/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.2003663]

Donated Labor Edition
Old thread: >>2001532
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.

[Anonymous No.2003677]

first for openscad

[Anonymous No.2003727]

Can I get some exa ples of slicer settings?
Currently I'm using AstroPrint. It has three default profiles for Cura: Draft, Normal, and Best. I added a new profile based on ALL3DP's recommended settings. Then, I made profiles for each brand of filament that I bave: JAYO, Hatchbox, etc..
Is this going to far with it? How do you guys do it? Do you just have a general profile for each filament type and use that and just manually edit the settings as a one-off if you need to? Where do you keep your notes for your filaments at? I feel like I may be overthinking this...

[Anonymous No.2003732]

I need some nuts and screws for a print and probably future prints. Think this is worthwhile or downsize a bit?

[Anonymous No.2003735]

>>2003732
And just to be clear I'm asking because you never know when there's something that needs a screw so I figured I'd get it in bulk

[Anonymous No.2003742]

>>2003732
Steel would be a lot cheaper, unless you really need stainless

[Anonymous No.2003746]

Are there any upgrades i should buy or print for my prusa mini?

[Anonymous No.2003752]

>>2003742
No I don't actually. I'll check plain old steel out in the morning. Thanks friend.

[Anonymous No.2003764]

>>2003727
I only use one brand of filament, so there's no need to keep track of which settings work best for which ones.

[Anonymous No.2003767]

>>2003727
>>2003732
get the heat set ones too

[Anonymous No.2003768]

>>2003727
Don't bother with custom profiles for the Ender3, the cura 4.8 stock profiles are great. The only changes I make is the flow percentage for my setup and bed temp

[Anonymous No.2003834]

>have 3 other projects to finish
>let's start another one
I ordered a g305 to mod it a bit, pulled some files off of thingiverse and mix+mash them until i'm satisfied. goal is either a moldform for a carbon fiber shell or I print one of those cheesegrater-shells from nylon

[Anonymous No.2003837]

>>2003834
Could you show the side-on view of that mouse? Judging by the picture it looks like it was originally a compact mouse that you lengthened with a bigger top shell, but I'm curious how you've affixed it to the bottom.
My assumption is that extending the back like that would pitch the whole mouse forward, which would require a wedge running under the mouse almost to the front of it. Also, tilting it like that would lift the sensor further from the desk, right? Does that not impact its ability to register movement?

[Anonymous No.2003846]

>>2003837
its this part https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3673503
it makes the mouse more balanced since the center of gravity in stock form is towards the front, also the hand-resting point is directly over the rear mousefeet which is really nice

[Anonymous No.2003865]

Zup tards.

Just finished installing my newly printed organizer. Took a few tries until it all fit together nicely. I call it 'Good-Luck-Trying-To-Get-Things-From-The-Bottom-With-Your-Fat-Fingers', or GLTTGTFTBWYFF for short.

[Anonymous No.2003885]

>>2003865
Did you design it yourself? It looks neat.

[Anonymous No.2003902]

Does anyone have thoughts on the Ender 5 Plus?

[Anonymous No.2003909]

>>2003885
Thanks m8. Yes, I designed it. You can tell by how shittly designed it is on the right. It will probably work better if I scale it up a little bit and print it with a translucent material. Could work well as a desk organizer.

[Anonymous No.2003929]

>>2003902
I didn't even know there was an ender 4...

[Anonymous No.2003944]

>>2003929
There's an Ender 6 now. Bells and whistles galore. But the 5 Plus has a significantly larger build volume for a similar price, and can be upgraded to have the nice things that come stock on the 6. So I'm wondering what folks think about it.

[Anonymous No.2003973]

I want a translucent filament for RGB memes. Is there a decent PLA for this or should I go with PETG or something?

[Anonymous No.2003978]

>>2003973
I wouldn't recommend PETG for any decorative prints.

[Anonymous No.2003985]

>>2003978
Why not? I think they work better for decorative prints as long as they don't need a lot of details. Like vases or stuff like that.

>>2003973
I got some translucent ABS. Haven't tried it yet though.

[Anonymous No.2003987]

>>2003985
That's exactly why. PETG isn't great with details and you'll end up with tons of stringing and sagging in a detailed print. That stuff lends itself to functional prints, PLA for decorative.

[Anonymous No.2004008]

I need some help.
Last night before calling it for the night, I went to print a low poly lion model. 50% scale, 190 C print temperature, 60 mm/s speed. Infill at 10% with the cubic pattern.
Cooling set to whatever defaults. Printed on a raft because I like pulling the prints off of a raft...
Anyways, I was watching it to make sure everything was going good. Raft went down fine. Model started to print. After just a few minutes, I heard one of the stepper motors skip and now the layer that was printing was off by however much. I cancelled the print and went to bed.
Why did the stepper skip? This is the first time I have had something like this happen. I'm not sure what to do to prevent this sort of thing from happening again. I think my X-axis belt is a little loose but my Y-axis belt twangs when I pluck it. This is a Y-axis stepper skip, right? I'm going to print some tensioners today but I'm not sure that it will help.
Anyways, what do you guys think?

[Anonymous No.2004014]

>>2004008
you fucked up on assembly.
skipped steps are generally caused by mechanical failures
if extruder skips, your hotend is fucked
if any axis skips, there is a point where it binds

[Anonymous No.2004015]

>>2003987
Yeah, I fucking hate PETG, which is why I think its only good point is the glossy exterior. Anything else I use ABS or PLA.

[Anonymous No.2004016]

Is thingiverse down?

[Anonymous No.2004019]

>>2004016

[Anonymous No.2004020]

>>2004019
shit m8, you were faster than I.

[Anonymous No.2004039]

>>2004014
I've printed at least a dozen other things with no issues like this so I don't think it is that. I did have some Z-axis binding in the beginning but that was a quick fix. Bed doesn't wobble and it's been leveled.
I know an anon printed a "Chinky Tools" case a few threads ago and he had the same issue. They determined it was because of the part cooling fan being off turning off the board cooling fan. I wonder if it's similar for me since I had a raft printed and the fan was off. But it went back to being on after the raft was done. That's my only idea.

[Anonymous No.2004046]

>>2004039
corrupted g-code does something similar on my printer. the brim prints (because I'm not a faggot and don't use rafts) and on the first layer just starts clicking and wirring and having an aneurysm. hard to say since you shut it off, but if you run the same file again and it fails in the same place again it's a corrupted file.

[Anonymous No.2004051]

>>2004046
in way over a thousand prints ive never had a corrupted file
not even ejecting the drive

[Anonymous No.2004055]

>>2003978
>>2003987
it would just be for project boxes and stuff, not minifigures or anything

[Anonymous No.2004056]

>>2004051
well good to know it could never happen to you, I assumed you'd only done around 927 prints considering you're here freaking the fuck out on a chinese election review collective and know better than to check anything.

[Anonymous No.2004057]

>>2004046
>because I'm not a faggot and don't use rafts
rafts have perfectly valid use cases

[Anonymous No.2004058]

>>2004057
>furfag pedofile trannies are a valid part of society
that's you, that's how you sound.

[Anonymous No.2004059]

>>2004058
I don't think I agree

[Anonymous No.2004065]

>>2004058
This post tells us more about you than anyone else
>rent free

[Anonymous No.2004066]

>>2003746
You could build an enclosure for it.
Do take note though that power supplies shouldn't get too hot, this shouldn't be an issue with any ordinary enclosure but if you somehow manage to make a crazy insulating one with like 60-80C chamber temp then you're gonna have issues.

[Anonymous No.2004077]

I love this thing
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4610854
I'm about to print it over this weekend, I need to get some threaded rods since I have over 30 of these spools of silicone wire :)
I really like that it is modular.

[Anonymous No.2004078]

>>2004046
I'll have to test it. I'm printing some clips right now. The previous file was generated with AstroPrint but I have the printer connected to a computer today so regular Cura did the slicing for the current ptint. I'll certainly try printing the failed print again and seeing what happens.

