Fridge Not Cooling, Compressor Running?

[Anonymous No.2005628]

I have a french door fridge that stopped cooling this morning. Normally I can work though this easily enough but this one isn't making much sense, most of the things seem to be working.

Compressor runs
Condenser coils are clean
Condenser fan working normally
Evap coils are cool to touch but not cold
No ice on evap
Evap fan works fine
System not in defrost
Board diagnostic says normal

Because the compressor and fans run, I hit a troubleshooting dead end for everything. It's an awkward size that just happens to fit in my older house and replacing it is in the 2k+ range. Hate to replace it if a cheap repair is possible.

[Anonymous No.2005713]

>>2005628
Just to be clear: you've take the drawers out of the freezer poertion and the coils/heat sink their are not frozen solid?

[Anonymous No.2005798]

>>2005628

just cause the compressor runs doesnt mean its good. you would need to do a presssure test while its running.

other scenario is it just needs a little freon. you could have a tiny leak and it leaked out enough to not cool properly.

[Anonymous No.2005822]

>>2005713
Yea, everything is open and they get slightly cool when it's running but that's it. No freeze over, not even frost. The defrost heater is not on.
>>2005798
That's what I'm afraid of, I can't think of another scenario except for the compressor is running but is still bad. Supposedly this is very uncommon in this unit.

[Anonymous No.2007885]

Typical lazy French

[Anonymous No.2007956]

>>2005822

could just be low on freon.. you need gauges to tell. and also knowing how much freon the system needs, should be on the label somewhere. the tiniest leak will take a while to cause issues... so I would start with the freon level and go from there

[Anonymous No.2008177]

Is it an lg?

[Anonymous No.2008180]

Touch the two copper pipes coming out of the compressor. The thinner one should be too hot to touch. The thick one should be chilly. This is a simple way to check if something is wrong.

[Anonymous No.2010183]

>>2005628
Replace the capacitor. They go out all the time.

[Caveman !ZrDebyJajE No.2010188]

>>2010183
This. Does your fridge compressor cycle on and off repeatedly? My maytag did this about two months ago, I changed the capacitor in about 5 minutes.

[Anonymous No.2010575]

>>2010183

if the compressor is running, then obviously the capacitor is fine. its low on freon. low freon causes non cooling issues. only way to diagnose this shit is to get gauges and do a pressure test to be sure. I mentioned this earlier. if you want advice for your problem, then you need to take the advice given and use it to troubleshoot your problem. if you dont agree with the advice or suggestions given, then thats your fucking problem and you should stop asking for said advice.

[Anonymous No.2010589]

>>2010575
wrong, compressor can run but it needs the cap to jump it so it can get start moving refrigerant

[Anonymous No.2010630]

>>2010589
>wrong, compressor can run but it needs the cap to jump it so it can get start moving refrigerant

Are you actually retarded? How the fuck do you think a fridge compressor is going to run WITHOUT moving refrigerant?

[Anonymous No.2011403]

>>2008177
Kek
This man knows
Fuck 795

[Anonymous No.2011430]

>>2010630
Not him, but I think what he is suggesting is that just because the compressor is getting power and is humming doesn't mean it is actually spinning.

OP, how do you know that the compressor is running??? If there's no temp difference between discharge and suction lines, and you're not getting a pressure reading, then how do you know the compressor is actually running/spinning rather than just buzzing/vibrating?

Also, you say that board diagnostic says normal; does it have a pressure switch to detect leaks? or a speed sensor/ or some way to determine compressor rotation?

[Anonymous No.2011770]

>>2011430
a compressor buzzing but not starting will overheat and stop on internal protection leading to the
>bzzzzzzz-click
condition. also its pretty obvious the noise and shaking it makes isnt normal. op has a refrigerant leak plain and simple, now throw away the fridge and buy a new one.

[Anonymous No.2012003]

>>2011770
The compressor could be "working" but not actually doing any work
If it's an newer LG their linear compressors are notorious for having blown check valves where the compressor stops doing shit but you still have refrigerant in the system

[Anonymous No.2012181]

>>2005628
Start with dumb things first. Make sure doors are closed. Then try turning it on and off.
If compressor runs and shit is not cold (like it should be -20C cold idk how much in F), you have a problem. It can be either defrost not turning off, or freon leak, or capillary tube issues, or idk.
Are condenser coils hot?

[Anonymous No.2012232]

>>2005628
Definitely a bad start capacitor.

