Looking for a drill bit holder

[Anonymous No.2018551]

I just want the Ryobi style case, it looks very solid. Should i spend $25 for it? Anyone got any alternatives?

i am a total n00b DIYer, i have just started accumulating various sizes/types of drill bits over the years and want to consolidate.

Should I focus on a particular type of bit? I am thinking 1 set for masonry and 1 set for wood/metal/plastic (i was impressed with a 1.5mm kango drillbit i used yesterday)

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2018566]

>>2018551
135 degree split point bits are good all around for wood, plastic, and metal. HSS (high speed steel) is sort of the standsrd mid-range material, some will be gold colored and advertised as “titanium” but that is just a coating that makes the outside a bit harder and slicker, “Black Oxide” is about the same but not quite as good, they’re all HSS. Cobalt is the next step up for drilling hard metals, I would stay away for now because they’re unforgiving and break easily.

The masonry bits... do you own a drill with a hammer mechanism? If not, don’t even do it because regular drills barely work on masonry.

What other brands do they have? The Ryobi bits are typically sort of mid to lower middle range, but they should be fine for wood. Here in the US, DeWalt’s Titanium Nitride coated bits are always pretty solid for a fair price, not real heavy duty for tons of metal, but a good mid-range.

[Anonymous No.2018591]

>>2018551
Get a Huot index. Thank me later.

[Anonymous No.2018617]

>>2018551
They are called Drill Indexs, look for metal ones.
Huot and Drilbox are the best USA made ones, both excellent quality, not sure about other countries never looked into it.
I have a few indexs that I have filled with random vintage bits, but on the whole I just buy quality sets that come in a nice index in the first place.
I have a tray with dedicated sizes in each partition that I throw my random loose bits into. Youll never fill the indexs well, youll have empty spots and redundant drills with no space.

If you are looking to start accumulating drills and buying metric, just buy a larger set.
You will nickel and dime yourself, large sets are so much cheaper.

Look into .5 or .1 size sets.
You can buy 51 piece sets that have 1-6mm, with every .1 in between.

In the USA, most people dont even realize there are bit sizes outside of the standard fractional sets. They buy a 29 piece SAE set, and a 19 piece MM set.

There are 115 standard SAE drill sizes, and almost as many MM sizes that you just cant find at the store. Over 80 other drill sizes joe blow doesnt even know exist, and cant really walk into the store and buy.

When you need a 4.6mm hole, going up to 5mm will work, but you will be doing far better work to use a 4.6mm bit.
Thats a far better thing to spend your money on than buying a bunch of redundant 4mm drill bits, and redundant 19 piece sets.

Also yes, you should buy a masonry set too. But you dont need a ton of different sizes, you are drilling masonry to put in anchors, and all the anchors are going to be pretty standard sizes.
I would focus on standard bits first though.

[Anonymous No.2018621]

>>2018566
>The masonry bits... do you own a drill with a hammer mechanism? If not, don’t even do it because regular drills barely work on masonry.

Regular drills work fine on masonry with a masonry bit, slow and steady while clearing the dust and it drills fine. Its a lot more effort, but if you only need to do a few holes a year you shouldnt go out and buy a special drill for it.

[Anonymous No.2018754]

>>2018551

boomer dad literally bought the ryobi last week.

never buy craftright. it is absolute dogshit. alibaba tier. had a socket wrench from them and the sockets wore out after a couple of hours of use because they use soft metal

[Anonymous No.2018755]

>>2018566
almost correct
pretty much any drill bit you are gonna buy will be HSS
but there are three tiers:
HSS-R (rolled) the cheapest and softest, will suck for hard materials and won't last, benefit: it's the most forgiving when free hand drilling as it has more flexibility and won't break as quickly
HSS-G (ground) good mid tier choice affordable but good quality recommended for most diy applications
HSS-Co (Cobalt) the hardest and longest lasting but also most expensive, really worth it for stainless steel and if you want to drill a lot of holes

coatings are independent of the base material but mostly a marketing meme in the /diy/ world
they only really matter in industrial settings with optimized speeds and feeds

[Anonymous No.2018762]

>>2018617
i just want to start with a 0.5-10mm drill index for now. might start a set with pic related. i have a craftwright set of wood drill bits (has a pointy centre) that will go straight in the bin now.

i also have a hammer drill already. what sort of set for masonry? hss? 135 degree as well?

[Anonymous No.2018766]

>>2018762
All masonry bits are HSS with brazed Carbide tips, and they dont specify a tip angle because they are ground much differently than regular twist drills for metal.
Just get a quality brand name and youll be fine.

[Anonymous No.2018767]

It seems OP is Aussie.
>P&N
>Sutton
Those would be my pick.

[Anonymous No.2018770]

>>2018755
This post is odd
Almost no bits are roll forged except the cheapest of the cheap, and none actually label themselves as roll forged as its the cheaper less accurate way of manufacturing bits.

Also Rolled vs Ground has nothing to do with the type of HSS the blank uses, its just their manufacturing process.
Then you compare 2 manufacturing processes agnostic of HSS grade, directly to a composition of Cobalt HSS

You are all over the place bud.

[Anonymous No.2018777]

>>2018770
those are the common terms in the semi professional world of diy enthusiasts and most tradies
yes if you are a real machinist it's inaccurate and maybe even confusing
but try buying a drill bit on amazon and you'll find these to be the most commonly used descriptions

[Anonymous No.2018790]

>>2018566
They also fit snugly into the dewalt cases, very satisfying.