[Anonymous No.2004080]

>>2003865
That could work well as a desk organizer. Have you shared the file anywhere? If not, would you?

[Anonymous No.2004083]

>>2003865
what stops the parts from just sliding all the way through, or is there a taper or stop in there?

[Anonymous No.2004086]

>>2004066
The PSU on the Mini is an external power brick like on a laptop, shouldn't be a problem most of the time

[Anonymous No.2004094]

>>2004080
I don't know. It's a pretty shitty project to be honest. I designed it thinking of the surface mode, so if printed straight it looks terrible.

>>2004083
Friction and elephant foot stop it from sliding all the way. It's pretty tight, but not enough that I had to sand it.

[Anonymous No.2004116]

What do you use your empty spools for?

[Anonymous No.2004119]

>>2004086
Oh I didn't know that.
In that case it's pretty much perfect for enclosures.

[Anonymous No.2004121]

I'm surprised by the amount of volume these guys managed to put out with just 585 printers.
Though admittedly, doing the math if every one of those printers runs 24/7 for a whole year that means 50 hours of print time per finished printer so I guess it isn't that crazy.

[Anonymous No.2004128]

It shifted again... Same spot it looks like too. Wish I would have caught it sooner. Gonna try with no raft and see how that goes.

[Anonymous No.2004134]

>>2004128
you notice it always starts on the first infill layer?
check that layer in the slicer for an abnormal long travel move, could be too high acceleration and then it shifts on the breaking slope

[Anonymous No.2004135]

i’m building an enclosure for my ender 3 pro v2 and i’m moving the psu outside the enclosure. what is that connector called that comes off the psu to the printer so i can get an extension

[Anonymous No.2004138]

>>2004135
or second idea. what gauge wire is it? i’ll just solder a longer wire together

[Anonymous No.2004141]

>>2004135
throw it away and use regular wire
the connector is only there so it can be sold as "kit"
put the electronic box outside as well, components do not like ambient temperature above 30°

[Anonymous No.2004146]

>>2004141
you mean the display or the mother board or both?

[Anonymous No.2004171]

I was looking at the Mars 2 Pro but now there's a Mars 2 Mono with exactly the same specs except that the tank is plastic like the Mars 1, no shitty irreplaceable charcoal filter and it has 10mm less z height but it's around $80 less. The description doesn't advertise it as having the linear rail to help the z axis but you can see that it's there in the pictures. Z height is 150mm, would the tank and 10mm height affect much?

[Anonymous No.2004178]

>>2004121
nice subtle shill josef

[Anonymous No.2004179]

Hi everyone.

I need to buy my 1st printer, to print drone parts.

Some guy has offered me a two years old Anet A8 for 72 bucks. Anet A8 plus are sold for 180 bucks, offering larger sizes (300 x 300)

Are these printers reliable? Ender ones are more expensive and smaller

[Anonymous No.2004180]

>>2003865
I like the concept.

[Anonymous No.2004184]

>>2004179
>drone parts
You'll want something that can handle high temps.

[Anonymous No.2004186]

>>2004184
yea, you know, some moderately large protections, some stand, etc.

ender e3 is probably more reliable than anet a8 plus, and better than a8.

[Anonymous No.2004188]

>>2004179
i would never buy used.
You never know what the previous owner did to that machine or if he has modded it to death and given up on the hobby.
Chances of a cripdeath likely way higher than new chinkshit

Do your own research and buy something with a j head hotend or e3d v6 clone. Much less hassle going full metall than on creality mk10 and clones.
No one here can recommend you shit as 99% of posters here only have experience on 1 or 2 different models still getting sold and i am no exception to that...
>>2004184
>ou'll want something that can handle high temps.

[Anonymous No.2004194]

Hmmm
I sliced with Cura on the computer instead of shitty AstroPrint and used a brim instead of a raft. Now I have a different problem bit hopefully the rest goes OK. Hard to tell because the hotend is in the way, but the edges of the brim are coming up.

[Anonymous No.2004211]

>>2004194
Try hair spray

[Anonymous No.2004228]

My filament keeps curling up and turning into a blob on the side of the nozzle, before being dragged across the bed and sticking.
I've tried cold pulling, cleaning the nozzle, and lowering the layer height, but it keeps shooting out blobs that catch on other layers and pulls them up.
It's not the filament, since I switched the filaments out and had the same problem. What gives?

[Anonymous No.2004242]

>>2004178
Fuck you, 100 000 units produced a year is fucking impressive with a couple hundred printers, it really makes you wonder just how well 3d printers truly do compare to injection molding for production.

[Anonymous No.2004244]

>>2004194
>bed not hot enough
>glue stick
>painters tape
>all four

my stuff warps when I print nylon because the bed heat suxxx on my printer. I feel like that's not going to go well...

[Anonymous No.2004245]

>>2004228
Could be the filament is larger in diameter, so the same extrusion rate results in more filament.
Could be it needs a slightly lower temperature.
Do you do a purge line at the beginning of prints? 99% of the time that clears my nozzle, but if something is stuck to the side when it's cold, I just carefully peel it off with a knife or something.

[Anonymous No.2004248]

>>2004242
FDM gives you a lot of design advantages, like not needing draft angles or not needing a second process to make holes in the parts and the like.

[Anonymous No.2004249]

>>2004228
overextrusion

[Anonymous No.2004253]

>>2004128
could be a model flaw the slicer doesn't know what to do with, do you get any warnings?

[Anonymous No.2004255]

>>2004248
True true, I wonder if 3D printing might have a real actual place in proper million units a year tier serious industry producing parts that would be troublesome to make with traditional methods, like obviously not every part of a product would need to be printed but maybe a couple.
I already know that they are very suitable for trial runs and prototype runs etc. and where iterative development is made.

[Anonymous No.2004256]

>>2004255
What can 3d printing do compared to injection molding?

[Anonymous No.2004261]

>>2004255
Or you print up a part and then injection mold another material to fill voids, increasing the strength of the end part. There's a reason people are calling this a new industrial revolution.
>>2004256
See pic. Imagine trying to injection mold this.

[Anonymous No.2004266]

>>2004255
I imagine the problem would be training and troubleshooting. If you're running 10,000 units a day on injection molding and shit fails, the monkey running the machine calls a technician. If you're running 100s of units on 100s of machines, the monkey babysitting the machines kind of needs to be the technician.

>>2004256
design around the need instead of designing around the limitations of injection molding? I don't actually think it's viable.

>>2004261
you wouldn't because you would only ever need one unit.

[Anonymous No.2004267]

>>2004256
It is very easily adaptable to issues noticed after production starts and is capable of producing geometries that are impossible or very troublesome with traditional methods.
Obviously it looses in everything else.

[Anonymous No.2004269]

>>2004266
Yeah maintenance costs will probably be a bit high, a very modular printer with easily quick swappable parts with god tier reliability and sub 1000-2000$ price is a must.
Obviously currently there is nothing like that on the market but it's not actually all that big of a technological hurdle to develop such a machine.

[Anonymous No.2004276]

>>2004266
>you wouldn't because you would only ever need one unit.
I was only using it as an example of otherwise impossible geometry, not a use case for mass production.

[Anonymous No.2004282]

>>2004276
so you just need to come up with an impossible geometry that has an important use case AND cannot be designed around for another production process. And I don't know what that's supposed to be but you'll find similar structures inside modern expensive athletic shoes, so your pic isn't a real good example either.

My bet is you won't actually find a good example of anything both necessitating mass production and impossible to produce otherwise.

[Anonymous No.2004284]

>>2004282
That pic is a radiator for a supercar and it's only a matter of time before designs like it become commonplace in consumer/fleet vehicles.

[Anonymous No.2004286]

>>2004211
>>2004244
I'll try hairspray I guess. Bed temp was 60.
I tried tape and while it worked really well, it was a complete bitch to get off of the bottom of the print. It stuck to and came off the bed easily enough. Sucked having to line up the tape perfectly with though. I saw they have sheets of it for sale but I don't want to deal with removing it from the bottom of the print.