[Anonymous No.2012314]

>>2005798
Agreed-
Low refrigerant is the most likely cause.

Also, be careful, a lot of modern fridges are using R600A, which is isobutane. Makes soldering a leak a bit sporty.

[Anonymous No.2012501]

>>2010630
>How the fuck do you think a fridge compressor is going to run WITHOUT moving refrigerant

By having bad valves for one.

>>2010589
Cap was tested with multimeter by loading and discharging and works fine.

>>2010188
No, compressor remains on any time it's plugged in.

Ok compressor itself is getting hot, maybe 180F. The evaporator coils behind the bottom freezer unit become cool to touch but not cold, maybe 60 degrees. The tubes leading in/out of compressor, one is very warm, maybe 150, the other is cool or maybe even room temp.

I am suspecting that the compressor valve is failing to fully compress. I am wondering if anything above could possibly indicate a coolant leak rather than a bad compressor valve.

Rest of the fridge is virtually pristine condition, I'm very reluctant to just toss it, seems kind of stupid honestly, I would rather do whatever I need to DIY a new compressor than toss the entire fridge, though I don't know much about where to start on that. I'm pretty determined to fix it rather than toss it.

Yes I know I'll still have to have some jackass come to refill the coolant.

[Anonymous No.2012504]

>>2012003
This is exactly what I think is happening, bad valve, but want to make sure it's valve and not leak. It's not an LG it's a Maytag (which is basically a whirlpool iirc). On various repair forums they say the compressor is the least likely to fail of all components, but looks like I'm just lucky and beating the odds.

>>2012181
Anon, thanks for input but I'm WAY past things like making sure the fridge is plugged in.

>>2012314
How can I tell low coolant vs bad valve? Wouldn't low coolant fail slowly over time by becoming warmer and warmer? This failed suddenly, night, working fine, morning, freezer stuff is thawed.

>>2012314
How can I tell?

[Anonymous No.2012540]

>>2012504
You'd need a set of gauges (meant for the refrigerant you'll be checking), and likely some appropriate piercing style access valves.

Most of the reefers I've dealt with do not have access ports.

[Anonymous No.2012604]

>>2012504
>Anon, thanks for input but I'm WAY past things like making sure the fridge is plugged in.
I mean, idk, what if this is a new fridge with inverter drive and confusor glitched out and doesn't spin compressor at full power.
>How can I tell low coolant vs bad valve?
Well, you can't without gauges. I mean in compressor.
If your fridge uses TXV, it will get frosted funny I guess, idk. In my shithole we don't have fridges with TXV, only capillary tubes.

So... First of all, check label. Figure out which freon it uses.
If it is R600a, it is an isobutane, a camping gas... If it is R290, it is propane, a BBQ gas. You you need to be extra careful, and you should probably call certified dude because, well, those gases burn and can explode.
If it is R134a, you're in luck.
You need to get piercing valves, recovery machi... Of course you won't. So you cut off the process stub on compressor, and then braze 1/4 inch service port, and try to suck a vacuum. If vacuum can't be achieved, you have a giant ass leak, and you need to pressurize system with nitrogen, and check everything with soap bubbles. Fix the leak.
Once vacuum is achieved, you can add refrigerant. Use kitchen scales to weight factory charge. If after doing this you still having issues, something else is fuckered.

[Anonymous No.2012605]

>>2012604
Also it is a good practice to change filter-dryer every time system is open to the air

[Anonymous No.2012609]

>>2005628
I recently had to replace some parts in my fridge.

I monitor the freezer size and it seems to stay at zero every time I look. But also shows max of 30F. Is that normal? Like maybe it's just detecting the defrost and wouldn't affect actual food? Or does it still have something wrong?

[Anonymous No.2012625]

>>2012540
Yea I know, I was looking at something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS-Vacuum-Refrigeration-Manifold-Gauge/dp/B00SZ4QFW0/

>>2012604
>If it is R134a, you're in luck.
Yes the sticker on the side says "5.00 oz R134a" ... also says 1 PH not sure what that means, and says "NO START WITHOUT STARTING DEVICE"

>>2012604
>Of course you won't
Sure I will anon, scouts honor!

>>2012605
Have no idea what that is :/

>>2012604
Honestly thanks a bunch this was really helpful. Looking more and more doable.