[Anonymous No.2018807]

>>2018777
>those are the common terms in the semi professional world of diy enthusiasts and most tradies

Literally nobody goes around talking about whether their drills are ground or rolled, not in the trades, not in the DIY world. What are you even talking about?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2018855]

>>2018617
I was going to shill the Huot but figured they would be prohibitively expensive in Australia. A lot of the plastic boxes are pretty solid, the DeWalt and Milwaukee boxes feel like the same tough plastic they use in the power tools.

>>2018762
+1 with the other guys who said don’t worry about going with a huge masonry bit set. By the time you rattle the concrete out, the hole is a bit lager than the bit. Get any mid-range carbide tipped bits and you should be fine.

Drilling metal is when good bits really come in handy. Even if two brands claim to be the same material and grind, there’s a huge difference between cheap bits and quality bits when you need to drill into steel. For wood, the mid-range stuff is pretty good, Bosch, Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee all sell bits that should be consistently solid.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2018856]

>>2018807
I’ve never heard them described that way either. Always the point and the metal, and if they’re HSS-Cobalt, they say “COBALT” all over and don’t mention HSS. Unless you’re doing machinist stuff maybe.

[Anonymous No.2019091]

OP here.

Ive narrowed it down to these

https://www.bunnings.com.au/full-boar-25-piece-metric-drill-bit-set_p0056838

>25 piece
>135 degree
but shitty plastic-looking index and $50

https://www.totaltools.com.au/62374-detroit-1-13mm-metric-hss-tin-jobber-drill-bit-set-25pc-mcdbs25tm
>25 piece
>solid looking metal index
>$30
degrees unknown

https://sydneytools.com.au/product/techsmart-tec25r-25pce-metric-4241-roll-forged-high-speed-steel-hss-drill-bit-set
>25 piece
>index appears to be solid
>$20
shame its 118degrees

Of course over time i will be replacing the drill bits with 135 degrees mid range branded ones.

its either the Detroit or the Techsmart branded ones.... Any opinions on either?

[Anonymous No.2019108]

>Not getting the one thing Ohio is good at

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2019249]

>>2019091
What is that Full Boar brand? Same with Detroit... goofy Ausfag brands. There are plenty of shitty metal cases and decent plastic ones so I wouldn’t base the purchase on that. The Detroit ones are TiN coated, that’s a nice extra step. Strange the Full Boar one is so much more expensive considering it’s not even coated with black oxide, they could rust out real fast but I don’t know what I’m talking about. You could have bare bits that are ground well, and TiN bits ground like shit.

The last one, the 118deg is a cheaper manufacturing process I believe. So you can pretty much be assured if they won’t even grind them right, they likely didn’t put much effort into anything else.

Without seeing any reviews or really knowing the brands, the Detroit set looks straight, mostly because that TiN normally holds up with wood for some time. The real test comes when you need to put some holes in steel.

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.2019251]

>>2019108
OP is in Australia. If he wanted a US drill index from a good company, it would cost him $900.

[Anonymous No.2019357]

>>2019091
i just came from the store to look at the Detroit metal unit... i didnt like the case. much prefer the fully enclosed plastic versions.

[Anonymous No.2019363]

Get whatever is on special lol. Or don’t go to bunnings go to a proper hardware store. Total tools has trade gear pretty cheap

[Anonymous No.2019452]

>>2019251
Yeah, but that is in kangaroo dollars. It would only be $550 in real money.

[Anonymous No.2019520]

>>2019357
Thats because cheap chinese metal drill bit boxes are flimsy trash. But thats all you are going to get buying these cheap sets.

[Anonymous No.2019535]

>>2019091
Full boar > Detroit > Techsmart

Dont buy the Techsmart, they are 4241 HSS which is the lowest possible grade of HSS. It will not hold up drilling mild steel.

The detroit are 118deg, you can tell just by looking at it. The tin coating means absolutely nothing and is not a selling point.
I would not at all be surprised if the Detroits are also 4241 steel, thats just the level of crappiness you are looking at right now.

The Full Boar being 135deg split points (its a second grinding operation, it costs more to do) and being uncoated (IE the blanks were nice enough to present polished up, cheap ass brands throw shitty TIN or Black Oxide to cover up shit blanks), and the extra price leads me to believe that it is not 4241. It explicitly says ferrous metals on it too, which ive seen 4241 Steel drill bits here in the USA literally say Aluminum and Wood only on them.
It leads me to believe that the blanks are at least the standard M2 steel.

You dont do extra polishing and grinding operations on the cheapest blanks.
Its probably worth the extra money.

[Anonymous No.2019659]

>>2018551

i got the craftright set because of the metal fold out case.

the 5mm drill was cooked in half a day of pre drilling into 60 year old iron bark, which actually isnt that bad for a cheap bit.

i just replace the bits as i destroy the cheap ones. its a really good box.

[Anonymous No.2019672]

>>2019659
im a bit hesitant coz of how it locks together up top. you worried at all about it coming loose during transport?

[Anonymous No.2019677]

>>2019672
Yeah nah. It's pretty stiff, but mine just sits in the shed.

If you had it in a tool box that didn't let it fold open it would be fine. But don't come out unless it's really open

[Anonymous No.2019679]

>>2019677
*Bits don't come out

[Anonymous No.2020500]

>>2018790
>6 trillion drywall plugs
this man in on his way to hang an entire exhibit worth of art
>nuts and washers but no machine screws, just self drilling sheet metal screws
I love looking at these kind of ads

[Anonymous No.2020665]

OP here

checked on ebay and saw this. great price for the case - shit or not.