[Anonymous No.2004289]

>>2004286
FWIW, my glass bed takes a while for the heat to get up to temperature, so I set it to preheat the bed for a few minutes before starting the print. I recommend checking the top surface temp with a thermometer of some sort.
Tape doesn't really work well with PLA in my experience. Good to have if you're painting parts after, though.

[Anonymous No.2004294]

Friendship ended with AstroPrint
Now Cura is my best friend

[Anonymous No.2004297]

>>2004286
yeah, I like the tape because it stays on my glass for multiple prints and I only replace it when it gets damaged or a bit of PLA permanently sticks to it. If the tape didn't stay down it wouldn't be worth using- I learned early not to use the tape to pull up the model, but I do still pull it up to get under the brim. I also stopped printing an inflexible flat side directly on the bed because even with tape that shit is impossible to separate.

[Anonymous No.2004303]

>>2004294

[Anonymous No.2004311]

>>2004039
>They determined it was because of the part cooling fan being off turning off the board cooling fan.
I am the chinky tools anon. And yes, on early revisions of the ender 3(like mine) the part cooling fan is on the same PWM channel as the board fan. My steppers haven't lost any steps and fucked up coordinates since I've rewired the board fan. Later revisions of the e3 do fix this, however. I'm just not sure what version they switched over.

[Anonymous No.2004317]

>>2003677
second

[Anonymous No.2004318]

>>2004311
>Later revisions of the e3 do fix this
[Citation needed]

As far as I know the E3V2 still has this problem because it uses the 4.2.7 board which is still affected by this.

[Anonymous No.2004322]

I'm finally approaching my ideal box design.
>Lazy (no glue, no tapping, only printing)
>Super-high tolerance (also no bridges (45 degree slopes instead), no supports)
>Aesthetic (no stuff outside the box volume)
>Robust (no break-y high-precision snappy bendy parts, metal bolts and nuts do the job)
There are two improvements to be done for the nut slot:
>make it small enough so it cannot rotate with the bolt
>add a ledge so it doesn't easily fall out before inserting the bolt
Then I will be set on making my relay computer components (boxes full of relays).

[Anonymous No.2004323]

>>2004322
I even ordered square nuts from Poland (couldn't find any in Lithuania lol) to increase tolerance over regular hexagon nuts

[Anonymous No.2004324]

>>2003732
Don't forget the matching brass inserts

[Anonymous No.2004337]

>>2003732
the majority of that kit is probably the M2 bolts, which is ABSOLUTELY FUCKING TINY.

I've had good luck with self tapping ATX screws into my prints. You can get fairly large quantities of those for next to nothing online.

[Anonymous No.2004345]

>>2004324
Testing has shown that epoxying hex nuts works as well for much cheaper.

[Anonymous No.2004348]

>>2003865
>Beeposters
Why not make the height modular by having differently sized stacking walls? Then you could remove bits to get your fat bee fingers in there.

[Anonymous No.2004428]

>>2004324
>>2004345
Testing has shown that brass inserts are 80% more aesthetic.

[Anonymous No.2004431]

>>2004428
>ywn have a metal printing printer
I WANT TO PRINT EVERYTHING IN SHINY BRASS

How do I cope bros??

[Anonymous No.2004440]

how retarded is it to power a raspberry pi from the psu using a buck converter to the gpio pins? should i just go to usb power in instead ?

[Anonymous No.2004453]

>>2004440
Not retarded at all. As long as the power supply is regulated at 5v it'll be fine.

[Anonymous No.2004470]

tent might be a litte high so I'll print a flat base in transparent PLA when it comes in and see how that feels.

[Anonymous No.2004480]

I had an issue with my Ender 3 where the extruder cog popped up during a print, meaning it stopped extruding and the print failed. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions on how to stop it from happening again? I think it happened because the filament somehow slipped under it while it was printing. I haven't seen anyone with the same problem online, and I don't know how to stop it from happening again short of glueing a washer on above it, or upgrading my extruder.

[Anonymous No.2004492]

>>2004480
thats a first. tighten the set scews nice and hard.

[Anonymous No.2004524]

How to I alter the Ender 3 firmware to allow for printing up to 300 celsius? It’s capped at 260 C, but I currently have upgrades that’ll allow me to print with Nylon, if I can change that extrusion temperature cap to 300.

[Anonymous No.2004539]

>>2004284
No, a radiator can be made from stamped and folded aluminum. Mass production is not going to use 3d printers over other means. Let me tell you as a manufacturing engineer.

[Anonymous No.2004548]

Can you guys give me an example of what settings you use for printing this temperature tower? I just printed it with some silky PLA and it took almost two hours. I feel like it shouldn't take that long.
>pic related from the thingiverse page

[Anonymous No.2004550]

>get new hotend
>it's longer than my old one
>so long that the semi-auto calibration can't handle it
>???

how do normal printers handle this situation???

[Anonymous No.2004555]

>>2004550
What if you move the Z-stop up slightly so that the printer interprets its lowest possible height as being slightly higher?

[Anonymous No.2004556]

>>2004322
>>2004323
I'm glad you got square nuts anon since you obviously can't count to 6.

also I have no clue what you're designing.

[Anonymous No.2004560]

>>2004555
I actually did that during the semi-auto calibration, but it used the z-height from before the calibration and scraped my nozzle along my buildplate anyway.

[Anonymous No.2004569]

>>2004560
>but it used the z-height from before the calibration
I don't understand, doesn't the Z-stop physically prevent the Z-axis from moving past it, even if it ignores the switch press?

[Anonymous No.2004573]

>>2004569
i don't fucking know, I started drinking to forget about it and deal with it tomorrow, whatever I tried doing to the printer is getting fuzzy

[Anonymous No.2004574]

Do you see this piece of shit? It's supposedly an upgrade to the default extruder on Creality's 3D printers. Well in the image it shows the arm with a black hex socket head screw. In reality it comes with a silver one. Black one is more like a rod in the middle. The silver one is just a regular screw. These screws go through one of the extruder gears, and inside of that gear is a needle bearing. Apparently, the silver screw wears out the needle bearing within a few weeks to a few months depending on how much you print.
Does anyone know where you might find one of the screws that has a rod in the middle instead of threads? I measured it and it's approximately 3 mm in diameter bye 23 or 27 mm in length. One guy on the Amazon listing wrote that he took a 4 mm diameter screw and used his metal lathe to trim it down so that the center was a rod and then he rethreaded the end. I don't have access to a metal lathe unfortunately, so I'm looking to just buy one.

[Anonymous No.2004600]

>>2004574
find the right diameter and body length in a 3mm cap head add hacksaw/dremel and boom.

protip thread a nut past the cut before cutting and filing tip

https://www.ebay.com/itm/M3-0-50-x-30mm-Qty-10-SOCKET-HEAD-CAP-Screws-12-9-Alloy-Steel-Black-Ox-3mm/111147180587?hash=item19e0e3622b:g:PKoAAOSwf-VWUnAE

[Anonymous No.2004646]

>>2004574
>Creality

[Anonymous No.2004688]

>>2004574

Those things are known to be shit. Just replace the whole fucking thing. EZR Struder is pretty awesome and it costs 35 bucks, that aluminum chinese shit costs like 15.

>Set up my V2
>Wanna get a cheap ender 3 just to fuck with
>Remember setting mine up
>Don't wanna do that again

[Anonymous No.2004694]

>>2004646

Honestly, on one hand, I regret getting a Creality, because I've replaced pretty much every single part on it, except for the actual frame and movement motors. Yet. On the other hand, I wasn't sure whether I would get into it, so I didn't want to spend money on a better model. So now I'm thinking I'll give this one to my little brother, and then get myself one of the $1000 bucks ones.

[Anonymous No.2004698]

>>2004574
>needle bearings bracing directly against fucking screw threads
holy shit the chinks are fucking amazing, I could have never come up with something that retarded myself even if I tried

[Anonymous No.2004703]

>>2004179
>Anet A8
Do NOT buy that printer. It is downright notorious for house fires, I'm not even joking, google it. Not in a "oh yeah it might cause one" way, because A8's have caused MULTIPLE fires

[Anonymous No.2004705]

>>2004703
If you can give a printer an addon that alerts you when it runs out of filament, surely you can give it an addon that automatically shuts off when some thermistors read over a set value.