[Anonymous No.2012653]

>>2012625
>Yes the sticker on the side says "5.00 oz R134a"
Good. Because this means you don't have to deal with flammable gases. And you can buy it in any auto parts store (I think). Make sure it doesn't have any additives, just pure R134a, no sealers, no oil, no dyes, nothing other than gas.
>Sure I will anon, scouts honor!
Are you really going to buy or rent a recovery machine... This expensive, can of gas is way cheaper than recovery machine. I mean by law you should recover, but fuck the environment you know... In my shithole if you say recovery machine to an HVAC dude, he will laugh at you.
Piercing valves might be helpful tho, they will allow you to diagnose the system, and will show you if it is compressor not pumping or low charge. Might save you a can of gas.
>Have no idea what that is :/
Pic related. It picks up moisture and impurities from system. Because no matter how many times you vacuum and purge with dry nitrogen, you will always have moisture left in system.
I mean, obviously, check guides on youtube, books...

So in the end you'll need:
>vacuum pump
>gauges
>1/4 fill schrader valve
>piercing valves (optional)
>powerful torch (fridges have small tubes, even air isobutane 1,5 kW blowtorch can make copper red hot for brazing)
>solder/brazing rod (depends, there are low-temperature solders with appropriate flux that can handle vibrations, and there are silver-phosphorous rods. Also aluminium brazing rods)
>filter drier
>refrigerant
>nitrogen tank and regulator (optional, but it a good idea to have nitrogen flowing while brazing, and is way cheaper to use nitrogen for leak checking compared to freon)
>possibly swaging and flaring tools
>possibly fitting copper pipe

[Anonymous No.2012670]

>>2012653
>Recover
Ahh let's just say if it accidentally leaks out slowly while it's outside on my patio with fans blowing and I'm not able to notice because I'm at the store, then what can I do about it huh? I tried, right?
>drier
Ok I'll pick up one of these and replace as well, I can see where it is already. Thank you for the heads up.
>You'll need
Got most of this lined up.
>schrader valve
Sorry for dumb question, this would go on the service line for filling, then... crimp it off I assume?

Man anon, seriously thank you so much for all the help. Anything else I should watch out for or be aware of is much appreciated. Can't thank you enough, this makes my day.

[Anonymous No.2012679]

>>2012670
>Sorry for dumb question, this would go on the service line for filling, then... crimp it off I assume?
Most fridges from factory come with a welded shut fill tube on compressor. You cut off the welded end and solder a valve. Obviously you need to remove the core from the valve before soldering, and then put it back.
Since it is R134a, it is safe to leave that valve on, as refrigerant is non-flammable.
>Ahh let's just say if it accidentally leaks out slowly while it's outside on my patio with fans blowing and I'm not able to notice because I'm at the store, then what can I do about it huh? I tried, right?
Most refrigerants aren't toxic.
R134a is a badass greenhouse gas (1000-something times more potent than CO2), so by law, it has to be recovered and recycled.
Unless you vent the fridge in front of EPA's office, nobody will know you vent freon to atmosphere.

Also I think it is possible to repair some parts without brazing by using flared fittings. Idk if anyone had done this before tho

[Anonymous No.2013937]

bump

[Anonymous No.2013963]

Are there any kinds of fridges that’s less prone to having issues? Types such as freezer on top rather than bottom pull, or separate units like in euro. Or brands?

[Anonymous No.2013996]

>>2013963
No.
They all are shit.
I mean, only thing you can do is to make sure it doesn't use (((lokring))) instead of brazing and that is it.

[Anonymous No.2014160]

>>2013963
It's a good question in a market where a fridge can cost anywhere from $300 to $3000.
From my looking at compressors, I can say that most of these things seem to be roughly the same, just slightly different configurations where the coils go, or where the evap goes, or how the air circulates, or how the doors are arranged.
A cynical man might say that when you buy one of the expensive ones, you're paying an extra $1500 for what basically amounts to a different shape of styrofoam.
If I was buying today, I would try craigslist, or FB for a gently used one, or one that sounds like it has an easy fix but the seller just doesn't want to deal with it. Sometimes you can grab it free as long as you pick it up and it might only need a cheap capacitor or relay replacement.

[Anonymous No.2014197]

>>2014160
It is not styrofoam. It is PU foam with aluminium foam and plastic.

[Anonymous No.2014221]

>>2007956
I would guess this but an appliance repairman is a $150 so why TF would you not just call someone

[Anonymous No.2014226]

>>2005628
>cool but not cold

Low on refrigerant or failed compressor.

