chainsaw for.
You can go to Home Depot and walk out with a 55cc 18" Ryobi gas-powered saw for half the price of a comparable Stihl or Husqy, and it will do everything you need it to do.
I got one with probably 100hrs of run time on it. Never did anything but change the plug and sharpen the chain.

[Anonymous No.2036464]

>>2036039
I learned the hatd eay, in Brotish Columbia doing spacing, road cleanering/widening and brushing out plantations.

Fallers pants absolutely. Ive been cut twice, both times while sharpening my saw.

My parents friend, Boney Welburn, had a huge scar across his face from getting hit with saw during a barberchair.

Always carry a first aid kit if in the bushj

[Anonymous No.2036465]

Buy or lend this book it will help you to work safely and not die.

[Anonymous No.2036475]

>>2036465
>lend
*borrow

[impact !Ls9RqHyZwg No.2036899]

>>2022984
I'm pretty happy with my older 435 Husqvarna that has the 18in bar.


Now you're wanting to trim shit so it doesn't fall on your domicile?

You're going to have to climb....

[impact !Ls9RqHyZwg No.2036904]

Also if you use the tool and act timid, it'll bite you.

I honestly suggest if you want to fool around with this tool without knowing what you're doing... you should find a job with a tree service, have them learn you how to handle these things, then fuck-off back to your normal job.

[Anonymous No.2037048]

>>2036904
We're not gonna teach a noob how to use a saw for like at least a month.

[Anonymous No.2037625]

>>2037048
But what if op has already mastered the art of raking and dragging brush?

[Anonymous No.2037641]

>>2022984
Stihl's a great brand.

[Anonymous No.2038156]

>>2037625
don't care, gotta watch someone that knows what they're doing for a long while

[Anonymous No.2040119]

>>2022984
I'm in a similar situation- just bought property with all kinds of brush and smaller trees, loose limbs etc - I got a STIHL MS 251 woodboss. Love it. Get a Stihl - if you cant, get a husky

[Anonymous No.2040304]

i have a older Stihl 270 FARM BOSS w/ 20" bar and it's a good all around saw

[Anonymous No.2042113]

>>2036039
>male nurse
Ngmi

[Anonymous No.2042339]

>>2028608
>whats wrong with them
Nothing.....i know people who use electric chainsaws for small stuff around the yard and its fine

[Anonymous No.2043880]

>>2042113
Die alone and in pain.

[Anonymous No.2043882]

>>2036039
On the plus side, that looks like it's mostly skin. Dude needs to get stitched up and wear his PPE next time.

[Anonymous No.2044210]

>>2022992
Beat me to it

[Anonymous No.2044338]

Husky vs stihl the same as Ford ba chev. I personally prefer husky just because my husky dealer is a decent dude to deal with. I can flip him a txt saying I need a part but won’t make it before closing time. No problem I’ll hide it outside for you. I’ll add it to your tab. Dudes y’all should be wearing your safety gear. It’s not a matter if something is going to happen but when.

[Anonymous No.2044349]

>>2022984
Gassers are a waste and store badly. I have both and had to buy the electrics after a shoulder replacement. Now I rarely use the gassers. Homeowner (not firewood production) shit's easy to do with a decent cordless like my Makita (which came with their outstanding cordless angle grinder which is great for sharpening mower blades with a flap disc).

I have a fuckton of tools and use what works, and for homeshit cordless works very well. Gassers are for arborists and others who use them constantly and even then maintenance is annoying (I'm a skilled mechanic from aircraft on down but don't get paid to work on my own tools).

[Anonymous No.2044372]

>>2036039
good point, always work slow and think where your blade will swing after resistance is gone

[Anonymous No.2044502]

>>2043880
All medical professionals are scum.

[Anonymous No.2044621]

>>2044372
>blade

[Anonymous No.2044630]

I have a Husky 460 Rancher 24" bar, have some big trees on my property though. Wouldn't mind a big smaller saw that still has a 20-24" bar, nice for bucking stuff up quick since you don't have to bend over as much.