[Anonymous No.2004712]

>>2004703
>>2004705
Yeah just upgrade the firmware.

[Anonymous No.2004714]

>>2003663
how was that tiny dino made?

[Anonymous No.2004715]

>>2004714
nvm, I'm retarded. Can It reliably print 0.25 mm wide channels?

[Anonymous No.2004734]

Whats the best cheap and dirty way to silence an Ender 3? Im thinking of jusy throwing it in a rubbermaid and putting a blanket over it, but I dont want the heat to ruin the printer/print. Any ideas? The silent board only seems to reduce by around 8-10db based on what Ive seen online

[Anonymous No.2004738]

>>2004734
I've heard that setting a printer on top of a slab of paving stone can do a lot to quiet vibration noises.

[Anonymous No.2004742]

>>2004524
if you cant figure that out you better stay away from flashing the firmware

[Anonymous No.2004764]

>printing large decorative print
>been printing two days
>flawless first 95%
>slight y-shifts right at the top
>right on the connector piece
>not enough of that filament left to reprint until new roll comes in

[Anonymous No.2004780]

>>2004734
Take the bigtree board pill and spend $30 on a new motherboard.
I got one for $5 and it was would happily pay 30 for it. Steppers are so quiet you will be pissed off by the fans instead. For the fans, spend $15 and get a noctua to replace the frontmost fan. People like to make the psu fan a pc fan also.

basically spend the money because it will be worth it as soon as you turn it on.

[Anonymous No.2004784]

>>2004734
>>2004780
This. The $30 for the board and $whatever for new drivers is worth it just so it's not a loud piece of shit all night. The new mobo gives access to a bunch of extra features too, which is great for further upgrades like ABL or lighting.

[Anonymous No.2004790]

>>2004784
Pay 60$ and get the SKR 1.4 so you have removable drivers and support for more than 4 steppers.

[Anonymous No.2004792]

>>2004790
>pay more
>less convenient

[Anonymous No.2004794]

>>2004792
>pay more
>get better board with more features
???

[Anonymous No.2004797]

>>2004794
never use it because you still have you ender 3...

[Anonymous No.2004803]

>>2004784
>just so it's not a loud piece of shit all night
Is the Ender 3 normally considered loud?
I have a stock Ender 3 and it's no louder than something like a box fan. I have no problem sleeping while it's running.

[Anonymous No.2004812]

>>2004797
>never use it because you still have you ender 3...
>not expanding the functions of one of the most /diy/ printers on the market
ISHYGDDT

[Anonymous No.2004828]

>>2004812
>buy ender 3
>mod it into a cr10
>spent 200$ more on it
>still smaller build volume

[Anonymous No.2004831]

>>2004803
I speak from experience with a CR-10 with stock drivers and the 8-bit board. That thing had a pretty loud driver hum until I put in the new drivers; enough to hear through two doors faintly. I don't know if the Ender 3 is any different, but I figure if they were made around the same time, they probably share a number of parts.

[Anonymous No.2004835]

>>2004828
Nice reading comprehension
I was talking about other mods you could do like dual Z screw, multi material printing, filament sensors etc.

That being said the CR-10 has a 300*300*400 build area while the largest ender extender kit gives you 400*400*500.

[Anonymous No.2004838]

>>2004812
Dual Z screw I didn't ever find really necessary but it can be a good mod you're right about that.
>>2004828
>>2004835
I don't get why people have printers with such big print volume when they end up being really slow. At that point build a big corexy like a voron v2.

[Anonymous No.2004847]

>>2004838
>I don't get why people have printers with such big print volume when they end up being really slow
Because sometimes you just need the big volume. I do agree that it's not optimal to use a big bed slinger like a CR-10 as your main printer.
Also it's only as fast as you make it. A big stepper and linear rails for the bed is all you really need to get some decent XY feedrates going. If you want to go even faster you'll have to invest in a Volcano hotend.

[Anonymous No.2004851]

>>2004838
>have printers with such big print volume when they end up being really slow
Do larger printers move slower? Or rather, do they have more print quality problems when they move faster than a smaller printer would?
I've got an Ender 3 right now, but most of the stuff I print only uses something like a quarter of the bed space. Would it be worthwhile to buy an additional smaller printer? How much faster can they be?

[Anonymous No.2004852]

>>2004851
They move at the same pace. If you want to go faster you need to go corexy. Vorons are a good choice but you have to build them yourself. They are really fast tho. If you need smaller space look at the voron 0.

[Anonymous No.2004854]

>>2004838
stock cr10 runs almost exactly the same acceleration value as the ender 3

[Anonymous No.2004856]

>>2004854
Sorry I spoke weirdly. I mean that they still print as slow as the ender 3.

[Anonymous No.2004862]

>>2004851
Larger bed is more mass to accelerate, so you can't turn your acceleration as high as you can with a smaller one. Also you have higher chances of vibrations on the Y axis.
It is possible to make a bed slinger go fast, even something big like a CR-10, but you need to modify it and you have to know what the fuck you are doing if you don't want to lose print quality in exchange for speed.

[Anonymous No.2004894]

Frens, noob here.
I am gonna buy a Creality Ender 3 Pro (and 1kg of PLA and 1kf of ABS filament) next week, I've read the pastebin and some resources, still any other pitfalls or things I should know or do before?

[Anonymous No.2004899]

>>2004894
Start with PLA. ABS is harder to print because it requires higher temperatures and can be fussy about drafts and such.
Assuming the printer comes in a kit that you have to assemble yourself, make sure the frame is completely square as you put it together.
If you build it crooked, it's going to cause a ton of headaches down the line.

[Anonymous No.2004905]

>>2004899
This, and also adjust your eccentric nuts as you put it together because they will never be easier to access

[Anonymous No.2004909]

I present you the ender y axis fix.

on the stock bed the belts are not pulled parallel to the axis but on an angle.
This results in the bed not moving linear with the stepper axis and in my case is introducing >0.10mm error over a 2cm print along its y axis.
I shimmed the underside so the belt runs parallel with the axis

[Anonymous No.2004924]

>>2004909
I can't hate you anon

[Anonymous No.2004925]

>>2004905
parenting advice on my /diy/?

[Anonymous No.2004930]

>>2004764

[Anonymous No.2004972]

Can you easily print an enclosure for an Ender 3 from an Ender 3?

[Anonymous No.2004982]

>>2004972
that's going to be alot of prints, anon.

[Anonymous No.2005012]

>>2004972
>easily

[Anonymous No.2005044]

>>2004764
Should have bought a Prusa

[Anonymous No.2005062]

Any tips, tricks and recommend upgrades?

Pic related part I just printed 95% finished.

Ender 3 pro (all factory parts)
PLA
Nozzle temp 200°c
Bed temp 60°c

[Anonymous No.2005068]

how do you know which way to orientate your 3d model? is it just something you just gotta keep messing around with until you get it right or is there some kind of "rule of thumb" to follow? like longer objects should be tilted a bit or something like that?

im fairly new to all of this and just got an elegoo mars about a month ago. so far all the stuff ive been printing out had supports and were already set up and ready to go for printing without any tweaks. but ive ran into some models that didnt offer any of that.

[Anonymous No.2005077]

>>2005068
Pics of models broski

[Anonymous No.2005085]

>>2005077
there are a bunch of others, mostly tabletop minis but this was one i wanted to do for a friend.

[Anonymous No.2005098]

>>2005068
print hommer standing up, cut off his arms at his sleeves, and print bort on his back

[Anonymous No.2005109]

So tempted to buy one, I just don't have any modeling skills to make it seem worth it.

[Anonymous No.2005113]

>>2005109
you don't need much skill to get started. just look for useful things on thingiverse and start learning to do basic edits with 3dbuilder

[Anonymous No.2005120]

>>2004909
Did you make a before/after print?