It's because you bought the Samsung/LG shit.

It's because you bought the Samsung.

[Anonymous No.2014239]

>>2012501

ITS LOW ON FREON. YOU DENSE MOTHERFUCKER. get a can of whatever it takes and top it off until it starts cooling. goddamn what the fuck is wrong with you

[Anonymous No.2014507]

>>2007885
Took the words right out of my mouth.

[Anonymous No.2015150]

>>2014239
Refers aren't just here throw some refrigerant in it and call it a day
One
They need to be tapped as they're sealed out of the factory with to way to access the sealed system without piercing a line or adding a port
Two
It will leak again
This isn't a car

[Anonymous No.2015160]

>>2015150
Just keep adding freon ™

[Anonymous No.2015167]

>>2015160
Yes, have your food be stored improperly and give yourself food poisoning because you couldn't tell if was actually mid 30s or high 40s and you got sasporella
Listen to this tard if you want to gamble like that

[Anonymous No.2015256]

>>2015167
Freon is not toxic. It is not fucking ammonia u know, or whatever other toxic gases they used before

[Anonymous No.2015441]

>>2015256
Room temp IQ, same as the fridge

[Anonymous No.2015462]

>>2015441
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5492461/
Nigga shit is real safe.
Propane is safe to. Isobutane. All gasses uses in fridges are safe.

[Anonymous No.2015483]

>>2015167
>sasporella

That's "salmonella".

[Anonymous No.2015855]

>>2015462
Holy fuck you're dense
It's not the refrigerant that's going to hurt the food
It's the shitty temps it'll be at when the unit is low and OP can't tell and eats bad food full of bacteria
Unless you're actively monitoring temp you can't tell the difference between 37 and 50 degrees but bacteria sure can
>>2015483
https://youtu.be/izedStatTKA
Enrich your life

[Anonymous No.2015888]

>>2015855
Um... You will notice when your temps are shit way before shit gets dangerous.
By 90% duty cycle of compressorfnb

[Anonymous No.2015892]

>>2015888
No you won't
I promise you won't
I've seen it happen hundreds of times
The only fucking time people know something is up is when their ice cream melts and if you have a single evap that's going to be the last thing to go once your shit has been hovering around 50 for a few weeks.
Refrigerators are critically charged systems and if they're off then they aren't cooling properly
You're giving the average consumer far too much credit because they're stupid as fuck and to be fair to them, unless you got an accurate way of checking temps anything below 60 feels kinda cold

[Anonymous No.2015899]

>>2015892
Nigga I had a fridge that I had to gas every months or so. You can easily tell 0C from 10C.

[Anonymous No.2015905]

>>2015899
Good for you, you're an outlier
I fixed the shits for 6 years and heard the same fucking story all the time
"my freezer was kinda working so I thought the fresh food side was too and I got sick. Then my ice cream started melting and I knew something was wrong"
Ice cream and ice makers, if you have those you can probably tell if your shit is broken depending on usage. If you don't, you're at the mercy of bacteria.
Keep pushing your dumb fucking ideas thinking it's a fucking car cooling system

[Anonymous No.2015925]

>>2015905
I have to make one thing very clear. It wasn't an american no-frost where fan blows air in fridge. It was euroslavpoor full frost design.
Capillary tube comes into freezer coil (which is located between trays), and then it goes up into fridge coil. Shit is designed to cool freezer to -18 - -25C, and then small amount of liquid freon cools fridge to 0C - +5C (depending on thermostat setting). And you have only one knob to adjust temperature (so no valves that switch freezer/fridge coils).
So first indication that something is wrong is not fact that your food went shit and now you're shitting liquid, but fact that fridge evap coil is dry, like no moisture on it, no ice, no nothing. Because volume of evap coil in fidge is real small, you notice that leak in prob less than 5 hours. And then you fill until return line on compressor gets a bit of frost on it (so u overcharge it badly). And do this every month or so, until you either fix properly (which you won't because evap coil is behind foam, and it is always an evap coil) or buy new fridge.
Now
>"my freezer was kinda working so I thought the fresh food side was too and I got sick. Then my ice cream started melting and I knew something was wrong"
Those people didn't know fridge is actually shit. But you know, because you gassed it a week ago, so you're careful. Maybe you get a thermometer like I did (just in case).

So yes. Just keep gassing it. Not something fridge repair dude should do, but homeowner defo can keep doing this, because he's the one responsible for his own diharrea.