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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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2005135 No.2005135 [Reply] [Original]

/diy/er's

Im in need of a small (about 100 sq ft.) shed. Question is, for this size, do I bother building a concrete pad (3-4"?) or can I just use block stand offs with pressure treated lumber? Ground location is near a awake and needs some leveling. Afraid of drainage/pad cracking if I go full 'crete.

>> No.2005164

>>2005135
bumping this gem of a shed thread

>> No.2005231

>>2005135
Depends if your ground freezes over or not. Pad is always the safer choice tho, and a reinforced 100sq. ft pad carrying a shed is very unlikely to ever crack. If you live in a warm part of the country where you get no real winters, blocks should do fine if you make the framing sturdy enough.

>> No.2005243

Bumping. I'd like several sheds as part of my homestead planning.

>> No.2005410

Concrete pad. Do it.

>> No.2005420

>>2005135
What part of the world are you in? What weather will it see? What does your local code require? Different cities have different requirements.

What are you putting in it? Loads of heavy garden equipment or just some hand tools and a lawn mower?

Are your neighbors ok or dicks? What I mean is, do you think they'd call the city and bitch about your new shed that you tossed up without a permit?

>> No.2005436
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2005436

>>2005135
i rented a mixer and did a pad about that size for a shed last year with no experience framing or concreting
well worth it
the job is a fucking lot of hard work like that shit is so heavy it seems like it would be just a bit of stuff but it's a lot but it's not very hard and it is very satisfying to have done it.

I think doing a wood floor/foundation would be more difficult albeit less work.

I'd make the call based simply on how permanent you want the shed to be.

>> No.2005441

>>2005135
the other thing is, a wood floor is gonna be a height off the ground. Iunno whether you like that or not. Makes it more difficult to wheel stuff in and out, but it is also kinda cool. You could almost as easily have a real bit of a step up to it, like go a metre off the ground if you wanted.

>> No.2005442

>>2005436
Did you use rebar?

>> No.2005451

>>2005442
nah
it doesn't freeze here and the local building place said don't bother.
It wouldn't have been much harder to have though.

>> No.2005453

>>2005135
I did an 8x16 shed on piers back in 2007. Its still in fine condition, could use a coat of paint.

>> No.2005455

>>2005453
seconding the pier block with pressure treated lumber for a floor frame
using it in our pump house with 2 86g pressure tanks, tools, etc etc. no sinking/sagging.

>> No.2005501

>>2005135
Installed our low budget lowes metal shed 22 years ago. 10x12. Set it on twelve or sixteen 4x8x16 concrete blocks. Everything is metal except for pressure treated 3/4 inch plywood flooring. Holds lots of crap including a riding mower. Have had to rebuild rotted wood ramp 2 times. The doors have taken a beating and the rollers have had to be reworked and the thing looks a little rustic but still stands, keeps everything dry and floor is still solid.

>> No.2005552

>>2005451
I'm assuming since you didn't use rebar you didn't place stone underneath that fabric either
It's still liable to crack whether it freezes or not but at that size maybe you can avoid settling issues. Hope you undercut the topsoil

>> No.2005566
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2005566

>>2005552
i don't know even know what that means
what i did is found this thing buried on the section (presumably it was used to flatten the foundation for the house 70 years ago), dug it out, and attached ropes to it and used it to flatten the land.
I also dug it up some, and added some bags of sand and some gravel

it was pretty even and compacted atleast which seemed right. Iunno.

I don't even really mind if it cracks as long as it doesn't cause any big problems. The house has a few cracks in the concrete floor and i just put a rug over them lol. It's fine.

>> No.2005595

Bought a house last year with a large ish she'd from home depot built in 1998. The previous owners put a French drain with about a 6 inch pipe under it and leveled the shed with concrete blocks.

Our house is mostly flat, at the top of a hill, but on a gradual slope that goes down into a ravine. The shed is about 20ft long and has about a foot height difference from the front to the back. The blocks keep the front about 3 inches above ground and it really helps water go under and into the back yard.

My family member, a retired contractor, said it was ideal to not use a concrete foundation fire this shed

>> No.2005598

>>2005595
The retired contractor did pour a slab for his shed in the Gulf South. But He put up a 20ft tall 4 bay garage with i-beams that's bigger than the house...

>> No.2005723

>>2005566
That's probably fine
All concrete cracks, what you want to avoid is differential settlement (where what's under one side/corner of the slab settles more or less than the rest). That's why it's important to have a consistent and compacted base
Also that's not what that concrete cylinder was used for. It looks like a guy anchor for a utility pole with the eye cut/rusted off

>> No.2005725

>>2005566
What it looks like when you don't use rebar or lay down a base: >>2004922

>> No.2005727

>>2005723
it has the same metal piece on the other side

>> No.2005784

>not building a 35 year fallout shelter under your garden shed
NGMI

>> No.2006500

>>2005453
I built the same sized shed 5 years ago and done the same. Never had any issues with it. We don't really freeze here but it does get fairly wet

>> No.2006628

depends on a lot of things anon. How cold does it get, how wet does it get, do you rent or own the land, what do you plan on storing in it, how long do you want it to be up?

If you own the land and plan on it being a long term structure, plan on storing a bunch of heavy equipment do the concrete pad. If you rent, deal with a lot of rain fall, or only plan on having it up for a couple years, just build a wooden floor frame and rest it on jackstands or cinder blocks.