[Anonymous No.2005128]

>>2005120
dozens
this is something ive observed for half a year when i tune my extrusion, but never bothered fixing.
Im aware this is an issue that plagues like 90 of all chink and some wrong designed diy printers, its just so minuscule that its not the end of the world as most People design with rather large tolerances or print to fit anyway

[Anonymous No.2005134]

So brazilians started this thing called benchy society. I think is cute.

[Anonymous No.2005150]

>>2005134
better than jesus fish

[Anonymous No.2005155]

>>2005150
The Christian infidels are almost as bad as the delta heretics.
May they burn for all eternity in an A8 house fire.

[Anonymous No.2005157]

>>2005113
Not that dude but how the fuck do you even edit STLs?
The only way I found so far is to use surface from mesh and knit the resulting surfaces so you get a solid body. Unfortunately that shit's a pain for anything more complex than an XYZ cube.

[Anonymous No.2005168]

>>2003663
is there a place to buy filament on clearance, and only on clearance? some place that aggregates filament clearance sales for extra cheap plastic?

[Anonymous No.2005171]

>>2005062
make sure your printer is firmly connected to the floor by loosening gantry screws, pressing down on the gantry, and retightening them.
make sure you are extruding as much filament as your electronics think you are - print a test cube and ensure its dimensions are correct
try upping your extruder temp in 5 degree increments up to about 220

[Anonymous No.2005172]

>>2004899
>>2004894
isn't ASA the better material anyway for nearly all applications?
lower temp requirements, no poison fumes, less warp, better UV resistance?

[Anonymous No.2005173]

>>2004574
Fucking beautiful. A same-size shoulder screw like McMaster-Carr # 91273A328 would be a better choice.

[Anonymous No.2005174]

>>2005168
I doubt it but if you're looking to cheap out on filament there are places that sell b stock and differently colored filament (extruded while they swapped the pellets).

[Anonymous No.2005180]

>>2005173
Misread the Vernier calipers. The correct # is 91273A333.

[Anonymous No.2005199]

What could be causing this much intermittent under extrusion? Nothing in my setup has changed since I was getting good parts and this splotchy mess. Same filament, hasn't been too long since good parts so it shouldn't be moisture, same temperatures, same slicer settings...

[Anonymous No.2005201]

>>2005199
Too close to bed. How long has it been since your last leveling?

[Anonymous No.2005203]

>>2005201
BLtouch and it does it throughout the whole print, I tossed the last one and started another to see if it was extrusion tension, but unrolling some filament for this print and it's still doing it and will continue.

[Anonymous No.2005204]

>>2005199
could be a partial clog. I've had that issue many times

[Anonymous No.2005205]

>>2005201
It's clearly not too close to the bed
>>2005199
A mild clog inside your hotend, I suggest you ditch it and buy a good hotend like an E3D v6 as a replacement.

[Anonymous No.2005221]

What is this called and what causes it?

[Anonymous No.2005225]

>>2005221
Heres a really good pic of it
It looks and feels rough

[Anonymous No.2005239]

>>2004600
>>2005173
Thanks lads, should be a good replacement. I appreciate it.

[Anonymous No.2005241]

>>2005221
>>2005225
what exactly is the question?

[Anonymous No.2005244]

>>2005225
>>2005221
are you talking about slight pockmarks in the extrusion? could be PID jitter, could be poor filament consistency, could be moisture in the filament
Unless that's a highly load bearing part it's not worth caring about

[Anonymous No.2005251]

Is freecad the go to software now after the confusion 360 fucked up their free version?

[Anonymous No.2005253]

>>2005251
no, it's open ass cad

[Anonymous No.2005257]

>>2005251
Nope
Buy AutoCAD

[Anonymous No.2005260]

>>2005241
Why is the surface of this print so rough?

>>2005244
Its just rough looking. It feels really rough too. It also looks like shit because of it. Its just a stupid cat silhouette for the corner of a window or something.

[Anonymous No.2005261]

>>2005155

[Anonymous No.2005265]

>>2004524
what did you upgrade? AMHE, enclosure, hardened tip, driver board because QOL, and fan shroud, but anything else?

[Anonymous No.2005267]

>>2005221
>>2005225
My bet is moisture in your filament

The water boils when it hits the hotend and pops out, causing a bubble

[Anonymous No.2005269]

>>2005251
It's perfectly usable, and for free software that you can use commercially without getting into trouble it doesn't really have an equal. There's quite a ways to go before we can call it "the Blender of CAD" though

[Anonymous No.2005270]

Nya~

[Anonymous No.2005273]

>>2005267
I thought PLA didn't have those problems? I just opened the spool yesterday. All of the other prints seemed OK. It's a mystery...

[Anonymous No.2005274]

>>2005260
either imperfections in the nozzle, moist filament, underextrusion

[Anonymous No.2005278]

>>2005221
>>2005225
>looks and feels rough
As in, the entire surface feels rough like sandpaper?
Your nozzle is slightly too close to the bed. It's digging into the plastic and making ridges.
Try lowering your bed a little bit.

[Anonymous No.2005282]

>>2005273
iron your print or extrude more

[Anonymous No.2005285]

>>2005273

[Anonymous No.2005302]

>>2005273
PLA actually does have those issues sometimes, even fresh rolls.

[Anonymous No.2005318]

>>2005239
You bought the 16mm shoulder, right? I fucked up the scale reading when suggesting the 12mm.

[Anonymous No.2005346]

is it uncommon for different colors of pla filament from the same brand to print wildly different?

Santa got me a spool of orange hatchbox pla and it's been a dream to print with, and i bought another spool of black from hatchbox and it's a fucking nightmare- severe warping, unbelievable stringing, delamination, etc

[Anonymous No.2005349]

>>2005251

i used freecad before fusion 360 was used as bait with the hobby license...

if you want to make simple parts really quickly you are struggle with the learning curve as its parametric all the way, but once you get past the learning curve you will be able to make just about any part.

[Anonymous No.2005369]

>>2005349
what exactly does parametric mean anyway?

[Anonymous No.2005381]

>>2005369
Let's say you want to model 1000 different screws. Would you want to do this manually, or would you rather write a script that pulls the relevant dimensions from a table, and triggers a recalculation of the 3D model for each screw?

[Anonymous No.2005396]

Is nylon good for making action figure (hinge, pin, and ball) joints that stay tight? What is a better plastic for that?

[Anonymous No.2005400]

>>2005171
thanks for the tips!!

[Anonymous No.2005401]

>>2005396
Polypropylene is better for snap fits.

[Anonymous No.2005405]

>>2005401
>$58 for .7kg (2.85mm) plus $20 for super special buildplate adhesive

wew lad

[Anonymous No.2005414]

>>2005396
It's about getting the tolerances between parts super tight with a material that won't deform over time or wear against itself

[Anonymous No.2005418]

>>2005405
You asked for "better." Nylon's suitable for low-cycle compliant mechanisms as well. No matter what, you have to design the mechanism for the target material.

[Anonymous No.2005419]

>>2005405
Apparently you can use packaging tape since it has polypropylene within it.

[Anonymous No.2005437]

>>2005401
>>2005418
What about acetal/Delrin/POM?

[Anonymous No.2005443]

>>2005257
What is this, 1995?

[Anonymous No.2005445]

>>2005437
If what you're after is a reasonable life, the criterion is flexural strength / flexural modulus (higher better). You want to be able to deform the material. However, the absolute values matter for just picking the geometry to match the material.

Read Larry Howell's book.

[Anonymous No.2005470]

>>2005349
Aren't you confusing it with openscad? Freecad doesn't have to be parametric, you can just sketch out a model if you want. In fact the parametric side is kind of awkward because you have to make a spreadsheet and manually type in an alias for each cell you want to use.

[Anonymous No.2005483]

>>2005396
Lego is made from ABS and they have all sorts of joints

[Anonymous No.2005487]

>>2005251
>fucked up their free version?
explain? I've been getting weird messages, are they going to fuck me in the near future?

[Anonymous No.2005489]

>>2005487
They've been stripping features, like being able to export in some file types.
You don't own what you make with F360. Remember that.

[Anonymous No.2005490]

>>2005155

[Anonymous No.2005491]

>>2005085
>guess
>slice
>preview
>guess again

I'd print that one exactly as oriented, maybe tip homer back 15º. you're going to have a mad mess of supports no matter what homie

[Anonymous No.2005492]

>>2005134
WHERE DO I GET ONE?

[Anonymous No.2005493]

>>2005490
How stiff are the bed springs?
Do you have combing enabled?

[Anonymous No.2005494]

>>2005270
>>2005273
could you be more basic than to print literal blocks and a fucking stencil?

[Anonymous No.2005495]

>>2005492
From your printer...

[Anonymous No.2005516]

>>2005445
>Larry Howell's book

neat, will do

[Anonymous No.2005518]

>>2005318
I haven't bought one yet. $5 for a bolt is annoying. I did go check Ace and they didn't have the right piece there. I'll make sure I do order the right one, assuming I do. I ended up printing one, we will see if it works or not. This gear actually had two needle bearings and I stepped on one so I'm considering just getting a better extruder. BMG extruder or maybe EZ Struder. I do want to print flexible material some day so I can make custom stamps for the lady.

[Anonymous No.2005551]

So I have an ender3 that I just got around to replacing the hotend on and had to reflash it. Now it seems a bit slower so I found some settings online for jerk and acceleration. does 10 and 3000 seem high? Its printing ok but seems like its a bit rough on the belts at this pace. Im going to leave the jerk at 10 and change the acceleration to 2000 and see how it is.

What kind of settings do yous use? Printing at 80mm infill 60 inner wall and 40 outer layer.

[Anonymous No.2005560]

>>2005492
thing:4715217
thing:4722736

[Anonymous No.2005583]

>>2004790
>>2004780
I posted bigtree, but what I meant was an SKR.
I have like 3 boards I got for basically free and the skr fit right into the ender3, not sure which revision i think its a 1.3

Either way, its easily the best upgrade for your ender3, The steppers make 1/10th the amount of noise after the drop in swap.

[Anonymous No.2005590]

>>2005490
>delta
bitch deserved it

[Anonymous No.2005626]

>>2005583
they aren't even loud to begin with?

[Anonymous No.2005782]

Anyone know a good place to find a copy of Simplify3D?

[Anonymous No.2005830]

>>2004431
watch this https://youtu.be/OkuVwBqNr4k

[Anonymous No.2005906]

>>2005518
Holy fuck this thing was a piece of shit. I ended up going back to the original Creality stepper motor and original extruder. Piece of shit... I want to upgrade to a dual drive, but I'm not sure what one I should get.
I ordered a V6 clone and it turned out to be 12V, which is entirely irritating. Cancelled the order before it arrived. So I have another on the way, this time in 24V. Hopefully it works. I'm kind of confused about how to get it to actually work with the Ender 3 Pro, seems like I have to upgrade the firmware to get it to read either the thermistor or the heater cartridge? I just realized I probably could have just used the stock cartridge and bought a 24V one...
This hobby is fun, but it feels like it has a huge learning curve. I spent 10 hours trying to get that piece of shit red extruder to work before just going back to default.
Thanks for reading my gay blog.

[Anonymous No.2005915]

bout to order myself an ender 3 pro. other than some filament is there anything else i should order with it? spare parts, necessary upgrades, weird tools i might not have, etc

[Anonymous No.2005917]

Hey bros, I upgraded my heated bed from 12v to mains 120V. When the heated bed is on, to either reach or maintain temperature, the incandescent lights in my room kinda flash. Is this a grounding issue, or is this to be expected from a shitbox apartment?

[Anonymous No.2005922]

>>2005915
You should get an accurate pair of calipers for measuring stuff. You need it to be accurate down to 0.01.mm. Get some "Capricorn Tubing" to upgrade the regular PTFE tubing that it comes with. Make sure you get the bundle that comes with the tube cutter.
A lot of the upgrades you can print. Different fan shrouds/cooling solutions. Little add-ons like moving your filament from top to side/bottom. A good set with a mix of metric screws/nuts/bolts starting at M2x5 and going up from there would be helpful for building things. Heat set metric threaded inserts helps for adding threads to parts that don't have them.
You could get a glass bed to upgrade the stock one, but don't use it if you are printing with PETG, it'll stick too much and fuck it up. I think without upgrading the hotend and firmware you can only print PLA, PETG, and ABS.
There are some advanced upgrades like BLTouch which is automatic bed leveling (software based, it doesn't actually level your bed physically). Oh, you might want to get a set of feeler gauges if you don't have those for leveling your bed...
Get an assortment of MK8 nozzles. You'll mainly be using the 0.4mm ones by default, but they go smaller and bigger. You could get a better nozzle type instead of brass like stainless steel or ruby lined.
Lots of possibilities!

[Anonymous No.2005925]

>>2005915
Oh I forgot to mention, you should get a nozzle socket wrench like pic related. It only works for the MK8 nozzles (default) but it's well worth it. I think there is a bundle that comes with nozzles, too.

[Anonymous No.2005931]

Is it possible that my print bed is raising itself up mid print? I've always felt like it was odd that I needed to relevel the bed every few hours of printing, but this last print is ridiculous. I watched the first layer go down perfectly fine, not too close or too far from the nozzle, but in the time it took me to make some coffee the nozzle was fucking carving right through the second layer

what the fuck do i do

[Anonymous No.2005936]

>>2005931
forgot pic

[Anonymous No.2005982]

>>2005936
overextrusion, lower the flowrate in the slicer

[Anonymous No.2005985]

So I'm printing in PETG for the first time, got my print bed at 80°, with hairspray on the surface, and I'm still getting this problem, what do yall recommend as a next step?

[Anonymous No.2005996]

>>2005982
is it common to have a flow rate like 66%?

[Anonymous No.2005999]

>>2005985
Ditch cooling, print slower.

[Anonymous No.2006002]

>>2005996
no, there is likely more borked in your profile/firmware
>>2005985
show underside

[Anonymous No.2006004]

>>2005551
I'm curious about this too, how fast you guys print on the ender 3?

[Anonymous No.2006005]

>>2005985

That printbed glass? PETG, under the right circumstances, can stick to (un-tempered) glass so well that it pulls chunks out of it when you go to remove it.

Never tried hairspray with PETG, and had poor luck with glue stick. I find that a bare glass bed works best, with the caveat that it must be impeccably clean. Use a squeegee, not paper towel/TP.

[Anonymous No.2006012]

Should I get the Tronxy X5SA or the X5SA pro? It would be my third printer, and I'm planning on upgrading the mainboard, extruder, hotend, and PSU at the very least.
Would the pro be worth it just for the linear rails?

[Anonymous No.2006016]

>>2005996
No, to expand on what >>2006002 said, specifically in your firmware, check your e-steps. To test using your printer, extrude a certain length of filament, and measure to check if it's similar.

[Anonymous No.2006022]

>>2006004
Well All last nite i messed around with it and now have the acceleration at around 1050 and jerk at 10 and it printing a bit better then it used to before the hotend and firmware flash.

[Anonymous No.2006027]

>>2004431
melting brass produces toxic fumes and is one of the few DIY things that can outright kill you. the more you know.

[Anonymous No.2006028]

>>2005917
Uh, why? Why not from 12 -> 24

[Anonymous No.2006039]

>>2005917
you're pulling too many amps so you're nearing the circuit breaker limit. add a blender or toaster to the same outlet and see if it trips the breaker or starts a fire.

[Anonymous No.2006045]

>>2005917
>incandescent lights
Why?

[Anonymous No.2006051]

Bout to order some parts to upgrade my ender 3.
>E3D V6
>BMG extruder

Should I get anything else? Im buying from trianglelabs on aliexpress.

[Anonymous No.2006061]

>Ender 3, direct extrusion on stock parts
>ABS, 230C, 60mm/s, 800mm/s2
Just fell for the Klipper meme. Spent whole day setting it up, calibrated esteps and got this.
Horrible blobs on first 10 solid layers. What do?

[Anonymous No.2006065]

>>2006061
live with it, not worth the effort.
this happens because your extrusion is not perfect and on solid layers the perimeter gets pushed out by the solid infill

[Anonymous No.2006067]

>>2006065 It was perfectly fine on Merlin.

[Anonymous No.2006076]

just got my ender 3 pro v2
got 2kg of creality filament
can you anons help a noob out on filament brands that are worth a shit to buy

[Anonymous No.2006078]

>>2003663
Test

[Anonymous No.2006083]

Wish me luck! Hopefully I don't come home to a steaming pile of plastic.

[Anonymous No.2006088]

print time 44 hours so far, biggest print I've ever done

[Anonymous No.2006089]

>>2006061
>>Ender 3, direct extrusion on stock parts
>fell for the Klipper meme
What problems where you trying to solve?

>Horrible blobs on first 10 solid layers
congratulations

[Anonymous No.2006099]

>>2006051
Why not just get a Titan Aero instead?

[Anonymous No.2006105]

Thinking about printing resin molds with silicone filament on a ender 3, anyone have experience with silicone filament?

[Anonymous No.2006108]

>>2006028
You don't understand how much ass this thing rips. What temp can you actually expect a 24v bed to get to anyways? I may just opt to do that in the future. It took me like 30 mins to get up to 80°C on my 12v heated bed.
>>2006039
Nice. It's really not too intense so I think I'll be fine, and the breakers are functioning, so a fire from current draw shouldn't be an issue, I think?
>>2006045
I like the warm light and good color rendering index. I hate everything about fluorescent and haven't tried LED lights. Plus the apartment charges the same for electricity unless I go over, and I haven't gone over in the past, so I kind of don't care about efficiency.

[Anonymous No.2006111]

>>2006108
A 24V bed easily gets to 115C.

[Anonymous No.2006114]

>>2006105
What is silicone filament?
Silicone isn't a thermoplast so you can't print it by melting

[Anonymous No.2006115]

>>2006111
Ah, I'm a fucking retard and plan to print in PEEK and such, so that doesn't really cut it. Maybe that temp would go up if the bed was in a heated chamber, but I'd rather not stress about being right on the edge of being able to print and just use a mains powered bed.

[Anonymous No.2006120]

>>2005773
Try Filaments.ca

[Anonymous No.2006121]

>>2006115
I'm pretty sure it's a thermistor thing.
My E3's bed goes up to 115C max but it doesn't struggle to reach that temperature. I'm pretty sure it could to more but I don't know what thermistor I need as a replacement to let it go higher.

[Anonymous No.2006122]

>>2006115
>print in PEEK
>120v heated bed

hardcore

[Anonymous No.2006123]

>>2006115
>print PEEK
Good luck with that fren

[Anonymous No.2006126]

I printed the meme skull

[Anonymous No.2006128]

>>2005221
shit nozzle
or a minor clog

[Anonymous No.2006134]

>>2006061
>Horrible blobs on first 10 solid layers. What do?
I use klipper with an Ender3 with a Bltouch no less. Post your config and I'll comb through it.
I've gone through the bashing my head on my desk phase with it and I've done just about everything with it. I'll help you out.

[Anonymous No.2006138]

>>2005906
The best metal extruders for the Ender 3 are just metal versions of the plastic one.
The design itself is fine. It's just better off metal.

[Anonymous No.2006143]

>>2006123
Thanks, it should be a challenge but it should be fun. I seem to have more fun working on the printer than than I do printing things. There are some things that need the mechanical properties of higher temp material such as yield strength and temperature resistance that you can only get with those higher temp materials, but it would honestly be cheaper to have someone else print them. This is mostly just for fun.
>>2006122
Not sure if you're cringing about how retarded I am, or if you're proud.

[Anonymous No.2006144]

>>2006143
>Not sure if you're cringing about how retarded I am, or if you're proud.
You imply that those are mutually exclusive.

[Anonymous No.2006147]

>>2006144
True.

[Anonymous No.2006157]

>>2006115
oh, wow. okay, I hope you have renter's insurance, a AMHE, a hardened nozzle, and an enclosure.

[Anonymous No.2006158]

where can I get a good cheap 1kg roll of PLA from a non-chinese company?

[Anonymous No.2006159]

>>2006158
Quite literally the first result on Amazon and listed as Best Seller is Hatchox PLA for $22.99.

[Anonymous No.2006162]

>>2006159
hatchbox is chinese

[Anonymous No.2006166]

>>2006089 Was hoping to increase print speed and try flexible materials.
>>2006134 Sure, thank you anon in advance. https://pastebin.com/SLnC16Je

[Anonymous No.2006167]

>>2006005
Maximum hold hair spray has always worked great for me with PETG on a glass bed. I've never had good luck getting my prints to stick to bare glass.
>>2005985
apply the hair spray thick, misting it on doesn't hold very well. Make sure the bed is hot when you do it.

[Anonymous No.2006170]

>>2006166
>hoping to increase print speed
might work but questionable effort as you can tell already

>try flexible materials
I print flexible TPU parts on my all stock Ender 3 all the time. I don't know who started the rumor that a stock ender style bowden printers can't print flexible filaments. Who ever said that must have had a horribly put together printer

[Anonymous No.2006190]

>>2006076
anyone?

[Anonymous No.2006198]

>>2006076
>>2006190
I mean it's just a really generic question, so you might want to restate your question in a more specific way. Are you meaning specifically PLA, what kind of $/kg do you think is reasonable, what are you looking to do with it? With that broad of a question, you're better served typing "filament" into Amazon and blindly reading reviews.

[Anonymous No.2006201]

>>2006088
nice bong

[Anonymous No.2006208]

Got myself an ender 5 plus a month ago, probably the worst purchase I've ever made. The z axis grinds, clicks and whines, I had to basically throw a tantrum at support after 2 weeks of them leading me on by email, and their mail tracking link is broken, had to search using a third party parcel tracker to find it, and its coming soon, but I'm not even sure what they sent replacements for, since they fucking refuse to tell me even though I've asked repeatedly (and told them that the z axis came bent, with video and picture evidence). If I don't receive a whole brand new z axis at this point I'm just getting a PayPal refund, and if they want their half broken printer back I'll give them the same nightmare of email conversations I got.

[Anonymous No.2006210]

>>2006190
Dasfilament is good, so is prusament

[Anonymous No.2006221]

>>2006158
There's a world shortage of PLA right now apparently so don't get your hopes up too much

[Anonymous No.2006225]

>>2006198
shit sorry i was meaning pla if that helps
and i guess $30 for a kg?
i don’t know what is bare bottom prices and what is worth a shit yet.
>>2006210
thanks anon i’ll look into them

[Anonymous No.2006229]

>>2006221
Neat. Also interesting to learn that the shortage has nothing to do with 3D printing.

[Anonymous No.2006235]

>>2003902
I have it, it's like ender 3 level bullshit but with bigger build volume. I'd say it's worth it, I think I paid like 550 in sale on amazon

[Anonymous No.2006244]

>>2006235
What do you mean by bullshit specifically? Just that it's hanky and requires a bunch of tuning?

[Anonymous No.2006259]

>>2006244
Exactly

[Anonymous No.2006280]

>>2006158
Hatchbox is good like the other guy said, but their quality did tank s bit s few years ago. A good one you're going to want to atleast look into is matterhackers, look at their mhbuild series.

[Anonymous No.2006292]

"""clear""" PLA

[Anonymous No.2006293]

>>2006292
You could probably make some neat reflectors with that.

[Anonymous No.2006294]

>>2006293
It doesn't really reflect much either. It's fine for scattering light behind it though, if you need a diffuser for a lightbox or something.

[Anonymous No.2006298]

>>2006292
there's a ton of air trapped between the layers, the only way to get a "closer to transparent" print is to overextrude the fuck out of everything with 100% infill or infinite walls, then polish the outside

Or just re-cast your part in clear resin

[Anonymous No.2006299]

>>2006293
True reflectors are actually covered with thousands of tiny retroreflectors; They're not just shiny material.

[Anonymous No.2006301]

>>2006292
lmao if you want clear parts you should be using SLA

[Anonymous No.2006303]

>>2006298
>overextrude the fuck out of everything with 100% infill
I thought that would work but I didn't want to start cranking extrusion without a control

[Anonymous No.2006304]

>>2006299
Seems like something you'd be able to do at least in theory, though.

[Anonymous No.2006306]

>>2006304
>>2006299
handful of glitter between each layer

[Anonymous No.2006310]

>>2006303
https://hackaday.com/2018/12/11/true-transparent-parts-from-a-desktop-3d-printer/

[Anonymous No.2006312]

>>2006306
Hope it's a short print.

[Anonymous No.2006315]

>>2006310
big thanks

>>2006312
you could rig up something

[Anonymous No.2006321]

Clone this already, chinamen.

[Anonymous No.2006351]

>>2006292
works fine for this application

[Anonymous No.2006357]

>>2006321
there are several on thingiverse lol

[Anonymous No.2006365]

>>2006099
Is it better? Whenever I google Titan Aero vs BMG people say BMG is better.

[Anonymous No.2006368]

>>2006225
I had good results with duramic pla even when I neglected to dry it, and I just got some pla+ (they mix in a little tpu and it's better) for like $25/kg

[Anonymous No.2006376]

>>2004972
I'd print a bunch of interlocking edge/corner pieces, and fill the sides with thin acrylic or maybe even sheet acetate or paper or card.

[Anonymous No.2006402]

>>2005922
>>2005925
thanks for the recommendations friend

[Anonymous No.2006411]

>>2006166
>https://pastebin.com/SLnC16Je
That is a fuckton of trash that doesn't need to be in the config file by default
>probe
Do you have ABL?

Also the extruder section in the bottom is probably overriding a lot of your slicer's settings. You don't really need any of that if you have it defined in your slicer.

[Anonymous No.2006415]

>>2006166
Really my best suggestion is to simplify this. Go to klipper's config area on github and only take what you need.
Only. Take. What you need.
As a quick hack you could probably just a tidy Ender 3 setup and just copy it.
There's a lot of shit that will fuck with slicers if you add it in.

[Anonymous No.2006421]

>>2006208
>buying creality
>expecting customer support
You only have yourself to blame

[Anonymous No.2006425]

I'm probably not going to get a printer for a little while because of space issues but once I do, would an Ender 3 be a decent starter printer for someone who knows literally fucking nothing?

[Anonymous No.2006427]

>>2006425
I can't speak for everyone, but my first printer was an Ender 3, and I knew nothing, and it hasn't really given me any big problems that I couldn't handle. After spending the first few weeks learning about it, it's been printing fine ever since.
I can't speak to whether there are other printers that might be even easier, though.

If you do go with an Ender 3, my advice is to get the glass bed version, and to throw away the 2GB SD card they include with it and supply your own. Their SD card was shit and would frequently get corrupted and need to be formatted.

[Anonymous No.2006430]

>>2006427
Sounds good. And it doesn't need to constantly be plugged in to a computer, no? You just take the file from a SD card and shove it in and it prints?
Are filaments cheap?

[Anonymous No.2006432]

>>2006430
>And it doesn't need to constantly be plugged in to a computer, no?
It can be, but it doesn't need to be.
I've even heard some anons advise against running a printer directly off a PC, since you're relying on the PC's speed to feed it the commands.
You just slice your model, take the gcode file and put it on the SD card, then put the SD card into the printer and select what you want to print.
>Are filaments cheap?
PLA is generally about $20-$25 for a 1 KG (2.2 lbs) spool, depending on brand. 90% of my prints only use about $1 or less worth of plastic each.
There are all sorts of brands to choose from, but I've personally only tried Sunlu so far. I haven't had any issues with it other than the black filament being more fussy about adhering to the bed than their other colors are.

[Anonymous No.2006434]

>>2006432
>You just slice your model, take the gcode file and put it on the SD card, then put the SD card into the printer and select what you want to print.
Thank fuck, my laptops a toaster.

[Anonymous No.2006436]

>>2006434
>my laptops a toaster
Fair warning, you do still have to slice a model into a gcode file before you can print it, and that DOES use processing power.
My desktop's pretty beefy so slicing generally doesn't take me more than a few seconds, but I don't know if that's typical or not. Be prepared for the possibility that you may need to give it a few minutes to complete that step.

[Anonymous No.2006437]

>>2006436
Lets say I wanted to make a test print with a pre-made model, would I need a model software to get the printer to print or would I just need to file on my sd card with no modifications?

[Anonymous No.2006448]

Where the hell can I find models besides thingamajigverse?

[Anonymous No.2006449]

>>2006421
If those idiots didn't send me a broken peace of shit, I wouldn't have had to.

[Anonymous No.2006451]

>>2004282
If I remember correctly LG is designing 3d printed metal turbine blades with coolant passages inside the blade for their turbine engines. Due to the fact that the blades are curved and kinda thin it would have been impossible to machine the passages. So impossible geometry? Checked. Important use? Checked. Cant be produced useing normal production processes? Checked.

[Anonymous No.2006452]

>>2004539
You are goddam retarded, I have no idea what car that radiator was designed for, but its obvious that it was printed that way to maximize cooling while minimizing size and drag. No shit it wont be used for an average crapbox.

[Anonymous No.2006455]

>>2006437
No the printer isn't smart enough to figure out how to print a 3D model by itself, you need to put the 3D model through a "slicer" to turn it into a gcode that tells the printer exactly how it should move through every step of the process. There are probably cloud-based slicers available now if your laptop is really desperately shit.

[Anonymous No.2006456]

>>2006455
Nah I think my laptop is ok enough for that. So you just run it through a slicer and then put the saved slicer file onto a SD card and put it into the printer?

[Anonymous No.2006461]

>>2005906
Thanks for the heads up bro, I was going to buy one of those!

[Anonymous No.2006535]

>>2006456
The process is
>get model STL file
>feed it to the slicer
>select the specific slicer profile for your printer
>obtain the gcode
>put on sd card and print it
>it will be shit
>go back to the slicer and change some parameters
>print it again
>repeat N times until you have a decent slicer profile

Anyway I advise you to watch some beginner 3d printing videos before actually buying the printer

Also I usually slice stuff on my 2012 thinkpad and it's slow but bearable

[Anonymous No.2006539]

>>2006535
Gimme a good tutorial video.

[Anonymous No.2006546]

How good is the Voron V2.4? Tempted to build it.

[Anonymous No.2006569]

Does anybody have inspo on keeping spools below a printer rather than next to or on top of?

My printer is now shoved in a corner and just barely fits, so there's no way I can keep the spool on the side like I used to be able to, but i have room below the printer underneath the counter so I figure i'd explore that option before resorting to keeping the spool mounted to the top of the frame. Hardly anybody else seems to keep spools below their printer though

[Anonymous No.2006572]

New Thread
>>2006570

[Anonymous No.2006607]

>>2006539
changed my life:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9xtJddDgB4

[Anonymous No.2006609]

>>2006607
X, Y and Z not cos sin and tan ok
Praise cartesian

[Anonymous No.2006887]

>>2006292
please allow 1-3cm differs due to manual measurement, thank you
color may show slight aberration due to different shooting photo light, thank you

[Anonymous No.2007162]

I was watching this Thomas Sanladerer video on assembly of the Ender 3 V2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-y_PWwgSaI
He says that the build plate is too close to the bottom stepper motor and with bed leveling it can hit a thermoresistor. Is this a concern?

[Anonymous No.2007310]

>>2006449
another CR10 owner? my heat block had a crack in it. nothing has worked on it, and they are fucking pieces of shit even for chinamen.

[Anonymous No.2008230]

So, fellas, I just bought a creality ld-002h, what can I expect? Also is there a decent FOSS slicer for MSLA yet? I'd rather not depend on that chink shit chitubox

[Anonymous No.2008379]

>>2008230
Don't do necrobumping. Goto the new thread. >>2006570